Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Climbing and Training

Posted by: Leon Davis, Garrett Stevens, Bridget Belliveau | May 06, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

May 5, 2015 11:27 pm PT

Hi everyone.
Another beautiful sunny day on the glacier!  Perfect to go out for a bit of climbing and training. We left this morning in the cold shadow of Mt. Hunter and made our way up into a small basin on the north side of Horiskey’s Hump. Stopping periodically to study the glacier and identify some key features that make this frozen river so interesting. The team made great time and we were able to stand on top while getting some good practice on fixed line travel. By late afternoon the team was back at camp building a few more walls and celebrating Cinco de Mayo courtesy of John and his guacamole.  Good night.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

Teams camped at Kahiltna Base (7,300 ft), Mt. Hunter (14,573 ft) in the back ground behind the clouds.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts


Alaska Seminar: Davis and Team Fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier

Posted by: Leon Davis, Garrett Stevens, Bridget Belliveau | May 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

May 4, 2015, 9:46 pm PT
Good evening friends & family!  The first RMI Alaska Seminar of 2015 is on the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Our team spent today buffing out camp, which overlooks the airstrip, with snow block walls and a bathroom. We taught a clinic on climbing fundamentals, watched Mt. Hunter shed some large ice blocks and enjoyed a nice dinner of burritos in the cook tent. Tomorrow we will venture to the north side of Horiskey’s Hump for some more training and climbing.  Good night from a cold sunny glacier far far away.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

An RMI Team camped on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts

3

What a spot.  Looks beautiful, some day I may be able to get the funds to do this trip as well.  Keep saving and keep training.  Have fun and be… read more

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 5/6/2015 at 6:45 am

So excited to follow you all on this adventure….a dream for our son who is there with you.  Be safe and enjoy every moment!

read more

Posted by: Melissa on 5/6/2015 at 5:08 am


Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Training in Talkeetna

Posted by: Leon Davis, Garrett Stevens, Bridget Belliveau | May 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! The RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar is underway here, and so far it’s nothing but blue skies, sunshine, smiles and excitement. The team all arrived yesterday in Anchorage, and despite one delayed flight we were all able to rendezvous with our shuttle and make tracks north.  A short shopping stop in Wasilla let us get all the final little treats that we’ll want to eat on the glacier for the next week or so, and then we finished the drive to this quaint little town at the end of the road.

After a good night’s rest, the team met this morning for breakfast at the fabled Roadhouse, followed by a stop at the ranger station to complete all our paperwork. We headed over to the hangar to finalize our packing and preparation, and then it was off to the races with training. Tent craft and now rope work, with the team learning a lot of new skills that we’ll use over the course of our program.

We’re scheduled to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier this afternoon, so once we get the final weights of all our gear, we’ll suit up and head into a very different world! We’ll trade the trees and grass for snow and ice, but that’s what we’ve all come to do.

Keep it tuned in for more updates, and thanks for reading!

RMI Guides Leon Davis, Garrett Stevens, Bridget Belliveau, and the expedition team

The Alaska Seminar team learn some knot-tying skills in Talkeetna. Photo: Garrett Stevens

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2015 Email Alerts


Mt. Everest: Kathmandu & Beyond

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Mark Tucker | May 03, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 4,383'

Rain, thunder and lightning continued late into the Lukla night, but we all felt pretty confident that the dawn would bring perfect flying weather… Which it did.  We were up at 5 AM and over to the craziness of Lukla International Airport by 6 AM.  At around 7 or so, a twin engine prop plane came in with the right letters and numbers on its tail and we pushed our way through the crowd to catch our flight.  That flight was blissfully uneventful and by 7:30 we were just another batch of tourists in Kathmandu... Rubbernecking from our van to catch whatever signs of quake damage we could see on the way to our comfortable hotel.  A casual observer could easily go unaware of the tragedy unfolding in the country around us… things are quickly returning to “normal” for those with means in the capital.  The hotel was jam-packed with correspondents, camera crews, diplomats and a few grubby climbers.  We met a number of our guide friends -some of whom had ambitious and worthy plans to go out to remote villages to do what they could to save lives, and some of whom, just like ourselves, intended to get out of the country as soon as possible so as not to require care and feeding from an already over-stressed society.  Our team passed the afternoon resting, cleaning up, exploring and reconnecting.  I was lucky enough to connect with the legendary Miss Elizabeth Hawley for the team’s all important post-climb interview.  As expected, there wasn’t much to relate in terms of climbing goals achieved… none-the-less, we chatted for a delightful -and perhaps a bit melancholy- hour over the continuing challenges of these contemporary Everest seasons.
Back at the hotel, our team assembled for one final evening together, with a couple of toasts and a fine rooftop dinner.  We were not even remotely cold or uncomfortable, we weren’t in danger and we had a rising and beautiful full moon to entertain us.
Tomorrow we’ll scatter to ride a number of bigger and faster aircraft toward our own homes.  Thank you for following along in this challenging season.  We each feel extremely fortunate to have come unscathed through extraordinary circumstances.  To this point, we’ve had the convenience and satisfaction of placing cash directly into the hands of those who’ve suffered… from this point onward, we’ll try to match the generosity of those at home… Making considered contributions to responsible aid organizations benefiting all Nepalis.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Everest team back in Kathmandu. Photo courtesy of Chhering Dorjee Sherpa

Sign Up For Everest 2015 Email Alerts

12

Dear Dave, your post have been a blessing to me. I have been praying for all of you, and for the sherpa and their family, also for the people of… read more

Posted by: Pastor Sylvia Joplin on 5/4/2015 at 3:12 pm

Hi,Dave:
Glad you and your team are safe and finally on your way home. Your blog has been extremely informative and I’ve looked forward to reading them and of… read more

Posted by: greg faulkner on 5/4/2015 at 10:27 am


RMI Guide Alex Barber Assisting Remote Areas in Nepal

Posted by: Alex Barber | May 03, 2015
Categories: *Guide News

Trekked out to Tatopani yesterday (5/1) without too much difficulty. The UN affiliated NGO has supplied us with jeeps and equipment and we’ve started the effort to access remote areas of Nepal in need of assistance. Don’t know how often I’ll be able to provide updates, but I will when possible.

RMI Guide Alex Barber

Sign Up For Guide News 2015 Email Alerts


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Aconcagua Expedition
1/18 - 2/10/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/3 - 2/16/2015
Cayambe - 16,500' / Antisana - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/26 - 2/18/2015
Aconcagua - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/14 - 2/22/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/8 - 3/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,200'
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/7 - 3/15/2015
Ixtaccihuatl - 15,300' / Pico de Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/22 - 3/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - 10,080'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Sign Up For Dispatch Alerts
  • Teams camped at Kahiltna Base (7,300 ft), Mt. Hunter (14,573 ft) in the back ground behind the clouds.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Alaska Seminar team learn some knot-tying skills in Talkeetna. Photo: Garrett Stevens
  • The Everest team back in Kathmandu. Photo courtesy of Chhering Dorjee Sherpa
  • Everest team greeted by Nepalese child as they trek back to Namche. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Group of children begin their day in Namche Bazaar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Hahn & team trekking out. Ama Dablam looming in the background. Photo: JJ Justman
  • RMI Guide Alex Barber leaving Annapurna to help those in need after Nepal earthquake. Photo: Alex Barber
  • A climber crossing a glacier to Cleaver on the way to Camp 2 on Annapurna.  Photo: Alex Barber
  • Climbers moving through the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: RMI Collection
  • New snow on Mt. Everest, Nepal. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Tents aglow at Everest Base Camp on the eve before Camp 1 rotation. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Dave Hahn leads the Everest team on an acclimatization hike to Kala Patar. | JJ Justman
  • Ascending thru the ladders of the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa teams and guide attempt to navigate through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa and guides going through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Horseshoes at RMI Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • 2015 Sherpa World Championship Horseshoes. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Significant avalanche shown in center bottom of Annapurna photo. Photo: Alex Barber
  • Annapurna route past Camp 2. Photo: Alex Barber
  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Winter Seminar team enjoys the sunrise on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Sunrise on Mt. Rainier with Little Tahoma. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Winter Seminar Team taking a rest break on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The view of Mt. Rainier after the storm earlier this week. Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Panorama of Base Camp with Annapurna being the left most peak.  Photo: Alex Barber
  • Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn