Illimani and Huayna Potosi

16 Days

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Mountaineering

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8100.00

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$1,500

Deposit

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Advanced

Overview

Technical

Huayna Potosi and Illimani are serious high-altitude alpine objectives requiring steep ice and technical ridge climbing, with a 2:1 guide ratio ensuring the individual attention these climbs demand.

Progressive

The expedition builds through a Condoriri Group summit before moving to Huayna Potosi and then Illimani, with acclimatization and technical preparation built into each stage.

Cultural

The program moves through La Paz, the world's highest capital city, and Lake Titicaca before heading into the mountains, immersing climbers in the ancient culture and extraordinary landscape of the Bolivian Altiplano.

Bolivia's Cordillera Real rises above the Altiplano in a chain of glaciated peaks that has drawn alpinists for generations, and the Illimani and Huayna Potosi expedition puts climbers on three of its finest summits across sixteen days. This is a program for experienced mountaineers ready to push into genuinely technical high-altitude terrain. Huayna Potosi at 19,974 feet involves steep ice and exposed ridge climbing on the way to one of the most spectacular summit views in South America. Illimani at 21,122 feet is the crown of the Cordillera Real, a serious objective with exposed ridge climbing and steep faces that demands everything the expedition has built toward.

The program is structured deliberately. It begins in La Paz, the world's highest capital, where the city itself at nearly 12,000 feet starts the acclimatization process before the team visits Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca and moves into the mountains. The Condoriri Group comes first, with an ascent of Pequeño Alpamayo via Tarija that introduces the technical terrain and builds altitude experience before Huayna Potosi. A rest day between the two main objectives gives the team time to recover and prepare for the harder climb ahead.

A 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio runs throughout the expedition. On terrain this technical and at altitudes this high, that level of individual attention is not a luxury. It is what makes the difference between a summit and a turnaround, and between a safe expedition and a dangerous one.

WHY RMI

Setting the Standard Since 1969

RMI has been leading climbers on high-altitude alpine objectives across the Andes for decades, and the guides on this program bring that accumulated technical experience to every aspect of how the expedition is run. The Cordillera Real demands more than altitude endurance. Steep ice, exposed ridges, and technical terrain on all three objectives require guides who can teach, assess, and lead simultaneously. The 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio is central to how this expedition operates, providing the individual attention that makes the difference on terrain this demanding and at elevations this high. RMI guides hold wilderness medicine certifications, carry comprehensive medical and rescue kits and satellite communication equipment, and participate in continuing education each year to ensure their technical skills remain current.

The logistical foundation of this expedition reflects the same depth of preparation. Private vehicles move the team efficiently between La Paz, the Condoriri Group, Huayna Potosi, and Illimani, minimizing road time and keeping energy focused on the climbing. RMI uses its own climbing equipment brought from the US, ensuring the standards of quality and reliability that define every RMI expedition are maintained throughout. Hand-picked hotels and meals keep climbers comfortable and healthy between demanding days on the mountain, and every detail from airport transfers to camp setup is handled before departure.

Together those elements, the guide ratio, the equipment standards, the logistical precision, and decades of high-altitude Andean experience, are what make the difference on an expedition of this scope and technical complexity.

To learn more about RMI's history and values as a guide service, visit our About page.

Expedition Highlights

Itinerary

Overview

The expedition begins in La Paz before moving to Lake Titicaca and Isla del Sol for cultural immersion and acclimatization, then heads into the Cordillera Real for a progressive sequence of three summit objectives: Pequeño Alpamayo in the Condoriri Group, Huayna Potosi, and finally Illimani, the highest peak in the range.

Point of Origin

La Paz, Bolivia

Highest Point

21,122' / 6,437 m

Total Program Duration

16 Days

Summit Days

3

Acclimatization Days

3

Longest Day

10–12 Hours

Day 1

TRAVEL DAY

Depart U.S.A. Travel to La Paz, Bolivia (LPB) typically takes 18 - 24 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times. Although not required it is highly recommended to arrive 24 hours prior to the start of the program to allow for some additional time to acclimatize as well as to allow some margin for any travel complications.

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Day 2

ARRIVE & EXPLORE LA PAZ  •  11,942' | 3,640m

Flights often arrive between midnight and 7 am. Upon arrival in La Paz, take a taxi to our hotel. Today we explore La Paz, visiting such attractions as the Witches Market (Mercado de Brujas) and the Mira Mira City Overlook. We will have an evening orientation meeting to prepare for the days ahead. Overnight in La Paz. (B)

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Day 3

LAKE TITICACA • 12,600' | 3,840m

A morning bus ride brings us to the resort town of Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest lake. We catch a boat from a nearby harbor to the Isla del Sol where we can enjoy the lake and enjoy the famous La Estancia Ecolodge. Overnight on the Isla del Sol. (B, L)

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Day 4

ISLA DEL SOL  •  12,800' | 3,901m

The island contains many ruins dating back to 800 A.D., which we will explore as we hike around the area, stretching our legs and lungs as we acclimatize for the mountains ahead. Overnight on the Isla del Sol. (B, L, D)

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Day 5

RINCONADA • 14,500' | 4,419m

We leave Lake Titicaca and turn our attention to the mountains. We drive to Rinconada camp at the trailhead below the Condoriri Group. We set up tents for the first time and enjoy the spectacular scenery and looming mountains. (B, L, D)

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Day 6

CONDORIRI BASE CAMP  •  15,200' | 4,633m

We pack up camp and meet our muleteers who help transport some of our gear to Base Camp on donkeys. A two hour approach brings us to Condoriri Base Camp. After setting up camp we venture to the toe of the glacier to review some more advanced mountaineering techniques ahead of our attempt on Pequeño Alpamayo. We return to camp in the mid afternoon in anticipation of an early bedtime and alpine start. (B, L, D)

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Day 7

PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO SUMMIT  • 17,800' | 5,425M

A middle of the night launch brings us to the base of the glacier where we trained the day prior. Our first objective of the day is to summit Tarija, a relatively straightforward glacier climb to just above 5000m. From the summit of Tarija if conditions allow we will make a short descent on 3rd and 4th class rock and then continue up the adjoining ridge with a few pitches of moderate neve or ice climbing to the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo. We return to our base camp for overnight. (B, L, D)

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Day 8

HUAYNA POTOSI BASE CAMP •  15,200' | 4,633m

After breakfast we break down camp and again with the assistance of donkeys return to the trailhead. We then drive 2-3 hours to Huayna Potosi. Overnight at Refugio Vista Panoramica. (B, L, D)

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Day 9

REFUGIO LAS ROCAS  •  16,830' | 5,130m

We take a casual morning to recover from our previous summit attempt. We ascend for 2-3 hours to Rocas Refugio with the help from porters with some of our gear. Overnight in Refugio. (B, L, D)

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Day 10

HUAYNA POTOSI SUMMIT DAY (19,974' | 6,088m)  •  10,600' | 3,230m

We contour around the flanks of Huayna Potosi, overcoming sections of steep ice and rock on our way to a spectacular summit vista. We return to La Paz in the evening and enjoy an evening in town. (B, L)

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Day 11

REST DAY

Today we relax and recover from previous summit attempts.  We will recharge and refuel as we prepare for our climb of Illimani, our last objective of the trip. (B, L)

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Day 12

ILLIMANI BASE CAMP  •  15,454' | 4,710M

We rise early in the morning and load our gear into 4x4's to approach Illimani. After traversing stunning mountain roads, we arrive at Illimani Base Camp and set up tents in a beautiful meadow below our final objective.  (B, L, D).

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Day 13

NIDO DE CONDORES  •  17,997' | 5,485M

After enjoying beautiful views of La Paz at night from our base camp, we meet our porters and pack up and climb to our high camp at the Condor's Nest (Nido de Condores). This high desolate perch affords us unparalleled views of the climbing route and breathtaking valleys below.  (B, L, D)

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Day 14

ILLIMANI SUMMIT DAY (21,122' | 6,437m)  •  15,454' | 4,710M

Exposed ridge climbing and steep faces lead us to the broad summit of the Illimani. Round trip to the summit and back to camp should take 10 - 12 hours. We continue our descent to Base Camp and spend our last night in the mountains.  (B, L, D)

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Day 15

RETURN TO LA PAZ  •  11,942' | 3,640M

After a relaxing breakfast, we pack up camp, descend to the trail head and make the drive back to La Paz. We will end the day with our team celebration dinner. Overnight in La Paz. (B, L)

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Day 16

TRAVEL

Take a taxi to the airport for flights back to the U.S. Most outgoing flights will either leave early in the morning or later that evening. (B)

Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.
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Qualifications

Fitness

You should arrive in excellent physical condition and prepared for steep technical climbing at extreme altitude, with summit days reaching up to twelve hours on demanding terrain above 20,000 feet.

Experience

Climbers should have solid technical mountaineering skills including steep ice climbing, crampon technique, and roped travel on exposed terrain before arriving in La Paz.

Altitude

This program reaches 21,122 feet on Illimani, and climbers should have previous experience at altitude above 14,000 feet and be prepared to perform technically on steep terrain well above that elevation.

The Cordillera Real expedition is designed for experienced mountaineers ready to operate on genuinely technical high-altitude terrain across multiple objectives. This is not an instructional program. Climbers are expected to arrive with a working command of steep ice climbing, crampon technique, ice axe arrest, and roped travel on exposed ridges, and the fitness to apply those skills over consecutive summit days at serious altitude. The 2:1 guide ratio provides exceptional individual attention on the mountain, but it is not a substitute for arriving prepared.

Training should emphasize sustained aerobic output, technical climbing fitness, and the ability to perform demanding physical tasks while fatigued and at altitude. The acclimatization sequence built into the itinerary, from La Paz through Lake Titicaca and the Condoriri Group before the main objectives, is carefully designed to give the team the best possible chance on Huayna Potosi and Illimani. Arriving already fit and acclimatized from regular training at elevation will directly improve your performance on every peak.

Climbers completing the Cordillera Real expedition gain experience with steep ice climbing, technical ridge climbing, multi-peak expedition pacing, and high-altitude mountaineering on serious Andean objectives above 20,000 feet.

Recommended Climbing Resumé

Your climbing resumé should include:

Previous experience on steep glacier and ice terrain*

Comfortable with crampon technique on slopes steeper than 45 degrees*

Proficient with ice axe arrest and self-rescue techniques*

Previous experience at altitudes above 14,000 feet*

Fixed line travel and mechanical ascender experience

Multi-day expedition experience carrying full loads between camps

Strong technical fitness with a focused training program in place

Items marked with an Asterix (*) are considered mandatory prerequisites for this program.

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering places sustained demands on your body and your ability to stay composed under effort. Even very fit people find that moving uphill with weight, for long hours, in variable weather is a different kind of challenge than most everyday training.

Preparation matters. Fitness directly affects how well you move, how much you learn, how the team functions, and how enjoyable the experience is overall.

Start early. Begin training well in advance of your program with the goal of arriving rested, resilient, and confident in your capacity for sustained effort.

Train intentionally. Emphasize aerobic endurance, uphill movement, and strength that supports long days on your feet. Core stability, balance, and mobility all play an important role in efficiency and injury prevention.

Train specifically. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the demands of mountaineering: hiking uphill with weight, moving steadily for hours, and recovering well enough to do it again the next day.

Across RMI programs, strong preparation typically means being comfortable with long days of continuous movement, carrying a pack appropriate to the objective, and maintaining focus and decision-making when tired. Technical skills are taught or reviewed as appropriate to each program, but fitness is something you bring with you.

Nothing contributes more to a successful and rewarding experience than arriving well prepared. Plan to be in excellent physical condition and ready for a demanding day in the mountains.

Total Hiking Time

Elevation Gain / Loss

Total Distance

Pack Weight

DAY 5 | RINCONADA CAMP

2 hours

Gain = 800'

3 miles

15 - 20 lb

DAY 6 | CONDORIRI BASE CAMP

2 Hours

Gain = 700'

2.5 miles round trip

15 - 20 lb

DAY 7 | PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO SUMMIT

8 - 9 hours

Gain = 2,600' | Loss = 2,600'

5.5 miles round trip

20 - 25 lb

DAY 9 | REFUGIO LAS ROCAS

2 - 3 Hours

Gain = 1,630'

2 - 3 miles

15 - 20 lb

DAY 10 | HUAYNA POTOSI SUMMIT DAY

9 - 12 hours

Gain = 3,144' | Loss = 6,774'

2 miles

30 - 40 lb

DAY 12 | ILLIMANI BASE CAMP

3 - 4 hours

5 miles

15 - 20 lb

DAY 13 | NIDO DE CONDORES

5 - 6 hours

Gain = 2,543'

2.5 miles

35 - 45 lb

DAY 14 | ILLIMANI SUMMIT DAY

10 - 12 Hours

Gain = 3,125' | Loss = 5,668'

6 miles round trip

20 - 25 lb

Fitness And Training Resources

Our guides have decades of experience training for alpine objectives, and we've done our best to put together relevant resources to help you with your expedition preparation.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is the process by which your body adjusts to lower oxygen levels at altitude. How well this happens has a direct impact on how you feel, how you perform, and how much margin you have as the climb progresses.

Program length and structure matter. Longer expeditions are designed with ascent profiles that allow your body more time to adapt. Shorter programs often move through altitude faster than the body can fully adjust. In these cases, climbers typically experience mild but normal symptoms associated with early acclimatization rather than full adaptation. This is expected and accounted for in program design.

Physical conditioning plays a major role. Well-conditioned climbers generally have more energy available to support the acclimatization process over consecutive days. Fitness does not prevent altitude exposure, but it improves resilience, recovery, and the ability to function well while your body is adapting.

How you take care of yourself matters just as much as the itinerary. Arriving healthy and rested, staying well hydrated, eating consistently, and managing heat loss all support acclimatization and performance. These factors become increasingly important as altitude, duration, and cumulative fatigue increase.

RMI programs are structured to balance objective goals with appropriate acclimatization strategies for the terrain and timeframe involved. Individual responses to altitude vary, but strong preparation and good self-care remain the most reliable ways to support a positive experience at elevation.

Your Role as a Climber

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Before any program begins, RMI works directly with prospective climbers to confirm that everyone joining a team is genuinely prepared for the demands ahead. Depending on the program, this may involve conversations with our office staff, a review of your climbing history, or feedback from guides and other climbers who know your abilities. The goal is straightforward: to ensure that every person on the rope belongs there. We ask that each climber hold themselves to the same standard:

  • Meet Program Prerequisites: Arrive with the climbing experience, qualifications, and gear outlined for your program.
  • Arrive Prepared: Come in top physical and mental condition. Strong preparation directly affects your performance, your teammates' experience, and the team's overall safety.
  • Be Informed: Review all pre-departure materials and communicate any questions to the RMI office before your start date.
  • Medical Clearance: Provide any required medical documentation and inform the RMI office of any changes to your health before departure.
  • Team Consideration: Act considerately toward all team members and respect the customs and values of the areas you travel through.
  • Environmental Respect: Follow Leave No Trace practices throughout the program.
  • Communicate Honestly: Accurately represent your fitness, health, skills, and equipment to your guide staff, and keep them informed of any changes during the program.
  • Stay Accountable: Attend all briefings and gear checks, follow guide instructions, and take personal responsibility for your equipment, hygiene, and readiness for changing conditions.
  • Self-Assess Continuously: Evaluate your fitness and readiness honestly against the demands of the program. Your willingness to do so contributes directly to the safety of the entire team.

The standards we set exist to protect everyone on the team. RMI holds all climbers accountable to them, and we take seriously our responsibility to build teams of people who are ready to be in the mountains together. RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including evacuation, transportation, lodging, and meals.

Equipment

What You'll Need

The Cordillera Real expedition operates across three summit objectives over sixteen days, reaching 21,122 feet on Illimani, and the gear list reflects decades of RMI guiding experience on high-altitude technical objectives in the Andes. Every item has been selected to support steep ice climbing, technical ridge travel, and summit days at extreme altitude where conditions can deteriorate rapidly. Every experienced mountaineer refines their kit over time, but this list represents what RMI expects climbers to bring to Bolivia.

Not every item may be used on every objective, but all required equipment must be available throughout the expedition. The technical demands vary across the three peaks, and having the right gear in place on each summit day directly affects both your experience and the security of the team. RMI uses its own climbing equipment brought from the US, ensuring the standards of quality and reliability that define every RMI expedition are maintained from the Condoriri Group to the summit of Illimani.

Guide pick™

Each RMI program includes a required personal equipment list built around the specific terrain, conditions, and objectives of the climb. Every item serves a purpose and supports safety, efficiency, and comfort in the mountains.

Guide Picks™ are examples that meet our performance standards and illustrate the type of gear we recommend. Each year, our partners at Whittaker Mountaineering survey our staff of 70+ guides to get a consensus on the best gear for the job. You do not need to purchase the exact item shown, but any alternative must offer comparable function and durability.

All listed items are required for the gear check. Final adjustments may be recommended by your guide based on conditions and team needs once the expedition begins.

Gear Up

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.

Equipment List

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Pack & Travel

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Technical Gear

Head

Hands

Upper Body

Lower Body

Feet

First Aid & Medications

Personal Items

Travel Clothes

Travel Documents

Pre-Trip Checklist

Provided Equipment

Pack & Travel

100+ Duffel Bag(s)

A durable duffel bag (100-120L) made of tough material with rugged zippers for gear transport and storage. Can be used as checked luggage and for organizing gear at base locations.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

Luggage Locks

Bring as needed. Make sure these are TSA-compliant.

Guide Pick™
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Pack & Travel

50+ Liter Backpack

A technical climbing pack large enough to carry personal gear, layers, food, water, and a share of group equipment. You will not need a separate summit pack.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

25+ Liter Day Pack

A lightweight day pack for carry-on luggage, sightseeing, or light day use. For ski programs, a pack with ski-carrying capability is recommended.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

0° - 20°F Sleeping Bag

We recommend a bag rated between 20° and 0° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a 0° F bag.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Compression Stuff Sack For Sleeping Bag

A compression stuff sack to reduce sleeping bag volume and protect it from moisture during transport and on the mountain.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

A full-length inflatable sleeping pad for warmth and comfort in alpine conditions.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Closed Foam Sleeping Pad

A full-length closed-cell foam pad for insulation and puncture insurance, used alone or in combination with an inflatable pad.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Ice Tool(s)

A pair of technical ice tools with curved shafts and aggressive picks designed for steep ice and mixed climbing.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Ice Axe

A straight-shaft ice axe with a classic pick and adze designed for glacier travel, self-arrest, and general snow climbing. Should be appropriately sized for your height.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Hybrid Ice Axe With Hammer

A 50 - 55 cm hybrid ice axe with hammer for steep terrain.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Climbing Harness

A comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop-seat, or adjustable leg loops are recommended for managing layers and bathroom breaks in the mountains.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Triple-action Locking Carabiner

Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Locking Carabiner(s)

Used for clipping into anchors, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Non-locking Carabiner(s)

Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

General Mountaineering Crampons

10- or 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates for general mountaineering and glacier travel. Automatic, semi-automatic, or strap-on attachment depending on boot compatibility. Ensure crampons are compatible with your specific boots before your program.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Trekking Poles

We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Belay Device

A tube-style belay/rappel device that can accept a variety of rope diameters.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Tool Clip

An ice screw holder to attach to your harness for securely clipping ice screws or ice tools while climbing.  

Guide Pick™
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Technical Gear

Double-Length Sewn Nylon Sling

120 cm sewn sling (double-length runner) for anchor building and general climbing use.

Guide Pick™
Head

Helmet

A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Beanie

Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Ball Cap Or Sun Hat

A hat without a button on top will fit better and be more comfortable under a helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Buff or Neck Gaiter

A versatile neck gaiter or buff for head and neck protection in variable conditions.

Guide Pick™
Head

Headlamp

Start with fresh batteries and bring extra set(s) of batteries appropriate to the duration of the trip.

Guide Pick™
Head

Glacier Glasses

Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

Guide Pick™
Head

Goggles

Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Lightweight Gloves

Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Medium Weight Gloves

Insulated gloves for active climbing and moderate cold conditions. Should allow adequate dexterity for handling gear while providing warmth.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Heavy Weight Gloves Or Mittens

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency backups if you drop or lose a lighter-weight glove.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Upper Body Layering

We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.

Guide Pick™
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Upper Body

Lightweight Baselayer or Sun Hoody

A lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirt in synthetic or merino wool for sun protection and moisture management during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Lightweight Insulating Layer

One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Medium Weight Insulating Layer

An insulated jacket or softshell for warmth during low-output activity and extended rest breaks. Should fit over baselayers and midlayers, and under a shell.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Hardshell Jacket

A waterproof jacket with a hood for protection against wind, rain, and snow. Should fit comfortably over all insulating layers.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Down Parka With Attached Hood

An expedition-style down parka that extends below the waist with an insulated hood, designed to fit over all other layers. Worn primarily in camp, during rest breaks, and on summit day. Down fill recommended over synthetic.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Sports Bra

We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lower Body Layering

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

Guide Pick™
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Lower Body

Pairs Of Underwear

Non-cotton briefs or boxers.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lightweight Baselayer Bottoms

Lightweight synthetic or merino wool baselayer bottoms for moisture management and temperature regulation during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Climbing Pants

Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Hardshell Pants

Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Synthetic Insulated Pants

A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth on summit day and cold days at camps. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Light Weight Trekking Pants Or Shorts

A light weight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Single Or Double Mountaineering Boots

Boots are one of the most important pieces of mountaineering gear, and bringing the right pair is critical to your safety and success on Mt. Rainier. You will need one pair of boots for this climb, and the type of boot you wear will be dictated by freezing level. If the freezing level is below 10,000 feet, your guide will require the use of double boots. If the freezing level is above 10,000 feet, you may use either single or double boots. We consistently see freezing levels below 10,000 feet in April, May, June, and September, though periods of cold weather are not uncommon in July and August.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Double Mountaineering Boots

Insulated double boots with removable inner boots for cold, high-altitude mountaineering. Modern synthetic models are lighter and more comfortable than traditional plastic-shelled boots.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Single Mountaineering Boots

Insulated, full-shank, crampon-compatible leather or synthetic boots designed for general mountaineering. Lighter and more comfortable than double boots but with less insulation for extreme cold.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Hiking Boots

A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain. We recommend a waterproof, mid-top boot for better stability and ankle support.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Casual Shoes

Great for traveling and wearing around town or camp. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

Guide Pick™
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Feet

Gaiters

A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Pairs Of Socks

Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

Guide Pick™
First Aid & Medications

Medications

We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications you should have for high-altitude climbing. These medications are only used in emergency situations, and if someone is showing symptoms of HAPE or HACE, our standard protocol is for immediate descent. We do not take any of these medications prophylactically, and please talk with your guide before taking medications.

We require each climber to have the following medications:

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Antibiotics

Broad spectrum antibiotics for respiratory and gastrointestinal problems like Azithromycin (250mg tablets).

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Acetazolamide (diamox)

125mg tablets for the prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. A normal prescription is 125mg tablets, twice a day. Recommend 15 - 20 tablets.

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Dexamethasone

4mg tablets for the treatment of altitude illness. Recommend 12 tablets.

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Nifedipine

30mg slow-release tablets for the prevention or treatment of high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Recommend 8 - 10 tablets.

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Anti-diarrheal

Over the counter anti-diarrheal medication.

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First Aid & Medications

Small Personal First Aid Kit

Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, basic pain reliever, and personal medications.

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Personal Items

Meals & Snacks

You are responsible for providing your own meals and snack food in town and while on your program. See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

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Personal Items

Water Bottles

One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

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Personal Items

Stuff Sack(s)

Bring as needed.

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Personal Items

Large Garbage Bags

Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.

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Personal Items

Pocket Knife

A small folding knife or multi-tool for general utility and gear repairs in the field.

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Personal Items

Reading Material/journal

Books, magazines, or a journal for downtime at camp; a Kindle or similar e-reader is a practical alternative for longer expeditions where weight and bulk matter. Choose based on program length and personal preference.

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Personal Items

Personal Toiletries & Bag

Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

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Personal Items

Sunscreen

We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

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Personal Items

Lip Balm

We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

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Personal Items

Ear Plugs

Disposable or reusable ear plugs for sleeping in shared tent or hut accommodations.

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Personal Items

Spare Contact Lenses/ Eyeglasses

Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

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Personal Items

Pee Funnel (for Women)

Practice using this before coming on the climb!

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Personal Items

Pee Bottle

One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

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Personal Items

Camera

Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

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Personal Items

Power Bank

A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

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Personal Items

Travel Power Adapter

For charging personal electronics while traveling internationally.

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Travel Clothes

Travel Clothes

We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, sightseeing and dining.  

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Head

Sunglasses

If Glacier Glasses are not required, regular sunglasses will suffice on this program.

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Travel Documents

Passport

Valid for six months beyond your return date.

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Travel Documents

Copy Of Passport

The first two pages of your passport.

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Travel Documents

Copy Of Flight Itinerary

A printed or digital copy of your complete flight itinerary, including confirmation numbers and times, for reference during travel and check-in. Keep this easily accessible throughout your journey.

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Travel Documents

Extra Passport Photos

Additional passport-sized photographs beyond those required for your visa application, useful for visa extensions, permits, or emergency document replacement during international travel. Bring 4-6 extra photos.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Insurance

Purchase travel insurance.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Flights

Purchase airplane tickets.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Equipment

Reserve rental equipment.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Fitness

Be in the best shape of your life!

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Provided Equipment

Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: huts, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

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Personal Items

GPS Watch

A GPS-enabled watch with altimeter, barometer, and compass for navigation and weather monitoring. Many modern smart watches and dedicated outdoor watches offer this functionality.

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fuel for the mountain

On the Bolivia Expedition you will need a total of 20-30 snacks for the three mountains we attempt. These items are to supplement our provided food and for snacks on our mountain days.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner meals on the mountain are included as indicated in our Trip Itinerary. With the exception of hotel breakfasts, most restaurant meals are on your own. You are responsible for your own bottled water and drinks.

ABOUT YOUR MOUNTAIN MEALS

Mountain Lunches

We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb. Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Take care while shopping for your personal mountain snacks. Don't wait until the last minute. Make a list in advance and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer a large variety of gourmet and specialty foods, as well as your old, stand-by favorites.

Recommended snack items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins, etc), smoked salmon, salami, pepperoni, cheese (brie, camembert), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and drink mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, or Crystal Light).

Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store in Bolivia; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

Mountain Meals

To ensure our caloric input is optimal prior to the climb, and that your time in the mountains is even more memorable, we have camp cooks who will prepare fresh, hearty meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Breakfast

The breakfast menu on the mountain includes items such as omelets, porridge, bacon and eggs, French toast, fruit salad, pancakes, yogurt, and hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa).

While on the mountain, cold cereals with powdered milk and bagels with cream cheese are our go to breakfast options along with instant coffee and tea.

Dinner

The dinner menu at base camp is a two-course meal followed by dessert and hot drinks. Soups made with locally harvested quinoa, pasta, and vegetable stews are common first-course items. Our second-course typically consists of fresh chicken, pork, or trout, and often pizza. To provide sweetness to our meal, fruit salad, yogurt, and a variety of puddings made by our base camp cook are served for dessert. Various hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa) are also provided.

Travel, culture, & logistics

This page covers the practical details you’ll want to review before your trip, including travel logistics, entry requirements, local considerations, and required policies. Taking time to understand these details ahead of departure helps ensure a smoother experience once you’re on the ground and focused on the climb.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Travel Advisories / Warnings

Please confirm any current travel advisories / warnings as well as entry requirements with the U.S. Department of State.

Getting There

Several U.S. airlines offer daily flights to La Paz, Bolivia (LPB).

Flights departing Bolivia may be booked for the morning of Day 16.

Entry Requirements

A valid passport is required when traveling to Bolivia. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected return date.

We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact.

Proof of Yellow Fever Vaccination is required for traveling in Bolivia. You must present proof of yellow fever vaccination upon entry. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) provides a list of clinics where the vaccine may be available.

*Note: Yellow Fever vaccination is currently limited in the United States.  You may need to schedule your appointment well in advance.

Airport Arrival

Upon arrival at the La Paz airport please collect your baggage and proceed to the arrivals area. Take a taxi to our hotel.

In-Country Transportation

The provided ground transportation in Bolivia as stated in the itinerary is via private vehicle.

Immunizations & Travel Medicine

Yellow Fever Vaccination is required for entry to Bolivia. You must present proof of yellow fever vaccination upon entry. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) provides a list of clinics where the vaccine may be available.

*Note: Yellow Fever vaccination is currently limited in the United States.  You may need to schedule your appointment well in advance.

For the most current information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention.

Traveler's Health

Travelers may suffer from upset stomachs when in foreign countries. There are some basic rules, however, that can help keep you healthy.

  • Hygiene - It is important that you wash your hands thoroughly before meals and after using the restroom. If water is not available for washing, we recommend using a hand sanitizer.
  • Water - The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe excess moisture from drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
  • Food - If it is cooked, boiled, or can be peeled, you can usually eat it. Salads and fruits should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Be wary of ice cream and shellfish. Always avoid any undercooked meat.

Medical Emergencies

Excellent care for minor illnesses and injuries is readily available. In the event of more serious illnesses or injuries, we recommend transport to any of the Level 1 care centers in La Paz.

ADDITIONAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

Bolivia Country Facts

Bolivia, in western-central South America, is a land-locked country that borders Brazil to the north and east, Paraguay to the southeast and Argentina to the south, Chile to the southwest, and Peru to the northwest. One-third of Bolivia is made up of the Andes mountain range, while the Eastern Lowlands reach into the Amazon basin.

Bolivia is a democratic republic and is a developing economy with a poverty level near 53%. Its main economic activities include agriculture, forestry, fishing, mining, and manufacturing goods. Bolivia is rich in minerals, particularly tin.

Bolivia is a multi-ethnic, multicultural country. Amerindians, Mestizos, Europeans, Asians, and Africans make up significant portions of the populations, however traditions of racial and social segregation, introduced by spanish colonialism, have carried on in the modern day. Spanish is the official and most widely spoken language, though 36 indigenous languages have official status as well.

Bolivia's constitutional capital is located in the city of Sucre, relatively remote as an economic center, and consequently the seat of govenment resides in La Paz. La Paz is the third largest city in Bolivia, and sits in a bowl surrounded by the high mountains of the altiplano. The city of La Paz has a population just less than 900,000 residents (as of 2008), but with the nearby cities of El Alto (the location of the airport) and Viacha, is a metropolitan center witha  population of 2.3 million, making it the largest urban center in Bolivia.

The mountainous regions of Bolivia were part of the Incan Empire, with the northern and eastern lowlands inhabited by independant tribes. The spanish conquistadors arrived from Cuzco and Asuncion in Peru in the 16th century, beginning a period of colonization in which Bolivia was known as Upper Peru. Much of Spain's empire was built on the silver extracted from Bolivian mines. 1809 marked the first call for independance the beginning of a 16 year war led by Simon Bolivar which resulted in the formation of the republic. Frequent unrest and wars with its neighbors, as well as a series of miliatary dictatorships in the 20th century that were propped up by the American government, have led to periods of turmoil in Bolivia. Since 2005 Bolivia has been governed under a series of socialist administrations were elected with an absolute majority in democratic elections, and he was reelected in 2009. He remains the current president.

Weather

The weather in the altiplano region of Bolivia varies drastically, with day-time temperatures reaching the mid seventies and night time temperatures dropping to just above freezing. Snow and nightly frosts occur during every month of the year. We recommend bringing a variety of clothing, and having a down jacket on the airplane, as many flights arrive at night, when termpatures can be quite cold. For current weather conditions, check Weather Underground.

Cultural Etiquette

The people of Bolivia are generally reserved. Do not be surprised if people in the street to not greet you with a smile. Although it is not expected that we dress formally, we should dress modestly. Casual and comfortable clothing is suggested along with comfortable shoes. Showing expensive cameras, watches, jewelry, etc. is considered unseemly and may attract unwanted attention.

When entering a shop or home, politely use a greeting such as buenos días (good day), buenas tardes (good afternoon), buenas noches (good night). Similarly, upon leaving, even if you've had only minimal contact, say adios (goodbye) or hasta luego (see you later).

On city streets, children selling small items and shining shoes can be quite persistent. Some ask directly for money. To keep from being hassled, a polite but firm "No, gracias" is generally sufficient.

It is expected that you engage in some degree of bargaining for market or street purchases. This is fun, and should be taken lightly.

Electricity

Electricity in Bolivia is 220 Volts and 60 Hertz. Carry a universal convertor and plug adaptor travel kit.

Money

Bolivia's official currency is the boliviano (BOL). Check a financial newspaper or www.xe.com for the current exchange rate prior to departure.

We suggest bringing $500 - $700 total for personal spending money including restaurant meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.

The airport exchange counters offer a good rate for changing money, and charge a very modest ($1.50) exchange fee. It is relatively easy to change BOL to back to USD as well. Credit cards are not widely accepted.

Everyone has a preferred way to carry money. Some use money belts, others have hidden pockets. Whatever you do, be aware of pickpockets and thieves in any area which caters to tourists.

Tipping

Everyone approaches tipping a little differently. Whether or not a person tips, and how much, is completely dependent upon the individual; here are some suggested tipping guidelines for your trip.

Local waiters, drivers, and other service personnel expect to be tipped. Ten to fifteen percent is standard. Some restaurants and hotels add a 10% service fee to bills in which case, no further tip is required.

Support Staff Tip Pool: We recommend that each climber contribute $100 to the Tip Pool. This is collected at the beginning of the trip and will cover group tips for all our support and mountain staff throughout the program.

Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.

Resources

Fodor's and other travel service websites are readily available and describe Bolivia travel and facts.

Expedition Policies

The following policies are applicable for this expedition.

INCLUDED

  • RMI Leadership
  • Hotel accommodations as indicated in the itinerary, based on double occupancy*
  • All group transportation in country as indicated in the itinerary
  • All group cooking, trekking, camping, and climbing equipment

* Accommodations are based on double occupancy.  A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those occupying single accommodations by choice or circumstance. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure.

NOT INCLUDED

  • International airfare
  • Travel insurance, medical evacuation insurance and security evacuation insurance
  • Passport fees
  • Vaccination fees (Yellow Fever is required)
  • Excess baggage fees and departure taxes
  • Meals not included in the itinerary
  • Bottled water and personal drinks
  • Support Staff Tip Pool (we suggest $100 per person)
  • Customary guide gratuities
  • Additional room charges including laundry service and other personal expenses
  • Hotel accommodations not indicated in the itinerary
  • Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)

PAYMENTS

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $1,500 per person secures your reservation.

  • Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, or check from a U.S. bank.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

  • Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
  • Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions. 

Cancellation

The deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

  • Cancellations must be submitted in writing. Once received, the following policy applies:
    • Cancellations made 120 or more days before the program start date will forfeit the deposit.
    • Cancellations made less than 120 days before the program start date will not receive refunds or credits.

We do not offer refunds. Please remember this before registering for this program. Due to the time-sensitive nature of this program, no exceptions will be made to the cancellation policy.

Risk Management Policy

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

PARTICIPANT RESPONSIBILITIES

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

  • Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
  • Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
  • Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
  • Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
  • Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Show respect for the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
  • Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
  • Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
  • Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotels, meals, etc.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age Requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media.

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes.

Here are the key points:

  1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
  2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
  3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
  4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them.
  5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
  6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
  7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

Summit Attempt Policy

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

GENERAL POLICIES

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to, increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same- gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

Frequently Asked Questions

Bolivia's Cordillera Real is one of the world's premier high-altitude climbing destinations, and the questions climbers ask most often reflect the seriousness of the objectives and the richness of the cultural experience surrounding them. The answers below address how the expedition operates across three summit objectives, what to expect on each peak, and how to prepare for sixteen days of high-altitude alpine climbing in Bolivia.

The Climbs

What is the purpose of the Condoriri Group ascent?

