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Route Information
Rainier Update
On April 17th, 2008, guides Chad Peele, Tyler Jones and myself, Seth Waterfall, along with four RMI clients summitted Mt. Rainier via the Ingraham Glacier Direct Route. Overall this route is in good shape presently. Our climbing time was 4 hours 55 minutes from Camp Muir to the summit.
Here is a breakdown of conditions on particular parts of the route:
Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats:
We traversed the Cowlitz Glacier, climbing to the bottom of Cathedral Gap. On the Cowlitz we did not encounter any crevasses and had very good snow for walking in crampons. Climbing Cathedral Gap was entirely on snow. Again we had very good snow for walking. Our boots did not penetrate further into the snow then our ankles which allowed us to make very good progress to our first break at Ingraham Flats.
Ingraham Flats to Elevation 12,500 feet:
After leaving the flats we encountered our first crux of the climb. The steep headwall of the Ingraham Glacier was fairly broken at about 11,600'. Here we negotiated several crevasses, snow-bridges and steep bulges for approximately 500 vertical feet. As the angle of the glacier eased back we walked to the side of a large debris pile left by what must have been a large
serac collapse. When we gained the elevation of the top of Disappointment Cleaver we turned to the east and rested on a flat spot at approximately elevation 12,500 feet.
12,500 feet to 13,600 feet:
From 12,500' to approx. 13,600' we made several large switchbacks aiming directly for the summit. We did not encounter one single crevasse on this stretch. The snow here was highly wind-affected and alternated between styrofoam-like and consolidated powder. This again made for excellent climbing conditions.
13,600 feet to 14,410 feet:
From our last break to the summit we encountered slightly firmer snow than lower on the mountain and some small crevasses. Although we did encounter some crevasses there were several options for crossing each one and thus we did not have to change our course towards the summit. The route is surprisingly direct considering what it has been like the last two years. Many variations could be taken from elevation 12,500' to the summit. Overall it was a very enjoyable climb on a very good route.
Seth Waterfall
Senior Guide
Photos from the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter April
13-18, 2008
Guides Seth Waterfall & Tyler Jones checking out
the route
 Training
near the Beehive around 11,000 ft.
Looking toward the Tatoosh Range, Mt. Adams in
the background
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