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Entries By elias de andres martos


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Return from the Mountains

Greetings from Huaraz!

The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We’ll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter’s family, before packing for tomorrow’s departure to Lima and flights back home.
Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year’s expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff’s Schellens’ team, who’s currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back at Base Camp

We are back at the comfort of lower elevations, the meals of our cook Emilio, and the safety of the Andean meadow in which it sits. Our summit climb yesterday was incredible; mainly because of the climbing ability of our climbers, (providing the fastest and most efficient one this guide has had) but also because the weather, conditions and surroundings. We had the mountain to ourselves, which contributed too. This morning, we had to drag our feet out of Camp 2, since a whiteout engulfed us upon waking up. The weather gave us a break and without hesitation, we started our descent to BC. We know we’re not done till we dismount our horses tomorrow at the trailhead, but our sense of accomplishment makes us believe so; we have climbed, arguably and according to many, the most beautiful mountain in the world. We’re going now to rest that thought in the warmth of the first night not on the glacier in a few days, and let you know all about it tomorrow from our hotel.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

We’re very proud of you all! Congratulations on your successful climb! Dixie, Scott and Tucker

Posted by: Dixie on 7/25/2015 at 5:38 am

Fatima, Great to hear that you had a memorable experience and such good conditions on summit day on such an unusually beautiful mountain. That (and the 450m ice-climb) will make it special! Take care on the return journey.
Peter

Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/24/2015 at 3:57 pm


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Summit!

Hi again, this is Elias it looks like the previous message got cut by the satellite reception. We are back at Camp, everything went pretty well. This team crushed it, they climbed 450 meters of really step ice on Alpamayo in less than five hours.  They killed it. We are safely back at camp. Sorry we couldn’t call from the top but if you have seen pictures of the mountain, there is only room for one person at a time so we couldn’t call from there.  This is pretty awesome.  We want to thank everybody who has been cheering for us.  We will keep you posted tomorrow from Base Camp, hopefully.  We’re going to chill tonight here at High Camp, because we had the entire mountain to ourselves. So there was no rush to leave early, we had a later start, enjoyed ourselves in the daylight. We are going to sleep here and then do the descent tomorrow. That’s all for now and thanks again for following, and we will check in tomorrow from Base Camp prior to heading out the next day.

Take care, Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Felicitaciones al equipo!!!!
Que tengan un descenso seguro y disfruten del éxito!
Gracias por todos los informes
Un abrazo fuerte
Bettina ( hermana de Wolf )

Posted by: Bettina Riehle de Mola on 7/22/2015 at 10:47 pm

Dear Team - CONGRATULATIONS!!!! What an amazing achievement - be safe on the way down and get some rest! Hugs and BRAVO! Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/22/2015 at 4:45 pm


Alpamayo Expedition:  Elias and Team Check in from High Camp

Hello, this is Elías and the Alpamayo team calling again from High Camp. Today, at the base of the Alpamayo Head Wall, we are taking a rest day, as we’d let you know yesterday. The weather looks really good, we are in good spirits and health, and we’re just relaxing and waiting for our summit push tonight. So tomorrow, this time, check in, and hopefully we will have a summit report from you. Otherwise, stay tuned until then, and best regards to everybody back home. Bye.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from High Camp on Alpamayo.

K-So nice to hear from you -the call made my day!!! So I am thinking that when you get back maybe you can tackle Campbell Hill (1550’) in Logan County—-Race ya to the top!!  Mike

Posted by: Michael on 7/21/2015 at 6:44 pm

Dear Team, have a good rest and some serious sleep hours and all the best for the summit push! Thinking of you all and sending a BIG hug, Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/21/2015 at 6:16 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Move to High Camp

Hello, this is RMI Guide Elias Andres and the Alpamayo team, along with local guide, Peter. We are currently at high camp on Alpamayo at 5,400 meters. The team crushed it. We came up here in a mere four hours overcoming some steep terrain, but it was not difficult for anybody. We are currently setting up camp. Everyone will be chill tomorrow. We are going to take advantage of the elevation to continue to acclimatize for the summit bid and let a couple of teams that arrived here ahead of us climb the mountain so we have the route to ourselves. We’ll keep you posted tomorrow. Stay tuned at this time and we will let you know how we are doing, which is presumably very, very well. Hopefully in 48 hours you will have a summit report.  That’s it for now.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Alpamayo High Camp.

