Mt. Everest: Hahn & a Sherpa Team Explore Midway Through the Icefall

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

This is Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest expedition. Sorry to leave you hanging last night. We didn’t get a dispatch out before all the power shut off and all of our forms of communication ended. It has been a stormy week here, so not quite as much solar gain as we would have hoped. Systems all through the valley are running on short time that way. Cell service, internet service, all of that was being affected by the storm. We’re doing okay here. We tried to get up the Icefall yesterday morning, the Sherpas and myself, but it was not to be. We, along with perhaps 70 other Sherpas from other teams got turned around where the route has collapsed during the storm, natural movement of the glacier. The route needed some maintenance- some ladders put back in place. So without even getting to the midpoint of the Icefall, we were turned around, brought everything back down. Hoping to go up with conditions improve. Still storming here. Still windy up high, still cloudy. We are down at Base Camp today.  I’ll try to get a real dispatch out this evening. Bye now.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in with an update.

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Wishing the team clear weather and safety through the icefall.

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Posted by: Brendon on 4/17/2015 at 11:40 pm


Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Reaches 12,300’

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken | April 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter reached 12,300 feet on Mt. Rainier before being dead-ended by a crevasse. Despite the crevasse, the team has been enjoying excellent weather on the upper mountain. The team will descend back to Camp Muir for the night where they will continue their skills training.

The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. Everest Expedition: Ground Hog Day

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Once again, we (the Sherpa team and guides) were ready to go up through the icefall on a recon mission.  Once again we nipped it in the bud at three in the morning due to falling snow and cloaking clouds.  The clouds were still thick as clam chowder when the team assembled for breakfast.  That didn’t stop us from gearing up and going for a walk in the new snow for an hour or so along the route to just where things get steep and serious at the base of the Khumbu Icefall.  It was eerie and beautiful to have the giant towers and walls of ice drifting in and out of our view as we trudged quietly through the snow.  Out in front in the whiteout, it was nearly impossible to tell anything as to whether the next step would be up or down or sideways, but we managed to find the route by braille in any case.  The goal was to get some exercise and some more practice and -as much as anything- to occupy the mind in what could be construed as dull circumstances.  There is still a blanket of snow over everything and so hiking Pumori’s ridges (as we’ve done to reach both Pumori Camp One and Kalapathar) doesn’t seem wise, what with shallow powder over uneven rock.  We passed the afternoon playing games and monkeying around with internet/3G connectivity.
Tomorrow, for sure… up and at ‘em.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Dave - really enjoy reading your daily updates, and as always love the photos when there are some posted.  Wishing you and your team the best at the best, and… read more

Posted by: Mary on 4/17/2015 at 4:51 am

Hi Larry, JJ, Dave and Team ... We are reading your blogs everyday.  Keep your spirits up ... As we know you most certainly are!  Fred K

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Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 4/16/2015 at 5:29 pm


Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Enjoying Post Storm Sun

Posted by: Brent Okita, Seth Waterfall, Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 6,200'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Seth Waterfall spent yesterday training on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier. The team experienced stormy conditions with 5 - 6 inches of new snow overnight and some mild wind.

Today, the team is breaking camp and making their way uphill towards Camp Muir where they will continue their technical training. While breaking camp, the team enjoyed bluebird skies and beautiful mountain views.

The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
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Enjoy the climb. I was there on the same type climb with Brent and Elias in April of 2012. Lots to learn. Have fun. I am headed to the Alaska… read more

Posted by: John Newland on 4/16/2015 at 9:35 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave Hahn Checks in From Base Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Hello this is Dave Hahn with RMI’s Everest Expeditions calling in.  I promise I wrote a nice dispatch but lost connectivity before sending it to you, so we’ll have to do a voice dispatch. It’s all good here. It’s snowing lightly, it’s been snowing since about mid-day but just lightly.  We are still holding on to the hope that the Sherpas and one or two of the guides might get up in the morning for a scouting trip through the Ice Fall.  Of course that is weather dependent as always.  Today the team went over their gear, trying to streamline their systems for climbing fixed ropes. They checked out their down suits trying to get a little bit more familiar with that gear.  Our Sherpa team did the same.  Fairly quiet day, nobody else is going through the Ice Fall either a few people nibble at the base of the route today just stretching their legs and working their technique.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Everest Base Camp.

