Mountaineering is considered a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. Physical conditioning is the single most important way you can help to ensure a safe and successful expedition, and it is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape.

The evaluation of your physical conditioning is ongoing during all phases of the program and will determine your degree of participation and success. Proper diet, adequate sleep, and increasing amounts of physical conditioning will be of personal benefit, and therefore, a benefit to your entire team. Get in tune with your body; learn what it can do, and what your limits are. Start your exercise regimen early. Be well rested prior to your departure date. It is important to be ready to climb when the trip starts, and not have to catch up on sleep.

Training for mountaineering must be as specific as possible. Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.

• Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.

• Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Keep your heart rate at a reasonably high level, but do not overdo it. Exercise for an hour or more per session. Three to four long training sessions are more beneficial than short daily workouts.

• Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.

• There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. If there are no hills nearby, you can use stadium steps, stairs in buildings, or step machines in athletic clubs.

• Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack once a week, or at least every two weeks. Begin your training program with a 20 or 25 pound pack and work up gradually to 60+ pounds. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 15 minute break after each segment.

• Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!

This sounds like a lot of work… and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. However, being physically prepared when you begin your expedition will substantially increase your chances of standing on the summit and enhance your enjoyment of the climb. Remember, you cannot over train for this trip.

For a guide's perspective on fitness, please click here.

For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.

Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize. The key to climbing Mt. McKinley is proper acclimatization. The adage, “Climb high and sleep low”, is the way we climb, and it is for very good reason. Moving slowly up the mountain, following a calculated ascent profile, allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude. In addition to a proper rate of ascent, your performance is often related to how well an individual has taken care of himself/herself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to arrival at High Camp. Proper hydration, nutrition, and warmth must be maintained on a daily basis throughout the expedition. Anyone can experience a “bad day”, but what is important is to keep a Positive Mental Attitude.

The prophylactic use of Diamox is not generally recommended by RMI, but this is a personal choice. Please consult your physician if you wish to add this medication to your first aid kit. Used as a sleeping aid for your first night at high camp, it can be quite beneficial. Or if someone is having trouble acclimating, it may help that person remain on the mountain. Our guides cannot arbitrarily dispense this drug, and consequently, the need for having your own personal supply.