Alaska Mountaineering Seminar

Day 1: Travel

4:00 p.m.

Meet the guides at Anchorage International Airport (Domestic Terminal), carousel 1 in Alaska Airlines baggage claim.

Shuttle transportation to Talkeetna is arranged by RMI (please see Travel Details). The shuttle leaves at 4:30 p.m. and it is a three hour drive to Talkeetna. The group will stop at a grocery store in Wasilla, for the opportunity to purchase any fresh food you'd like to bring on the mountain (cheese, salami, etc). The team will arrive in Talkeetna at approximately 9:00 p.m. Participants need overnight accommodations for that night and the following night. Guides, and most RMI climbers, stay at the Talkeetna Motel (please see Travel Details).

Day 2: Pre-Trip Preparation and Fly On

7:00 a.m.

Meet at The Roadhouse Restaurant, Talkeetna, AK

There are a number of important items to accomplish in Talkeetna. After a breakfast meeting we begin our training at the K-2 Aviation hanger. The team will go through extensive personal equipment checks. Final recommendations and suggestions concerning gear will be made at that time. The team will plan meals and ready group food and equipment for the glacier flight.

After lunch we will meet at K-2 Aviation and begin shuttling members into the Kahiltna Base Camp, weather permitting. This spectacular scenic flight requires approximately 45 minutes, one way. Once at Kahiltna Base Camp we continue the training by learning camp site selection and how to build a mountain camp and kitchen.

Day 3 - 10: The Expedition Seminar

The following seminar itinerary is approximate and depends on such considerations as weather, route conditions and strength of the party. Eight man-days of food and fuel are carried on the mountain. There are emergency food rations at Base Camp, in case weather prevents the group from flying off. It is best to purchase an airline ticket booked to depart Anchorage one week after the seminar's end date. When you return to Anchorage, you can then reschedule your flight.

DAY 3:We begin building the foundational skills that allow travel and access to more varied terrain. Skills covered on this day include: knots, harness, carabiner and avalanche transceiver use., proper use of the ice axe for balance and self and team arrest, cramponing on moderate terrain, and the basics of roped glacier travel. Evening discussions will take place throughout the seminar and cover a variety of mountaineering topics such as: mountain medicine and wellness, weather, route finding and navigation, expeditionary climbing techniques, alpine climbing techniques, self care and the art of climbing efficiently.

DAY 4: We spend the morning learning how to construct a variety of snow and ice anchors for use in belaying, rappelling, and crevasse rescue. In the afternoon, we hone our glacier travel and route finding skills as we make our way to a group of seracs (ice towers) to practice front pointing and the use of two ice axes on steeper terrain.

DAY 5: Our first summit day. A moderate climbing objective will be picked by the guides for the first summit attempt of the trip. Our goal is to apply the techniques we have learned up to this point, have an adventurous and safe climb, and be back in camp by early evening.

DAY 6:  Our focus today is on expedition skills such as fixed rope travel, sled rigging and crevasse rescue. During our crevasse rescue practice we learn self rescue, how to extricate ourselves from a crevasse if we have fallen in, and companion rescue, how we extricate a team member. These are essential skills for an ascent of a large expeditionary peak like Denali.

DAY 7: Today we are introduced to lead climbing including belaying, anchors and rappelling techniques on moderate and steep terrain in a mock lead setting. This is a fun day where we learn the skills necessary to set up top ropes and lead moderate ice climbs.

DAY 8: The goal of our second climbing objective is to safely apply all of the skills we have learned during our course. This is a two-day summit bid. If conditions allow the team, will move to a high camp on day 7. This will entail breaking camp, packing and pulling sleds, and re-pitching camp at a high point that will allow for a manageable summit bid. We then bed down early for the next day's climb.

DAY 9: The high point of the trip! This will be an exciting, all-day climb. Standing on the summit we are able to see the surrounding peaks of Mt. McKinley, Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter. We descend to our high camp and, energy permitting, all the way back to base camp.

DAY 10: Today can be used for additional training or for an extra summit attempt. We fly from the Kahiltna Base Camp to Talkeetna for a celebratory dinner.

The following is a list of required equipment. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.

PACK & BAG

TECHNICAL GEAR

HEAD

HANDS

UPPER BODY

LOWER BODY

FEET

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

OPTIONAL ITEMS

PROVIDED EQUIPMENT

PRE-TRIP CHECKLIST

On the expedition you will need lunch snacks for eight days. Lunch items should weigh about 7+ lbs. Breakfasts and dinners are provided by RMI while on the mountain.

Special Dietary Needs: Expedition food is packed well in advance, so please let us know by March 1^st if you have any dietary restrictions.

Breakfasts and Dinners

Eight man-days of food are carried on the mountain, which can be stretched in the event of bad weather. Additionally, a cache of emergency food is left at Kahiltna Base Camp.

The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried (Mountain House or Richmoor Natural High), and packaged main-course items (Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, Macaroni & Cheese). There is also a supplement (mashed potatoes, rice, stuffing), cup-o-soup and various hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider), and dessert. Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.

Breakfasts consist of fresh food (bagels, cream cheese), bacon and eggs, instant oatmeal, instant grits, cold cereal (granola), breakfast bars, and hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider).

Properly taking care of oneself on the expedition begins with eating and drinking adequate amounts. Dehydration is always a concern; inadequate fluid intake can contribute to frostbite and other medical problems. It is recommended to drink 4-5 liters per day at altitude.

Finally, the question of vitamins always comes up. If vitamins are a part of your regular diet, then we recommend bringing those vitamins on the mountain.

Lunch/Snacks

The importance of bringing lunch foods that you genuinely enjoy cannot be overstated. Good food is the key to maintaining health and happiness on long expeditions. It is necessary to have foods that stimulate the whole palate in order to combat loss of appetite at altitude. Cover the whole range of taste buds from sweet to sour to salty. Inevitably you will grow tired or even sick of certain types of foods. Thus, you need to have a wide variety of foods to have a larger "rotation" of food options.

In addition to supplying your body with nourishment, food is perhaps the best means for maintaining a positive mental attitude on long expeditions. The mental aspect of mountaineering is possibly the greatest challenge we face as climbers. Anybody can train physically, given enough time, but it is more difficult to prepare for the mental ordeal of waiting for the weather to clear. On poor weather days you will find that having an interesting variety of goodies in your food bag may be the difference between a mental annoyance and mental torture. Besides keeping yourself mentally healthy, a diverse food supply earns you fast friends as you barter with tent mates for savory snacks.

Take care while shopping for your lunch snacks. Don't wait for the last minute. Make a list in advance, and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer a large variety of gourmet and specialty foods, as well as your old, stand-by favorites. Keep in mind that, for the most part, McKinley stays cold enough to preserve perishable food for weeks.

Personal lunch suggestions: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy variety (sweet, sour), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), drink mix (Kool Aid, Crystal Light). Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna, but you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

Sample of a guide's personal lunch/supplement food from a 2008 Mt. McKinley Expedition:
* 25 bars: mix of Cliff, Luna, and others
* 2 lbs of almond, dried cranberries and chocolate chip mix
* 2 packages of bagels
* 2 packages of whole wheat tortillas
* 2 blocks of cheese - pepper jack & sharp cheddar
* 1 Hickory Farms summer sausage
* 1 pepperoni stick
* 1 package Little Smokies
* 2 packs of smoked salmon
* 1 pack of turkey jerky
* 2 cans each: clams, oysters
* 1 container of peanut butter & jelly mix
* 2 packages of crackers (Chicken in a Biscuit & Wheat Thins)
* 2 cans of potato chips (Pringles)
* 2 lbs + GORP mix
* 1 box of Ginger Snaps
* 1 box of graham crackers
* 1 container of hummus
* 1 bag of carrots
* 1 package of dried mangos
* 1 bag of chocolate covered espresso beans & dried blueberries
* 25 mixed candies (lifesavers, jolly ranchers, gummy worms, sweet tarts, toffee, mints)
* 1 small container of sweet mustard
* Gatorade mix & small travel size Crystal Light packets

Previous climbing experience is not required for participation on the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar. This is an entry level instructional program designed to teach the fundamentals of mountaineering. A high level of physical fitness is required.

Mountaineering is a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. In training, we want to mirror, as best we can, the physical activities that we will be performing in the mountains. Your primary focus should be gaining the necessary strength and stamina needed to go up and down steep slopes with a backpack.

It is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape. Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.

• Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
• Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
• Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
• Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
• There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
• Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!

 

This sounds like a lot of work... and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.

For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.

For a guide's perspective on fitness, please click here.

Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure traveler's across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.

