Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren & Team Rest & Refuel at 17,000’ Camp

June 18, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Tuesday, June 18 , 2013 What a day yesterday was! We were the only team to climb our route and truly enjoyed having the whole day to ourselves. It was a touch windy, but with warm air temps, it was perfectly manageable. The team climbed strong and stood on top in the afternoon with perfect visibility were treated to spectacular views the whole way up. The summit day is only possible with a combination of factors all coming together and we did a great job matching ourselves to the mountain. Bravo everyone! Today really makes our call to go for it yesterday seem like the right one. The wind picked up last night and has been blowing hard ever since. We have been hanging out and resting at 17 camp and once the wind dies down we will tackle the Buttress and start the cruise home. We are going to wait a bit and maybe take off tomorrow after this spike in wind speed. For now we could use the rest after a few huge days. Looking forward to seeing everyone as soon as Denali grants us safe passage. RMI Guides Jake, Leon, and Josh

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We’re glad you all made it to the summit and the weather held! It must seem absolutely religious if the pictures are any hint. Come back safely and be sure to tip the guides—they’re the best.
Il Padrino

Posted by: R.B. on 6/19/2013 at 4:04 pm

Congrats Josh on getting to the summit your first try. Post some pics -Richard Boucher

Posted by: richard a boucher on 6/19/2013 at 7:33 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Return to High Camp

June 18, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, June 17, 2013 Hello everyone. We made it back to camp after a good day of climbing. Everybody is safe and sound. We're just finishing up a little dinner before turning in for a little bit. Looks like we just beat the storm. We'll move a little lower tomorrow. That's all for now. RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after their successful summit.

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

June 17, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

Monday, June 17, 2013 Hello, this is Jake with RMI #5 standing on top of Denali with an awesome crew on an absolutely beautiful day. We'll give a shout when we get down but it doesn't get too much better than this. Thanks everybody for the support, and will be checking in from down low. Over and out. RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the Mt. McKinley summit!

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Wow!!! So totally impressive and so happy for the whole team. Congratulations on a great trip up and have a safe trip down!

Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/19/2013 at 10:14 am

We woke up on the East Coast to your most welcome audio clip from on high. How sweet the sound!

Posted by: Bill and Kathleen on 6/18/2013 at 5:30 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen And Team Settle in At 11,000’

June 17, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, June 17, 2013 We are on the mountain! After walking up the glacier on our long approach, this camp feels like we are actually starting to make some headway towards the top. We will be at this 11,000' camp for a minimum of three nights, so we are dug in pretty solidly. The plan for tomorrow is to do a back carry. This means we will walk back down to our cache at 10,000', dig it up, and then bring it back up to our new camp at 11,000 ft. It shouldn't be too hard of a day, but it is very important in our acclimatization scheme. Although there are no bad views in this place, we have an amazing view from this camp. From a safe distance, we get to watch some giant ice cliffs calving off some large chunks. The heat of the nice weather days has made for some dynamic snow and ice conditions. Summit Team 6! Led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Please tell Cindee she’s a bad-a$$ and that Zoot and Ruby miss her and that we don’t know the internet passcode! Hahaha. The whole team is an inspiration. Keep it up guys! Climb it like a BOSS!! Maija

Posted by: Maija Markul on 6/20/2013 at 2:21 pm

Wow, what amazing pictures and updates!

Hey Steve! We’re cheering you on and can’t wait to see you guys when you get back. Have an amazing time on the adventure. Heading up Snowmass this weekend and will take a moment for you!

Posted by: James on 6/18/2013 at 8:03 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Descend to 11,000’

June 16, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 16, 2013 We woke this morning to another unbelievable day at 17,200' camp on Mt. McKinley. The sun was shining, there was no wind blowing, and folks were comfortable in soft shell coats eating their grits and Pop Tarts. If you don't have a frame of reference for how unbelievable that kind of weather is, it's more typical for people to be wrapped in every puffy coat and pant that they brought to the high camp, while the wind threatens to blow you right off the mountain. Needless to say, we were psyched. We started walking down the buttress route soon after breakfast, and make excellent time across the knife-edge, exposed walking from camp to the top of the fixed lines. A short, technical descent down the lines had us all sweating by the time we reached the bottom, and we stripped down to base layers for the moderate descent back to our cache at 14,200'. After we grabbed all the group food and gear, we loaded heavy packs and headed down in the scorching sun towards our old stomping grounds at 11,000'. We arrived in calm, clear skies, and we quickly got up tents and got out of the sun. We're drinking a ton of water, looking forward to the group food fry of leftover cheeses, meats, and breads this evening, and getting ready for the 3am launch down the glacier tomorrow morning. Hopefully we'll have the weather to fly back to showers, greasy burgers, and cold beer tomorrow. Until then, stay tuned for the latest and greatest from the team! Hasta luego, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the sore but happy team

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way to go james! cant wait to see all your pics and hear all your stories!

Posted by: tina on 6/17/2013 at 7:04 pm

Hello Googoo and the rest of the climbers, our prayers are with you all, we are proud of you, keep it up and come back safe, love you, Areg

Posted by: Areg Abramian on 6/17/2013 at 6:29 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren’s Team at High Camp

June 16, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Sunday, June 16th, 2013 Holy cow we made it up! Leaving early, we passed RMI 4 at the base of the fixed lines, high fiving as we continued our climb. The team did a remarkable job making it to high camp in fine time. The West Buttress proper is the most fun part of the route and earns the namesake title. We cruised up to our cache at the base of Washburn's Thumb and barely slowed down with the extra weight. Arriving at camp didn't even require a coat once we stopped. The weather is perfect now and all we need is one more day and I'm sure the team will make it to the top. We are ready to outchill weather if it comes, but hopefully we can get one more day of this fantastic weather. Send us all good weather vibes if you please and we will check in tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Sweet they way i read this is you summited on an absolutley gorgeous day. Way to go.

Posted by: Terry Kramer on 6/18/2013 at 1:24 pm

The KEI team is cheering you on. Can’t wait to see the pics. Barbara you are awesome and put us all to shame. We are so very proud f you.

Posted by: Terry Kramer on 6/17/2013 at 9:55 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Moves to 9,600’ Camp

June 16, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Sunday, June 16th, 2013 Happy Father's Day to all of our dads from Summit Team 6! We bit off another chunk of the mountain this morning ascending to 9,600 feet. Only 10,600 feet to go! We arrived at our new camp around mid morning. Our team is quickly becoming McKinley camp experts, so it did not take us very long to dig in camp. We had some extra daylight (oh yeah, it is always daylight), so we decided to dig a monster posh house. A posh house is our version of a cook tent. It is like a snow cave where the cooking and seating area is dug into the snow below ground level. The roof is a big top-like tent that is held up by a pole that goes from the apex to the floor of the snow pit. Now we have room for company. The weather forecast looks stellar so we should be able to move up to 11k Camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance says thank you to his wife and girls for the Father's Day card!

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Wow!I am speechless! What a great experience! I am so proud of my friend Cindee Teer! I hope all goes well, and everyone is safe! The Turner Family

Posted by: Ingrid on 6/17/2013 at 7:01 pm

It sounds like things are going so well! Steve, we are thinking of you constantly. Tania went home today and we miss her, but we had fun this weekend talking about how WE are not on a glacier, but enjoying summer in the mountains. Just so you know, Tania did awesome this weekend.

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 6/17/2013 at 7:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Travel the Fixed Lines to Washburn’s Thumb

June 16, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013 Big day here on Denali. A big congrats to Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and crew for a job well done going to the top! We didn't lounge around ourselves and made an early bid for our cache at Washburn's Thumb. The team handled the fixes lines very well and we made great time up to 16,400 feet under perfect climbing conditions. It was a great day to enjoy the views and we relaxed up high before hitting the sauna on our way down. It was HOT and we were sure glad to be on our way back to camp by the time the temperatures peaked. Naps followed our work day and we are tentatively optimistic that we will be able to move higher tomorrow and get in position to put all the hard work and experience to the test in the next few days. Keep some fingers crossed for us friends, we're gonna need some good weather for a few days. Over and out. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Wonderful news!!
We are sending the good weather vibes from LA to you all!
Thinking of the Team often and wishing you luck these next few days!
~S Brownie

Posted by: S Brownie on 6/16/2013 at 1:51 pm

Peter!

So proud of you and your team! Happy to hear you are safe and still climbing. Miss you and am excited to see you on your safe arrival home! Lots of love.

Xoxo
Chels

Posted by: Chelsea Hall on 6/16/2013 at 12:02 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Caches Supplies and Returns to Camp

June 15, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013 After another early start, we made our way up to 10,000 feet and cached some of the food, fuel, and gear that we will not need until later. We started walking uphill around 4 a.m. this morning because even though we are camping and traveling on ice and snow, it can be quite hot with the sun beating down and reflecting upon us. We returned to camp just after 11 a.m. Katie and Uchal made some delicious breakfast burritos before we all turned in for our afternoon naps. Don't judge, we worked hard! The plan for tomorrow is to pack up camp early and head towards our next spot at around 9,600 feet. The mountain is pretty quiet since there are not many teams flying on the mountain right now. Everyone is happy and healthy. Yvonne, Peter wanted me to let you know he is especially happy and healthy! RMI Guide Mike Haugen P.S. Congratulations to Tyler Jones and team for their summit!

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Enjoyed meeting you’all in Talkeetna. I am happy to hear you all are safe and sound. We had a “standard” at the Roadhouse and a couple of Ice Ax Axes at the West Rib in your honor this afternoon. Heading home tomorrow. Good luck on the mountain, and I hope you all summit.

Posted by: Papa Haugen on 6/16/2013 at 4:52 pm

Happy Fathers Day, Q! Jack and I miss you, hope you are having a great time!

Posted by: Liz Landers on 6/16/2013 at 1:58 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Summit!

June 15, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013 Today was a busy day at the roof of North America! Our team was first out of the gates from 17,200' camp, with a warm, windless departure at 8:00am. The first stretch of the route above camp is also one of the most technical and time consuming; it's called the "Autobahn" and takes a strong, committed team to single push across the steeply rising traverse to Denali Pass. Our group crushed it, and we were enjoying the sun on the east side of the pass soon enough. The next few stretches went by relatively quickly, although nothing is lightning fast at 19,000'. By the time we reached the Football Field, a flat saddle just below the summit ridge, we were down to base layers and light gloves. Considering the fierce reputation that Denali has for arctic temperatures and raging wind, we consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have had a such an incredible day. The last climb up Pig Hill was taxing our legs and our lungs, and just when folks had had enough we reached the final summit ridge. Forty minutes later, our team put the highest point of the continent under their crampons, amid much hugging and celebration. The trip back down was uneventful, albeit hot. The sun roasted our tired crew all the way back to camp. But as soon as we got back, folks were out of boots and into tents, resting and relaxing as we brought hot water and heaping helpings of ramen with bacon and chicken. We're ready for the long trip back to base camp, but that's for another day. Right now, we're savoring the day's events and getting ready for some well earned sleep. Thanks again and we'll check back in soon! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and the team from the Mount McKinley summit!

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Congratulations Lori and team members. Great job to the guides who encouraged and fed you and got you to your goal. Dad and I haven’t had internet service for days and have had to rely on Dad’s cell phone. Thus, I wasn’t sending you encouragement in words, but you were never far from our thoughts. SO LOOKING FORWARD TO HEARING YOUR VOICE. Love you, mom and dad.

Posted by: Fern Hansen on 6/16/2013 at 10:07 am

Sweeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice work Chickie and team. Congrats to you all.

Billy

Posted by: Don on 6/16/2013 at 9:00 am

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren & Team Rest & Refuel at 17,000’ Camp

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Return to High Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen And Team Settle in At 11,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Descend to 11,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren’s Team at High Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Moves to 9,600’ Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Travel the Fixed Lines to Washburn’s Thumb

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Caches Supplies and Returns to Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Summit!

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