Intro to Ski Mountaineering
1-888-892-5462
Mount Rainier is one of the premier locations in the world for ski mountaineering, a sport that combines the techniques of ski touring and mountain climbing. This course is for those with previous ski touring experience who would like to gain safe access to mountaineering terrain on skis. Your goal may be to climb a beautiful mountain and then ski down an elegant line, or it may simply be to increase the speed and efficiency of travel while in mountaineering terrain. The skills taught on this course: roped travel, rappelling and belaying, route finding, anchors, crevasse rescue and more, will get you there.
The course is designed to be both fun and safe. The focus will be on training, not skiing "big lines". We do plan on getting plenty of skiing in matched to participants comfort levels.
The Intro to Ski Touring course or equivalent experience is required for participation on the Intro to Ski Mountaineering program. Participants will also need to posses solid intermediate to advanced skiing skills - the ability to comfortably ski moderate ungroomed terrain in ski areas - in order to take part in the program.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Day 1
8:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
We meet at 8:00 a.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA where our first days training will take place. Please dress casually and bring your equipment and clothing. We begin the day with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the day your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics: equipment, Leave No Trace and environmental considerations, mountain hazards and safety, back country navigation, and tour planning. There will be a avalanche awareness refresher and an introduction to avalanche forecasting, and an introduction to basic rope systems used in mountaineering.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Days 2 - 5
7:00 a.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Day 2: After an initial team meeting at 7:00 a.m. our shuttle departs for Paradise at 5,400'. Our camp will be approximately 1,500 feet above Paradise. This camp offers some of the best backcountry skiing in all of Washington. We work out of this camp as we practice our avalanche companion rescue, learn basic mountaineering techniques such as self and team arrest, cramponing and rope travel, and go for a ski tour to make snow stability observations and get in some nice turns.
The day concludes with a mountaineering lecture in the evening.
Day 3: Today we travel on our skis to the different slopes, couloirs and cliffs around camp. We tour from site to site and try our hand at roped travel with skis, rappelling, mountaineering anchors, and introduce crevasse rescue for skiers.
Our evening is spent developing a tour plan to take us to Camp Muir the next day.
Day 4: We ascend to the 10,000' Camp Muir, our camp for the night, following the team's route plan. From this spectacular place we have glaciers, snowfields and a variety of ski mountaineering and training options. For the afternoon we can construct rescue sleds and shelters, practice our skier crevasse rescue, our get some steeper turns in around camp. Maybe all three!
In the evening we discuss further mountaineering topics and develop a tour plan for the next days descent.
Day 5: For the return to Paradise we have a number of ski options based on weather and snow conditions, and they are all downhill! Lot's of turns and teaching opportunities are the plan for our last day when we put the weeks' skills into practice. A shuttle takes our group down to Rainier BaseCamp. After the group gear is unpacked and checked in, we celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates.
The following is a list of required equipment. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.
PACK & BAG

BACKPACK: A 70+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A strapping system to hold your skis is a nice feature.

DAY PACK (OPTIONAL): An optional item for use on the ski tours above camp. It should be large enough to carry food, water, clothing, and rescue gear for the day. A strapping system for carrying skis is a nice feature.

SLEEPING BAG: A contemporary dryloft down bag rated to 0° F. It should provide ample room for movement. Insulation choices are goose down or synthetic. Most guides prefer down, because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is superb, but not mandatory. If a bag gets damp from condensation in a tent, it can be dried outside in camp.

COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG

SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.
TECHNICAL GEAR

AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well.

SKIS WITH AT BINDINGS, TELEMARK SKIS, OR SPLITBOARD: All skis and boards need to have brakes or retention straps.

SKI SKINS

SKI POLES: Adjustable poles are recommended.
HEAD

WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic.

BALACLAVA / NECK GAITER

BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.

GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.

GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.

HEADLAMP

BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment.
HANDS

LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.

MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant ski gloves.

HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
UPPER BODY

BASELAYER: Long-sleeve, light to medium weight wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.

INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.

SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.

HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.

INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.
LOWER BODY

UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.

LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASE LAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.

CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.

HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
FEET

ALPINE TOURING, TELEMARK BOOTS, OR SNOWBOARD BOOTS: Telemark boots flex at the toe for more efficient striding uphill and to allow the "telemark turn" on descent. Telemark boots should be of contemporary plastic design. No leather "Nordic" boots please. Alpine Touring boots are a cross between a downhill ski boot and a hiking boot. AT Boots have rigid, lug soles, and are crampon compatible for climbing steep snow slopes. If renting boots it is recommended that you demo the rentals at your local ski area before taking them on this program. Please call our office to speak with a guide about ski and snowboard boot recommendations.

GAITERS: A pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your ski boots.

2 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.
MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

SUNSCREEN

LIP PROTECTION

MEALS: See Food Recommendations for suggestions and quantities.

2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.

2 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.

ZIP-LOCK BAG (1 GALLON): Please use the Zip-Lock as your personal trash bag.

TOILET PAPER

EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.

CAMERA

TOOTHBRUSH

TOOTHPASTE

BABY WIPES

HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.

REPAIR KIT: Bring a small repair kit with parts specific to your ski or snowboard boots and bindings.

BOWL

2 STRAPS: Voile style ski straps for you carrying your skis and poles, and longer straps for lashing foam pads and tents to the outside of your pack.

INSULATED MUG

SPOON or SPORK
PROVIDED EQUIPMENT
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.
PRE-TRIP CHECKLIST

Purchase travel insurance.

Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.

