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Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Abort Antisana Summit Bid at 18,000’

Post Antisana. Hmmmm? It is hard to put into words how a body feels after running full speed ahead for 36 hours without sleep. I take that back, we did close our eyes from 7 to 10 pm last night but if you asked anyone to tell you about their dreams they will half heatedly recount how their tent partner and the thought of eating instant oatmeal at 10:30 pm was more of a nightmare. So sleep was hard to come by. Once "awake", we forced down what calories we could and loaded our climbing kits into the jeeps. From base camp it was a 20-minute 4x4 trail to the starting point. Like all the other mountains down here the first hour starts with a dirt trail before gaining the toe of the glacier. We all did so about 1am and despite this being our second big climb in a row, everyone showed good spirit and stamina. For the next three hours we crossed spectacular crevasse bridges, cramponed up steep pitches and weaved through giant ice features. At 18,000 feet, we took a break to search out the final piece of the route finding puzzle which ended at the summit ridge. Once the ridge is gained it is a straight forward climb to the top. Unfortunately there was nothing straight forward about the terrain from our position to the ridge. With a mandatory 55-degree slope exposed to a crevasse below and having very tricky snow conditions, the risk of taking our team into that terrain was just too high. So it was here I decided to turn the climb around. The good news was, up to that point everybody climbed really well and said unanimously that Antisana was one of the coolest mountains they have ever been on. After a safe descent we rested at camp for a couple hours then took the magic bus to a hacienda for some much needed food, beer and rest. Tomorrow we are off to our final and most challenging mountain, Chimborazo. Stay tuned for the next chapter. Adam and team wishing all of our loved ones back home big hugs. We can't wait to come home and see you. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Comments (1)

Antisana sounds like a heart pumping adventure!  It really is a day to day puzzle, isn’t it!  I can’t wait to hear Justin describe this trip from a medical point of view.
Sending the team the best of wishes for another exhilarating and safe climb.  Thanks for sharing!!!

Sharon and Tim Halls

Posted by: Sharon Halls on

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