RMI Newsletter Archive

Climbers Descending the Emmons Glacier this summer.

Leaves turning yellow in the Ashford Valley, a fresh layer of snow at Paradise, wild weather up high on Mt. Rainier, first dropping several feet of new snow and then nuclear winds scouring the glaciers to leave rock-hard, icy conditions: it's official, fall is here and the summer Mt. Rainier climbing season is over!

With more than 240 climbs of the mountain and 1,640 successful summits, it has been an incredible climbing season here on Mt. Rainier. In addition, we've had teams in Alaska, Ecuador, and Tanzania. Thanks to everyone who came out to climb with us this summer - sharing the excitement and adventure in the mountains drives our passion for the profession! The 2011 Rainier Mountain Festival on September 10th and 11th was a fun time to see familiar faces, catch up with old friends, and share beers with novice climbers and mountaineering legends alike. And the weather fully cooperated with sun and temperatures in the mid 80's!

In other exciting RMI news, a team of RMI Guides have been in Tibet since early September climbing 26,289' Shishapangma, the fourteenth highest mountain in the world. They made their summit bid last week, congratulations to Elias, Geoff, Jake, Eric, Leon and Bridget on their impressive climb! If you haven't been following, you can catch up on the updates from their climb and read about their summit on the RMI Blog.

With autumn settling in, we are gearing up for another busy and exciting winter of mountain adventures - from international expeditions around the world to skiing and ice climbing closer to home. Take a look through our programs and see what adventures spark your interest! The 2012 Mt. Rainier program dates are posted as well: call us soon to sign up for a climb before the dates fill up. My next adventure will be climbing in Ecuador mid-February. And you know what? Having a lofty goal to up my training routine is awesome. Those extra repetitions in the gym and few extra pounds in my pack on training hikes are money in the bank when I go for the summit in February. What will be your next mountain to climb? Treat yourself to an adventure and a reason to get in the best shape of your life! Come climb with us.

Peter Whittaker

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.

This spring join RMI on an incredible journey and unforgettable adventure to the heart of the world's highest mountains. Spend two days in RMI's Everest Expedition Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier during our Everest Base Camp Trek and then tackle Island Peak, a 20,000' Himalayan Peak standing in the shadow of Mt. Everest.

Lush rainforests, exotic wildlife, rare vegetation, equatorial glaciers, and unbelievable landscapes: Mt. Kilimanjaro is a unforgettable climbing adventure. Join RMI this February to scale Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's tallest mountain. Afterwards enjoy a luxury wildlife safari - the ultimate escape and perfect end to a winter adventure!
  
 

Eager for a quick climbing adventure this winter? RMI's Mexico Volcanoes Climb offers a trip into Mexico's quiet countryside and up several of North America's tallest peaks, climbing to altitudes over 18,000'. This is a great program to venture altitudes significantly higher than Mt. Rainier, as well as for climbers constrained by time, to a beautiful and overlooked corner of the country.

How about some winter adventures closer to home? Get out on the ice of Ouray, Colorado and learn how to swing those tools with our . Venture into the world of backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering on one of our Ski Programs, enjoying the legendary Northwestern snow of Mt. Rainier. Or build your climbing skills on one of our Expedition Skills Seminars - Winter, learning the skills and techniques of glacial climbing with a focus on cold weather and high altitude expedition mountaineering.

Danny Poff of Boones Mill, VA, has won this issue's photo contest, $250 RMI program credit, and the last, automatic entry into the grand prize drawing December 2011. Congratulations, Danny!

December is the grand prize drawing! Five winners from this year's contests go head-to-head...on-line! Click here to vote for the Grand Prize winner. The winner of the $500 trip credit (for total credit winnings of $750) will be announced in the December newsletter. For more information check out our photo contest details. Good luck! 

We caught up with Dr. Bruce M. Freedman shortly after his September Expeditions Skills Seminar - Camp Muir to hear about his experiences climbing on Mt. Rainier and his previous international climbs.

Click here to read Bruce's Interview...

Denali National Park and Preserve is reviewing the number of guided climbers allowed on Mt. McKinley each season. The National Park Service is making a judgment that guiding diminishes the quality of self-reliance and is not in accordance with the wilderness objectives of Denali. RMI has worked as a concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve for over 35 years. The NPS recognizes that guided groups have less impact on the mountain than independent climbers. The NPS knows that guided groups have a better safety record, a better LNT record, and that they operate in cooperation with the NPS when it comes to rescues and assisting independent climbers. While the NPS proposes three options, only Alternative 3 gives the Park the flexibility to respond to public interest by having no cap on guiding so long as independent climbers are not blocked from opportunities to lead their own expeditions on the mountain. The comment period has been extended to October 31st and is the last chance to provide input on this issue. We need all climbers to express your opinion on this issue.

To review the three alternatives, please go to the NPS Park Planning website and click on "Climbing Allocations for Mt. McKinley."
Click here for a direct link to the Comment Form.

© 2009 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462

Sunrise over Little Tahoma as seen from 10,000' on Mt. Rainier.

What a great season on Mt. Rainier! Although the summer weather held off for a little longer than necessary, we are finally experiencing the beautiful, warm days of a Washington summer. Heavy snow received this spring has kept the mountain covered in a blanket of white making for ideal August climbing conditions. Wildflowers that typically bloom in late July are just now seeing the light of day and many of the lower hiking trails around Paradise are STILL covered in snow.

Personally, I have attempted Rainier five times this summer, twice with my good friend, RMI Guide Ed Viesturs. Of my five attempts I reached the summit on three. A bit less successful than expected but, hey, when the mountain says "no"... it is best not to argue. A few highlights from my climbs: watching the sun pop above the eastern horizon and hitting us high on the side of Rainier at 13,500', having snow on Disappointment Cleaver in mid-August, and climbing with a colorful group from Bellevue, WA along with my friend and CEO of First Ascent/Eddie Bauer, Neil Fiske. After 234 ascents you would think climbing Rainier would get easier... it does not. There are no shortcuts to the top, no way to summit without earning it. It is hard, but I love it.

Though it is mid-August and evening temperatures are dropping and a slight hint of yellow is coloring the leaves of the trees around Rainier BaseCamp, we still have a month of climbing left on Mt. Rainier. After that we look ahead to the annual Rainier Mountain Festival (Sept 10th and 11th) and the beginning of our climbs in the southern hemisphere. In November, RMI Guide Dave Hahn heads down to Antarctica to lead our Vinson Massif expeditions, the Ecuador, Mexico, and Aconcagua climbs begin shortly afterwards, and January kicks off our winter programs on Mt. Rainier.

As we continue to climb on Rainier and the great mountains of the world (hey, it's our job!) we hope that you can find the time to join the RMI Team for your next mountaineering adventure!

Peter Whittaker

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.

The remote Andean valleys, towering penitentes, and high altitudes of Argentina's Cerro Aconcagua make it a favorite expedition of our guides. Aconcagua offers the ideal combination of adventure to high altitudes, experience in expedition style climbing, and the chance to scale one of the world's legendary Seven Summits.

Experience all of the excitement, adventure, and legend of climbing Tanzania's Mt. Kilimanjaro with RMI this winter. Ascending from the mountain's rainforest covered base to it's glacier capped summit and afterwards ending with a luxury wildlife safari, RMI's Kilimanjaro climbs are the ultimate winter adventure and escape.
  
 

Home to several of South America's highest volcanoes with climbing reminiscent of Mt. Rainier, the Ecuador and Mexico volcanoes are the perfect peaks to challenge climbers with a winter season climb. From the Ecuadorian markets of Otavalo or the quiet streets of Tlachichuca to ice-capped summits 18,000' above, RMI's climbs in Mexico and Ecuador bring you the challenge of high altitude climbing with excitement of international mountaineering expeditions, all in a short time frame.

Generations of American mountaineers have used Mt. Rainier as a training ground in preparation for expeditions to the world's biggest mountains. RMI's Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter teaches climbers the skills and techniques of glacial climbing with a focus on cold weather and high altitude expedition mountaineering.

Clay Junell of Austin, TX, has won this issue's photo contest with his "Final Push Before the Cayambe Summit" photo. Clay receives a $250 RMI program credit and automatic entry into our Grand Prize Finalists in December 2011. Congratulations Clay!

Our next contest takes place in October. Remember to submit your favorite photo from an RMI program by October 10, 2011, to take part and have a chance to win the grand prize. For more information check out the contest details. Good luck! 

Mike Uchal

An avid mountaineer, skier, river runner, and adventurer, RMI Guide Mike Uchal set a new RMI record this summer when he spent 35 consecutive days on Mt. McKinley over the span of two expeditions - edging out RMI Owner Joe Horiskey's record of 33 days that has stood since 1972! In addition to his climbing and guiding, Mike is an experienced Renewable Energy Technologies educator and working with RMI on several innovative projects for our programs. We caught up with Mike to hear about his season.

RMI: Backpacker Magazine recently published an article on what it takes to be a first year guide at RMI, how have things changed for you in your second year at RMI?

Mike Uchal (MU): While my responsibilities as a second year guide... Read more...

RMI and To Return, Inc., a U.S. based non-profit organization dedicated to providing educational opportunities for the children of local porters and guides on Kilimanjaro, hosted the 2nd annual fundraising climb of Mt. Rainier in late July. Despite a chilly lenticular cloud cap that settled in over Rainier's top on summit day, the climb was very succesful. Read about the climb, see more photos, and learn about the scholarships being supported by the climb on the To Return website.

© 2009 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462

The RMI Team on the summit of Mt. Everest, May 21, 2011

The radio crackled to life at 6:55 a.m. Nepali Time, May 21st - RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Linden Mallory were calling from the summit of Mt. Everest.  Dave, Linden, Kaji Sherpa, and Tshering Sherpa found excellent climbing conditions and great weather on their summit bid. See photos and read about their ascent to the top of the world on the RMI Blog.

The Everest summit was a special moment for us at RMI because it came shortly after the passing of long time RMI guide, Himalayan legend, and national hero Nawang Gombu Sherpa. Gombu reached the summit of Everest with Jim Whittaker in 1963, and went on to become the first person to summit Everest twice. During his 25 years working at RMI,  Gombu inspired and introduced countless climbers to the mountains. Joe Horiskey writes ,“The running joke was that Gombu had three lungs.  He was an energetic, tireless climber who was uncomfortable with fame but always at home in the mountains.  His smile was as broad as his chest, and he smiled often.  As Director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute he left behind the prestige he commanded in his homeland to guide on Mt. Rainier numerous seasons without fanfare.  Personally, he was humble to a fault both in terms of mountaineering prowess as well as legendary physical strength.  He will be greatly missed.”  Dave Hahn reflects on his experience guiding with Gombu over the years in our Guide Shack section below.

We are honored to have worked with such a great man for over two decades and we enter this summer's climbing season continuing to be inspired by his humility and love of the mountains.

Sincerely,

Peter Whittaker

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.

Despite the Alaska Range’s unsettled May weather, four RMI expeditions reached the summit of Denali. Congratulations to the teams! The season continues with Tyler Jones, Jake Beren and Mike Haugen on the mountain at the moment.  Linden Mallory and Dave Hahn fly on shortly with their teams as the final expeditions of the 2011 season. Check out the teams reports on the RMI Blog and get inspired for next year: The 2012 McKinley Expedition dates are now posted: time to pull out those calendars and start planning your adventure!

Join RMI in Papua, Indonesia in 2012 as we launch our new Carstensz Pyramid Climb. We've drawn upon the collective years of experience of our guides to offer the best possible climbing experience on Carstensz. Partnered with local outfitters and led by our veteran guides, the journey from the equatorial jungles to the rocky summit is an unforgettable adventure on one of the world's Seven Summits.
  
 

Kilimanjaro - Holiday Adventures!
Looking for a different way to celebrate the holidays? Spend this year’s holiday season climbing Tanzania’s Mt. Kilimanjaro. Climbers on our December 20th Kilimanjaro Climb and Safari will spend Christmas on Kilimanjaro, and celebrate New Year’s Eve on the rim of the stunning Ngorogoro Crater.  For those looking for a more immediate escape, we have a few spots left on our August and September Kilimanjaro climbs.

Aconcagua - New December Date!
Climb Argentina’s Cerro Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the southern hemisphere and the tallest peak in the world outside of the Himalaya. Aconcagua is a classic climb and a perfect high altitude expedition.  Join RMI on the "Stone Sentinel" this winter.

Looking for a weekend climbing adventure this summer? Venture to Washington’s North Cascades for some of the country’s best summer alpine climbing. Beautiful rock and ice routes offer excellent climbing and are a favorite climbing destination for our guides. RMI’s North Cascades climbs are perfect for climbers eager to get onto classic alpine climbs under the guidance and instruction of our knowledgeable guides.  

Lori Stewart of Lakewood, CO, has won this issue's photo contest with her "Heading Home" photo.  Lori receives a $250 RMI program credit and automatic entry into our Grand Prize drawing December 2011. Congratulations Lori!

