Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move to 14,000 Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

July 4, 2015 1:11 am PST

This was the day.  The weather was a whole lot better than the last few days, but it wasn’t perfect.  A little blustery.  We needed to take advantage though to get out of 11,000’  and up to 14,000’ Camp.  Even having had a handful of teams break trail on the route before we made our effort today, we still anticipated a tough haul with knee deep snow on such steep hills.  Motorcycle took longer than normal, Squirrel took longer, the Polo Fields went on forever, Windy Corner was windy (and it took longer).  It was all pretty tough going until we got around the corner and reached our cache location from the other day.  Finally there was less new snow, less wind and a decent track to follow.  It was still uphill though.  It took us 8.5 hours to cover what should have taken 6 hours, but what a wonderful feeling to roll into 14 Camp after thinking of it so much when we were stuck down below.  We’ve got different and magnificent views now, of Denali, but also of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter and about a thousand other peaks when the clouds allow.  We did a late dinner after camp was built and then hurried in to the tents for the night.  It is colder up here, and colder still when the sun goes behind the mountain.  Everybody deserves good rest after such a big day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JJ Justman | July 04, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early today.  Both teams were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 6:30 am.  RMI Guide JJ Justman reported clear skies and warm temperatures. They will make a short stop at Camp Muir before continuing down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climbs teams!  Happy Independence Day!

Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall

Peru Seminar: The Team Summits Ishinca!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

¡Buenas tardes! The team is back at Basecamp after a great, successful day on 18,143ft Ishinca. Everyone climbed well up the southeast glacier, which provided a steep, yet sun-cupped summit ridge. An early summit allowed us to descend via the southweat side, completing an up and over traverse of the mountain; extra credit for everyone! We’re now looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow, keeping an eye on the weather as our beautiful summit day turned into a dust of unexpected snow at Basecamp this evening.

Best regards from Perú!

RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Robby Young and team

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Congrats Robby and team!  Living vicariously through these posts. What an adventure. Greetings from sunny Traverse City fourth of July morning. Safe travels On descent.

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Posted by: Victoria Sutherland on 7/4/2015 at 4:48 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Enjoy the Views Atop Fuya Fuya

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 13,986'

We packed our bags and left the hustle and bustle of Quito behind this morning, driving north towards the town of Otavalo for our next acclimatization climb. Along the way we had great views of Cotopaxi and Cayambe, the second and third highest peaks in Ecuador, respectively, and our major climbing objectives on this trip.

As for our objective for today, we climbed the ancient volcano Fuya Fuya. The weather couldn’t have been nicer as we summited the 14,000’ peak in t-shirts. On top we had great views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and even the top of the ever elusive Antisana, the fourth highest peak in Ecuador.

Our team did great on the climb today, negotiating steep terrain and a little rock scramble. Now we’re at our hacienda, Casa Sol, for the night where a shower, dinner, and a cerveza are on our to do list. After a good night’s rest tonight we’ll head to the famous Otavalo Market in the morning and then up to the climbers hut in the afternoon.

I’ll check in again mañana.
RMI Guide Mike Walter

The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter

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Forbidden Peak: Davis & Team Summit!

Posted by: Leon Davis, Sid Pattison | July 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

RMI Guides Leon Davis and Sid Pattison led their team to the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge today. Leon reported great but hot weather during the climb. They also enjoyed a quiet route with only one other party climbing today.

Congratulations to our North Cascades climbers!

The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller

More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/26 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/26 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/9 - 6/28/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
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  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mike Walter and Team checking out the Equator. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • RMI Camp at 17,200' on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Fresh Snow at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team on Squirrel Hill, Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Peru Seminar team from the hills above Huaraz. Photo: Robby Young
  • Huaraz, Peru, as seen from the RMI team's acclimating hike. Photo: Robby Young
  • Climbers on the ridge en route to Camp 5 at 17,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.
  • RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection