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ORIZABA EXPRESS
DISPATCHES
Linden Mallory, Lead Guide,
March 17 - 22, 2008
March 21, 2008 (via email received 1:03 p.m. PT/2:03 p.m. Mexico):
What a day! We couldn't have asked for better weather conditions for our Summit Climb. Wake time was 12:00 am, and we were out of camp within the hour. Our group was strong and climbed very well, with it taking us a little over 8 hours to ascend the 4,500' to the top of Pico de Orizaba.
We were the only climbers on top, and the clear skies allowed for some spectacular views. We shot some great photos and then it was time to start our descent. The weather had cooperated just long enough for us to enjoy our time on the summit, but as we started to descend, the winds picked up, and the clouds rolled in by the time we reached the foot of the glacier. The timing was perfect. The descent took just over 4 1/2 hours, making it a 12 1/2 hour summit day.
We are back at camp now, and will be packing up shortly, loading up the 4x4's and descending down to Tlachichuca.
We are two hours away from well deserved hot showers, lots of cold beverages, and a big celebration dinner at Senor Reyes'. There is already talk of a beer-pong championship after dinner. Look out Tlachichuca.
The team did an amazing job today. Everyone is doing well, and understandably tired.
March 20, 2008 (via email received 3:40 p.m. PT/4:40 p.m. Mexico):
Everyone is doing great! Today we awoke to a clear windless morning with the summit of Orizaba looming high above camp. We climbed up towards the base of the Labryinth - a maze of ice and snow filled gullies below the foot of the glacier - to practice cramponing and ice axe arrest. We have spent the remainder of the afternoon back in camp relaxing and preparing for our summit attempt.
We plan on going to bed early tonight (6:30 pm) in anticipation of our 1:00 am departure. Depending on route and weather conditions it should take us about 8+ hours to reach the summit. We'll check in tomorrow.
March 19, 2008 (via email received 8:01 p.m. PT/9:01 p.m. Mexico):
Greetings from Piedra Grande at 14,000' on Orizaba!
We left La Malinche this morning and traveled to the small town of Tlachichuca which sits in the shadow of Orizaba. After unloading our bags at Reyes' - the legendary family of Orizaba - we sorted and organized our gear for the climb.
After lunch we loaded up into the 4x4 vehicles and started the climb out of the valley and up to the mountain. The road climbs steeply out of Tlachichuca into a dense pine forest before eventually ascending above tree line and ending at Piedra Grande. We unloaded all of our gear and established our camp, just above the climbers' hut and looking up at
the entire north side of the mountain. A short afternoon hike allowed us a good view of the route before we returned to camp for dinner. The winds, which were picking up throughout the afternoon, abated as we finished our meal. We are going to bed under clear skies lit up by a mostly full moon.
Tomorrow we are climbing the lower section of the route to aid in our acclimatization and go through some training before our summit bid on Friday. Hasta manana!
March 18, 2008 (9:01 p.m. PT/ 10:01 p.m. Mexico): Everyone arrived in Mexico City on schedule last night. After checking
into the Hotel Majestic we had a little time to explore the city before our
first team meeting. The group met on the top floor restaurant overlooking
the Zocola of Mexico City, framed by Ixta and Popo off in the distance. We
enjoyed drinks overlooking the lights of the city, before heading to Café
Tucuba for dinner. We finished our meal listening to a Mariachi band.
We had an early start this morning leaving the busy city and heading to
La Malinche National Park. Our acclimatization hike took us to 13,000' on
the shoulder of La Malinche, an old volcanic summit overlooking the central
valleys of Mexico. We descended to 10,000' to spend the night at La Malintzi
in the pine forests on the lower slopes of the mountain.
Tomorrow we head to Piedra Grande, the end of the road and beginning of
our climb of Orizaba.
The group is feeling strong and looking forward to climbing El Pico de
Orizaba!
Jon Shea, Orizaba Express Lead Guide, February 18 - 23, 2008
February 23, 2008 (7:11 a.m. PT/ 9:11 a.m. Mexico):
Hi, this is Jon checking in. We had a great summit day yesterday. It was a beautiful day with no wind, warm temperatures and perfect cramponing snow.
After our climb we returned to Tlachichuca and had a wonderful dinner from our great hosts, the Reyes. Everyone is excited that the trip went well and everyone is back down safely.
It is just past 9 in the morning and we are packing up for the drive to Mexico City to catch our afternoon flights. Everyone will be heading home soon.
February 20, 2008 (2:21 p.m. PT/ 4:21 p.m. Mexico):
Hello, this is Jon checking in from the Piedra Grande Hut (14,000')
on El Pico de Orizaba. We left La
Malinche this morning and drove to the small
town of Tlachichuca at the base of the
mountain. We enjoyed a marvelous lunch
and hospitality from our friends there
before making the drive to the hut. There
are not many people here and we have the hut
mostly to ourselves. The late afternoon
clouds are rolling in and the wind is
picking up. This is typical weather most
days and it usually clears overnight. We are looking forward to a solid training day tomorrow and will then determine if
it will be beneficial for us to move to a high camp or remain at the hut. We will check in again soon.
February 19, 2008:
Afternoon check in: We had a great hike of La Malinche today.
We hiked for about 5 1/2 hours and reached
approximately 13,500'. Everyone did well on the acclimatization hike and we enjoyed getting out of the city and onto the trail. We have checked
into the cabanas at La Malinche and will spend the night here at 10,000'. We are looking forward to an authentic meal from the small restaurant here and then
will have an early night.
Morning check in: We are packing up getting ready to head to La Malinche this morning for our training hike. It was downright hot yesterday and as
the sun rises over the National Palace across the Zocalo from our Hotel, it looks like today will be another great one. We'll check in from La Malinche later today.
February 18, 2008:
Hello from Mexico City. Our group met this evening for our first team meeting. Afterward we had a nice dinner
at Cafe Tacuba here in the Historic District. It was a beautiful sunny day today in the city. We'll check in from La Malinche later today.
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