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Alaska Mountaineering Seminar
Equipment List The following is a list of equipment required for the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and always hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford or online. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2008 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below. PACK & BAG [ ] BACKPACK: A 6,000+ cubic inch pack is
the recommended size for this climb. Loads carried on Denali can be very
cumbersome; bring plenty of strapping cord and bungee cords for lashing. [ ] SLEEPING BAG:
A contemporary dryloft down bag rated to 0 degrees. It should provide ample room for movement, and it should be carried in a compression stuff sack. Insulation choices are goose down or synthetic. Most guides prefer down, because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is superb, but not mandatory. If a bag gets damp from condensation in a tent, it can be dried outside in camp. [ ] COMPRESSION STUFF SACK:
A slightly oversized compression stuff sack can hold far more
than just a sleeping bag when push comes to stuff.
[ ]
SLEEPING
PADS: You will need a ¾-length or full-length inflatable pad, as well
as a full-length closed cell foam pad. The additional pad is
placed on top of the inflatable. No matter the degree a sleeping
bag is rated, it will only be as good as the pad system it rests
on. TECHNICAL GEAR [ ] AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER:
A climb in the Alaska Range involves travel in avalanche terrain. A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well. [ ] HELMET: We recommend a lightweight climbing
helmet. [ ] CLIMBING HARNESS: We recommend a comfortable,
adjustable climbing harness. [ ] ICE AXE:
The length of your axe
depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to
5’8”, use a 65 cm. axe; 5’8” to 6’2”, use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm.
axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of
the axe should still be a few inches above the ground. [ ] CRAMPONS: The 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. If you bring your own crampons, bring the appropriate repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools. [ ] TREKKING POLES:
We recommend a lightweight, collapsible pair of trekking poles. [ ] PERLON ROPE: Twenty-four feet of 6 mm perlon accessory cord, and fifteen feet of 7 mm, for use as prussic slings and cordelettes in crevasse rescue. [ ] 7 CARABINERS: Seven carabiners are required for
the climb; at least two should be locking and larger. HEAD [ ] WARM HAT: A wool or synthetic hat. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet. [ ] BALACLAVA / NECK GAITER: Highly recommended for cold and windy days. [ ] BANDANA and a BASEBALL CAP: A lightweight
ball cap with bandana or a sun hat works very well. [ ] GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed
sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses is required. [ ] GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles are
required for adverse weather. HANDS A good glove / mitten combination is important because of the variety of weather conditions experienced throughout your climb. Below are some recommendations. Your glove combination should include three separate layers that work well together. [ ] LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: One pair of fleece or wool gloves. [ ]
MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE: One pair of wind/water resistant ski gloves. [ ]
HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE or MITTEN: One pair of wind/water resistant, insulated
gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove. UPPER BODY [ ] BASE LAYER: One long-sleeve, medium weight top will be used as your base layer. Light colored tops are ideal, since dark colors absorb heat from the sun, and neck zippers will provide extra ventilation. [ ] SUN SHIRT: A synthetic, lightweight, long-sleeved, and loose-fitting shirt for use on hot days. A shirt with a SPF (sun protection factor) is recommended. [ ] INSULATING LAYERS: A variety of insulating layers work well on McKinley. Your choice of garment (fleece or soft-shell) and the number of garments (two or three) should be based on how well you do in the cold. Generally speaking, we recommend two layers that work in combination with each other. [ ] SHELL JACKET: You will need a jacket made of rain/wind resistant material with an attached hood. [ ] INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes
of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka
must have an insulated hood. LOWER BODY [ ] BRIEFS:
Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain, recommend 2-3 pair. [ ] BASE LAYER:
One pair light or medium weight bottoms will be used as your base layer. [ ] INSULATING LAYER:
One pair of softshell or windstopper fleece pants is required. [ ] SHELL PANT:
A pant made of rain/wind resistant material will be needed for the climb. Full-length side zippers are a great option, facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons. FEET [ ] MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS:
Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice for ascents in the Alaska Range. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Some leather boots that have Vibram soles and full shanks are also adequate, but they will need to be a stiffer design and might still result in cold feet on summit days. [ ] GAITERS:
A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots, will be needed. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing. [ ] SOCKS:
Four pair, either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction. [ ] SNOWSHOES:
Select a medium-length model of snowshoe, 30” model works well for most climbers. Team members are more often ‘drafting’ as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a long pair. The ‘shoes should have an attached claw or crampon for better purchase. Miles of roped glacier travel will be logged wearing snowshoes. It is recommended to spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS [ ] PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT: keep it light but include at least the
following items: [ ] TOILET ARTICLES: [ ] PEE BOTTLE [ ] SLEEPING MASK and EAR PLUGS for sleeping [ ] CAMERA [ ] WATCH with alarm [ ] OTHER PERSONAL ITEMS: Paperback, FM radio (MP3 or minidisk player), or journal. Cell phones generally
do not work well below 14,000'. [ ] WEBBING / CORD / ROPE:
Bring along the following material:
[ ] RESCUE PULLEY/MECHANICAL ASCENDER: a small, lightweight rescue pulley and a single mechanical ascender are optional items. [X] HEADLAMP IS
NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS TRIP PROVIDED EQUIPMENT RMI uses Mountain Hardwear Trango III & Trango IV tents on the seminar. Cook stoves are MSR XGK. Climbing ropes are Mammut 9.5 mm. Snow caves and/or igloos may be constructed at camps along the route; ice saws and shovels are provided. The seminar will carry radios, cell phone, probe poles, repair kit, and medical kit. Each member will have a sled for use during the seminar. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain. GENERAL PACKING INFORMATION
PRE-TRIP CHECKLIST [ ] Purchase trip insurance [ ] Return the Registration Packet to the RMI Office [ ] Reserve hotel accommodations in Talkeetna for two nights at the beginning of the trip and one night at the end of your program. [ ] Reserve rental equipment [ ] Arrange transportation to and from the airport [ ] Be in the best shape of my life! |
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1-888-892-5462 • info@rmiguides.com |
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