Entries By elias de andres martos
Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn. Copa taught us a great lesson about ourselves today; about how much trail we could break, how much wind we could withstand, route finding we could do, crevasses to go around, or in other words, what are we made of. The climb stopped for us at 5,850m, basically a few feet from gaining the summit ridge. But the team had been building up to the circumstances with the previous climbs, and we held it together until it was no longer the right thing to do. Regardless, the feel of accomplishment is very present, and we’re celebrating at Base Camp with the most awesome of dinners our cook Emilio could collaborate, including homemade chocolate cake, which by the way, made at 14,800ft on a portable propane stove top, is big deal. We’ll head to Huaraz tomorrow after loading our donkeys, and close up our program with a celebratory dinner.
Spanish word of the day: viento blanco (cloud cap)
July 6, 2016
Hello. This is the Peru Seminar calling in from our high Camp on Copa. We are going to bed. It’s 6:30 pm local time and we are hoping to give you guys a call tomorrow from the summit. It’s been a little bit of a taxing climb this year. Much drier year than others, but we managed to get up to camp. We hope to have a good climb tomorrow. Stay tuned.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Copa High Camp.
Good luck on the BIG summit today!
Posted by: Sandy Sawyer on 7/7/2016 at 5:59 am
Good luck and I hope you make the summit today!
Posted by: Mike mangano on 7/7/2016 at 3:44 am
July 5, 2016
And we arrived to Copa BC! A good 5 hour approach, brought us to the drainage if the Lajiacocha lake, at some 14,800ft. Some clouds are currently covering the skies, and we can tell snow falling up high, but spirits are high…we’re on the mountains! Our cook is prepping our dinner, and the night is falling. Without going crazy, tomorrow we’ll move to high camp. We’ll be calling from there, all excited about our summit push!
RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and Team.
Good Luck!! And I hope the weather is good for you!
Posted by: Mike Mangano on 7/6/2016 at 4:47 am
July 5, 2016
Monday, July 4, 2016 - 10:35 p.m. PDT
Good evening from Huaraz,
We descended this morning from Ishinca Base Camp, and by early afternoon, we arrived at the trailhead of Pashpa. After unloading the donkeys and loading the bus, a one hour drive took us back to our hotel in Huaraz. Early tomorrow morning we’ll depart for the trail head of Vicos, towards Copa Base Camp. The climbing team is doing well and motivated for the upcoming objective, a Denali sized mountain on a range with more than 100 peaks of that height! We’ll be checking in from our camps in the upcoming days.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
And another summit came our way! Urus East proved to be a steep challenge today; bare glacier ramps of crystal clear ice preceded by long stretches of gnarly boulders and slabs and an engaging fourth class summit pyramid, sure squeezed our skills and endurance. But the views of our pinnacle objective coming up, Nevado Copa, across the valley to the north, reminded us that today was only another milestone in our journey to the 6,000-meter mark, and we descended in style, as guides like to say “keeping it together”, (and perhaps also animated by the improvised karaoke that Dan improvised on top to the tunes of Phil Collins’ “On a The Air Tonight” song.)
Tomorrow we finish our leg in the Ishinca Valley; we’ll be heading back out to Huaraz for the evening, and to an earned shower before “getting dirty” again for the last leg of our trip. Check tomorrow for some pics as soon as we get internet again.
Good night, RMI Guide Elías de Andres and team.
-Spanish climbing word of the day: “mochila” (backpack)
July 3, 2016
Good morning. This is Elias and the team calling from the summit of Urus East, 5,380 meters. It’s 9:30 am local time. We are having a good time. The weather is perfect, and we are about to start our descent. Check us out on the blog tonight for a full recap. We’ll be heading out tomorrow for a rest day in Huaraz before heading out to Copa. That’s all for now. Bye.
July 2, 2016
Buenas tardes from Ishinca Base camp. Rest day today with a good session of rope self rescue and abseiling in the afternoon is what was in the agenda. We’re climbing Urus East tonight, so an even heartier dinner was served before early bed time, which was delayed by the stories shared over the after-dessert tea. Weather keeps holding pretty good, and all seems lined up for a good day up the closest of the towers reigning over this unreal valley.
Stay tuned for our recap tomorrow,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
-Spanish climbing word of the day; “grieta” (crevasse)
July 1, 2016
And we made it!
Nevado Ishinca greeted us this morning with more ice and steep terrain than any of the three guides remember. Intricate navigation on its summit pyramid required a good deal of attention to crevasses, moats and leaning seracs, but motivation and performance had us on top at 11am. We passed the only other team on the mountain before summiting, and the descent proved to be another adventure to ourselves; we decided to descend via a different route, completing a full circumnavigation of the mountain… not a piece of cake when the subject is an 18,100’ prominence. We’re headed to bed as we speak, and a well deserved rest day awaits tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and Team
-Spanish climbing word of the day; Rimaya (bergschrund)
July 1, 2016
Hello this is Elias, 11:00 local time in Peru. We just summitted Ishinca! I have some folks right next to me that would like to say something. [Team cheers!] Alright, that’s what you get when you climb in style with RMI. We are going to initiate our descent in the next few minutes and we’ll be blogging tonight with a recap of what we did. Tomorrow we’re going to take a rest day and we’ll be revitalized for the next climb up Urus. Stay tuned. Take care. Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from the Ishinca summit!
Congrats, Dan and Augie, as well as the rest of the team! Looking forward to hearing about more adventures and summits! (By the way, I love the new design of the RMI blogs.)
Posted by: Darrick on 7/3/2016 at 10:48 am
Ed, tassja and team - congrats on the Ishinca summit! Looks amazing and I am sure you are in heaven! Just a side note Ed - I made it to the top :)
Posted by: Paula on 7/1/2016 at 10:05 pm
June 30, 2016
Expeditions into the great mountains of the world require an incredible amount of dreaming, planning, preparation, and finally, performing. The preparations our team has made leading them into the Cordillera Blanca culminated today with an alpine climbing school for the ages. We’ve trained and traveled, and finally put the finishing touches on our skill sets today with thorough instruction for the climbs ahead of us. Tomorrow, we perform. With stable weather building, we’re setting our sights on the jagged 18,143’ summit of Nevado Ishinca. With stomachs full of Lomo Saltado, we’re bedding down early to rest our muscles for the work that lies ahead. If all goes as planned, we’ll be calling from 18,143’ tomorrow.
—Spanish Climbing Word of the Day: Hielo Glaciar - “Glacial Ice”
RMI Guides Robby Young and Elias de Andres Martos and team