Air Travel

RMI guides arrive in Anchorage in the afternoon of Day 1. The guides and climbers form up at 4:00 p.m., Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1. When arranging transportation, if your flight cannot arrive in Alaska before 3:30 p.m. it will be necessary to arrive a day earlier, and go to the airport to meet the team.

Airfare should be booked to depart Anchorage one week after the programs end date. When you return to Anchorage, you can reschedule your return flight at the ticket counter or over the phone. Depending on the airline, a change of date penalty is usually charged at this time. We have found scheduling a future date usually works better than an open-ended ticket or missing an early return date.

The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.

Travel Insurance

We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program.

For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree

Personal Medical Insurance

We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.

Getting to Talkeetna

Talkeetna, a three-hour drive from Anchorage, is our starting point for the expedition. We will arrange a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna at 4:30 pm  on the day your program begins. If you wish to join this transfer, please arrive in Anchorage no later than 3:30 p.m. The shuttle price is $160 per person round-trip and is payable directly to Denali Overland Transport Co. at boarding time, personal check or cash only. We will stop at a grocery store in Wasilla to pick up any last minute items and perishable food for personal lunches. Climbers should buy a pizza or deli item for dinner while driving that evening. The team will arrive in Talkeetna at approximately 9:00 p.m.

If you are traveling to Talkeetna on your own, and plan to meet the group for breakfast on the scheduled start date, please let RMI know in advance that you will not require transportation to Talkeetna.

Lodging

Our programs usually require a total of two nights in Talkeetna: one night before flying on to the glacier, and one night after you return from the mountain. Weather and flying conditions can change the number of days spent in Talkeetna. Advanced reservations for lodging are recommended, and we suggest reserving rooms three months prior to your expedition. There are several different options for lodging in Talkeetna with something to fit every comfort level. The Talkeetna Motel is where all of our guides stay while in town. Their phone is (907) 733-2323.  In the event bad weather prevents us flying to the mountain on schedule, you should have extra money for meals and lodging in Talkeetna.

Weather

Mt. McKinley's weather forecast is updated through the National Weather Service

Tipping

While tipping is by no means required, our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment.

Resources

Bass, D., Wells, F., Ridgeway, R.  Seven Summits 1986

Beckey, Fred  Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 1993

Bezruhka, Stephen  Altitude Illness - Prevention & Treatment 2001

Cole, Terence  The Sourdough Expedition: Stories of the Pioneer Alaskans Who Climbed Mount McKinley in  l910 1985

Davidson, Art  Minus 148: The Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley 1986

Houston, Charles  Going Higher: The Story of Man and Altitude 1987

Mason, Gene  Minus Three 1970

Michener, James A.  Alaska 1988

Moore, Terris   Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs 1981

Randall, Francis  Denali Diary: Letters from McKinley 1987

Selters, Andy  Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue 1990

Sherwonit, Bill  To The Top of Denali 1990

 Sherwonit, Bill  Denali: The Complete Guide 2002

Snyder, Howard  The Hall of the Mountain King 1973

 Stuck, Hudson  The Ascent of Denali 1914

 Washburn, B., Roberts, D.  Mount McKinley - The Conquest of Denali 1991

 Waterman, Jon  High Alaska 1989

 Waterman, Jon  Surviving Denali: Accidents 1910 - 1990

Payments

A deposit of $750 per person is required to secure your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program. We will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation. Please note that credit cards are not accepted for balance payment; check or wire transfer only.

We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree

Cancellations

Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire trip the following fees will apply. A fee of $350 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 90 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 90 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy. Registration monies cannot be carried forward to future years.

Change of Date

Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 60 days prior to your departure date. A $200 fee will be charged per person for all date changes made more than 60 days prior to the program.

Land Cost

The current fee includes:

• RMI Leadership
• Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain
• Group equipment (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, sleds, etc.)
• Bush pilot service between Talkeetna and base camp*

*If you depart the trip early you may be subject to additional bush pilot fees.

The fee does not include:

• Airfare to Alaska
• Ground transportation between Anchorage and Talkeetna (however, this will be arranged by RMI)
• Accommodations and meals while not on the mountain
• Lunch during the climb
• Customary guide gratuities

Risk Management

RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety. Managing risk is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

Climber Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:

• is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
• honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.

General Policies

Any Participant under the age of 18 must be accompanied on the trip by a parent or legal guardian and both the Participant and parent or legal guardian must sign all forms.  The minimum age is 16.

RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.

If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.