Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Team Remain at Camp Muir

Posted by: Jake Beren, Zeb Blais | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Zeb Blais and Jake Beren were unable to make a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning due to weather conditions.  Jake reported steady winds of 50 mph overnight with gusts to 70 mph.  As of 7:30 am conditions had improved slightly with decreased winds and partial clearing.  Snow accumulation at Muir was estimated at 6-10 inches.

The teams will depart Camp Muir around 9:15 en route to Paradise and then continue down to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.


Mt. Elbrus:  JJ and Team Enjoy Time on the Mountain

Posted by: JJ Justman | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Southside
Elevation: 12,000'

Hello from Mt. Elbrus! Our team awoke from a good nights sleep to a beautiful, clear sunny day. After a great Russian breakfast with great American Starbucks coffee we threw our spikes on and went for a walk.

The higher you get the slower things become. As our team approached 15,000 feet many of us began to feel the air getting just a bit thinner. However, we accomplished the goal and the high altitude was a great welcome for us to become stronger for summit day.

Everyone did a great job and even though towards the end it got a little tougher, everyone is having fun and in good spirits. However, no one is still laughing at any of my jokes!

RMI Guide JJ Justman

The Pastuhkova Rock feature at 15,100 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: Linden Mallory The July 18th RMI Mt. Elbrus team taking an acclimatization hike to 15,000 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: JJ Justman The RMI July 18th Mt. Elbrus team enjoying time on mountain.  Photo: JJ Justman

On The Map

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Fisher Chimneys: Walter and Team Check In

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 5,700'

Hi Everyone,

Yesterday we hiked past Lake Ann and climbed 3rd and 4th class terrain to our bivy site at 5700’. The weather was generally cooperative, with light to moderate rain showers coming in and out.
The weather today is less accommodating; after a pleasantly dry breakfast we got back in our tents as heavy rain moved in. So, we’re taking advantage of some down time to rest and hopefully we’ll have a crack at climbing tomorrow.
This rain event is very unusual for July in the Cascades, and we’re hopeful that we’ll get back to the standard fare of sunshine.

RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

Camp on Fisher Chimneys. Photo: Mike Walter

Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Ready in Arusha

Posted by: Mark Tucker | July 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Kilimanjaro

Our team has gathered in Arusha, Tanzania and we are sorting our gear, weighing our mountain duffels and getting ready to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro!  We also took a little time for golfing and goofing around.  We need to get away from this lap of luxury we find ourselves in and start climbing, we are eating way to much.

Tomorrow we will wake early, enjoy our last restaurant meal for a while and then take a drive to the Machame Gate.  Here we will register our team with the Kilimanjaro National Park, don our packs and begin our climb toward the Roof of Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

The RMI Kilimanjaro July 21st team at dinner at the Dik Dik Hotel, Tanzania.  Photo: Mark Tucker The July 21st Kilimanjaro team stretching their legs in Tanzania.  Photo: Mark Tucker

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Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest and Prepare for Summit Attempt

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello this is the Alpamayo climbing team and the word is we are climbing tonight. It is Wednesday. 3:00 PM local time and we decide to take a rest day today as we arrived yesterday up here. And all is well, we’re pretty excited. Tony, Parker, Kenzie, and Pete are really strong, healthy, and ready to go. So we will hopefully keep you updated from the summit tomorrow sometime in the early morning and… yeah. You can probably hear our voice from the top of Alpamayo. We’ll initiate soon afterwards our descent and the goal we be to actually make it to base camp but that is yet to be seen. [Broken] Hopefully we’ll have good news for you.  That’s all for now, we’re going to go to bed pretty soon here and we’ll check in tomorrow. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from high camp on Alpamayo.

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More Entries

Expedition Stats

Vinson Massif
11/19 - 12/11/2013
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
12/10 - 12/20/2013
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Vinson Massif
12/1 - 12/23/2013
Summit
Aconcagua
12/9 - 12/29/2013
21,700'
Aconcagua
12/14 - 1/6/2014
Summit
Aconcagua
12/20 - 1/12/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
1/5 - 1/10/2014
10,080'
Aconcagua
12/27 - 1/19/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
1/7 - 1/20/2014
Cayambe - Summit / Antisana - 18,500' / Cotopaxi - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
1/18 - 1/26/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Aconcagua
1/10 - 2/2/2014
Summit
Aconcagua
1/3 - 1/26/2014
21,500'
Kilimanjaro
1/25 - 2/8/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
2/9 - 2/14/2014
7,100'
Kilimanjaro
2/8 - 2/22/2014
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
2/11 - 2/21/2014
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua
2/2 - 2/25/2014
Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/15 - 2/23/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Kilimanjaro
2/10 - 2/21/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/14 - 2/26/2014
Illiniza Sur - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/1 - 3/9/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/9 - 3/14/2014
Summit
Everest Base Camp Trek - Island Peak
3/16 - 4/10/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/13 - 4/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - 13,400'
Everest Base Camp Trek
3/19 - 4/8/2014
Base Camp
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/4 - 5/14/2014
Radio Tower - 7,300' / Kahiltna Dome - 10,500'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/10 - 5/14/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/12 - 5/16/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/18/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/16 - 5/19/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - 13,600'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/18 - 5/23/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - 13,700'
Four Day Summit Climb
5/23 - 5/26/2014
12,300'
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/17 - 5/27/2014
Kahiltna Dome - 10,700'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/25 - 5/30/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2014
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 6/1/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2014
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/30 - 6/2/2014
Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/6 - 6/2/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 16,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
6/1 - 6/6/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
6/1 - 6/6/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/10 - 6/28/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 16,200'
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/13 - 6/4/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 16,400'
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/20 - 6/7/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/10/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2014
Mt. Rainier - 12,600'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2014
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/13 - 6/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - 12,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/15 - 6/20/2014
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/27 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/3 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2014
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/22 - 6/27/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2014
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Ecuador's Volcanoes
6/17 - 6/27/2014
Cayambe - 16,300' / Cotopaxi - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/10 - 7/2/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 7/1/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/5/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/3 - 7/6/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/4 - 7/7/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/3 - 7/7/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/6 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/8/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/4 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Cotopaxi Express Ascent
6/28 - 7/6/2014
Cotopaxi - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/10/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/17 - 7/9/2014
Mt. Mckinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/8 - 7/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/6 - 7/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/6 - 7/11/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/9 - 7/12/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru
6/29 - 7/13/2014
Nevado Urus - Summit / Ishinca - Summit / Tocllaraju - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/7 - 7/10/2014
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/13/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/10 - 7/13/2014
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Alpamayo Expedition
6/29 - 7/14/2014
19,512' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/11 - 7/14/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/14/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount Elbrus
7/4 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Elbrus - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/15/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/13 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/11 - 7/16/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/13 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/14 - 7/17/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/15 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/13 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/16 - 7/19/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/17 - 7/20/2014
Mt. Rainier - 12,800'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/21/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
7/15 - 7/18/2014
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Mount McKinley Custom Expedition
6/24 - 7/18/2014
Mt. Mckinley - 17,900'
Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys
7/18 - 7/20/2014
Mt. Shuksan - 7,000'
Five Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/22/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/19 - 7/22/2014
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/20 - 7/23/2014
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
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  • The Pastuhkova Rock feature at 15,100 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • The July 18th RMI Mt. Elbrus team taking an acclimatization hike to 15,000 ft on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI July 18th Mt. Elbrus team enjoying time on mountain.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Camp on Fisher Chimneys. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Kilimanjaro July 21st team at dinner at the Dik Dik Hotel, Tanzania.  Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The July 21st Kilimanjaro team stretching their legs in Tanzania.  Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The RMI Mt. Elbrus July 18th team on an acclimazation hike.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI team ascending to Camp Muir on July 22nd.  Photo: Win Whittaker
  • The Four Day Summit Climb July 20 - 23 team enjoyed nice weather for their Mountaineering School on July 21st.  Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Grom and Team visiting St. Petersburg after Elbrus summit. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The Elbrus team enjoying the St. Petersburg canal tour. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Casey Grom & his Elbrus team's farewell dinner in St. Petersburg. Photo: Casey Grom
  • RMI climbers on the upper flanks of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Ed Viesturs
  • Rooftops of St. Petersburg, Russia. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Sunset view of the Caucasus Mountains above Cheget. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cheget, mountain town at the base of the Caucasus Mountains. Photo: JJ Justman
  • RMI rope teams at the top of Mt. Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver (Robby Young).
  • An RMI Team led by Brent Okita crossing the Mt. Rainier crater. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The RMI July 11th team enjoying a celebration dinner in Cheget, Russia. Photo: Casey Grom
  • St. Basils Cathedral near Red Square Moscow, Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The outer walls around the Kremlin, Moscow Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 11th team on the summit of Mt. Elbrus, Russia, 18,510 ft.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • Fisher Chimneys camp just below 7000', on a rock ridge in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Training on the lower slopes of Mt. Elbrus. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Flying into Kahiltna Base Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The Talkeetna Airstrip in view. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Sunset in Talkeetna. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • The new huts on Mt. Elbrus, 12,000 ft.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • The July 11th Mt. Elbrus team on an acclimatization hike to 15,000 ft on Mt. Elbrus, Russia.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Mt. Elbrus July 11th team takes a break during their acclimatization hike on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • An acclimatization hike on Mt. Elbrus by the July 11th team.  Photo: Casey Grom
  • The RMI July 11th team loading the gondola to reach Base Camp on Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: Casey Grom