Mt. Rainier: May 30th Summit!

Posted by: JJ Justman, Sean Collon, Lance Colley, Katrina Bloemsma | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb team led by JJ Justman topped out on Columbia Crest at about 7:30 this morning. JJ reported great weather and light winds of about 15 – 20 mph.  After spending some time on the summit, the team began their descent about 8:20 a.m.

Congratulations summit team!

An RMI team on their Mount Rainier summit bid. Photo: JJ Justman

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Check Out the Edge of the World

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt, Andy Hildebrand | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, May 29th 11:00 pm PDT

Expedition life lends itself to improvisation and today gave us the perfect opportunity to think on our feet. Our original plan was to carry a load of group gear to the top of the fixed lines at 16,500’ and rest a full day tomorrow. However, a strong high pressure system moved over the mountain, opening the gates to the upper mountain for all of the other teams that have been stuck at 14,000’ for days. As a result, camp was extremely active today as well over a hundred climbers woke up early and began a move to high camp. The fixed lines were jammed up all day with climbers, and rather than wait in that line ourselves, our team formulated a new plan.

Today became our rest day. We relaxed in the beautiful weather at camp and took an afternoon stroll to the Edge of the World. Guides Adam and Andy, studs that they are, completed the high cache on their own in the evening once the fixed lines cleared up from the folks that were moving up. Our goal tomorrow is to pack up camp early, and move ahead to high camp, putting ourselves in the perfect position to attempt a summit bid in the next few days while the good weather lasts.

The team is in high spirits and feeling strong! Goodnight!

RMI Guide Nick Hunt and the rest of the team

Expansive views from the Edge of the World, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT

All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We’ll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we’re ready to go.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

An RMI climbing team at the top of the fixed lines. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Begin Their Summit Push

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, May 29th 7:00 pm PDT

We woke early to perfect weather, packed up camp and headed to 17K. We have a good forecast and hope to summit tomorrow. We’ll be in touch as our summit bid progresses.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Climbers on the ridge to 17,200' Denali Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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1

You have been so disciplined and patient.  Delighted it has paid off. Go for it and good luck.

Art Muir

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Posted by: Art Muir on 5/30/2015 at 8:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Prepares in Talkeetna

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

Friday, May 29th 12:52pm PDT

Today the UWR (Upper West Rib) McKinley team is scurrying around getting all of our gear dialed for the glacier. Planes are landing and taking off every few minutes, which keeps us motivated to stay on our tasks. Line by line we are crossing off our check lists, and the piles of food and gear are growing to epic proportions.

The weather is stable right now, and it looks promising that we will fly on tomorrow.

Thanks for following along. We’ll update everyone from the glacier!

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens and team

The view of the Alaska Range from Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank RMI Guide Geoff Schellens with the May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank The RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team sorting their gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank The food is ready to load into duffels for the RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team. Photo: Eric Frank

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4

Hi Aunt Kim!!! Have an amazing trip- be safe and have lotsi of fun!!! Bring me back some snow- love you!!!! Sophia (and mommy/daddy)

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Posted by: Sophia Rose & co on 5/30/2015 at 5:44 am

Hi Kim,  Great photos! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad

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Posted by: shel on 5/30/2015 at 4:14 am


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Sign Up For Dispatch Alerts
  • An RMI team on their Mount Rainier summit bid. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Expansive views from the Edge of the World, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI climbing team at the top of the fixed lines. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the ridge to 17,200' Denali Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view of the Alaska Range from Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank
  • RMI Guide Geoff Schellens with the May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank
  • The RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team sorting their gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Eric Frank
  • The food is ready to load into duffels for the RMI May 28th McKinley Upper West Rib Team. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RMI Dining tent on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection
  • A view from the flight into Mt. McKinley's Basecamp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Mt. McKinley, 20,320'. Highest Point in North America. Photo: Bradford Washburn
  • Looking through camp walls at Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI May 26th McKinley team sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • RMI Guide Tyler Jones sorting gear in Talkeetna, AK. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The RMI May 26th McKinley team ready to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Looking up at the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley, AK from 14 Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up toward Windy Corner en route to 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Colleciton
  • Seminar Climbers en route to Camp Muir on May 25.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir team on the summit of Mt. Rainier May 28th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Enjoying the sunrise from Camp Muir during the Seminar.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Looking out over the Edge of the World from 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The view from the Edge of the World.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, with Kahiltna Dome in the cloudy distance.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers below Windy Corner on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team approaching 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RM Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley with new snow.  Photo: RMI Collection