Hi Kara
  The mtn. looks awesome.  I know you’re having a ball.
Kristen and all enjoyed your kayak while you were hiking.
Everyone here sends their best.  Can’t wait to hear about
the summit.
  Love Mom

Posted by: Jean on 7/21/2015 at 8:36 am

Andres - thank you for the great radio report - best to Wolf and the team and have a chill day! Feli (Wolf’s wife)

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/20/2015 at 8:30 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Check In from Moraine Camp

Hello from Moraine Camp! We just arrived to our cache, and are currently setting up our tents under the bluest skies so far on the trip. Spirits are high, and we presume we’ll be moving to high camp tomorrow. Everyone sends their regards and asks for the cheering to continue on!

Best,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and crew

Dear Team, I hope that the weather goods are smiling and that you are making steady progress - be safe from head to toe! Feli (Wolf’s wife)

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/20/2015 at 3:05 pm

K-nice work !!! Told you that blue skies await you !  Warm up get dry and conquer that summit:-).  Then get your butt back stateside !!! Be safe and have a blast.  Take care of your stomach bug.  M

Posted by: Michael on 7/19/2015 at 3:04 pm


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest at Basecamp

Good afternoon!

Not much to report today, a relaxing rest day at BC. We’re all looking forward to the improvement in the weather reported by the RMI office, to materialize just on time for our planned move uphill tomorrow. We will be checking in, hopefully from Moraine Camp, in 24 hours.

Best regards,

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & the Alpamayo team.

This is a message for Wolf and all the others of the team:
I wish you all the best, stay safe and the whole family is sending its best wishes from Berlin to all of you.
Stay safe and get back healthy, greetings from Germany,
Eva, Reinhard, Justus and Valentin
(nice of Wolf)

Posted by: Eva on 7/19/2015 at 8:35 am

Rumor has it Kara is soaking wet from the cold damp weather.  I think you will get some well deserved sun on Sunday/Mondsay.  Have a great climb to Moraine Camp and summit that baby on Tuesday will ya?

Posted by: Michael on 7/18/2015 at 9:04 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back from Carry and Acclimatization Hike

...And hello again from “Arwaycoccha” Camp, aka BC, for climbers. We just returned from Moraine Camp, where we went this morning for a carry and acclimatization hike. Covering the 800m of elevation, that rise straight up from camp, was nothing out of the ordinary for the team. Hardware, fuel and some food is already waiting for us when we start the move towards the top. We have been able to ditch the weather the last couple days, and only hope we can continue to do so, unless the Gods of Meteorology do it for us, and we can start to move under clear skies. We’re going to start our “chilling” program for the next 40 hours; we’ll let you know how that goes.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

K—Told ya I would post!!!!....Ok I like BC, much easier to pronounce and remember.  What’s up with the weather?  Missed your call, but I will have a phone near me at 2 PM ET.  Any good pics or is the cloud coverage tough?  I know, you need a weatherman to send you a pic!!!!  Be safe and have fun!!!!  M

Posted by: Michael on 7/17/2015 at 7:00 pm


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Reach Alpamayo Basecamp

Greetings from BC; the international RMI Alpamayo Team (a German, a Brazilian, 2 Americans, a Peruvian, and the one who writes, the Spaniard) has arrived to what will be our center of operations from now on. Tents are already up and we’re currently enjoying a cup of tea while contemplating wonders of geology, such as Artesonraju, Quitaraju, and of course, Alpamayo. Everyone is doing really well, and hiked to this camp quicker than this guide remembers. We’ll continue to enjoy today, before a very likely carry to Moraine Camp tomorrow. Stay tuned for more!

RMI Guide Elías deAndres Martos and Team.

 

Best of luck to everyone - especially ze German - thinking of you all and hoping that you are acclimatizing well! xoxoxo, Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/17/2015 at 3:12 pm

Happy to hear you have a strong team and are making good progress so enjoy the carry to Moraine camp. Best of luck to everyone (especially the Brazilian).

Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/17/2015 at 1:00 pm


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Camp at Icchiccocha

Good evening from Icchiccocha (small lake), where we’re camped for the night, on our way to Alpamayo Basecamp. We did bypass Llamacorral, the standard camp, and continued another couple kilometers up valley… and the reality is that this group is looking really good!!! So continuing on, and secluding ourselves from the different groups who are sharing the trail along this section of the astonishing Santa Cruz trek, wasn’t an issue. The cute note of the day, was the two dogs, beautiful but homeless puppies, who followed us all the way to camp, and are currently guarding our donkey pack. That’s it for the day, we will be checking in tomorrow from Basecamp.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Love the group photograph & thanks for the update, Elias. Give all my love to Taylor and everyone take good care of each other!  Best wishes!

Posted by: Kris on 7/16/2015 at 9:52 am

Best of luck to the whole team and much love and kisses to my husband Wolf - Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/16/2015 at 6:09 am

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