Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings from Huaraz!

We have arrived to the Andean capital of climbing after our standard eight-hour bus ride from Lima. Everyone is doing great and growing in excitement to get into the range soon. The highlight of the day was to see the Cordillera Blanca as clear as it could be from about two hours out, on a strategic bus stop; a few gasps of amazement were audible.
Tomorrow we’ll start our acclimatization process with a morning hike on the surrounding hills, to be continued by a packing session before hitting the trails for good the next morning.

That’s it for now from Huaraz,

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Settled into 11K Camp for an Extended Stay

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday June 28th 10:22 pm PT

Once again, the weather was a little sloppy in the early hours, so we didn’t get out of the tents until the civilized hour of 7AM.  It was still pretty well socked in at 9,500 ft as we ate breakfast, but things seemed workable for moving up.  We were on the go by 10:00 and in our new camp at 11,000 ft by 1PM.  The clouds cleared from time to time, giving us some great views of the end of the West Buttress.  Luckily, clouds hung in there enough to keep the sun off the final steeper hills into camp.  We dug in and got settled in our new home.  It is a relief, after building four camps in four days, to know that we’ll get to stay in this one for a few days.  The afternoon and evening were spent resting and sorting food and gear.  If possible, we’ll do a carry to 13,500 ft tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Teams Unable to Summit

Posted by: JJ Justman, Tyler Jones | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

The lightning storm prevented the Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams from reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  RMI Guide JJ Justman reported that the teams turned at 11,400’ to seek shelter at Camp Muir.
Their plan is to descend from Camp Muir around 8:30 am PST.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

 

3

Hey guys, I woke up about 12:30 to the sound of thunder at the Bunkhouse. I sat on the picnic table and watched the light show while hoping you would… read more

Posted by: kelly gaddis on 6/29/2015 at 12:26 pm

I bet you all had quite a show.  Stay safe!

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Posted by: Gillian on 6/29/2015 at 7:17 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 5:18pm PST

Resting here at 14 after a big day yesterday. Clouds and sunshine are in and out along with the occasional bout of flurries. Nothing major to report. Now that we are poised and ready we are just playing a chess match against the weather. Hoping to get that window that will take us to the summit...

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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3

Thoughts are with you as you push for High Camp…go team.

Doug - “A world without dragons is a world not worth living in.”  ― R.A. Salvatore, Streams of Silver

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Posted by: Belladonna on 6/29/2015 at 1:04 pm

Enjoy your adventure…live your dream

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Posted by: Jeff Dunfield on 6/29/2015 at 12:39 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back In Talkeetna

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:15 am PT

It was touch and go at base camp. We woke up to clouds and some very wet snow. As expected, as soon as we started to fire up the stoves to make breakfast and hot drinks, the skies started to open just a bit. I still didn’t think that the weather was flight worthy, but I was glad that the pilots did. We were told that we had 20 minutes to be packed and ready because the planes were already approaching. We were ready in 10! We got the first half of our team onto a plane and off the glacier before the weather started to sock back in. We had to wait for the first plane to go back to Talkeetna, drop off our first group of climbers, and then return. Luckily the weather cleared back up a bit and we squeaked out the rest of the climbers for the amazing flight back to the world of great food and pillows. After a couple of great meals and a series of showers, the now legendary “El Siete” crew is fresh, semi-recovered, and ready to be reintroduced into society. 

Thank you to the group for being such a great team and for all of the families and friends that have supported us.

RMI 7 “El Siete”

The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen

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3

  I want to say, once again, to Mike Haugen about these daily posts and pictures: it has meant so much to the families of these fine climbers. Thank you,… read more

Posted by: Chris on 6/28/2015 at 5:06 pm

  Whoopee! So glad to have you off the mountain safe and secure at last. Doug is that you standing to the left? I can see everyone is proud and… read more

Posted by: Chris on 6/28/2015 at 5:03 pm


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'
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  • RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen
  • Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cotopaxi as seen from the Jose Ribas Refugio. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Seminar team with Cotopaxi in the background. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI climber ascending the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, WA. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Tents covered in snow at McKinley Base Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley, Alaska. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi, Ecuador. Photo: RMI Collection
  • A stormy day at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, AK for an RMI Team. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Traversing off Disappointment Cleaver on Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Ecuador Seminar enjoys a rainbow seen from Illiniza Norte, Ecuador, acclimating climb. Photo: Mike Walter
  • An RMI team traveling across the Polo Fields, Mount McKinley, back to 11K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Cache at Windy Corner, Mount McKinley, with climbers in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Views of the Cassin Ridge on Mt. McKinley as an RMI team flies into Kahiltna Base. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • K2 lands at Kahiltna Base on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Katy Reid
  • Dave Hahn and team pose for a photo at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The June 23rd McKinley Expedition ready to board the plane. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Talkeetna Ranger Station mountain stats. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn's team pre-trip meeting with the National Park Service. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Weighing and sorting gear at the K2 Aviation Hangar. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • An RMI team ascending from Denali's 11,000' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection