Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings from Huaraz!

We have arrived to the Andean capital of climbing after our standard eight-hour bus ride from Lima. Everyone is doing great and growing in excitement to get into the range soon. The highlight of the day was to see the Cordillera Blanca as clear as it could be from about two hours out, on a strategic bus stop; a few gasps of amazement were audible.
Tomorrow we’ll start our acclimatization process with a morning hike on the surrounding hills, to be continued by a packing session before hitting the trails for good the next morning.

That’s it for now from Huaraz,

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Settled into 11K Camp for an Extended Stay

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday June 28th 10:22 pm PT

Once again, the weather was a little sloppy in the early hours, so we didn’t get out of the tents until the civilized hour of 7AM.  It was still pretty well socked in at 9,500 ft as we ate breakfast, but things seemed workable for moving up.  We were on the go by 10:00 and in our new camp at 11,000 ft by 1PM.  The clouds cleared from time to time, giving us some great views of the end of the West Buttress.  Luckily, clouds hung in there enough to keep the sun off the final steeper hills into camp.  We dug in and got settled in our new home.  It is a relief, after building four camps in four days, to know that we’ll get to stay in this one for a few days.  The afternoon and evening were spent resting and sorting food and gear.  If possible, we’ll do a carry to 13,500 ft tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Teams Unable to Summit

Posted by: JJ Justman, Tyler Jones | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

The lightning storm prevented the Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams from reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  RMI Guide JJ Justman reported that the teams turned at 11,400’ to seek shelter at Camp Muir.
Their plan is to descend from Camp Muir around 8:30 am PST.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

 

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Hey guys, I woke up about 12:30 to the sound of thunder at the Bunkhouse. I sat on the picnic table and watched the light show while hoping you would… read more

Posted by: kelly gaddis on 6/29/2015 at 12:26 pm

I bet you all had quite a show.  Stay safe!

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Posted by: Gillian on 6/29/2015 at 7:17 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 5:18pm PST

Resting here at 14 after a big day yesterday. Clouds and sunshine are in and out along with the occasional bout of flurries. Nothing major to report. Now that we are poised and ready we are just playing a chess match against the weather. Hoping to get that window that will take us to the summit...

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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Thoughts are with you as you push for High Camp…go team.

Doug - “A world without dragons is a world not worth living in.”  ― R.A. Salvatore, Streams of Silver

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Posted by: Belladonna on 6/29/2015 at 1:04 pm

Enjoy your adventure…live your dream

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Posted by: Jeff Dunfield on 6/29/2015 at 12:39 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back In Talkeetna

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:15 am PT

It was touch and go at base camp. We woke up to clouds and some very wet snow. As expected, as soon as we started to fire up the stoves to make breakfast and hot drinks, the skies started to open just a bit. I still didn’t think that the weather was flight worthy, but I was glad that the pilots did. We were told that we had 20 minutes to be packed and ready because the planes were already approaching. We were ready in 10! We got the first half of our team onto a plane and off the glacier before the weather started to sock back in. We had to wait for the first plane to go back to Talkeetna, drop off our first group of climbers, and then return. Luckily the weather cleared back up a bit and we squeaked out the rest of the climbers for the amazing flight back to the world of great food and pillows. After a couple of great meals and a series of showers, the now legendary “El Siete” crew is fresh, semi-recovered, and ready to be reintroduced into society. 

Thank you to the group for being such a great team and for all of the families and friends that have supported us.

RMI 7 “El Siete”

The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen

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  I want to say, once again, to Mike Haugen about these daily posts and pictures: it has meant so much to the families of these fine climbers. Thank you,… read more

Posted by: Chris on 6/28/2015 at 5:06 pm

  Whoopee! So glad to have you off the mountain safe and secure at last. Doug is that you standing to the left? I can see everyone is proud and… read more

Posted by: Chris on 6/28/2015 at 5:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry to High Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 12:20 am PST

Big day today… In spite of the forecast for 6-12” of new snow to fall today we awoke to partly cloudy skies, sun breaks, and only occasional flurries. Our long-shot plan to carry was a reality. We got rolling and packed up loads of supplies for High Camp and after a quick breakfast we made moves for the headwall and the fixed lines. After a few growing pains the team hit their stride and were able to put a cache in all the way up at high camp. The need for a back-carry could have hamstrung us on our move but since we cached at camp we are sitting pretty, waiting for our summit attempt weather window to open up. We’re planning on a rest day tomorrow and then it’s game on. We’re a tired bunch but we know that today’s hard work will pay off.

All for now!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita

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beard looks good on you !

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Posted by: MARK AND HELEN WALSH on 6/29/2015 at 5:14 am

Hard work paying off indeed team - rest and be ready!