The Condoriri Group serves as the technical and acclimatization foundation for the expedition. The ascent of Pequeño Alpamayo via Tarija introduces steep glacier climbing, moderate neve and ice climbing, and high-altitude movement before the team moves to Huayna Potosi and Illimani. Arriving at the main objectives with altitude exposure and technical confidence from Condoriri directly improves performance on the harder peaks ahead.

What is a typical summit day like on Huayna Potosi?

Huayna Potosi involves contouring around the mountain's flanks and overcoming sections of steep ice and rock on the way to the summit at 19,974 feet. The terrain is technically demanding and the route requires confident crampon technique and ice climbing ability. Summit day is a long and serious effort with spectacular views of the Bolivian Altiplano from the top.

What is a typical summit day like on Illimani?

Illimani's summit day begins with an early alpine start from high camp at 17,997 feet. The route involves exposed ridge climbing and steep faces before reaching the broad summit at 21,122 feet. Round trip from high camp takes approximately ten to twelve hours. The descent returns to Base Camp the same day.

How does Pequeño Alpamayo compare to the main objectives?

Pequeño Alpamayo is a technically engaging climb that includes a few pitches of moderate neve or ice climbing above the Tarija summit. It is less demanding than Huayna Potosi or Illimani in terms of altitude but serves as an important introduction to the steeper terrain the team will encounter on the main objectives.

What is the pace like?

The pace varies depending on whether the team is on an approach, a carry day, or a summit push. Overall, guides set a steady pace appropriate to the day's demands and the team's condition. Summit days are long and the terrain is serious, so efficiency and fitness matter throughout.

What is the food like on the mountain?

Camp cooks prepare fresh, hearty meals at Base Camp, including breakfast items such as omelets, porridge, bacon and eggs, French toast, and pancakes, and dinners featuring locally harvested quinoa soups, pasta, vegetable stews, fresh chicken, pork, or trout, and desserts including fruit salad and puddings. On the mountain, cold cereals, bagels, and instant hot drinks are the standard breakfast. Climbers should bring 20 to 30 personal snacks to supplement provided food across the three objectives.

Is the water safe to drink?

We strongly advise against drinking tap water in Bolivia. Bottled water is readily available and should be used for all drinking throughout the program.

Safety and Travel

Do I need a visa to travel to Bolivia?

Entry requirements for Bolivia vary by nationality. US citizens should check current entry requirements with the US Department of State before departure. A valid passport is required and must be valid for at least six months beyond your expected return date.

Is a Yellow Fever vaccination required?

Yes. Proof of Yellow Fever vaccination is required for entry to Bolivia. You must present proof upon arrival. Yellow Fever vaccination is currently limited in the United States, so scheduling your appointment well in advance is strongly recommended. The CDC provides a list of clinics where the vaccine may be available.

Is travel insurance required?

Yes. Travel insurance is required for this program. Your policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, travel delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation. Confirm that your policy covers high-altitude mountaineering and climbing activities above 20,000 feet before purchasing. RMI recommends Travelex and Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance as options designed for adventure travelers.

Is it safe to travel in Bolivia?

RMI takes a professional approach to in-country risk management. We use private vehicles rather than public transportation, travel in groups, follow established tourist routes, and work with experienced local staff familiar with the language, roads, and customs. We recommend reviewing current travel advisories with the US Department of State before departure.

What vaccinations or health precautions should I consider?

Yellow Fever vaccination is required for entry. For all other recommendations, consult your doctor or a travel medicine clinic well in advance of departure and refer to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention for current guidance.

Staying Connected

How will I be able to stay connected with those at home?

Communication options are limited in the mountains. In La Paz, cell service and WiFi are widely available. On the mountain, RMI guides carry satellite phones for emergency use. Climbers wishing to make personal calls from the mountains should arrange their own satellite phone.

Do iPhones function well at high altitude?

Yes, though cold temperatures can significantly impact battery life at extreme altitude. We recommend bringing a personal battery pack and keeping devices warm when not in use.

Money and Logistics

What currency is used in Bolivia?

Bolivia's official currency is the boliviano (BOL). Credit cards are not widely accepted, so cash is essential. The airport exchange counters offer a good rate and charge a modest exchange fee. We recommend budgeting $500 to $700 total for personal spending including meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.

How much should I tip?

Local waiters, drivers, and service personnel typically expect ten to fifteen percent. We recommend each participant contribute $100 to the Support Staff Tip Pool at the beginning of the trip to cover group tips for local support and mountain staff. Guide gratuities are at your discretion and typically average ten to fifteen percent of the program cost for excellent service.

What is the electricity situation in Bolivia?

Bolivia uses 220 volts at 60 hertz. US travelers will need a universal converter and plug adapter travel kit.

Reviews

Climbers rated RMI with an average of 5 stars across 0 ratings

Climber reviews of the Illimani and Huayna Potosi program consistently reflect the reward of back-to-back Bolivian summits at high altitude. Participants frequently highlight the skill and professionalism of the RMI guides, the steady acclimatization that prepares the team for both peaks, and the progression from Huayna Potosi to the greater challenge of Illimani. For many climbers, the program stands out as a memorable step into high-altitude expedition climbing in the Andes.

August 27, 2024

Illimani and Huayna Potosi

Great itinerary - good schedule to acclimatize and climb with appropriate rest days.

Allison M

August 23, 2024

Illimani and Huayna Potosi

Climbing in Bolivia

Rick H