RMI Expeditions Blog


Ama Dablam: Frank & Team Change Plans, Prepare for Summit Attempt

Saturday, October 24, 2026 - 12:57 am PT

Change of plans. We made it to Camp 2 today and are planning to stay here. Tomorrow morning we will go for the summit.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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Cotopaxi Express: Bennett Recaps Summit Day on Cotopaxi

Saturday, October 24, 2026 - 7:24 am PT

Cumbre! 

After departing Chilcabamba (Ecuadorian Hacienda), the team met up with the local Ecuadorian guide team and made their way in the national park. We loaded up our backpacks and made the short, sandy climb up to the Cotopaxi Rufugio at nearly 16,000 ft, the highest most members of the team have ever slept. We had an early dinner, summit talk, and then off to bed to grab a few hours of reprieve and rest before the alpine start. 

The team woke at 11pm, with an hour and a half on the shot clock to get packed, eat breakfast, and get squared away before heading out the door. The morning presented calm and cool conditions with virtually no wind and firm and stable walking conditions. It was a beautiful night to climb. 

Hour by hour the team chugged their way up the ice flanks of Cotopaxi, breaking to refuel and restock the mental stoke for the next stage of the climb. By first light, the team found themselves creeping onto the crater rim, meandering through an icy labyrinth of penitentes to the true summit of Cotopaxi at 19,347'. For most of the team, this was the highest elevation they have ever been, a massive step in their climbing careers. With great effort and determination, the entirety of the team was fortunate enough to stand on the summit, a great moment for the group and a proud triumph for the guiding team. 

Now off the mountain and recovering in the beautiful grass lands on the flank of Cotopaxi, laughter and storytelling occupy the conversation as the team reflects on the accomplishment that just transpired. Soon we will be off to Quito and back to our lives, taking our memories, and perhaps a bit of sunburn with us. 

RMI Guide Mike Bennett 

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Cotopaxi Express: 100% Summit on Cotopaxi

October 23, 2027 9:57am PDT

Just got off the mountain. We went 100% on Cotopaxi. I’ll send a blog later tonight.

RMI Guide Mike Bennett & Team

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Ama Dablam Expedition: Team Reaches Camp 1

October 23. 2026 2:31 am PDT

Made it to Camp 1. Relaxing got the afternoon. Tomorrow we're gonna climb the Yellow Tower to Camp 2, then come down to C1 to sleep.

RMI Guide Eric Frank and Team

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AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION: Team Prepares to Move to Camp 1

Thursday, October 22, 2023 8:26pm PDT

The weather is clear and we are feeling strong! Yesterday we took an acclimatization walk up to just below Camp 1 (19,100') to stretch our legs and preview the route. Everything is falling into place. 

We were hoping to do a full stand alone acclimatization cycle before our summit push, but there is a significant storm front on the horizon next Tuesday so we are going to compress the schedule to take advantage of the current high pressure.

Today we are headed back to Camp 1 to sleep and get in position for the climb. Wish us luck. We will try to send short dispatches each day to mark our progress uphill. 

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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Cotopaxi Express: Bennett & Team Reach Summit of Illiniza Norte

Wednesday, October 21, 2026 - 4:29 pm PT

Greetings!! 

Today the team woke up early and dawned crampons and ropes for the first time this trip before summiting Illiniza Norte (16,800ft) at 8 am this morning. The weather was beautiful and the summit was another high point for a lot of our climbers. We had an amazing lunch in Machachi where some of our climbers got a taste of magic chocolate, which is hot chocolate with marshmallows and cheese. It was indeed a magical experience. We made our way to Chilcabamba where the team gets to enjoy showers, another delicious meal, and separate rooms. Tomorrow we will make our way to the Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi.  For now, the team bonds over Monopoly Deal and complimentary ponchos. 

Cheers! 

RMI Guide Mac Nolde 

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Ama Dablam Expedition: Frank & Team Arrive at Base Camp

The last two days of trekking have taken us through some of the most beautiful terrain anyone can hope to see: small Sherpa villages set next to raging rivers with giant peaks in all directions. We walked for a few hours each day, then enjoyed afternoon tea and coffee while taking in the view.

Yesterday we finally arrived at Ama Dablam Base Camp. The basecamp here sits on a grassy field positioned with views of the upper face, the climbing route to the summit. We spent the morning practicing rope accension with plenty of breaks to stare up at the peak. 

Our plan is to move up to Camp 1 tomorrow for acclimatization. The next day we hope to climb up to Camp 2 before returning to Camp 1 for a second night. After this round we should be in good position for a summit cycle and just need to wait for the weather to give us a suitable window. 

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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A “High” Five to the Farnie boys!...and their whole team.  Looks so great, you’ve got to be loving it!  Dad

Posted by: John Farnie on 10/22/2026 at 12:20 pm

Hey Eric!
Sending best wishes for Perfect bluebird skies for you and your team!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 10/22/2026 at 3:23 am


Cotopaxi Express: Bennett & Team Depart Quito Ready for Alpine Start

Tuesday, October 20, 2026

Move on up! 

Today the team packed up all their gear, loaded Victor's magic school bus, and departed from the comfort of Quito, making our way to the base of Illiniza Norte. A speedy ascent put us at the Illiniza hut early in the afternoon, giving the team time to rest and relax before indulging in a local dinner and playing some cards.

After the evening briefing on tomorrow's objective, the team hit an early bedtime in preparation for the alpine start. Hopefully tomorrow brings good weather and fair climbing conditions! Regardless, we will see you on the other side. 

RMI Guide Mike Bennett 

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Cotopaxi Express: Team Acclimates On Rucu Pichincha

¡Buenas! 

Today the team met up with our local guide Jaime, who has summited Cotopaxi over 400 times, and had our first acclimatization hike to the summit of Rucu Pichincha, (15,696 ft or 4696m).  The weather was great with some clouds lingering but no precipitation which is amazing for this time of year in Ecuador. Today’s summit was the highest elevation a few of our climbers have ever been to, but the whole team did an amazing job. Luke even made a friend on the summit with a Carunculated Caracara, a falcon found high on the grassy slopes of Ecuador. 

The team has been taking advantage of the spa and cold plunge back at the hotel with Eric taking his first cold plunge yesterday and loved it so much he tried to go again at 5am this morning! (The spa was closed). 

Tonight the team continues to settle into life at high elevation, enjoying dinner in Quito, and packing for our move to the Illiniza Refugio (15,100’ or 4600m) tomorrow.  

¡Adios! 

RMI Guide Mac Nolde

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Luke out here having incredible adventures and making friends with locals…even the falcons are showing up

Posted by: Maggie on 10/23/2026 at 10:38 am

This looks like such an epic adventure. Tell Mike we are cheering him on an anxiously awaiting the daily update.

Posted by: Brooke Romney on 10/20/2026 at 5:40 pm


Cotopaxi Express: Bennett & Team Explore Quito, Ecuador

Sunday, October 18, 2026

The fall Cotopaxi team has arrived in Ecuador and is settling in and acclimatizing in the city. We spent the morning getting to meet one another, covering some basics on travel and culture in Ecuador, and then venturing into Quito to explore.

A local tour guide provided the team with great insight and education on various cultural and religious point of Quito. Additionally, the team visited the Equator and spent some time learning through interactive exhibits and displays. The late afternoon was occupied by a team gear check before being cut free to rest and indulge in local cuisine before resting for the evening.

All is well and the team is doing well and looking forward to the big days to come. 

RMI Guide Mike Bennett

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