Climb Details
Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:
$1968
$300
6 day(s)
Mountaineering
Availability
Upcoming Climbs
| May 20, 2012 - FULL |
| June 10, 2012 - FULL |
The sharp crest of Liberty Ridge slashes through the enormity of Mt. Rainier's incredible north face. This is one of a very few routes in the Pacific Northwest that has attained the "classic" status; and it truly earns it. Rising out of the Carbon Glacier, climbing on the ridge is physically and technically demanding for most of its nearly 5,000 feet.
Team Size:
- Minimum is 2 climbers and 1 guide.
- Maximum of 4 climbers and 2 guides.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Day 1: Pre-Trip Orientation
3:00 - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
We will meet at 3:00 p.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. Note: Whittaker Mountaineering Rental Equipment is available for pick up after 12 p.m.
We begin our Pre-Trip Preparation and Training with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the afternoon your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, and instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Day 2 - 6: The Climb
7:00a.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Day 2: After an initial team meeting at 7:00 a.m. a shuttle takes our group to the trailhead at the White River Campground (4,400 feet).
Ascending through mature forest, the 3.3 mile Glacier Basin trail leads to the alpine zone and open high country at 6,600'. A steep climb over St. Elmo Pass (7,400') and a traverse across Winthrop Glacier brings us to Camp 1 at approximately 7,000' on lower Curtis Ridge. Camp commands a spectacular view of the North Wall of Mt. Rainier and Liberty Ridge. This is a very long day, 7 - 8 hours, of laboring beneath heavy loads.
Beginning the climb
Day 3: We may encounter potentially complicated route finding as we negotiate the Carbon Glacier and make our way over to the base of Liberty Ridge (8,700'). Next, it will require 4 to 6 hours of climbing up steep and exposed snow (40 degrees) from the base of the route to our camp. Our bivouac (small tent site at 10,700') will be at Thumb Rock . This can easily be another full 8-hour day.
Reaching Liberty Ridge
Day 4: After a pre-dawn wake-up, we will resume the climb of the Ridge up continuously steep snow and ice (40 - 50 degrees). Rock outcrops provide natural running belays, and where these are lacking snow and ice anchors will be placed by the climbing team. 14,112' Liberty Cap, the north summit of Mt. Rainier, looms overhead as we approach the crux of the route. There is usually a short, steep pitch of hard ice (to 70 degrees) to negotiate the bergschrund at an altitude of approximately 13,500'. We top out on Liberty Cap and commence a long traverse to Columbia Crest (14,410'). It will require approximately 8 to 10 hours to the summit from high camp (Thumb Rock). Depending on a variety of considerations including weather, strength of the party and route conditions, we may establish a summit camp or descend the Emmons Glacier as far as feasible. This is a very long, hard day, with over 3,000' of non-stop steep climbing at high altitude.
Climbing Liberty RidgeReaching the summit
Day 5: We will complete our descent today, normally via Camp Schurman, Inter Glacier, Glacier Basin and White River campground. There our shuttle waits for the ride back to Ashford. Plan to arrive at Rainier BaseCamp in the late afternoon or early evening. We celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates.
Day 6: This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter bad weather or need additional time on the route.
Liberty Ridge Climb Equipment List
The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI 2012.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick
BACKPACK: A 70+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A separate summit pack is not needed.
SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 20° F will keep you warm. Use the colder bag in May, June and September; and the warmer bag in July and August. You may use either goose down or synthetic.
Technical Gear Guides' Pick
ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
CRAMPONS: The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
12 ' PERLON CORD: 7 mm cordelette in one continuous length.
Head Guides' Pick
GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.
Hands Guides' Pick
HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
Upper Body Guides' Pick
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT (OPTIONAL): Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves is nice for July and August. Long sleeve is preferred for sun protection.
Lower Body Guides' Pick
CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.
HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
Feet Guides' Pick
MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice for ascents on Mt. Rainier. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather mountaineering boots that have completely rigid soles are also adequate, but they will need to be insulated and may still result in cold feet on summit day. Lightweight hiking boots without insulation are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather.
GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick
EXTRA BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: Lithium batteries perform best in cold environments.
2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
2 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
ZIP-LOCK BAG (1 GALLON): Please use the Zip-Lock as your personal trash bag.
CAMERA
Toilet Articles
TOOTHBRUSH
Personal First Aid Kit
BAND-AIDS
ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL
MOLESKIN
ANTACIDS
IMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)
PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)
SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE
Utensils Guides' Pick
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, group cooking gear, shovels, climbing ropes, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.
Arrange Lodging in Ashford.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Arrange Transportation to Ashford.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
On the Liberty Ridge Climb you will need five trail lunches, four dinners and four breakfasts while on the mountain.
Below are some examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.
Lunch / Snacks
Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.
Breakfast
Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.
Dinner
Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. In addition, bring coffee, tea, cocoa or cider to warm you up before bedtime.
Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.
Ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.
Mount Rainier Meal Packages
You will find some food items available at Whittaker Mountaineering (freeze-dried meals and energy bars) and BaseCamp Bar & Grill (pizzas, sack lunches, sandwiches, and some snacks).
Whittaker Mountaineering has put together meal packages, evaluated by a nutritionist for carbohydrate, protein and fat, for climbing Mt. Rainier. Click here to reserve yours.
Qualifications
Previous climbing experience is required for this program. In order to participate, each team member needs to submit the RMI Registration Form showing, at a minimum the following skills:
- A RMI Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier or in Alaska or an equivalent multi-day mountaineering seminar.