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Chheuring letting it flow and looking great as always! Sending good weather wishes your way. Miss you all! xo

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Posted by: Erin on 4/16/2015 at 7:04 am

  Happy Thurs from 600’ of elevation in Indiana Larry + JJ / team…Sounds like a Weather Prayer is a good idea - OK you got it :)...Waltero…Enjoying the dispatches…Say… read more

Posted by: Waltero on 4/16/2015 at 4:22 am


RMI Guide Alex Barber Checks in From Annapurna Base Camp

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Tuesday, April 14, 2015 8:54 pm PT

I am still in Base Camp waiting out a period of unstable weather. About half a meter of snowfall so far at Annapurna Base Camp with more forecast over the next few days. During a break in the weather, a Base Camp wide snowball fight erupted for about 20 minutes, too much pent up energy around here!

RMI Guide Alex Barber

Panorama of Base Camp with Annapurna being the left most peak.  Photo: Alex Barber
1

What a beautiful, desolate place.  Enjoy the journey!!  Wishing you a very successful trip.  :)

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Posted by: Mary on 4/16/2015 at 5:57 am


Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Wait Another Day Due to Snow

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest Expedition. We are without internet this evening, due to forces beyond our control. We are doing fine. It was another waiting day. There was still all of that snow on the ground from the bigger storm and the threat of more falling, but in the end we didn’t get that much more today. It was pretty cloudy. Our team went for a climb to the face of the the steep part in the icefall, so we went about an hour to an hour and a half breaking trail to the start of the technical sections in the icefall. We made a good morning of it, and taking it easy this afternoon mostly at camp as we wait and see.  Nobody wants to push up through the icefall right now with that possibility for more snow coming. We may have to do a similar program tomorrow- hiking, exercise, training, and then will hope to hit the icefall the following day. At least Sherpas and guides going up to preview it, but that that doesn’t seem worthwhile at the moment, but another day or two, we’ll see. Everybody is doing well. We’ll let you know what happens. Thanks.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

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Patience is a virtue….

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Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/15/2015 at 5:01 am

Nice to hear your voice live from Everest Base Camp.  Bet some of the men are going through a mini Internet withdrawal.  I won’t mention any names….haha.  Glad you are… read more

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/14/2015 at 2:00 pm


RMI Guide Alex Barber With an Update from Annapurna

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 14, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Today I carried more gear and food to Annapurna Camp 1 as more bad weather approached. While climbing today I noticed icefall avalanche activity was quite frequent. So far Annapurna has been relatively quiet, hopefully this isn’t a sign of permanent change. As I arrived at Camp 1 around noon it was snowing steadily with low visibility. My plan had been to go all the way up to Camp 2, but the weather was so uncertain at Camp 1 that I decided to drop the equipment at Camp 1 and head back down. Currently I’m at Base Camp sitting out this spell of bad weather.

Tentbound… again

I had considered going directly to Camp 2 today to attempt a possible summit push on the 15th. But the 15th (possibly a decent day at 8,000 meters) is sandwiched between loading events (significant snowfall). The unstable weather looks to persist until the 18th.

General Mtn news: Camp 3 was hit by an avalanche a few days ago, two teams had cached oxygen bottles and other items there a while back. All these items were swept away. The nine-day weather forecast does not look promising. Heavy snowfalls, then some clearing but with high winds. I’m hoping the forecast will change to something more promising in the next few days.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

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I thought you lost communications for a while.  I was getting ready to contact RMI’s main office for a rescue request.  :)

You did pick one of the more challenging… read more

Posted by: Mary on 4/15/2015 at 7:27 am

Thanks for the updates, Random Fan TJ Hiker

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Posted by: TJ on 4/14/2015 at 9:03 pm


Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Have a Snow Day

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

The snow began falling about the time we got into our sleeping bags last night.  It didn’t quit.  When we poked heads out for a look-see around 3:30 AM, it was still piling up pretty good, and so there wasn’t any consideration given for going ahead with the icefall plan for the day.  Back to bed and wait and see, was the plan.  It had snowed about a foot by breakfast.  The gang assembled and we spent the day biding our time.  We didn’t have great conditions for walking with powder snow over uneven rock and ice.  The clouds and flurries hung in all day.  We could hear and occasionally see puja ceremonies going on at the camps around us.  All-in-all it was a quiet day of waiting.  We’ll see what tomorrow brings. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman

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PMR,  like the beard, true mountain man look!! 

Ken

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Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/13/2015 at 9:30 pm

Larry,
An oven, was that really an oven in JJ’s picture? Amazing…
Glad your getting some good food and company up there. Love you!

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Posted by: Debbie Worden on 4/13/2015 at 7:58 pm


Mt. Everest: Team Takes a Day Off

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

It was shower day for the climbing team.  This was our designated “day off” so that all could get a good night’s sleep without any nervousness about what might be demanded of another training/climbing day.  It seemed to do the trick… we all showed up late for the pre-breakfast coffee and tea session.  There was a pretty good procession of old friends and fellow guides coming to say hello and exchange radio frequencies today.  Climbing teams are now pouring in, the Puja flags are going up everywhere and brightly colored tents are blossoming in every direction.

We’ll make our first push through the icefall tomorrow… Sherpas and guides, at least.  Our goal will be to check out the route and to establish Camp 1 at close to 20,000 ft.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection

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Peter we miss you and love you and hope you are doing well! I love the email updates and look forward to them!  Wishing you and the rest of the… read more

Posted by: Chelsea Hall on 4/13/2015 at 1:16 pm

Larry S - hope your back is much better and you can go forward with the team. So proud of you and all you have accomplished in your lifetime from… read more

Posted by: gerri seaton on 4/13/2015 at 8:20 am


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Aconcagua Expedition
12/20/2014 - 1/12/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
12/27/2014 - 1/19/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
1/10 - 1/24/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/4 - 1/27/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
1/6 - 1/19/2015
Cayambe - 17,000' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Ecuador's Volcanoes
1/20 - 1/30/2015
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/11 - 2/3/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
1/24 - 2/7/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/18 - 2/10/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/3 - 2/16/2015
Cayambe - 16,500' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/26 - 2/18/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'

Recent Images

  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Panorama of Base Camp with Annapurna being the left most peak.  Photo: Alex Barber
  • Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection
  • Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection
  • Views along the trail to Kalapathar- hike from Everest BC.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Dave Hahn leading the way to Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The 2015 RMI Everest team at Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Grom & Team celebrate at Baskin Robbins in Kathmandu, Nepal. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The 2015 Everest Icefall Doctors- Stout ladder load. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI Guide and Everest BC Manager, Mark Tucker, crushing the ball. Photo: JJ Justman
  • An RMI team playing golf at Everest BC. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The Everest team training in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team practices with crampons on ladders. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team training on fixed ropes in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team's training day on fixed rope. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Climbers walking through the streets of Lukla.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The views while hiking to Pumori Camp One.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Enjoying the views from Pumori Camp One.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Looking over Namche Bazaar.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Puja Ceremony for the 2015 RMI Everest Climbing team.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Enjoying the friendship and camaraderie at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The 2015 RMI Everest Expedition post Puja ceremony. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Island Peak from Pheriche, Nepal. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Island Peak's Headwall, Nepal. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Annapurna Base Camp to Camp 1. Photo: Alex Barber
  • Annapurna Camp 1 to Camp 2. Photo: Alex Barber
  • Annapurna Camp 2 views. Photo: Alex Barber
  • Alex Barber at Annapurna Camp 2. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI communications tent at Everest BC. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Yaks moving supplies in Everest Base Camp. Photo: Dave Hahn