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Ecuador's Volcanoes: Cotopaxi & Cayambe

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Climb Details

Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$2800
11 day(s)
Level 3 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability



Upcoming Climbs

November 30, 2010 Casey Grom  
June 21, 2011  

Ecuador is known for its unparalleled natural beauty and thrilling adventures. It also has the world's greatest concentration of volcanoes, making this the ideal country for a mountaineering adventure. Climbing in Ecuador provides a wide range of challenges, and RMI offers guided climbs on both Cotopaxi (19,348') and Cayambe (18,997'). These spectacular glaciated peaks, located in the Eastern and Western Cordilleras of Ecuador's Andes, give the experience and excitement of high altitude mountaineering.

Our trip begins in the city of Quito, which sits in a high altitude valley known as the "Avenue of the Volcanoes." Located fifteen miles south of the equator and at an altitude of 9,350 feet, Quito has a mild, spring-like climate year round. The temperatures in the valley range between 45 and 70 degrees F. Quito was once a prosperous Indian town and later became the northern capital of the Inca Empire. The city is partly modern, but it has one of the best preserved colonial sections in all of South America. The architecture, art and local culture are just fascinating.

Both Cotopaxi and Cayambe offer superb alpine climbing that is not technically difficult. They are easily accessible as well, being within a day's drive of Quito, and having climber's huts available for sleeping. All participants should be in excellent physical condition and have prior knowledge of rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest. A review of basic mountaineering techniques is included in the itinerary.

While these mountains are climbed throughout the entire year, the best mountain snow pack on both Cotopaxi and Cayambe is often found between October and June. While there can be no guarantees of perfect weather in the mountains, our expeditions take full advantage of the weather and snowpack conditions for both these peaks.

Our standard guided trip is 11 days and offers climbers a chance to reach the summit of both Cayambe (18,997') and Cotopaxi (19,348'). Our "abbreviated" Cotopaxi Express trip is 9 days and is ideal for the climber who is looking to complete the challenge of a 19,000' mountain in a short period of time.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

Ecuador's Volcanoes Equipment List

The following is a list of equipment required for the program.  Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.

Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

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2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 120+ liter bag(s) made of tough material with rugged zippers.


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BACKPACK: A 60+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb.  A separate summit pack is not needed.


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DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.


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SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 15° F. Either goose down or synthetic.


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COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

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ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.


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CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.


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1 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)


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1 LOCKING CARABINER(S)


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HELMET: A lightweight climbing helmet.


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CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.


Head

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WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.


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BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.


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GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.


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GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.


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BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment. 

 
 

Hands Guides' Pick

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LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.


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MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.


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HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.


Upper Body Guides' Pick

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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.


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LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.


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SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.


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HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.


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INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.


Lower Body Guides' Pick

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1 - 3 UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.


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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.


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CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.


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HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.


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HIKING SHORTS


Feet Guides' Pick

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MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather mountaineering boots that have completely rigid soles are also adequate, but they will need to be insulated and may still result in cold feet on summit days.


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HIKING BOOTS: A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain.


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LIGHTWEIGHT HIKING SHOES: Great for travel, day hikes, and camp.

Men:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

Women:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

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GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.


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3 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

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LIP PROTECTION


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MEALS: See Food Recommendations for suggestions and quantities.


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6 - 8 CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS


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2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.


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2 - 3 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.


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TOILET PAPER


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EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.


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2 AA BATTERIES: For avalanche transceiver. Avalanche transceivers are supplied by RMI.


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LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.


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STUFF SACKS


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CAMERA


Travel Clothes

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2 CASUAL PANTS


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4 SHIRTS


Toilet Articles

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TOOTHBRUSH


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TOOTHPASTE


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BABY WIPES


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HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.


Personal First Aid Kit

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BAND-AIDS


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ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN


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MOLESKIN


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ANTACIDS


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IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)


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PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)


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SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE


Personal Medications

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ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea


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TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain


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DIAMOX: Acetazolamide for Altitiude Illness (250 mg. tabs)


Utensils Guides' Pick

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SPOON or SPORK


Travel Documents

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PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.


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COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.


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COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY


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2 EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS


Optional Items

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BABY POWDER


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READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL


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iPOD or MP3 PLAYER


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PEE BOTTLE (PEE FUNNEL FOR WOMEN)


Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: huts, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche transceivers, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.


Pre-Trip Checklist

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Purchase travel insurance.


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Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.


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Purchase airplane tickets.


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Reserve rental equipment.


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Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!


* Single Travelers: If you wish to share accommodations, we will assign you a roommate. If you wish to stay alone, a supplemental fee will be charged for a single room. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.

Risk Management

Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity. 

Climber Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:

  • is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
  • honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.

Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions

In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international. An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.

  • Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
  • Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
  • Ages 18 & above: No restrictions 

Participants on Private Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.

General Policies

RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.

If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.