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Entries By eric frank


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Schellens, Frank & Team Hunker Down

It’s been a mixed day of weather here on the flanks of Ixta. The group awoke to clear skies and pleasant temps this morning, but an ominous forecast threatened that the good weather would probably not last.
We loaded our packs after breakfast and began climbing toward our high camp at 15,000ft. Slowly the wind began to pick up as we gained altitude until it was blowing 25-30mph when we arrived at camp. It was an easy decision to leave our tents packed and we opted instead to move into the nearby Refugio De Los Cien.
We are currently spread inside the Refugio listening to the wind blow in strong gusts. Every so often someone builds up the courage to venture outside to go to the bathroom but is quickly forced back inside.
We have our fingers crossed for improving weather, but the conditions right now don’t give us much hope for a summit bid tomorrow.

RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank


 


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Schellens, Frank & Team Head to Ixta

This morning we woke up, packed, and loaded into our van without coffee!! We made this bold move knowing that 40 minutes down the road we would be rewarded with perhaps the best breakfast buffet in Mexico. We ate our fill and loaded back in the van, now fully caffeinated, to drive onto Amecameca to resupply on water and fresh food. Here we also met our local guide, Alfreado, and our support team. After an hour we were back in the van winding up the mountain roads to Paso De Cortez and onto the Altzomoni Hut at the foot of Ixta. Our home in the clouds, at close to 13,000’ the Altzomoni Hut is a great step in our overall acclimatization schedule.

Unfortunately the weather is cloudy and windy so we haven’t yet been able to see Ixta; hopefully tomorrow. We are currently enjoying a delicious authentic taco dinner and discussing logistics of our hike to high camp tomorrow. Everyone is doing very well and having fun.  Keep your fingers crossed for good weather for us and thanks for following along.

The RMI Mexico Volcanoes Team
RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank

On The Map


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Schellens & Team Acclimate at La Malinche

The Mexican Volcanoes team got an early start this morning, and by 10am we were above the Mexico City fog and enjoying the mountains around us. A two-hour drive brought us to the high altitude resort of Malintzi, a collection of rustic cabins with million dollar views of the valley below.
Towering above Malintzi is the peak, La Malinche at 14,640ft. Recent storms have covered the upper flanks of the mountain with snow and as we hiked uphill this afternoon we noticed more and more snow. Eventually, around 13,300 ft, we felt that we had gone far enough and decided to head downhill.
Back in Malintzi we enjoyed an incredible dinner of carne asada.

Thanks for following along on our adventure.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Schellens, Frank & Team Gather in Mexico City

After long journeys from all over the US we finally gathered at our hotel in Mexico City.  Excitement and anticipation were high throughout the group as we discussed the upcoming trip. We then made our way through the noise Saturday night streets of Zona Rosa, Mexico City, to an authentic Mexican restaurant called, El Refugio Fonda. After a decadent meal, we picked our way back to the hotel to pack and get some rest before we set off on the first leg of our trip tomorrow. Thanks for following along with us here in Mexico.

RMI Guides Geoff Schellens & Eric Frank


Mt. Rainier: September 4th Update

The Mount Rainier summit climb teams, led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Zeb Blais, were unable to summit this morning and turned on the Disappointment Cleaver.  Although the weather was clear, calm, and cold, the avalanche danger and new snow kept the team from continuing their summit bid.  Both teams are safely back at Camp Muir and are planning a 9:00 a.m. departure to begin their descent to Paradise.

I know you are disappointed you didn’t get to summit, but we are so proud of all of you.  Can’t wait for you to come home so we can celebrate!

Posted by: Kim on 9/4/2015 at 8:07 am


Forbidden Peak: Eric Frank & Team Summit!

Hey, good afternoon. This is Eric Frank and Jeremy Davis calling from the top of Forbidden Peak! We had a great climb this morning. We took off just before 6:00 a.m. and hit the top right around noon. A good climb and seems like we are the only ones up here today. We will be heading down soon.

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Forbidden Peak summit


Mt. Shuksan: Eric Frank & Team Summit!

Good morning everyone. This is Eric Frank calling from the top of Mount Shuksan. We just climbed the Sulphide Glacier Route. Everything is going well. We walked up in the fog yesterday and didn’t have much visibility, but this morning was beautiful. We woke up to starry skies and had a nice climb up the glacier, and a great climb up the final summit pyramid. We are going to hang out for a few more minutes, and then make our way back down and rest, relax and hopefully get a nap in this afternoon. Take care. Bye.

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Mt. Shuksan summit!


Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Unable to Summit

RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning due to route conditions. The team climbed to 10,800’ before being forced to turn around. Despite being unable to summit, Eric and the team enjoyed and incredible meteor shower in the early hours of the morning.

The team is back at Camp Schurman and plans to spend the rest of the day doing crevasse rescue and ice climbing training around camp. Tomorrow the team will descend from Camp Schurman. We look forward to greeting them in Ashford tomorrow afternoon.


Mt. Rainier: August 12th Update

The Mount Rainier Four and Five Day Summit Climbs, led by Kel Rossiter and Ben Liken, reached about 12,300 feet before thunder and lightning forced the team to turn.  The team is safely back at Camp Muir and began their descent to Paradise at 9:00 a.m.  The skies are currently hazy with a fair amount of smoke in the skies from various wildfires in eastern part of Washington.  Geoff Schellens and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz turned from their summit attempt yesterday at 13,300 feet.  They will finish their day of training and be back at RMI Basecamp later this afternoon.  The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons, led by Eric Frank, checked in from camp this morning.  Their team is doing well, training today, and preparing for their summit bid in the morning.


Mt. Rainier: August 8th Summit!

RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Eric Frank led their Four Day Summit Climbs to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Billy reported lots of climbers on the route and light winds. The teams are enjoying some time on the summit before beginning their descent. We look forward to seeing the teams in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations climbers!

One of the highlights of my life, for sure. Thanks to the RMI team for the positive experience and seamless operation.

Posted by: Dan Colavito on 8/11/2015 at 12:12 pm

Awesome!! Hope it was all you dreamed of team!!!

Posted by: Gretchen on 8/8/2015 at 3:29 pm

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Mt Rainier Weather
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