Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Set Up Camp at 14,200’

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, May 22nd 5:52 pm PDT

The day dawned (that is, the sun rose since it’s always some shade of dawn or dusk but never night) with blue skies and calm air in camp, so we hit the rally button, gobbled breakfast and set about breaking camp to head to 14,200 ft. As we climbed, clouds started to appear and stream over our heads and we knew that winds were building. Windy Corner lived up to its name, but it was really only unpleasant for a short while, with wind whipping snow and ice pellets into our face. As soon as we passed the Windy Corner, the winds died and the oven turned on. It’s a long move to 14k Camp, and once we arrived the work wasn’t over. We set about building walls, a new kitchen, and getting everything bomb proofed. Now we’re settled into our new digs, happy, warm, and content. 14k Camp really is the cat’s meow. Tomorrow we’ll retrieve our cache, and it will be great to be fully settled.

Until then,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK surrounded by fortified walls. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. Rainier: May 23rd Update

Posted by: Brent Okita | May 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,200'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Low visibility and windy conditions prevented the team from climbing above 13,200 ft. The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing on to Ashford this afternoon.

RMI climbers ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier in poor visibility. Photo: Ed Viesturs

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,200’ Camp Waiting for Better Weather

Posted by: Billy Haas, Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall | May 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 22, 2015 - 5:01 pm PT

Once again we find ourselves resting at the 14,200’ camp on Denali’s West Buttress. This is our second rest/acclimatization day at this camp, and we are feeling stronger each day. The weather is quite pleasant here in camp, with partly sunny skies and barely a breath of wind. The story is a bit different up higher on the mountain, where strong winds are streaming snow off of the West Buttress. Winds are forecast to increase and there is a high wind advisory for tomorrow and tomorrow night. That means we’re planning to stay put in our comfortable and secure camp for the next couple of days while we wait for more reasonable weather in which to climb.  We’ll keep you updated…

RMI Guide Mike Walter & team

An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, Mt. Foraker in the background.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take A Weather Day at 11,200’

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young | May 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 21, 2015 - 11:31 pm PT

Mt. McKinley made it abundantly clear today that we were welcome to stay in the tents, but were not welcome to move higher. Big snow plumes above us and swirling clouds, snow, and wind in camp made the decision to rest for the day easy. We passed the time with a long brunch, some tent time, and another long dinner session hanging out in the posh. This evening our visibility improved, the sun shone through, and the winds diminished, so we’re hopeful that we’ll take a take two tomorrow and head up to 14,000’. Keep your finger crossed for us.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard and team

An RMI Team taking a weather day at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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2

Thinking of you all up there.  McKinley is showing both her sides to you, will definately cross fingers she will start behaving tomorrow and let you guys through.
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Posted by: lori on 5/22/2015 at 3:17 pm

Team Pete that sounds like the best decision.  Keep spirits up we are all praying for better weather and safety for all for the rest of your journey. Thanks for… read more

Posted by: Terri on 5/22/2015 at 12:14 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Arrive at Camp 1

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Andy Hildebrand, Nick Hunt | May 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

May 21, 2015 - 10:46 pm PT

The team has made it to Camp 1 in almost perfect style. I am on my seventh Denali climb as a guide and have never gone from Base Camp to Camp 1 with such seamlessness.  No one had a single sled issue or cursed my name for giving them so much gear.  No one got a blister or fell behind a single second.  Like I said earlier, I am very pleased with this team.  One day down, who knows how many more to go. 
Stay tuned for tomorrow’s report.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

An RMI Team pulling sled from from Base Camp en route to Camp 1 on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Chris Villar

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6

We sure hope the weather holds clear and bright the rest of your journey. Safe climbing to the whole team. Keep up the good work and good luck to you… read more

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 5/23/2015 at 3:14 am

Way to go team! Glad all is well. We sure are routing for y’all. Greetings from Texas! Yee,haw!!

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Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 5/22/2015 at 5:20 pm


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
14,410' - 12300
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
14,410' - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
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  • 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK surrounded by fortified walls. Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI climbers ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier in poor visibility. Photo: Ed Viesturs
  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, Mt. Foraker in the background.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team taking a weather day at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team pulling sled from from Base Camp en route to Camp 1 on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Chris Villar
  • An RMI team fortifies snow walls for protection from the wind at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the fixed lines outside of 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The May 19th McKinley team preparing for the climb in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • The May 19th McKinley team ready to fly in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner
  • An RMI Alaska Seminar Team navigating the glacier.  Photo: Kel Rossiter
  • Prayer flags fly at Everest Base Camp with Pumori summit behind.  Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Camp at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from Kahiltna Base Camp.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Posh tent set up at 14,000 ft Camp.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The Summit Ridge of Radio Tower. RMI Photo Collection
  • View from Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley.  RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. RMI Photo Collection