Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Zeb Blais, Eric Frank | May 25, 2015
Categories:
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just before 8 am PT.  Eric reported clear skies with chilly temperatures and a 20 mph wind.
The teams will enjoy some time on the crater before starting their descent to Camp Muir.  After a brief rest at Camp Muir they will continue down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

5

Congratulations Bridget and Patrick!! Have a safe trip back down!

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Posted by: katie marsh on 5/25/2015 at 11:15 am

Congratulations Bridget and Patrick!! The first of many more adventures for the two of you! Your aunt Barb would be so proud!!

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Posted by: Mom and Dad McLoone on 5/25/2015 at 11:02 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Retrieve Cashe and return to 11,200’

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Andy Hildebrand, Nick Hunt | May 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 24, 2015 - 11:48 pm PT

Hello again from 11,000ft!

We woke up this morning to a fresh dumping of snow at camp, covering our tents and cook tent. First order of business this morning was getting everything dug out and reinforcing our snow walls.

The weather was still looking a little squirrelly afterwards, so we opted for a bit of a relaxed breakfast while we continued to watch what was going on outside. After a couple hours, our patience was rewarded and things cleared up enough for us to get organized and take off downhill to retrieve our cache at 9800’.  We made down, grabbed our cached goods, and jammed back uphill in good time. This is a strong team! Everyone just keeps going and is having fun!

Once back at 11,000’ with all our gear, the weather made a turn for the better. The skies cleared out, the winds died down, and the sun warmed us as we relaxed for the rest of the evening. If all goes well, we’ll push up to 13,500’ tomorrow to cache our gear around Windy Corner in preparation for our move to 14k.

Goodnight for now!
RMI Guide Nick Hunt and the rest of the team

An RM Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with new snow.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

2

Brrrr!!! Keep warm up there! Sending positive thoughts your way for clear weather. Keep up the hard work and dedication…every day you all are closer than the day before :)

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Posted by: Shana on 5/25/2015 at 1:26 pm

Good work team. Hunker down and wait out the snow. Stay strong and know we are thinking of you and very proud of all of you.  Cheers, Connie

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Posted by: Connie Whitley on 5/25/2015 at 8:32 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Hoping for Better Weather

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer | May 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 24, 2015 - 9:30 pm PT

The wind and snow continued through the night and into today. We spent the night listening to the roar of a freight train of wind above us on the West Buttress. The max gust through camp, according to the NPS weather station was 52 mph. That wind and snow put a few holes in our posh tent, and knocked over a few walls, so we spent the morning stitching up holes and rebuilding walls. Otherwise we fared pretty well through the blizzard. This afternoon things started to subside, and by evening the sun was showing, sparkling off of the small snowflakes that are hanging in the air. Our hope is that that trend will carry through tomorrow, and we’ll have the visibility to head back down and retrieve our cache from Windy Corner. Fingers crossed. The change in weather has also caused a change in the general mood of camp, and we’re listening to laughing, joking, jovial voices all over camp. We’ll let you know how things go tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young, and team

An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley fortifies snow walls and clears tents after new snow.  Photo: Dave Hahn

On The Map

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2

Hi Renee, sitting at Melbourne Airport now waiting for my flight over! Can’t wait to see you. Hope the weather improves from now on. Ralph and Meissa send there love… read more

Posted by: Jordan on 5/25/2015 at 1:34 pm

Matt glad to hear you all withstand the winds!! Sounds like everyone is in good spirits, Miss you bunch.  I have been following the weather on the app you sent… read more

Posted by: Terri on 5/25/2015 at 7:12 am


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team in a Holding Pattern at 14,200’

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 24, 2015 - 3:35 pm PT

Well, there iss not much new to report today. We’re still waiting out the weather here at 14,200 ft on Denali. Last night was windy and snowy, with gusts up to 52 mph here in camp. There is lots of deep drifted snow around camp, so even just walking around is an exercise in trail breaking. The winds have let up this afternoon and it is still snowing lightly. Moderate snowfall is expected tonight and tomorrow, and with any luck it will let up by midweek.

We’re all safe and comfortable, waiting for the weather to improve. When (if) it does, we’ll have our work cut out for us; as a result of the new snow and wind loading, we’ll be faced with trail breaking and evaluating the avalanche hazard of the steeper slopes above us. In the mean time, we’re passing the time by reading books, chewing the fat, and the continual work of maintaining our camp’s condition throughout the storm.

We’ll keep you up to date with any changes in our current holding pattern.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

On The Map

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2

Chris and team…thinking of you with the winds and snow…what a challenge your having.  Hope the weather eases soon so you can get to high camp.  Stay safe…so proud of… read more

Posted by: Dave and Melissa on 5/25/2015 at 7:31 am

Hang in there guys!!  I’ll be on the mountain next week, be super to see you guys on your way down from tagging the summit!

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Posted by: Pete on 5/25/2015 at 4:32 am


Alaska Seminar: Leon Davis & Team Send Final Dispatch

Posted by: Leon Davis, Lindsay Fixmer, Bridget Belliveau | May 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Hello friends and family,

Apologies for the absent dispatches these last few days; Apparently clouds and Sat phones do not get along.  We had a few eventful days on the Kahiltna so here is a quick wrap up. Our attempt on Kahiltna Dome was thwarted by Avalanche conditions so we made a full retreat from camp II back to Base Camp under a blanket of clouds.  The team set up a quick camp by the airstrip and started celebrating the trip with a few beers we stashed in a hole and some margarita’s from a friendly neighbor.  With some time to kill, a few folks wanted to know what the inside of a crevasse looked like so we set some anchors and lowered a few into the deep blue black holes that reach down under our feet.  Doug perched himself at the lip for a photo session of folks climbing out of the abyss.  Everyone flew off yesterday just before the weather shut base camp down and we enjoyed a fine dinner in Talkeetna and some drinks at the Fairview.  A great trip with some of the finest people I’ve shared a rope with.  Thank you all for tuning in and look forward to the pictures and stories headed your way!

RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team

Crevasse Rescue on the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar. RMI Chris Villar

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2/14 - 2/22/2015
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Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
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Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
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Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
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Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
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Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
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Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
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5/15 - 5/18/2015
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Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
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  • An RM Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with new snow.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley fortifies snow walls and clears tents after new snow.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Crevasse Rescue on the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar. RMI Chris Villar
  • A snowy camp at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RM Team climbing towards 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The Mt. Rainier summit crater. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Tent at 14,000' Camp on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • Annapurna Base Camp. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Alex Barber looking towards the higher slopes of Annapurna. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Alex Barber trekking through devastated villages after the Nepal Earthquake. Photo: Alex Barber
  • An RMI team ascending Ski Hill towards 9,800 Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: RMI Collection
  • 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK surrounded by fortified walls. Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI climbers ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier in poor visibility. Photo: Ed Viesturs
  • An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, Mt. Foraker in the background.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team taking a weather day at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team pulling sled from from Base Camp en route to Camp 1 on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Chris Villar
  • An RMI team fortifies snow walls for protection from the wind at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team ascending the fixed lines outside of 14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The May 19th McKinley team preparing for the climb in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • The May 19th McKinley team ready to fly in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Adam Knoff
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner