Illimani and Huayna Potosi
Chock full of high altitude peaks of all difficulties, Bolivia's Cordillera Real is the perfect expedition for the experienced high altitude climber, as well as an excellent training ground for the world's greater ranges. The imposing peaks of Huayna Potosi (19,979') and Illimani (21,122') offer both challenge and beauty in a unique setting.
EXPEDITION HIGHLIGHTS
- Climb multiple expedition style peaks in a single trip.
- A mini expedition to the Condoriri Group is included in the itinerary to train specifically for higher elevations and Bolivia's steep terrain.
- Benefit from first class service including camp cooks, porters, mules, and refugios to keep packs light and the climbing enjoyable.
- Enjoy our exceptional 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio during the expedition benefitting from the experience, expertise, and tutelage of RMI's renowned guides.
- Take part in an RMI adventure and see why we continue to set the standard in guiding excellence.
Our trip begins in the high altitude city of La Paz. Tucked into a bowl beneath Bolivia's Altiplano and surrounded by enormous peaks, La Paz is a seamless mix of ancient Incan culture and more modern Latin influences. With the city center at nearly 12,000 feet, our acclimatization routine begins with our first step out of the airport.
After a day playing tourist in La Paz and overcoming jet lag, we venture overland to the famous Lake Titicaca and visit Isla del Sol. With a few days of acclimatization under our belts, we continue on to the Condoriri group to train and attempt our first peak.
The two main objectives of the trip, Huayna Potosi (19,974') and Illimani (21,122'), offer excellent alpine climbing for experienced climbers looking to push themselves.
Both climbs involve steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, crampon techniques, ice axe arrest and steep climbing technique is required. A review of these mountaineering techniques is built into the itinerary in the Condoriri Group. This climb is ideal for alpinists looking to build additional climbing skills, expose themselves to technical terrain at high elevation, and take part in a culturally rich international climbing expedition.
THE RMI DIFFERENCE
RMI was established in 1969 and is one of America's oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Denali and leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. Our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips and we work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader. Our comprehensive trip preparation takes care of the details for you, from hotels to airport transfers, so that you can focus on preparing for the climb instead of the distraction that comes with coordinating logistics.
Our Cordillera Real expedition is led by RMI's top guides, who bring with them years of climbing experience on mountains all over the world, from the Andes to the Alaska Range to the Himalayas. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly trained RMI Guide held to our standards cannot be understated.
Our Cordillera Real expedition maintains a 2:1 climber to guide ratio to provide the important individual attention needed during these demanding climbs.
We use RMI's own climbing equipment brought from the U.S., ensuring that our expedition standards of safety, quality, and reliability are met. We've chosen our hotels and meals to keep our team comfortable, happy, and healthy throughout the climb. We use private vehicles to travel to the mountains, minimizing our time spent on the road and allowing us safer travel. Our exceptional focus on detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures are what make our programs truly memorable.
SAFETY
Safety has always been RMI's top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. RMI's experienced team of guides focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. We apply the same strict standards of safety we bring to the Alaska and the Himalayas to our climbs in Bolivia. Careful planning, precise ascent profiles, daily weather forecasts, and diligent attention are taken as we venture to high altitudes. Comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication equipment are carried with the team throughout the trip.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
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Upcoming Climbs
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- May 13, 2022 Guide: Andy Bond
- Sign Up
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- Price
- $6100
- Deposit
- $1500
- Duration
- 16 days
- Difficulty
- Level 4
- Type
- Mountaineering
Day 1
TRAVEL DAY
Depart U.S.A. Travel to La Paz, Bolivia (LPB) typically takes 8 - 16 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times.
Day 2
ARRIVE & EXPLORE LA PAZ • 11,942' | 3,640m
Flights often arrive between midnight and 7 am. Upon arrival in La Paz, take a taxi to our hotel. Today we explore La Paz, visiting such attractions as the Witches Market (Mercado de Brujas) and the Mira Mira City Overlook. We will have an evening orientation meeting to prepare for the days ahead. Overnight in La Paz. (B)
Day 3
COPACABANA • 12,600' | 3,840m
A morning bus ride brings us to the resort town of Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest lake. We catch a boat from a nearby harbor to the Isla del Sol where we can enjoy the lake and explore the town. Overnight on the Isla del Sol. (B, L)
Day 4
ISLA DEL SOL • 12,800' | 3,901m
The island contains many ruins from the era of the Inca, which we will explore as we hike around the area, stretching our legs and lungs. Overnight on the Isla del Sol. (B, L, D)
Day 5
CONDORIRI BASE CAMP • 15,200' | 4,633M
We leave Lake Titicaca and turn our attention to the mountains. We drive to the Condoriri Group and begin the trek. We establish Base Camp and enjoy the spectacular scenery and looming mountains. (B, L, D)
Day 6
CONDORIRI BASE CAMP • 15,200' | 4,633m
We venture to the toe of the glacier to review basic mountaineering techniques. We return to camp in the early afternoon in anticipation of an early bedtime and alpine start. (B, L, D)
Day 7
CONDORIRI GROUP SUMMIT • 17,150' | 5,227M
A middle of the night launch give us the chance to approach our first summit around day break. We return to our base camp for overnight. (B, L, D)
Day 8
HUANYA POTOSI BASE CAMP • 15,200' | 4,633m
After breakfast we break down camp and drive to Huayna Potosi Base Camp. Overnight at Refugio Casa Blanca. (B, L, D)
Day 9
REFUGIO LAS ROCAS • 16,830' | 5,130m
We take a casual morning to recover from our previous summit attempt. We ascend to Rocas High Camp. Overnight in Refugio. (B, L, D)
Day 10
HUAYNA POTOSI SUMMIT DAY (19,974') • 11,942' | 3,640m
We contour around the flanks of Huayna Potosi, overcoming sections of steep ice and rock on our way to a spectacular summit vista. We return to La Paz in the evening and enjoy an evening in town. (B, L)
Day 11
REST DAY
Today we relax and recover from previous summit attempts. We will recharge and refuel as we prepare for our climb of Illimani, our last objective of the trip. (B, L)
Day 12
ILLIMANI BASE CAMP • 15,454' | 4,710M
We rise early in the morning and load our gear into 4x4's to approach Illimani. After traversing stunning mountain roads, we arrive in Pinaya where we hire mules to carry our gear to base camp. (B, L, D).
Day 13
NIDO DE CONDORES • 17,997' | 5,485M
After enjoying beautiful views of La Paz at night from our base camp, we pack up and climb to our high camp at the Condor's Nest (Nido de Condores). This high desolate perch affords us unparalleled views of the climbing route and breathtaking valleys below. (B, L, D)
Day 14
ILLIMANI SUMMIT DAY (21,122') • 15,454' | 4,710M
Gentle ridge walking and steep exposed faces lead us to the broad summit of the Illimani. Round trip to the summit and back to camp should take 10 - 12 hours. We continue our descent to Base Camp and spend our last night in the mountains. (B, L, D)
Day 15
RETURN TO LA PAZ • 11,942' | 3,640M
After a relaxing breakfast, we pack up camp, descend to the trail head and make the drive back to La Paz. We will end the day with our team celebration dinner. Overnight in La Paz. (B, L)
Day 16
TRAVEL
We transfer to the airport for morning flights back to the U.S. (B)
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send email to etravel@cox.net.
Travel Insurance
Travel insurance is required for this trip. Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.
Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be confusing. To help make the process straightforward, we have partnered with Ripcord Insurance because their policies are specifically designed for adventure travel and offer coverage for remote areas, and for activities like mountaineering, climbing, skiing, and trekking, without any altitude restrictions.
The most comprehensive coverage available is Cancel For Any Reason. This policy must be purchased within 14 days of making the first payment towards your program. While this coverage is more expensive, it allows you to cancel for any reason no less than 48 hours before your departure date and still receive a refund of up to 75% of your costs.
When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:
- Read the fine print. Travel Insurance will refund you when canceling for a covered reason for any non-refundable cancellation fees. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the "covered reasons."
- Purchase coverage for Cancel For Any Reason within 14 days of making the first deposit payment towards your program.
- Confirm that your activity is a covered “activity.” Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), for activities that go above certain elevations, or for activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an "Adventure" or "Sports" package to cover your activity.
- Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is travel insurance designed for adventurers, including the best evacuation and rescue services available.
Benefits are tailored for adventurers and include:
- Rescue and evacuation from the point of illness or emergency to your home hospital of choice.
- Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, Accidental Death & Dismemberment (AD&D) and more.
- Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims.
- 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses and military veterans.
- Security extraction in case of unexpected dangerous and chaotic events.
- Cancel For Any Reason (CFAR) options and pre-existing condition waiver within 14 days of your initial trip deposit.
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word. Whether it’s reimbursing you for a cancelled trip, paying your travel medical bills or evacuating you home in an emergency, Ripcord takes the worry out of your travel.
Travel Advisories / Warnings
Please confirm any current travel advisories / warnings as well as entry requirements with the U.S. Department of State.
Getting There
Several U.S. airlines offer daily flights to La Paz, Bolivia (LPB).
Flights departing Bolivia may be booked for the morning of Day 16.
Entry Requirements
A valid passport is required when traveling to Bolivia. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected return date.
We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact.
Proof of Yellow Fever Vaccination is required for traveling in Bolivia. You must present proof of yellow fever vaccination upon entry. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) provides a list of clinics where the vaccine may be available.
*Note: Yellow Fever vaccination is currently limited in the United States. You may need to schedule your appointment well in advance.
Airport Arrival
Upon arrival at the La Paz airport please collect your baggage and proceed to the arrivals area. Take a taxi to our hotel.
In-Country Transportation
The provided ground transportation in Bolivia as stated in the itinerary is via private vehicle.
Immunizations & Travel Medicine
Yellow Fever Vaccination is required for entry to Bolivia. You must present proof of yellow fever vaccination upon entry. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) provides a list of clinics where the vaccine may be available.
*Note: Yellow Fever vaccination is currently limited in the United States. You may need to schedule your appointment well in advance.
For the most current information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention.
Traveler's Health
Travelers may suffer from upset stomachs when in foreign countries. There are some basic rules, however, that can help keep you healthy.
- Hygiene - It is important that you wash your hands thoroughly before meals and after using the restroom. If water is not available for washing, we recommend using a hand sanitizer.
- Water - The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe excess moisture from drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
- Food - If it is cooked, boiled, or can be peeled, you can usually eat it. Salads and fruits should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Be wary of ice cream and shellfish. Always avoid any undercooked meat.
Medical Emergencies
Excellent care for minor illnesses and injuries is readily available. In the event of more serious illnesses or injuries, we recommend transport to any of the Level 1 care centers in La Paz.
Bolivia Country Facts
Bolivia, in western-central South America, is a land-locked country that borders Brazil to the north and east, Paraguay to the southeast and Argentina to the south, Chile to the southwest, and Peru to the northwest. One-third of Bolivia is made up of the Andes mountain range, while the Eastern Lowlands reach into the Amazon basin.
Bolivia is a democratic republic and is a developing economy with a poverty level near 53%. Its main economic activities include agriculture, forestry, fishing, mining, and manufacturing goods. Bolivia is rich in minerals, particularly tin.
Bolivia is a multi-ethnic, multicultural country. Amerindians, Mestizos, Europeans, Asians, and Africans make up significant portions of the populations, however traditions of racial and social segregation, introduced by spanish colonialism, have carried on in the modern day. Spanish is the official and most widely spoken language, though 36 indigenous languages have official status as well.
Bolivia's constitutional capital is located in the city of Sucre, relatively remote as an economic center, and consequently the seat of govenment resides in La Paz. La Paz is the third largest city in Bolivia, and sits in a bowl surrounded by the high mountains of the altiplano. The city of La Paz has a population just less than 900,000 residents (as of 2008), but with the nearby cities of El Alto (the location of the airport) and Viacha, is a metropolitan center witha population of 2.3 million, making it the largest urban center in Bolivia.
The mountainous regions of Bolivia were part of the Incan Empire, with the northern and eastern lowlands inhabited by independant tribes. The spanish conquistadors arrived from Cuzco and Asuncion in Peru in the 16th century, beginning a period of colonization in which Bolivia was known as Upper Peru. Much of Spain's empire was built on the silver extracted from Bolivian mines. 1809 marked the first call for independance the beginning of a 16 year war led by Simon Bolivar which resulted in the formation of the republic. Frequent unrest and wars with its neighbors, as well as a series of miliatary dictatorships in the 20th century that were propped up by the American government, have led to periods of turmoil in Bolivia. In 2005, President Evo Morales and his socialist party were elected with an absolute majority in democratic elections, and he was reelected in 2009. He remains the current president.
Weather
The weather in the altiplano region of Bolivia varies drastically, with day-time temperatures reaching the mid seventies and night time temperatures dropping to just above freezing. Snow and nightly frosts occur during every month of the year. We recommend bringing a variety of clothing, and having a down jacket on the airplane, as many flights arrive at night, when termpatures can be quite cold. For current weather conditions, check Weather Underground.
Cultural Etiquette
The people of Bolivia are generally reserved. Do not be surprised if people in the street to not greet you with a smile. Although it is not expected that we dress formally, we should dress modestly. Casual and comfortable clothing is suggested along with comfortable shoes. Showing expensive cameras, watches, jewelry, etc. is considered unseemly and may attract unwanted attention.
When entering a shop or home, politely use a greeting such as buenos días (good day), buenas tardes (good afternoon), buenas noches (good night). Similarly, upon leaving, even if you've had only minimal contact, say adios (goodbye) or hasta luego (see you later).
On city streets, children selling small items and shining shoes can be quite persistent. Some ask directly for money. To keep from being hassled, a polite but firm "No, gracias" is generally sufficient.
It is expected that you engage in some degree of bargaining for market or street purchases. This is fun, and should be taken lightly.
Electricity
Electricity in Bolivia is 220 Volts and 60 Hertz. Carry a universal convertor and plug adaptor travel kit.
Money
Bolivia's official currency is the boliviano (BOL). Check a financial newspaper or www.xe.com for the current exchange rate prior to departure.
We suggest bringing $500 - $700 total for personal spending money including restaurant meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.
The airport exchange counters offer a good rate for changing money, and charge a very modest ($1.50) exchange fee. It is relatively easy to change BOL to back to USD as well. Credit cards are not widely accepted.
Everyone has a preferred way to carry money. Some use money belts, others have hidden pockets. Whatever you do, be aware of pickpockets and thieves in any area which caters to tourists.
Tipping
Everyone approaches tipping a little differently. Whether or not a person tips, and how much, is completely dependent upon the individual; here are some suggested tipping guidelines for your trip.
Local waiters, drivers, and other service personnel expect to be tipped. Ten to fifteen percent is standard. Some restaurants and hotels add a 10% service fee to bills in which case, no further tip is required.
Support Staff Tip Pool: We recommend that each climber contribute $100 to the Tip Pool. This is collected at the beginning of the trip and will cover group tips for all our support and mountain staff throughout the program.
Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.
Resources
Fodor's and other travel service websites are readily available and describe Bolivia travel and facts.
Qualifications
This trip is open to all individuals in excellent physical condition with previous climbing experience. Prior knowledge and experience with rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest is required. It is a great first trip to altitudes above 15,000'.
Our experience shows that individuals perform better and enjoy the adventure more if they have a high degree of fitness and comfort with basic mountaineering skills. This program’s high altitude and snowy terrain contribute to make this a very worthwhile challenge.
