Mt. Kilimanjaro: RMI Guide Mark Tucker & Team Start Their Climb

Posted by: | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 9,800'

Hello from Mt. Kilimanjaro.
It was a great day for our team and a good start to our climb.  We had a smooth departure from the lowlands of Arusha as we left the Dik Dik Hotel and headed to the mountain.  Our local mountain staff and climbing team gathered at the Machame Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park (5,900’) to register our climb and begin our ascent. We started climbing with low clouds above which remained for the majority of the day.  It did not rain but we had our rain gear close just in case.  We arrived at Camp One, Machame Camp,  9,800’ and have finished dinner.  We also had a special celebration for team member Brian’s birthday.  Our staff sang a fine version happy birthday and we all enjoyed a bit of cake.

It is nice to get on the trail, get our feet underneath us and start our mountain adventure.  We are looking forward to more tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

The Machame Gate, entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park.  Photo: RMI Collection First camp on Kilimanjaro, Machame Camp at 9,800 ft. Photo: Jeff Martin

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Alpamayo: Team Summits with 100%

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello everyone, this is Elias and the Alpamayo Climbing team Thursday the 24th.  It is 9:45 local time and we are calling from Camp 2.  Guess what?  We just summited this morning.  We didn’t have a chance to call from the summit, it’s a pretty gnarly ridge, pretty exposed and there were some winds.  We were a six person team, all the climbers Tony, Kenzie, Parker and Peter made it up. So pulling the sat phone out was a little bit out of the question.  But we are psyched.  We had an awesome climb. These guys were super strong and climbed really, really quick and efficient.  Like I said we are back at camp, safe and sound. 
We are looking forward to starting our descent.  The plan is now to take a couple hours rest here and pack it up and initiate our descent to base camp where our cook, Emile, we hopefully be waiting with a nice meal, really well earned.
That is pretty much it for now.  As an antidote, we would like to share that, we had a chance, to high five reknown Swiss climber Ueli Steck who was climbing here in the Cordillera Blanca and happened to climb Alpamayo today.  It was pretty nice to see him climb next to us and, of course,  smoked us on the way up. But hey, he’s a different league, and we feel pretty satisfied with the job done. We were the first one’s out of camp, the first one’s on the summit and the first one’s down back to camp.
We are reporting incredible weather, incredible views and everybody is psyched.
And if you stay tuned we will be checking in tonight when we arrive back at Base Camp, out of the glacier and ready to return to Huaraz tomorrow.  That’s it from me right now and thanks to all of you who have been following us.  We will check in tonight when we are out of the mountains.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in after reaching the summit of Alpamayo.

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Team Remain at Camp Muir

Posted by: Jake Beren, Zeb Blais | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Zeb Blais and Jake Beren were unable to make a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning due to weather conditions.  Jake reported steady winds of 50 mph overnight with gusts to 70 mph.  As of 7:30 am conditions had improved slightly with decreased winds and partial clearing.  Snow accumulation at Muir was estimated at 6-10 inches.

The teams will depart Camp Muir around 9:15 en route to Paradise and then continue down to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.


Mt. Elbrus:  JJ and Team Enjoy Time on the Mountain

Posted by: JJ Justman | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Southside
Elevation: 12,000'

Hello from Mt. Elbrus! Our team awoke from a good nights sleep to a beautiful, clear sunny day. After a great Russian breakfast with great American Starbucks coffee we threw our spikes on and went for a walk.

The higher you get the slower things become. As our team approached 15,000 feet many of us began to feel the air getting just a bit thinner. However, we accomplished the goal and the high altitude was a great welcome for us to become stronger for summit day.

Everyone did a great job and even though towards the end it got a little tougher, everyone is having fun and in good spirits. However, no one is still laughing at any of my jokes!

RMI Guide JJ Justman

The Pastuhkova Rock feature at 15,100 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: Linden Mallory The July 18th RMI Mt. Elbrus team taking an acclimatization hike to 15,000 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: JJ Justman The RMI July 18th Mt. Elbrus team enjoying time on mountain.  Photo: JJ Justman

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Fisher Chimneys: Walter and Team Check In

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 5,700'

Hi Everyone,

Yesterday we hiked past Lake Ann and climbed 3rd and 4th class terrain to our bivy site at 5700’. The weather was generally cooperative, with light to moderate rain showers coming in and out.
The weather today is less accommodating; after a pleasantly dry breakfast we got back in our tents as heavy rain moved in. So, we’re taking advantage of some down time to rest and hopefully we’ll have a crack at climbing tomorrow.
This rain event is very unusual for July in the Cascades, and we’re hopeful that we’ll get back to the standard fare of sunshine.

RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

Camp on Fisher Chimneys. Photo: Mike Walter

More Entries

Expedition Stats

Vinson Massif
11/19 - 12/11/2013
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
12/10 - 12/20/2013
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Vinson Massif
12/1 - 12/23/2013
Summit
Aconcagua
12/9 - 12/29/2013
21,700'
Aconcagua
12/14 - 1/6/2014
Summit
Aconcagua
12/20 - 1/12/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
1/5 - 1/10/2014
10,080'
Aconcagua
12/27 - 1/19/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
1/7 - 1/20/2014
Cayambe - Summit / Antisana - 18,500' / Cotopaxi - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
1/18 - 1/26/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Aconcagua
1/10 - 2/2/2014
Summit
Aconcagua
1/3 - 1/26/2014
21,500'
Kilimanjaro
1/25 - 2/8/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
2/9 - 2/14/2014
7,100'
Kilimanjaro
2/8 - 2/22/2014
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
2/11 - 2/21/2014
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua
2/2 - 2/25/2014
Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/15 - 2/23/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Kilimanjaro
2/10 - 2/21/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/14 - 2/26/2014
Illiniza Sur - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/1 - 3/9/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/9 - 3/14/2014
Summit
Everest Base Camp Trek - Island Peak
3/16 - 4/10/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/13 - 4/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - 13,400'
Everest Base Camp Trek
3/19 - 4/8/2014
Base Camp
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/4 - 5/14/2014
Radio Tower - 7,300' / Kahiltna Dome - 10,500'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/10 - 5/14/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/12 - 5/16/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/18/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/16 - 5/19/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - 13,600'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/18 - 5/23/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - 13,700'
Four Day Summit Climb
5/23 - 5/26/2014
12,300'
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/17 - 5/27/2014
Kahiltna Dome - 10,700'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/25 - 5/30/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 6/1/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/30 - 6/2/2014
Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/6 - 6/2/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 16,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
6/1 - 6/6/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
6/1 - 6/6/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/10 - 6/28/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 16,200'
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/13 - 6/4/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 16,400'
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/20 - 6/7/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/10/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2014
Mt. Rainier - 12,600'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2014
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/13 - 6/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - 12,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/15 - 6/20/2014
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/27 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/3 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2014
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/22 - 6/27/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2014
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Ecuador's Volcanoes
6/17 - 6/27/2014
Cayambe - 16,300' / Cotopaxi - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/10 - 7/2/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 7/1/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/5/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/3 - 7/6/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/4 - 7/7/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/3 - 7/7/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/6 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/8/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/4 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Cotopaxi Express Ascent
6/28 - 7/6/2014
Cotopaxi - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/10/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/17 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/8 - 7/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/6 - 7/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/6 - 7/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/9 - 7/12/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru
6/29 - 7/13/2014
Nevado Urus - Summit / Ishinca - Summit / Tocllaraju - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/7 - 7/10/2014
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/13/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/10 - 7/13/2014
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Alpamayo Expedition
6/29 - 7/14/2014
19,512' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/11 - 7/14/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/14/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount Elbrus
7/4 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Elbrus - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/15/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/13 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/11 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/13 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/14 - 7/17/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/15 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/13 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/16 - 7/19/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/17 - 7/20/2014
Mt. Rainier - 12,800'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/21/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/15 - 7/18/2014
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Mount McKinley Custom Expedition
6/24 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 17,900'
Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys
7/18 - 7/20/2014
Mt. Shuksan - 7,000'
Five Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/22/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/19 - 7/22/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/20 - 7/23/2014
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/21 - 7/24/2014
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
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  • The Machame Gate, entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • First camp on Kilimanjaro, Machame Camp at 9,800 ft. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • The Pastuhkova Rock feature at 15,100 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • The July 18th RMI Mt. Elbrus team taking an acclimatization hike to 15,000 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI July 18th Mt. Elbrus team enjoying time on mountain.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Camp on Fisher Chimneys. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Kilimanjaro July 21st team at dinner at the Dik Dik Hotel, Tanzania.  Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The July 21st Kilimanjaro team stretching their legs in Tanzania.  Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The RMI Mt. Elbrus July 18th team on an acclimazation hike.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI team ascending to Camp Muir on July 22nd.  Photo: Win Whittaker
  • The Four Day Summit Climb July 20 - 23 team enjoyed nice weather for their Mountaineering School on July 21st.  Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Grom and Team visiting St. Petersburg after Elbrus summit. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The Elbrus team enjoying the St. Petersburg canal tour. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Casey Grom & his Elbrus team's farewell dinner in St. Petersburg. Photo: Casey Grom
  • RMI climbers on the upper flanks of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Ed Viesturs
  • Rooftops of St. Petersburg, Russia. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Sunset view of the Caucasus Mountains above Cheget. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cheget, mountain town at the base of the Caucasus Mountains. Photo: JJ Justman
  • RMI rope teams at the top of Mt. Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver (Robby Young).
  • An RMI Team led by Brent Okita crossing the Mt. Rainier crater. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The RMI July 11th team enjoying a celebration dinner in Cheget, Russia. Photo: Casey Grom
  • St. Basils Cathedral near Red Square Moscow, Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The outer walls around the Kremlin, Moscow Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 11th team on the summit of Mt. Elbrus, Russia, 18,510 ft.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • Fisher Chimneys camp just below 7000', on a rock ridge in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Training on the lower slopes of Mt. Elbrus. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Flying into Kahiltna Base Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The Talkeetna Airstrip in view. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Sunset in Talkeetna. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • The new huts on Mt. Elbrus, 12,000 ft.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • The July 11th Mt. Elbrus team on an acclimatization hike to 15,000 ft on Mt. Elbrus, Russia.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection