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Orizaba Express

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Climb Details

Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$2200
7 day(s)
Level 3 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability



Upcoming Climbs

March 5, 2011 Jake Beren  
November 5, 2011    

At 18,701' Mexico's El Pico de Orizaba is North America's third highest mountain. Orizaba's steep pointed summit, blanketed in permanent glaciers, looms above the central valleys of Mexico. The mountain played an important role in the lives of the Aztec and Totonac cultures and later became a landmark for ships searching for the port of Veracruz, despite the fact that the peak lies about seventy-five miles from the coast.

An ascent of Orizaba involves hiking and climbing on moderately steep slopes that necessitate participants to have prior knowledge of rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest. A review of these basic mountaineering techniques is incorporated into the itinerary in order to refresh climbers' skills. Orizaba is the perfect climb for mountaineers eager to build upon their abilities and take their climbing to higher elevations.

Mexico's unique combination of geography and culture gives us the opportunity to experience some of the culture of Mexico's heartland during our climb. With the valley floors lying at 8,000' we begin our acclimatization process as soon as we set foot from the plane in Mexico City. Our hotel is located at the heart of the historic center, overlooking Mexico's most famous public space, the Constitutional Square. Bordering the "Zocalo" are the National Palace, the Metropolitan Cathedral, and the ruins of the ancient Aztec temples of Tenochtitlan - all a stone's throw from our doorstep. The drive from Mexico City towards the mountains takes us past Teotihuacan, one of the most impressive archeological sites in Mexico. Scaling the steep sides of Teotihuacan's ancient pyramids provides us a good warm-up for the peaks that lie ahead of us!

"The Orizaba experience was unbelievable and RMI did everything right to make it a success."
— Brett F.

After leaving the bustling streets and ancient ruins near Mexico City we first head to La Malinche, a 14,640' peak that greatly aids us in our acclimatization. We stay in cabins near Mexico's high altitude Olympic training camp on La Malinche's flanks and scale the mountain's rocky volcanic core. From La Malinche we turn our focus to Orizaba, the crown jewel of Mexico's volcanoes, where we spend three days on the mountain. For our climb of Orizaba we base out of the Reyes Family's compound in Tlachichuca. The Reyes' are the local Orizaba mountaineering experts and their stories and photos heighten the anticipation of our climb!

Our Orizaba Express trip is ideal for the mountaineer who is looking to build upon their climbing skills and complete the challenge of an 18,000 foot mountain. In addition, it gives climbers a chance to see some of Mexico's most treasured cultural sites and take part in the unique experience of participating in an international climbing trip.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

Orizaba Express Equipment List

The following is a list of equipment required for the program.  Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.

Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

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2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 120+ liter bag(s) made of tough material with rugged zippers.


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BACKPACK: A 70+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb.  A separate summit pack is not needed.


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DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.


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SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 15° F. Either goose down or synthetic.


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COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG


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SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

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ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.


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CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.


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1 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)


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1 LOCKING CARABINER(S)


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HELMET: A lightweight climbing helmet.


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CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.


Head

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WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.


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BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.


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BUFF OR BANDANA: A bandana or buff provides good protection from sun and dust.


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GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.


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GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.


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BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment. 

 
 

Hands Guides' Pick

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LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.


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MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.


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HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.


Upper Body Guides' Pick

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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.


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LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.


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SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.


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HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.


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INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.


Lower Body Guides' Pick

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1 - 3 UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.


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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.


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CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.


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HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.


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HIKING SHORTS


Feet Guides' Pick

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MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated leather mountaineering boots are the preferred choice for ascents in Mexico. They provide the adequate insulation as well as the rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Plastic mountaineering boots are also adequate. Though their stiffness makes them somewhat less suitable during the approach hikes, they are generally a warmer option for summit day. Bring one pair of chemical foot warmers if you are using the leather mountaineering boots.


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HIKING BOOTS: A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain.


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LIGHTWEIGHT HIKING SHOES: Great for travel, day hikes, and camp.

Men:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

Women:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

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GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.


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3 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

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LIP PROTECTION


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MEALS: See Food Recommendations for suggestions and quantities.


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1 - 3 CHEMICAL HAND and TOE WARMERS


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2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.


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2 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.


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TOILET PAPER


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EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.


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2 AA BATTERIES: For avalanche transceiver. Avalanche transceivers are supplied by RMI.


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STUFF SACKS


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CAMERA


Travel Clothes

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2 CASUAL PANTS


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3 - 4 SHIRTS


Toilet Articles

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TOOTHBRUSH


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TOOTHPASTE


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BABY WIPES


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HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.


Personal First Aid Kit

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BAND-AIDS


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ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN


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MOLESKIN


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ANTACIDS


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IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)


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PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)


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SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE


Personal Medications

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ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea


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TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain


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DIAMOX: Acetazolamide for Altitiude Illness (250 mg. tabs)


Utensils Guides' Pick

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SPOON or SPORK


Travel Documents

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PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.


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COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.


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COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY


Optional Items

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READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL


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iPOD or MP3 PLAYER


Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: huts, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche transceivers, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.


Pre-Trip Checklist

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Purchase travel insurance.


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Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.


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Purchase airplane tickets.


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Reserve rental equipment.


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Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!


Qualifications