Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Spend Their First Night Acclimatizing at Camp 1

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 19,900'

Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from Camp 1 on Mount Everest. A good day for us up here. We got up this morning at about 6:00 in the morning and set out at 8:00 to explore the last couple of ladder crossings in the Western Cwm, they go about halfway to Camp 2. Our intention today was just exercise and getting to know the lay of the land. Our hope is tomorrow to get a good acclimatization hike in going all the way to Camp 2 and then coming back down here to Camp 1 for that next night. The afternoon today after we get back to camp was pretty quiet. It was snowing lightly, kinda socked in. We just took the opportunity to rest and recuperate inside our tents and continue our acclimatization process. Thank you.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide and Everest Expedition Leader, Dave Hahn, calling in from Camp 1.

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10

Sending good thoughts for the safety and well being of your team.

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Posted by: 1313harbor on 4/25/2015 at 4:30 am

JJ and all expedition members,
I send out my prayers for your safe return.
Penny from Montana

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Posted by: Penny James on 4/25/2015 at 4:28 am


Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Success to Camp 1

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 19,900'

The 2015 Mt. Everest season has been a tough start with big snow storms here at base camp, but full steam ahead right now.  The snow that kept us from moving up earlier has blossomed to some nice days.  You would be amazed at the difference on the glacier since last week.  Rivers running, pools forming and a route through the ice fall that has allowed a reasonable ascent to Camp 1, where the team is at this very moment.  I just got off the radio with Dave and word is, all well.  I was able to follow the team’s climb up the ice fall with my tripod-mounted spotting scope.  They were at times obscured from view by huge ice towers and the route taking them down into the depths of the glacier, out of sight, and then minutes later they would they pop back into view. Their training, adjusting to the altitude and experience at this sort of wild climbing paid off with what I can guarantee you was one of the most amazing and memorable days in these mountaineers climbing careers.  So proud of this group as I watched them progress through the Khumbu Icefall working the mountain, assisting each other, and sticking together in pure style and grace. Way to go team!

RMI Guide and Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker

Dave Hahn called in after reaching Camp 1 and his audio is posted below.

Climbers moving through the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: RMI Collection New snow on Mt. Everest, Nepal. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Everest Expedition Leader, Dave Hahn, calling in from Camp 1.

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Phantastic and best wishes to all of you!
You passed the first barrier and I hope you arrived safe in Camp 2! It´s really great to follow your climb!read more

Posted by: Ute Novak on 4/24/2015 at 6:21 am

Dave & Team - absolutely fascinating following your journey.  I wake up at 2 AM to read the blogs now.  They are becoming very interesting—passing the icefalls and making high… read more

Posted by: Mary on 4/24/2015 at 5:35 am


RMI Guide Alex Barber Establishes Camp 4 on Annapurna

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 22, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Climbed up and established Annapurna Camp 4 today.

The other climbers here at Camp 4 are talking about continuing on and making a try at the summit this evening (leaving here at ~9pm), because there is a storm forecast for tomorrow afternoon. This is not for me, so I’ll have to decide whether to make my summit attempt early tomorrow morning and risk being in a storm as I descend, or turn back and wait for a better weather window.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

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2

Good to stick with your decisions and not someone else. 

Godspeed.

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Posted by: Mary on 4/23/2015 at 6:57 am

Go concur the world!

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Posted by: David deRoode on 4/23/2015 at 6:55 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Gets Ready to Move

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Today was a well-earned rest day for all.  But it was also a day of getting ready to go higher; carefully selecting food and gear for what we hope to be a three night stay at Camp One, above the Icefall.  We’ve had a longer stay at comfy Base Camp than we’d expected, and so it will be a little tough committing to the normal discomforts of a camp in the snow at 20,000 ft, but in the plus column, we will be a little better acclimated than we might have been with an earlier foray to the Western Cwm.  And we are eager to get on with the climb… Which is a big plus.
Our enthusiasm is tempered by the looming prospect of bidding a teammate goodbye.  Larry Seaton has been climbing hard and pushing himself to extremes in the face of a number of physical setbacks.  True to character, he isn’t satisfied with staggering up Mount Everest at or beyond his limit… Larry has always been an asset to his climbing teams and won’t chance being a liability to this one.  He’ll bow out and will head towards home in the near future.  Obviously the team feels for Larry and regrets losing a key member, but we all applaud his prudent decision.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Tents aglow at Everest Base Camp on the eve before Camp 1 rotation. Photo: JJ Justman

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Larry
You are a great example, mentor and teacher.  I really admire how you manage to stay so objective and realistic.  Thank you!
Your friend and admirer,  read more

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 4/24/2015 at 1:29 pm

Larry, please be proud of all you have accomplished, you earned it…great to read the posts and see photos. Have a safe trip home to the Napa Valley.  Take care.

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Posted by: Sabrina Tanner on 4/23/2015 at 5:07 pm


RMI Guide Alex Barber Weighing His Summit Bid Options

Posted by: Alex Barber | April 21, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Tonight I’m in Camp 3. This camp is hands down the most ridiculous camp I’ve ever made. It’s perched atop a small serac maybe 20’ by 20’ with huge drops on three sides. A 150 feet overhanging ice cliff is what I’m tucked under… to protect from avalanches. Yikes!

The past three days I’ve spent making my way up Annapurna. The first day (the 19th) I left Base Camp with two Sherpa guides to re-open the route after a week of snow. But on the way to Camp 1 and after arriving in Camp 1, I was observing avalanche activity that was just too frequent for my comfort to continue pushing on to Camp 2 (as was our original plan). Shortly after making the call to stop for the day at Camp 1, a massive avalanche broke high on Annapurna. Rumbling toward us, I thought, for a moment, it was gonna hit us but luckily it just dusted Camp 1 with a cloud of snow and a large gust of wind.

The 20th I made my way to Camp 2 and found my tent, that I had set up on April 4th when I first established the camp, buried under 7ft of snow. Three and a half hours later I had my tent unburied and patched up. Today, the 21st, I tackled the most technical and dangerous section of Annapurna. Namely, a 3,200-foot climb through steep alpine ice with large seracs always above you. Just think of ice blocks the size of tractor trailers just waiting their turn to rumble down the mountain side. About mid-way through the climb I broke one of the straps on my Millet 8000m boots. Taking refuge beneath a massive serac I quickly jimmy-rigged a fix and kept climbing. The key in these regions is to move as fast as is safe and possible for you.

This evening at Camp 3 I’m sharing this small ice pedestal with another team. We barely fit. Just as dark set in a large stove fire erupted in a tent adjacent to mine. Luckily I had my down suit and inner boots on and could rush out to help reduce the fire. Myself and a few other climbers rushed to kick gas canisters and oxygen bottles out of the fire; throwing snow on it, and principally focusing on preventing the other tents from catching fire. Unbelievably no one was injured! The tent and many of the occupant’s belongings were lost to the fire, but everyone is safe now.

It’s quite windy here tonight. Not sustained, but you can hear the gusts approaching from the distance. Not sure what my game plan is for tomorrow, either head to Camp 4 and make a summit attempt tomorrow evening; in which case I’d be racing a forecasted storm to the summit, or head back to Base Camp and wait for a more stable window.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

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2

Whoa….....what an interesting trip so far, but slow and steady you go.  Good luck on the judgment call to go forward or take a step back. 

Just don’t quit… read more

Posted by: Mary on 4/22/2015 at 6:22 am

Good luck; be safe.

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Posted by: Lisa on 4/22/2015 at 3:29 am


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Expedition Stats

Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
1/10 - 1/24/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/4 - 1/27/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
1/6 - 1/19/2015
Cayambe - 17,000' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Ecuador's Volcanoes
1/20 - 1/30/2015
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/11 - 2/3/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari
1/24 - 2/7/2015
Kilimanjaro - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/18 - 2/10/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/3 - 2/16/2015
Cayambe - 16,500' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/26 - 2/18/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
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  • Climbers moving through the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: RMI Collection
  • New snow on Mt. Everest, Nepal. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Tents aglow at Everest Base Camp on the eve before Camp 1 rotation. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Dave Hahn leads the Everest team on an acclimatization hike to Kala Patar. | JJ Justman
  • Ascending thru the ladders of the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa teams and guide attempt to navigate through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa and guides going through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Horseshoes at RMI Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • 2015 Sherpa World Championship Horseshoes. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Significant avalanche shown in center bottom of Annapurna photo. Photo: Alex Barber
  • Annapurna route past Camp 2. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Panorama of Base Camp with Annapurna being the left most peak.  Photo: Alex Barber
  • Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection
  • Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection
  • Views along the trail to Kalapathar- hike from Everest BC.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Dave Hahn leading the way to Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The 2015 RMI Everest team at Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Grom & Team celebrate at Baskin Robbins in Kathmandu, Nepal. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The 2015 Everest Icefall Doctors- Stout ladder load. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI Guide and Everest BC Manager, Mark Tucker, crushing the ball. Photo: JJ Justman
  • An RMI team playing golf at Everest BC. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The Everest team training in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team practices with crampons on ladders. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team training on fixed ropes in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team's training day on fixed rope. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Climbers walking through the streets of Lukla.  Photo: RMI Collection