Climb Details

Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$870
$300
3 day(s)
Level 3 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability

Please call for program dates.

Upcoming Climbs

August 8, 2014 - FULL

Guide(s):

Jake Beren


"I just wanted to shoot you a quick note and let you know what an AWESOME time I had climbing Mt. Shuksan. We had a super fun climb, made the summit, and I got some much desired practice on rock, ice, and steeper snow."

— Chris V. | Read More Testimonials

Mt. Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys route is an exciting alpine ascent of a classic North Cascades peak. Climb highlights include:

  • Climb the rocky Fisher Chimneys to a high camp perched on a narrow ridge overlooking the North Cascades.
  • Approach through spectacular temperate and sub-alpine forests, traverse interesting glaciers and ascend moderate alpine rock to Mt. Shuksan's summit.
  • Enjoy a complete alpine experience with three full days on route with expert leadership and a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio.

pproaching the base of the Fisher Chimneys

Mount Shuksan (9,127 feet) is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington’s North Cascades. The mountain has become an icon for climbers in the northwest with its rugged beauty and rich mountaineering history.

The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain’s northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. The alpine rock and glaciated terrain which make up the climb are not difficult – but there is a lot of it! That is why we break the climb into three days. We take time to enjoy the climbing and spend two nights at a favorite high camp.

On day one of our program we ascend a scenic glacier-carved valley past Lake Ann and climb the interesting rock gully systems known as the Fisher Chimneys. High camp sits at the base of the glacier above at 6,700 feet. On our second day we navigate three different glaciers, climb low 5th-class rock on the summit pyramid and enjoy stunning views from the top. We then descend the route to our high camp for another night and climb down and out the following day. Taking three days to climb this tremendous route ensures greater success and more time to enjoy one of the range's premier alpine adventures.

We lead the Fisher Chimneys Climb at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive a high degree of hands-on instruction and have a small, efficient rope team during the summit ascent.

This intermediate level program requires great physical condition and previous knowledge of mountaineering techniques.

THE RMI DIFFERENCE

The Mountain Guides at RMI have a reputation as top guides in the United States. RMI Guides participated in some of America’s first ventures into the far reaches of the Himalaya. Years of expedition guiding and alpine climbing around the world have built a core of consummate professional guides.

Our guides are celebrated teachers and trainers, known for their leadership as well as their character. They possess the compassion, enthusiasm and ability to empower others and inspire them forward. Such qualities may only be found in people at the top of their profession. Despite their vast experience, RMI Guides still remember their own first steps into the mountains, and enjoy helping other climbers reach new heights.

Our exceptional focus to detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures make our programs truly memorable.

Views from High CampThe summit of Mt. Shuksan

SAFETY

RMI strives to create the safest mountain experience possible. Our experienced team of guides focuses on leading fun and successful climbs without compromising safety. Each climb includes careful pre-trip planning, daily weather forecasts, avalanche forecasts, and diligent attention to detail. All RMI Guides are highly trained in remote medicine and rescue skills and carry comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio communication equipment throughout the program. Regardless of the objective or the destination, safety remains RMI’s top priority.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys Equipment List

Whittaker Mountaineering

The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI2014.


Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

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BACKPACK: A 50+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb.  A separate summit pack is not needed.


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SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated 0° to 20° F will keep you warm. Use the colder bag in May, June and September; and the warmer bag in July and August. You may use either goose down or synthetic.


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

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ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following formula for this climb: up to 5'8", use a 55-60 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 60-65 cm axe; and taller, use a 65-70 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should be a few inches below your knee. 


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CLIMBING HARNESS: We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.


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2 TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER(S): Used for clipping into the climbing rope.


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1 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S): Used for pack ditch loop, etc.


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HELMET: A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet. Bicycle or ski helmets are designed for a different type of impact and will not substitute as a climbing helmet.


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CRAMPONS: The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal.


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AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well. If you rent a transceiver, one set of new batteries will be provided.


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TREKKING POLES: Lightweight and collapsible poles are preferred. Larger baskets work well with deep snow. Ski poles will also work.


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120 cm sewn nylon sling ("double-length runner").


Head Guides' Pick

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WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.


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BUFF / NECK GAITER / BALACLAVA: One item for face protection is required. Our primary recommendation is the Buff. A neck gaiter or balaclava is also acceptable.


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GLACIER GLASSES: You will need protective sunglasses, either dark-lensed with side shields or full wrap-around frames. Almost all sunglasses block UV-A, UV-B and infrared rays adequately. Pay attention to the visible light transmission. The darkest lenses (glacier glasses) only allow approx. 6% visible light to get through, while lighter lenses (driving glasses) let in as much as 20+ %. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the wearer’s pupils through the lenses, they are too light for sun protection at altitude.


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HEADLAMP: Be sure to begin the program with fresh batteries.


Hands

Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.


Upper Body

We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.


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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Quarter zip styles will allow for better temperature regulation. We recommend light colors, which best reflect the intense sun on hot days.


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RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL): A jacket made of rain-proof material with an attached hood.  We recommend a thinner lightweight jacket rather than a heavier insulated jacket.


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SPORTS BRA: We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.


Lower Body

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.


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CLIMBING PANT: Soft-shell climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them in combination with the base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.


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RAIN PANT (HARD SHELL): A waterproof pant with 3/4 side zippers (sometimes called 7/8 or full side zips) are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons.


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LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT OR SHORTS (OPTIONAL): A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.

M:
  • Mountain Hardwear Mesa V2 Convertible Pant
  • Mountain Hardwear Mesa V2 Short

W:

Feet Guides' Pick

Equipment Check Box

MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Mountaineering specific leather boots are the preferred choices for ascents in the North Cascades. Because of the amount of good rock climbing found on the West Ridge route, some climbers also bring a pair of rock shoes with them. A good compromise to carrying two sets of foot wear is one of the lightweight mountaineering boots made today designed for both rock and ice. These boots are sturdy enough for kicking steps and holding a crampon while also having sticky rubber and a good feel for the rock. Lightweight hiking boots are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather.

M:
  • La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX

W:
  • La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX

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GAITERS: We recommend a knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing.


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2 PAIR OF SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc), should work just fine for this climb.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

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LIP BALM: We recommend SPF 15 or higher.


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SUNSCREEN: We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.


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MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.


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2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: Hard-sided, screw-top, one-liter water bottles with wide mouths are required.


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AQUAMIRA: Chlorine Dioxide water purification drops.


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2 GARBAGE BAGS (LARGE): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.


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ZIP-LOCK BAG (1 GALLON): Please use the Zip-Lock as your personal trash bag.


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INSECT REPELLENT


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CAMERA


Toilet Articles

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TOOTHBRUSH


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HAND SANITIZER(S): Personal size (2 oz.) bottle.


Utensils Guides' Pick

Pre-Trip Checklist

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Purchase travel insurance.


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Return the Registration Packet to the RMI Office.


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Arrange transportation and lodging.


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Purchase airplane tickets.


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Reserve rental equipment.


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Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!


Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes and anchors, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.