×

Log In

Or

Register With Us

    *required fields
    • Keep up to date with information about our latest climbs by joining our mailing list. Sign up and we'll keep you informed about new adventures, special offers, competitions, and news.

×
×

Check Availability

RMI Expeditions Blog


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Apocalyptic at 14K

May 26, 2016 - 11:29 pm PT

Tonight’s dispatch will be short courtesy of Storm Evans.
Everyone is doing well but very occupied with shoveling out our tents every 45 minutes as the 60mph wind that is ripping through camp fills everything back in with spindrift. Not the most pleasant day, and we certainly didn’t even entertain the thought of going anywhere. Hopefully the winds give us a reprieve and let us get some sleep tonight. We’ll touch base tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Sounds miserably cold. Hopefully the sun will come out and the winds will die down and better days lie ahead.

Posted by: leanne on 5/27/2016 at 12:14 pm

Sounds awesome, and if by awesome, I mean terrible. Please stay warm and hydrated! Fingers crossed for a clear weather window this weekend!!!!

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/27/2016 at 10:13 am


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on a Rest Day of Sorts

May 26, 2016 - 10:13 pm PT

Eggs,bacon, hash browns and of course the hot drink this team raves about, hot cider, started our day on the right foot. Three hours after breakfast we were back in camp with our cache from 10,000’.
Some review of ice axe arrest and cramponing after lunch has prepared us for tomorrow’s big climb to bring a cache up to 13,500’. This is where the climbing begins, and we’re really looking forward to it.
The afternoon was spent relaxing in the tents, a much needed and appreciated respite from the hard work everyone has been doing to this point.
Spirits are high as we get off the Kahiltna Glacier and start getting close to camp at 14,200’.
Let’s hope it’s not too windy for us on our climb around Windy Corner tomorrow.

RMI Guides Brent, Christina, Chris and the team

On The Map

Hi Michael -

Glad you had a day to rest. Gorgeous picture! Good luck with the big climb today. The blog has been great.
Love, Mom and Dad

Posted by: Frank and Maureen Santoni on 5/27/2016 at 10:08 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team on the Glacier and on the Move

May 26, 2016 - 10:04 p.m. PDT

After lots of anticipation we are here on the mountain!! This morning we had our final meal at the roadhouse, followed by good weather news from the pilots at the K2 hangar. The team changed from our street clothes to our action suits and before we knew it we were in the air flying to the glacier. We landed and assembled our mountain of gear in to individual loads. With a nice cloud cover and cool temps we made the decision to get the train moving! Travel was pleasant, though a bit hot when the sun started to peek through near our first camp. We have a strong team and everyone did a fabulous job. We made a tasty meal and are bedding down after a very productive day. Will keep you updated!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

All the best to you on your birthday, Blake - and what an amazing place to celebrate it!
Eager to see your photos.
Slainte M’haith!

Posted by: Matt Patterson on 5/27/2016 at 11:44 am

Happy Birthday Blake can’t think of a better way for you to spend it!
Thinking of you often!!

Dad

Posted by: Vince Votilla on 5/27/2016 at 11:40 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Compose Rest Day Poetry

May 25, 2016 - 11:47 p.m. PDT

The morning sun never showed at all, rather than views of “The Great One,” all we saw was the inside of a ping pong ball.
Blowing snow and midday brunch, spinach and egg burritos took us well past lunch.
Life at 14 is cut and dry, we’ve prepped, we’ve cached, and we’re ready to fly.
Our eyes are fixed on the buttress above, we were surprised this evening by a tent dwelling dove.
Coming high pressure may not be our best friend, but at least we’ll have some views again.
Toasted pop tarts keep our spirits light, we hope the summit is soon in our sights.

~~A poetic collaboration of RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young

On The Map

If Smores pop tarts are what you guys had,
Life at the top,
Ain’t half bad.

Wishing you all a continued safe (and amazing) journey! (*Hi, H!!*)

Posted by: Yogita on 5/26/2016 at 12:58 pm

Lisa: The “porch crowd” eagerly awaiting your dash to the top .. tried to encourage George and Rob to start training .. not much success, so far

Posted by: Peter on 5/26/2016 at 11:47 am


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cruise into Camp at 11,200’

May 25, 2016 - 11:14 p.m. PDT

The walk up to camp at 11,200’ was our easiest of the trip. Less than 3 hours of climbing with reasonable loads today was a very nice break for the team. Everyone was all smiles coming into camp just after noon. We even moved into a recently abandoned camp so we didn’t have to work on building camp. Our cache is a mere 30 minute walk from here, so picking it up on our back carry tomorrow will be even easier. Which is perfect after all the hard work everyone has been doing. And of course, the Posh Tent remains the center of activity and social life for us here on the mountain.

That’s all for now from camp at 11,200.’
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale, and Chris Ebeling and the team

On The Map

Hey Team, Beautiful picture! Looks Incredible. I wish you all the best! Climb Strong Dawn!!!!

Posted by: Dave on 5/27/2016 at 3:24 am

Paul,  Looks amazing!  Wish I was there!  Be safe and have an incredible journey.  Love living vicariously through you!
Gin Millsap

Posted by: Virginia on 5/26/2016 at 8:54 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Sort Gear in Talkeetna

May 25, 2016 - 8:59 p.m. PDT

Hello from Talkeetna! Today was spent sorting through our gear in the K2 Aviation airplane hangar. We’re all getting to know each other and we’re beginning to feel like a team. The luggage is lined up and we’re hoping for nice weather to fly into base camp in the morning. In the meantime, we’ll fill our stomachs and stay hydrated for the days ahead.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team


Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Summits!

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Ben Liken led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the crater shortly before 8:00 a.m. Elias reported beautiful weather, a cloud deck at 7,500’, chilly temperatures, and a light breeze. The team will spend a little time on the summit before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The Seminar will spend tonight at Camp Muir and descend back to Ashford tomorrow.

Congratulations to this week’s seminar team!

عيد ميلاد سعي Sandra

Posted by: Harab Mukabik on 5/27/2016 at 8:57 am

Happy birthday Sandra

Posted by: Familia on 5/26/2016 at 8:54 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 16,000’

May 25, 2016 - 1:04 am PT

For the first time in several days, the skies were clear above and below us this morning. With those clear skies came COLD temps. We let the sun warm the tents and us, and then set our sights on the fixed lines for a light carry of personal gear. The sun kept it warm while we moved, but the temps stayed cold and we kept the breaks short as they quickly turned chilly. Our group moved really well, and with no other traffic around, we were quickly at the top of the lines, sitting on the West Buttress proper. Our later departure, and light but cold winds convinced us to cache our loads there, and head back down. As has been the recent pattern, as we descended the winds above built, and soon evidence of strong winds was showing on the summit, and moving down to the Buttress as well. We were happy to be back in camp relaxing. The next weather system is forecasted to come in tonight and tomorrow, so we’ll enjoy the comfort of our tents. At this point, we are watching for our window and are perfectly set up to go for the summit when the opportunity presents. That might mean a touch more waiting, but we are ok with that.

Best from 14,

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team

On The Map

Well team u “got this” the summit is so close, man that slope looks like 38-40 degrees angle glad to hear the weather is on ur side rest up for the finally “Ooh Rah” say hello to our friend L R climb on and be safe. Best XO The Bolomey’s

Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/26/2016 at 3:10 am

Impressive feat to summit West Buttress during a break in the weather. Patrice tells me that Thursday through Sunday will bring favorable weather; so, maybe you’ll make good progress toward your goal of summiting. I am hoping and praying that you are successful because it’s occurred to me that another climb up Denali might be in your future if you don’t succeed this time. I couldn’t take the anxiety again.

Upwards and onwards!

Posted by: leanne on 5/25/2016 at 1:09 pm


Putting It All Together: RMI Guide Hannah McGowan Checks In from Her AMGA Rock Guide Course

Geese gabble on the banks of the Crooked River as it winds around the cliffs of lithified volcanic ash that make up our classroom here in Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. It’s day nine of ten on the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide Course, a program focused on multi-pitch rock guiding and rescue techniques in fourth and fifth class terrain. This course is the first step to becoming certified by the AMGA in one of three guiding disciplines - rock, alpine and skiing.

In the days leading up to this we have worked through systems on the ground and on the cliff, and have guided each other while maintaining a play-by-play discussion to ensure that each participant learns from the mistakes and successes of the others. As participants, we are here to transition from competent recreational climbers to facilitators of climbing in a professional setting. There are myriad new techniques and subtleties that I have been exposed to in the last eight days. 

Today is framed as a mock exam in which participants are put in the driver’s seat for a few pitches of climbing and descending. I do my best to put it all together - to select the best new tool in my tool box and implement it successfully. Throughout the exercise I notice how much more comfortable and confident I am with this process since the first time I was given the reins only a few days ago. I now feel equipped to enter the realm beyond recreational rock climbing. 

My participation in this course was made possible by the RMI Guide Grant, and I cannot express my gratitude enough.

RMI Guide Hannah McGowan


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cache Gear and Ready for Move Up

May 24, 2016 - 10:15 pm PT

At 6:00am the guides were just wrestling with the thought of unzipping from warm cocoon of down that so wonderfully keeps the cold outside at bay. A cold front had come thru and the winds had picked up as well. At that hour we didn’t know what to expect from the weather. Frost was sticking to the ceiling and walls of the tent, making any attempt to get up unpleasant. This was our first cold morning of the trip.
As it turned out, the sun had finally come out in all its glory, quite contrary to the forecast. For the first time the Alaska range was out in all its glory. We had a great walk down to pick up our cache, and unlike yesterday, had some relatively light packs to shoulder. We were actually able to put a new cache in above us at 10,000’, which will make our back carry in two days pretty easy.
Back at camp, with the tortellini dinner behind us, we’re back in our down cocoons as the sun has dropped over the mountains to our west and a chill has returned to camp.
Tomorrow, 11,200’ camp!

Cheers from the team at 9600’. We’re all doing well.
RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Next Page

Mt Rainier Weather
Clear sky

Sign up for Expedition Dispatches

check the Summit Registry try our Adventure Finder
Back to Top

Sign up for our Newsletter

    *required fields
    • Keep up to date with information about our latest climbs by joining our mailing list. Sign up and we'll keep you informed about new adventures, special offers, competitions, and news.
      privacy policy

Thank you for subscribing to the RMI Expeditions Newsletter!

While you're at it, you can sign up some of our other mailings as well:

Please choose the programs you'd like updates on: