1-888-892-5462
5 Day Kautz Climb
1-888-892-5462
Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:
$1575
5 day(s)
Mountaineering
| August 14 | FULL |
The Kautz route ascends a classic line on the south side of Mt. Rainier and is a great adventure for climbers ready for a more technical climb. This is an intermediate level program for climbers in great physical condition with knowledge of mountaineering techniques and previous climbing experience. If you have climbed Mt. Rainier before and are looking for another mountaineering adventure on this northwest volcano this is the perfect climb. The five days consist of a Pre-Trip Preparation and Training day and four days of expedition style climbing, camping and load carrying.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Day 1: Pre-Trip Orientation
3:00 - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
We will meet at 3:00 p.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. Note: Whittaker Mountaineering Rental Equipment is available for pick up after 12 p.m.
We begin our Pre-Trip Preparation and Training with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the afternoon your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, and instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Day 2 - 5: The Summit Climb
7:00a.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Day 2: Check-in at Rainier BaseCamp. Team assembles in preparation for the climb. After a short team meeting, the shuttle departs for Paradise, and our climb begins.
We hike from Paradise (5,400') across the Nisqually Glacier. As we move up towards camp we review the foundational skills that make us more efficient and capable climbers. We establish our first mountain camp between 6,000' - 8,000'.
Day 3: We move to our High Camp at the western edge of the Turtle snowfield between 9,400' - 10,500'. Prior to our summit attempt, we focus on the skills and preparation necessary for a successful ascent, and pay extra attention to the techniques required for current conditions on the upper mountain. After dinner we will get into our tents early to rest for the upcoming summit attempt.
Day 4: Today we put it all together and make our attempt on the summit. The spectacular 35- to 50- degree Kautz ice chute, pouring through the ring of icecliffs above 11,000 feet, starts the ascent. This is an enjoyable and challenging climbing. The route climbs steeply for several hundred feet to access the crevasses of the upper Kautz and Nisqually glaciers leading to the summit. We may utilize running belays or fixed lines for this part of the ascent, as dictated by the route conditions. The upper slopes of the mountain then take us through numerous crevasse fields to the summit of the mountain.
The summit of Mt. Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bare ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410 feet, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top (depending on weather), we begin the descent to High Camp. This usually takes about half the time of the ascent, and requires definite effort. (Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to descend is not compromised.) We return to High Camp for our final night on the mountain.
Day 5: The final day of the program is spent descending our route from High Camp, and returning to Paradise. Our shuttle will then take the team down to Rainier BaseCamp. Plan on arriving back in Ashford in the late afternoon. After the group gear is unpacked and checked in, we celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates.
The duration of the climb depends on many variables including snow conditions, time of year, route conditions, weather during our climb, temperatures, etc. We do not recommend scheduling an airline flight before midnight on the last day of your program.
The following is a list of equipment required. Our philosophy is to prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick
BACKPACK: A 90+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. It is imperative that your backpack is large enough and tough enough to handle the load. A separate summit pack is not needed.
SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 20° F will keep you warm. Use the colder bag in May, June and September; and the warmer bag in July and August. You may use either goose down or synthetic.
SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.
Technical Gear Guides' Pick
ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
ICE HAMMER:A second technical ice climbing tool of 50 - 55 cm will be needed.
CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.
CRAMPONS: The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well.
TREKKING POLES: Lightweight and collapsible.
Head
WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm, but thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.
GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.
BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment.
Hands Guides' Pick
LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.
MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.
HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
Upper Body Guides' Pick
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.
SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.
HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.
INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.
NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT (OPTIONAL): Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves is nice for July and August. Long sleeve is preferred for sun protection.
Lower Body Guides' Pick
UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.
LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.
CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.
HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT OR SHORTS - OPTIONAL: Good for lower elevations and warm, sunny days.
Feet Guides' Pick
MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Insulated plastic boots are the preferred choice for ascents on Mt. Rainier. They provide the best insulation as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps and holding crampons. Leather mountaineering boots that have completely rigid soles are also adequate, but they will need to be insulated and may still result in cold feet on summit day. Lightweight hiking boots without insulation are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather.
GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
2 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.
Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick
LIP PROTECTION
2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
TOILET PAPER
EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.
CAMERA
Toilet Articles
TOOTHBRUSH
TOOTHPASTE
BABY WIPES
HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.
Utensils Guides' Pick
SPOON or SPORK
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, group cooking gear, shovels, climbing ropes, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.
Arrange Lodging in Ashford.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Arrange Transportation to Ashford.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
Mount Rainier Meal Packages
Whittaker Mountaineering has put together meal packages, evaluated by a nutritionist for carbohydrate, protein and fat, for climbing Mt. Rainier. Click here to reserve yours.