Our next contest takes place in August. Remember to submit your favorite photo from an RMI program by August 10, 2011, to take part and have a chance to win the grand prize. For more information check out the contest details. Good luck! 

Nawang Gombu, 1936-2011

By Dave Hahn

The most famous RMI guide that ever lived was also a profoundly humble man in an arena not known for fostering humility.  Nawang Gombu Sherpa was a man of many such contrasts.

My memories of working with Gombu aren’t unique or privileged.  I wasn’t seeing some side of him that others weren’t privy to.  But because of his unassuming nature, casual acquaintances might have mistaken his stature in the world.  Certainly not, if they’d studied mountaineering  and 20th century world history.  Gombu was the first man to summit Mount Everest twice.  Read more...

RMI is partnering with Camp Patriot again this year for the 2011 Camp Patriot Mt. Rainier Climb, a climb of Mt. Rainier with our wounded veterans. Join Camp Patriot and the Seattle Seahawks at Qwest Field on July 9th for a dinner and fundraiser and to wish the veterans the best before they set off on the climb. Click here for more information and tickets to attend.

Camp Patriot Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier. 
Photo: Camp Patriot Collection
 

© 2009 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462

Is spring here yet? Hopefully you are experiencing warmer temperatures and the hint of color blooming around you. Here in Washington we are still waiting. We have seen snow twice this week in Ashford and Paradise is boasting over 200 inches on the ground. Our final Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar for the winter, led by Brent Okita and Casey Grom, wrapped up last week. The team camped lower on the mountain before reaching Camp Muir. Any accumulation of snow during the week was swept away by 80 mph winds! These are the times we are thankful for the bunkhouse at Camp Muir! The team was able to spend lots of time training on the mountain and preparing for bigger objectives.

The RMI Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak team, led by RMI Guide Linden Mallory, had a fantastic trip through Nepal and enjoyed their time on the trail and at Everest Base Camp. The team was able to summit both Kala Patar and Island Peak. Linden has now joined RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Mark Tucker and climbers Bill and Sara at Everest Base Camp as the final member of the Mt. Everest Expedition. Follow along on the RMI Blog as the team begins their rotations at Camp 1.

Our summer season is just around the corner. Mt. McKinley Expeditions begin May 3rd with RMI Guides Mike Walter, Seth Waterfall and Ed Viesturs leading the first trips of the season. On Mt. Rainier, the climbs begin on May 14th. We are looking forward to the buzz around Ashford as our climbing teams gather to begin their summit attempts.

We hope to see you on a mountain soon.

Peter Whittaker

It is not too early to start planning your next adventure - especially when that means heading to Mexico or Ecuador during their summer months for some warm, dry weather!

Ecuador - Space is still available on our Ecuador's Volcanoes program November 29 - 3 December, 2011. This trip is a perfect combination of climbing and culture. Climb the glaciated peaks of Cotopaxi (19,348') and Cayambe (18,997'), visit a local Ecuadorian market, enjoy a tour of Colonial Quito, and stay in traditional haciendas.

Mexico - Join us December 3 - 11, 2011 for climbs of both Pico de Orizaba and Ixtaccihuatl. These climbs are a great next step after sharpening your crampons on Mt. Rainier.

Climber Sid Eland joined RMI in January for the Aconcagua Expedition. We spoke with him last week about that expedition.

RMI: What about your climb was so much better than you expected?

Sid Eland: The weather was better that I expected even though it is one thing I know you can never count on. The food and accommodations were also better than I anticipated. That’s not surprising, however, as I have come to expect excellence from RMI programs.

RMI: What did you enjoy most about Argentina?

Click here to continue Sid's Interview...

Don't wait... 2012 Aconcagua Expeditions dates are posted now.

Are you ready to broaden your climbing horizons beyond Mt. Rainier? The North Cascades of Washington offer a broad range of climbs for both the novice and expert.

Fun and easy alpine rock climbs, complex glaciated peaks, cascading waterfalls, and breathtaking alpine basins with numerous classic routes wait right outside our tent door. The North Cascades truly has it all.

Join us for a moderate ascent of Mt. Shuksan's Sulphide Glacier or some classic alpine rock climbing on the West Ridge of Forbidden, one of the "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America." For a climb that has it all, take a look at the Fisher's Chimney route on Mt. Shuksan's dramatic north side: moderate glacier and rock terrain, a stunning high camp, and a striking summit make this a guide's favorite.

Would you like to create your own adventure? You can hire a RMI guide on a private basis for a North Cascade climb or for personalized instruction. Whatever your climbing goals may entail, RMI's North Cascade guides have the climb for you.

Our Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari begins in Arusha, Tanzania. Spending six nights and seven days on the mountain provides a great experience for our teams. And along with help from our Tanzanian porters, guides and cooks, our summit success on Kilimanjaro is over 90%!

Bruce Lytle of Auburn, WA, has won this issue's photo contest with his picture of Little Tahoma. Bruce receives a $250 RMI program credit,and automatic entry into the grand prize drawing this December 2011. Congratulations Bruce!

Little Tahoma Facts

Little Tahoma - At 11,138', it is the third highest summit in Washington. Little 'T' as it is known, is a 'satellite' or sub-peak of Mt Rainier. Geologists hypothesize it was formerly connected to the main mountain. Prior to the Osceola Mudflow 5,600 years ago, Rainier's summit stood 16,000'. Note the lines of strata trending upward and westward and you can imagine the former breadth of Mt Rainier.

A major rockfall from the N. face of Little Tahoma occurred on December 14, 1964. The boom was heard at nearby Crystal Mountain ski area, but clouds shrouded the mountain. Rock debris from this event blankets the lower Emmons Glacier, and is visible to climbers on the route from Camp Muir.

June is our next contest. Remember to submit your favorite photo from an RMI program by May 15, 2011, to take part in next issue’s contest and chance to win the grand prize. For more information check out the contest details. Good luck!

Full time climber, adventurer, and RMI Guide Eric Frank is used to being on the move. Since starting with RMI in 2008, he has spent full summers guiding in the Pacific Northwest and large parts of the off-seasons travelling to survey many of North America's greatest climbing locations. After hundreds of nights spent in a sleeping bag in locations from Mexico to Alaska, his conclusion "I've only scratched the surface. I'm going to need a lot more time!" We recently had the chance to sit down and chat with Eric about life.

RMI: Eric, how are you doing? How was your winter?

Eric Frank (EF): It has been a great winter! I was able to spend part of December in Ohio visiting my family and some long lost friends. Once January rolled around I headed to Colorado to ski and ice climb. After a month of nearly perfect weather, I drove north to sample the warmer temps and deep snow here in the Pacific Northwest. The rest of the spring has been split between guiding, climbing and some office work.

RMI: You recently got back from an Orizaba Express trip to the Mexican Volcanoes. Tell us about that...

Click here to continue Eric's interview...

On March 29 the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project (KPAP) office in Moshi, Tanzania was filled to the ceiling with boxes received from your generous donations from our "10,000 for 2010." From across the U.S.A to Ashford and then on to Dar Es Salaam, the gear was gathered from Customs by the KPAP team and transported to Moshi. They are busy inventorying and sorting. This gear will soon be lent to porters while they are working on Kilimanjaro. We are very excited to have been able to facilitate the gathering and sending of gear to the hard-working, well-deserving porters and look forward to seeing our porters better equipped when helping our teams reach the summit of Kilimanjaro.

Thank you to everyone who participated in this project. We extend a special thanks to RMI Guide Dave Conlan for his vision and assistance in getting the program started, and KPAP Program Manager Karen Valenti. Without all of you who contributed to this great cause, however, nothing could have happened - so thank you the most!

Asante sana (Thank you)!

© 2011 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462

Although it's only February, this year has already been full of adventure here at RMI.  Shortly after the New Year I traded the long winter nights of the Northwest for the midnight sun of the Antarctic, climbing the Vinson Massif with fellow RMI guides Ed Viesturs, Caroline George, and Seth Waterfall. Afterwards we completed several first ascents and ski descents in the Ellsworth Mountain area. It was a great expedition and you can catch up on our dispatches on the RMI Blog.

While we were in Antarctica, Gabriel Barral and his team were climbing Argentina’s Aconcagua, finding unheard of conditions on the summit: warm temperatures and no winds! Mike Walter and his team found similar conditions during their Ecuador Volcanoes climb in January as well. Our February Expedition Skills Seminar reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a beautiful winter day and our second Aconcagua expedition, led by Billy Nugent, reached the summit on Valentine’s Day. They are back in Mendoza enjoying a well deserved steak and glass of Malbec!

Meanwhile RMI teams are climbing Kilimanjaro and the Volcanoes of Mexico.  Our Himalayan climbs begin next month with teams trekking to Everest Basecamp, climbing Island Peak and Mt. Everest; be sure to follow all the daily reports on our blog.

