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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

May 29, 2016 - 2:38 p.m. PDT

Tents were broken down early this morning. The team hit the trail a quarter before five after a 3:00 am wake up and a quick breakfast. The midnight sun cast a soft blanket of gold and pink on the north faces of Hunter, Foraker, and the Kiahiltna Dome. Low winds, cool temps, and the unique lighting of a summer Alaskan night made for an enjoyable start to the morning walk. These conditions were especially welcome after having to deal with 25 mph head winds on our carry day two days ago.

We made efficient stops and good time to our cache site and beyond up to 11 camp. Upon arrival, camp saw it’s first daylight as other groups began their ascent up the mountain. Some renovations, and more digging and our camp is up and ready for whatever the mountain throws at us! We will be all restocked and digging deep in the lunch sacks hopefully buy this time tomorrow and will keep you updated.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Reaches Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Mike King reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams began their descent from the summit shortly after 8:30 a.m. They will descend to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to greeting them in Ashford later today.

Congratulations Climbers!

Rob and Ed congratulations!!! We are looking forward to hearing from your great adventure.

Posted by: Mayra on 5/29/2016 at 3:23 pm

Congrats Brothers’ Crotty!!  Awesome accomplishment.  So proud of you!!

Posted by: Cindy on 5/29/2016 at 12:55 pm

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Build Camp at 14,200’

May 28, 2016 - 11:20 p.m. PDT

Luck has been with us as today turned out to be a nice day for a walk. And walk we did, moving camp up to 14,200’. We retraced our route from yesterday, passing by our cache just long enough to pick up a couple extra shovels to help build camp. The team crushed it going to 13,500’, but as is normal, felt the altitude on the last 700’. Unfortunately, we weren’t lucky enough to find a vacated camp to move into, so had to build camp from scratch. What’s nice though is that our neighbor is the RMI team before us. Graciously, they filled water bottles for our thirsty crew upon arrival.
We’re all in bed now looking forward to some well deserved rest after our big push.

Good night from 14,200’.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale, and Chris Ebeling, and the team

On The Map

Hi Daddy!
You guys are getting so close! I check the blog every day for updates and am glad to hear you guys are doing so well! I hope you’re holding up okay and know that the whole family misses you! Maybe if we’re lucky we can hear from you on your birthday (: I love you so much!


Posted by: Kayla Probstfeld on 5/29/2016 at 9:45 am

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait for a Weather Window

May 28, 2016 - 10:27 p.m. PDT

We woke with a sigh of relief to blue bird skies and calm conditions, though the winds up above were clearly stirring up a magic potion. With the morning came just a little heat to help us continue drying out after the storm. We had a strange desire for breakfast burritos this morning so we acted upon the urge. Given the continued strong winds up high we “just got to be” as life at 14 Camp continues. Numerous other teams took the elevator up the fixed lines to cache in hopes of taking advantage of the potential coming weather window these modern times and technology allow us to anticipate. We’d like to thank Rob Young, Sr. and Katie Van Deventer for being our personal forecasters. With views straight to the summit from where we sit, we’re staring at the gold on the ceiling patiently waiting for our time to climb.

Until then, give your heart away.
RMI Guides Jess Matthews, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, the Team and the Black Keys

On The Map

You guys are SOOO close ... stretch out that food as long as you can! Justin, I’m all set for my travel arrangements, so take your time on the mountain (but stay safe and warm). I’ll be waiting for you in Anchorage when you get there!!!!

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/29/2016 at 3:19 pm

Tay when you get back we’ll get some dank breakfast burritos.  You are a legend!!

Posted by: Les Morales on 5/29/2016 at 10:41 am

Mt. Rainier: Teams Summit

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Walter Hailes led the Four Day Summit Climb team to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reached the summit in gusty winds. We look forward to greeting the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon when the finish descending.

Congratulations climbers!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team - An Unexpected Carry

May 28, 2016 - 12:19 am PT

Strong winds buffeted camp this morning to the extent that we actually cut snow blocks to form walls around our beloved Posh tent before having breakfast.
That done, pancakes were the order of the morning as we looked on at the winds up high and wondered if we’d have any chance to make our carry today.
Pancakes, hot drinks and lively conversation carried the morning, but our eyes kept track of the goings on up high. So when a significant downtrend in the winds was noticed, we rallied and went for it, albeit later than we would have liked to start off.
Our carry to 13,500’ went off perfectly, with everyone climbing really well.
Let’s hope tomorrow allows us some break in the winds. As I finish this dispatch the winds have calmed, so I’m optimistic on our getting to 15,300’ tomorrow. But who knows?

