1-888-892-5462
Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier
1-888-892-5462
Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:
$940
4 day(s)
Mountaineering
Mt. Shuksan (9,127 feet) has become an iconic mountain for climbers in the northwest with its rugged beauty, central location in the North Cascades, and rich mountaineering history. Our guides find it to be one of the most enjoyable ascents in Washington and are always eager to introduce climbers to Mt. Shuksan's charms. This climb has something to offer everyone: an approach through pristine forests, moderate glacier travel, an exhilarating and airy summit, and a view of the surrounding North Cascade peaks that can't be beat. The climbing is moderate in nature but you can count on feeling the wind beneath your feet as you ascend the final rock and snow pyramid to the summit. This climb is well suited for the beginning climber who wants to learn basic climbing skills and experience a classic summit, or the more experienced mountaineer who has not yet ticked this northwest icon.
We lead this route at a 3 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive a high degree of hands-on instruction prior to the climb and also have a small, efficient rope team during the summit ascent. Our cramponing, ice axe and rope travel skills training for this climb takes place right outside our tent door on the Sulphide Glacier.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Day 1: Orientation and Hike to Base Camp
7:00 a.m Meet at Sedro Woolley Ranger Station.
The group meets at the Sedro Woolley Ranger Station in the North Cascades. Please see our Travel Details document for driving directions and carpool opportunities. Your RMI guides will meet you at the ranger station for introductions, registration for the climb, group gear distribution and personal gear check.
We then drive to the Mt. Shuksan Trailhead, approx. 2,500', to begin our hike to high camp. For most people this will be the most physically demanding day of the trip as we ascend slowly to an elevation of 6,000' with 45-50 lb packs.
As we move up towards camp we review the foundational skills that make us more efficient and capable climbers. After setting up a solid mountain camp, we are free to relax for the evening.
There are no opportunities to purchase or rent gear in Sedro Woolley. Participants should be confident with the fit and choice of their gear prior to arriving for the program. Please refer to the program Equipment List and then call the RMI office to speak with a guide about any gear questions you may have.
Day 2: The Mountaineering Day School
After breakfast we head out onto the glacier to begin our training. Our Mountaineering Day School offers participants an overview of various techniques which meet the challenges set forth by Mt. Shuksan. We practice basic mountaineering skills including; efficient mountain travel (rest-stepping and pressure breathing), various safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, cramponing, climbing in balance, proper use of our ice axe, self and team arrest, moderate cramponing, movement on rock, short roping and lowering techniques for rock.
Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the School you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the new climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.
After the day of skills training we return to camp where we make our final summit preparations, enjoy dinner, and go to bed early for the next day's climb.
Days 3: The Summit Climb
The summit ascent - Our day begins with a pre-dawn alpine start to give us ample time for this full day of climbing. The Sulphide Glacier is a fun, moderate climb on which we employ our cramponing, route finding and navigational skills, as we make our way around crevasses to the summit pyramid. On our ascent, we climb steadily for one to two hours at a stretch, and then break for 10 to 15 minutes.
The 600 feet of climbing on the summit pyramid constitutes the crux of the climb. Kicking steps and using ice axes for balance, we move up steep snow and make some belayed moves on the 4th and 5th class rock. From the top, we can look north into Canada and south towards Mt. Rainier.
After spending some time on top to enjoy the views and take photos, we begin our descent. We descend the South Face via rappels and belayed down-climbing, then descend the Sulphide Glacier back to camp.
Our descent takes about half the time of the ascent, and also requires significant effort. Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to safely descend is not compromised.
Days 4: Descend to Trailhead
On our last morning we rise early for breakfast, break camp and take three to four hours for the hike back down to the trailhead. The trip concludes with a celebratory lunch in Sedro Woolley. Those with a plane to catch should plan for an arrival in Seattle around mid-afternoon.
The following is a list of equipment required for the program. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.
There are no opportunities to purchase or rent gear in Sedro Woolley. Participants should be confident with the fit and choice of their gear prior to arriving for the program. Please review the list on this page, and call the RMI office to speak with a guide about any gear questions you may have.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick
BACKPACK: A 60+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A separate summit pack is not needed.
SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 20° F will keep you warm. Use the colder bag in May, June and September; and the warmer bag in July and August. You may use either goose down or synthetic.
SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.
Technical Gear Guides' Pick
ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following formula for climbs in the North Cascades: up to 5'8", use a 55-60 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 60-65 cm. axe; and taller, use a 65-70 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should be a few inches below your knee.
CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.
CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well.
TREKKING POLES: Lightweight and collapsible.
RAPPEL DEVICE: A figure eight rappel device is the most versatile as it works with a variety of rope sizes. If you prefer an ATC, ensure that it can handle rope sizes from 6 to 13mm.
60 cm sewn sling
Head
WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.
GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.
BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment.
Hands Guides' Pick
LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.
MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.
Upper Body Guides' Pick
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.
SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.
HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.
DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED JACKET: A synthetic primaloft jacket.
Lower Body Guides' Pick
UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.
CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.
HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT OR SHORTS - OPTIONAL: Good for lower elevations and warm, sunny days.
Feet Guides' Pick
MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Mountaineering specific leather boots are the preferred choices for ascents in the North Cascades. They must provide good insulation as well as a rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Lightweight hiking boots are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather.
GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
2 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.
Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick
LIP PROTECTION
2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
POTABLE AQUA: Water purification for 50 quarts.
2 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
ZIP-LOCK BAG (1 GALLON): Please use the Zip-Lock as your personal trash bag.
TOILET PAPER
EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.
INSECT REPELLANT
CAMERA
Toilet Articles
TOOTHBRUSH
TOOTHPASTE
BABY WIPES
HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.
Utensils Guides' Pick
SPOON or SPORK
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes and anchors, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.
Arrange transportation and lodging.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
On the Four Day Mt. Shuksan Climb you will need three trail lunches, three dinners and three breakfasts.
To plan your meals, check out the following examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.
Breakfast
Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.
Lunch/Snacks
Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.
Dinners
Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. In addition, bring coffee, tea, cocoa or cider to warm you up before bedtime.
Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.
Once we are at camp, ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.
Below are some approximate guidelines that should be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals.
|
Total Hiking Time
|
Elevation Gain / Loss
|
Total Distance
|
Pack Weight
|
| DAY 1 - Hike to Shuksan High Camp | |||
|
4 - 5 Hours
|
Gain = 3,500'
|
4 Miles
|
45 - 50 lbs
|
| DAY 2 - Climbing School | |||
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
| DAY 3 - Summit Climb | |||
|
8 - 10 Hours
|
Gain = 3,125'
Loss = 3,125' |
6 Miles
Round Trip |
20 - 25 lbs
|
| DAY 4 - Descend to Trailhead | |||
|
2 - 3 Hours
|
Loss = 3,500'
|
4 Miles
|
45 - 50 lbs
|
Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.
- Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
- Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
- Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
- Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
- There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
- Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!
This sounds like a lot of work... and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.
For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Getting There
Most climbers will fly into the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport the evening before the program and rent a car for the 1 3/4 hour drive. The town of Mt. Vernon is approximately 76 miles and an hour and twenty minutes from SeaTac depending on traffic congestion. You will find a few more hotel and breakfast options here than in Sedro Woolley. The small town of Sedro Woolley, "The Gateway to the North Cascades", is approximately an hour and forty minutes from SeaTac. Our meeting place is the Sedro Woolley Ranger Station, 810 SR 20 (corner of Highway 9 north and State Route 20) in Sedro Woolley. We meet at 7:00a.m. Click here for driving directions.
Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.
Booking Flights: The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.
Area Accommodations
Spend the night in either Sedro Woolley or the nearby town of Mt. Vernon.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program.
For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
Personal Medical Insurance
We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.
Weather and Route Conditions:
For updated North Cascades weather forecasts, click here. For updated route conditions, click here.
Tipping:
Our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program.
Facts:
North Cascades National Park has over 300 glaciers, more than any other park in the lower 48 states. More than half the glaciers in the 48 states are concentrated in this mountainous wilderness region called the North Cascades.
For more facts click here, and for even more click here.
Resources:
General Information on North Cascades National Park.
North Cascades National Park map.
Communities & Activities outside North Cascades National Park, click here.
Payments:
A deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation. Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send you a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. Balance payments may be made via check or wire transfer only. If your final payment is not received within 90 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.
Cancellations:
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $300 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
Change of Date:
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date. A $100 fee will be charged per person for all date changes made more than 30 days prior to the program.
Risk Management:
Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Climber Responsibilities:
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:
- is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
- honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions:
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international. An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
Participants on Private Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.
General Policies:
RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.
Summit Attempt:
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit of Mt. Shuksan. Weather, route conditions, or your own abilities may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in a refund or reschedule.
Special Circumstances:
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is permitted to operate within North Cascades National Park. Occasionally our teams encounter other climbers, whether guided or non-guided, who need assistance in the form of rescue or evacuation. We are morally obligated to assist these climbers when practical and safe to do so. This rendering of assistance may compromise your program and the possibility exists that your climb may be aborted. While rescues and evacuations occur very infrequently, such situations are beyond our control, and a refund will not be offered.