Disappointment Cleaver
Route
Our route
begins with a rising traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier, and ascends
the steepening switchbacks of Cathedral Gap. This allows us to gain the
Ingraham Glacier; one of the mountain’s largest and longest glaciers. We
then climb onto the steep ridge known as Disappointment Cleaver, the
namesake and physical crux of the route. The remaining slopes and hours
are whittled away as we zig and zag through the many crevasses of the
upper mountain. It is truly a spectacular climb, and one that you are
likely to remember for a while to come.
Click here for RMI's Disappointment Cleaver Programs:
4 Day Summit Climb or
5 Day Summit Climb
Emmons Glacier
Route
The Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route climbs the northern edge of the
largest glacier in the lower 48 states, the Emmons Glacier. The
spectacular 35-degree central ramp of the glacier offers a corridor
by which we are able to access the crevassed slopes of the upper
mountain. We skillfully thread our way through these immense
crevasses toward Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mount Rainier!
Click here for RMI's Emmons Programs:
5 Day Summit Climb or Expedition Skills Seminar
Kautz Glacier Route
We begin our climb at Paradise (5,400’) and cross the Nisqually Glacier
to a spectacular first mountain camp at 6,000’. The following day we
move to our high camp at the western edge of the Turtle Snowfield
between 9,400’ – 10,500’. Finally, the 35- to 50-
degree Kautz ice chute, pouring through the ring of icecliffs above 11,000
feet, is enjoyable and challenging climbing. There, the route climbs steeply
for several hundred feet to access the crevasses of the upper Kautz and
Nisqually glaciers leading to the summit.
Click here for RMI's Kautz Programs:
5 Day Summit Climb or
Expedition Skills Seminar