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Mt. McKinley: June 4th Team Beren - Ready in Talkeenta

Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Hello,
This is the RMI Mt. McKinley June 4th Expedition. The whole team is here in Talkeetna, Alaska, packed and ready to rock. Today we packed up, checked our gear and sat in on a National Park Service orientation to preview a bit of the upcoming adventure. The team is excited and ready to launch. So far the flying weather hasn’t let many folks land these days, but it appears to be stabilizing just in time for us to storm the SE fork of the Kahiltna. With any luck we’ll fly out tomorrow morning, so we better get some rest tonight.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Have fun & be safe - big props from Seattle!

Posted by: Stacey Guerrero on 6/8/2013 at 8:49 pm

Zurich wishes all the best and good luck for the whole team.

Posted by: Tom&Jerry;$ on 6/6/2013 at 12:06 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Fly On To the Kahiltna

Thursday, June 6, 2013
Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier!  Our team flew from Talkeetna onto the mountain this morning and we’ve been busy setting up shop, pitching tents and dialing in camp. Our sleds are ready and it’s an “early to bed, early to rise” type of morning in our future, provided the weather stays workable. Tomorrow we ride for the base of Ski Hill and start climbing.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

All reports sound good for the recent summits.  Safe journey to all of you as you begin the climb.  Our prayer flags are hung in the backyard for your summit and return. xoox, Bonny

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 6/7/2013 at 12:01 pm

Good luck Everyone!
Love,
Your LA Fans

Posted by: S Brownie on 6/6/2013 at 10:57 pm


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team Camp at Ski Hill

Friday, June 7, 2013
Happy 100 Year Anniversary of the first ascent of Denali to all our friends in the lowlands!  We celebrated the occasion by leaving Basecamp for our first camp at the base of Ski Hill. On our way we ran into RMI Team 3 with Brent, Leah and Logan, fresh (generous term) from the summit. A big congratulations for a job well done.
  We travelled early this morning, making use of the cooler temps to stay on the surface of the snow instead of post holing our way into utter frustration. Our way to camp was smooth and we can only hope the melting snow doesn’t disappear too fast so that we can make our way out of here in a few weeks. I’m sure it will work out just fine.
  We plan on calling it early tonight and carrying higher early tomorrow morning while it’s still cold and then we can soak up the heat in the afternoon. The team is off to a great start, climbing strong and happy to be on the mountain.

RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

On The Map

Bill “degrees of greatness”
Another great adventure….
Love the pictures
Sacramento, ca temperature108

Posted by: Bill&Cathy; on 6/9/2013 at 11:22 pm

great job, miss you and proud of you Barbara your amazing! All of you are amazing! Kalispell Montana

Posted by: jay rocha on 6/8/2013 at 7:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry Higher

Saturday, June 8, 2013
Waking early this morning we shouldered out packs and made a bid to move some supplies higher on the mountain. Mild but cold enough temps kept the walking comfortable and we were able to cache at 11,000’ camp before the sun came out in force. The team did great, and we made it back to our camp at the base of Ski Hill before the heat really turned on.
Now we are hiding in whatever shade we can find before an early dinner and bed. If the weather holds or at least remains workable, we will fire for 11 Camp in the wee hours tomorrow. Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

On The Map

Wow! The team is making great progress!
I love seeing pictures of the group!
We’re all rooting for you!
-S Brownie
P.S. All of the LA Rock Climbers say hello and send their best!

Posted by: S Brownie on 6/9/2013 at 9:56 pm

Great job guys good luck and always thinking of you all. Kalispell Montana

Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/9/2013 at 7:12 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Arrive to 11,000 Camp

Sunday, June 9, 2013
Tonight we will sleep well after three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000’ camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger. 

The rest day won’t be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000’ Camp.

So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family.

RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

Looking good, Thanks for the wonderful updates and photos. B Safe and have fun! Kalispell Montana

Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/10/2013 at 12:06 pm

Getting tremendous vicarious enjoyment from your trip!  Keep up the fantastic work!!

Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/10/2013 at 11:43 am


Mt. McKinley: Team Beren Enjoys Rest Day

Monday, June 10, 2013
It did snow a little bit last night and the cold wind this morning made a camp day a welcome change of pace for this team. We are climbing very well so far, and I’m sure everyone would’ve done just fine continuing higher this morning. Patience on the big mountain is key, and the recovery day will only make us stronger for the future as we acclimatize and settle in to camp life.

