Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Snow Day at High Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Thursday, July 2, 2015 - 3:15 pm PT

RMI Guide Mike King called the RMI Office from high camp at 17,200 ft on Mt. McKinley. The team spend a snowy and windy night at camp last night. Today they spent the day resting and drying their gear. The team has received the forecast for tomorrow and are hoping the weather will allow them to make a summit attempt. If the weather permits, they will be heading up hill.

We wish the team luck!

An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

3

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Acclimate on Rucu Pichincha

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 15,696'

We had a successful day today, with everyone climbing strong to reach the summit of Rucu Pichincha (~15,700 ft) on our first acclimatization climb in country. We had great weather with perfect temperatures for climbing, and good views throughout the day.

After a quick cab ride from our hotel, we rode the gondola to ~13,500 ft and then began climbing up the flanks of Rucu. The well graded trail eventually gave way to some steeper switchbacks and then some 3rd class scrambling to the summit.

It was a high altitude record for many of our climbers. We hope to keep breaking those records over the next few days once we get onto Cayambe and Cotopaxi.

Tomorrow morning we’ll pack up and leave Quito, heading north for another acclimatization climb up the ancient volcano Fuya Fuya.

Thanks for checking in. We’ll keep you up to date.
RMI Guide Mike Walter

The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter

On The Map

Sign Up For Ecuador 2015 Email Alerts


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs & Emmons Seminar Climbers on Summit!

Posted by: Eric Frank, Solveig Waterfall, Kel Rossiter | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams enjoyed clear blue skies and warm temperatures.  RMI Guide Kel Rossiter led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons to the summit via the Emmons Glacier route.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

1

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Take a Snow Day At 11,200’ Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JM Gorum, Steve Gately | July 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

July 2, 2015 12:36 am PST

This day didn’t start out all that bad, but then it didn’t waste too much time getting bad.  It got snowing about an inch an hour by mid morning.  That didn’t stop some of our neighbors from picking up and moving to 14K anyway, but it stopped us.  We didn’t want to risk getting caught at Windy Corner when the wind started.  So it was a quiet day for us, sitting in our tents listening to the snow.  Just about right in the middle of a nice dinner in our beloved POSH tent, a cannon shot of wind hit and ripped the shelter nearly in half.  We sat for a few minutes more anyway, chowing down, looking out the big new vent and wondering who’d be first to abandon ship.  Then it was a mass exodus back to the tents for what promised to be a windy, snowy, stormy night on Denali.  We’ll figure out a different plan for our cooking and dining shelter needs. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

3

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Retreat from 18,500’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

July 1, 2015 6:25 pm PST

Hey, it’s Billy here checking in from 17,200’ on Denali.  We are back in camp after our foray up the Autobahn and around the corner on Denali Pass but it was quite windy. The wind along with zero visibility and blowing snow and some wind slab instability conspired to shut down our summit attempt.  So we turned tail at just above 18,500 feet and everyone is back down in camp, in one piece safe and sound.  We’re trying to regroup and figure out what the future holds for us. We’ll check in tomorrow and let you know we’re up to you.

All for now.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann


RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 17,200 ft on Mt. McKinley

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

9

Peru Seminar: Elias and Team Check in From Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Good evening from Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley! We’re settling in for the night, an early bed time, as tomorrow we’ll have our first semi alpine start of the program. Today was spent reviewing the fitting and use of our equipment (the name of the game has been proclaimed as “we’ll be the most pro-looking team on the mountain”) followed by a thorough review of the knots and hitches we’ll use on this trip. A gourmet lunch by our cook Emilio, (fresh trout and quinoa soup) gave us the energy we needed to take a stroll to “Ishinca Cocha”, the glacial lake perched 1,000 ft above camp, and to continue to stimulate our bodies in the acclimatization process. Stay tuned for more!

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

Sign Up For Peru 2015 Email Alerts


Ecuador Volcanoes:  Mike Walter and Team Arrive in Quito

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador

Our Ecuador Volcanoes team has all arrived in Ecuador without complications. We started our first morning in country with a team breakfast and then departed on a city tour of the historic, colonial are of Quito and a trip to Mitad del Mundo (literally the middle of the world), or the Equator.

We had good views of our climbing objectives, Cotopaxi and Cayambe, from El Panecillo, a hill in southern Quito that looks out over the city. From there we toured around “old town” Quito, visiting churches, parks, and the presidential palace, all while learning about the rich cultural history of Ecuador.

The last stop on our trip was to the equator, where we visited an ethnographic museum. In addition to information and exhibits about the many different cultures of Ecuador, we stood on the equatorial line, with one foot in the northern hemisphere and one in the southern.

We’re headed out for a team dinner before getting some rest in preparation for our first acclimatization hike of the volcano Rucu Pichincha, which sits on the flanks of Quito. We’ll check in tomorrow to let you know how our first venture into very high altitude goes. Thanks for checking in!

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

Mike Walter and Team checking out the Equator. Photo: Mike Walter

Sign Up For Ecuador 2015 Email Alerts


Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Arrive at Their Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Greetings from the Ishinca Valley! We’re writing from our base camp, at 14,400ft, right at the foothills of our first two objectives; Nevados Ishinca and Urus. We left our hotel this morning in Huaraz, and an uneventful bus ride took us to the sunny village of Pashpa, where we met our pack of donkeys and their gentle drivers. Four hours of hiking through a forest of quenuales (the Andean staple tree) took us to the open meadow where camp sits. Everyone hiked in pretty good style! Our first day of training starts tomorrow, and everyone is looking forward to move further uphill soon!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

Sign Up For Peru 2015 Email Alerts


Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Pete Van Deventer | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies, with warm temperatures and a light breeze.  The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am PST. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens made a sunset climb last night and reached the crater with 100% of their team.

All three teams will descend to Paradise today and return to Ashford to conclude their programs.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

5

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Weather Day at 17,200’ Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Tuesday June 30th 6:00 pm PT

Hey there, this is Billy checking in from 17,000 feet on Denali. We woke up this morning and actually almost pull the trigger.  The weather was looking really good. But then things kind of soured a little bit. Thin clouds with intermittent snow, and so we eventually pulled the plug on our summit attempt before we really got it going. We’re having a weather day today. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow. That’s all for now. Bye.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from 17,200ft on Mount McKinley.

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

4

Previous Page More Entries

Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mike Walter and Team checking out the Equator. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Peru Seminar team from the hills above Huaraz. Photo: Robby Young
  • Huaraz, Peru, as seen from the RMI team's acclimating hike. Photo: Robby Young