Climb Details
Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
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Type:
$6500
$1500
21 day(s)
Mountaineering
Availability
Upcoming Climbs
| May 8, 2012 | |
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| May 15, 2012 - FULL | |
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| May 22, 2012 - FULL | |
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| May 29, 2012 - FULL | |
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| June 5, 2012 - FULL | |
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| June 12, 2012 - FULL | |
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| June 19, 2012 - FULL | |
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Surrounded by the massive glaciers and peaks of the Alaska Range and overlooking Alaska's interior stands 20,320' Mt. McKinley, also known as Denali, the highest mountain in North America. Expedition highlights include:
- Fly over the lakes and rivers of Alaska’s wilderness into the rugged peaks of the Alaska Range to McKinley’s Kahiltna Glacier: one of the largest, most impressive glaciers on the mountain.
- Enjoy an expedition structured for success: no predetermined ending date and a flexible itinerary gives our expeditions the freedom to make a summit bid on a timeline dictated by the mountain and the climbing team.
- Climb between the gorgeous granite rock of the West Buttress and ascend the final corniced ridge to the summit of Denali.
- Climb with an experienced RMI Guide, benefiting from the background, training, and expertise of our leaders as you venture to higher altitudes.
- Take part in an RMI adventure and see why we continue to set the standard in guiding excellence.
The West Buttress route on Mt. McKinley was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. Bradford Washburn. The climb is a steady and gradual ascent over a period of days and we emphasize proper acclimatization for our team members. The route is not considered a highly technical climb because there is no rock or vertical ice climbing; rather it is the physical environment that presents much of the challenge of climbing Denali: miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extremes of temperature and weather, climbing and living at altitude, and familiarization with necessary and associated mountain skills. In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000' (35 - 45 + degrees). Some slopes have fixed rope in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender. An ascent of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley with RMI is truly a major expedition and unforgettable climbing experience!
Prior to making your reservation, RMI must review your climbing resume in writing. Please complete the McKinley Registration form and email or fax to our office.
THE RMI DIFFERENCE
When your goal is the highest peak in North America, experience matters. Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was established in 1969 and is one of America’s oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley and leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. We have been guiding on Mt. McKinley since 1975 and have led over 300 expeditions on the mountain.
The remote and inhospitable landscape of Denali's slopes necessitate that all the finer points of an expedition are addressed and our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips; we work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader. Our preparation before departure helps you with the trip logistics, from the expedition planning, to help with travel plans, to mountain flights with K2 Aviation - so that you can focus on preparing for the climb. RMI does not establish final end dates to our expeditions, giving us the flexibility to take into account considerations such as weather, route conditions, acclimatization and the strength of the climbing team while on the mountain. This flexibility allows us to move higher when the weather permits and climbers are ready, not just because of the need to adhere to a pre-determined schedule.
Our Mt. McKinley expeditions are led by RMI’s foremost guides who bring years of climbing experience on not only McKinley but on mountains all over the world, from the Andes to the Antarctic to the Himalayas. With over 35 years of accumulated knowledge guiding Denali, our guides are second to none. Our guides closely monitor climbers’ performance and acclimatization throughout the team’s ascent and will make day-to-day variations in order to better your chances of reaching the summit. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly trained RMI Guide held to our standards cannot be understated.
CUSTOM EXPEDITION WITH DAVE HAHN
RMI is please to offer a Custom West Buttress Expedition with Dave Hahn on June 26, 2012. Click here for details.
SAFETY
Safety has always been RMI’s top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. RMI’s experienced team of guides focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. We apply the same strict standards of safety we bring to the Antarctic and the Himalayas to our climbs of McKinley. Careful planning, precise ascent profiles, flexibility in our itinerary, and diligent attention is taken as we venture to high altitudes. Additional resources are stationed at Base Camp and 14,000’ Camp and comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication equipment are carried with the team throughout the climb.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
This expedition truly is a major undertaking. The first few days, the focus will be learning the expedition routines of glacier travel, snow camping, and working at becoming a team. Make a conscious effort to take things one-step at a time, literally. Keep a positive mental attitude - you are gradually becoming an expedition climber!
