Mt McKinley Climbing Programs

When your objective is to climb the highest mountain in North America, experience matters. RMI's tenure of conducting guided expeditions on Mt. McKinley dates from 1975 through the present. That's over thirty years of personal knowledge, accumulated on the slopes of Denali, which has been passed down to generations of RMI guides with the purpose of having safe and successful expeditions. Our staff is second to no one in the guiding industry and we are especially proud of our history within Denali National Park & Preserve. The ascent of Denali truly is major league mountaineering, and likely the trip of a lifetime. There is much to learn about becoming an expedition climber, and we are available to assist you in every phase; from answering pre-climb questions to the summit and the return, safely.

McKinley Registration form

Program	Cost	Days	Difficulty
Alaska (May - July)
Mt. McKinley West Buttress This is the classic route up Denali. Heavily glaciated terrain is similar to climbing Mt. Rainier, but significantly higher altitude and length of the route makes this a true expedition experience. An ascent is the trip of a lifetime for most!	$6200	21
Mt. McKinley West-Rib A steeper and more challenging summit route, the Upper West Rib is technically more difficult than the West Buttress. The Upper West Rib is approached from Genet Basin (14,200') with high camp estalished at approximately16,000'. For the qualified applicant a longer more demanding summit day offers high adventure in Alaska!	$7600	21
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar Our ten-day comprehensive seminar serves as the perfect training experience prior to climbing Denali and other great peaks. It is a comprehensive introduction to mountaineering conducted in one of the most spectacular alpine settings in the world! RMI sets the standard in guiding excellence by operating this program at a 3 to 1 climber to guide ratio.	$2400	10
West Buttress - Private/Custom Climbs World-renowned mountain guide Dave Hahn, is leading a Custom expedition beginning June 22, 2010. If climbing the highest mountain in North America is on your to-do list, consider joining Dave on this once-in-a-lifetime adventure! Please contact our office for additional information.	$7600	21

Between 2003 and 2006, per the National Park Service's Mountaineering Statistics, the overall climber success rate for the West Buttress Route was 56%. This is the total number of all climbers who reached the summit, divided by the total number of all climbers attempting the route, including both guided and non-guided climbers. During the same time period, RMI had an overall client success rate of 71%.

On average, we have 11 expeditions each season. And in the last four years, we have offered a total of 43 trips, with 35 of these expeditions successfully reaching the summit, an 85% success rate. The average success rate for all expeditions, both guided and non-guided for the same time period, is 54%. Below is the breakdown of RMI McKinley Expeditions per year.

2009: 100%. 7 Expeditions / 7 Summits
2008: 92%. 13 Expeditions / 12 Summits
2007: 45%. 11 Expeditions / 5 Summits
2006: 92%. 12 Expeditions / 11 Summits
2005: 91%: 11 Expeditions / 10 Summits
2004: 62%. 13 Expeditions / 8 Summits
2003: 100%. 10 Expeditions / 10 Summits

Climbing Denali is not something you contemplate on a whim. Indeed, part of the enjoyment is learning the necessary skills, gaining self confidence, readying personal equipment, and conditioning to be in the best shape of your life. To achieve a superior team in Alaska, RMI employs a screening process with all Denali applicants. This personal attention to each individual applicant helps to assure we have strong, compatible teams on the mountain - which is a benefit to everyone involved. Expedition Skills Seminar training needs to be completed prior to Denali registration, as this program will give you a realistic appraisal of what to expect on a climb of this nature. Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park & Preserve, and has organized over 250 expeditions to Mt McKinley since 1975.

The climbing season on Mt. McKinley extends from late-April throughout the months of May, June and July. In early season, climbers normally experience excellent snow and route conditions, and the mountain is relatively uncrowded. June is perceived as the best compromise between the colder temperatures in spring and warmer conditions of summer. July is considered late season in Alaska, but climbing conditions are great and, as a bonus, there are fewer parties on the route.

There is no environment better than Mt. Rainier for gaining the confidence and required technical skill for the climb of Mt. McKinley. Rainier's combination of weather, altitude and terrain closely resemble the environment of Alaska, and presents limitless training possibilities. Whether you require technical training, additional glacier climbing experience or perhaps just a refresher, an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar is the proper background for joining a guided expedition to Mt. McKinley. There is simply no substitute for the personal experience you gain by training at high altitude on heavily glaciated terrain. Please feel free to contact our office and speak with a guide to help you determine which Expedition Skills Seminar is best suited for you.