Your team at 11,200’ camp,
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and Chris

On The Map

Hello Brent , Christine & Dawn! What an Awesome Experience you are having! Love these emails! Sending calm wind thoughts! Climb On and Climb Strong!!!!

Posted by: Dave on 5/29/2016 at 3:26 am

We are enjoying our Memorial Day weekend here in Florida where it is 87 degrees and sunny. Sending warm hugs and sunny wishes for your Denali adventure.  Keep tough and never act your age!  Love you.

Posted by: Carol Probstfeld on 5/28/2016 at 12:10 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Weather Day at 14K Camp

May 28, 2016 - 12:06 am PT

‘The Great One’ once again showed her might. Another night of hammering winds kept us from deep sleep. Despite unrelenting gales, Denali Storm Evans finally gifted us with sunny skies this morning. Today was a day to lick our wounds, repair and fortify camp, and dry our clothes; wet from the rigors of battling the passing storm. It was a day to be grateful for the sun.

Cinnamon Toast Crunch provided a dose of childhood nostalgia, followed up by Pete’s world famous power dinner; quinoa, lentils, squash, beans, and mustard. Our bodies and our minds still await our chance to experience the upper slopes of this great mountain.  With mother nature’s cooperation, we’re hopeful this shall soon come to fruition.

Until then, Namaste.

RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Jess, and Team

Ditto what Leanne said ... we are all anxiously awaiting what’s next for you all and the news can’t come soon enough. Nine days at Camp 3. Is that a record? I know you are doing your best to keep your spirits up together and give it all you’ve got. Justin, can I promise you a foot rub for all your efforts? Hopefully that gives you just a little more stamina ...

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/28/2016 at 2:24 pm

Oh, the simple pleasures of life - sunshine, dry clothes, deep sleep. I hope all these things stay with you until you reach your goal and return home safely. Your friends in the lower half have been praying nonstop for your safety and health.

These blog posts are like letters from heaven. Thanks for keeping us informed. It’s our lifeline.

Posted by: leanne on 5/28/2016 at 10:37 am

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Complete at 10,000’

May 27, 2016 - 6:06 pm PT

We woke up this morning to blustery but clear skies. With ridge top winds ripping all around us we decided to dig in before getting underway. The team learned about wall building and tidying up camp before separating all of their gear to be carried. Then we were off! Bright skies and a stiff breeze gave us great conditions to schlep our loads up toward Kahiltna Pass. The great visibility highlighted the big three: Hunter, Foraker and Denali standing tall against the wind. After a quick transition we had a load of gear stashed in the ground and were returning back to camp to hide away for the rest of the day.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Let’s Breck !

Posted by: Dad on 5/29/2016 at 11:10 am

Hi Tyler -
Good luck with this years team!  I still have great memories of our 2011 and 2012 expeditions.
-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/29/2016 at 10:45 am

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Apocalyptic at 14K

May 26, 2016 - 11:29 pm PT

Tonight’s dispatch will be short courtesy of Storm Evans.
Everyone is doing well but very occupied with shoveling out our tents every 45 minutes as the 60mph wind that is ripping through camp fills everything back in with spindrift. Not the most pleasant day, and we certainly didn’t even entertain the thought of going anywhere. Hopefully the winds give us a reprieve and let us get some sleep tonight. We’ll touch base tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Hello Hitesh, best wishes from everybody at Home. hopefully, weather clears up tomorrow! take care.

Posted by: Paresh on 5/27/2016 at 9:16 pm

Hitesh. All is taken care of. Wishing you good weather!!!

Posted by: Rod Dubois on 5/27/2016 at 3:59 pm

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team on a Rest Day of Sorts

May 26, 2016 - 10:13 pm PT

Eggs,bacon, hash browns and of course the hot drink this team raves about, hot cider, started our day on the right foot. Three hours after breakfast we were back in camp with our cache from 10,000’.
Some review of ice axe arrest and cramponing after lunch has prepared us for tomorrow’s big climb to bring a cache up to 13,500’. This is where the climbing begins, and we’re really looking forward to it.
The afternoon was spent relaxing in the tents, a much needed and appreciated respite from the hard work everyone has been doing to this point.
Spirits are high as we get off the Kahiltna Glacier and start getting close to camp at 14,200’.
Let’s hope it’s not too windy for us on our climb around Windy Corner tomorrow.

RMI Guides Brent, Christina, Chris and the team

On The Map

Hi Michael -

Glad you had a day to rest. Gorgeous picture! Good luck with the big climb today. The blog has been great.
Love, Mom and Dad

Posted by: Frank and Maureen Santoni on 5/27/2016 at 10:08 am

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