Entries By tyler jones
June 6, 2016
June 5, 2016 - 9:46 p.m. PDT
A clear night allowed the radiant heat from yesterday to escape, meaning quite the cool and crisp morning was upon us. When temperatures drop well below zero as they did this morning, it is another level of cold. There is a threshold where the mouths of our insulated Nalgene bottles freeze over, and our 12-liter aluminum water pots in the kitchen become lined with a thick layer of ice all around.
The clear morning lured some climbers and neighbors to break camp and begin a push up to high camp. Within a few hours though, the forecast proved accurate as Denali began to cap over and a storm develop. Light to moderate winds here at 14 camp, but still cold and no real warming yet with increasing snowfall intensity. The “nowcast” and short lived morning sun surely tricked those climbers as they were turned around just a thousand feet up by extreme cold and back in camp by noon.
Only becoming stronger with continued acclimatization, and tall snow-brick walls fortifying the windward sides of our homestead, we are content with staying put. Our camp now sits in a wind eddy as gusts strong enough to bend trees push into our walls and curl over as we lay in the tents and nap. Nice to have spent a few days dialing in our camp! The team is ready and excited to make a move once the mountain allows, but only with a high safety margin and good style. For now though we’ll keep kickin’ it at camp: remodeling, relaxing, pancake eating, and cold hard chilling until the weather changes.
Also worth noting was last nights impromptu trip to “The Edge of the World”. A short walk across Genet Basin brought us to an amazing vista overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier, Mount Hunter and Foraker, and a large portion of the route we traveled in the past week. Evening light and periodic clearing made for a special view. Snow crystals flickered and glittered through the gaps of misty clouds floating 5,000’ above the ominous cracks and towering walls of the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Learning how to stay busy during our first real “storm day” isn’t so bad!
On The Map
Waffles please! I know you just came for the waffles.
Good thing you’ve had Chicago training for extreme negative temperatures, powerful gusts of wind, and staying home and napping when you’re scheduled to work. I hope your beard is full enough now to keep you warm while giving you a nice sunglasses tan. The goggles do nothing!
Don’t stick your tongue to anything metal.
Posted by: Jacket on 6/6/2016 at 8:29 pm
to Bob: Amelia and Chet think your trip is awesome and that you are crazy. it sounds “so cool” and Uncle Bob is “the best” can’t wait to talk to you when you get back. dad is in boulder/denver and vail next week (you know why). we are puling for you uncle bob.
Posted by: mark mullen on 6/6/2016 at 7:58 pm
June 4, 2016
June 4, 2016 - 5:02 pm PT
After yesterday’s mission caching our summit kits at the top of the fixed lines, the crew is ready for a rest day. We went to bed last night to clear skies and low valley clouds rolling around Foraker and awoke to more perfect views above. Many of the slopes around camp are accruing ski tracks, and providing great entertainment!
Today’s breakfast was high class gourmet, with salmon and cream cheese bagels and a side of cheesy bacon hash browns. The fresh food has spirits high as we hope for the great weather to continue. Until then we’ll continue to chill and watch skiers enjoy the fresh snow.
On The Map
You guys are moving impressively fast. Keep listening to Tyler (especially about putting on your puffy pants before coming into the cook tent) and he will get you to the top!
- Devin Smith (Tyler Jones Denali University, class of ‘15)
Posted by: Devin Smith on 6/6/2016 at 8:10 am
Your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.
When’s your next coffee break? While you are resting, I am staying very productive, and going to church. Watching skiers sounds fun; typical powder hounds.
Remember, if we can do it, so can you! What I’m saying is, I’ll give you the money to keep going. It seems like they’re feeding you well, but if you’re still hungry when you get back, we can go to Arby’s.
Posted by: Mrs. Oxygen on 6/6/2016 at 12:15 am
June 3, 2016
June 3, 2016 - 8:32 pm PT
Today was another cold morning with a quick breakfast. We shouldered our loads for the carry to above the fixed lines at 16,200ft. The team climbed well and efficiently. The weather was white, like walking in a milk jug, and the wind light until the last few moments when we pulled up on the ridge of the West Buttress the brisk wind and gray sky had us in our biggest warmest layers. We quickly dug a cache and dropped back onto the fixed lines where the wind calmed and we made our way back to camp for a relaxing afternoon and a trip meal highlight of quesadillas with fresh veggies and all the fixings. Tonight the team will sleep well and we are planning a rest day tomorrow with a short acclimatization hike to the Edge of the World, which is on of the nicest vistas in all of the Alaska range. The final kit of summit gear and food is stashed up high, and we’re ready to make the push once the weather allows. Thanks for following along.
On The Map
June the Fourth Be With You
Posted by: Han Duet on 6/5/2016 at 10:59 pm
Congrats guys on what sounds like a cold tough day! You’re almost there! I’m so inspired by all your hard work trekking this big mountain.
Ongun sending you all the warmth from NYC and all my hugs and kisses! I hope you’re doing well I can’t wait to see you!
I am keeping busy looking at buildings and neighborhoods around the city and think I may have found a great potential option for our next home! For now though I hope you are enjoying your mountain home. You’re living in a corner of this world very few have and will ever see! So exclusive and cool lol. I can’t wait to hear all about it:)
Keep it up team and stay warm and safe!
Posted by: karina on 6/4/2016 at 1:56 pm
June 2, 2016
June 2, 2016 - 9:41 p.m. PDT
Rest, relaxation, and ready! We have had a great first day at 14,200ft camp. We all enjoyed the great feeling of not having to be up early. The team rolled out of the sleeping bag only when the suns rays chased us to the cook house. A deluxe meal of breakfast burritos, coffee, and socializing. Full and happy most of us went back to our tent for relaxing. The afternoon was spent training for our travels up the headwall and on to the West Buttress proper. With a strong and healthy team, we are hoping to put a cache of food and fuel in above 16,000ft tomorrow, weather permitting. This will be one of the final stages of preparation before we try our summit push. Things are going well so far and we thank you all for your support, warm thought, and positive vibes. One day at a time!
Wow! First day at 14 and you already went up the fixed lines to get this photo from above camp! Go getters! ;)
You’re welcome to some warm air from Ashford—93 today and freezing levels are bumping up to 14k for a few days.
Schlax: Ask Tyler if he’ll let you climb Washburn’s Thumb. Word on the street is that it goes at something like v5.
Posted by: Eric Schafer on 6/3/2016 at 8:38 pm
Here are 3 quotes I found that I liked that relate to mountaineering. I’m hoping to give you some inspiration for the push ahead. Stay focused and safe.
Ongun sending you all my love and hugs :)
“Great things are done when men and mountains meet; ” William Blake
A few hours’ mountain climbing make of a rogue and a saint two fairly equal creatures. Tiredness is the shortest path to equality and fraternity — and sleep finally adds to them liberty.
Friedrich Nietzsche, Human, All Too Human
“The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.”
― John Muir
Posted by: Karina on 6/3/2016 at 12:22 pm
June 2, 2016
June 1, 2016 - 10:36 p.m. PDT
Today was one of the more work intensive days of the trip thus far. Up at 6:00 a.m., the same time as yesterday’s move, we were tasked with a little more effort to break down camp and hit the trail. The slight overnight cloud deck a few thousand feet above us had kept some heat locked in and today’s wake up did not feel nearly as chilled as yesterday with the clear sky. One of the days highlights was seeing the shadow of Denali painted on the thin cloud deck above us, the cloud was thin enough to let a bit of light through but just thick enough to keep the heat in. So cool. The unique lighting didn’t end though, as we made our way up into the Polo Fields we chased the shadow all the way to our second break. Snowflake flurries continued as wispy clouds moved over the high ridge and the morning sunlight barely cresting over Denali made walking today especially enjoyable.
Before we knew it we were at 14 Camp, making even better time than yesterday. Quite impressive considering it was our second big climb at altitude in a row! The real work just begins though as we still need to claim our homestead. A nice parcel with beachfront views of Hunter and Foraker will do! Tents stacked tight: 3 in a row, our cook tent, and finally guide tent at the edge of the hill. Plenty of old lots were available as most groups moved up yesterday to high camp. We chose to stake out our own - away from the crowds and with our own custom landscaping! We are settled in here at 14,200’, looking forward to tomorrow’s rest day and we’ll see what opportunities the weather brings us. Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Blake Votilla and team
On The Map
High places are only for those brave enough to follow their dreams! You guys will never be the same walking this close to the heavens. We hope the wind stands still and the snow is light on your summit day. Looking forward to a safe return and some well deserved beach time in the OBX! We can tell from the blog and pictures that achieving your goal is close. Be safe and stay focused.
Carter and Kay Adams
Posted by: Carter Adams on 6/2/2016 at 4:27 pm
haha very good question—has the chocolate supply run out?
Posted by: karina on 6/2/2016 at 1:30 pm
May 31, 2016
May 31, 2016 - 5:52 pm PT
Were back from our biggest day so far on this expedition. The train is very much on the track as we moved efficiently with perfect weather. The cold, crisp, and breathless air provided a flawless day. Not to mention the the rockstar crew we are climbing with - smooth operators.
The route conditions from 11,200 - 14,200 ft camp are groomer. The views of the surrounding ridges, peaks, glaciers and distant rivers are proof we came to one of the most inspiring corners of the world. Now that we’re back to camp, we will spend the afternoon chilling with our groceries and hydrating in hopes the splendid weather will continue. Tomorrow we look to move up to 14,200 ft camp and will keep you all in the loop as to our progress.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
Safe travels everyone! It looks so beautiful! Love to Michael and the rest of the team!
Posted by: Anne Tyler Adams on 6/2/2016 at 9:57 am
Thinking of my nephew Michael Adams and his team of adventure seekers. You are all being prayed for each day - for a wonderful and safe journey. Each day is new…make it great!
