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RMI Expeditions Blog


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Weather Window to Fly On

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Well, we have checked all of our boxes to take off, but we weren’t able to track down flyable weather to get us in to Base Camp on Denali. Fog rolled in first thing this morning on the glacier landing strip, and we spent the day on standby, waiting for it to clear. Instead, moisture continued to stream into the Alaska range, and rain came off and on to Talkeetna. With a lot of daylight up here this time of year, our flying window is long, and we stuck it out until 8pm, when we finally accepted another night in town and checked into the hotel again. What do you do on a standby day in Talkeetna? Nap in the hanger, download more movies, chat, and explore the curio shops on Main Street, ready to drop everything and run back to the hanger at a moment’s notice should things clear. All of that is punctuated by frequent trips to the coffee shop. We’ll enjoy another night in a bed and wake up tomorrow to see what the weather gives us. This is the game that we are playing in Alaska!

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Thanks for the updates,  tracking y’all to know where my brother in law, Steve Dietz is during this adventure. Good luck to the team!
Susan Dietz

Posted by: Susan Dietz on 5/24/2018 at 10:26 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches the Summit

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Hannah McGowan led the Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Hannah reported breezy (~20 mph) and chilly conditions on the summit. The only clouds to be found were the ones hugging the low lying valleys thousands of feet below them.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir will return to Camp Muir for one more night on the mountain. The team will descend to Paradise and then to Ashford tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations to the Seminar Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go guides and mountaineers! Can’t wait to hear about the trip from Andy Uhl! Dad, we are all looking forward to seeing you soon!!

Posted by: Anna Uhl on 5/24/2018 at 12:49 pm

Way to climb , Justin , so glad you had this amazing experience!  Can hardly wait to see you on level land and see your photos.  Love , grandma and grandpa

Posted by: John and jeri simonson on 5/24/2018 at 10:56 am


Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Arrive in Talkeenta

After many drives, flights, and bag hauling, we made it to Talkeetna.  The team brought about 950 pounds of gear that we promptly dropped in the K2 hanger in order to get some food and rest.  Tomorrow we will attack the pile of gear and pack it into submission within our packs.  In the afternoon we’ll fly into the Kahiltna Glacier. Hoping for sunny skies. 

RMI Guide Christina Dale

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck Jodie!

Posted by: John on 5/24/2018 at 11:59 am

I’ll be checking from time-to-time on my coworker and friend Jodi to see how things are going and to live vicariously thru her experience.  Best of luck to her and the rest of the team.  Stay safe and take lots of pictures!

Posted by: Selma on 5/24/2018 at 10:46 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Have Another Great Day

Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 5:21 PM PT

Our Denali team had another great day today as we carried supplies up to establish a cache around Windy Corner (~13,700’). The weather was perfect, with scattered clouds keeping the temps pleasant throughout the day. The climbing conditions we also perfect, with great, consistent névé for cramponing. In fact, the whole route so far has been in great shape.
Now we are back at our 11k camp, where we are lounging around, eating, and rehydrating. Tomorrow we are planning to take our first full rest day, as we need to recover and get used to the altitude before we move up to 14,200’

RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad to see the trip working this time, Alex & Tom & Team.  Hope your luck/weather continues and we can see pictures from the summit!  Love, Dad

Posted by: LARRY & MARTHA on 5/24/2018 at 4:18 pm

Dear Team,God bless you! We are with you!

Szia Joe! Drága Tesó! Ugye tudod,hogy szeretünk? Várunk haza!

Whith love: Andrea Méri and Family from Slovakia

Posted by: Andrea Méri on 5/24/2018 at 2:44 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Making Good Progress

Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 7:45 PM PT

Another day of beautiful weather let us descend back down to ~10,200’ to dig up our cache of supplies and haul it back up to our 11,000’ camp. The rest of the day was spent hydrating, resting, and preparing for the next step of this climb: establishing a cache at ~13,700’, just past Windy Corner. If the weather holds, that will be our plan for tomorrow.
We’re making good progress now, and we are all excited to exchange snowshoes for crampons and trekking poles for ice axes. Stay tuned as our progress continues.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mike,
I hope the weather Gods are good to you this year. If you have room in your packs going down, rather than throw all that valuable stool down a crevasse, ship some to me for my fecal transplants. Business is booming.
Buenas suerte amigo.

Posted by: Dr Dave on 5/23/2018 at 5:40 pm

Hello Dave Head, Shane Kidd and Team hello from Las Vegas we love you guys so proud and love you stay safe we will continue to pray for your safety and good weather KEEP ROCKING !! you got his.

Love Mom and Dad #2

Posted by: Ken peterson on 5/23/2018 at 1:42 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Prep in Talkeenta

Our day in Talkeenta progressed at a pretty leisurely pace. We started off with our orientation at the National Park Service after a visit to the coffee shop, and followed that with brunch at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, lest old traditions fail. Then it was into gear: double checking everything we brought, sorting, and packing for the plane flight to Kahiltna Base Camp. With our bags weighed and stacked, ready to be loaded into the Otters, we have done all we can do. It’s in the hands of the pilots and weather now. We will head out to town for dinner, and hope to wake up to clear skies and flying weather!

We’ll keep you posted,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You will see majesty at it’s best and definitely understand the creation set before each step of the way to the top! It will be a few weeks of amazing discoveries.  Know that you have prayers being sent out for you from So. California.  Love and Hugs!  (Danny’s parents)

Posted by: Karen Haleen on 5/23/2018 at 6:23 am

Good luck!  We will be watching your progress.

Posted by: Kristi and Jill Snow on 5/23/2018 at 5:27 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Move to 11,200 Camp

Monday, May 21, 2018 - 11:51 PM PT

Our upward progress on Denali continues, this time moving camp up to 11,200’. Snow and weather conditions were near perfect with scattered clouds, a few snow flakes, and a light breeze to keep us cool.
Now that we’ve established a nice camp here, our plan is to go back to 10,000’  tomorrow to pick up our cache of supplies; this will set us up for moving up onto the upper mountain. Everyone is doing well and we’re hoping the good weather continues.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Alex and Tom we are so proud of you. Keep up the incredible work and wishing you all the best :-)
Love Amy & Phil

Posted by: Amy and Phil on 5/24/2018 at 12:17 pm

Hi James,

I hope you’re enjoying Denali! Looks like an awesome trip.

Kevin

Posted by: Kevin O’Donnell on 5/23/2018 at 11:03 am


Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Carry Supplies to 10,200

Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 11:56 PM PT

The weather forecast for today was for 70% chance of snow. And, while I guess they got it right, we only saw light flurries for about an hour. The rest of the day was scattered clouds with great views of the Alaska Range. At times the sun was so strong that the heat was stifling. That didn’t stop our team from having a successful carry day, bringing supplies up to ~10,200’. Now we have returned to our camp at the base of Ski Hill (7800’) for the night. Tomorrow, if the weather allows we plan to move camp higher, to 11,200.  We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Joseph, it has become my morning routine to look at the updates and it’s so exciting to see the pictures and read about the progress you guys are making. I hope you’re having a blast. Be safe!

p.s. Hope you didn’t forget the matches :)

Posted by: Attila Incze on 5/21/2018 at 7:45 pm

Hey Alex and Tom-

Glad to hear you are on the mountain!!  I’ve been riding Tom’s new bike every day…. just kidding!  On a serious note, I plan to take your recycling out tonight…. so you can sleep well knowing that its taken care of!

Good luck… safe journey!

Neil

Posted by: Neil on 5/21/2018 at 3:50 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach The Summit

RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Christina Dale led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Dave reported a perfect day on the mountain. Both teams saw 100% of their climbers reach the top today.  They will spend some time enjoying the views then begin their descent to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Esooooooo!!!!!! Felicidades Kenji, Ronald y Tony!!!!
Mi esposo superheroe, sumamente orgullosa de ti! Mientras mas grande el reto, mas grande te haces!!! TE AMAMOS!! - Gaby, Kensuke y Seina

Posted by: Gabriela on 5/21/2018 at 5:00 pm

Wooohoo!!!! Congrats Maria and Joyce!

Posted by: Robin on 5/21/2018 at 11:22 am


Denali: Walter & Team Set Up Camp at the Base of Ski Hill

Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 1:12 a.m. PDT

The squirrely weather persists on Denali. It snowed all night last night, but fortunately we only picked up 4 inches or so. We woke up to more snow, wind, and very limited visibility. After breakfast we slowly started to pack up camp, hoping the weather would improve. Around noon the weather finally improved so we packed up our tents and rigged up our ropes.

By the time we were ready to walk, the weather was back its former, stormy self. We decided to give it a try and if conditions worsened we would make camp down on the Kahiltna Glacier and at least make some progress on the mountain. It was a good call because we made it all the way to Camp 2, at the base of Ski Hill (7,800’). We were in a ping pong ball most of the day—navigating using the wands marking the route, faint traces of other parties’ tracks, GPS, and a little Braille (well, maybe not Braille). Our navigation techniques worked and we cruised into camp in 5 hours flat!

Tomorrow the plan is to carry and cache supplies higher on the route and then return to our current camp. This will make for lighter loads when we move camp later this week and will help our acclimatization process.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking about you Alex, Tom, and team.  So happy to hear you are safe and making progress, thx for the updates!

Posted by: Sarah Flynn on 5/21/2018 at 7:22 am

Nice action photo, Thank you!  Glad to learn that Team Water is now underway. My best wishes to the entire team, and a special Hello to Tom M -you’re all in my thoughts.
Stay safe, stay strong & thrive.

Posted by: Jacquie on 5/21/2018 at 12:26 am

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