Contact Us

1-888-892-5462

  • Mountaineering Fitness & Conditioning
  • Employment Opportunities

Mexico's Volcanoes: Ixtaccihuatl & Orizaba

1-888-892-5462

Climb Details

Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$2500
9 day(s)
Level 3 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability



Upcoming Climbs

December 3, 2010 Jake Beren  
February 19, 2011 Jake Beren  
December 3, 2011    

Mexico's central valleys, along the cultural hearth of the country, are also home to some of the highest summits on the continent. At 18,701' El Pico de Orizaba is the third highest peak in North America, while its neighbor Ixtaccihuatl (17,340') ranks as number seven. Climbing these peaks is an excellent opportunity for mountaineers looking to bring their climbing to new heights; they combine high altitude experience with minimum technical difficulty, all in a relatively short period of time.

We begin our adventures in Mexico City where our hotel is just mere footsteps from the "Zocalo" - the physical and cultural center of the city. Along its edges lie the National Palace, with its enormous Diego Rivera murals, the leaning towers of the Metropolitan Cathedral, and the ruins of the ancient Aztec temples of Tenochtitlan. Later on we have the opportunity to explore the markets of Amecameca, a small town tucked below Ixtaccihuatl, giving us a glimpse of Mexico's colorful everyday life.

From Mexico City we drive east to La Malinche, an extinct volcano whose crumbling core juts above the Puebla Valley. After an acclimatization hike, we stay in cabins near Mexico's high altitude Olympic training camp on La Malinche's flanks.

We then set our sights on Ixtaccihuatl (Ixta), a broad ridged peak that looms above Mexico City and is wrapped in Aztec mythology. The climb begins with a straightforward approach to high camp through alpine meadows. We'll rise early and climb the Ayoloco Glacier until we gain the summit ridge. From there, an airy ridge walk and a few "false summits" lead us to the true summit of Ixta.

As the highest peak in Mexico, El Pico de Orizaba is the crown jewel of the Mexican Volcanoes, and our last summit of the trip. An exciting twelve mile jeep ride takes us to our camp at the Piedra Grande Hut, located at elevations above 14,000'. From the Piedra Grande Hut, we ascend to the toe of the Jampa Glacier where we gain the ice and snow which we follow to the summit.

The best climbing season on the Mexico Volcanoes lasts from November to March, a period of time that coincides with the dry season and brings better snow conditions and more stable weather patterns. Both climbs involve moderately steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, crampon techniques, and ice axe arrest is recommended. A review of these basic mountaineering techniques is incorporated into the itinerary in order to refresh climbers' skills.

Our Mexico Volcanoes Climb is ideal for the mountaineer who is looking to build upon their climbing skills and complete the challenge of high altitude peaks. In addition, it gives climbers a chance to encounter the unique culture of Mexico's central valleys as well take part in the exciting experience of participating in an international climbing trip.

RMI offers two different trips to the Mexico Volcanoes. Our standard trip is 9 days and offers climbers a chance to reach the summit of both Ixta (17,340') and Orizaba (18,701'). Our "abbreviated" Orizaba Express trip is 7 days and is a great alternative for any climber with a time or schedule constraint.

RMI supports the MEX-AMbulance Project.
Click here for more details.

 

 

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

Mexico's Volcanoes Itinerary

Day One: Upon your arrival in Mexico City (7,300 feet), a taxi ride takes you to our hotel.  Our hotel is near the heart of the city in the lively Zócalo (Constitution Square) with its many museums, shops, outdoor cafes, pubs and restaurants.  We have an evening orientation meeting at 7:00 p.m. in the hotel lobby.

Day Two: We meet for breakfast at 7:30 a.m. and plan to leave the hotel at 8:00 a.m. Then we drive in private vehicles to the cabins at the La Malintzi  Resort, located at 10,000' at the base of La Malinche (14,636 feet).  This facility was initially used by Mexico's Olympic Team for training and provides an important role in our team's acclimatization.  We take an acclimatization hike on La Malinche and return to the cabanas for overnight. (B, D)

Day Three: At 8:00 a.m. we depart La Malinche and travel towards Ixtaccihuatl. We have some time to visit a local market in Amecameca and purchase any last minute items for our climb of Ixtaccihuatl.  We then drive to the Altzimoni hut (12,000') where we take  a short acclimatization hike    and overnight in the Altzimoni hut. (B, D)

Day Four: We leave the Altzimoni hut and hike to the toe of the Ayoloco Glacier at 14,750 feet where we establish our High Camp. We spend time today reviewing ice axe arrest, cramponing and rope travel practices.  We set up camp and make preparations for our early alpine start. (B, D)

Day Five: Summit Day on Ixtaccihuatl! Shortly after leaving camp, and depending on the snow and ice conditions, we put on crampons and rope up for the ascent. We gain the summit ridge shortly after sunrise and continue to the summit of Ixtaccihuatl at 17,340 feet. After enjoying the views and a photo session, we descend to High Camp, pack up, and return to La Jolla. We transfer to the colonial city of Puebla and check into our hotel. (B)

Day Six: Our hotel in Puebla is located one block away from the Zocalo (main square) in the heart of the downtown historical district of Puebla and has been on the city map since 1668. The day is free for you to relax and explore the city and the many historic sites. 

