Vinson Expedition: Cifelli & Team Wait out the Weather at High Camp, Describe Sights and Sounds of Antarctica
December 2, 2024 - 12:41 pm PT
The first thing you notice about Antarctica, as you look out the airplane window anxiously anticipating your arrival, is the scale. The scale of Antarctica is infinite. Snow, ice, mountains and clouds seemingly go on forever.
Then you notice the colors of Antarctica. The colors of Antarctica are equally enticing, but they are few - only the endless white and the brilliant blues. The pure white ice and snow that cover this grand continent interrupted only by the the hints of blue tinting the cracks in the glaciers when the sun hits them just right, the natural blue ice runway, and the vast blue sky. (This of course ignores the spectrum of bright primary colors in the climbers’ down coats, tents and other gear that pepper the landscape, but those are not the natural colors of Antarctica.)
Then you notice the sounds of Antarctica. The sounds of Antarctica are many, and they are distinct. Each step on the ice in our mountain boots and crampons delivers a high-pitched squeak, like pieces of styrofoam being rubbed together - squeak, squeak, squeak - so loud it’s impossible to have a conversation while walking. Each plant of our poles similarly punctuates every step with an exclamation mark. The sound of Dominic firing up our camp stove is similarly unique. The roar of the white gas igniting like a miniature jet engine summoning us to our cozy mess tent for hot drinks.
And the melodic chatter coming from the tents of the Chinese contingent we are sharing high camp with, matched by the friendly sing-song of Anja’s voice greeting us each day - “good morning” - wishing us a nice meal - “bon appetite” - or singing us a German lullaby before bed.
But the most distinctive and telling sound of all is the howl of the wind. And boy does it howl. The howl tells us it’s cold, very, very cold. And, unfortunately, for the last two nights starting in the early hours of the morning the relentless howl has clearly and triumphantly announced that we would not be climbing today. That we would remain at high camp, confined to our cramped tents for another day. That the summit would have to wait. The howl is the gatekeeper to our adventure. So here we are again today - our third day at high camp - relying on our creativity to pass the time. Meeting other climbers from around the world and chatting with them for as long as you can stand the biting cold, shivering in front of the stack of squeaky styrofoam ice blocks arranged to give a hint of privacy while you try to poop into a plastic bag before you get frostbite in places you had never before worried about getting frostbite. Or laughing and telling stories of our prior adventures in the mess tent over cups of hot chocolate. Or listening to a podcast, concerned the entire time you’re wasting valuable battery life that will cost you pictures of the summit when we get there tomorrow, or the next day, or the next day …
RMI Climber Chris Lind
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Comments (2)
Bravo, Cifelli & Team. Prayers & Good Vibes flying down south to your successful climb to the summit. You are all amazing especially our man from Cork, Myles O’Neill.
From Judy in Wicklow, Ben in Dublin and Sam in Rome.
Posted by: Judith Lee on
Hey Vinson Team,
Rooting for you all, especially my uncle Myles. Such an amazing adventure - do it for the rest of us who are too scared too!!
Eva :)
Posted by: Eva Walsh on