MCKINLEY DISPATCHES

McKinley Archived Dispatches - Click Here

***Communication with teams on the lower mountain (between base camp and 14,000’) may be sporadic and affect our ability to post expedition progress reports. This is due in part to mountainous terrain, as the route ascends glacial canyons, traverses beneath rock walls, and rounds corners. Weather too may adversely affect the ability of climbers to communicate with other RMI parties on the mountain. Once a team reaches the 14,000’ level, where line-of-sight radio/telephone communication is possible, we can expect more regular dispatches to be posted on our website.  An expedition may take seven days or more before reaching that elevation.

John Lucia Expedition: April 30th, 2008

 

Olivia Cussen, May 14th Mount McKinley Expedition

May 16, 2008 (12:44 p.m. PT):
Our team will fly on the mountain after John Race's team. The weather is clear up high and we look forward to fly on the mountain.

May 14, 2008:
Hi from Talkeetna. Everyone arrived safely and are excited to start the expedition. We are at the hangar packing in anticipation of flying on the mountain tomorrow.

May 13, 2008:
Team to meet in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna.


John Race, May 14th Mount McKinley Custom Expedition

May 16, 2008 (12:44 p.m. PT relay from Olivia Cussen):
Our team will fly on the mountain starting in about 15 minutes.

May 14, 2008: (Relay from Olivia Cussen)
Everyone arrived safely and are excited to start the expedition. We are at the hangar packing in anticipation of flying on the mountain tomorrow.

May 13, 2008:
Team to meet in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna.


Mike Walter, May 7th Mount McKinley Expedition

May 16, 2008: (2:45 p.m. PT from John Lucia)
Mike and his time are hoping to make a carry today to 14,000' and return to 11,000'. The weather at their elevation doesn't appear to be very clear. So it's possibly they are taking a rest day and may carry tomorrow. We will talk with them via radio this evening and keep you posted.

May 15, 2008: (12:58 p.m. PT from John Lucia)
Mike and his team made it to 11,000' yesterday. The team is doing well and glad to be moving up the mountain.

May 14, 2008: (1:12 a.m. PT voicemail from John Lucia)
I talked to Mike Walter tonight. He has been stuck at 9,600' for the last three days. Will try to move to 11,000' tomorrow.

May 10, 2008: (9:57 p.m. PT voicemail from John Lucia)
I talked to Mike Walter and have an update. He moved to 9,800' and is plugging along strong. Plans to move to 11,000' tomorrow.

May 9, 2008: (9:23 p.m. PT voicemail from John Lucia)
Hey guys. This is John. I just talked to Mike Walter and have an update on him. With all of the squirrelly weather on Thursday, they ended up getting into Basecamp late. They stayed there last night and today moved up to the base of Ski Hill (about 8,000'). They will spend the night and move up to around 9,000' tomorrow if all goes well. They are all doing well.

May 7, 2008:
We have all arrived safe and sound and are spending a busy day in Talkeetna. After our breakfast get-together we attended the National Park Service ‘climber orientation’ then wandered to the airplane hangar at Hudson Air Service where our equipment is stored. We’re readying our personal climbing gear, pitching tents, running stoves, and flagging wands (route markers). Tonight we’ll have a dinner meeting. The group looks fit and everyone is anxious to begin the ascent, hopefully tomorrow. The weather is beautiful today and we hope to fly on as scheduled Thursday.

May 6, 2008:
Team to meet in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna.



John Lucia, April 30th Mount McKinley Expedition

May 16, 2008 (2:45 p.m. PT):
Hello, this is John checking in from Mount McKinley. We started our summit attempt today but turned back just below Denali Pass due to cold temperatures and high winds. We are now back our 17,000' camp and we will stay here tonight and see if the weather changes. If it looks good tomorrow we may make another attempt. We will check in again tomorrow.

May 15, 2008 (12:58 p.m. PT):
The weather permitted today... just a little bit late. We are enjoying the sun today and if the weather stays good, we'll go for the summit in the morning. The team is feeling strong and looking forward to a summit bid tomorrow.

May 14, 2008 :
Our team is at 17,000’ high camp. The weather is still unsettled, but hopefully we’ll get a break. It was a long, hard, 9 hour push from 14,000’ up to here. We are digging snow blocks and building walls around our tent camp today (to block the wind). Our plan is to go for the summit as soon as weather permits. Stay tuned…

May 12, 2008 (voicemail 5:51 p.m. PT):
Hi this is John, checking in from Mt. McKinley. We’ve spent the day at 14,000’ watching it snow. If the weather forecast is correct we may be watching it for a while longer. Everyone is doing great and we will check in again soon.

May 11, 2008 (12:05 p.m. PT):
We have decided to stay at 14,000'. We have nice weather right now but the weather forecast is for a possible storm starting this afternoon. We'll check in as soon as we can to let you know if we will be here at 14,000' for a while waiting out the storm.

May 10, 2008 (9:59 p.m. PT voicemail):
Hey guys. This is John. It is Saturday and what we did today was we carried a load of food and fuel that could last us a good six days up high. We carried that to about 16,200'. The group is pretty excited about that so we are looking at maybe moving to 17,000' tomorrow if the weather goes well. The forecast is a little squirrelly but from what we can see here it sure looks nice so if things stay nice, we'll probably move up. Hopefully tomorrow we'll call you from 17,000'. We'll see how that goes. All right, bye.

May 9, 2008 (12:36 p.m.):
Hey, this is John. Today we had a rest day at camp and went over some skills- running belays, axe arrest and fixed line travel. Everyone is strong and enjoying the nice weather. Will check in tomorrow after we do a carry to 16,200'. Bye for now.

May 8, 2008 (voicemail 9:39 p.m.):

Click arrow to listen to John's Voicemail:

Hey guys this is John just giving you an update it's Thursday night. Today we ran down from 14,000 and grabbed the cache we had down at 13,500' and then we just came back and hung around camp. I think we are going to rest everybody tomorrow and then maybe Saturday make another push to carry things to 16,200' or better. Weather has been pretty good, it's been really nice and relatively warm for this time of year, so that is good. Everybody is hanging in there. We will give you a call tomorrow on our rest day and tell you our plans. All right, bye.

May 7, 2008 (voicemail 9:53 p.m.): Team member Jeff Karpel transmitted this dispatch report:

Click arrow to listen to Jeff's Voicemail:

Hello this is Jeff Karpel from Mount McKinley calling in just to report that we made it 14,000' camp today. It's very cold up here. And, we have with us Mark, Geir and Kurt which is the four of us that are still hoofing it. Tomorrow we anticipate going back down to 13,000' to pick up the cache that we left down there yesterday. And then come back up here, and then we'll probably rest for a day and then move up to 17,000'. We'll move a cache up to between 16 and 17,000'. This is much more difficult than I had imagined. So, I want to say hello to certainly Liz and the kids and I look very forward to being back home and in Missouri hiking in the Ozarks. And, I want to say hello to all my friends who supported me in doing this as well. And I can't wait to be partying with you again soon. Thank you very much, take care see, you guys later. Bye.

May 5, 2008 (voicemail 9:57 p.m.): Team member Kurt Hunter transmitted this dispatch report:

This is Kurt Hunter at 8:50P Alaska Daylight Time reporting from our 11,000’ camp on Mt McKinley.  Today we retrieved our cache which was buried at 9,000’ and returned to camp at 11,000’.  The weather was not cooperative, but we managed.  It was generally stormy, with blowing snow and wind.  It was also quite cold, but movement helped remedy the chill.  No matter - we wouldn’t want to use up the good weather while we’re low on the mountain; we’ll save the nice weather for high camp and summit day!  Tomorrow’s plan is to carry a load of supplies through Windy Corner (13,200’) and cache near the 14,000’ level.  We’ll evaluate the weather and report our progress at a later time.  We’re all doing well and enjoying our time on Denali.  Finally, I want to send my love to Leslie, Stuart, Seth, and all family and friends.

May 4, 2008: (voicemail 5:34 p.m. PT)

Click arrow to listen to John's Voicemail:

Hey guys this is John just calling with an update it is Sunday afternoon. Today we just rested here at 11,000' pretty good, warm, high overcast weather. Yesterday we moved from 9 up here to 11 and it was snowy and windy and kind of white. But everybody did well. Tomorrow our plan is to run down and grab a cache that we left behind at 9,000' and hopefully the weather holds so we can do that. So, yeah, all is well here and I guess we'll check in again tomorrow after our carry. All right, talk to you later.

May 2, 2008: (voicemail 9:57 p.m.)
Our group moved to 9,000' today. We are currently sitting and watching it snow but we had a good day for travel with good weather and warm temperatures. Tomorrow we will either move up to the 11,000' camp or make a carry to 11,000'. We will see how everyone is feeling and how the weather is. We will check in again soon.

May 2, 2008:
RMI Senior Guide John Lucia checked in at 10:00A this morning. The group was able to fly onto the mountain yesterday, as scheduled. After establishing Base Camp they decided to head out onto the route and begin their ascent. The rope teams moved down-glacier from the 7,300’ landing site on the SE Fork Kahiltna Glacier to approximately 6,400’ on the main Kahiltna, where the route turns north. They ascended to approximately 7,400’ where Camp I was established, and spent the night. This morning they reported cloudy skies and great climbing conditions, typical for May. The plan for today is to move everything up and establish Camp ll somewhere around the 8,700’ level. Everyone in the group is doing well.

April 30, 2008:
The team has all arrived in Talkeetna. They met with the Park Service today and are busy packing in anticipation of flying on the mountain, which could be as early as tomorrow.

April 29, 2008 :
Team to meet in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna.

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