1-888-892-5462
Crevasse Rescue School
1-888-892-5462
Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:
$180
1 day(s)
Skills
Our one-day introduction to crevasse rescue techniques focuses on preparing climbers for glacier travel. Highly experienced and talented guides facilitate your learning of the key skills needed for team- and self-rescue.
- Setting up a rope team for effective glacier travel
- Proper placement of snow anchors
- Building C-pulley and Z-pulley raising systems
- Complete rescue scenario simulations
- Crevasse site safety
- Crevasse self-rescue
These critical crevasse rescue skills are must-know topics for all mountaineers, and especially for climb leaders. In this course various rescue problems will be presented and solved as a group, with the objective of being able to perform effective and efficient crevasse rescue in the mountains. It is recommended that you are familiar with ice axe arrest and basic rope travel skills. This is an excellent refresher or supplementary course for anyone wanting to learn crevasse rescue techniques. We look forward to sharing an exciting and educational day with you.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Day 1: The Crevasse Rescue School
7:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Check-in at 7 a.m. Team assembles in preparation for the day.
Please arrive dressed for hiking, packed with your Crevasse Rescue School gear, and ready to go.
We begin the morning with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Guides will offer some final packing and clothing suggestions, and answer any questions.
We depart BaseCamp immediately following our initial preparation. Transportation is provided between BaseCamp and Paradise, where your training begins. The entire day is spent training on the lower snow slopes of Mt. Rainier, just above Paradise between 6,000 and 6,600 feet.
Once at the training area instruction will focus on snow anchors (pickets, bollard construction, "dead-man" anchors, etc.), anchor equalization, belays, use of prussic slings, mechanical ascenders and the "C" and "Z" pulley systems. In addition, various problems and considerations of team rescue will be practiced and discussed.
Following the day of training, the shuttle takes our group back to Rainier BaseCamp.
The following is a list of required equipment. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick
Technical Gear Guides' Pick
ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.
CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
MECHANICAL ASCENDER (OPTIONAL)
24 ' PERLON CORD: 6 mm cordelette
15 ' PERLON CORD: 7 mm cordelette
Head Guides' Pick
GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.
Hands Guides' Pick
LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.
MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.
Upper Body Guides' Pick
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.
HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.
Lower Body Guides' Pick
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.
CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.
HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT OR SHORTS - OPTIONAL: Good for lower elevations and warm, sunny days.
Feet Guides' Pick
MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice for ascents on Mt. Rainier. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather mountaineering boots that have completely rigid soles are also adequate, but they will need to be insulated and may still result in cold feet on summit day. Lightweight hiking boots without insulation are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather.
GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
1 SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.
Miscellaneous Items
2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
ZIP-LOCK BAG (1 GALLON): Please use the Zip-Lock as your personal trash bag.
CAMERA
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: climbing ropes and blue bags (for solid waste disposal). Every guide will carry a first aid kit and two-way radios.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.
Arrange Lodging in Ashford.
Arrange Transportation to Ashford.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
Mount Rainier Meal Packages
Whittaker Mountaineering has put together meal packages, evaluated by a nutritionist for carbohydrate, protein and fat, for climbing Mt. Rainier. Click here to reserve yours.
Or, to plan your own meals, check out the following examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.
LUNCH SNACKS
Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.
You will find some food items available at Whittaker Mountaineering (freeze-dried meals and energy bars) and BaseCamp Bar & Grill (pizzas, sack lunches, sandwiches, and some snacks).
Mountaineering is considered a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. Physical conditioning is the single most important way you can help to ensure a safe and successful expedition, and it is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape.
Below are some approximate guidelines that should be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals.
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Total Hiking Time
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Elevation Gain / Loss
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Total Distance
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Pack Weight
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| DAY 1 | |||
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2 - 2 ½ Hours
Round Trip |
Gain = 1,000'
Loss = 1,000' |
4 Miles
Round Trip |
20 - 25 lbs
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Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.
- Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
- Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
- Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
- Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
- There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
- Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!
This sounds like a lot of work and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.
For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.
Getting There
Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA, just six miles from the Southwest Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. Most climbers will fly into the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and rent a car for the two hour drive to Ashford. There is plenty of parking at Rainier BaseCamp. Click here for driving directions.
Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.
Booking Flights: The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
Personal Medical Insurance
We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.
Ashford Area Accommodations
| Whittaker's Bunkhouse | (360) 569-2439 |
| Nisqually Lodge | (360) 569-8804 |
| Jasmer's at Mt. Rainier | (360) 569-2682 |
| Alexander's Country Inn & Restaurant | (800) 654-7615 |
| Guest Services Inc: (Paradise Inn and National Park Inn) | (360) 569-2275 |
| Camping: Cougar Rock | (800) 365-2267 |
| Camping: Big Creek Campground | N.A. |
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You may also go to www.visitrainier.com and check the box next to SW Paradise Area under 'Refine Lodge Listings' for a listing of accommodations in the Ashford area.
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Weather
For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here.
Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:
Tipping
While mountain guiding is a service profession, gratuities are by no means required. If you have a positive experience, and your expectations are exceeded, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment.
Facts
Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. Mt. Rainier, at 14,410', is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is a dormant volcano that last erupted approximately 150 years ago.
Guided mountaineering activity has taken place from the late 1800's, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America and the Himalayas. With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States. Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world. There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and history of climbing there.
Resources
General Information on Mt. Rainier National Park (MRNP)
www.nps.gov/mora
Publications, videos, etc. on the flora, fauna, history, etc. of MRNP
Northwest Interpretive Association - www.nwpubliclands.org
General Mountaineering: publications, videos, etc.
The Mountaineers Book - www.mountaineersbooks.org
Gateway Communities & Activities outside Mt. Rainier National Park
www.visitrainier.com
Recommended Reading
The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar
Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier
Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow
National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map
Payments
Full payment secures your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, or check.
Cancellation:
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $50 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
Change of Date:
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date for a $25 fee per person. There are no date changes allowed less than 30 days before departure.
Risk Management:
RMI guides draw from their reserves of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your program without compromising the necessary margin of safety. Managing risk is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and worse. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge that risk, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
We ask that each participant is physically and mentally fit, is properly attired and equipped, and continues to self-assess throughout the adventure to ensure as safe a program as possible. We ask that participants honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
RMI has a goal of achieving the highest possible success rate while maintaining a significant margin of safety on each program. We recognize that mountaineering is an individual challenge as well as a team endeavor. This puts responsibility on individual climbers. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can negatively impact the experience or opportunity of other climb participants. For this reason, when signing up for a program, we strongly encourage you to honestly evaluate your fitness. This will allow RMI to suggest the best program for you, and will allow the greatest opportunity of a safe, successful adventure for all participants.