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Five Day Kautz Climb
Itinerary
We will meet at 3:00 p.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. We begin our Pre-Trip Preparation and Training with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the afternoon your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations, a discussion of mountain medicine, and a practical demonstration of various climbing skills. This helps prepare us for our climb of Mt. Rainier, and increases the likelihood of a safe, successful ascent of the mountain. Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Day 2: Check-in at Rainier BaseCamp. Team assembles in preparation for the climb. After a short team meeting, the shuttle departs for Paradise, and our climb begins. We hike from Paradise (5,400’) across the Nisqually Glacier. As we move up towards camp we review the foundational skills that make us more efficient and capable climbers. We establish our first mountain camp between 6,000’ – 8,000’. Day 3: We move to our High Camp at the western edge of the Turtle snowfield between 9,400’ – 10,500’. Prior to our summit attempt, we focus on the skills and preparation necessary for a successful ascent, and pay extra attention to the techniques required for current conditions on the upper mountain. After dinner we will get into our tents early to rest for the upcoming summit attempt. Day 4: Today we put it all together and make our attempt on the summit. The spectacular 35- to 50- degree Kautz ice chute, pouring through the ring of icecliffs above 11,000 feet, starts the ascent. This is an enjoyable and challenging climbing. The route climbs steeply for several hundred feet to access the crevasses of the upper Kautz and Nisqually glaciers leading to the summit. We may utilize running belays or fixed lines for this part of the ascent, as dictated by the route conditions. The upper slopes of the mountain then take us through numerous crevasse fields to the summit of the mountain. The summit of Mt. Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bare ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410 feet, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top (depending on weather), we begin the descent to High Camp. This usually takes about half the time of the ascent, and requires definite effort. (Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to descend is not compromised.) We return to High Camp for our final night on the mountain. Day 5: The final day of the program is spent descending our route from High Camp, and returning to Paradise. Our shuttle will then take the team down to Rainier BaseCamp. Plan on arriving back in Ashford in the late afternoon. After the group gear is unpacked and checked in, we celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates. The duration of the climb depends on many variables including snow conditions, time of year, route conditions, weather during our climb, temperatures, etc. We do not recommend scheduling an airline flight before midnight on the last day of your program.
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1-888-892-5462 • info@rmiguides.com |
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