Entries By tyler jones
June 14, 2015
Sunday, June 14, 2015 - 6:37 pm PT
At last, our patience has paid off. After eight nights at 14 Camp, we finally got the weather today to move our camp up the West Buttress to our high camp at 17,200 feet. The team did great work, traveling up the fixed lines, along the Buttress proper, past Washburn’s Thumb, and into camp.
Upon our arrival the team was greeted by blustery winds so we immediately put all of our wall building practice to good use and hammered out a camp in short time. Now we’re tucked out of the weather and cooking an early dinner to get ready for a big day tomorrow. If the weather looks good in the morning, we plan on making our summit push!
The team is looking strong and everyone is excited to see the last 18 days of hard work pay off. Time for an early evening, and hopefully the next time you hear from us will be from the top of North America!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team
On The Map
Ken your almost there. Keep safe and don’t give up. The view from up there is breath taking, enjoy. Jose
Posted by: Jose Gonzalez on 6/15/2015 at 4:18 pm
18 days of hard work….at D.G.‘s rate you guys are going to be minted!!
Best of luck in the coming days!
Posted by: Will Ivy on 6/15/2015 at 3:24 pm
June 13, 2015
June 13, 2015 4:31pm PST
The final day of waiting and preparation… We hope! Today is a calm and sunny day at 14 camp, although the small plumes of snow still sail above us on the West Buttress ridge and upper mountain. With groups of climbers from around the world stacking up over the last week of poor weather, the headwall and fixed lines were crawling with dozens of folks on the move—Making for one full boat on the route today. Our decision to stall and let the hoards move on and winds continue to die down will hopefully give us a smooth and ultimately safer move. We want to work smarter not harder and like a raven sailing on the afternoon thermals give our team the best and smoothest climb we at RMI can offer.
Thank you all for the comments, wish us luck and we hope to check in from high camp tomorrow! Cheers!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Ken, you guys are so close! Sounds like you have a. Dry smart guide and a great team. I know you are all about working smarter and not harder. We learn a lot together at work, i can’t wait to all of the life lessons and self discover you must be experiencing on this trip. Praying for clear ski so you and your team can work smart and make it to the top.
Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/13/2015 at 9:40 pm
D.G., Prayers for success and safety to all. Ted has his fingers crossed. Love you, Mom
Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 6/13/2015 at 7:46 pm
June 13, 2015
Friday June 12th 10:10 pm PT
Fortress at 14k on Mount McKinley!
Today was a clear day but the winds raged as the high pressure slowly comes our way!
The fortress of snow-block walls now fully encloses our tents and cook house with an entry straight from stone hedge! A giant block caps the archway leading into our dojo!
The wind still whips as plumes of blowing snow briefly create little to no visibility in camp. A blue bird day that is hampered by a ground blizzard. If you ask me this is what the experience of Denali is all about. In the next few days the wind will likely subside and crystal clear skies, warm and breathless air will remain. Fingers crossed we will get our perfect day to climb and stand atop the highest point in North America. Till then we’ll hang low in our tents basking in our BO stir fry;).
June 11, 2015
Thursday June 11th 5:50 pm PT
Again we remain at 14,000 foot camp as we wait for the weather to turn for a summit bid. The snow keeps coming down around here like coconut flakes sprinkled on ice cream.
We did take advantage of a short break in the clouds this morning to walk to the Edge of the World, a viewpoint to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna several thousand feet below. Waddling out onto the saddle rock is an existential experience indeed, having all that air underneath you really makes you feel alive!
After our trek to the Edge of the World, we enjoyed a nice mid-morning brunch. With chilly temperatures and a light breeze we crawled back into our tents for an afternoon reading session. A few hours later we greeted Jake’s team, who carried from 11K Camp. It was nice to see his team, they all seemed to be doing well.
Keep sending good weather vibes our way!
Ken we are all still pulling for you. I know you are having a great time seeing some amazing sights. Can’t wait to hear about it when you get back. Praying for good weather so you can make that summit. Dennis
Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/12/2015 at 5:46 pm
Ken, here’s a poem for you and the team…
And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. Anais Nin
Posted by: Anna Fisher on 6/12/2015 at 2:01 pm
June 11, 2015
Wednesday June 10th 5:30 pm PT
Today brings more snow to Mt. McKinley at 14,000ft. After coffee, bagels and bacon everyone spent a few hours lounging in their tents before starting the afternoon projects. The camp project consisted of building an enclosed toilet. A true architectural feat, I might add. The secondary project was a remodel of the posh tent, which consisted of lowering the floor to give us a bit more headroom.
Our camp looks great and hopefully we will get some good weather coming our way this weekend.
On The Map
Sounds like the Taj Ma Staul is the evnv of camp 14 again now to stand guard to keep everyone else from using it. Hope the weather gets better for you guys so wish I was there. Have a safe and fun climb.
Posted by: Dave Johnson on 6/11/2015 at 12:37 pm
June 9, 2015
June 9, 2015, 4:22 pm PT
Last night we had a fiesta with the Upper West Rib team. It was a posh full of laughs, stories, and quesadillas.
This morning we slept in and enjoyed a bagel and salmon breakfast over stories and Via coffee. The team spent most of the day in the posh battling it out at Phase Ten (a card game).
The rest of the day has been spent lounging and grazing on food. We are hoping for some good weather this weekend and with good neighbors, good food, and some good tunes we are sitting pretty up here at 14,000’.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
We miss you so much and can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Hope you’re kicking everyone’s butt at phase ten and taking lots of pictures!
See you soon!
Love Jennifer, Lila & Owen
Posted by: Jen on 6/12/2015 at 11:24 am
Mark & Dave,
Hey boys, glad to hear you guys are steadily making your way to the top! We are on the blog every chance we get, hoping for the next post on how you guys are doing and Lila love to tell me that “Daddy is hiking in the mountains with Unkey Dave”
Posted by: Jennifer on 6/11/2015 at 8:53 pm
June 8, 2015
June 8, 2015, 4:37 pm PT
Firing the Fixed lines!
Today it was a good day. We woke in the bitter cold at 14 camp and slowly rose from our warm down feathers. With coffee and a bowl of granola we clipped in to our ropes. Finding rather pleasant walking conditions, we smoothly flowed up the slopes below the Headwall then gained the fixed lines up to 16,200ft. Our last 20 minutes up the lines provided brisk winds and motivated our super strong team to depart the lines and pass the ridge where the winds became a light breeze. This was a welcome way to spend our break and unload our final cache of food and fuel for our summit push!
The team prepared for the descent back down in the brisk wind. With the confidence of great mountaineers we smoothly cruised down to our camp. Then a session with our grand lunch sacks along with a well deserved afternoon nap.
The evening will be a group dinner with the West Rib crew. Likely to consist of big fried quesadillas laughter and friendships forged!
Till tomorrow, Positive Vibes!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann & Chase Nelson
On The Map
We’re all pulling for you and the team. Enjoy your last few days on the mountain.Looking forward to all the stories.
Posted by: Jim Rowe on 6/9/2015 at 4:55 pm
Ken, you and the team are getting closer every day. I am excited for you. Hang in there, enjoy the journey as you pursue that dream. Thoughts, prayers, and positive vibes all headed your way.
Posted by: Dennis on 6/9/2015 at 7:57 am
June 7, 2015
June 7, 2015, 9:45 pm PT
After surviving our first chilly night at 14K Camp, everyone walked into the posh this morning to the sweet smell of blueberry pancakes. Cooking at 14,000ft is quite difficult on any day but Tyler made pancakes that would have made Grandpa Jerry proud.
Post breakfast we took advantage of the nice weather and prepared our camp for a nuclear winter. Hopefully the weather will stay nice but if not we are prepared for the worst. After our wall building session we did some more training for the upper mountain.
The guides set up a fixed-line obstacle course that everyone marched around in like a group of trained gorillas.
Tomorrow we hope to carry to the top of the fixed lines, but as always, we will see what Mother Nature brings.
Congrats to all for your new found height! I am in awe of all. Went golfing in Victor Utah today. Sunny and 76 is good anywhere I suppose
Posted by: Frank Suring on 6/8/2015 at 4:26 pm
Everyone I know that knows you has their fingers crossed for good weather to hold.
Posted by: Mike Taylor on 6/8/2015 at 8:43 am
June 7, 2015
Saturday, June 6th 10:18 p.m. PT
On the Road again!
Yes, today we got to move up into the Genet Basin! We are currently snuggled up in our sleeping bags at McKinley’s 14K Camp. Everyone did an excellent job today and climbed quite strong.
We had a leisurely departure from 11K waiting for the perfect time of day. There was a lot of traffic on the route due to lots of teams sitting out this storm at 11K. However, with our strong group Tyler was able to giraffe neck around to see what was ahead and plan some strategic breaks in order to avoid the congestion.
We arrived at camp around 4:15pm and everyone was quite efficient setting up camp. After a hard days work, everyone enjoyed many spatulas of Annie’s Mac and cheese with crispy bacon.
We are happy to have made the move and will check in again tomorrow!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann and Chase Nelson
On The Map
Hi Ken, hope your feeling great. The top looks close, be sure to smell the flowers along the way. Ha! Happy hiking!
Posted by: Anna Fisher on 6/7/2015 at 9:51 pm
D.G. looks like you are moving on up. Its a beautiful Sunday in the Bluegrass. Said a prayer for safe climbing for you and all the teams this morning at church. Love you…Mom
Posted by: Caroline on 6/7/2015 at 9:01 am
June 5, 2015
June 5, 2015 3:00pm PST
Yep, it’s still snowing here at 11k camp and the holding pattern…continues. It’s deep and fluffy around here! We had to get our periscopes out this morning to escape the tent. The day has been spent waddling like platypuses from our tents to the posh to the bathroom. The team has also spent our time maintaining our camp, shoveling freshly drifted snow, building and rebuilding walls around our tents. Despite the snowpocolypse, spirits have been kept high with card games, jokes, rapping and stories.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Yo Daddy! I am one of the lucky few who has seen a Triple Crown winner run the Derby! In person! American Pharaoh won the Belmont today and it was exciting! Sounds like you’ve got loads of snow. Boychoir spring concert was today and we have polo tomorrow and then a party for Miss Vicki.
Posted by: Oz on 6/6/2015 at 7:07 pm
hello snow jockeys, American Pharoah wins the triple crown
Posted by: Richard Larscheid on 6/6/2015 at 4:17 pm