Qualifying Programs
Recommended climbing experiences prior to the Cordillera Real Expedition include:
Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
Ecuador Seminar - Chimborazo
Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru
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Get In The Best Shape Of Your Life
And Then Go
Climb A MountainCreate A Fitness And Training Program
Physical Fitness Training
Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.
- Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
- Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
- Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.
For the Cordillera Real Expedition, you are preparing for:
- Hiking and climbing with a 20-25 lb load
- 10+ hour summit days
- Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility
Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!
Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.
Acclimatization
The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude.
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize as you ascend. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.
Finally, physical performance and acclimatization are also related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are all key factors in an individual’s success on an expedition such as this.
What You’ll Need
A list of required personal equipment accompanies every RMI program, and the thought process behind each item is much greater than simply “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.” The list for your program takes into account factors such as: seasonality, route conditions, weather, elevation and more. As such, this list is framed within the broadest of contexts and is dynamic by its very nature. Therefore, certain variables (additions and/or subtractions) are inherent within such an all-encompassing list. We make every effort to recommend only top of the line clothing and technical gear and it is never our intention for you to buy or rent unnecessary gear.
The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.
RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item, thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check, when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.
Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list closely so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!
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Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering when they use code RMI2021 at checkout. This offer excludes sale items, rentals, meal packages, and Feathered Friends.
Shop Your Equipment List // Rent new equipment for your climb
Equipment List
Pack & Travel
Guide Pick™
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2 DUFFEL BAG(S)
120+ liter bag(s) made of tough material with rugged zippers.
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LUGGAGE LOCKS
Bring as needed. Make sure these are TSA-compliant.
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50+ LITER BACKPACK
Your backpack should be large enough to carry all of your personal gear, food and water, plus a portion of group gear. You will not need a separate summit pack.
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DAY PACK
A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on or while sightseeing.
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Sleeping Bag & Pad
Guide Pick™
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SLEEPING BAG
We recommend a bag rated between 20° and 0° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a 0° F bag.
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COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG
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INFLATABLE SLEEPING PAD
A full-length inflatable pad.
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CLOSED FOAM SLEEPING PAD
A full-length closed cell foam pad, used in combination with the inflatable sleeping pad.
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Technical Gear
Guide Pick™
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ICE AXE
The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
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HYBRID ICE AXE WITH HAMMER
A 50 - 55 cm hybrid ice axe with hammer for steep terrain.
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CLIMBING HARNESS
We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.
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1 TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER
Used for clipping into the climbing rope.
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2 LOCKING CARABINER(S)
Used for clipping into anchors, etc.
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3 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)
Used for pack ditch loop, etc.
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CRAMPONS
12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates designed for general mountaineering use.
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TREKKING POLES
We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.
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24 ' ACCESSORY CORD
6 mm cordelette in one continuous length.
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15 ' ACCESSORY CORD
7 mm cordelette in one continuous length.
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Head
Guide Pick™
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HELMET
A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.
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WARM HAT
Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
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BALL CAP OR SUN HAT
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BUFF
A Buff provides versitile head and neck protection. A neck gaiter is also acceptable.
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HEADLAMP
Start with fresh batteries and bring extra set(s) of batteries appropriate to the duration of the trip.
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GLACIER GLASSES
Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.
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GOGGLES
Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.
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Hands
Guide Pick™
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Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.
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LIGHTWEIGHT GLOVES
Lightweight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.
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MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVES
Wind- and water-resistant, insulated mountain gloves.
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HEAVY WEIGHT GLOVES OR MITTENS
Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency backups if you drop or lose a lighter-weight glove.
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Upper Body
Guide Pick™
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We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.
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LIGHTWEIGHT BASELAYER OR SUN HOODY
Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Lighweight, light-colored, hooded baselayers (sun hoodys) are highly recommended for sun protection.
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LIGHTWEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal lightweight insulating layer.
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MEDIUM WEIGHT INSULATING LAYER
A down, synthetic, or softshell hoody makes a great midlayer.
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RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL)
An uninsulated, waterproof shell jacket with hood.
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INSULATED PARKA WITH HOOD
Your expedition-style heavy parka must extend below the waist, have an insulated hood, and be able to fit over the rest of your upper body layers. While the parka is worn primarily at rest breaks on summit day, it also serves as an emergency garment if needed. We recommend down rather than synthetic fill.
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SPORTS BRA
We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.
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Lower Body
Guide Pick™
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We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.
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1 - 3 PAIRS OF UNDERWEAR
Non-cotton briefs or boxers.
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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER
Synthetic or wool.
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SOFTSHELL CLIMBING PANTS
Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.
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RAIN PANTS (HARD SHELL)
Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.
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LIGHTWEIGHT TREKKING PANTS OR SHORTS
A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.
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Feet
Guide Pick™
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SINGLE OR DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS
We recommend modern hybrid double boots for this climb because they provide the best balance of weight, comfort, and insulation. Insulated single mountaineering boots are also adaquate but might result in cold feet. Bring one pair of chemical foot wamers per summit day if you are using single mountaineering boots.
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SINGLE BOOTS: Insulated, full-shank, and crampon-compatible leather or synthetic boots designed for mountaineering. Single boots tend to be lighter and more comfortable than double boots at the expense of warmth.
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DOUBLE BOOTS: Insulated double boots designed for mountaineering. Plastic-shelled models are acceptable, though modern synthetic models are lighter and more comfortable.
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HIKING BOOTS
A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain. We recommend a waterproof, mid-top boot for better stability and ankle support.
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CASUAL SHOES
Great for traveling and wearing around town or camp. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.
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GAITERS
A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.
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3 PAIRS OF SOCKS
Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.
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Personal Items
Guide Pick™
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MEALS & SNACKS
See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.
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BOWL
Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.
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INSULATED MUG
Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommed a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills.
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SPOON OR SPORK
A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.
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2 WATER BOTTLES
One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).
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STUFF SACK(S)
Bring as needed.
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2 - 3 LARGE GARBAGE BAGS
Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a a waterproof pack liner.
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POCKETKNIFE
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READING MATERIAL/JOURNAL (OPTIONAL)
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PERSONAL TOILETRIES & BAG
Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.
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SUNSCREEN
We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.
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LIP BALM
We recommend SPF 15 or higher.
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EAR PLUGS
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SPARE CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES (OPTIONAL)
Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.
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PEE FUNNEL (FOR WOMEN)
Practice using this before coming on the climb!
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PEE BOTTLE (OPTIONAL)
One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.
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CAMERA (OPTIONAL)
Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.
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POWER BANK (OPTIONAL)
A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.
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TRAVEL POWER ADAPTER
For charging personal electronics while traveling internationally.
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First Aid & Medications
Guide Pick™
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SMALL PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT
Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, cough drops, basic painkillers, an antacid, an anti-diarrheal, and personal medications.
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We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications make sense to have for remote international travel and/or high altitude climbing. At minimum, we require the following:
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ANTIBIOTICS
Broad spectrum antibiotics like Ciprofloxacin (500mg tablets), Metronidazole, and Azithromycin (250mg tablets).
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ACETAZOLAMIDE (DIAMOX)
125mg tablets for prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness.
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DEXAMETHAZONE
4mg tablets for treatment of altitude illness.
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Travel Clothes
Guide Pick™
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TRAVEL CLOTHES
We recommend bringing a selection of comfortable clothing to wear while traveling as well as pre- and post-trip.
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SUNGLASSES
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Travel Documents
Guide Pick™
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PASSPORT
Valid for six months beyond your return date.
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COPY OF PASSPORT
The first two pages of your passport.
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COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY
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EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS
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Pre-Trip Checklist
Guide Pick™
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Purchase travel insurance.
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Purchase airplane tickets.
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Reserve rental equipment.
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Be in the best shape of your life!
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Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: huts, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).
Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.
