McKinley: Jones and Team Ready to Fly

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

Thursday, May 28th 12:32 pm PDT

The team is all assembled and packed in Talkeetna! Yesterday we had a thorough gear check and sorting session in the K2 Aviation hangar. Everyone’s kits are dialed and we are ready to go. It seems like we have a great team and we are hoping for a great trip. Hopefully we have some good weather today and are able to fly on!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

The RMI May 26th McKinley team sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann RMI Guide Tyler Jones sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann The RMI May 26th McKinley team ready to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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I’m so excited for you all!!!  Happy trails to you all and a big hug, for my handsome brother-in-law, Rod Washington… you da man!!

Watch out for each other and… read more

Posted by: Maria Washington on 5/28/2015 at 6:49 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to High Camp

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, May 28th 3:49 am PDT

After so many posts about waiting for weather, this one is different. We headed for the fixed lines this morning under clear, sunny skies. The day turned into the nicest that Robby, Josh, or I have ever had on the West Buttress—warm and without a breathe of wind. Because the weather was so nice, the climbing conditions so perfect, and the group climbing so well, we decided to push all of the way to 17 Camp and leave our cache there. The climbing on the Buttress is some of the best of the entire route, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the huge views, interesting climbing, and the accomplishment of getting it done. It was a big day, just under 10 hours round trip, so everyone is knackered but elated, and we will more than likely sleep in and take a rest day tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Looking up at the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley, AK from 14 Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Hi Renee, hope all is going well. Ralph & Meissa are on their best behaviour (so far…..)
What an epic climb you have undertaken!!!! I am very proud of… read more

Posted by: Steve Telford on 5/28/2015 at 7:48 pm

Hi Greg Barber. I wish you a great climb and good weather to stand on the summit of Denali. Climb and descend saféy, we’ll go for drinks in Vancouver together.

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Posted by: Daniel Emond on 5/28/2015 at 5:48 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Posted by: Andy Hildebrand, Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2015 - 9:39 am PT

In the big picture breakdown of Mt. McKinley’s climbing days, it would be said that historically the move day from 11,000 foot camp to 14,000 foot camp would prove to be one of the most difficult.  Today I would say that we beat the odds.  We broke camp at 7 am this morning in quick time and after a delicious breakfast of instant oatmeal and instant coffee we were ready to tackle the day’s first objective.  Directly out of 11 camp, a swell steep uphill called Motorcycle Hill greets you.  Next is Squirrel Hill and after that Windy Corner.  Now I’m not sure how we have gotten in such good graces with the often grumpy weather gods but today those gods, sitting around their big weather God dinner table, decide today should be the nicest day all month.  With clear skies, no wind and perfect walking temps we all zipped right through those hills and corners to a breathtaking camp here at 14,000 feet.  We were in no rush because the day was so amazing so we created our own camp out of scratch and are all feeling rewarded and strong.  Big move days rarely go this smooth.  We could not feel more psyched for what’s to come. 
I am thinking about you Liam.  I can’t wait to see you. 
Wishing all of our family and friends big hugs. 
RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Looking up toward Windy Corner en route to 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Colleciton

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Keeping tabs on your ascent Bob. Sounds like your team is killing it up there. Can’t wait to hear about the experience in more detail. Safe climbing and a successful… read more

Posted by: Eric Ubersax on 5/28/2015 at 6:27 pm

Great climbing, team. Let’s hope for a string of good weather days. Stay warm and enjoy the experiences!

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Posted by: Connie Whitley on 5/28/2015 at 5:06 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir on the Summit!

Posted by: Brent Okita, Garrett Stevens | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Garrett Stevens reached Camp Muir on Monday with their team.  This week has been beautiful and the team has spent their time on the mountain honing their mountaineering techniques.  This morning the team left Camp Muir en route to the summit.  They arrived around 6:30 am PT and were able to enjoy the blue skies and sunshine from the top.  The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain and some additional training.  Tomorrow after noon they will return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

Seminar Climbers en route to Camp Muir on May 25.  Photo: Brent Okita The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 28th.  Photo: Brent Okita Enjoying the sunrise from Camp Muir during the Seminar.  Photo: Brent Okita
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Congratulations to the team! Very proud of you, Ben!

