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Denali - West Buttress Expedition

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  • Show Trip Info

    Price
    $12550
    Deposit
    $2500
    Duration
    21 days
    Difficulty
    Level 4
    Type
    Mountaineering
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RMI Logo
Denali  - West Buttress Expedition

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

dollar sign Price / Deposit

$12,550 / $ 2,500

Meter Difficulty

Level 4

Clock Duration

21 days

Climber on cliff Type

Mountaineering

The classic climbing route on Denali has everything the Alaska range is known for—heavily glaciated terrain, high altitudes, and beautiful views. Join us for our historic 50th season in the spring of 2025!

Jump To…

Surrounded by the massive glaciers and peaks of the Alaska Range and overlooking Alaska's interior stands 20,310' Denali, the highest mountain in North America. Our unparalleled experience, spanning over 50 years and more than 300 successful expeditions, ensures you receive the best guidance and support from our elite team of expert guides. With meticulous planning, a flexible itinerary, and comprehensive logistical support, there's a reason RMI has a 74.9% success rate on Denali.

McKinley
McKinley
McKinley
McKinley
McKinley
McKinley
Mt McKinley: 20,320'
Downtown Talkeetna
A ski plane taking off from Talkeetna bound for the Alaska Range
Flying into the Alaska Range
McKinley Base Camp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier
An RMI Team crossing the lower Kahiltna Glacier
An RMI Team nearing Camp 1 on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier
Camp 1 on the Kahiltna Glacier
An RMI Team approaching Camp 2 at 9,500'
RMI Climbers taking in the view 11 Camp (Camp 3)
An RMI Team cresting over Motorcycle Hill above 11 Camp
RMI Guide Leon Davis standing in front of the Father and Son's Wall on Denali's Northwest Face
An RMI Team crossing the Polo Fields below Windy Corner
An RMI Team rounding Windy Corner
An RMI Team rounding Windy Corner seen from high on the West Buttress
14 Camp (Camp 4) sitting in the middle of Genet Basin
An RMI Expedition relaxing in the cook tent at camp
Looking out over the Edge Of The World near 14 Camp
Climbing the fixed lines to reach the West Buttress
An RMI Climber at the base of Washburn's Thumb on McKinley's West Buttress
An RMI Team on McKinley's West Buttress
17 Camp (High Camp/Camp 5) on Denali's West Buttress Route
RMI Climbers checking out the view from 17 Camp
Climbing toward Denali Pass
An RMI Team crosses the Autobahn before reaching Denali Pass
An RMI Team nearing the Summit Ridge
Climbers on Denali's Summit Ridge
An RMI Team on the final strech of Denali's Summit Ridge
An RMI Team steps onto the summit of Mt. McKinley
An RMI Team on the summit of Mt. McKinley (20,320')
RMI Climbers descending toward Denali Pass after reaching the summit of Denali
An RMI Team descending the lower Kahiltna Glacier
An RMI Team back at Base Camp after a successful expedition

EXPEDITION HIGHLIGHTS

The West Buttress route on Denali was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. Bradford Washburn. The climb is a steady and gradual ascent over a period of days, and we emphasize proper acclimatization for our team members. With no rock or vertical ice climbing, the route is not considered a highly technical climb. However, Denali's physical environment presents much of the climbing challenge: miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extreme temperatures and weather, climbing, and living at altitude. In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000' (35° to 45°+). Some slopes have fixed ropes in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender. An ascent of the West Buttress of Denali with RMI is a major expedition and an unforgettable climbing experience!

Experience RMI's Legacy on Denali: Benefit from nearly 50 years of guiding excellence as you climb with North America's oldest and most trusted guide service. Our rich history and unparalleled expertise on Denali give you a distinct advantage.

Summit on Your Schedule: With no pre-determined ending date, our flexible itinerary ensures you have the best possible chance for a successful summit bid. We adapt to the mountain's conditions and your team's readiness, prioritizing safety and success.

Climb with Confidence: Ascend between the stunning granite rock of the West Buttress and navigate the final corniced ridge to Denali’s summit under the guidance of our highly trained and experienced guides. Their deep knowledge and skills in high-altitude mountaineering ensure a secure and rewarding climb.

Great Success Rates: Our flexible approach and dedication to safety contribute to a success rate significantly higher than the average. Join us and increase your odds of reaching the summit with a team consistently delivering results.

Join the Best in the Industry: Sign up for an RMI adventure and discover why we set the standard in guiding excellence. Our commitment to safety, success, and creating unforgettable experiences makes us the leader in mountaineering expeditions.

Looking for a Custom Experience?

RMI is pleased to offer a Custom West Buttress Expedition with Dave Hahn. Don't miss out on the opportunity to climb with this living legend during our historic 50th season. Click here for details.

THE RMI DIFFERENCE

When your goal is the highest peak in North America, experience matters. Established in 1969, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) is one of America’s oldest and most trusted guide services. As the largest guide service on both Mt. Rainier and Denali, we are leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. We have been guiding in Alaska since 1975 and have led over 300 expeditions on Denali. Our deep-rooted history and extensive experience on this formidable peak set us apart as industry leaders.

RMI is the most professional expedition firm on Denali. Period. RMI cared deeply about making sure that we climbed safely, with the deepest understanding of the terrain and the challenges that Denali provides. - Allan O.

Denali's remote and inhospitable landscape demands meticulous attention to detail. Our years of leading mountain adventures equip us with the knowledge to create the best possible trips. From expedition planning and travel arrangements to mountain flights with K2 Aviation, we handle the logistics so you can focus on preparing for the climb. RMI does not adhere to a pre-determined ending date for our expeditions, providing the flexibility to account for weather, route conditions, acclimatization, and the strength of the climbing team. This adaptive approach allows us to move higher when favorable conditions and climbers are ready, maximizing our chances of reaching the summit.

Our Denali expeditions are led by RMI’s foremost guides, who bring years of climbing experience from mountains worldwide, including the Andes, the Antarctic, and the Himalayas. With over 35 years of accumulated knowledge guiding Denali, our guides are second to none. Our guides closely monitor climbers’ performance and acclimatization throughout the ascent, making day-to-day adjustments to enhance your summit success. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly trained RMI Guide held to our rigorous standards cannot be understated.

Key Highlights:

  • Established Expertise: RMI has been a trusted guide service since 1969, leading over 300 Denali expeditions.
  • Comprehensive Planning: We manage all logistics, including travel and mountain flights, with K2 Aviation.
  • Flexible Itinerary: No pre-determined ending date allows for optimal adaptation to conditions and climber readiness.

With RMI, you are not just climbing Denali; you are joining a legacy of excellence and becoming part of a community that values safety, success, and unforgettable experiences.

CONTACT US

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure, please contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions about our programs. We are available Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or [email protected].


Climber Reviews

Filter By
07/08/2024
Our team and the friendships developed during our time on the mountain. The guides. The views. Of course, the summit.
Christopher B.

06/30/2024
Great logistics including the food provided on the trip. Also appreciate the tone set by the guides that helped foster a respectful and enjoyable atmosphere within our team.
Mattias G.

07/17/2023
Spending 22 days with our kid doing something really interesting.
Frederick S.

07/15/2023
The people and food was great. I loved that Andy was so straight forward with us about moving and timelines.
Mikayla D.

07/03/2023
The advice and encouragement given by all three guides was greatly appreciated. The views were awesome.
Jeffrey E.

06/08/2023
Outstanding decision making skills by our guides. Clear communication of plans and expectations.
Geza K.

07/14/2022
The trip allowed me to push myself in the big mountains with the confidence that I had a team of professionals watching out and planning all of the logistics.
Steve M.

07/08/2022
The team environment on this expedition was really special, and I attribute much of that to the outstanding leadership from the guides from the moment we arrived in Talkeetna. This was truly a life changing adventure for me, and a dream come true. I could not have asked for a better experience and RMI delivered.
Holly H.

07/01/2022
Summiting on a beautiful day was beyond any level of expectation. We are very lucky to have been able to do that, and on the shortest possible schedule RMI allows even!
Charles C.

07/01/2022
Awesome trip on the West Buttress of Denali. Such an incredible experience, and was very glad to have experienced guides with us to help navigate the inherent dangers of the climb.
Nathan L.

06/10/2022
The experience demonstrated in tackling such a huge endeavor. Pete is just amazing. He was extremely patient in answering ALL of my questions, and I had a lot. Organization from pre-start (talking with Joe over the phone), during and after was impecable. Nothing went wrong outside of typical weather days and issues strictly related to mountaineering.
Albert L.

06/08/2022
The views of the Denali and the surrounding mountain range during the climb as well as the flights to and from base camp.
Carl L.

06/07/2022
The views, obviously. But I think I was most impressed with how cooperative the different RMI teams were with each other on the mountain. Each RMI team seemed to want to see success for every other team, even if that meant more hardship for themselves, and that was nice to see. All the climbers and guides were also just awesome people to be around.
Nick R.

07/12/2021
Getting to know my team and having fun while climbing.
Aaron W.

06/30/2021
Our guides, the other climbers, and making it to the summit.
Matthew H.

06/22/2021
Outstanding few weeks. Great guides, great people, great leader. I always felt safe, I always felt like the guides were going to maximize the chances of the team summiting, and the guides just had this ability to make things seem enjoyable and fun despite being chronically cold and tired in a harsh environment. Would go anywhere with Mike King. Just a great guy.
Kirk L.

06/16/2021
Alaska!!! Can't describe it you just got to go!
John J.

06/14/2021
I enjoyed the experience of expedition life, and the feeling of being on Denali.
Michael D.

06/10/2021
Climbing Denali with RMI was the trip of a lifetime. The guides and group were so fun to be around and every decision made by the guide team was top notch. The views were beyond incredible and the pictures didn't even come close to doing them justice. 10/10 adventure.
Elizabeth O.

08/01/2019
Sign me up for more expeditions!
Petrus (Pieter) S.

06/28/2019
I most enjoyed the whole team and the views. Getting to the summit this time was also awesome!
Matt M.

06/28/2019
We had a very strong group. The work you guys did in screening people for this trip was paramount for a safe expedition Guides did an awesome job not only keeping us safe but also teaching skills
Roberto T.

06/26/2019
The whole experience was great.
Rahim C.

06/23/2019
RMI is the most professional expedition firm on Denali. Period. RMI cared deeply about making sure that we climbed safely, with the deepest understanding of the terrain and the challenges that Denali provides.
Allan O.

06/23/2019
Through and through a brilliant experience, I couldn't be happier with the choice to invest in myself to make this trip possible. RMI is very good at what you do, and meets/exceeds most of my expectations as a climber-client.
Ashley T.

06/23/2019
Great camaraderie not only among the guides but among the group participants.
Kelby B.

06/07/2019
It took me two trips to Alaska to reach the top of Denali -- Denali being Denali -- but it was totally worth it! Succeeding as a Team of climbers, with GREAT guides -- was genuinely one of the most treasured accomplishments of my life. You learn so much about yourself and the importance of working with others that it can't help but provide the mortar to fill in the gaps between the bricks of an otherwise well lived life, at any age. My 7th climb with RMI, I've learned something incredible on every one! Steve, Ben and James were AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!
Steve D.

06/24/2018
This was a once in a lifetime expedition and I was lucky enough to summit Denali. I couldn't have done this without the supremely professional and experienced guides that work for RMI. I learned a lot on this trip. It was by far the hardest mountain I have climbed so far. If anyone is seriously considering a Denali climb, I won't hesitate to recommend RMI.
John H.

06/15/2018
Many thanks again for providing an outstanding experience on Denali. We couldn't be happier with the trip, the guides, and everything that was in RMI's power to control. Good weather and a summit were just a bonus!
Henry H.

10/10/2017
The expedition life - building and maintaining camp and helping with chores. I decided on Day 1 that I was going to embrace every aspect of the expedition so that if we didn't summit, I would still feel like I'd maximized the training, the time and the cost. The climbing on the buttress between 14 and 17 was difficult but very enjoyable although the weather limited the spectacular views.
Lindsay N.

07/23/2017
We had a great group, guides, and experience on the mountain. Mike, Pepper, and Gloria made the difference.
Lance O.

07/07/2017
Great team that was willing to put in the work needed to get the job done. Always makes it easier.
Jake J.

06/24/2017
The guides were amazing, the food preparation was awesome (all things considered) and the overall experience/skill applied seemed to exceed all of the independent teams around us as well as the other guided teams. I just felt like we were with the best operator.
Jordan F.

06/20/2017
The adventure. Challenge. Personalities.
Joel B.

10/26/2016
This was truly an adventure. It was incredibly difficult and challenging, but well-planned and communication was excellent.
Ryan J.

09/12/2016
Mike and Billy's High Alpine Quesadilla Posh Stand...best quesadillas around 14 camp. LOL! On a more serious note, I really just appreciated how powerful such an expansive and grand landscape Denali offered. And loved meeting people from all over the world. Truly a great experience...except for not summiting. Next year maybe!
Rob C.

08/01/2016
Guides were wonderful, scenery and magnitude of the mountain was breath taking. Very exciting environment to being climbing. I really enjoyed the short time we had climbing above 14K, that's the good stuff.
Dave G.

07/06/2016
The spirit, professionalism of all guides, the complementarity of the 3 guides, the hard work, the achievement!
Lionel F.

06/20/2016
Overall, a great experience and I will return to Denail
Rogan D.

06/18/2016
The pride and confidence I enjoyed on the mountain as part of the best group, with the best guides there.
Bob A.

06/15/2016
It was what you described. Safe, fun, team building - all while being a great challenge mentally and physically!
Lisa R.

05/31/2016
The entire trip ran smoothly - like a well oiled machine. The crew were very competent and gave my a sense of comfort. It truly felt as if they had our interests at heart.
Adelle V.

05/30/2016
The comeraderie was excellent, the pace and acclimitization was perfect, the scenery was second to none.
David H.

07/20/2015
The group, including the guides, bonded immediately. We worked as a team and this made the experience very enjoyable. I believe the guides were a big part in bringing the team together early on.
Jim L.

07/10/2015
The guides were truly amazing!
Meredith B.

07/06/2015
I cant say enough good things about Mike Haugen. He is a professional in every way.
Aaron T.

06/28/2015
Having guides help me breakthrough my physical and mental barriers to achieve the summit.
Devin S.

06/28/2015
Guides, food was considerably good, itinerary.
Kevin L.

06/27/2015
Incredible fun, safe, great sense of camaraderie and teamwork, leave no trace principles and good mountain values, etc.
Eric H.

06/25/2015
The West Buttress and the views. Two of the guides were complete animals when they were working!
Lee S.

06/24/2015
Denali is the most beautiful place I have ever been. The climb is certainly a lot of work, but it is an amazing place and RMI does a wonderful job of guiding on this amazing mountain. I would recommend to anyone considering climbing Denali that they go with RMI.
Brian P.

06/22/2015
The guides were excellent. They were mature, very knowledgeable and above all safe.
Joe C.

06/15/2015
Working and suffering with a great group of guys that marched to the summit and back as a team.
Shannon L.

06/05/2015
I enjoyed the teaching aspect of this trip. As we climbed, we never stopped learning. The guides did an awesome job of preparing us for each phase of the climb.
Chris Q.

08/05/2014
I thoroughly enjoyed the diversity of the guides and believe that their age/experience range greatly improved my experience. I think pairing a senior guide with a junior guide is a great way to mature the experience level of the guides and develop deeper relationships. I also thoroughly enjoyed passing other RMI groups, meeting new guides/clients, and exchanging stories and experiences. I truly appreciated the support the guides provided to my father which allowed to him overcome all personal difficulty and reach the summit. Overall, I had a phenomenal experience and wouldn’t have changed much if anything during the expedition.
Michael F.

07/21/2014
Just being in the Alaska range and on Denali with an awesome team of guides and climbers
Paul K.

07/17/2014
Getting to know the guides and pushing myself were both great opportunities this trip provided. Climbing Denali pushed my limits and the guides helped me to do that in a safe way.
Jake W.

07/17/2014
I most enjoyed the experience of being in the Alaska Range, flying into and out of the glacier, the views from the various camps, and the general vibe of the place.
Will I.

07/16/2014
The entire process was great. I enjoyed the people I climbed with most.
David S.

07/03/2014
With the support of Jake, Leon and Katie I was able to work through the challenges associated with an expedition climb - specifically how to breath properly and the rest step. It was incredibly satisfying to go from feeling like I would not succeed to making it to the summit of McKinley. I would not have been able to do that without the awesome RMI guides.
George R.

07/03/2014
As always, I enjoyed unplugging from the world for a bit and spending time playing in the snow with some fairly diverse people who share the same interest.
Dwight R.

07/03/2014
The beauty and awesomeness of Mt Mckinley and I'm hoping I will be able to return someday.
David J.

06/20/2014
I enjoyed the mountain, being in a remote and trying environment, and interacting with the guides and all the various camps. The flight in and out was spectacular as well.
Marko P.

06/07/2014
Scenery
Bob S.

09/08/2013
This trip was a remarkable experience, in every respect. Hard work and thorough preparation by the team members made climbing Denali more enjoyable, but it was really the excellent support from RMI and the outstanding leadership of its guides that got us to the top.
Peter R.

08/29/2013
Experienced, professional guides and a strong team
Barbara S.

07/25/2013
As always, meeting people and the exciting travel.
Anthony F.

07/24/2013
Probably the people. The guides were awesome. The other clients were nice and interesting. I think we really worked well as a team.
Michael D.

07/19/2013
The guides were really terrific and our team gelled together really well. The mountain was challenging and exciting and it made for an amazing experience.
Gail W.

07/13/2013
Felt like I was in excellent hands and the guides were all amazing and on top of their game. I could tell that the group was their number 1 concern and were constantly checking on all of us which made me feel great.
William H.

07/08/2013
I enjoyed sitting around the posh house listening to stories of everyone especially the guides.
Sandra O.

07/07/2013
The whole adventure.
Daniel K.

07/05/2013
The views.
Galen M.

07/01/2013
The breathtaking setting and feeling so privileged to be able to experience a place that most people can only see on photos.
Monica G.

06/18/2013
comraderie, extreme effort followed by a successful campaign
Jeff H.

06/18/2013
Guides and how well organized everything was.Also the party in Talkeetna after we got back was pretty epic.
Virgil H.

06/14/2013
summit attempt and the fact that we all achieved this goal.
Pete B.

06/12/2013
A) summitting, B) getting back to base camp, C) the team, D) the weather.
Craig H.

06/12/2013
team spirit and guidance
Thomas V.

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THE RMI DIFFERENCE

When your goal is the highest peak in North America, experience matters. Established in 1969, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) is one of America’s oldest and most trusted guide services. As the largest guide service on both Mt. Rainier and Denali, we lead climbs and treks around the globe. The remote and inhospitable landscape of Denali's slopes necessitates meticulous attention to detail, and our years of leading mountain adventures equip us with the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips. We work hard to uphold our reputation as an industry leader.

This was a once in a lifetime expedition and I was lucky enough to summit Denali. I couldn't have done this without the supremely professional and experienced guides that work for RMI. I learned a lot on this trip. It was by far the hardest mountain I have climbed so far. If anyone is seriously considering a Denali climb, I won't hesitate to recommend RMI. - John H.

expert guides

Our Denali expeditions are led by RMI’s foremost guides, who bring years of climbing experience from Alaska and mountains worldwide, including the Andes, the Antarctic, and the Himalayas. With over 50 years of accumulated knowledge guiding Denali, our guides are second to none. Each trip is led by an AMGA-equivalent Lead Guide with extensive high alpine experience, supported by First and Second Assistant Guides who meet RMI's rigorous standards.

Key Qualifications of RMI Guides:

  • Certifications: RMI guides hold various certifications, including Alpine Skills (AMGA or equivalent), Leave No Trace Level II Instructor, Avalanche Pro 1, Wilderness First Responder (WFR), Emergency Medical Technician (EMT), and CPR.
  • Emergency Preparedness: Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits and rescue equipment and use advanced communication devices such as two-way radios, Garmin InReach, and satellite phones.
  • Environmental Commitment: RMI guides are trained in Alpine Leave No Trace principles to minimize environmental impact and educate climbers on sustainable practices.

Our guides closely monitor climbers’ performance and acclimatization throughout the ascent, making day-to-day adjustments to enhance your chances of reaching the summit. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly trained RMI Guide cannot be overstated.

logistical support

Our thorough preparation before departure assists you with all trip logistics, including expedition planning, travel arrangements, and mountain flights with K2 Aviation, allowing you to focus on preparing for the climb. RMI does not adhere to a pre-determined ending date for our expeditions, providing the flexibility to consider weather, route conditions, acclimatization, and the strength of the climbing team while on the mountain. This adaptability allows us to move higher when conditions are favorable, and climbers are ready, not merely to adhere to a fixed schedule.

Comprehensive Support Includes:

  • Expedition Planning: Our office team, led by experts like Joe Horiskey, helps plan every detail of your expedition, from choosing the right itinerary to gear recommendations.
  • Travel Assistance: We help book flights, accommodations, and transportation to and from Denali. We also help arrange visas and other travel documents if needed.
  • Training Programs: RMI has partnered with Uphill Athlete to provide specialized training programs to ensure you are in peak physical condition for the climb.
  • Permit Coordination: We help you acquire necessary Denali Climbing Permits and National Park Entrance Fees, ensuring all requirements are met.
  • Environmental Sustainability: Our expeditions are 100% carbon neutral through our partnership with Ostrom Climate, offsetting greenhouse gas emissions.

SAFETY

At RMI, safety has always been our top priority. We strive to create the safest mountain experience possible, ensuring that every aspect of your climb is meticulously planned and executed. Our experienced team of guides focuses on leading a fun and successful climb without ever compromising safety. We apply the same strict safety standards to our Denali climbs that we bring to expeditions in the Antarctic and the Himalayas.

Key Safety Measures:

  • Careful Planning: Every detail of your climb is planned with precision, from ascent profiles to contingency plans.
  • Flexible Itinerary: Our adaptable schedule allows us to respond to changing conditions and climber readiness, ensuring safety and success.
  • High-altitude Preparedness: We maintain additional resources at Base Camp and 14K Camp and carry comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication devices throughout the climb.

Our guides diligently monitor all aspects of the expedition, making day-to-day adjustments to enhance your safety and chances of reaching the summit.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure, please contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, and the route. If you have any other questions about our programs, please check out the FAQ Page, and if you can't find your answer there, we are available Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or [email protected].


NPS Authorized ConcessionerAuthorized Concessioner

RMI Expeditions is an authorized concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve.

Climate Change

OffsettersOur Denali National Park and Preserve climbs are 100% carbon neutral. We have partnered with Offsetters, Canada's leading carbon management solutions provider, to purchase offsets for our greenhouse gas emissions. Third parties verify and validate their projects to ensure that the emission reductions are real, additional, and permanent, so we know our contribution makes a real difference.

By supporting this project, we prevent the equivalent amount of greenhouse gas emissions generated by our operations from being emitted somewhere else. These offsets allow us to achieve our goal of sustainability and further promote responsible environmental practices.

 

Contents
National Park Service Authorize Concessioner
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Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send an email to [email protected].

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance is required for this trip. Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.

Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be challenging. When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:

  • Read the fine print. Travel Insurance will reimburse you when canceling for a covered reason for prepaid, non-refundable trip costs that you insure. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the "covered reasons."
  • Confirm that your activity is a covered “activity.” Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), activities that go above specific elevations or activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an "Adventure" or "Sports" package to cover your activity.
  • Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.
  • Contact your travel protection company directly for any questions you have regarding benefits or coverage.

We have partnered with Travelex Insurance and Ripcord Insurance because they offer certain policies specifically designed for adventure travel with coverages for remote areas and activities like mountaineering, climbing, skiing, and trekking, without any altitude restrictions. 

 

For your convenience, we offer Travelex Insurance Services, Inc.(CA Agency License #0D10209) travel protection plans to help protect you and your travel investment against the unexpected. 

For more information on the available plans visit Travelex Insurance Services or contact Travelex Insurance (800) 228-9792 and reference location number 47-0370. 

The product descriptions provided here are only brief summaries. The full coverage terms and details, including limitations and exclusions, are contained in the insurance policy. Travel Insurance is underwritten by Berkshire Hathaway Specialty Insurance Company; NAIC #22276.

 

 

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is travel insurance designed for adventurers, including the best evacuation and rescue services available.

Benefits are tailored for adventurers and include:

  • Rescue and evacuation from the point of illness or emergency to your home hospital of choice.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, Accidental Death & Dismemberment (AD&D), and more.
  • Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims.
  • 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses, and military veterans.
  • Security extraction in case of unexpected dangerous and chaotic events.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries, and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word. Whether it’s reimbursing you for a canceled trip, paying your travel medical bills, or evacuating you home in an emergency, Ripcord takes the worry out of your travel.

Getting to Talkeetna

FLIGHTS TO ALASKA

Climbers need to arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 p.m. on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m., Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1.

If your flight cannot arrive in Anchorage before 1:00 p.m., it will be necessary to arrive a day earlier and go to the airport to meet the team.

We recommend allowing 30 days to complete this expedition, door-to-door. Since we do not have a hard ending date for the climb, we recommend that you purchase a one-way flight to Anchorage, AK, for the beginning of your trip, then purchasing your return flight once the team returns to Talkeetna. Alternatively, you can purchase a ticket with a flexible return date and change your flight when you return to Talkeetna. This works better than an open-ended ticket or missing an early return date.

SHUTTLE TO TALKEETNA

We will arrange a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna at 2:00 p.m. the day your program begins. Please arrive in Anchorage no later than 1:00 p.m. Talkeetna is a three-hour drive from Anchorage. If you are traveling to Talkeetna on your own, please let RMI know in advance that you will not require transportation.

Anchorage Accommodations Near the Airport

If you are arriving in Anchorage the day before your program begins, below are some hotel options close to the Anchorage Airport:

Weather

Denali's weather forecast is updated through the National Weather Service

Tipping

Our guides put considerable effort into ensuring your safety and success on the mountain. If you had a positive experience, leaving a gratuity is a wonderful gesture to show your appreciation. The amount is up to you and should reflect how much you enjoyed the service. Typically, tips for excellent service range from 10% to 15% of the program cost. Guides can accept gratuities in cash, Venmo, or by check. If you prefer, you can also pay tips using a credit card through the RMI Office.

Resources

Mountaineering is replete with literary accounts of high adventure in Alaska. For aspiring Denali climbers, certain historical narratives, as well as how-to guide books, can prove both entertaining and educational, significantly adding to one's enjoyment of the expedition.

The list below represents some personal favorites from over three decades of guiding in Alaska. I particularly enjoy the story of the first winter ascent: Minus 148 degrees!

Whether you are challenging the West Buttress or learning crevasse rescue on the lower Kahiltna Glacier, these titles will greatly enhance your experience and appreciation of Alaska!

- Joe Horiskey

Bass, D., Wells, F., Ridgeway, R.  Seven Summits 1986

Beckey, Fred  Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 1993

Bezruhka, Stephen  Altitude Illness - Prevention & Treatment 2001

Cole, Terence  The Sourdough Expedition: Stories of the Pioneer Alaskans Who Climbed Mount McKinley in  l910 1985

Davidson, Art  Minus 148: The Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley 1986

Houston, Charles  Going Higher: The Story of Man and Altitude 1987

Mason, Gen  Minus Three 1970

Michener, James A.  Alaska 1988

Moore, Terris   Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs 1981

Roberts, David  The Mountain of My Fear 1968

Randall, Francis  Denali Diary: Letters from McKinley 1987

Seattle Mountaineers The Freedom of the Hills 2017

Selters, Andy  Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue 2009 (second printing)

Sherwonit, Bill  To The Top of Denali 2013 (third edition)

Sherwonit, Bill  Denali, A Literary Anthology 2000

Stuck, Hudson  The Ascent of Denali 1914

Washburn, B., Roberts, D.  Mount McKinley - The Conquest of Denali 1991

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Qualifications

Climbing Denali is a monumental challenge that requires exceptional physical conditioning, mental toughness, and extensive mountaineering experience. This adventure is not for the inexperienced, and we want to ensure that every participant is fully prepared to meet the mountain's demands.

Essential Qualifications: You must have successfully completed a multi-day mountaineering course covering glacial travel, crevasse rescue, and altitude experience. While this course does not have to be completed with RMI Expeditions, we vet all applicants to ensure they have the right experience and skillset, and doing one of our courses ensures you meet our prerequisites. Examples include:

Denali’s high altitude and extreme polar weather, spending three weeks on the mountain, traveling on complicated glaciated terrain, and carrying heavy backpacks make this a demanding climb. Reviewing the climbing resumes of RMI climbers who have successfully reached the summit of Denali reveals at least three of the following components:

Key Components of a Successful Climbing Resume:

  • Physical Conditioning: Fit individuals with focused training to prepare for carrying required pack weight.
  • Elevation Experience: Climbing to altitudes above 15,000 feet.
  • Multi-Day Programs: Participating in unsupported multi-day climbing or trekking/backcountry trips, carrying all gear, and moving to different camps.
  • Recent Experience: Climbing activities occurring within the last 3 to 5 years.

CLIMBING RESUME

Your climbing resume should include:

  • Glacier travel experience
  • Summit day that exceeds 10 - 12 hours
  • Experience at altitudes above 14,000'
  • Familiarity with the skills needed for a cold, remote and heavily glaciated peak
  • Crampon skills on 30 - 50 degree slopes
  • Team rope travel skills
  • Knots & slings - Prusik, butterfly, Münter, etc.
  • Snow and ice anchors (construction & equalization)
  • Belaying and running belay experience
  • Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuer perspectives, and considering heavy packs and sleds)
  • Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
  • Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
  • Snow camp construction

Qualifying Programs

Recommended climbing experiences prior to the Denali - West Buttress Expedition include:

Your ROle as a climber

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each participant plays a crucial role in the safety and success of the team. Therefore, we ask that each climber:

  • Meet Climbing Prerequisites: Ensure you possess the necessary climbing experience required for this program.
  • Maintain Fitness: Be in top physical and mental condition suitable for this demanding climb. As a climber on the West Buttress Denali expedition, you are expected to be physically fit and well-prepared for the demanding conditions of high-altitude mountaineering. This includes having prior experience in multi-day backpacking, winter camping, and mountaineering skills such as glacier travel and crevasse rescue. You should be able to carry heavy loads (up to 80 lbs) over steep and challenging terrain and be prepared for long days of sustained physical effort. Mental toughness and a positive attitude are also crucial for handling the physical and psychological demands of the climb and ensuring you are a team player.
  • Be Informed: Familiarize yourself with all pre-departure information.
  • Medical Clearance: Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that you are medically qualified to join this program.
  • Health Updates: Inform the RMI Office of any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Proper Gear: Arrive properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Team Consideration: Act considerately toward all team members and respect local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Environmental Respect: Follow Leave No Trace practices to minimize environmental impact.
  • Honest Communication: Accurately describe your fitness, health, skills, abilities, and equipment to your guide staff.
  • Health Communication: Inform your guide staff about any medication or health changes that may be needed.
  • Active Participation: Attend all training sessions, gear checks, and briefings. Follow the guidance and instructions of the RMI Guides, adhere to safety protocols, and work collaboratively with your team members. Personal responsibility for your equipment, maintaining good hygiene, and being prepared for sudden weather changes are essential.
  • Self-Assessment: Continuously assess your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the program's demands. Your commitment and readiness to adapt to the expedition’s demands will contribute significantly to the climb's overall success and safety.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating in the program, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the entire group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotels, and meals.

Fitness for Mountaineering

 

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains is extremely challenging.

  • Start immediately: Start a rigorous fitness and training program now to arrive in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
  • Be intentional: Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina, and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
  • Be sport-specific: The best fitness and training program mimics your climbing objective's physical and technical demands. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Denali - West Buttress Expedition, you are preparing for:

  • Steep climbing and glacier travel with a 50-65 lb load, including sled pulling
  • Strenuous physical activity for multiple hours a day for multiple consecutive days
  • A 12-14+ hour summit day
  • Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan to be in the best shape of your life and ready for a challenging adventure!

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.

 

Acclimatization

Proper acclimatization is key to climbing high. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile, allowing your body time to adjust to the altitude.

Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases one's ability to acclimatize as one ascends. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.

Finally, physical performance and acclimatization are also related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days, and weeks before summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are all critical factors in determining an individual’s success on an expedition like this.

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What You’ll Need

A list of required personal equipment accompanies every RMI program, and the thought process behind each item is much greater than simply “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.” The list for your program takes into account factors such as seasonality, route conditions, weather, elevation, and more. As such, this list is framed within the broadest of contexts and is dynamic by its very nature. Therefore, certain variables (additions and/or subtractions) are inherent within such an all-encompassing list. We make every effort to recommend only top of the line clothing and technical gear, and it is never our intention for you to buy or rent unnecessary gear.

The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.

RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item. Thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a good reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.

Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list carefully so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine-tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!


  • Whittaker Mountaineering Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.

Shop Your Equipment List // Rent new equipment for your climb

Equipment List

Pack & Travel

Image of DUFFEL BAG
DUFFEL BAG

100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This can be used as your checked bag on your flight to Alaska and to store excess gear in Talkeetna.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of SLED DUFFEL BAG
SLED DUFFEL BAG

A lightweight 100+ liter duffel to transport gear in your sled. This bag does not need to be waterproof. This can also be used as your second checked bag on your flight to Alaska.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of 85+ LITER BACKPACK
85+ LITER BACKPACK

Your pack must be large enough for your layers, climbing gear, and food, as well as a portion of your tent and your share of group equipment. The pack volume you choose depends on your experience and the quality of your gear; if you opt for a smaller pack, practice packing and make sure you can fit all of your gear with room to spare. You will not need a separate summit pack.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Image of SLEEPING BAG
SLEEPING BAG

We recommend a bag rated between -20° and -40° F. Allow ample room for movement. We highly recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a -40° F bag.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD
INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD

A full-length inflatable pad.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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CLOSED FOAM SLEEPING PAD

A full-length closed cell foam pad, used in combination with the inflatable sleeping pad.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Technical Gear

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ICE AXE

The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of CLIMBING HARNESS
CLIMBING HARNESS

We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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1 TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER

Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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2 LOCKING CARABINER(S)

Used for clipping into anchors, etc.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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6 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)

Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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CRAMPONS

Automatic or semi-automatic 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates designed for general mountaineering use.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER WITH FRESH BATTERIES

Bring extra batteries appropriate to the duration of the climb.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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TREKKING POLES

We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of MECHANICAL ASCENDER
MECHANICAL ASCENDER

For traveling on fixed lines. Most people prefer an ascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. For example, a right-handed person would use a left-handed ascender.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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3 DOUBLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING

120 cm sewn sling ("double-length runner").

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of SINGLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING
2 SINGLE LENGTH SEWN NYLON SLING

60 cm sewn sling ("single-length runner").

Guide Pickâ„¢

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20' ACCESSORY CORD

6mm accessory cord for sled tether, sled prussik, and ditch loop.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of BUNGEE CORDS
4 BUNGEE CORDS

Approximately 12-20” each.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of NYLON CORD
20' NYLON CORD

Paracord or thin (3-4mm) accessory cord for lashing your duffel onto your sled.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of SNOWSHOES
SNOWSHOES

Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe- 22" is an ideal size. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly easier.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Head

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HELMET

A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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WARM HAT

Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

Guide Pickâ„¢


Image of BUFF
BUFF

A Buff provides versatile head and neck protection. A neck gaiter is also acceptable.

Guide Pickâ„¢

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BALACLAVA
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of THERMAL FACEMASK (RECOMMENDED)
THERMAL FACEMASK (RECOMMENDED)
Guide Pickâ„¢

HEADLAMP NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS TRIP

Image of GLACIER GLASSES
2 PAIR GLACIER GLASSES

Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of GOGGLES
GOGGLES

Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Hands

Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.

Image of LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVES
LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVES

Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVES
MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVES

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated mountain gloves.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVES
HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVES

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of EXPEDITION WEIGHT GLOVES OR MITTENS
EXPEDITION WEIGHT GLOVES OR MITTENS

For summit day and other very cold days. Gloves provide greater dexterity. Mitts provide greater warmth.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Upper Body

We recommend six upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Three of these should be insulating layers, one light, one medium and one heavy that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.

Image of LIGHT WEIGHT BASELAYER OR SUN HOODY
2 LIGHT WEIGHT BASELAYER OR SUN HOODY

Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Light weight, light-colored, hooded baselayers (sun hoodys) are highly recommended for sun protection.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of LIGHT WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
LIGHT WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

A down, synthetic, or softshell hoody makes a great midlayer.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER

A hooded down or synthetic jacket.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL)
RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL)

An uninsulated, waterproof shell jacket with hood.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of INSULATED PARKA WITH HOOD
INSULATED PARKA WITH HOOD

Your expedition-style heavy parka should extend below the waist and must have an insulated hood and be able to fit over the rest of your upper body layers. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day when it is of crucial importance. We recommend down rather than synthetic fill.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of SPORTS BRA
SPORTS BRA

We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Lower Body

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

Image of PAIRS OF UNDERWEAR
1 - 3 PAIR PAIRS OF UNDERWEAR

Non-cotton briefs or boxers.

Guide Pickâ„¢


Image of SOFTSHELL CLIMBING PANTS
SOFTSHELL CLIMBING PANTS

Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of RAIN PANTS WITH FULL-LENGTH SIDE ZIPPERS (HARD SHELL)
RAIN PANTS WITH FULL-LENGTH SIDE ZIPPERS (HARD SHELL)

Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANTS
DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANTS

A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth and comfort at camps, both on the glacier and on the trail. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Feet

Image of EXPEDITION DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS
EXPEDITION DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS

Expedition-style double boots provide the best balance of weight, comfort, and insulation. Your boots need to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). The idea is to adequately fill the volume of the boot, and to insulate. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of OVERBOOTS
OVERBOOTS

Expedition overboots add significant warmth.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of BOOTIES
BOOTIES

Goose down or synthetic fill. Nice for evenings at camp.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of CASUAL SHOES
CASUAL SHOES

Great for traveling and wearing around town. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of GAITERS
GAITERS

A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of PAIRS OF SOCKS
4+ PAIRS OF SOCKS

Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

Guide Pickâ„¢

First Aid & Medications

MEDICATIONS

We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications you should have for high-altitude climbing. These medications are only used in emergency situations, and if someone is showing symptoms of HAPE or HACE, our standard protocol is for immediate descent. We do not take any of these medications prophylactically, and please talk with your guide before taking medications.

We require each climber to have the following medications:


ACETAZOLAMIDE (DIAMOX)

125mg tablets for the prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. A normal prescription is 125mg tablets, twice a day. Recommend 15 - 20 tablets.


DEXAMETHASONE

4mg tablets for the treatment of altitude illness. Recommend 12 tablets.


NIFEDIPINE

30mg slow-release tablets for the prevention or treatment of high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Recommend 8 - 10 tablets.


Image of SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT
SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT

Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, cough drops, basic painkillers, an antacid, an anti-diarrheal, and personal medications.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Personal Items

Image of MEALS & SNACKS
MEALS & SNACKS

See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.


Image of BOWL
BOWL

Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.


Image of INSULATED MUG
INSULATED MUG

Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommed a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L nalgene.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of SPOON OR SPORK
SPOON OR SPORK

A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of WATER BOTTLES
2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES

One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of THERMOS (OPTIONAL)
THERMOS (OPTIONAL)

High quality, durable vacuum bottle with a volume of 1/2 liter or 1 liter.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS
2 - 3 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS

These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of STUFF SACK(S)
STUFF SACK(S)

Bring as needed.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of LARGE GARBAGE BAGS
5 - 6 LARGE GARBAGE BAGS

Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for caching and for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.


Image of POCKETKNIFE
POCKETKNIFE
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of LIGHTER
LIGHTER
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG
PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG

Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.


Image of SUNSCREEN
SUNSCREEN

We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of TRAVEL SIZE HAND SANITIZER
TRAVEL SIZE HAND SANITIZER
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of LIP BALM
LIP BALM

We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

Guide Pickâ„¢

TRAVEL SIZE MOISTURIZER

Image of INSECT REPELLENT (OPTIONAL)
INSECT REPELLENT (OPTIONAL)

For Talkeetna.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of EAR PLUGS
EAR PLUGS

SPARE CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES (OPTIONAL)

Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.


SLEEPING MASK

Image of PAIRS CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS
4 - 6 PAIRS CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS
Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN)
PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN)

Practice using this before coming on the climb!

Guide Pickâ„¢

PEE BOTTLE (OPTIONAL)

One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of CAMERA (OPTIONAL)
CAMERA (OPTIONAL)

Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.


Image of POWER BANK (OPTIONAL)
POWER BANK (OPTIONAL)

A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Image of SOLAR PANEL (OPTIONAL)
SOLAR PANEL (OPTIONAL)

A small solar panel to charge personal electronics.


Image of ABC WATCH (OPTIONAL)
ABC WATCH (OPTIONAL)

Watch with an altimeter, barometer, and compass. Many smart watches will also have this functionalty.


Image of SATELLITE COMMUNICATOR (OPTIONAL)
SATELLITE COMMUNICATOR (OPTIONAL)

Communicate with family and friends back home, track your progress, and much more. Generally requires a subscription plan. Make sure this is a modern model that makes it difficult to inititate an accidental SOS call.

Guide Pickâ„¢

Travel Clothes

Image of TRAVEL CLOTHES
TRAVEL CLOTHES

We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, site seeing and dining.  


SUNGLASSES

Pre-Trip Checklist

Purchase travel insurance.


Purchase airplane tickets.


Reserve rental equipment.


Be in the best shape of your life!



Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, sleds, and avalanche probes.

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.

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MEALS

On the Denali - West Buttress expedition, you will need 22 mountain lunches. All of your mountain lunch items should weigh about 20 lbs.

Breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain are included in your program cost. You are responsible for all meals while we are off the mountain.

Vegetarian and gluten-free menu options are available.

MOUNTAIN LUNCHES

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Take care while shopping for your personal mountain lunch items. Don't wait until the last minute. Make a list in advance and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer a large variety of gourmet and specialty foods, as well as your old, stand-by favorites. Keep in mind that, for the most part, Denali stays cold enough to preserve perishable food for weeks.

Recommended mountain lunch items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflowers seeds, raisins, etc.), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and personal drink mixes for the trip (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, instant coffee, hot cider). RMI will provide hot cocoa mix and teas.

Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

Sample of personal lunch food for a Denali Expedition:

  25 bars: a mix of Cliff, Luna, and others

  2 lb of almond, dried cranberries & chocolate chips

  2 packages of bagels

  2 packages of whole wheat tortillas

  2 blocks of cheese - pepper jack & sharp cheddar

  1 Hickory Farms summer sausage

  1 pepperoni stick

  1 package Little Smokies

  2 packs of smoked salmon

  1 pack of turkey jerky

  2 cans each: clams, oysters

  1 container of peanut butter & jelly mix

  2 packages of crackers (Wheat Thins & Triscuits)

  2 cans of potato chips (Pringles)

  2+ lb GORP mix

  1 box of Ginger Snaps

  1 box of graham crackers

  1 container of hummus

  1 bag of carrots

  1 package of dried mangos

  1 small container of sweet mustard

  Gatorade mix, travel size Crystal Light packets, instant coffee

  25 mixed candies (lifesavers, jolly ranchers, gummy worms, sweet tarts, toffee, mints)

 

BREAKFAST

Breakfasts consist of fresh food (bagels, cream cheese), bacon and eggs, instant oatmeal, instant grits, cold cereal (granola), breakfast bars, and hot drinks.

DINNER

Twenty-two days of group food are carried on the mountain, which can be stretched out in the event of bad weather. Additionally, a cache of emergency food is left at Kahiltna Base Camp.

The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried entrees (Mountain House or Alpine Air), and packaged main course items (ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, macaroni and cheese). Various hot drinks (tea and cocoa) and dessert are also provided.

Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.

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Payments

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $2,500 per person secures your reservation.

  • Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank, or wire transfer**.
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

  • Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
  • Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions. Credit/debit cards are not accepted for payments of $10,000 or more.

Cancellation

The $2,500 per person deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

  • All cancellations require written notification. Once the RMI Office receives your written notification of cancellation, the following apply:
    • If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, the $2,500 per person deposit will not be refunded.
    • If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.

Due to the time-sensitive nature of these programs, and the amount of preparation time required for this program, we strictly adhere to our policy and cannot make exceptions for any reason.

Cancellation Insurance

We require that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Tab for details.

Change of date

Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 90 days prior to your departure date for a $500 fee per person. No date changes allowed less than 90 days before departure.

LANDCOST

INCLUDED

  • RMI Leadership
  • Ground transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna as stated in the itinerary
  • Hotel accommodations in Talkeetna for two nights at the start of the trip*
  • Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain
  • Group equipment (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, sleds, etc.)
  • Bush pilot service between Talkeetna and Kahiltna Base Camp as stated in the itinerary

NOT INCLUDED

  • Airfare to and from Anchorage International Airport (ANC)
  • Hotel accommodations in Talkeetna not included above
  • Ground transportation from Talkeetna to Anchorage
  • National Park Service Mountaineering Permit Fee
  • Denali National Park Entrance Fee
  • Travel insurance
  • Meals while not on the mountain
  • Mountain lunches during the climb
  • Customary guide gratuities
  • Bush pilot fees if returning from the mountain early

* Accommodations are based on double occupancy.

Risk Management

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them.  Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity. 

PARTICIPANT Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

  • Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
  • Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
  • Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
  • Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
  • Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Show respect for the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
  • Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
  • Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
  • Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotels, meals, etc.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age Requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media. 

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes. 

Here are the key points:

  1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
  2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
  3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
  4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them. 
  5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
  6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
  7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

Summit Attempt

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

General Policies

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue you a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments that have been paid on your behalf to secure any of the land costs, operational expenses, or services required for this program, including, but not limited to hotel accommodations, transportation and transfers, tours, group food, permits, local outfitter services, and insurance premiums prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for programs that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or to discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

The Participant is responsible for any costs incurred due to COVID-19, including but not limited to, any testing fees or costs associated with medical care and/or quarantine such as hotel accommodations, meals, separate transportation, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same-gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

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Denali faq

If you're looking for answers to your RMI Expeditions Denali questions, you're in the right place! We've compiled the most frequently asked questions to give you a deep dive into everything from company policies to travel and logistics to the on-mountain experience.

If you have more general questions about Denali, feel free to check out our Denali Resources section, and if you can't find your answer there, we are available Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or [email protected].

WHY RMI?

We implement a safety-first philosophy for our Denali expeditions. We focus on creating a “Margin of Safety,” which creates a cushion between our activities and the unexpected. While mountaineering is dangerous, having a Margin of Safety decreases the likelihood of accidents and emergencies. Creating a Margin of Safety includes careful planning, conservative acclimatization schedules, adaptable itineraries, and diligent attention to detail, especially at high altitudes. We monitor the weather closely on the mountain while receiving constant updates from our forecasters off the mountain. Our guides are equipped with comprehensive medical kits and rescue gear, and they use two-way radios, Garmin InReach communication devices, and satellite phones for emergency communication.

RMI has a general success rate of 61.5% since 2013. If you factor our unsuccessful summits due to factors outside of our control (weather, route conditions, emergencies, etc.) we have an incredible 74.9% success rate. According to statistics from Denali National Park, the average success rate on the West Buttress (including both guided climbs and independent climbers) is 55.6% since 2013. Unlike other guide services, RMI does not have a hard “fly-off date” that forces an early end to the expedition. This flexibility ensures climbers have sufficient time to wait for safe weather windows for both the ascent and descent, contributing to our high success rate.

RMI guides for the West Buttress Denali expedition hold various certifications to ensure your safety and provide expert guidance throughout the climb. These certifications include:

  • Alpine Skills - AMGA or Equivalent: RMI guides possess advanced alpine skills, including glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and technical climbing, which are included in the AMGA Alpine Guide track.
  • Alpine Leave No Trace (LNT): Guides are trained in Alpine Leave No Trace principles to minimize environmental impact and educate climbers on sustainable practices in alpine environments.
  • LNT Level II Instructor: Some guides are certified as Level II Instructors, enabling them to effectively teach and enforce LNT principles.
  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Guides are proficient in properly using and managing personal protective equipment, ensuring climbers' safety during technical climbs.
  • Avalanche Level II (AVY Level II): This certification equips guides with advanced knowledge of avalanche hazards, enabling them to assess snow conditions, make informed decisions, and conduct necessary rescues.
  • Wilderness First Responder (WFR), Emergency Medical Technician (EMT), or Wilderness EMT (WEMT): These medical certifications ensure guides can provide comprehensive first aid and emergency care in remote environments.
  • Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR): Guides are trained in CPR to handle cardiac emergencies promptly and effectively.
These certifications reflect the high level of training and expertise that RMI guides bring to the expedition, helping to mitigate risks and enhance your overall climbing experience.

RMI is one of North America's oldest and most trusted guide services, with 50 years of experience guiding on Denali. The head of our Denali office team, Joe Horiskey, led his first Denali expedition for RMI in 1975 and still plays a major role in logistics and planning each year.

Experience matters when you’re gunning for any peak, but especially when that peak is one of the Seven Summits, and the highest in North America. RMI Guides benefit from that deep well of experience, learning the ins and outs of Denali from pros like Joe, while staying at the cutting edge of alpine mountaineering techniques. Our office team benefits, too, with 50 years of logistics and planning experience to ensure every expedition runs smoothly.

When you climb with RMI, you climb with the more experienced guide service on Denali.

Once you register for your Denali climb, the RMI Office will be with you every step before, during, and after your climb. You’ll have access to 50 years of Denali expertise, informing you on everything from gear recommendations to suggested training regimens to travel planning assistance.

The head of our Denali office team, Joe Horiskey, guided the first-ever RMI Expeditions climb on the West Buttress in 1975 and has been an integral part of the experience ever since.

Here are some additional details about the logistical support you will receive from the RMI office:

  • Expedition Planning: The RMI office will help you plan your Denali expedition, including choosing the right itinerary, dates, and guides. If you have questions at any point, our office of professionals (including RMI Guides, who have stood on top of Denali multiple times) is at your fingertips.
  • Travel Plans: The RMI office can help you book your flights, accommodations, and transportation to and from Denali. They can also help you arrange visas and other travel documents.
  • Training: The RMI office can provide information about training for Denali and help you find the right program. As part of your pre-climb experience, RMI has partnered with Uphill Athlete to get you in “peak” mountaineering shape.
  • Permits: Denali National Park requires all climbers to obtain a permit before climbing Denali. The RMI office can help you acquire the necessary permits and ensure that you meet all of the park's requirements.

 

RMI ensures environmental sustainability on Denali through several key practices:

  • Leave No Trace Principles: RMI guides are trained in Leave No Trace (LNT) principles to minimize the impact on the natural environment. This includes careful waste management, reducing camp impacts, and educating climbers on sustainable practices. RMI has pioneered alpine Leave No Trace principles and, in 2002, was the first guided expedition to pack out all of our Trash on Denali.
  • Environmental Education: Each Denali expedition will include a guide who has a minimum LNT Level II certification. Guides also educate team members on the importance of preserving the natural environment, ensuring that each participant understands and follows best practices for environmental stewardship.
  • Carbon Neutral Expeditions: All expeditions in Denali National Park are 100% carbon neutral. RMI partners with Ostrom Climate to offset greenhouse gas emissions, ensuring our operations do not contribute to net carbon emissions.

 

RMI Expeditions has earned several notable awards and recognitions in the mountaineering community. In 2014, Outside Magazine named us "Best Outfitter" in their Travel Awards, highlighting our excellence in guided mountain expeditions and client service.

Our significant partnership with the Leave No Trace (LNT) Center for Outdoor Ethics also contributed to developing the first-ever LNT Alpine Mountaineering guidelines, officially adopted in 2011​. This commitment to environmental stewardship and ethical climbing practices further underscores our respected position within the mountaineering community.

Our history of guiding successful climbs has also contributed to our recognition. We have led more than 300 expeditions to Denali, establishing ourselves as the most experienced guide service on the mountain​. Our guides have often served as VIPs (Volunteers in Park) to assist Denali climbing rangers in rescues, and several have even been Denali climbing rangers themselves. Additionally, multiple guides have been awarded “Pro Pins” for helping out with rescues on Denali, and in 2001, an RMI team was awarded the Mislow-Swanson Denali Pro Award for a rescue.

Furthermore, our involvement in significant charity work, such as the Climb for Clean Air fundraiser supporting the American Lung Association, has raised millions of dollars over the years​​.

These accolades and initiatives reflect our dedication to safety, expertise, and environmental responsibility, cementing our reputation as a leading guide service in the mountaineering world.

RMI handles emergencies or evacuations on Denali with a comprehensive approach that includes:

  • Highly Trained Guides: All guides are certified in wilderness medicine and have extensive experience in high-altitude environments.
  • Emergency Equipment: Teams carry essential medical equipment, including satellite phones and emergency equipment.
  • Detailed Evacuation Plans: RMI has established protocols and plans for various emergency scenarios, ensuring swift and effective responses.
  • Relationship with Denali NPS Rangers: Over our years of guiding in the park, RMI has fostered a great working relationship with Denali National Park Service Rangers (the primary respondents to on-mountain emergencies).
  • Team Collaboration: RMI Expeditions almost always has more than one Denali team on the mountain concurrently, providing a massive asset in an emergency. If something were to happen, it is part of RMI’s emergency response plan to respond with all available teams.

 

Fitness and training

Denali is unique in expedition mountaineering in that your entire climb is self-supported, meaning there are no porters, mules, or cached supply points. You’ll start the expedition by hauling a 40-50 lbs sled and your backpack (60-80lbs) from Base Camp to higher camps. On the mountain, you’ll climb between camps multiple times to acclimate and cache gear in the weeks before your summit push. RMI recommends a comprehensive training program that includes:

  • Cardiovascular Training: Engage in running, cycling, and hiking to build endurance. At a minimum, climbers should be building their aerobic base for 6 months before the trip to see tangible physiological benefits, ideally spending a minimum of 10 hours per week on aerobic training.
  • Strength Training: Focus on exercises that strengthen the legs, core, and upper body, and balance-focused exercise and training. Given the heavy loads, Denali requires more strength training than other expeditions, and this training can also assist with injury prevention over the long climb.
  • Climbing-specific training: Practice with a weighted pack and train with it in steep, uneven terrain as much as possible.
  • High-Altitude Conditioning: If possible, spend time at high altitudes to acclimate your body. Other ways of training for altitude include VO2 max intervals, heat exposure training, and personal-use altitude training equipment.

For detailed training guidelines, visit our Route to Denali training resource.

To determine if you're physically ready for the Denali climb, RMI recommends the following steps:

  • Self-Assessment: Reflect on your overall fitness, endurance, and high-altitude experience. You should be comfortable with prolonged physical activity and carrying heavy loads. Uphill Athlete has an aerobic self-assessment for mountain athletes, which is a more technical metric.
  • Training Milestones: You should be able to hike for 6-8 hours with a 60 lb pack, ascend 4,000 feet daily, and repeat this several days in a row
  • Medical Check: A thorough examination can confirm your fitness level and identify potential health concerns.
  • Consultation with Guides: RMI staff can provide personalized feedback based on your training progress and physical condition, helping you assess your readiness accurately. As an RMI Expeditions client, you also get access to discounted training from the coaches at Uphill Athlete.

Climbing Denali via the West Buttress route is a significant challenge requiring a solid mountaineering foundation. Many RMI Guides consider it the most challenging of the Seven Summits, and as a climber, you should be confident in your skill level before attempting Denali. Guides will review necessary topics during the trip, but it should not be your first hearing about these skills. For an in-depth look at Denali's recommended path, check out our resource here.

 

RMI requires a certain level of skill and experience, including familiarity with:

  • Glacier travel experience
  • Summit day that exceeds 10 - 12 hours
  • Experience at altitudes above 14,000'
  • Familiarity with the skills needed for a cold, remote, and heavily glaciated peak
  • Crampon skills on 30 - 50 degree slopes
  • Team rope travel skills
  • Knots & slings - Prusik, butterfly, Münter, etc.
  • Snow and ice anchors (construction & equalization)
  • Belaying and running belay experience
  • Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuer perspectives, and considering heavy packs and sleds)
  • Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
  • Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
  • Snow camp construction

In addition to these requirements, most climbers who successfully summit Denali have the following skills and experience:

Previous Climbing Experience:Prospective climbers should have experience with multi-day expeditions and winter camping. You should be comfortable spending several weeks in a tent, cooking outdoors, and dealing with the rigors of cold-weather camping. This experience helps prepare climbers for the extended duration and challenging conditions of a Denali expedition.

Technical Skills:Proficiency in climbing skills is crucial. This includes glacier travel, crevasse rescue, fixed line ascension, and proficiency with ice axe and crampon techniques. These skills are essential for safely navigating Denali's crevassed terrain. RMI offers several programs to help climbers develop these skills, such as our Expedition Skills Seminars, which introduce critical techniques like self-arrest, rope travel, and managing cold weather conditions.

High-Altitude Experience:Denali’s summit stands at 20,310 feet, and climbers must be prepared for the challenges of high-altitude climbing. We suggest participating in high-altitude climbs such as the Peru or Ecuador Seminars, where climbers can gain experience on peaks above 18,000 feet. This helps you understand how your body reacts to altitude and improves your ability to acclimatize.

Physical Fitness:Excellent physical condition is mandatory. Climbers must have the stamina and strength to carry heavy packs (60-80 lbs) over steep, snowy/icy terrain for extended periods. Cardiovascular fitness, leg strength, balance, and endurance are particularly important. RMI provides training plans to help climbers physically prepare for Denali's demands.

Psychological Readiness:Climbing Denali is not just a physical challenge but also a mental one. Climbers must be prepared to deal with the psychological stresses of prolonged exposure to harsh conditions, physical exhaustion, and the mental fortitude required to push through tough situations. Downtime poses its own risks, with long days spent in tents, especially during inclement weather. Be sure to bring plenty of reading, listening, or watching material to keep you occupied, and practice mindful techniques in the months leading up to your expedition to prepare for potential boredom.

Yes, crevasse rescue training is required for West Buttress Denali expedition participants. Proficiency in crevasse rescue is essential due to the extensive glaciated terrain on Denali. Participants must be comfortable with rope travel and have the skills to perform self-rescue and assist others in crevasse rescue situations. This training ensures climbers can safely navigate the challenging glacier environment and respond effectively in emergencies.

Trip Planning and preparation

The best time to climb Denali via the West Buttress route is during the peak climbing season, which runs from early May to early July. This period offers the most stable weather conditions and longer daylight hours, which are critical for a successful and safe climb. During these months, temperatures are slightly warmer, and the weather is generally more predictable than earlier or later in the season. Additionally, the extended daylight provides more flexibility in day to day climbing plans. For more detailed information and to choose the best dates for your expedition, check out our Resources Page.

Over the last 10 years of data, the average age of participants was 42. â…“ of climbers were between 35 and 44, with nearly everyone else bookending between 25 and 54. 24% were 25-34, and 24% were 45-54. You must be at least 18 years old to climb Denali with RMI Expeditions.

For the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI, climbers must arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 p.m. on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m. at the Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1. If your flight cannot arrive in Anchorage before 1:00 p.m., arriving a day earlier and meeting the team at the airport the following day will be necessary.

Given the flexibility of the expedition's itinerary, you must allow 30 days to complete the expedition door-to-door. We do not have a set end date to fly off the mountain, which is extremely beneficial for your summit chances, but also means you may not be off the mountain in 21 days. If you don’t schedule enough time for the Denali experience, you risk missing whatever it is you have going on back at home, as the expedition will not end early for any single person.

You should purchase a one-way flight to Anchorage, AK to start your trip. For your return, you can either buy a ticket with a flexible return date or purchase your return flight once the team returns to Talkeetna. This approach helps avoid the risk of missing an early return flight or dealing with an open-ended ticket.

For more detailed information, visit the Travel Section of our program page.

To reach Denali Basecamp for the West Buttress route, participants follow a coordinated travel plan organized by RMI Expeditions:

  • Arrival in Anchorage: Arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 p.m. on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m. at the Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1.
  • Travel to Talkeetna: The team will travel together from Anchorage to Talkeetna, a small town that serves as the staging point for Denali expeditions. The journey from Anchorage to Talkeetna is by shuttle and RMI will arrange the necessary transportation.
  • Flight to Base Camp: In Talkeetna, climbers will undergo a final gear check and briefing. Weather permitting, the team will fly from Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier, where Denali Basecamp is located. The flight to Basecamp is approximately 45 minutes and offers stunning views of the Alaskan Range. We fly with K2 Aviation and are the only guide service that does so, so we get priority treatment.

This organized approach ensures that climbers are well-prepared and supported from their arrival in Anchorage to their arrival at Denali Basecamp.

For the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI, you should bring the following documents:

  • Government-Issued ID or Passport: A valid government-issued photo ID (such as a driver’s license) or passport is required for identification purposes. A passport is necessary if you are traveling from outside the United States.
  • Climbing Permits: You must bring printed copies of your climbing permit and National Park Entry Permit. We advise you to also bring printed receipts proving your purchase of both permits.
  • Travel Insurance Information: Bring copies of your travel insurance policy details, including coverage specifics and emergency contact numbers.
  • Medical Information: Any pertinent medical information, including health insurance cards, a list of current medications, and any medical conditions that guides should be aware of.
  • Flight Information: Copies of your itineraries to and from Anchorage and any hotel reservations in Anchorage and Talkeetna.
  • Emergency Contact Information: A list of emergency contacts guides can reach in an emergency.

Having these documents organized and easily accessible will help ensure a smooth and stress-free start to your expedition. Additionally, K2 Aviation has a system where you can leave important documents and wallets in sealed bags kept in their safe before flying to base camp.

Before embarking on the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI, it is essential to ensure you are in good health and take the necessary medical precautions:

  • Routine Vaccinations: Ensure that your routine vaccinations are up to date. This includes vaccines for measles, mumps, rubella (MMR), diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis (DTaP), varicella (chickenpox), polio, and the annual flu shot.
  • COVID-19: Stay informed about current COVID-19 guidelines and ensure you are vaccinated as per the latest recommendations.
  • Tetanus Booster: A tetanus booster is recommended if you haven't had one in the last 10 years.
  • Travel Health Precautions: Consult with your healthcare provider about any additional travel health precautions specific to Alaska. This may include medications for high-altitude acclimatization, such as acetazolamide (Diamox), which can help prevent altitude sickness.

International participants joining the West Buttress Denali expedition with RMI Expeditions must meet U.S. visa requirements. Here are the key points to consider:

  • Visa Type: Most international climbers will need a B-2 Tourist Visa to enter the United States for tourism, including participating in mountaineering expeditions.
  • Visa Waiver Program (VWP): Citizens of countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program (VWP) may be eligible to travel to the U.S. for tourism without a visa for up to 90 days. Before entering the U.S, travelers must apply for authorization through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA).

Application Process

  • Applying for Visas: Apply for a B-2 visa at your home country's U.S. Embassy or Consulate. The process typically includes completing the DS-160 form, paying the visa fee, and attending a visa interview. If eligible for the VWP, apply for ESTA online. The application process involves filling out an online form and paying a fee.
  • Documentation: Ensure you have the necessary documentation, including a valid passport, visa or ESTA approval, proof of financial stability, travel itinerary, and any other supporting documents required by the U.S. Embassy or Consulate.
  • Timing: Apply for your visa or ESTA well in advance of your travel date to account for processing times and any potential delays.

For more detailed information on U.S. visa requirements and to verify if your country is part of the VWP, visit the official U.S. Department of State website or consult with the U.S. Embassy or Consulate in your country.

Financial Planning

Besides the comprehensive pre-trip support by our experienced office staff, the expedition fee for the West Buttress Denali climb includes various services and equipment to support your journey. Here's what is covered:

  • RMI Leadership: The expertise and guidance of experienced RMI guides throughout the expedition.
  • Pre-trip Transportation: Transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna as outlined in the itinerary, as well as bush pilot services via K2 Aviation between Talkeetna and Kahiltna Base Camp.
  • Pre-trip Accommodations: Two nights of accommodation in Talkeetna at the start of the trip, providing a comfortable place to rest and prepare. All rates are based on double occupancy; if you would like to request single occupancy accommodation, you may do so for an additional cost.
  • Meals: Breakfast and dinner while on the mountain, ensuring you have nutritious meals to sustain your energy levels, as well as a variety of drink options (cider, tea, hot cocoa, etc.)
  • Group Gear: Essential group gear includes tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, fuel, and other communal items.

In addition to the expedition fee for the West Buttress Denali climb, participants should budget for several additional expenses:

  • Initial Travel Costs: Airfare to and from Anchorage, Alaska, and transportation back to Anchorage from Talkeetna. One-way transportation costs approximately $100 per person. RMI provides transportation to Talkeetna from Anchorage and round-trip chartered flights to Denali base camp.
  • Post-trip Accomodation: Hotel stays after the expedition. RMI provides accommodation in Talkeetna before the climb, and the office can help you find accommodation options and coordinate with other climbers. However, we recommend not booking your accommodation before your climb, as the exact time you’re on the mountain will vary. Additionally, pre-climb accommodation costs are based on double occupancy; if you would like a single room, you will be charged the additional cost.
  • Certain Meals: Meals in Anchorage and Talkeetna are not included in the expedition. Neither are on-mountain lunches and snacks; however, the RMI Office will send you plenty of material to help create the perfect “Meal Plan” while you’re on the mountain. On-mountain breakfasts and dinners are included in the landed cost. For more info, see our Food Resources page.
  • Permits: You must purchase a Denali Climbing Permit ($430 per person) and a National Park Entrance Fee ($15 per person). The RMI Office will help coordinate these purchases during your pre-trip planning.
  • Individual Gear: Purchase or rental of necessary climbing gear. RMI clients get a discount with our partner company, Whittaker Mountaineering, where you can buy or rent everything you need for Denali. We also supply group gear such as sleds, tents, cooking, and rescue equipment.
  • Personal Expenses: Miscellaneous personal expenses and gratuities for guides.

