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Denali Expedition: Meet RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team

Awakening to blue skies we were ready to carry to 13,500', but, unfortunately, the winds picked up suddenly at the top of Motorcycle Hill and we were forced to bury our load there and retreat to the protection and comfort of camp. The weather taught us some valuable lessons about taking care of ourselves, lessons that will do us well later in the trip as we get higher on the mountain. As I've mentioned before, we do have a pretty cool team. Perhaps I'll share a brief sketch of the individuals on this team. I'll start with an incredibly impressive lady who's palmares in mountain climbing outshines most of our accomplishments. And her ability to handle the outrageous loads this climb demands rivals climbers half her age. Oh, she/we hope this summit will be her 50th. Another member who shares 'senior' status with the aforementioned climber comes from Vermont and is no stranger to cold, harsh conditions. He hasn't been fazed by any of the weather challenges and has handled the climbing like a rock star! No surprise though - I've climbed with him before and reached the summit with his step daughter on this mountain a few years ago. A climber very dear to my heart, and a favorite of us all, hails from England, and is here with me for the second time. Having not reached the summit the first time, he's back for more. Such a kind-hearted, nicer person you will never meet, and he's more comfortable with the mountain this time around. He is the type of person who makes you feel good to be around him. We have a couple from Colorado who climbed with me last fall on Rainier. She is amazingly strong, and weighing in at half the weight of some of my climbers, she has still been able to do her part in load carrying and always manages to greet the day with a huge smile.Her other half has the strength of two men, and the energy that knows no bounds. Always helping out with camp chores, we have to sometimes rein him in so he doesn't make us guides look like slackers. Another couple climbed with me two years ago, but could make this trip happen last year, so here they are. We've really needed to help her come out of her shell here (NOT). She's a dynamo, and I remember her strength two years ago. I think she's even stronger now, as evident in the guns she's sporting for quads. Her husband balances her outgoing nature so nicely, and it's fun watching them together. he has trained incredibly hard, unwilling to be outdone by his partner. In fact, when there is trail breaking to do, I put him right behind me in the hardest spot. Our last member I remember meeting as I passed one of our Alaskan seminars that take place on the mountain. And now he's here, doing it. Sometimes a bit quieter than the others, he constantly impresses me with strength and ability. Apparently, he's sporting a battery of electronics, but the guy can definitely handle it. He works for Samsung, so I guess it just makes sense. And then there are the guides: On his first trip here, JT is rocking it! Always working and asking great questions, he's guiding like a seasoned pro. Great in difficult situations, he's been great company in the tent too. On our second trip together, Christina has been nothing but exceptional. A joy to be around, she also knows the ins and outs of these climbs and I rely upon her for tying together all the details that makes the expedition run so well. Then there's me. Just a simple guy that likes walking uphill and bore you with details of life here on the mountain. I'll try not to be so long winded next time. Good night from 11,200'. RMI Guide Brent Okita

Comments (5)

Hi Bill!

Been lots of fun following your trip, makes me want to get back there for sure. Sounds like you’ve got a great group and are climbing strong (of course!). Knee is doing well, taking my stitches out was an adventure and school is busy. Enjoy these rest days, an extra day to acclimatize is never bad although I’d imagine you’re also eager to keep moving. I know you’re good at taking care of yourself when the weather turns! Have lots of fun! And tell Brent I say hi!!
Love K

Posted by: Kristen Kelliher on

I love your emails…..the longer the better….Look forward to and enjoy them everyday!  Thanks for sharing!
Stay safe and a great big “miss you” to Lindsay and Steve!

Posted by: Sandra Friaglia on

Brent , I look forward to your emails every day. I wish you all the Best!!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on

Hi Dad,
It seems like you guys are doing great so far. So happy for you! You asked for an update on how NEIRA’s went. We were seeded fifth (highest a Hanover boat has ever been seeded). We had Salisbury and Exeter in our heat. The race played out just like the Tabor one. Started down on the whole field. Started moving at the halfway mark. Passed Hingham, (who we raced when we beat Tabor), Simsbury and Brookline(not sure if it was Brookline). Exeter won, Salisbury was second and we got third by .3 seconds. Rather frustrating as the top two boats moved on to Grande finals. We got third in Petites as well. We beat Tabor, which was good, but lost to Andover and Brunswick by .5? seconds. It was very close the whole race. The seniors were kind of disappointed because we had hoped to make the Grande Final, but happy because we did a lot better than we did last year. I hope this is number 49 for you, it looks like all your weekend hikes paid off. We are missing you at home, but happy that you have this opportunity. Good luck!
PS: I will give you another update after Hanover Invitational, we will hopefully win by a lot. Love, Billy
Hi Bill….really do miss you a lot! But no stitches or broken bones so far, so I guess we are doing pretty well. Danny did really really well on his math test…...Ryan moved about 30 wheelbarrow loads of compost into the garden….and I hope the 80 basil plants will go in tomorrow! Plan to eat 1/2 cake in your honor Tuesday 5/30! Love you, M.
Daddy, you are awesome! Love, Danny

Posted by: Billy, Danny, Mom and Grammy on

Ardel, sounds like carrying the pack on the treadmill is paying off.  We hope the winds calm and the snow stays firm. Climb High.

Posted by: David Zeps on

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