Day Seven: Today we drive to Tlachichuca located at the base of Pico de Orizaba. After lunch, four-wheel drive trucks take us to Piedra Grande, our High Camp on Orizaba at 14,000 feet. We spend the night in tents near the hut. (B, L, D)

Day Eight: Summit Day on Pico de Orizaba! With an early alpine start we make our way through a maze of rock and scree. Upon reaching the Jamapa Glacier, we don crampons and ice axes, and rope up for the remainder of the climb. The glaciers on Orizaba are relatively non-technical, with very few crevasses, and the ascent to 18,701 feet is fairly straight-forward. After our summit celebration and photo session, we begin our descent. Upon reaching Piedra Grande, we load our trucks and descend for a hot shower and a home cooked meal. We spend the night in a climbers' hostel in Tlachichuca. (B, D)

Day Nine: After breakfast we depart Tlachichuca and return to Mexico City. It's about a three hour drive, and we should arrive at the airport around 12:00 p.m. Just to be on the safe side, we recommend booking your return flight for 3:00 p.m. or later. Our vehicle will continue back to the Best Western Majestic to drop off anyone who is extending their trip. (B)
 

The following is a list of equipment required for the program.  Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.

Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 120+ liter bag(s) made of tough material with rugged zippers.


Equipment Check Box

BACKPACK: A 70+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A strapping system to hold your skis is a nice feature.


Equipment Check Box

PACK COVER (OPTIONAL): Protects your pack from rain while on the trail.

 
 

Equipment Check Box

DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.


Equipment Check Box

SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 15° F. Either goose down or synthetic.


Equipment Check Box

COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG


Equipment Check Box

SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.


Equipment Check Box

CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.


Equipment Check Box

1 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)


Equipment Check Box

1 LOCKING CARABINER(S)


Equipment Check Box

HELMET: A lightweight climbing helmet.


Equipment Check Box

CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.


Head

Equipment Check Box

WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.


Equipment Check Box

BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.


Equipment Check Box

GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.


Hands Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.


Equipment Check Box

MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.


Equipment Check Box

HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.


Upper Body Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.


Equipment Check Box

LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.


Equipment Check Box

SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.


Equipment Check Box

HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.


Equipment Check Box

INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.


Lower Body Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

1 - 3 UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.


Equipment Check Box

LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.


Equipment Check Box

CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.


Equipment Check Box

HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.


Equipment Check Box

HIKING SHORTS


Feet Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated leather mountaineering boots are the preferred choice for ascents in Mexico. They provide the adequate insulation as well as the rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Plastic mountaineering boots are also adequate. Though their stiffness makes them somewhat less suitable during the approach hikes, they are generally a warmer option for summit day. Bring one pair of chemical foot warmers if you are using the leather mountaineering boots.


Equipment Check Box

HIKING BOOTS: A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain.


Equipment Check Box

LIGHTWEIGHT HIKING SHOES: Great for travel, day hikes, and camp.

Men:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

Women:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

Equipment Check Box

GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.


Equipment Check Box

3 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

LIP PROTECTION


Equipment Check Box

MEALS: See Food Recommendations for suggestions and quantities.


Equipment Check Box

1 - 3 CHEMICAL HAND and TOE WARMERS


Equipment Check Box

2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.


Equipment Check Box

2 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.


Equipment Check Box

TOILET PAPER


Equipment Check Box

EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.


Equipment Check Box

2 AA BATTERIES: For avalanche transceiver. Avalanche transceivers are supplied by RMI.


Equipment Check Box

STUFF SACKS


Equipment Check Box

CAMERA


Travel Clothes

Equipment Check Box

2 CASUAL PANTS


Equipment Check Box

3 - 4 SHIRTS


Toilet Articles

Equipment Check Box

TOOTHBRUSH


Equipment Check Box

TOOTHPASTE


Equipment Check Box

BABY WIPES


Equipment Check Box

HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.


Personal First Aid Kit

Equipment Check Box

BAND-AIDS


Equipment Check Box

ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN


Equipment Check Box

MOLESKIN


Equipment Check Box

ANTACIDS


Equipment Check Box

IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)


Equipment Check Box

PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)


Equipment Check Box

SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE


Personal Medications

Equipment Check Box

ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea


Equipment Check Box

TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain


Equipment Check Box

DIAMOX: Acetazolamide for Altitiude Illness (250 mg. tabs)


Utensils Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

SPOON or SPORK


Travel Documents

Equipment Check Box

PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.


Equipment Check Box

COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.


Equipment Check Box

COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY


Optional Items

Equipment Check Box

READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL


Equipment Check Box

iPOD or MP3 PLAYER


Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: huts, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche transceivers, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.


Pre-Trip Checklist

Equipment Check Box

Purchase travel insurance.


Equipment Check Box

Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.


Equipment Check Box

Purchase airplane tickets.


Equipment Check Box

Reserve rental equipment.


Equipment Check Box

Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!


Qualifications