Meals
On Huayna Potosi and Illimani you will need 9 days of mountain snacks. All of these items should weigh 4 - 5 lb. These items are to supplement our provided food and for snacks on your summit days.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner meals on the mountain are included as indicated in our Trip Itinerary. With the exception of hotel breakfasts, most restaurant meals are on your own. You are responsible for your own bottled water and drinks.
Mountain Lunches
We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb. Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.
The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.
Take care while shopping for your personal mountain snacks. Don't wait until the last minute. Make a list in advance and add to it as you generate and remember more ideas. Try to shop at stores that offer a large variety of gourmet and specialty foods, as well as your old, stand-by favorites.
Recommended snack items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins, etc), smoked salmon, salami, pepperoni, cheese (brie, camembert), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and drink mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, or Crystal Light).
Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store in Bolivia; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.
Mountain Meals
To ensure our caloric input is optimal prior to the climb, and that your time in the mountains is even more memorable, we have camp cooks who will prepare fresh, hearty meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Breakfast
The breakfast menu at base camp includes items such as omelets, porridge, bacon and eggs, French toast, pancakes, yogurt, and hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa).
While on the mountain, cold cereals with powdered milk and bagels with cream cheese are our go to breakfast options along with instant coffee and tea.
Dinner
The dinner menu at base camp is a two-course meal followed by dessert and hot drinks. Soups made with locally harvested quinoa, pasta, and vegetable stews are common first-course items. Our second-course typically consists of fresh chicken, pork, or trout, and often pizza. To provide sweetness to our meal, fruit salad, yogurt, and a variety of puddings made by our base camp cook are served for dessert. Various hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa) are also provided.
Payments
Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $1,500 per person secures your reservation.
- Deposit payments of $1,500 or less may be made via MasterCard, Visa, e-check, or check from a U.S. bank.
Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.
- Balance payments may only be made via e-check, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.*
- *Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
- A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees forfeited.
- Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.
Cancellation
The $1,500 per person deposit is non-refundable.
- All cancellations require written notification. Once the RMI Office receives your written notification of cancellation, the following apply:
- If you cancel 120 or more days before the start of your program, the $1,500 per person deposit will not be refunded.
- If you cancel less than 120 days before the start of your program, no refunds will be issued.
Due to the time-sensitive nature of these programs, and the amount of preparation time required for this program, it is unlikely that a vacant space will be filled close to the departure date. For this reason, we will strictly adhere to our policy and cannot make exceptions for any reason.
Cancellation Insurance
We require that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Tab for details.
Land Cost
INCLUDED
- RMI Leadership
- Hotel accommodations as indicated in the itinerary, based on double occupancy*
- All group transportation in country as indicated in the itinerary
- All group cooking, trekking, camping, and climbing equipment
NOT INCLUDED
- International airfare
- Travel insurance, medical evacuation insurance and security evacuation insurance
- Passport fees
- Vaccination fees (Yellow Fever is required)
- Excess baggage fees and departure taxes
- Meals not included in the itinerary
- Bottled water and personal drinks
- Support Staff Tip Pool (we suggest $100 per person)
- Customary guide gratuities
- Additional room charges including laundry service and other personal expenses
- Hotel accommodations not indicated in the itinerary
- Transfer from the hotel to the airport for outbound flight
- Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)
* Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those occupying single accommodations by choice or circumstance.
Risk Management
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rockfall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them.
You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
PARTICIPANT Responsibilities
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:
- Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
- Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
- Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
- Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
- Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
- Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
- Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
- Help minimize our impact on the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
- Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
- Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
- Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
- Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for, or capable of participating in the program, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotel reservationss, meals, etc.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines:
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by a parent or legal guardian for the duration of the program
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example, a 15-year-old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.
A parent or legal guardian must accompany the minor climber throughout the entirety of the program. If either climber must descend at any time during the program, both climbers must descend together.
A parent or legal guardian must sign for any Participant that is under 18 years of age. On behalf of any minor participant, the parent or legal guardian understands and accepts all the terms of the Program Policies.
Summit Attempt
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.
Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.
General Policies
RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).
Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or to discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.
Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same-gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.
The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies and that RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.