Tipping your guide is customary and appreciated as it recognizes the hard work and dedication they provide during the expedition. While tipping is not mandatory, it is a great way to show gratitude for their expertise, support, and efforts in ensuring a safe and successful climb. The amount can vary based on your satisfaction with the service and your budget. Generally, tips are given at the end of the expedition, and the recommended range is a personal choice, often influenced by the length and difficulty of the climb. If you need a starting point, 10-20% of your expedition cost is industry standard.

RMI recommends comprehensive travel insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering for the West Buttress Denali expedition. This should include:

  • Trip Cancellation and Interruption: To cover non-refundable expenses in case of trip cancellation or delays.
  • Emergency Medical: Essential for covering medical treatment. The climbing permit purchased through the NPS covers the cost of a SAR (Search and Rescue) operation on the mountain, so your insurance doesn’t need to cover Evacuation but should cover any potential medical followup.
  • Baggage and Gear Insurance: To protect against equipment loss, theft, or damage.

RMI recommends Travelex Insurance or Ripcord Insurance as trusted insurance providers. If you decide to use your provider, ensure your policy includes these coverages specifically for mountaineering activities at high altitudes.

RMI Expeditions has a clear refund and cancellation policy for the West Buttress Denali expedition. Please see our Policies section for more information.

What to expect on Denali

Alaskan weather conditions can be unpredictable, and flights into and out of Denali base camp are often subject to delays. RMI Expeditions has protocols in place to handle such situations:

  • Delays into Base Camp: If weather prevents the flight into Base Camp, the team will remain in Talkeetna until conditions improve. During this time, guides will conduct additional training sessions and gear checks to prepare for the climb. Participants should be prepared for potential delays, but be aware that delays getting into Base Camp will not detract from your on-mountain days due to RMI’s flexible program schedule.
  • Delays out of Base Camp: If weather delays the flight out of Base Camp, the team will stay in place until conditions allow for a safe departure. Guides will ensure climbers have adequate supplies and support during the extended stay, and RMI has up to 10 days' worth of supplies and food cached at Base Camp for this very reason.

RMI regularly communicates with K2 Aviation and the National Park Service to stay updated on weather conditions and availability. We will also keep participants informed about any changes or updates regarding the schedule. Safety is the top priority, and all flight decisions are made with this in mind. K2 Aviation, our longtime partner, will make this call and has decades of experience flying into and out of Denali Base Camp. RMI relies on K2 to make safe decisions about flying, the same way that you rely on RMI’s guides to make safe decisions in the mountains. RMI’s experienced guides will ensure that all measures are taken to provide a safe and comfortable experience during weather-related delays.

Climbing Denali via the West Buttress route involves encountering a wide range of weather conditions and temperatures, which can be extreme and unpredictable. Here's what you can expect:

Temperatures

  • Base Camp (7,200 feet): During the climbing season, temperatures can range from 0°F to 60°F (-6°C to 4°C). Warm weather isn’t usually at the top of one's mind on Alaskan expeditions, but the thin air and high sun can be just as uncomfortable as the cold if not handled properly.
  • Higher Elevations (up to 20,310 feet): Expect much colder temperatures. Summit temperatures can plummet to -20°F to -40°F (-29°C to -40°C) or even lower, and wind chills can make it feel significantly colder.

Weather Conditions

  • Cold and Wind: The higher you climb, the colder and windier it becomes. Winds can be very strong, especially on exposed ridges near the summit, potentially exceeding 50 mph (80 kph).
  • Snow: Snowfall can occur anytime, and heavy snowstorms are common. Fresh snow can create avalanche hazards and make progress more difficult.
  • Sun and UV Exposure:: Clear days at high altitudes mean intense sun and UV exposure. Sunscreen, glacier glasses, and proper clothing are essential to prevent sunburn and snow blindness. It can also feel extremely hot on the lower glacier (even though actual temps are low), with no way of hiding from the sun.
  • Storms: Severe storms can develop quickly, bringing high winds, heavy snowfall, extreme temperatures, and whiteout conditions. These storms can last several days, requiring climbers to remain in camp until conditions improve.

Denali's weather is heavily influenced by its proximity to the Arctic Circle and Gulf of Alaska (known for generating massive storms) and its immense elevation. This results in highly variable conditions that can change rapidly. Climbers must be prepared for weather scenarios, from relatively mild and sunny to severe. For more info on the weather, check out our Denali Resources section.

Cell phone coverage on Denali, particularly along the West Buttress route, is extremely limited and unreliable. Here are the key points regarding cell phone usage:

  • Limited Coverage: Most areas on Denali, including base camp and higher elevations, do not have cell phone coverage. Major carriers do not provide service in these remote, high-altitude regions.
  • Satellite Phones: RMI guides carry satellite phones for reliable communication. In emergencies, these phones communicate with the RMI office and the National Park Service. While not for personal use, the presence of satellite phones ensures that guides can manage communication effectively during the expedition.
  • Emergency Communications: In an emergency, satellite phones provide a crucial link to rescue services and support teams. This ensures that climbers have access to necessary help even without cell coverage. Guide radios also allow communication with other guide teams and independent climbers who may be able to assist.
  • Alternative Communication Devices: Some climbers bring personal satellite communication devices, such as Garmin inReach Mini or SPOT devices, which can send text messages and GPS coordinates. These devices can be useful for staying in touch with family and friends.
  • Battery Life and Cold Temperatures If you bring a cell phone, be aware that cold temperatures can significantly reduce battery life. It’s advisable to keep electronic devices insulated and carry extra batteries or power banks.

While your cell phone will not be a reliable means of communication on Denali, the expedition’s safety protocols and RMI guides' use of satellite phones ensure that necessary communication can always be maintained.

The final ascent to Denali's summit via the West Buttress route is carefully planned. At high camp, before summit day, guides conduct a formal exercise in risk management known as a GAR Model (Green Amber Red). Several factors are considered to determine potential risk on summit day. These variables include weather, snow, team fitness, and route conditions.

The push typically begins from High Camp at 17,200 feet, with climbers acclimatizing and waiting for a suitable weather window. On the summit day, the team starts early, often 8:00 or 9:00 AM, to take advantage of stable morning weather. The route includes key sections like the Autobahn, Denali Pass, the Football Field, Pig Hill, and the Summit Ridge. Climbers are roped together for safety, with guides ensuring a steady pace and frequent breaks for hydration and nutrition. Maintaining layering systems and cold protection is also a big part of the summit day.

Throughout the ascent, guides continuously assess weather conditions and climbers' health, prioritizing safety. If conditions worsen or any team member is distressed, the guides may decide to turn back. Guides also rely on honest and open communication with the whole team to make the best decisions for individual climbers and the team. Upon reaching the summit, climbers celebrate briefly before beginning the descent to High Camp. The descent is managed with the same care as the ascent to address everyone's safety. This meticulous planning and execution will give you your best shot at a summit attempt and safe return. For a look at the full climb itinerary, click here.

The West Buttress Denali expedition itinerary includes several weather days to account for the unpredictable conditions on the mountain. These buffer days are built into the schedule to allow flexibility and maximize the chances of a successful summit attempt. The exact number of weather days can vary, but typically, RMI Expeditions plans for around 5-7 weather days within the overall 21 - to 30-day expedition. This ensures climbers have sufficient time to wait for safe weather windows for both the ascent and descent and are often welcome rest days that help with acclimatization.

Unlike other guide services, RMI does not have a hard “fly-off date” that forces an early end to the expedition. This flexibility ensures climbers have sufficient time to wait for safe weather windows for both the ascent and descent. It is also why you are strongly encouraged to plan for a full month away from your responsibilities despite the trip possibly being as short as 21 days.

RMI Guides are critical in ensuring the West Buttress Denali expedition's safety, success, and overall experience. Their responsibilities include leading the team through Denali's challenging terrain, providing expert navigation, and making crucial route selection and pacing decisions while maintaining an adequate margin of safety. They are also responsible for conducting thorough gear checks, managing group equipment, and choosing campsites at various altitudes. Guides continuously monitor weather conditions and the health and well-being of the climbers, making adjustments to the plan as needed to help create the conditions for success and safety.

Besides logistical and safety roles, RMI Guides offer valuable instruction and support to climbers. They teach essential mountaineering skills such as glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and proper use of technical gear. Guides also provide motivation and encouragement, helping climbers maintain a positive mindset throughout the expedition. Their extensive experience and knowledge of Denali’s conditions are key factors in successfully reaching the summit and returning safely.

Finally, RMI Guides are your personal chefs! They will do almost all the cooking, boiling water, and meal prep. You might not expect it, but previous RMI clients have had incredible feedback about our guides' chef skills!

As a climber on the West Buttress Denali expedition, you are expected to be physically fit and well-prepared for the demanding conditions of high-altitude mountaineering. This includes having prior experience in multi-day backpacking, winter camping, and mountaineering skills such as glacier travel and crevasse rescue. You should be able to carry heavy loads (up to 80 lbs) over steep and challenging terrain and be prepared for long days of sustained physical effort. Mental toughness and a positive attitude are also crucial for handling the physical and psychological demands of the climb and ensuring you are a team player.

Besides physical preparation, you are expected to actively participate in all aspects of the expedition. This includes attending all training sessions, gear checks, and briefings. You should follow the guidance and instructions of the RMI Guides, adhere to safety protocols, and work collaboratively with your team members. Personal responsibility for your equipment, maintaining good hygiene, and being prepared for sudden weather changes are also essential. Your commitment and readiness to adapt to the expedition’s demands will contribute significantly to the overall success and safety of the climb.

If you do not reach the summit of Denali, you will still have many valuable experiences and accomplishments to take away from the expedition. The expedition's primary goal is to ensure the safety and well-being of all participants. Various factors, such as weather conditions, altitude sickness, or personal physical limitations, can prevent a summit. RMI Guides prioritize safety and may turn back if conditions are unfavorable or if any team member's health is at risk. This decision is always made with the best interest of the entire group in mind.

Even without summiting, climbers gain significant experience and skills from the expedition. You can develop and refine your mountaineering techniques, build resilience, and experience Denali's unique environment. The camaraderie and support within the team, along with the guidance of experienced RMI Guides, contribute to a rewarding adventure regardless of whether the summit is reached. Each expedition provides valuable lessons and memories that can be applied to future climbing endeavors.

Climbing Denali via the West Buttress route presents significant physical and mental challenges. Physically, you will face extreme cold, high winds, and heavy snowfall. Temperatures can drop to -40°F (-40°C) or lower, and wind chill can make it feel even colder. You must carry a heavy pack (up to 60 lbs) and drag a sled loaded with gear and supplies, often on steep and icy terrain. The altitude, reaching up to 20,310 feet, can cause altitude sickness, fatigue, and decreased blood oxygen levels, making every step more strenuous.

Mentally, the expedition demands resilience and perseverance. Long days of physical exertion, combined with potentially prolonged periods of waiting in camp due to bad weather, can be mentally taxing. The isolation and remoteness of the environment can also contribute to feelings of stress and anxiety. Maintaining a positive attitude, staying motivated, and supporting your team members is crucial for overcoming these mental challenges. Learn more about Denali's challenges and risks here.

RMI Expeditions is well-prepared to handle altitude sickness and other medical issues on Denali. Our guides are highly trained in wilderness medicine and equipped with comprehensive medical kits. If a climber shows symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headaches, nausea, or dizziness, guides will monitor the condition closely. Mild symptoms may be managed with rest, hydration, and medications like acetazolamide (Diamox) taken under guide supervision. Mild altitude sickness is common and not necessarily something that will put an end to your expedition. If symptoms worsen or do not improve, the affected climber will descend to a lower altitude, which is the most effective treatment for altitude sickness.

For more serious medical issues, RMI guides are trained to provide initial care and stabilize the patient. They carry satellite phones and VHF radios for emergency communication and can coordinate with the National Park Service for necessary evacuations. Evacuations may be conducted by helicopter or fixed-wing aircraft, depending on weather conditions and the climber's location on the mountain. The guides' extensive training and experience ensure that medical issues are handled promptly and effectively, prioritizing the safety and well-being of all participants.

The daily routine on the West Buttress Denali expedition is structured to balance climbing activities, acclimatization, and rest. A typical day starts early with breakfast and hot drinks to fuel up for the day's activities. After breakfast, the team packs up camp and prepares their gear for the day’s objective. Depending on the itinerary, the day may involve moving to a higher camp or carrying loads to cache gear. Climbers are roped together for safety during glacier travel and ascend steadily, taking short breaks to rest, hydrate, and eat snacks.

Once the team reaches the day's destination, they set up camp, build protective walls out of snow if necessary, and prepare the tents. Afternoons and evenings are spent melting snow for water, cooking meals, and discussing the next day's plans. Dinner is followed by a team meeting to review the day’s progress and weather forecasts. Evenings provide time for rest and personal care, such as managing gear and preparing for the next day. This structured routine helps climbers acclimate and maintain their strength for the ascent.

Maintaining hygiene and sanitation on Denali is crucial for health and comfort during the expedition. RMI Expeditions follows strict protocols to ensure cleanliness and minimize environmental impact. Personal hygiene is managed using biodegradable wipes and hand sanitizer, as running water is unavailable at high altitudes. Climbers are encouraged to maintain good personal hygiene by regularly cleaning their hands, face, and body using these supplies.

Sanitation is handled with careful waste management practices. Human waste is packed out using Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs) provided to each expedition team. These cans securely contain waste, preventing contamination of the environment. All trash, including food waste and packaging, is also packed out and disposed of properly after the expedition. Additionally, climbers use designated areas for toileting and guides instruct them on properly using CMCs to ensure everyone follows Leave No Trace principles. These measures help maintain a clean and healthy camp environment.

On our West Buttress Denali expedition, RMI Expeditions provides a well-planned menu to meet the nutritional needs of climbers in a high-altitude, cold-weather environment. The food is designed to be high in calories, carbohydrates, and protein to sustain energy levels and support physical exertion. Meals are prepared using lightweight, non-perishable ingredients that are easy to transport and cook.

Breakfast typically includes hot cereals like oatmeal, powdered milk, dried fruits, nuts, and energy bars. Lunches are not provided by RMI but should consist of easy-to-eat, simple foods. Dinner is a more substantial meal, often featuring soups, instant rice or pasta (or freeze-dried entrees that can be easily rehydrated with hot water if time is short), and desserts like hot cocoa or pudding. RMI provides tea, hot chocolate, and hot cider, but not coffee. Climbers should bring enough instant coffee for themselves.

Meal preparation is done primarily by RMI Guides to avoid complications with finicky stoves. Melting snow for water is crucial to meal prep, and ensuring everyone stays hydrated is a priority. Guides also provide instruction on safe food handling and hygiene practices to prevent illness. This well-structured meal plan ensures climbers receive the nutrition to perform at their best and enjoy their time on the mountain.

While RMI provides on-mountain breakfast and dinner, you are expected to provide your own lunches, snacks, and coffee. On the Denali—West Buttress expedition, you will need 22 mountain lunches, all of which should weigh about 20 lbs.

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb — lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Take care while shopping for your personal mountain lunch items. Don't wait until the last minute. Make a list in advance and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer many gourmet and specialty foods and your old, stand-by favorites. Keep in mind that, for the most part, Denali stays cold enough to preserve perishable food for weeks.

Recommended mountain lunch items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins, etc.), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and personal drink mixes for the trip (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, instant coffee, hot cider). RMI will provide hot cocoa mix and teas.

Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

Gear, Apparel, & Equipment

Packing for the West Buttress Denali expedition requires careful planning to ensure you have all the necessary gear while adhering to weight limits. RMI Expeditions provides a detailed packing list with essential items for climbing and camping in extreme conditions. Following the packing list closely is crucial to ensure you have the right gear for safety and comfort. There is no reliable place to buy gear in Talkeetna, so it’s important to be certain of your kit before flying to Alaska. Expedition Lead Guides will have a Zoom call with their teams to go over gear before the trip and answer any questions you might have.

Weight management is critical because you must carry all your gear up the mountain. Each climber's pack typically weighs between 60-80 lbs, and you'll also be pulling a sled with additional equipment and supplies. To manage weight, prioritize lightweight and compact gear, and consider sharing group items, like books or charging devices, with teammates. RMI provides specific guidelines on weight limits and packing techniques to help you distribute the load efficiently and ensure everything is well-organized and accessible during the climb.

Yes, West Buttress Denali expedition climbers must carry group gear and personal equipment. This includes essential items such as tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, fuel, and group food supplies. The weight of group gear is distributed among all team members to ensure an even load. Each climber's pack, therefore, will contain a mix of personal gear, group gear, and food, typically weighing between 60-80 lbs. Additionally, climbers will pull sleds carrying extra supplies and equipment, adding another 30-50 lbs. Most climbers will carry personal items in their packs, and use the sled for group gear, as these items tend to be lighter but bulkier.

On the West Buttress Denali expedition, each climber's pack typically weighs between 60 and 80 lbs. This weight includes personal gear such as clothing, sleeping bags, mountaineering equipment, and food for several days. In addition to the backpack, climbers will also be responsible for pulling a sled carrying additional supplies, group gear, and equipment, which can add another 20 to 40 lbs of weight.

Therefore, the combined weight of the backpack and sled can range from 100 to 125 lbs. Efficient packing and proper weight distribution are essential to managing this load effectively, with the goal being 60-75% of the weight in your pack and the rest in your sled. Guides will provide instructions and assistance to ensure each climber can carry their share comfortably and safely. Proper physical preparation and training are also crucial to handling the demands of carrying such weights over challenging terrain.

While your guides will have a comprehensive group medical kit for serious injuries, you should bring a small personal first aid kit to deal with small things (blister prevention, ibuprofen, cold/cough medicine) and any unique medical issues you have, including personal medication.

While you must bring a range of personal gear for the West Buttress Denali expedition, RMI provides some group equipment and specialized items. Below is a breakdown of the group gear RMI will provide. For personal gear, please see our Gear page.

Group Gear

  • Sleds
  • Tents
  • Cooking equipment (stoves, pots, fuel)
  • Comprehensive Group medical kit
  • Climbing ropes (for group use)
  • Snow saws and shovels
  • Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs) for waste management provided by the NPS

Safety Equipment

  • Satellite phones for communication
  • VHF Radios
  • Emergency shelters and rescue equipment

RMI's comprehensive packing list ensures that you are well-prepared for the expedition. It is crucial to follow the list closely to ensure you have the right gear for safety and comfort.

Skis on the West Buttress Denali expedition are not allowed for several reasons. Climbers are roped together for safety, and managing skis while being roped up can be cumbersome and dangerous. Additionally, each climber will pull a sled loaded with gear, making skis impractical. The varying snow conditions on Denali can also complicate skiing, with the potential for icy sections, deep snow, and crevassed areas. Finally, the implications for crevasse rescue make skis a liability, as they can hinder swift and safe rescue operations. For these reasons, skis are not permitted on classic West Buttress expeditions, however, you should contact the office about a custom Expedition if you'd like to approach with skis.

Your guide may decide to bring skis, which they may use to travel on the lower mountain. Skis can be useful in rescuing or if the guide needs to move around the mountain quickly for various reasons.

RMI Expeditions offers the option to purchase gear directly from their partner retail shop, Whittaker Mountaineering. This shop specializes in high-quality mountaineering equipment and apparel that meets the specific requirements of expeditions like the West Buttress Denali climb. Climbers can find a wide range of gear, including clothing, boots, technical equipment, and camping supplies, all recommended and approved for the expedition.

Whittaker Mountaineering provides an online store where you can browse and purchase items. Additionally, you can rent almost all of the required items for Denali that you may not want to purchase, such as double boots, -20 to -40 sleeping bags, and expedition parkas. The staff at Whittaker Mountaineering are knowledgeable about Denali's gear requirements and can provide expert advice to help you make the best choices.

For more detailed information and to explore available gear, visit the Whittaker Mountaineering website.

Layering your clothing effectively is crucial for staying warm, dry, and comfortable on the West Buttress Denali expedition. The key is to follow a core layering system and adapt based on conditions, while also adhering to your guides' recommendations, as they have extensive experience with the mountain's conditions. Guides will often provide input through emails, forums, and Zoom meetings before the expedition.

The guides' recommendations are invaluable, as they know the nuances of Denali’s weather and conditions. They might suggest bringing a couple of extra items, like a wind shirt and a puffy vest, to adapt to varying conditions. For more detailed information, check out the Denali Apparel resources page.

For the West Buttress Denali expedition, proper footwear is critical for warmth, comfort, and safety. The recommended options are double boots with a neoprene overboot or dedicated 8000m boots. Here are the most common and appropriate choices:

Recommended Boots:

Double Boots:
  • La Sportiva Spantik
  • Scarpa Phantom 6000
  • Lowa Expedition 6000 Evo RD
8000m Boots:
  • La Sportiva Olympus Mons
  • Scarpa Phantom 8000
  • Lowa 8000 GTX
Overboots (for use with double boots):
  • Forty Below K2 Superlight
  • Outdoor Research Brooks Range Overboots
Importance of Fit:

Ensuring that your boots fit well is crucial. Spend time wearing your boots before the trip to break them in and confirm that they are sized correctly to your feet. Consider using a more supportive insole for added comfort and stability. Proper fit helps prevent blisters, cold spots, and discomfort during long days on the mountain. Try your boots with the socks you plan to wear during the expedition to ensure a snug yet comfortable fit.

Choosing the right footwear and ensuring a proper fit will enhance your comfort and performance on Denali’s challenging terrain. For more detailed information, see our Denali Gear and Apparel page.

Maintaining and caring for your gear during the West Buttress Denali expedition is essential for ensuring its functionality and safety. Regularly check your equipment for any wear or damage, especially critical items like, harnesses, and crampons. Clean off snow, ice, and moisture from your gear at the end of each day to prevent freezing and deterioration. This includes drying out your boots, gloves, and other clothing to maintain their insulating properties. In case of gear failure, guides carry comprehensive repair kits and can assist in patching sleeping bags, sewing up gloves, resetting zippers, etc.

Organize your gear in your tent to keep it dry and accessible. Use dry bags and stuff sacks to protect items from moisture. Store your boot liners and any items that can freeze inside your sleeping bag to keep them warm at night. Keep your electronics, like headlamps and communication devices, insulated from the cold to preserve battery life. Regular maintenance and proper gear storage will help you stay prepared and efficient throughout the expedition.

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