Mt. McKinley Expedition: Luedtke & Team Wait for Nightfall to Descend to Airstrip, Weather Permitting
Posted by: Ben Luedtke, Mike Bennett, Avery Stolte
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, June 28 - 9:15PM PST
Sleep came easily for most of us last night. What had been a few hours at 17 was closer to 10 at 14, and we rolled like cats in the sun when Ben called us to breakfast at a leisurely 9am.
Rations have run low, and breakfast burritos are a distant memory. Faced with the choice between granola, oatmeal, and mountain house meals we swore to never eat again we chose freeze-dried, splitting biscuits and gravy and a breakfast scramble.
Kitchens are gathering places the world round, and here is no different. We lingered around the warm stoves and laughed about memories from the summit.
Soon it was noon and we gathered all of our remaining rations for a picnic lunch. Some were down to shredded pop tarts, others *cough Jimmy* still had ten pounds of food to spare. We traded, tasted, and Mike hoarded pounds of candy for the hopeful hike out.
Then games, music, movies and laughs as the snow gently drifted through the tent door. Ben told us the hope is to hike out through the night, but we’ll have to see about the weather.
That uncertainty has become the mark of this mountain and our trip.
There were a half dozen times as we pushed to the summit that Ben almost turned around. Avalanche risks were a-plenty, even 150 feet from the summit. If we did turn, that would have been the right decision.
So we could hike out tonight, or tomorrow. There may be more avalanche risk, or there may not. Our bodies could feel strong, or weak. The winds may be calm, or pick up. The glacier could be frozen when we cross overnight, or it may have cracks that add hours to rain at the airfield until the clouds clear.
This could be our last day eating gas station food, or it may be longer than that. As I turn 40 this year that’s the thing I keep thinking about - delays.
Many of us fashion our lives to take the straight line from this to that. We’re at 14 camp and thinking about Talkeetna. I often want to be someplace other than here.
The lesson I’m being invited to learn is that all of life is here in front of me. What’s more, the interruptions and detours are not only the spice but the substance of life.
(Please know - there is also tragedy, suffering, and injustice unequally distributed in the world. Those things aren’t fair and shouldn’t be wished on anyone).
But I do wish bad weather, on me and on you. That’s what refines our character, holds us still while our roots grow deep, and leads us from comfort to greater adventure. It can’t always be sunny out, we equally need the night.
I guess what I’m saying is that, while I need a summit (or airfield) as a heading, I want my heart to be where my feet are, especially when it’s not what I would have chosen.
That's the only way I would have learned that crampons can be trusted on ice. It’s how, as a 100-degree-Texan, I learned that life in the snow isn’t what I feared and that cloud cover keeps us warm. As an only-child and introvert, I learned that I can live in a tent the size of an elevator with two grown men for 20 days.
We should celebrate when life goes well and smoothly (like our first week here). And when our flight’s canceled, business slows, relationship ends, or we feel adrift I hope to remember that the interruptions, storms, and false summits have a gift that I wouldn’t find any other way That’s doubly true when you have a friend, sibling, spouse, climbing partner, or fellow guide to find the mystery in the moment.
I’m excited to get home, and grateful it will take a few more days than we expected.
- RMI Climber Hudson
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, June 9, 2026
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Mt Rainier: Five Day Climb Turns due to High Winds
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Comments (3)
So great to read this. Hudson your gift of writing can still be seen even at 17. Hugs and prayers.
Posted by: Karen Jordan-Markham on
Guide Hudson! You’re moving up in the world. Really beautifully put and so glad you all are headed home safely. Eagerly awaiting tales of adventure from the top
Posted by: Pattie on
Thanks for the update - wishing you all a safe return to the airstrip! So well stated, life is full of adventures, many not how we planned but those do make us stronger! Stay safe and cant wait to hear about the journey!
Posted by: Aunt Sandy & Sas on