Entries By levi kepsel
Hi all, today kicked off the official start of the second
RMI Denali expedition of the 2013 season! We spent the day dealing with the more unsavory and tedious parts of mountain climbing in our preparation for tomorrow's flight into the range. Namely, we checked (and re-checked) gear, completed our orientation and permitting process with the NPS, and packed up and weighed all of our food and equipment for loading the planes. We enjoyed a team dinner on what is hopefully our last evening in civilization. The team is psyched, strong, and maybe a bit nervous but certainly ready to go - we just need the weather to cooperate tomorrow morning so we can get into Basecamp.
we'll see...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
After our beautiful bluebird day on Mount Frances we went to bed satisfied with our climbing. We spent our last full day dialing in rescue techniques and ice climbing in crevasses.
Yesterday we woke up early for our flight back to Talkeetna and enjoyed a celebratory toast. A sweet success! Everybody left for home with lots of knowledge on modern climbing techniques and as more experienced climbers.
Thank you very much team for the great times in the Alaska Range and I'm already looking forward to next year's
Alpine Seminar.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin
May 8, 2013
Posted by: Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Our attempt on Mt. Francis was great.
We were making good time up the southeast ridge until conditions got really icy. We climbed a pitch of ice and then we made a group decision of turning back down.
The views, as well as the learning experience, were incredible. Now we are all back in camp enjoying a hot cup of tea.
Today we did our last
seminar review and will be starting to pack for tomorrow's flight back to Talkeetna.
Looking forward to a shower and a big salad.
RMI Guide Andres Marin
On The Map
May 7, 2013
Posted by: Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Today we put what we've learned the last few days into action. We headed to a crevasse and practiced our rescue techniques using the complete system.
Going down in the crevasse was an incredible experience for everyone. It was written all over the team's faces in the great photos and big smiles that made this day just fantastic.
We are going to bed early and hoping for good weather for our summit attempt to the East ridge of
Mt. Francis.
Wish us luck.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin
On The Map
This place just keeps getting better and better. Today we climbed
Radio Tower!!! The weather was incredible and the views just fantastic.
We climbed this peak via the southside and gained the east ridge to the top. The entire group had the chance to learn a lot and had a great time while climbing our first summit.
After a long day we are eating dinner and planning a day of ice climbing and crevasse rescue that we have in front of us.
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the
Alaska Alpine Seminar
May 5, 2013
Posted by: Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Today we woke up with a blue skies and great temperatures, way different than what the weather was predicting.
Quickly we got ready and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork. Learning about glacier travel and the different terrain features with these incredible views is spectacular. What an environment to learn in! While at the glacier we checked our approach for
Radio Tower, which we are hoping to climb tomorrow.
All and all one more great day in a beautiful place.
Everybody in the group sends a big hello, hugs and kisses to friends and family.
All the best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the
Alaska Alpine Seminar
On The Map
Our trip just keeps getting better and better.
Today we woke up with a crispy couple of new inches of snow in one of the most beautiful places in Earth,
Alaska. We enjoyed breakfast with our teammates and got ready to learn about snow anchors, belay systems and other technical systems. The weather is little stormy so we decided to stay around camp to train today.
After lunch we helped pack the bush plane runway and got to move our legs and exercise for a bit. The group is doing great and enjoy each other's company. Tomorrow we are hoping for a good window of weather to go climb.
All best from
RMI Guide Andres Marin &the
Alaska Alpine seminar
On The Map
May 2, 2013
Posted by: Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
Hello from the
RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar – Alpine Team! The weather cooperated yesterday and we had the opportunity to fly into Basecamp. Everybody was impressed by the great views. Flying into the Alaska Range is remarkable.
Once in
Basecamp we got busy setting up our camp, making dinner, and finally crawling into our tents after a long day.
Today we will be staying relatively close to camp doing some technical training. Its going to be a fun day!!!!
RMI Guide Andres Marin
On The Map
The
Alaska season has begun!
We all met yesterday at the airport and drove through Wasilla to pick up some food items to take on our
seminar. After a great night in Talkeetna, we ate breakfast, and began organizing our equipment in preparation of flying on the glacier.
I'm glad we were so prepared. After a pretty wintry day in Talkeetna, we received news that we are clear for takeoff! We are loading the plane now. There is always the possibility that the weather may turn and we'll be headed back to Talkeetna but for now, all systems are clear. Stay tuned...
All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the
Alaska Alpine Seminar.
On The Map
RMI Guide Andres Marin radioed from Camp Muir this morning. The
Four Day Summit Climb teams were tucked safely in the bunks at Camp Muir after a windy night. The cold temperatures, new snow and wind prevented the groups from making a summit attempt this morning. At 8:30 a.m. they began their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise. They will return to Ashford in the early afternoon.
Previous Page
Glad the team finally made in to the glacier. Have a great journey!
Kristan
Posted by: Kristan on 5/19/2013 at 3:30 pm
View All Comments