5 Day Emmons Climb

Day 1: Pre-Trip Orientation

3:00 - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.

We will meet at 3:00 p.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. We begin our Pre-Trip Preparation and Training with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the afternoon your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, and instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations.

Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.

Day 2 - 5: The Summit Climb

7:00a.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.

Day 2: After an initial team meeting at 7:00 a.m. a shuttle takes our group to the trailhead at the White River Campground (4,400 feet). Our adventure begins with a beautiful 3.3 mile hike through mature forests from White River Campground to the Glacier Basin Camp (6,000 feet). As we move up towards camp we review the foundational skills that make us more efficient and capable climbers. We establish our first mountain camp at the very edge of the forest.

Day 3: Shortly above this camp we rope up to gain access to the Inter Glacier, and then climb over the flanks of Steamboat Prow onto the Emmons Glacier. As we make the ascent to our high camp, Camp Schurman (9,440 feet), we begin to navigate through the immense crevasses for which this route in known. The grandness of the upper mountain route now rises directly above us. Once at Camp Schurman, we have a great arena for the preparation for our summit bid.

Day 4: With an early alpine start on day three, we make our attempt on the summit. The Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route climbs the northern edge of the largest glacier in the lower 48 states, the Emmons Glacier. A spectacular 35-degree central ramp of the glacier offers a corridor by which we are able to access the crevassed slopes of the upper mountain. We skillfully thread our way through these great crevasses toward Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier!

The summit of Mt. Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bare ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410 feet, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top (depending on the weather), we begin the descent to high camp. This takes about half the time of the ascent, and requires definite effort. (Be sure that your training specifically includes preparation for descending.  This will help ensure that your ability to safely descend is not compromised.) Our group returns to Camp Schurman for the evening.

Day 5: The final day of the program is spent descending our route from High Camp, and returning to the trailhead. Our shuttle takes us to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford. Plan on arriving back in Ashford in the late afternoon. After the group gear is unpacked and checked in, we celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates.

The duration of the climb depends on many variables including snow conditions, time of year, route conditions, weather during our climb, temperatures, etc.  We do not recommend scheduling an airline flight before midnight on the last day of your climb.

Video Courtesy of Climber David Chau

PACK & BAG

TECHNICAL GEAR

HEAD

HANDS

UPPER BODY

LOWER BODY

FEET

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

PROVIDED EQUIPMENT

PRE-TRIP CHECKLIST

Mount Rainier Meal Packages

Whittaker Mountaineering has put together meal packages, evaluated by a nutritionist for carbohydrate, protein and fat, for climbing Mt. Rainier. Click here to reserve yours.

Or, to plan your own meals, check out the following examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.

Lunch / Snacks

Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.

Breakfast

Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.

Dinner

Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. In addition, bring coffee, tea, cocoa or cider to warm you up before bedtime.

Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.

Once we are at the Camp Muir hut, ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.

You will find some food items available at Whittaker Mountaineering (freeze-dried meals and energy bars) and BaseCamp Bar & Grill (pizzas, sack lunches, sandwiches, and some snacks).

Previous climbing experience is required for this program. In order to participate, each team member needs to submit a short climbing resume showing, at a minimum the following skills:

• Familiar with crampon use, team rope travel skills, and ice axe arrest techniques.
• A minimum of one previous glacier climb.

Mountaineering is considered a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. Physical conditioning is the single most important way you can help to ensure a safe and successful expedition, and it is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape.

Below are some approximate guidelines that should be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals.

Total Hiking Time	Elevation Gain / Loss	Total Distance	Pack Weight
DAY 1
n/a	n/a	n/a	n/a
DAY 2
2 - 3 Hours	Gain = 1,600'	3.3 Miles	50 - 60 lbs
DAY 3
3 - 4 Hours	Gain = 3,400'	2 Miles	50 - 60 lbs
DAY 4
12 + Hours Round Trip	Gain = 5,000' Loss = 5,000'	8 Miles Round Trip	20 - 25 lbs
DAY 5
3 Hours	Loss = 5,000'	5.3 Miles	50 - 60 lbs

Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.

• Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
• Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
• Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
• Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
• There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
• Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!

This sounds like a lot of work and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.

For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.

Getting There

Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA, just six miles from the Southwest Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. Most climbers will fly into the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and rent a car for the two hour drive to Ashford. There is plenty of parking at Rainier BaseCamp. Click here for driving directions.

Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.

Booking Flights: The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.

Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.

Travel Insurance

We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree

Personal Medical Insurance

We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.

Ashford Area Accommodations

Weather

For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here.

Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:

• Paradise view towards the Tatoosh Range
• Paradise view towards Mt. Rainier

Tipping

While mountain guiding is a service profession, gratuities are by no means required. If you have a positive experience, and your expectations are exceeded, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment.

Facts

Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. Mt. Rainier, at 14,410', is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is a dormant volcano that last erupted approximately 150 years ago.

Guided mountaineering activity has taken place from the late 1800's, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America and the Himalayas.  With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States.  Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world.  There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and history of climbing there.

Resources

General Information on Mt. Rainier National Park (MRNP)
 www.nps.gov/mora

Publications, videos, etc. on the flora, fauna, history, etc. of MRNP
Northwest Interpretive Association -   www.nwpubliclands.org

General Mountaineering: publications, videos, etc.
The Mountaineers Book - www.mountaineersbooks.org

Gateway Communities & Activities outside Mt. Rainier National Park
www.visitrainier.com

Recommended Reading

            The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar

            Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier

            Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow

            National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map

Payments

A deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. If your final payment is not received within 90 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.

Cancellation:

Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $300 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.

We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree

We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).

Change of Date:

Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date for a $100 fee per person. There are no date changes allowed less than 30 days before departure.

Risk Management:

RMI guides draw from their reserves of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your program without compromising the necessary margin of safety. Managing risk is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and worse. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge that risk, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

We ask that each participant is physically and mentally fit, is properly attired and equipped, and continues to self-assess throughout the adventure to ensure as safe a program as possible. We ask that participants honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.

RMI has a goal of achieving the highest possible success rate while maintaining a significant margin of safety on each program. We recognize that mountaineering is an individual challenge as well as a team endeavor. This puts responsibility on individual climbers. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can negatively impact the experience or opportunity of other climb participants. For this reason, when signing up for a program, we strongly encourage you to honestly evaluate your fitness. This will allow RMI to suggest the best program for you, and will allow the greatest opportunity of a safe, successful adventure for all participants.

Climber Responsibilities:

RMI has a goal of achieving the highest possible success rate while maintaining a significant margin of safety on each program. We recognize that mountaineering is an individual challenge as well as a team endeavor. This puts responsibility on individual climbers. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can negatively impact the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants. For this reason, when signing up for a program, we strongly encourage you to honestly evaluate your fitness. This will allow RMI to suggest the best program for you, and will allow the greatest opportunity of a safe, successful adventure for all participants.

Summit Attempt:

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit of Mount Rainier. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities or the abilities of others may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Your program fee entitles you to one summit attempt of Mount Rainier on your specified dates. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, rescues, etc.) are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.

If adverse weather or route conditions prevent your entire party from reaching Camp Muir, you will receive a $300.00 credit for another Summit Climb during the current calendar year. Individuals who are unable to reach Camp Muir or complete their program will not receive a refund.