Forbidden Peak - West Ridge

Day 1: Orientation and Hike to Base Camp

8:00 a.m     Meet at Sedro Woolley Ranger Station.

The group meets at the Sedro Woolley Ranger Station in the North Cascades. Please see our Travel Details document for driving directions and carpool opportunities. Your RMI guides will meet you at the ranger station for introductions, group gear distribution and personal gear check.

We drive/carpool east on Hwy. 20 to the Wilderness Information Center in the town of Marblemount to register for the climb, then continue along the Cascade River Road to the trailhead. During our hike in to Boston Basin we gain approximately 3,000'. The hike through the forest and up into the alpine meadows takes half a day and gets us into camp at 6,200' in time for an early dinner.

Day 2: Training

Our training offers participants an overview of various techniques which meet the challenges set forth by the West Ridge of Forbidden. The snowfields and rock above camp serve as our training ground. As part of our training day we may make an attempt on either Sharkfin Tower or Mt. Torment. Our training will focus on movement skills, belaying and lowering techniques, glacier travel and self care skills.

Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the training you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.

After the day of skills training we return to camp where we make our final summit preparations, enjoy dinner, and go to bed early for the next day's climb.

Day 3: The Summit Climb

The summit ascent - Our day begins with a pre-dawn alpine start to give us ample time for this full day of climbing. The route consists of climbing a small glacier below the South Face and then mid-fifth class rock and 40- to 50- degree snow and ice in the West Ridge Couloir. At the top of the couloir we cache our glacier gear and don rock shoes for the enjoyable mid-fifth class rock climbing along the exposed crest to the summit. From the top the full majesty of the North Cascades are revealed with Mt. Baker to the northwest and views south all the way to Mt. Rainier.

After spending some time on top to enjoy the views and take photos, we begin our descent. We rappel and down climb the ridge, make our way back down the couloir, and then into camp for an early dinner and to watch the sun go down over the peaks to the west.

Day 4: Descend to Trailhead

On our last morning we rise early for breakfast, break camp and take approximately two hours for the hike back down to the trailhead. The trip concludes with a celebratory lunch in Sedro Wooley. Those with a plane to catch should plan for an arrival in Seattle around mid-afternoon.

PACK & BAG

TECHNICAL GEAR

HEAD

HANDS

UPPER BODY

LOWER BODY

FEET

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

PROVIDED EQUIPMENT

PRE-TRIP CHECKLIST

On the West Ridge of Forbidden Climb you will need four trail lunches, three dinners and three breakfasts.

To plan your meals, check out the following examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.

Breakfast

Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.

The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried (Mountain House or Richmoor Natural High), and packaged main-course items (Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, Macaroni & Cheese). There is also a supplement (mashed potatoes, rice or stuffing), cup-o-soup and various hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider), and dessert. Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.

Lunch/Snacks

Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.

Dinners

Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. In addition, bring coffee, tea, cocoa or cider to warm you up before bedtime.

Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.

Once we are at camp, ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.

Previous climbing experience is required for this program. In order to participate, each team member needs to submit a short climbing resume showing, at a minimum the following skills:

• A multi-day mountaineering seminar or the equivalent.
• Familiar with ice axe and crampon use, team rope travel skills, ice axe arrest techniques, crevasse rescue techniques, and belaying.

 

Below are some approximate guidelines that should be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals.

Total Hiking Time	Elevation Gain / Loss	Total Distance	Pack Weight
DAY 1 - Hike to Boston Basin
4+ Hours	Gain = 3,000'	3.5 Miles	45 - 50 lbs
DAY 2 - Training
8 Hours	Gain = 1,850' Loss = 1,850'	2.5 Miles Round Trip	20 - 25 lbs
DAY 3 - Summit Climb
8 Hours	Gain = 2,430' Loss = 2,430'	2.5 Miles Round Trip	20 - 25 lbs
DAY 4 - Descend to Trailhead
3 Hours	Loss = 3,000'	3.5 Miles	45 - 50 lbs

Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.

• Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
• Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
• Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
• Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
• There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
• Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!

This sounds like a lot of work... and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.

For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.

Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.

Getting There

Most climbers will fly into the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport the evening before the program and rent a car for the 1 3/4 hour drive. The town of Mt. Vernon is approximately 76 miles and an hour and twenty minutes from SeaTac depending on traffic congestion. You will find a few more hotel and breakfast options here than in Sedro Woolley. The small town of Sedro Woolley, "The Gateway to the North Cascades", is approximately an hour and forty minutes from SeaTac. Our meeting place is the Sedro Woolley Ranger Station, 810 SR 20 (corner of Highway 9 north and State Route 20) in Sedro Woolley. We meet at 8:00a.m. Click here for driving directions.

Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.

Booking Flights: The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.

Area Accommodations

Spend the night in either Sedro Woolley or the nearby town of Mt. Vernon.

• Mt. Vernon Lodging
• Sedro Woolley Lodging

Travel Insurance

We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program.

For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree

Personal Medical Insurance

We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.

Weather and Route Conditions:

For updated North Cascades weather forecasts, click here. For updated route conditions, click here.

Tipping:

While tipping is by no means required, our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment.

Facts:

North Cascades National Park has over 300 glaciers, more than any other park in the lower 48 states. More than half the glaciers in the 48 states are concentrated in this mountainous wilderness region called the North Cascades.

For more facts click here, and for even more click here.

Resources:

General Information on North Cascades National Park.

North Cascades National Park map.

Communities & Activities outside North Cascades National Park, click here.

Payments

A deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation. Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send you a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. Balance payments may be made via check or wire transfer only. If your final payment is not received within 90 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.

Cancellations

Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $300 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.

We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree

We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).

Change of Date

Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date. A $100 fee will be charged per person for all date changes made more than 30 days prior to the program.

Risk Management

Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

Climber Responsibilities

RMI has a goal of achieving the highest possible success rate while maintaining a significant margin of safety on each program. We recognize that mountaineering is an individual challenge as well as a team endeavor. This puts responsibility on individual climbers. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can negatively impact the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants. For this reason, when signing up for a program, we strongly encourage you to honestly evaluate your fitness. This will allow RMI to suggest the best program for you, and will allow the greatest opportunity for a safe, successful adventure.

Summit Attempt

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, or your own abilities may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in a refund or reschedule.

Special Circumstances

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is permitted to operate within North Cascades National Park. Occasionally our teams encounter other climbers, whether guided or non-guided, who need assistance in the form of rescue or evacuation. We are morally obligated to assist these climbers when practical and safe to do so. This rendering of assistance may compromise your program and the possibility exists that your climb may be aborted. While rescues and evacuations occur very infrequently, such situations are beyond our control, and a refund will not be offered.