Base Camp, 7,300' is on the S.E. fork of Kahiltna Glacier, approximately 20 miles distant and 13,000' below the summit of Denali, South Peak, 20,320'. We travel roped together the entire way. Leaving Kahiltna Base, our first objective is 10,000' Kahiltna Pass, several miles of low angle glacier travel distant. Continuing to follow Kahiltna Glacier beyond the pass, the route climbs through a narrow glacial valley to Camp III, below Motorcycle Hill. Traversing a basin beneath the prow of the West Buttress, the route passes through Windy Corner and climbs to 14,000' Genet Basin. Advance Base Camp is established here. Above 15,000' fixed rope is climbed to a notch in the West Buttress (16,200'), and the ridge crest is followed to high camp at 17,200'. The summit day may require over 12 hours round-trip. Descent to Kahiltna Base takes an additional 2-3 days from 17,000'.
Don't be in a hurry on the way up or down, for any reason, on Mount McKinley. Expeditions may take anywhere from fourteen to twenty-six days, but don't allow business considerations, airline schedules or family plans to compromise safety. Sometimes people want to rush off the mountain and get home; better to savor your time while up there! That is what is meant by doing the climb "in style."
Day 1: Travel
| 4:00 p.m. | Meet the guides at Anchorage International Airport (Domestic Terminal), carousel 1 in Alaska Airlines baggage claim. |
Shuttle transportation to Talkeetna is arranged by RMI (please see Travel Details). The shuttle leaves at 4:30 p.m. and it is a three hour drive to Talkeetna. The group will stop at a grocery store in Wasilla, for the opportunity to purchase any fresh food you'd like to bring on the mountain (cheese, salami, etc). The team will arrive in Talkeetna at approximately 9:00 p.m. Participants need overnight accommodations for that night and the following night. Guides, and most RMI climbers, stay at the Talkeetna Motel (please see Travel Details).
Day 2: Pre-Trip Preparation and Training
| 7:00 a.m. | Meet at The Roadhouse Restaurant, Talkeetna, AK |
There are a number of important items to accomplish in Talkeetna. After a breakfast meeting the team will attend a National Park Service presentation on expedition climbing and special considerations in Denali National Park & Preserve. Afterward, the guides will go through extensive personal equipment checks. Final recommendations and suggestions concerning gear will be made at that time. The team will also work on readying group food and equipment for the glacier flight to Kahiltna Base Camp.
Day 3: Flying to Kahiltna Base Camp
After breakfast we will meet at K-2 Aviation and begin shuttling members into Base Camp, weather permitting. The spectacular scenic flight requires approx. 45 minutes, one way. Fly to Base Camp 7,300'. Review of mountaineering techniques.
Days 4- 19: The Expedition
We build flexibility into our itinerary to take into account considerations such as weather, route conditions, acclimatization and the strength of the climbing team. This flexibility allows us to move higher when the weather permits and climbers are ready, not just because of the need to adhere to a pre-determined schedule. Our experienced guides closely monitor climbers’ performance and acclimatization throughout the team’s ascent and may make day-to-day variations in order to better your chances of reaching the summit. Twenty-two man-days of food are carried on the mountain above Base Camp. In the event of bad weather, this amount can be stretched several additional days. Furthermore, there are emergency food rations at Base Camp, in case weather prevents the group from flying off. Expeditions average 18 days roundtrip from Base Camp. It is best to allow an entire month for total completion, including travel time from home.
When climbing is done for the day, a campsite is selected and probed for crevasses. First, the site must be leveled, and tents pitched and anchored. Snow blocks are quarried and walls built to thwart the wind in case of a storm. A group kitchen is dug and cook tent erected. A designated latrine is established. Melting snow is an endless chore in camp, accomplished in the mornings and late into the evenings. All cooking and melting is done outside - never in a tent. It is important for the group to work together when establishing camps. As an integral part of the team, a willingness to pitch in is greatly appreciated.
DAY 4: Base to Camp 1, 8,000'
DAY 5: Camp 1 to Camp 2, 9,500'
DAY 6: Camp 2 to Camp 3, 11,000'
DAY 7: Acclimatization day Camp 3
DAY 8: Camp 3 to Cache 13,000'
DAY 9: Camp 3 to Camp 4, 14,400'
DAY 10: Camp 4 to Cache 13,000'
DAY 11: Acclimatization day Camp 4
DAY 12: Camp 4 to Cache 16,000'
DAY 13: Acclimatization day Camp 4
DAY 14: Camp 4 to Camp 5, 17,200'
DAY 15: Rest day Camp 5
DAY 16: Summit day (night at high camp)
DAY 17: Camp 5 to Camp 4
DAY 18: Camp 4 to Camp 1
DAY 19: Camp 1 to Base Camp (fly off)
Check out Seth Waterfall's Expedition Journal from his 2007 Mt. McKinley trip. Click here to find out the details of his daily expedition life.
Mt. McKinley West Buttress Equipment List
The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI 2012.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick
DUFFEL BAG: A 100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This duffel will be used on the mountain to transport gear in your sled.
BACKPACK: A 90+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. It is imperative that your backpack is large enough and tough enough to handle the load. A separate summit pack is not needed.
SLEEPING BAG:
A bag rated to -20° to -30° F. Either goose down or synthetic, with ample room for movement. Most guides prefer down, because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is preferred, but not mandatory.
The temperature rating system for sleeping bags is arbitrary and is not a guarantee of warmth. Base your selection on how well you do in the cold. If you tend to sleep on the cold side, choose a bag rated on the lower end of the temperature range. Using two sleeping bags together is not recommended.
SLEEPING PAD - CLOSED FOAM: A full-length or 3/4 length closed cell foam pad. This second sleeping pad is placed on top of the inflatable.
Technical Gear Guides' Pick
ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
CRAMPONS: The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
Two 60 cm 'Single-Length' pre-sewn slings. Need one for use with mechanical ascender, plus a second for security on the fixed lines. Dyneema or Dynex slings are preferable to nylon because they are thinner, stronger and easier to handle.
20' of nylon accessory cord for miscellaneous lashing.
Three bungee cords (approximately 12” – 18” each).
25' of 6mm perlon cord for sled tether, sled prussik and backpack 'ditch loop'.
SNOWSHOES: Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe. The 22" model and the optional heel lift work well for most climbers. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. The 'shoes should have an attached claw or crampon for better purchase. Miles of roped glacier travel will be logged wearing snowshoes. It is recommended to spend some time walking in them prior to the trip.
Head Guides' Pick
BUFF OR BANDANA: A buff or bandana provides good protection from the sun and dust as well as insulation from the cold, dry air.
2 PAIR GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.
GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.
HEADLAMP IS NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS TRIP
Hands Guides' Pick
HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
Upper Body Guides' Pick
2 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
DOWN PARKA WITH ATTACHED HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.
Lower Body Guides' Pick
CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.
HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
Feet Guides' Pick
MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: Expedition-style quality plastic double boot, with high altitude expedition-style inner boot is mandatory. Price is the best indicator. Though expensive, the function of footwear is of crucial importance. Select a brand's "top of the line" model and it should be sufficient for Denali. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). The idea is to adequately fill the volume of the boot, and to insulate. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance. Intuition Liners may be considered if you're looking to upgrade plastic boots for additional warmth, comfort and performance.
OVERBOOTS: Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude. All-in-one mountaineering boots do not need the added insulation of overboots.
BOOTIES: Goose down or synthetic fill. Booties can be worn inside of the overboots while walking around camp, which allows an opportunity to dry out inner boots.
GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick
MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.
CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS
2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
2 - 3 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS: These help prevent liquids from freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.
2 - 3 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
CAMERA
LIGHTER
Toilet Articles
TOOTHBRUSH
PEE BOTTLE: 1 to 1 1/2 quart size
Personal First Aid Kit
BAND-AIDS
ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL
MOLESKIN
ANTACIDS
IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)
PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)
SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE
Personal Medications
ANTIBIOTICS: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea.
TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain
ACETAZOLAMIDE: For Altitiude Illness
Utensils Guides' Pick
Optional Items Guides' Pick
SLEEPING MASK
READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL
iPOD or MP3 PLAYER
THERMOS
MOSQUITO REPELLANT: For Talkeetna.
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, and avalanche probes.
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.
Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.
Arrange Lodging in Talkeetna.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
On the expedition you will need lunch snacks for 22 days. Lunch items should weigh about 20 lbs. Breakfasts and dinners are provided by RMI while on the mountain.
Special Dietary Needs: Expedition food is packed well in advance. If you have any dietary restrictions, please let us know at the time of reservation.
Breakfasts and Dinners
Twenty-two man-days of food are carried on the mountain, which can be stretched in the event of bad weather. Additionally, a cache of emergency food is left at Kahiltna Base Camp.
The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried (Mountain House or Richmoor Natural High), and packaged main-course items (Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, Macaroni & Cheese). There is also cup-o-soup and various hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider), and dessert. Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.
Breakfasts consist of fresh food (bagels, cream cheese), bacon and eggs, instant oatmeal, instant grits, cold cereal (granola), breakfast bars, and hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider).
Properly taking care of oneself on the expedition begins with eating and drinking adequate amounts. Dehydration is always a concern; inadequate fluid intake can contribute to frostbite and other medical problems. It is recommended to drink 4-5 liters per day at altitude.
Finally, the question of vitamins always comes up. If vitamins are a part of your regular diet, then we recommend bringing those vitamins on the mountain. Otherwise, it is doubtful a person could seriously deplete vitamin stores in a 3-week period.
Lunch/Snacks
The importance of bringing lunch foods that you genuinely enjoy cannot be overstated. Good food is the key to maintaining health and happiness on long expeditions. It is necessary to have foods that stimulate the whole palate in order to combat loss of appetite at altitude. Cover the whole range of taste buds from sweet to sour to salty. Inevitably you will grow tired or even sick of certain types of foods. Thus, you need to have a wide variety of foods to have a larger "rotation" of food options.
In addition to supplying your body with nourishment, food is perhaps the best means for maintaining a positive mental attitude on long expeditions. The mental aspect of mountaineering is possibly the greatest challenge we face as climbers. Anybody can train physically, given enough time, but it is more difficult to prepare for the mental ordeal of waiting for the weather to clear. On poor weather days you will find that having an interesting variety of goodies in your food bag may be the difference between a mental annoyance and mental torture. Besides keeping yourself mentally healthy, a diverse food supply earns you fast friends as you barter with tent mates for savory snacks.
Take care while shopping for your lunch snacks. Don't wait for the last minute. Make a list in advance, and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer a large variety of gourmet and specialty foods, as well as your old, stand-by favorites. Keep in mind that, for the most part, McKinley stays cold enough to preserve perishable food for weeks.
Personal lunch suggestions: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy variety (sweet, sour), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), drink mix (Kool Aid, Crystal Light). Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna, but you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.
Sample of a guide's personal lunch/supplement food from a 2008 Mt. McKinley Expedition:
* 25 bars: mix of Cliff, Luna, and others
* 2 lbs of almond, dried cranberries and chocolate chip mix
* 2 packages of bagels
* 2 packages of whole wheat tortillas
* 2 blocks of cheese - pepper jack & sharp cheddar
* 1 Hickory Farms summer sausage
* 1 pepperoni stick
* 1 package Little Smokies
* 2 packs of smoked salmon
* 1 pack of turkey jerky
* 2 cans each: clams, oysters
* 1 container of peanut butter & jelly mix
* 2 packages of crackers (Chicken in a Biscuit & Wheat Thins)
* 2 cans of potato chips (Pringles)
* 2 lbs + GORP mix
* 1 box of Ginger Snaps
* 1 box of graham crackers
* 1 container of hummus
* 1 bag of carrots
* 1 package of dried mangos
* 1 bag of chocolate covered espresso beans & dried blueberries
* 25 mixed candies (lifesavers, jolly ranchers, gummy worms, sweet tarts, toffee, mints)
* 1 small container of sweet mustard
* Gatorade mix & small travel size Crystal Light packets
Qualifications
Expedition participants must have previous glacier travel experience and be familiar with various snow and ice techniques. Prior completion of an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier or in Alaska or equivalent instruction in a mountaineering course is required for team membership. Previous experience at altitude (Kilimanjaro, Mexico, Aconcagua, etc.) is always a benefit. However, altitude experience is not a substitute for the skills that are required for this expedition. Please complete the McKinley Registration Form for qualification.
Mount Rainier offers some of the best training opportunities because the combination of weather, altitude, and terrain so closely resembles the environs encountered on Mount McKinley. Furthermore, gaining these skills on Mount Rainier allows our staff to get to know you, and in turn provides you the opportunity to see how RMI guides conduct themselves on a mountain. This makes for a very strong expedition team in Alaska and is integral to our success guiding on Denali since 1975.
When submitting the McKinley Registration form, prospective climbers should list in detail all formal instruction (please indicate the provider, date, length and curriculum) together with all associated outdoor experience on snow & ice, rock, scrambling, backpacking, skiing, snowshoeing, and so forth.
Applicants must have:
- A current active training program
- Formal training and confidence with basic mountaineering skills as listed below (these techniques can be acquired on any of our various Expedition Skills Seminars on Mt. Rainier or in Alaska)
Formal basic mountaineering skills training:
- Roped glacier travel experience
- Snow anchors (construction, placement, equalization; placing pickets and ice screws; digging deadman and bollards)
- Rope handling skills
- Belaying theory and technique
- Running belays
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Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuers perspective)
- Anchor selection
- Pulley methods - C and Z systems
- Site considerations: Location. Weather. Severity of injury. Pack/sled weight - Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
- Knots & slings - prussik, butterfly, Munter, etc.
- Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
- Cramponing
- Technical ice climbing (single tool and double tool placement)
- Snow camp construction
(Please Note: various techniques will be reviewed at Kahiltna Base Camp before beginning our ascent of Mount McKinley. However, this review is not a substitute in lieu of training.)
Fitness for Mountaineering
Mountaineering is a tough endurance sport, and the importance of good conditioning cannot be overstated. In training, we want to mirror, as best we can, the physical activities that we will be performing in the mountains. Your primary focus should be gaining the necessary strength and stamina needed to go up and down steep slopes with a backpack.
It is imperative that you undertake a rigorous conditioning program prior to your trip and arrive in top physical shape. Here are some proven suggestions to get you ready for the physical challenge.
Start training immediately. The more time you have to get in shape, the better.
Cardiovascular training (such as running and cycling) and strength and endurance training (such as weight training and stair climbing) should both be included in your program.
Start cardiovascular training by running, biking, hill climbing, or using step machines. Try exercising for an hour or more per session, and keep your heart rate and respirations at a reasonably high level, without over doing it. Three to four long training sessions per week are going to be more beneficial than short daily workouts. The intensity of your workout should reflect the level of effort we anticipate needing to climb the last 1,000' to the summit.
Begin your strength training by working on muscle groups used in mountaineering. Specifically, you want to target your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, back and shoulder muscles.
There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill hiking. Get outside and go on extended hikes with a weighted backpack 2 - 3 times per week. Try hiking for 60 to 90 minutes at a time with a 10 - 15 minute break after each segment. Begin your training program with a 20 - 25 pound pack and work up gradually to the approximate weight expected to be carried on the climb. If there are no hills nearby, stairs work fine for training, especially if you can find a taller multiple storied buildings or stadium steps. When working out in a gym, use stair stepping machines and treadmills with a weighted pack. Additionally, treadmills raised up to the full 15 degrees will be more beneficial than running on relatively flat terrain.
Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!
This sounds like a lot of work... and it is. With our daily schedules busy with family, work, and other important commitments, it can be difficult to set aside time for training. But being physically prepared for your climb is the single most important thing you can do to increase your chances of standing on the summit. It's also more enjoyable.
For more detailed information regarding conditioning, please see the Fitness for Mountaineering document.
Acclimatization
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize.
The key to climbing Mt. McKinley is proper acclimatization. The adage, "Climb high and sleep low", is the way we climb, and it is for very good reason. Moving slowly up the mountain, following a calculated ascent profile, allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude. In addition to a proper rate of ascent, your performance is often related to how well an individual has taken care of himself/herself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to arrival at High Camp. Proper hydration, nutrition, and warmth must be maintained on a daily basis throughout the expedition. Anyone can experience a "bad day", but what is important is to keep a Positive Mental Attitude.
The prophylactic use of Diamox is not generally recommended by RMI, but this is a personal choice. Please consult your physician if you wish to add this medication to your first aid kit. Used as a sleeping aid for your first night at high camp, it can be quite beneficial. Or if someone is having trouble acclimating, it may help that person remain on the mountain. Our guides cannot arbitrarily dispense this drug, and consequently, the need for having your own personal supply.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for the last 8 years, and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Air Travel
RMI guides arrive in Anchorage the afternoon a trip is scheduled to begin. The guides and climbers form up at 4:00 p.m., Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1. When arranging transportation, if your flight cannot arrive in Alaska before 3:30 p.m. it will be necessary to arrive a day earlier, and go to the airport to meet the team.
Airfare should be booked to depart Anchorage one month after your arrival date. When you return to Anchorage, you can reschedule your return flight at the ticket counter or over the phone. Depending on the airline, a change of date penalty is usually charged at this time. We have found scheduling a future date usually works better than an open-ended ticket or missing an early return date.
The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) will begin requiring airlines to collect additional passenger information. This effort is part of the Secure Flight pre-screening program. TSA will require you to provide your full name, date of birth and gender as it is shown on the identification document that you plan to present at airport security check-points. You must begin making your reservations using your full name, matching exactly the ID you plan to present at the airport. Collection of your date of birth and gender will be mandatory beginning August 15th, 2009. If you submit that information at time of booking your reservation you can avoid delays at check-in. Finally, verify your name on your frequent traveler profiles. If you signed up using a name other than your name as shown on your identification, you should contact each frequent traveler program to update your name to match Secure Flight's full name requirement.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to purchase travel insurance which covers trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation and repatriation. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details including adventure/sports coverage. Additional cancellation coverage may be available if purchased within 14 days of making your trip deposit. However, trip insurance can be purchased at any time prior to the start of your program.
For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | International Health Insurance |
| Travelex Insurance | Erin Rountree |
Personal Medical Insurance
We recommend that you purchase medical insurance for your expedition as most standard insurance does not cover mountaineering. International Health Insurance (IHI) provides coverage for annual travel or a single trip. For additional information including coverage, benefits and premiums or to book online visit International Health Insurance.
Getting to Talkeetna
Talkeetna is a three-hour drive from Anchorage. We will arrange a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna at 4:30 p.m. the day your program begins. If you wish to join this transfer, please arrive in Anchorage no later than 3:30 p.m. The shuttle price is $180 per person round-trip. We recommend contacting Denali Overland Transport to make your reservation and payment in advance. Please contact (907) 733-2385 with credit card information and the date of your program. If you are traveling to Talkeetna on your own, please let RMI know in advance that you will not require transportation.
Lodging
Participants will need overnight accommodations in Talkeetna. Programs usually require a total of three nights in Talkeetna: two nights before flying onto the glacier, and one night after you return from the mountain. Weather and flying conditions can change the number of days spent in Talkeetna. Advanced reservations for lodging are recommended, and we suggest reserving rooms three months prior to your expedition. There are several different options for lodging in Talkeetna with something to fit every comfort level. The Talkeetna Motel is where all of our guides stay while in town, and there is a discount for RMI climbers. Their phone is (907) 733-2323.
In the event bad weather prevents us flying to the mountain on schedule, you should have extra money for meals and lodging in Talkeetna. It is not necessary to book a room in advance for our return to Talkeetna at the end of the climb.
Weather
Mt. McKinley's weather forecast is updated through the National Weather Service
Tipping
Our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program.
Resources
Bass, D., Wells, F., Ridgeway, R. Seven Summits 1986
Beckey, Fred Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 1993
Bezruhka, Stephen Altitude Illness - Prevention & Treatment 2001
Cole, Terence The Sourdough Expedition: Stories of the Pioneer Alaskans Who Climbed Mount McKinley in l910 1985
Davidson, Art Minus 148: The Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley 1986
Houston, Charles Going Higher: The Story of Man and Altitude 1987
Mason, Gene Minus Three 1970
Michener, James A. Alaska 1988
Moore, Terris Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs 1981
Randall, Francis Denali Diary: Letters from McKinley 1987
Selters, Andy Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue 1990
Sherwonit, Bill To The Top of Denali 1990
Sherwonit, Bill Denali: The Complete Guide 2002
Snyder, Howard The Hall of the Mountain King 1973
Stuck, Hudson The Ascent of Denali 1914
Washburn, B., Roberts, D. Mount McKinley - The Conquest of Denali 1991
Waterman, Jon High Alaska 1989
Waterman, Jon Surviving Denali: Accidents 1910 - 1990
Payments
A deposit of $1,500 per person along with a McKinley Registration Form is required to secure your reservation. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 90 days prior to the start of your program. We will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. Trips departing within 90 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation. Please note that credit cards are not accepted for balance payment; check or wire transfer only.
Cancellations
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire trip the following fees will apply. A fee of $750 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 90 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 90 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy. Registration monies cannot be carried forward to future years.
We strongly encourage everyone to purchase travel insurance which covers trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation and repatriation. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details including adventure/sports coverage. Additional cancellation coverage may be available if purchased within 14 days of making your trip deposit. However, trip insurance can be purchased at any time prior to the start of your program.
For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | International Health Insurance |
| Travelex Insurance | Erin Rountree |
Change of Date
Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 60 days prior to your departure date. A $250 fee will be charged per person for all date changes made more than 60 days prior to the program.
Land Cost
The current fee includes:
- RMI Leadership
- Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain
- Group equipment (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, sleds, etc.)
- Bush pilot service between Talkeetna and base camp*
*If you depart the trip early you may be subject to additional bush pilot fees.
The fee does not include:
- Airfare to Alaska
- Ground transportation between Anchorage and Talkeetna (however, this will be arranged by RMI)
- Accommodations and meals while not on the mountain
- Lunch during the climb
- Customary guide gratuities
- National Park Service Cost Recovery Fee is $350 for Mt. McKinley climbers. Payable via cash or credit card only. (The fee amount is $250 for climbers ages 24 and under).
Risk Management
Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Climber Responsibilities
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:
- is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
- honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international.
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
Accompaniment by parent or legal guardian is required for the program or climb.
Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.
General Policies
RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.