RMI Expeditions Blog
Thursday, 5/28 6 PM PST
All is well up here! Turned at 8100’ and we had a great day of skiing the Roosevelt Glacier instead! Great temps and good skiing concluded the day.
-RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
Posted by: Seth Burns, Ben Thorneycroft, Margo Kerr
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday, 5/29 1AM PST
After topping off our batteries (personal and electronic) with a sun filled rest day at 11 camp, our team went to bed last night ready for a carry in the morning. Silence greeted us as we awoke, an unusual sound around camps on the mountain. Snow had fallen through the night and we had nearly 2 feet of dry powder to contend with. Hope for moving today was all but lost and we prepared ourselves for a leisurely day, starting with delicious bacon (and vegan bacon) filled breakfast bagels. Once we had all finally settled into our books, movies, and journals, we got the news: “Let’s go! We’re going to carry, we want to be out as soon as possible.” Everyone jumped to it, got into our crampons, and we cruised through snow showers to break through a cloud layer into blistering sun just past Windy Corner to complete our cache at ~13,600ft. Soon we were back at our camp, refueling, and hoping to make a more permanent move to 14 camp in the next few days.
-RMI Climber Graham
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, May 19, 2026
Posted by: Jackson Breen, Lacie Smith, Raymond Holt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9700'
Thursday, May 28, 2026, 9:21 p.m. PDT
Day 1
Today we awoke to blue skies, so we rushed to the hangar, where we played the ‘hurry up and wait’ game. We got the text around 11 a.m. that we were flying on! We all rushed back to the hangar and lathered ourselves in sunscreen and smiles. We had moments of doubt about flying on, but climber Patti insisted we all share a piece of her Kendal Mint Bar. This famous candy delight was brought to London with the intention of being consumed before Denali. The treat is a ritual Patti practices for every climb. Alas, we are here at the airstrip, where we will sleep for the night. While enjoying our expansive views and the roars of the mountain, we enjoyed a delicious pad Thai dinner. Tomorrow, we plan to make our first big move to Camp 1!
RMI Guide Jackson Breen & Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 26, 2026
We’re cheering you on, Ricky and Team, from Maine! Praying for a safe journey and fun adventure for you all.
Posted by: Lauren on 5/29/2026 at 6:53 pm
Sending blessings on your journey … we’re excited to hike with you as we read logs and see pictures! Go, Ricky! Go, Team!
Posted by: Tess on 5/29/2026 at 5:14 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Nick Sinapius, Rosie Hust
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Bonjour from 14 Camp!
Sorry, the Canadians are taking over dispatch today. A chilly night left us happy, we slept with our toques and mitts on. We snoozed as best we could and waited for the sun to kiss our tents, giving us a minor reprieve from the chill. We wished for breakfast to be a couple of bacon and eggers but started with oatmeal before heading out for a rip up the fixed lines for some high-altitude poutine or Timbits. Travel was reasonable, as we were expecting a 50-degree sheet of ice worthy of rolling a few rocks or firing a few biscuits. Fortunately, someone spilled a couple of jugs of maple syrup on it, and travel was a bit tackier than expected.
The entire team made it to the top, reaching 16K, and when we unclipped, the clouds parted. The shamrock Sherpa thought he saw a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, and Nick was given his brief moment in the sun. We all enjoyed the stunning views from the roof of North America. After a few snacks, we headed back down a run more suited for a toboggan, back to a sunny camp. We bumped into a couple of fellow Canucks on our descent, shared a couple of “Oh hey, buds,” and the secret Canadian wave. We are now hoping for the storms to stay away, as we have a rest day tomorrow and our ultimate decision on Friday about whether to go up or head out.
We miss you all, and God save the King.
From Nikki’s Champions Group
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 12, 2026
We are all routing for the Shamrock Sherpa (Oliver) back home. It is great to see the mountain and weather is allowing you to progress onward. Sending you lots of love and hugs from Ireland xxxx
Maeve, James, Peter, Emmet
Knowing David is watching over you.
Posted by: Maeve on 5/29/2026 at 9:46 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Friday May 29, 2026 12:58am PDT
We have ascended to 17 Camp. It is cold and windy but we are all tucked in safe and sound for the night.
RMI Guide Jack Delaney & Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 8, 2026
Posted by: Seth Burns, Ben Thorneycroft, Margo Kerr
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,200'
Wednesday, May 27, 2026 - 9:03 pm PT
We woke up to a chilly morning with clear skies. After a couple days of carrying gear and moving camps, our lead guide Seth, called for a rest day. That called for a rest day. meant a slow morning enjoying extra coffee and english muffins and ham. Camp renovations soon followed and after building the best snow bench seen at 11 camp, we enjoyed some real rest on said bench. For five minutes until one climber said “man, I hate sitting... what else can we build!?”
We found a few other useful ways to pass the time (including some actual rest in our warm tents) but try to get a group of motivated mountaineers to do nothing on a nice weather day and that just might be harder than climbing the mountain itself.
- RMI Climber Connor
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, May 19, 2026
Enjoy doing what you love! Stay warm and safe and sleep well. We will be thinking of all of you and will be pulling for you. Wish we could pull your sleds for you, too! Hope this will be one of the best experiences of your lives! Sending lots of love!
Posted by: Susan Reusser on 5/28/2026 at 8:14 pm
Go Connor! Your girls miss you and are rooting for you!
Posted by: Aleeza on 5/28/2026 at 12:11 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Nick Sinapius, Rosie Hust
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 27, 2026 - 10:14 pm PT
Ah, a sweet sweet rest day. After a few days of solid work, the team deserved it. We slept in, and spent the morning sharing breakfast scrambles of hashbrowns, eggs and bacon (some soy bacon as well...), before settling into our tents for a few hours. The afternoon was spent working on the skills necessary to tackle the fixed lines tomorrow so we practice running belays, fixed line work, and steep crampon techniques. The weather was in and out, and wrapped the evening up with some more jambalaya and chats about the coming days. After our acclimation day tomorrow, we will be looking for a weather window that safely aligns.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 12, 2026
Love you Candice and Adam! <3
Posted by: Meagan Shultz on 5/29/2026 at 9:14 am
Love you Candice and Adam!!
Posted by: Kate on 5/29/2026 at 7:35 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 27, 2026 - 10:59 pm PT
Over the last few days the stars have slowing been aligning for us to take a crack at going all the way to the top of Denali. So today was our final rest day. We made the most out of it with an extended pancake-athon for breakfast. Afterwards the team went about organizing for our move to high camp, followed by practicing for the many running belays we are soon to encounter on our climb and finally snacking and napping. The night was finished off with a pizza party that culminated in the devouring of a delicious cheesecake. I know this sounds surreal but sometimes life is magical at 14,000 feet. Early to bed, early to rise - tomorrow we begin our bid for summit, starting with the climb to high camp at 17,000 feet!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Jack Delaney and the Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 8, 2026
Go Hayley and Team! I’m so proud of all the time and efforts you have put in. Thinking and praying for you often. Praying for success for your summit push.
Posted by: Rachel Miedema on 5/29/2026 at 8:31 am
Hope all goes well. Stay safe! Holding you all in our thoughts.
Sara and Tom Mayer (Joanie’s parents)
Posted by: Sara Mayer on 5/28/2026 at 8:21 am
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Miles Watson, David Rathbun
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today via the Emmons Glacier. The team met at Rainier BaseCamp on Saturday May 23 for a full day Orientation, Equipment Check and pre-climb prep. The following day the team spent the day training above Paradise practicing glacier travel, ice axe arrest and cramponing. Packed and ready at 7 am on Monday morning, the team left Ashford headed for the White River Trailhead. The team ascended to the Inter Glacier where they set up camp and spent the night. Yesterday, the team bumped to Camp Schurman and then launched their summti attempt early this morning. By 7 am they were at 14,000' on their descent. They will return to Camp Schurman to spend the night. Tomorrow they may do a bit more training before they retrace their steps to the trailhead and make the drive back to Ashford.
Way to go team!
Great job to all!! Especially Nathan, amazing perseverance, son!! Soo very proud if you!!
Posted by: Tom Wredberg on 5/28/2026 at 10:19 am
Great job guys!!! I knew you guys could do it. Just amazing.
Posted by: Phillip Daniel on 5/27/2026 at 6:38 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Avery Stolte, Mac Nolde, Matt Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb May 24 - 27 led by RMI Guide Mike King reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the the Ingraham Direct route this morning just before 8 am. Mike reported windy conditions and a lot of hard work by the team. They are currently on their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at Muir, they will take a short break before continuing to Paradise. Their program will conclude later this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Nice work team!
Where are your powder skis? Two feet of powder deserves slaying! Watch out for avys and have fun post-holing…
Posted by: Jim on 5/29/2026 at 10:52 am
Go G! You know I love an unexpected rest day.
Get it Graham.
Posted by: Tammy Brazil on 5/29/2026 at 10:49 am
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