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Entries By elias de andres martos

July 18, 2015

Alpamayo Expedition

Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest at Basecamp

Good afternoon!

Not much to report today, a relaxing rest day at BC. We’re all looking forward to the improvement in the weather reported by the RMI office, to materialize just on time for our planned move uphill tomorrow. We will be checking in, hopefully from Moraine Camp, in 24 hours.

Best regards,

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & the Alpamayo team.

This is a message for Wolf and all the others of the team:
I wish you all the best, stay safe and the whole family is sending its best wishes from Berlin to all of you.
Stay safe and get back healthy, greetings from Germany,
Eva, Reinhard, Justus and Valentin
(nice of Wolf)

Posted by: Eva on 7/19/2015 at 8:35 am

Rumor has it Kara is soaking wet from the cold damp weather.  I think you will get some well deserved sun on Sunday/Mondsay.  Have a great climb to Moraine Camp and summit that baby on Tuesday will ya?

Posted by: Michael on 7/18/2015 at 9:04 pm

July 17, 2015

Alpamayo Expedition

Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back from Carry and Acclimatization Hike

...And hello again from “Arwaycoccha” Camp, aka BC, for climbers. We just returned from Moraine Camp, where we went this morning for a carry and acclimatization hike. Covering the 800m of elevation, that rise straight up from camp, was nothing out of the ordinary for the team. Hardware, fuel and some food is already waiting for us when we start the move towards the top. We have been able to ditch the weather the last couple days, and only hope we can continue to do so, unless the Gods of Meteorology do it for us, and we can start to move under clear skies. We’re going to start our “chilling” program for the next 40 hours; we’ll let you know how that goes.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

K—Told ya I would post!!!!....Ok I like BC, much easier to pronounce and remember.  What’s up with the weather?  Missed your call, but I will have a phone near me at 2 PM ET.  Any good pics or is the cloud coverage tough?  I know, you need a weatherman to send you a pic!!!!  Be safe and have fun!!!!  M

Posted by: Michael on 7/17/2015 at 7:00 pm

July 16, 2015

Alpamayo Expedition

Alpamayo: Elias and Team Reach Alpamayo Basecamp

Greetings from BC; the international RMI Alpamayo Team (a German, a Brazilian, 2 Americans, a Peruvian, and the one who writes, the Spaniard) has arrived to what will be our center of operations from now on. Tents are already up and we’re currently enjoying a cup of tea while contemplating wonders of geology, such as Artesonraju, Quitaraju, and of course, Alpamayo. Everyone is doing really well, and hiked to this camp quicker than this guide remembers. We’ll continue to enjoy today, before a very likely carry to Moraine Camp tomorrow. Stay tuned for more!

RMI Guide Elías deAndres Martos and Team.


Best of luck to everyone - especially ze German - thinking of you all and hoping that you are acclimatizing well! xoxoxo, Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/17/2015 at 3:12 pm

Happy to hear you have a strong team and are making good progress so enjoy the carry to Moraine camp. Best of luck to everyone (especially the Brazilian).

Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/17/2015 at 1:00 pm

July 15, 2015

Alpamayo Expedition

Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Camp at Icchiccocha

Good evening from Icchiccocha (small lake), where we’re camped for the night, on our way to Alpamayo Basecamp. We did bypass Llamacorral, the standard camp, and continued another couple kilometers up valley… and the reality is that this group is looking really good!!! So continuing on, and secluding ourselves from the different groups who are sharing the trail along this section of the astonishing Santa Cruz trek, wasn’t an issue. The cute note of the day, was the two dogs, beautiful but homeless puppies, who followed us all the way to camp, and are currently guarding our donkey pack. That’s it for the day, we will be checking in tomorrow from Basecamp.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Love the group photograph & thanks for the update, Elias. Give all my love to Taylor and everyone take good care of each other!  Best wishes!

Posted by: Kris on 7/16/2015 at 9:52 am

Best of luck to the whole team and much love and kisses to my husband Wolf - Feli

Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/16/2015 at 6:09 am

July 14, 2015

Alpamayo Expedition

Alpamayo: Elias & Team Begin Expedition in Peru

Greetings from Huaraz… Alpamayo expedition is kicking off!!!

Everyone arrived yesterday in Lima on schedule, and we made it to Huaraz less than 24 hours later. After checking into the Hotel Andino, early to bed was almost mandatory. Today we woke up to the clearest skies ever, and soon after a copious breakfast, we jumped in the van that took us to the Quebrada LLupa, where we’d venture on a morning stroll. What a better way to start acclimatizing than an active hike? Huaraz sits at 3,000m of elevation. Two hours after the van stopped, we found ourselves at the beautiful Churup Lake, “just” 100m above the summit of our beloved Mount Rainier. Lunch by the water with a casual talk and laughter to exercise the lungs without effort at such elevation, and back down to allow the body to rest and start adapting.

We packed our gear, took a nap, went for dinner and got excited about what’s ahead… tomorrow we’ll leave early towards Cahsapampa, to start the hike in towards Alpamayo BC. Our next post will be from the satellite phone. Stay toned and cheer for the team!!!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and the RMI Alpamayo team

July 12, 2015

Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Wrap up a Successful Seminar

Well… and our trip came to an end! Today the group departed Peru and most of our climbers will be arriving home, with the memories of two weeks in the Andes. Behind are the quebradas (valleys) the cochas (glacial lakes) and of course, the rajus (snow covered mountains) that had been home and playground during our climbing seminar in the Cordillera Blanca, the CAPITAL of Andean climbing, without a doubt.

We had an incredibly successful trip with motivated-to-learn and dedicated-to-perform climbers. Nevados Urus East, Ishinca and Copa proved a great progression for folks, while implementing expedition skills, culminated a trip that served as learning grounds for alpine climbing in the greatest ranges of the world. We leave you here some pictures while we already look forward to next year’s editions of our RMI Peru program!

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guides Elías deAndres Martos, Robby Young and team

July 9, 2015

Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Back to Copa Base Camp

Back at Base Camp! And What a day we had! Our ascent to the summit of Copa was everything but ordinary; intricate navigation to avoid a blocking bergschund, trail breaking at 20,000ft, steep slopes in the dark… and a corniced summit ridge, among other factors, provided a great graduation climb in this, our second Peru Seminar. We managed to descend to the safety of Base Camp in a long push, picking high camp on the way. Everyone is pretty tired, but feeling well and accomplished. We are turning to our tents now, and will check in again tomorrow from Huaraz.

Best regards,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

Sounds like quite the adventure with many new experiences, skills, stories and friendships for all!

Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/10/2015 at 6:15 am

July 9, 2015

Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Reach Summit of Copa!

Hello, this is the Elias calling from 200 meters below the summit of Copa, which we just tackled about half an hour ago. We wanted to get out of the wind and we’re taking a break, heading down. It is 10:16 am local time and we’ve had a really, really hard day of work to get to the top - intricate navigation and steep trail breaking to 6,200 meters which is the top of Copa (roughly the same as Denali). Now we’re heading down; we’re pretty happy. And we look forward to sending you a dispatch from our camp. We’re going to try to make it down to base camp, if we can, but our first objective will be high camp. So hope all is well at home and we’ll keep you posted in a few hours. Bye.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls from just below the summit of Copa in Peru.

Congratulations to the entire group! Sounds like an exciting and exhilarating climb! A special hello and congrats to my dad, Larry. Looking forward to hearing more!! -Jen

Posted by: Jen on 7/10/2015 at 6:17 am

Congratulations to Elias and whole team upon reaching summit of Copa - - what a week!

Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/9/2015 at 6:00 pm

July 8, 2015

Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Check in From Copa High Camp

Hello, this is the Peru Seminar and Elías and Robby and Peter with the team at High Camp on Copa. We are currently at 5,200 meters. The crew climbed really well this morning. It took us slightly less than 4 hours to move from Base Camp to here, and we are currently settled in, cooking dinner, replenishing water, and getting ready for what’s ahead tonight: the biggest of our objectives, Copa, at 6,200 meters. We’ll be checking in tomorrow, hopefully from the summit, and stay tuned for more. That’s it for now. Everybody’s doing really well, and we wish everything is good at home. Bye!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from High Camp on Copa, Peru.

Loved the audio message from Elias. Wish all a productive night’s rest before attempting your highest and final pinnacle!

Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/9/2015 at 8:40 am

July 7, 2015

Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru

Peru Seminar: Team Arrives at Base Camp of Nevado Copa

Greetings from Nevado Copa Basecamp, one of the most beautiful places on earth!(seriously) We all climbed this morning to this idyllic place, and ever since, our eyes have been put on the slopes of this Andean giant that sits before us. All is ready to launch tomorrow towards high camp, and our forecast is telling us we’ll have the best weather possible. Everyone is really well acclimated, and the good sports reign amongst the crew. Stay tuned for the progress of the graduation climb of this 2nd edition of our Peru Seminar.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

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