This expedition truly is a major undertaking. The first few days, the focus will be learning the expedition routines of glacier travel, snow camping, and working at becoming a team. Make a conscious effort to take things one-step at a time, literally. Keep a positive mental attitude (PMA), and allow time to mentally acclimate – you are gradually becoming an expedition climber!

When climbing is done for the day, a campsite is selected and probed for crevasses. First, the site must be leveled, and tents pitched and anchored. Snow blocks are quarried and walls built to thwart the wind in case of a storm. A group kitchen is dug and cook tent erected. A designated latrine is established. Melting snow is an endless chore in camp, accomplished in the mornings and late into the evenings. All cooking and melting is done outside – never in a tent. It is important for the group to work together when establishing camps. As an integral part of the team, a willingness to pitch in is greatly appreciated.

The following expedition itinerary is approximate and depends on such considerations as weather, route conditions and strength of the party. Expeditions average 19 days roundtrip from Base Camp. It is best to allow an entire month for total completion, including travel time from home.

Day 1: Pre-Trip Preparation and Training
7:00 a.m.	Meet at The Roadhouse Restaurant, Talkeetna, AK

There are a number of important items to accomplish in Talkeetna. After a breakfast meeting the team will attend a National Park Service presentation on expedition climbing and special considerations in Denali National Park & Preserve. Afterward, the guides will go through extensive personal equipment checks. Final recommendations and suggestions concerning gear will be made at that time. The team will work on readying group food and equipment for the glacier flight.

Day 2: Flying to Kahiltna Base Camp

After breakfast we will meet at the Hudson Air Service and begin shuttling members into Denali Base Camp, weather permitting. The spectacular scenic flight requires approximately 45 minutes, one way.

Days 3 - 21: The Expedition

The expedition itinerary is approximate and depends on such considerations as weather, route conditions and strength of the party. Twenty-two man-days of food are carried on the mountain above Base Camp. That amount can be stretched several additional days in the event of bad weather. Furthermore, there are emergency food rations cached at Base Camp, in case weather prevents the group from flying off. Expeditions average 18 days roundtrip from Base Camp. It is best to allow an entire month for total completion, including travel time from home.

Our plan is to ascend the West Buttress route to the 14,000’ level, ensuring proper acclimatization. We'll plan on spending several days at this higher altitude, before attempting the West Rib. After acclimating, we will descend the same route down to 8,000’ and approach our climb via the NE Fork Kahiltna Glacier. Once we make our approach, we will begin climbing the Lower Rib. Additional camps are established along the route, and finally, the upper West Rib is ascended to the summit. Our descent route is via the West Buttress to Genet Basin, Kahiltna glacier and return to Base.

DAY 3: Base to Camp 1, 8,000’

DAY 4: Camp 1 to Camp 2, 9,500’

DAY 5: Camp 2 to Camp 3, 11,000’

DAY 6: Camp 3 to Cache 14,400’

DAY 7: Camp 3 to Camp 4 14,400’

DAY 8: Acclimatization day Camp 4

DAY 9: Camp 4 to Cache 16,000’ on West Rib

DAY 10: Acclimatization day Camp 4

DAY 11: Camp 4 to N.E. Fork of the Kahiltna 8,200’

DAY 12: N.E. Fork to base of West Rib or ascend to 11,000’

DAY 13: Ascend to 11,000’ or Rest day

DAY 14: Ascend to 13,000’

DAY 15: Ascend to 15,000’

DAY 16: Ascend to 16,500’

DAY 17: Summit or Rest day

DAY 18:  Summit or descend

DAY 19: Descend

DAY 20: Fly off or descend

DAY 21: Fly off