Or, to plan your own meals, check out the following examples and suggestions of the types of food that work well.
Lunch / Snacks
Your "lunches" are taken in the field throughout the day during short 10 to 15 minute breaks. We suggest crackers, pizza, candy bars, jerky, chips, cookies, trail mix, fruits, Gu, energy bars, and hard candies. Drink mixes such as Gatorade and Kool-Aid help flavor your water. Add peanut butter, cream cheese, hard cheese, or pepperoni for additional calories and taste. If you enjoy bread items, bagels work well. Include some salty snacks to replenish lost salts.
Breakfast
Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.
Dinner
Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. In addition, bring coffee, tea, cocoa or cider to warm you up before bedtime.
Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.
Ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.
You will find some food items available at Whittaker Mountaineering (freeze-dried meals and energy bars) and BaseCamp Bar & Grill (pizzas, sack lunches, sandwiches, and some snacks).
Previous climbing experience is required for this program. In order to participate, each team member needs to submit a short climbing resume showing, at a minimum the following skills:.
- Familiar with crampon use, team rope travel skills, and ice axe arrest techniques.
- A minimum of one previous glacier climb.
Mountaineering is considered a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. Physical conditioning is the single most important way you can help to ensure a safe and successful expedition, and it is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape.
Below are some approximate guidelines that should be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals.
|
Total Hiking Time
|
Elevation Gain / Loss
|
Total Distance
|
Pack Weight
|
| DAY 1 | |||
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
n/a
|
| DAY 2 | |||
|
2 - 3 Hours
|
Gain = 1,600'
|
3.3 Miles
|
50 - 60 lbs
|
| DAY 3 | |||
|
3 - 4 Hours
|
Gain = 3,400'
|
2 Miles
|
50 - 60 lbs
|
| DAY 4 | |||
|
12 + Hours
Round Trip |
Gain = 5,000'
Loss = 5,000' |
8 Miles
Round Trip |
20 - 25 lbs
|
| DAY 5 | |||
|
3 Hours
|
Loss = 5,000'
|
5.3 Miles
|
50 - 60 lbs
|
Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.
- Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
- Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
- Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
- Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
- There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
- Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!
This sounds like a lot of work and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.
For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.
Getting There
Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA, just six miles from the Southwest Entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. Most climbers will fly into the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and rent a car for the two hour drive to Ashford. There is plenty of parking at Rainier BaseCamp. Click here for driving directions.
Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to our Message Board, then to "Carpool and Ride from Airport" and post your information.
Booking Flights: The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
Personal Medical Insurance
We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.
Ashford Area Accommodations
| Whittaker's Bunkhouse | (360) 569-2439 |
| Nisqually Lodge | (360) 569-8804 |
| Jasmer's at Mt. Rainier | (360) 569-2682 |
| Alexander's Country Inn & Restaurant | (800) 654-7615 |
| Guest Services Inc: (Paradise Inn and National Park Inn) | (360) 569-2275 |
| Camping: Cougar Rock | (800) 365-2267 |
| Camping: Big Creek Campground | N.A. |
|
You may also go to www.visitrainier.com and check the box next to SW Paradise Area under 'Refine Lodge Listings' for a listing of accommodations in the Ashford area.
|
|
Weather
For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here.
Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:
Tipping
While mountain guiding is a service profession, gratuities are by no means required. If you have a positive experience, and your expectations are exceeded, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment.
Facts
Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. Mt. Rainier, at 14,410', is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is a dormant volcano that last erupted approximately 150 years ago.
Guided mountaineering activity has taken place from the late 1800's, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America and the Himalayas. With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States. Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world. There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and history of climbing there.
Resources
General Information on Mt. Rainier National Park (MRNP)
www.nps.gov/mora
Publications, videos, etc. on the flora, fauna, history, etc. of MRNP
Northwest Interpretive Association - www.nwpubliclands.org
General Mountaineering: publications, videos, etc.
The Mountaineers Book - www.mountaineersbooks.org
Gateway Communities & Activities outside Mt. Rainier National Park
www.visitrainier.com
Recommended Reading
The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar
Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier
Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow
National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map
Payments
A deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. If your final payment is not received within 90 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.
Cancellation:
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $300 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 60 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 60 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your travel agent.
AIG Travel Guard
International Health Insurance
Erin Rountree
We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
Change of Date:
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 30 days prior to your departure date for a $100 fee per person. There are no date changes allowed less than 30 days before departure.
Risk Management:
Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Climber Responsibilities:
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:
- is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
- honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions:
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international. An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
General Policies:
RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.
Summit Attempt:
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit of Mount Rainier. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities or the abilities of others may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Your program fee entitles you to one summit attempt of Mount Rainier on your specified dates. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, rescues, etc.) are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.