Posted by: Aunt Susan (Susan Lawrence) on 6/2/2016 at 7:06 am
May 31, 2016
May 30, 2016 - 7:39 pm PT
With just a day of active rest scheduled, the team was able to sleep in. Most all of us slept like rocks, with a pitter patter of fresh snow making the perfect background noise. Once we finally rolled out of bed, a lazy breakfast of bacon, cheese and hash-brown wraps with a half bagel on the side and a hot drink or two got us ready for our back carry. The whole group was excited to be reunited with our buried goods; as many of us were craving some snack hidden in the snow.
11 Camp remains a weather quandary with reports of clear skies at both fourteen and Base Camps. Yet the fresh six inches of snow is welcome as it has brought our camp back to its pristine status. For now we’ll continue to chill and listen to the snow fall!
On The Map
wow so much snow! Ongun I’m sending you my warmest hug!! I hope you can rest well and take care of yourself to reboot for more trekking. Miss you so much and hope you are having an amazing adventure!
Posted by: karina on 5/31/2016 at 10:06 am
I’m bragging to everyone I meet about your expedition. Be #fearless, #strong, and #raw because people are following along. No pressure.
As you know, you’re missing many important newsfeeds. Here’s a quick summary:
Your last post has over 40 likes (not bad) and some witty comments. Beach volleyball season started, and at least 20 people’s Memorial Day weekend involved boats (that sounds low?). Curry v Cavs has inspired poetry. Training and attendance continues for marathons, triathlons, weddings. Surprisingly low on selfies & baby pics.
Finally, you’ve missed 753 Inspirational Quotes. Some good ones:
“No matter where you are in your journey, you’re exactly where you need to be.” - Oprah
“Believe you can and you’re halfway there.” - T. Roosevelt
Posted by: Mary on 5/31/2016 at 9:49 am
May 29, 2016
May 29, 2016 - 2:38 p.m. PDT
Tents were broken down early this morning. The team hit the trail a quarter before five after a 3:00 am wake up and a quick breakfast. The midnight sun cast a soft blanket of gold and pink on the north faces of Hunter, Foraker, and the Kiahiltna Dome. Low winds, cool temps, and the unique lighting of a summer Alaskan night made for an enjoyable start to the morning walk. These conditions were especially welcome after having to deal with 25 mph head winds on our carry day two days ago.
We made efficient stops and good time to our cache site and beyond up to 11 camp. Upon arrival, camp saw it’s first daylight as other groups began their ascent up the mountain. Some renovations, and more digging and our camp is up and ready for whatever the mountain throws at us! We will be all restocked and digging deep in the lunch sacks hopefully buy this time tomorrow and will keep you updated.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Inquiring minds want to know - Did you make it to the top?
Posted by: Dad on 5/31/2016 at 7:15 am
These pictures look amazing- it’s a winter wonderland on the mountain there is so much snow! Tyler’s description of the sunrise sounds beautiful. What an early start for the day—3am—like army style! I hope youre staying warm and taking care of your backs and shoulders from the carry days!
I wanted to give a quick hello to Ongun- I miss you!! I’ve been reading the newspapers in the morning that are coming for you—lets see if in 3 weeks I become converted to reading the newspaper in its paper form :) sending the warmer temps from NYC your way and all my hugs.
Have fun team, stay strong and keep sending those gorgeous photos and updates.
Posted by: Karina on 5/29/2016 at 8:45 pm
May 27, 2016
May 27, 2016 - 6:06 pm PT
We woke up this morning to blustery but clear skies. With ridge top winds ripping all around us we decided to dig in before getting underway. The team learned about wall building and tidying up camp before separating all of their gear to be carried. Then we were off! Bright skies and a stiff breeze gave us great conditions to schlep our loads up toward Kahiltna Pass. The great visibility highlighted the big three: Hunter, Foraker and Denali standing tall against the wind. After a quick transition we had a load of gear stashed in the ground and were returning back to camp to hide away for the rest of the day.
Let’s Breck !
Posted by: Dad on 5/29/2016 at 11:10 am
Hi Tyler -
Good luck with this years team! I still have great memories of our 2011 and 2012 expeditions.
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/29/2016 at 10:45 am
May 27, 2016
May 26, 2016 - 10:04 p.m. PDT
After lots of anticipation we are here on the mountain!! This morning we had our final meal at the roadhouse, followed by good weather news from the pilots at the K2 hangar. The team changed from our street clothes to our action suits and before we knew it we were in the air flying to the glacier. We landed and assembled our mountain of gear in to individual loads. With a nice cloud cover and cool temps we made the decision to get the train moving! Travel was pleasant, though a bit hot when the sun started to peek through near our first camp. We have a strong team and everyone did a fabulous job. We made a tasty meal and are bedding down after a very productive day. Will keep you updated!
Godspeed to the top!
Many prayers going up from Virginia for the team.
Michael we cannot wait to hear about the Denali adventure.
Mom and I think about you everyday.
It looks amazing form the pictures and we know you are loving it.
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Carter And Kay Adams on 5/28/2016 at 3:29 pm
Hope you are all having a great and Safe time, look for your return tonight 5/28/16 and hearing all about it.
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Bert on 5/28/2016 at 10:19 am