- Familiar with ice axe and crampon use, team rope travel skills, ice axe arrest techniques, crevasse rescue techniques, and belaying.
- A minimum of two or more snow/ice climbs of at least 2,000 feet in length. These climbs must include pitches of no less than 30-50 degrees in angle, using two tool techniques.
- Participated in a basic ice climbing course, top roping ice of grade III or greater.
Physical Fitness Training
Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.
- Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
- Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
- Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.
For this Liberty Ridge Climb, you are preparing for:
- Steep hiking, climbing and glacier travel with a 40-50 lb load
- Ascending Liberty Ridge, traversing over the summit, and descending the Emmons route
- A 12+ hour summit day
- Mountaineering techniques which require core strength and flexibility
Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!
Below are approximate outlines of the program's physical demands that will be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals:
|
Total Hiking Time
|
Elevation Gain / Loss
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Pack Weight
|
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| DAY 1 | |||
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n/a
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n/a
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n/a
|
|
| DAY 2 | |||
|
7 - 8 Hours
|
Gain = 3,000'
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40 - 50 lbs
|
|
| DAY 3 | |||
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4 - 6 Hours
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Gain = 3,200'
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40 - 50 lbs
|
|
| DAY 4 | |||
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8 - 12 Hours
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Gain = 3,800'
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40 - 50 lbs
|
|
| DAY 5 | |||
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6 - 8 Hours
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Loss = Up to 10,000'
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40 - 50 lbs
|
|
| DAY 6 | |||
|
CONTINGENCY DAY
|
|||
Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.
Acclimatization
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.
While the key to climbing high is proper acclimatization, this climb effectively moves up and down the mountain at a rate that exceeds our body’s ability to adjust (acclimate) to the high altitude. During our short climb, our bodies simply do not have the time to completely adjust to the altitude, and because of this short stay, our bodies do not typically succumb to altitude’s ill effects. In short, climbers generally experience the mild but uncomfortable, yet normal, symptoms of their bodies beginning the adjustment process. Fitness remains the key factor in a climber’s performance.
In addition, physical performance at altitude is often related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are usually key factors in an individual’s success on a short-term visit to altitude.
Getting There
Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA and is the home of Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., Whittaker Mountaineering, Whittaker’s Bunkhouse, and Mt. Rainier Visitor Center. Ashford is located 75 miles from the Sea-Tac Airport and most climbers traveling to Ashford in the winter will want to rent a car. This is the most convenient and reliable way to get here.
Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.
Other transportation options are:
|
Harbor Town Car Phone: 253-255-5665 Email: taxi@harbortaxicab.com |
Seattle Airport Car Service Phone: 206-375-4000 Email: mail@seattleairportcarservice.com |
|
Keven - Tacoma Yellow Cab Phone: 253-678-2631 Email: kevtacyelocab@hotmail.com |
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to purchase travel insurance which covers trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation and repatriation. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details including adventure/sports coverage. Additional cancellation coverage may be available if purchased within 14 days of making your trip deposit. However, trip insurance can be purchased at any time prior to the start of your program.
For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | Erin Rountree |
| Travelex Insurance |
Ashford Area Accommodations
| Whittaker's Bunkhouse | (360) 569-2439 |
| Nisqually Lodge | (360) 569-8804 |
| Jasmer's at Mt. Rainier | (360) 569-2682 |
| Alexander's Country Inn & Restaurant | (800) 654-7615 |
| Guest Services Inc: (Paradise Inn and National Park Inn) | (360) 569-2275 |
| Camping: SW Area | n/a |
| You may also go to VisitRainier.com to search for accommodations in the Ashford area. | |
Weather
For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here.
Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:
- Paradise view towards Mount Rainier
- Paradise view - East
- Paradise view - West
- Paradise view towards the Tatoosh Range
- Longmire view
- Air Quality Camera
Tipping
Our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program.
Facts
Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. Mt. Rainier, at 14,410', is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is a dormant volcano that last erupted approximately 150 years ago.
Guided mountaineering activity has taken place from the late 1800's, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America and the Himalayas. With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States. Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world. There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and history of climbing there.
Resources
General Information on Mt. Rainier National Park (MRNP)
www.nps.gov/mora
Publications, videos, etc. on the flora, fauna, history, etc. of MRNP
Northwest Interpretive Association - www.nwpubliclands.org
General Mountaineering: publications, videos, etc.
The Mountaineers Book - www.mountaineersbooks.org
Gateway Communities & Activities outside Mt. Rainier National Park
www.visitrainier.com
Recommended Reading
The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar
Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier
Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow
National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map
Payments
A deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. If your final payment is not received within 90 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.
Cancellation:
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $300 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.
We strongly encourage everyone to purchase travel insurance which covers trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation and repatriation. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details including adventure/sports coverage. Additional cancellation coverage may be available if purchased within 14 days of making your trip deposit. However, trip insurance can be purchased at any time prior to the start of your program.
For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | Erin Rountree |
| Travelex Insurance |
We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
Change of Date:
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date for a $100 fee per person. There are no date changes allowed less than 30 days before departure.
Risk Management:
Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Climber Responsibilities:
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:
- is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
- honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions:
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international.
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
Accompaniment by parent or legal guardian is required for the program or climb.
Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.
General Policies:
RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.
Summit Attempt:
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit of Mount Rainier. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities or the abilities of others may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Your program fee entitles you to one summit attempt of Mount Rainier on your specified dates. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, rescues, etc.) are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
What is the Guide-to Client Ratio on this program? We use a 1 guide per 2 climber ratio on the Liberty Ridge route.
What is the maximiun group size? The maximum group size is 6 individuals, including guides.