Arrange Lodging in Ashford.

Purchase airplane tickets.

Arrange Transportation to Ashford.

Reserve rental equipment.

Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
On the Intro to Ski Mountaineering Course you will need four trail lunches, three dinners and three breakfasts.
Mount Rainier Meal Packages
Whittaker Mountaineering has put together meal packages, evaluated by a nutritionist for carbohydrate, protein and fat, for climbing Mt. Rainier. Click here to reserve yours.
Or, to plan your own meals, check out the following examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.
Lunch / Snacks
Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.
Breakfast
Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.
Dinner
Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. In addition, bring coffee, tea, cocoa or cider to warm you up before bedtime.
Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.
Once we are at the Camp Muir hut, ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.
You will find some food items available at Whittaker Mountaineering (freeze-dried meals and energy bars) and BaseCamp Bar & Grill (pizzas, sack lunches, sandwiches, and some snacks).
Mountaineering is considered a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. Physical conditioning is the single most important way you can help to ensure a safe and successful expedition, and it is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape.
Below are some approximate guidelines that should be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals.
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Total Skiing Time
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Elevation Gain / Loss
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Total Distance
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Pack Weight
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| DAY 1 | |||
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n/a
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n/a
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n/a
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n/a
|
| DAY 2 | |||
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3 - 4 Hours
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Gain = 2,000'
Loss = 1,000' |
4 Miles
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40 lbs
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| DAY 3 | |||
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6 Hours
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Gain = 2,500'
Loss = 2,500' |
4 Miles
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20 - 25 lbs
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| DAY 4 | |||
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4 - 6 Hours
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Gain = 4,500'
Loss = 1,000' |
3.5 Miles
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40 lbs
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| DAY 5 | |||
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8 + Hours
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Gain = 1,000'
Loss = 5,500' |
4.5 Miles
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40 lbs
|
Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.
- Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
- Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
- Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
- Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
- There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
- Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!
This sounds like a lot of work and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.
For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.
Getting There
Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA, just six miles from the Southwest Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. Most climbers will fly into the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and rent a car for the two hour drive to Ashford. There is plenty of parking at Rainier BaseCamp. Click here for driving directions.
Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.
Booking Flights: The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
Personal Medical Insurance
We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.
Ashford Area Accommodations
| Whittaker's Bunkhouse | (360) 569-2439 |
| Nisqually Lodge | (360) 569-8804 |
| Jasmer's at Mt. Rainier | (360) 569-2682 |
| Alexander's Country Inn & Restaurant | (800) 654-7615 |
| Guest Services Inc: (Paradise Inn and National Park Inn) | (360) 569-2275 |
| Camping: Cougar Rock | (800) 365-2267 |
| Camping: Big Creek Campground | N.A. |
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You may also go to www.visitrainier.com and check the box next to SW Paradise Area under 'Refine Lodge Listings' for a listing of accommodations in the Ashford area.
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Weather
For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here.
Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:
Tipping
While mountain guiding is a service profession, gratuities are by no means required. If you have a positive experience, and your expectations are exceeded, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment.
Facts
Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. Mt. Rainier, at 14,410', is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is a dormant volcano that last erupted approximately 150 years ago.
Guided mountaineering activity has taken place from the late 1800's, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America and the Himalayas. With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States. Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world. There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and history of climbing there.
Resources
General Information on Mt. Rainier National Park (MRNP)
www.nps.gov/mora
Publications, videos, etc. on the flora, fauna, history, etc. of MRNP
Northwest Interpretive Association - www.nwpubliclands.org
General Mountaineering: publications, videos, etc.
The Mountaineers Book - www.mountaineersbooks.org
Gateway Communities & Activities outside Mt. Rainier National Park
www.visitrainier.com
Recommended Reading
The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar
Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier
Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow
National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map
Payments
A deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. If your final payment is not received within 90 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.
Cancellation:
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $300 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
Change of Date:
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date for a $100 fee per person. There are no date changes allowed less than 30 days before departure.
Risk Management:
RMI guides draw from their reserves of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your program without compromising the necessary margin of safety. Managing risk is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and worse. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge that risk, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
We ask that each participant is physically and mentally fit, is properly attired and equipped, and continues to self-assess throughout the adventure to ensure as safe a program as possible. We ask that participants honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
RMI has a goal of achieving the highest possible success rate while maintaining a significant margin of safety on each program. We recognize that mountaineering is an individual challenge as well as a team endeavor. This puts responsibility on individual climbers. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can negatively impact the experience or opportunity of other climb participants. For this reason, when signing up for a program, we strongly encourage you to honestly evaluate your fitness. This will allow RMI to suggest the best program for you, and will allow the greatest opportunity of a safe, successful adventure for all participants.
Climber Responsibilities:
RMI has a goal of achieving the highest possible success rate while maintaining a significant margin of safety on each program. We recognize that mountaineering is an individual challenge as well as a team endeavor. This puts responsibility on individual climbers. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can negatively impact the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants. For this reason, when signing up for a program, we strongly encourage you to honestly evaluate your fitness. This will allow RMI to suggest the best program for you, and will allow the greatest opportunity of a safe, successful adventure for all participants.
Summit Attempt:
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit of Mount Rainier. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities or the abilities of others may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Your program fee entitles you to one summit attempt of Mount Rainier on your specified dates. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, rescues, etc.) are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If adverse weather or route conditions prevent your entire party from reaching Camp Muir, you will receive a $300.00 credit for another Summit Climb during the current calendar year. Individuals who are unable to reach Camp Muir or complete their program will not receive a refund.








