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Entries By jake beren


Mt. Baker: Beren Recounts Climb of the North Ridge

Mt. Baker did not fail to impress our small team this week! We set out from Glacier, WA to make an attempt on Mt. Baker’s mighty North Ridge. Our approach put us at camp at the toe of the Coleman Glacier where we reviewed relevant climbing techniques and relaxed ourselves to sleep.

We awoke under the full moon and set out at dusk to begin the climb. A few hours of casual glacier travel found us at the base of the route. The forbidding clouds to the west stood down and we began our ascent. We gained the ridge and with some steep snow climbing and we were in business! Soon it was time to get into the meat of the route, the ice pitches. Under the snice (snow+ice) there was quality ice, so it didn’t take too much excavation to find good placements for our tools. As we topped out the ice pitches the clouds returned and soon we were relying on instruments to find the top. After a bit of thought-provoking route finding we navigated the jumbled glacier that guards the cumbre (summit) and celebrated efficiently before descending the Coleman route back to camp.

It was a great day with good company - all you can ask for in the mountains! Standing on top doesn’t hurt either.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Congratulation Jake + team..Thx again support on Rainier ‘12
..Walter / IN

Posted by: Walter Glover on 7/26/2016 at 5:13 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Reaches Summit

RMI Guide Jake Beren and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz route. Jake reported clear skies on the summit. The team will spend some time on the summit before making their descent. The team will spend one more night on the mountain before descending off the mountain tomorrow.

Way to climb!

Congrats on your climb and reaching the summit! Special kiddos to Chad and Tom for completing their first big climb!!

Posted by: Carrie Paben on 7/12/2016 at 5:57 pm

Congratulations on your climb.  Special congrats to Tom and Chad on their first big mountain climb.  Very proud of you!

Posted by: Trudy Colvin on 7/12/2016 at 3:37 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 6th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Paul Rachele reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Jake reported a “super beautiful” day with light winds, and a cloud layer at about 8,000’. The teams have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

Christina, I meant. Thanks!

Posted by: David Basinger on 7/7/2016 at 9:12 pm

Paul, Kristina, Jessi, Jake’s team,

Grateful for your expertise in guiding us to the top. Quite a 50th Birthday for Scott! Happy Birthday again Jen! Congrats to all of team “B” (we deserve an A).

Posted by: David Basinger on 7/7/2016 at 9:01 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 2nd Update

The summit climbs, led by Jake Beren and Paul Maier, successfully summitted Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams began their decent at 7:45 AM, reporting clouds above and below them.

All the best to all of you. Very excited for Anshul on his first expedition.

Posted by: Nitin Amin on 7/2/2016 at 7:33 pm

Keep going joe

Posted by: Cici on 7/2/2016 at 6:41 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Wrap Up Their Expedition

June 18, 2016 - 7:18 pm PT

It was anyone’s guess how today would turn out based on the snow piling up on our tents this morning. We dragged our feet a little before downing a cup of coffee and packing up our camp. We pushed down the glacier in a near whiteout, unsure if any planes would venture into the Alaska Range today. After a great trip the team was ready to head home, but we had to still wait and see what Denali had in store for us. As we descended, the visibility improved and it began to look like some fancy flying might just get us to a shower after all. The weather continued to cooperate and it wasn’t long before the awesome pilots at K2 had us back in the land of green forests, running water and options for food. And like that we left the Range after a few great weeks with our teammates.

It was an exceptional adventure, made great by the team who shared the effort to make it happen. Thanks to all involved for making it happen and we will all be home soon!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Thanks to the great guides who did such a wonderful job getting this team up to the summit and safely back down again.  Your knowledge of the mountain, the weather patterns, and your decisions about when to advance or when to stay put make all the difference.  Thanks a million to all of you.  You’re the best!!!

Posted by: Bud on 6/18/2016 at 8:48 pm


Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Jake Beren & Team Fly Off Glacier

RMI Guide Jake Beren and Team called at 2:25 pm PST to let us know they have flown off of the mountain and expect to land in Talkeetna shortly.

Congratulations Team!


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 7,800’

June 17, 2016 - 11:36 pm PT

What a big few days it’s been!  Forgive the radio silence, but our team has been busy getting some real climbing done. Since our glorious finale to our ascent, we descended back to 17 Camp and had a well deserved rest. We awoke early this morning with a motivating forecast to move and packed up our alpine home and began our descent. As we scooped up caches at 16,600, 14,200 and 11,000 our decision to beat feet downhill seemed well made. Winds and snow took over the upper camps and we made it to 7,800 camp where the air is thick and the temps are pleasant (by our new standards). We carved out a quick camp and are planning on an early morning to try and catch a flight tomorrow. Wish us one more day of decent weather and we’ll be back to tell all the details of one hell of an adventure! 

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Holy buckets!  “Wings on your feet” and all that!  I’m so glad the weather is holding and that your descent is going well.  You all deserve a much needed rest so get K2 on the line in preparation of the first leg back home!  I can’t WAIT to hear all about this wonderful adventure!  Thank you again to God and to you three very accomplished and knowledgeable guides!  You’re the BEST!!!  Bird

Posted by: Bird on 6/18/2016 at 6:53 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Call from the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 6:07 PM PT

Hello from the top of Denali. We were lucky today and the mountain let us to the tip top. We are all doing fantastically well, the weather is just about perfect and we will soon start our descent. But we just wanted to check in, we will enjoy the views for a little bit longer, but the team has done great, everyone worked super hard. I’m quite proud of all of them. We will give you a shout from the lowlands.  Take care all.

RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Denali, Alaska.

On The Map

Congratulations to the whole team!  Fantastic news Jason, I’m looking forward to hearing all about your experience.  Safe descent and “slán abhaile” (Irish for safe home).  Fr Joseph

Posted by: Fr Joseph on 6/17/2016 at 11:16 pm

WoooooHooooooo!!!!!
Way to go all!!
Safe downclimb and tasty beer!

Posted by: Jones-Hartmans on 6/17/2016 at 8:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT

The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we’re gonna need it!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent.  I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team.  Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT

With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm

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