May 24, 2013:
We have interesting (quite typical) early season conditions on Mt. Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver. RMI teams summated on the DC from May 15 through May 20th and stated that the route was in great shape with just a few problematic crevasses up high. Guides have spanned those crevasses with ladders and hand lines. The Cleaver itself is just about all snow, very little rock is climbed on, and has a fixed hand line on the traverse gaining the Spine of the Cleaver.
Since that great start to the season, a winter-like weather pattern has rolled in and the mountain has received quite a bit of new snow. Guides have not been above 11,500' on the DC route for several days but are chomping at the bit to get up high and kick the route back in once the weather allows.
Photos taken August 2012:
Gaping crevasse on the Ingraham Glacier
Just above Disappointment Cleaver (12,400')
Looking down the Ingraham Glacier towards Disappointment Cleaver
Crossing a crevasse plug below 13,000'