We’ve posted all of our 2012 international dates on our website so pull out that calendar and start planning!

We look forward to seeing you out in the mountains this year!

Peter Whittaker

P.S. The Travel + Leisure World's Best 2011 Survey is going on now, please help RMI score well! Cast your vote in the section for Tour Operators/Safari Outfitters. Thanks for your support!

Finished an Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier? Take the next step... to Denali.  Sitting deep in the heart of the Alaska Range and rising 18,000’ above tundra, Denali is a true mountaineering adventure. 

We are gearing up for the 2011 McKinley climbing season and our expeditions are filling quickly!   Join RMI and our more than 35 years of experience climbing Alaska’s “The High One” this spring.

RMI’s Expedition Skills Seminars have taught generations of climbers the skills needed to venture safely into the mountains. 

Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir has been the standard of excellence for mountaineering seminars for over forty years. Based out of Camp Muir, days are spent on nearby glaciers where we focus on developing the mountaineering skills to pursue bigger mountains like McKinley and Aconcagua. A flexible itinerary means increased chances for a successful summit bid of Mt. Rainier. 

NEW!!!  On the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise, we ascend the Paradise Glacier where excellent summer ice climbing can be found. From our high camp we summit via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. This program places an emphasis on technical training and building mountaineering skills. It’s a great compliment to our existing seminar lineup and we’re pleased to be running it!

Further to the north our Alaska Mountaineering Seminars fly into Denali Base Camp and spend nine days learning mountaineeirng skills while experience the terrain and weather of the great Alaska range.  We put our new skills to the test with a summit attempt of Mt. Francis in the shadow of Denali.

Come climb with us!

Join our 2011 fall expedition to Cho Oyu on a journey that takes you from Kathmandu to Lhasa and the world’s sixth highest mountain. Cho Oyu is widely considered the most accessible of the 8,000 meter peaks and climbing with RMI’s Himalayan veteran, Casey Grom, on this expedition is ideal for those with previous high altitude experience and seeking a classic Himalayan climb.

Venture to the midst of the Antarctice Ice Sheet to scale the Vinson Massif, the highest point in Antarctica, in an adventure unlike any other on earth. Experience matters when climbing one of the most remote mountain in the world: join RMI Guide Dave Hahn on our November 2011 expedition who in addition to his records on Everest has 27 ascents of Vinson and is the most experienced and sought after Vinson Guide around.

Steve Brush of Willow Spring, NC, has won this issue's photo contest, $250 RMI program credit, and automatic entry into the grand prize drawing this December 2011. Congratulations Steve.

April is our next contest. Remember to submit your favorite photo from an RMI program by March 15, 2011 to take part in next issue’s contest and chance to win the grand prize. For more information check out the contest details. Good luck!

RMI: Ed, welcome home from Vinson. In addition to your climbing and guiding you are the head spokesperson for Source44, an organization that helps companies identify the sustainability of their supply chains, how did you become involved?

Ed Viesturs (EV): I met the founder Jess Kraus years ago when he ran a company called 3E. He had hired me for a speaking event and we became friendS afterwards. We've stayed in touch and when he decided to form Source44 he asked me to become involved as spokesperson. I'm also a shareholder. It's a worthy enterprise to be involved with - a business that really does some good. Carbon footprinting of materials, products and even the buisinesses themselves is becoming very popular ... Click here to read more

© 2010 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462

Winter has settled into the mountains of the Pacific Northwest and that means trips in  the sunny south have begun.  Our Ecuador Volcanoes Team finished their trip a few days ago, successfully tackling the summit of both Cotopaxi and Cayambe. Further to the north, Jake Beren and his team wrapped up climbing the Mexican Volcanoes reaching the summit of both Pico de Orizaba and Ixtaccihuatl. Meanwhile, our Cotopaxi Express climb met in Quito last Friday and made the summit of Cotopaxi today.  Check out their dispatches for a little distraction from all of the holiday preparations.

I am getting ready to leave for Antarctica’s Vinson Massif with fellow RMI guides Ed Viesturs, Caroline George, and Seth Waterfall in a matter of weeks. After our expedition to Vinson we are heading to the Union Glacier in the Heritage Range of the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica to climb and ski several virgin peaks there. It promises to be an exciting trip so be sure to follow our daily dispatches as we call in from the ice to give you the report on our progress.

As the Holiday Season arrives it’s time to start thinking about what mountain adventures await you for 2011. From weekend escapes to once in a lifetime expeditions, we have the perfect collection of programs to help get you out in the mountains next year!

Sincerely,

 Peter Whittaker, Owner

Want to sneak out of the office for a few days and climb the third highest peak in North America while you’re at it? Check out our Orizaba Express trip beginning March 5th, there are still a few spots left! 

Ouray Ice Climbing Climb Frozen Waterfalls
Join us in the historic mining town of Ouray, Colorado for some fun on the ice. With hundreds of climbs suited to a variety of levels, Ouray is the ideal place to be introduced to ice climbing and a great destination for a winter weekend getaway.

Mt. Rainier Ski Programs A Classic Ski Mountaineering Destination
With 36 square miles of snowfields and glaciers and 635” of average snowfall each winter, Mt. Rainier is the ideal place to leave the ski area boundaries and broaden your backcountry skills. Our ski programs are perfect for competent skiers interested in building their backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering skills.

Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak: Trek Amongst the Shadows of Giants

Follow the footsteps of legendary climbers and walk amidst the highest peaks on earth with our trek through Nepal’s Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp. As one of the few groups actually to stay at Base Camp instead of merely visiting for a couple of hours, we spend a few nights at Base Camp living at the foot Mt. Everest. Afterwards, you can extend your adventure and take part in the excitement of mountaineering in the Himalayas with a climb of nearby 20,305' Island Peak.

Mt. McKinley North America’s Legendary Mountain
With more vertical relief from Base Camp to the summit than Mt. Everest and so remote it is only accessible by ski plane, climbing McKinley is one of the ultimate mountaineering experiences. Join RMI and our more than 35 years of experience leading expeditions on Mt. McKinley this spring.

Expeditions Skills Seminar Camp Muir Build your Mountaineering Experience
It’s hard to beat the fun of spending a week at 10,000’ on Mt. Rainier. Take part in one of RMI’s classic Camp Muir Seminars, learning the fundamental skills of mountaineering in preparation for a summit bid of the most prominent peak in the Lower 48.

Elbrus Northside  Solitude on Europe’s Highest Peak
Explore forgotten side of Mt. Elbrus with our expedition style climb of the northside. Comparable in difficulty to the standard route but world’s apart in experience, RMI is the only American guide service to offer this unique climb of one of Europe’s highest peak.

Congratulations to Chris Codding of Edmond, OK for winning our Annual Photo Contest Grand Prize. Chris’ photo received the most number of votes from all of you and he wins an additional $500 credit towards the program of his choice, making his total winnings for the Photo Contest $750. Thanks to Sam, Karl, Dean, and Richard for submitting their photos and to everyone for their votes.
Go through those files and send your entry for the start of the 2011 Photo Contest.  Click here for Contest Details.

Tyler Jones has been guiding with RMI since 2003, amassing an impressive resume of long alpine climbs, steep rock walls, and difficult ski descents throughout his climbing and guiding career. This fall Tyler received his IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations) certification, the highest certification possible in guiding. We caught up with Tyler fresh back from skiing some of Rainier’s early season powder.

RMI: Tyler, it has been an exciting fall for you. Congratulations on receiving your IFMGA Certification! Tell us about it.

Tyler Jones: The whole process really  started when I was 13 years old and decided I wanted to be a mountain guide. I became serious about it in 2003... (Click here to read more on Tyler)

RMI is proud to announce our partnership with To Return, Inc., a U.S. based non-profit organization dedicated to providing educational opportunities for the children of local porters and guides on Kilimanjaro. In July of 2010 RMI hosted a fundraising climb of Mt. Rainier for To Return that raised over $12,000 for projects and scholarships in Tanzania. Learn more about To Return’s innovative sponsorship system and how to become involved here.

© 2010 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462

As we enter into July  we begin to shift our focus away from the Himalaya and McKinley expeditions to climbing in the Cascade Mountains of Washington.  Jagged peaks streak the horizon, laying out endless alpine rock and glacier climbs ... look closely and you may see one of our teams out there this summer.

The 2010 Everest Expedition Team Members returned from a safe and successful expedition in early June.  Congratulations to Rob, Michael, Leif, Scott, Wendy, Seth, Casey, Chad and Dave!

Our Mt. McKinley Expeditions are in full swing with all of our teams reaching the summit thus far.  RMI teams have  also been busy aborad, recently completing climbs of  Kilimanjaro, Cotopaxi and Cayambe.

Summer climbing in the Cascades, whether it is Mt. Rainier, Mt. Shuksan, or the many others,  can be addicting. So addicting that one may even climb Mt. Rainier 400 times as did RMI's  veteran senior guide Brent Okita recently - congratulations Brent!


Sincerely,

 
Peter Whittaker
Owner
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.

The RMI climbing season on Denali is winding down, with several expeditions concluded and the final party currently on the route.

Weather throughout May was exceptional, with trips averaging 16.5 days from base camp to the summit and return.  The weather in June has been a bit unsettled, but so far has not kept anyone from making the top.

The first seven RMI groups have been successful reaching the summit, two of them 100%!  Special congratulations to Al Learned, 72, who climbed Denali on our May 4 Expedition. 

With an eye towards next year, we have just posted our 2011 McKinely Expedition Dates.

Click here to read more

Soaring to over 16,000' above the windswept Antarctic Plateau, several hundred miles from the South Pole, stands Mount Vinson, Antarctica's highest point. Merely reaching the foot of the Vinson Massif is a true adventure, as climbers cross the Drake Passage from South America to Patriot Hills before continuing on into Antarctica's interior on a ski plane in order to reach the foot of the mountain.

With a record 26 summits of Vinson, there is no better guide to experience Antartica's Vinson Massif than veteran guide Dave Hahn...

Click here to read more

The summer monsoon will soon retreat  from the high peaks of the Himalayas, to be followed closely by the fall climbing and trekking season in Nepal. Leading climbers on a fascinatiing adventure through a landscape shaped by both glaciers and Sherpa culture, RMI's Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Climb combines a journey to the heart of the world's highest mountains, through vibrant cultures of the Khumbu Valley, with the opportunity to climb a classic Himalayan peak.

After ascending through the twisting valleys of the Khumbu, along narrow pathways carved by hand, past ancient monasteries, and beneath the shadows of legendary mountains such as Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, we arrive at Everest Base Camp, along the flanks of the Khumbu Glacier. Our climbers then don their climbing gear for an ascent of nearby Imja Tse, known as Island Peak. The mountain's steep flanks and narrow summit .. Read More.

Dean Wiseman of Indianapolis, IN has won this issue's photo contest, $250 RMI program credit, and automatic entry into the grand prize drawing this December 2010. Congratulations Dean.

August is our next contest. Submit your favorite photo from an RMI Expedition by August 1, 2010  For more information check out rmiguides.com. Good luck!

400 Summits and He Keeps On Climbing

Brent Okita is the consumate professional guide, leading successful expeditions around the world for over 20 years. This past week, Brent summited Mt. Rainier for the 400th time! Whether it is leading a climb up the flanks of Mt. Rainier, being a member of a Mt. Everest Expedition, or the ascending the ridges of Mt. McKinley, Brent approaches each trip with fervur and excitement that is passed on to his climbers.

We were able to catch up with Brent to get a little insight to such a storied career that keeps on going:

RMI: Brent, first off congratulations on your 400th! How does it feel?

After finally making it, with the unpleasant weather on the summit the evening before and friends congratulating me even before I had climbed, there is definitely a sense of relief to go with the pretty good feeling of just having reached this milestone of sorts.               

RMI: Can you recall what it was like for you when you first began guiding for RMI in the 80's? Share a little for us ...        

Click here to read more of Brent's interview

10,000 for 2010 - Kilimanjaro Clothing Drive

Your response as been great so far as we continue to collect used outdoor clothing. Please spread the word to any friends and family that may have any old ski jackets, wind pants, gloves, hats, etc. lying around.  We have teamed up with the non profit Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project to help collect 10,000 pieces of outdoor synthetic clothes for the near ten thousand porters on Kilimanjaro. Send your tax deductible synthetic clothing donation to our base camp PO BOX Q Ashford WA 98304 or drop it off after your climb this year. This Fall we will ship over a cargo container with all the donations and climb Kilimanjaro in honor of this initiative. Find out more on how you may donate and join our Kilimanjaro expedition here. Follow on Facebook as well!

Winner of the First Ascent Guide Jacket

Congratulations to Shane Markus the winner of our Everest Newsletter sign up! Shane joined our e-newsletter notification to follow the RMI 2010 Everest Dispatches and qualified to win a First Ascent Mount Guide Jacket.

Stay tuned to our web site and Facebook Fan Page for more contests throughout the year.

© 2010 Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. Post Office Box Q, 30027 State Route 706 E | Ashford | WA | 98304 | Ph: 888-892-5462