FIND YOUR ADVENTURE

Climb Details

Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$1676
$300
5 day(s)
Level 3 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability



Upcoming Climbs

June 22, 2013
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"I enjoyed the challenging route, the beautiful mountain, the excellent guides, and great fellow climbers. This was a definite step up from the DC route for me."

— Bernabe C. | Read More Testimonials

Standing on Mount Rainier's Summit

The Five Day Kautz Climb ascends the classic and moderately technical Kautz route on the south side of Mt. Rainier. Climb highlights include:

  • An expedition-style climb, establishing successive tented camps on Mt. Rainier's Wilson and Kautz glaciers.
  • The opportunity to review basic mountaineering skills and techniques on the two-day approach to high camp.
  • Climb the exciting and challenging Kautz Ice Chute, a 30 to 50 degree snow and ice section of the route on your way to the summit.

Our Five Day Kautz Climb is an expedition-style climb of Mt. Rainier's renowned Kautz Route. Following an afternoon orientation, we depart for the two-day approach crossing the Nisqually and Wilson glaciers to high camp at the edge of the Turtle Snowfield. On our summit attempt, we ascend the Kautz Glacier via the Kautz Ice Chute; an intermediate route that is exciting and challenging. This climb is ideal for climbers in great physical condition with previous mountaineering experience or for those who have previously climbed Mt. Rainier and are looking for another adventure on the mountain.

THE RMI DIFFERENCE

The Mountain Guides at RMI have a reputation as top guides in the United States. RMI Guides participated in some of America's first ventures into the far reaches of the Himalaya. Years of expedition guiding and climbing around the world have built a core of consummate professional guides.

Our guides are celebrated teachers and trainers, known for their leadership as well as their character. They possess the compassion, enthusiasm and ability to empower others and inspire them forward. Such qualities may only be found in people at the top of their profession. Despite their vast experience, RMI Guides still remember their own first steps into the mountains, and enjoy helping other climbers reach new heights.

Our exceptional focus to detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures make our programs truly memorable.

SAFETY

RMI strives to create the safest mountain experience possible. Our experienced team of guides focuses on leading fun and successful climbs without compromising safety. Each climb includes careful pre-trip planning, daily weather forecasts, avalanche forecasts, and diligent attention to detail. All RMI Guides are highly trained in remote medicine and rescue skills and carry comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio communication equipment throughout the program. Regardless of the objective or the destination, safety remains RMI’s top priority.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

5 Day Kautz Climb Equipment List

Whittaker Mountaineering Whittaker Mountaineering

The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI 2013.


Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

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BACKPACK: A 90+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb.   It is imperative that your backpack is large enough and tough enough to handle the load. A separate summit pack is not needed.


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SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 20° F will keep you warm. Use the colder bag in May, June and September; and the warmer bag in July and August. You may use either goose down or synthetic.


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SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

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ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering for the Kautz programs: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.


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ICE HAMMER: A second technical ice climbing tool of 50 - 55 cm will be needed.


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CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.


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CRAMPONS: The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.


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AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well.


Head Guides' Pick

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WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm and thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.


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BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.


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GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.


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GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.


Hands Guides' Pick

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HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.


Upper Body Guides' Pick

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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.


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SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.


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INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily at rest breaks on summit day and as an emergency garment if needed. When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.


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NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT (OPTIONAL): Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves is nice for July and August. Long sleeve is preferred for sun protection.

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  • Mountain Hardwear Wicked Lite Long Sleeve

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Lower Body Guides' Pick

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CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold and the temperatures expected on your climb.


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HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.


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LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT OR SHORTS - OPTIONAL: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.

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  • Mountain Hardwear Mesa Convertible Pant

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Feet Guides' Pick

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MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice for ascents on Mt. Rainier. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather mountaineering boots that have completely rigid soles are also adequate, but they will need to be insulated and may still result in cold feet on summit day. Lightweight hiking boots without insulation are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather.


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GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.


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2 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

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EXTRA BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: Lithium batteries perform best in cold environments. 

 
 

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MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.


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2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.


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CAMERA


Toilet Articles

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TOOTHBRUSH


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HAND SANITIZER(S): Personal size (2 oz.) bottle.


Utensils Guides' Pick

Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, group cooking gear, shovels, climbing ropes, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.


Pre-Trip Checklist

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Purchase travel insurance.


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Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.


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Arrange Lodging in Ashford.


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Purchase airplane tickets.


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Arrange Transportation to Ashford.


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Reserve rental equipment.


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Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!


What is the Guide-to Client Ratio on this program? We use a 1 guide per 2 climber ratio on the Kautz Glacier route.

What is the maximiun group size? The maximum group size of any program anywhere on Mt. Rainier is 12 individuals, including guides.

Whittaker Mountaineering Notebleu Design

©2013 RMI Expeditions // info@rmiguides.com