Day 1: Orientation and Hike to Base Camp

8:00 a.m     Meet at Sedro Woolley Ranger Station.

The group meets at the Sedro Woolley Ranger Station in the North Cascades. Please see our Travel Details document for driving directions and carpool opportunities. Your RMI guides will meet you at the ranger station for introductions, registration for the climb, group gear distribution and personal gear check.

We then carpool to the Mt. Shuksan Trailhead, approx. 2,500’, to begin our 5 to 7 hour hike to high camp. For most people this will be the most physically demanding day of the trip as we ascend slowly to an elevation of 6,000’ with 50-55 lb packs. The day’s journey will take us through dense forest and gradually into the alpine zone where we cross a mixture of snowfields and talus to arrive at our campsite on the Sulphide Glacier.

As we move up towards camp we review the foundational skills that make us more efficient and capable climbers. After setting up a solid mountain camp, we are free to relax for the evening.

There are no opportunities to purchase or rent gear in Sedro Woolley. Participants should be confident with the fit and choice of their gear prior to arriving for the program. Please refer to the program Equipment List and then call the RMI office to speak with a guide about any gear questions you may have.

Day 2: The Mountaineering Day School

After breakfast we head out onto the glacier to begin our training. Our Mountaineering Day School offers participants an overview of various techniques which meet the challenges set forth by Mt. Shuksan. We practice basic mountaineering skills including; efficient mountain travel (rest-stepping and pressure breathing), various safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, cramponing, climbing in balance, proper use of our ice axe, self and team arrest, and moderate cramponing.

Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the School you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the new climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.

After the day of skills training we return to camp where we make our final summit preparations, enjoy dinner, and go to bed early for the next day’s climb.

Days 3: The Summit Climb

The summit ascent - Our day begins with a pre-dawn alpine start to give us ample time for this full day of climbing. The Sulphide Glacier is a fun, moderate climb on which we employ our cramponing, route finding and navigational skills, as we make our way around crevasses to the summit pyramid. On our ascent, we climb steadily for one to two hours at a stretch, and then break for 10 to 15 minutes. 

The 600 feet of climbing on the summit pyramid constitutes the crux of the climb. Kicking steps and using ice axes for balance, we move up steep snow and make a few belayed moves on the 3rd and 4th class rock. From the top, we can look north into Canada and south towards Mt. Rainier.

After spending some time on top to enjoy the views and take photos, we begin our descent. We descend the South Face via rappels and belayed down-climbing, then descend the Sulphide Glacier back to camp.

Our descent takes about half the time of the ascent, and also requires significant effort. Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to safely descend is not compromised.

Days 4: Descend to Trailhead

On our last morning we rise early for breakfast, break camp and take three to four hours for the hike back down to the trailhead. The trip concludes with a celebratory lunch in Sedro Woolley. Those with a plane to catch should plan for an arrival in Seattle around mid-afternoon.