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Posted by: Gail Fine on 5/28/2015 at 8:07 pm

Congratulations on your great start Lee! Happy to hear that your team is doing well and the weather is cooperating. Stay warm. I’m pulling for you! Good luck to you… read more

Posted by: Frank Suring on 5/28/2015 at 7:20 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’

Posted by: Billy Haas, Solveig Waterfall, Mike Walter | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 27, 2015 - 10:38 pm PT

We woke early this morning, ate, took down our tents and packed our backpacks. We even had our harnesses on. The weather was perfect. But after checking multiple weather resources, our decision was clear. Weather models were in agreement, forecasting gale force winds in excess of 65mph tomorrow at high camp. It would not have been prudent to risk going up high today and deal with potential tent-crushing winds tomorrow. So we unpacked and set up our tents anew.
Throughout the emotional swings of this morning, our team has remained resolute. Safety is our number one priority up here in the mountains, and we will try for our summit push after tomorrow’s winds abate. In fact, the forecast looks quite good for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We’re optimistic that we’ll have good shot to move up to high camp on Friday.
In the mean time today, we’re enjoying the best weather day of our whole trip. It’s sunny, calm, and warm here at 14,200’.
Pete Van Deventer’s expedition is up high on the ridge today, caching supplies for their stint at high camp (which will likely coincide with ours). Adam Knoff’s expedition rolled into camp today also, and they’re busy setting up their camp. It’s good to see a lot of friendly RMI climber faces here at camp.
We’ll keep you posted any news from our end.

Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Check out the Views from the Edge of the World

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 11:13 pm PT

We woke to a swirling cloud cap above, that left little doubt that it was unpleasant in the West Buttress. We decided to wait the day yet again and see what tomorrow brings. We did take advantage of a break in the clouds to walk to the “Edge of the World’, where Genet Basin drops almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna. The views from here are unsurpassed and everyone took turns being belayed out to the edge to snap photos. We’ll give another shot at caching on the buttress tomorrow. We’ll let you know how it goes.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

Looking out over the Edge of the World from 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Incredible photo!!, well done to all. Feels like you’ve been gone for a lot longer than 18 days renee, I’m sure it feels like a long time for you also… read more

Posted by: Leigh on 5/28/2015 at 3:52 am

Team PRJ… wow sounds like mother nature is flexing her muscles. Hope you are keeping warm and well fed… especially Renee. I miss you so much! Work is not the… read more

Posted by: Kathy on 5/27/2015 at 8:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait at 14 Camp and Explore the Edge of the World

Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Mike Walter, Billy Haas | May 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 10:33 pm PT

We woke early again today, hoping for good weather to move up to high camp. But it was not to be. A large lenticular cloud, indicating strong winds, had formed over the top of Denali, extending down beyond high camp. Winds were howling up high until a little afternoon today, when the cloud dissipated for a couple hours and then reformed in the afternoon. The winds were too strong for us to safely move camp to 17,200’, so we rested again at 14,200’.
We took advantage of clear skies on the lower mountain to take a walk out to the “Edge of the World”, a point south of our camp that looks down sheer cliffs about 5,000’ down the the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The views from the Edge are surreal, and the scale is nearly incomprehensible.
We’re psyched to see what the weather brings tomorrow, and we’re ready to take advantage of good weather when it presents itself. We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

The view from the Edge of the World.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Glad to see you guys are doing well.  Hope to see these sites myself in the next couple of year or so.

Thanks

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Posted by: Kevin Stone on 5/28/2015 at 7:15 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 11,200’

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Andy Hildebrand, Nick Hunt | May 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 26, 2015 - 7:24 pm PT

I gave the team a general idea of when we might start breakfast this morning at dinner last night.  I bet we get hot water started at around 8, then start pancakes and coffee shortly after that I said.  I didn’t even open my eyes until almost nine.  While in the middle of working your way up this mountain day after day none of us realized how much we could use a rest.  Today it became clear.  We sat in the cook tent making fresh Pete’s coffee and watching Andy flip flap jacks until almost noon.  Then we took naps and soaked up the sun we haven’t really seen clearly this entire trip.  Now we are cooking quesadillas and packing up for our potential move to 14 Camp tomorrow.  Everyone is happy to be caching dirty underwear, smelly socks and unneeded stuff for the upper mountain.  It has been a beautiful rest day here at 11 Camp but after getting a great view of the upper mountain yesterday, the team feels super psyched to push this climb higher and see what unfolds. 
Check in tomorrow for the outcome of our hopeful move. 
Team Knoff saying goodnight.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, with Kahiltna Dome in the cloudy distance.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Greg:

So glad to hear you are all doing so well and that you took a day to rest! Can’t wait to see how the next move goes!
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Posted by: Angelica on 5/27/2015 at 9:36 pm

Shannon and team, hope you enjoyed your rest day. Pancakes always good to warm the belly.  Climb on.  Looking forward to the next post.

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Posted by: patty & mark on 5/27/2015 at 11:19 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Carry to 13,500’

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Andy Hildebrand, Nick Hunt | May 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 26, 2015 - 10:08 am PT

Today is Memorial Day.  With the simplicity of life on this mountain taking charge, many of us don’t even know what day it is.  The process of get up, get dressed in close quarters, make your way to the cook tent dug into the side of the mountain, eat breakfast, pack you bag and climb, come back to the tents, eat dinner and go to bed is a process where days don’t matter.  So if birthdays are missed, anniversaries are forgotten about, we are not to blame.  Despite having digital doohickeys with us,  looking at calendars and keeping track of days becomes arbitrary.  Today as it turns out wasn’t Memorial Day up here, it was Windy Corner day.  This legendary gateway to the upper mountain is famous for its heinous wind, scary rock fall and tricky crevasses.  We are happy to report our carry around the corner to 13,500 feet went as smooth as we could have asked for.  Again we lucked out with weather because as I wrote earlier our early morning wake up calls got us going into clear skies but as soon as we arrived back in camp seven hours later it was snowing as hard as it has all trip.  There is much to be said for walking into a camp that is waiting for you.  We will rest tomorrow and eat pancakes and drink fresh coffee until nap time.  We can’t wait. 
Hello to Mrs. Vradenburg’s class at Lamotte School   I hope Liam is behaving.  Stay tuned. 

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Climbers below Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Hi Greg… sooooo excited to hear the weather is cooperating this time around!  The HFI crew is wishing you and your group a safe summit & return.  We sort of… read more

Posted by: Shelly Davies on 5/27/2015 at 6:50 am

Sounds like weather and timing are working well for you climbers. wishing everyone a well deserved rest and careful climbing tomorrow.  Thinking of you often Greg.  Great to get the… read more

Posted by: Dawn on 5/26/2015 at 5:26 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Retrieve Cache, Ready for Carry

Posted by: Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard | May 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 12:17 am PT

Just like Johnny Cash said, “that train keeps a rollin’.” The winds were down, a cloud of sparkling ice crystals hung around, reflecting the sunlight and solar baking everything, and we returned to a dead calm Windy Corner to retrieve our cash. We are one step closer now with all of our food up here with us. The next step is to take a run at the fixed lines and cache some food in the West Buttress. To prepare, we spent the afternoon practicing with our ascenders and getting prepped for that potential carry tomorrow. Mac and cheese with bacon for dinner to fuel us tomorrow. We’ll hope to wake up with a green light to head up. For now, good night!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

An RMI Team approaching 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Rennee you are doing not only us here at the VEC, but your family and more importantly yourself proud ! Everyone is 100% right behind you all the way my… read more

Posted by: Paul your GOD Webbyyyyy on 5/26/2015 at 8:23 pm

Hello there Renee and Team PRJ,
So glad to hear you retrieved your cache.  Yippee - Food for all now.
You are making headway so that’s awesome.
read more

Posted by: lori on 5/26/2015 at 7:45 pm


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • The RMI May 26th McKinley team sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • RMI Guide Tyler Jones sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI May 26th McKinley team ready to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Looking up at the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley, AK from 14 Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up toward Windy Corner en route to 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Colleciton
  • Seminar Climbers en route to Camp Muir on May 25.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 28th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Enjoying the sunrise from Camp Muir during the Seminar.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Looking out over the Edge of the World from 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The view from the Edge of the World.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, with Kahiltna Dome in the cloudy distance.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers below Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team approaching 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RM Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with new snow.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley fortifies snow walls and clears tents after new snow.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Crevasse Rescue on the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar. RMI Chris Villar
  • A snowy camp at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RM Team climbing towards 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The Mt. Rainier summit crater. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Tent at 14,000' Camp on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • Annapurna Base Camp. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Alex Barber looking towards the higher slopes of Annapurna. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Alex Barber trekking through devastated villages after the Nepal Earthquake. Photo: Alex Barber
  • An RMI team ascending Ski Hill towards 9,800 Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: RMI Collection
  • 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK surrounded by fortified walls. Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI climbers ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier in poor visibility. Photo: Ed Viesturs