After a big breakfast we reviewed some cramponing techniques and ice axe usage. After our mid-morning relaxation session we are going to have a potluck lunch and move to a little rope work and cache digging before dinner. Tomorrow if the weather is workable we will carry towards 14,000’ Camp and get a little taste of some real altitude. Everyone sends their best to family and friends back home.

Over and out,
RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Team Caraccio is thinking of you Mike. You are an inspiration to us all. Love Lori

Posted by: Lori on 6/11/2013 at 4:15 pm

Thinking of you Michael. I love you and miss you!
Vien

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/11/2013 at 11:13 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

Tuesday, June 11, 2013
All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000’ tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time.

RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way.  Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA

Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm

James and Others:

It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve).  Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive,  persistence, and stamina!  Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe.  Best of success as you all continue to ascent!

Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

Wednesday, June 12, 2013
A fine day for a move presented itself to us this morning and we certainly made the most of it. Leaving our 11,000’ Camp in the early morning cold is great training for the chill of higher altitude and we made a solid bid before the sun came out in force. It’s nearly always hot coming into 14 and today was no exception. We were treated to some real hospitality when we arrived in the form of another RMI Team, led by Tyler Jones and Garret Stevens. Freshly hydrated, we set to work building camp and rebuilding ourselves with a big meal and early night’s rest. Tomorrow is a rest day, but I hazard a guess that we will be working in some way most of the day, retrieving a cache, fortifying camp and practicing for the fixed lines.

It is exciting to be up here with such a great team!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Galen,
I wait eagerly everyday for updates, checking the blog multiple times (despite the fact that I have subscribed to notifications). I have also read the blogs of the team you saw come down after their summit as well as the other team who’s also at 14k but started before your team. Reading all of these incredible stories and lush descriptions makes me jelly :( and reminds me of when I camped on top of tajumulco. Looks like there’s a bit of very cold and fierce wind and you may have to wait before climbing to 17k and/or to the top. By my calculations, you have 2/3 days of buffer time so hopefully the winds will die down a bit. Or “if you can hold on. If you can hold on, hold on.” Today I found myself thinking and brainstorming about our travel and it made me happy. I hope to see you soon R

Posted by: Alice on 6/14/2013 at 1:04 am

Keep up the great work everyone!I miss you Michael, have fun and be safe. Love Vien.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/13/2013 at 5:22 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Retrieve Cache and Race Around for Science

Thursday, June 13, 2013
Today we “rested” at camp, but it hardly felt like it. After breakfast we put on some empty packs and boogied down to retrieve our cache at 13,500’. The wind kept our somewhat spirited return trip from being too hot. Once back and rested, we fortified camp with stellar walls for the afternoon. Some of us even found a little time to participate in a high altitude medical study which had us racing around in the name of science. Then dinner and a few songs around the stoves and off to bed. The team impressed everyone around with our hard work and we really earned some down time tomorrow. Maybe there will be some actual rest for this not so weary crew.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

I’m so impressed with all of you!  Amazing.  Good luck & safe journey up. 
Karen

Posted by: Karen Hoffman on 6/14/2013 at 1:40 pm

I take it that Grasshopper will NOT be at happy hour today in McKinney, then. (It was his turn to buy, you know). Safe journeys!

Posted by: Tim on 6/14/2013 at 12:30 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Enjoy Their Rest Day

Friday, June 14, 2013
It sure felt nice for the team to get a little extra time in sleeping bags this morning before an epic pancake and bacon breakfast. Then it was off to practice for the fixed lines and Autobahn just outside of camp. The team is primed and ready for moving up on the mountain, skills sharp and energy high. After a siesta, we will take a stroll over to the Edge of the World and take in the sights nearly 7,000 feet down the NE Fork o the Kahiltna before dinner. Not a bad day up here at all.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Peter/Dad, Happy Father’s Day from all of us!  Love, Nathaniel

Posted by: Nathaniel on 6/16/2013 at 9:38 am

Happy Father’s Day.  Hope you are having the best ever.  Miss you here.  Safe travels to 17,200. x, Bonny

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 6/16/2013 at 8:17 am

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