Doug - “If the sky could dream, it would dream of dragons”
-Llona Andrews, Fate’s Edge

Stay… read more

Posted by: Belladonna on 6/28/2015 at 10:28 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 9,500’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'

June 27, 2015 10:32 pm PST

We intended to get stirring by about 2:30 this morning, but to no one’s disappointment, that didn’t happen.  It was socked-in and cloudy then with wettish snow in the air.  Likewise at 3 AM, not so good, and not at 3:30 either.  But then things started looking up.  We got up just after five and were climbing by 8:45.  Conditions were once again great for climbing.  With snowshoes on, we stayed right on the snow surface, as did our sleds.  Without too much trouble, we got up “Ski Hill” and hit our intended camp at 9,500 ft around noon.  By then we were in the clouds again and light snow was falling, but we’d gotten high enough to make things cold and so wetness was no longer a problem.  The team all pitched in admirably to build a new camp and then retreated for afternoon naps.  It was burrito night in the POSH tent where we were comfortably seated on snow benches out of the weather. 
We’ll see about moving up to 11,000’ tomorrow if folks are feeling good and the weather gives a break. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection

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not enuff blog not enuff pics! the suspense of the venture is killin us

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Posted by: kathie grengs on 6/29/2015 at 9:31 am

For Gary Ross/Team 4 (Hahn Team):

Gary - Take the “Top of the Line” to the Top of Denali.

Rangers Lead The Way!!!!!!!

Chip Sniffin / Executive Director, Sherpa Support… read more

Posted by: Chip Sniffin on 6/29/2015 at 7:24 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit on Top with 100% of Team

Posted by: Brent Okita | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita and all of his climbing team were descending from the Mt. Rainier’s crater rim at 6:33 am PST.  Brent reported good conditions with some high clouds and winds 15-20 mph.  The team will return to Camp Muir, repack and then continue their descent to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to the entire Summit Climb team!

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Thank you Brent, for wonderful memories, stories to share and a safe return.

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Posted by: Kelly Gaddiss on 6/29/2015 at 12:30 pm

Congrats Dad!I knew you would make it up just find with all the skills I’ve been teaching you. Mom is doing just fine. Get home safe!
Love Adam

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Posted by: Adam Brown on 6/28/2015 at 2:46 pm


Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Summit Cotopaxi

Posted by: Mike Walter | June 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 19,348'

We stood on top of Cotopaxi this morning! Our windy adventures in Ecuador continued yesterday and into this morning. Hiking to the climbing hut we battled 30 mph winds, which continued through the evening. When I woke up to check the weather at 11 pm it was windy but clear. I woke the team up at midnight and we had an alpine start breakfast and prepared to climb. By the time we left, clouds were intermittently blowing in and out. During the first hour of our climb a very humid cloud moved in that dampened our outer layers, which then turned to ice. The wind persisted, so did we. Climbing higher, our clothes began to wear a layer of rime ice as we fought with the wind to maintain good posture and climb efficiently. Clouds would come and go (mostly come) throughout our climb, but the wind would not relent. It made the ascent very difficult and also very cold. Our breaks were shorter due to the weather, but the team climbed strong and toughed it out. We reached the summit around 6:45 am, five hours and fifteen minutes after we set out (which, by the way, is a fast pace for Cotopaxi). The summit views were obscured by clouds so we didn’t spend much time up top. Did I mention it was windy?

The descent was smooth and now we’re all resting at the historic Hosteria La Cienega in Lasso, Ecuador, near the south entrance to Cotopaxi National Park. We’ll enjoy a well earned dinner here tonight, and a good night’s sleep with a leisurely wake up call before heading back to Quito tomorrow.

The summit of Cotopaxi was a heck of a way to end our two week volcano tour on the Ecuador Seminar. We’ll check in again tomorrow from Quito.

Saludos,
RMI Guide Mike Walter

Cotopaxi as seen from the Jose Ribas Refugio. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Seminar team with Cotopaxi in the background. Photo: Mike Walter

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Was it windy?

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Posted by: Tiina on 6/27/2015 at 7:23 pm


Mt. Baker: Grom & Team Summit

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson | June 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'

RMI Guides Casey Grom and Chase Nelson and team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the North Ridge. Casey checked-in from the summit reporting a great route, strong team, and beautiful weather with a steady breeze.

Congratulations!

An RMI climber ascending the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, WA. Photo: Eric Frank

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Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen
  • Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cotopaxi as seen from the Jose Ribas Refugio. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Seminar team with Cotopaxi in the background. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI climber ascending the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, WA. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Tents covered in snow at McKinley Base Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi, Ecuador. Photo: RMI Collection
  • A stormy day at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, AK for an RMI Team. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Traversing off Disappointment Cleaver on Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Ecuador Seminar enjoys a rainbow seen from Illiniza Norte, Ecuador, acclimating climb. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI team traveling across the Polo Fields, Mount McKinley, back to 11K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cache at Windy Corner, Mount McKinley, with climbers in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Views of the Cassin Ridge on Mt. McKinley as an RMI team flies into Kahiltna Base. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • K2 lands at Kahiltna Base on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Katy Reid
  • Dave Hahn and team pose for a photo at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The June 23rd McKinley Expedition ready to board the plane. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Talkeetna Ranger Station mountain stats. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn's team pre-trip meeting with the National Park Service. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Weighing and sorting gear at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • An RMI team ascending from Denali's 11,000' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection