RMI Expeditions Blog

Tuesday, June 16, 2026 - 11:11 pm PT

As expected, today was a busy one.  We talked over our priorities and strategies. We sat with the National Park Service rangers for our required orientation.  We dialed personal gear, group gear and food quantities.  We packed and prepped and checked our systems.  Then we went into town, relaxed and ate pizza.  We are ready. We hope to fly in first thing tomorrow morning. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Denali Dispatch June 16, 2026, 11:56pm PDT

After two days of snowfall, we woke up to a beautiful clear morning at Camp 2, 11,200’. With the clear came the cold, but after a rest day and a back carry day, the team was ready to keep moving up the mountain. We gathered for breakfast and enjoyed another round of bagels, some saying they rival New York’s best.

We prepped our sleds and packs and strapped in for our second cache day. We traded snowshoes for crampons, and a hiking pole for an ice axe. Just as Ben had planned, we would take off as soon as the sun hit us. Sure enough, at 9am, the sun peaked over the father Son Wall, splashing light on the snow like a curtain opening on the route ahead.

We first tackled Motorcycle Hill, a steep 500-foot climb, hitting a rhythm of side stepping and duck steps. Blood started flowing back into our icy toes. Slow and steady is the name of the game on these days. I relish in the long periods of silence that allow your mind to wonder—what feels like a luxury in otherwise frenetic lives, but what the mountains reliably provide in the mountains you are present; you want to be present, you must be present. The night before we embarked on the expedition, that was Allison and my In the mountains you are present; you want to be present, you must be present. The night before we embarked on the expedition, that was Allison and my quick break, we continued onto Squirrel Hill, a rolling snow field that’s adds elevation faster than it looks. There’s something moving about watching a rope team against the white snowy expanse. It’s an image of teamwork and pursuit. We took a load off at the top in the sunshine, lounging on our packs like beach chairs, diligently hydrating, fueling, and reapplying sunscreen. This sun on snow is not messing around. Do not be alarmed if we return looking like, as Mike describes a matchstick: red faces on top with pale bodies below.

We added helmets to cross the Polo Field, a snow field beneath a rocky face with risk of rock fall. At the top, we reached Windy Corner. It was, paradoxically, quite still. We ditched layers in anticipation of the furnace beyond the bend. Today really hit home the “freeze and fry” phenomenon of Denali. The heat enveloped us as we traversed the final stretch, sleds hanging on the slope beneath us as we avoided cracks that expose electric blue glacial ice.

We reached the cache at 13,500’, swiveled around and jaws literally dropped. Mount Forker rose above the clouds in exposé electric blue glacial ice. the distance, glistening. The inversion encircled the mountain. It is a magical place up here—sometimes calming, sometimes intimidating, and always awe-inspiring.  This mountain feels alive. You can hear her belly rumble from inside our tents when a distant avalanche falls. She stirs up her own weather in and brings sun and snow within minutes. It feels like we’ve been lucky so far with weather, but that luck is in no small part the strategic decisions by our stellar guide team for when and where to move. Not only that, but Ben, Mike and Avery are ready to fix a wonky rope, adjust a helmet gone awry, meet you with a fist bump at the top of the climb, cook up a mean gumbo, and at least one will crush you at a game of M-Deal. We cached a load for the next couple of days. Hudson shared his charcuterie. Devon hit Snickers bar #16 The fifth layer of sunscreen was slathered. This was the closest look yet at the West Buttress ridge and Denali’s summit. We looked up at 17’ camp in anticipation and perhaps a bit of apprehension.

It’s humbling heading back down to camp, losing all the elevation you just gained and knowing You’ll have to do it again. But the mountains are always ready to humble. You think you are strong, but you can always be stronger. It was also good mental practice. In the mountains, the highest point is also the halfway point, and focus is even more important on the way down. We practiced steady and solid footwork, plunge steps through the deep snow and shuffling on the steeps. We passed several teams heading up on our way down, exchanging fist bumps and pole taps. We descended into the cloud and retraced our steps down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hill in white fog. A peaceful silence settled around us leaving only the beat of crunching crampons in snow. Camp emerged from the fog, and we got back in time for a bit of après: electrolytes, nut mixes, and banter.

As the climb gets harder, I think about how lucky we are to be here. How lucky we are to have two feet and strong legs to raise us 3000 feet up and down in a day. I feel particularly lucky because I’m here with my big sister Allison, who has always showed me the ropes, and with my brother-in-law Jimmy, who is always ready with a warm beverage to share, a shovel to improve the vestibule, and words of encouragement for everyone on the team. But now in just six short days—or perhaps the second we roped up at base camp—this whole team has become a family. In the words of Ranger Allen, this is not an individual sport. That’s what makes mountaineering so special. We all must be strong. And our strength, of body and mind, strengthens others.

Let’s do it again tomorrow!

Climber Amanda Morrison

Tuesday, June 16, 2026 - 10:58 pm PT

6/16 after a long, hard, and heavy day the team arrived to 17,000' Camp. Despite the arduous day, the team got to work making camp and prepping for our summit push tomorrow! Stay tuned!

RMI Guide Dan May

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons, June 13–18, led by RMI Guide George Hedreen, had planned to make their summit attempt from Camp Schurman last night. However, high winds prevented the team from proceeding as scheduled. The group remained at Camp Schurman as the forecasted winds did indeed materialize.

Today, the team may spend additional time training on the mountain before spending one more night in camp. They will begin their descent to the trailhead tomorrow and are expected to return to Ashford tomorrow afternoon.

We look forward to welcoming them back and hearing about their experience on the mountain.

The Four Day Climb June 14 - 17 led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Jess Wedel were turned around by high winds at 10,300'.  The telemetry at Camp Muir is showing wind gusts up to 48 mph. The teams returned to Camp Muir and enjoyed a bit of rest and perhaps a nice sunrise.  They plan to descend from Camp Muir around 9:30 am.  We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Monday, June 15, 2026 - 3:57 pm PT

Our climb of Cotopaxi was a resounding success. After making out way to the Jose Ribas Refugio at 15,950' on Saturday, we woke to high winds and blowing moisture. Not knowing exactly how things would progress, we donned our shell layers and headed out to attempt the peak. The weather remained the same throughout our climb and despite the fact that a thick layer of ice built up on every vertical surface, the team trudged on, reaching the summit at 6:30am on Sunday.  

Yesterday afternoon we returned to Quito for a celebratory dinner, some thicker air, and a collection of flights to our various corners of the country. 

On a personal note, I wanted to say thank you to this team for an amazing week of climbing. In many ways, this was a textbook trip: we had 100% success on each of the four peaks we climbed. That doesn't mean that the climbs were without challenge, but rather that each teammate showed up fit and ready to climb. Even when things were in doubt, they kept positive attitudes and were willing to make the best of every situation. I feel fortunate to have spent the week getting to show them around one of the best climbing areas in South America. Cheers!

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Monday, June 15, 2026 - 10:43 pm PT

Denali Dispatch June 15, 2026

After five days on the mountain much of our routine feels familiar: toilets with mountain views, wet hands and bums, and frosted breath near the purring cook stove. What’s not yet normal is the ever-present daylight. We’re each testing novel approaches to elusive sleep, mostly struggling, and yet still waking up strong and in good cheer. That’s why today’s 5am wake-up seemed routine. After coffee and breakfast bars we bundled up for our last snowshoe day to fetch our cache 1,000 feet below. The thirty-minute walk down was brisk, made notable when we moved into a windy cloud. Our clothes turned white, visibility fell to three ahead, and glasses fogged as we debated whether visibility or covered noses was our priority. It was cold. It felt like the real start of the trip. At the cache we bundled up as the guides dug out gear and we loaded sleds while laughing about the conditions.

The slow walk up started with frigid hands and winds from our right, turning to clear skies again by our first break. It’s a good reminder, the discomfort on this mountain doesn’t last. Then, by 9a we were back to camp and settling in for a breakfast sandwich brunch. From there we broke into our usual patterns - some reading, some napping, and some building property empires.

In the afternoon we dusted off our crampons for a refresher on climbing steps, bumped into three friends of Devon, and were given a bounty of candy, bone broth, and ramen from a group who just summited. There's a growing familiarity with one another and shared embrace of focus on each day as it comes. That’s what’s hard to describe about these trips - we come for the summit, yes, but also for the invitation into discomfort, for the long hours with new friends, and for remembering how little we need.

Family, friends, and loved ones - you’re often on our mind as we walk on our ropes. Know we think and speak of you often.

From 11, RMI Climber Hudson

P.S. We thought a glossary of key terms might help as you follow along.

Cache. A six foot hole dug in minutes by guides to hold food you wish you had, lost socks, and dinner options besides burritos.

Toilet. A snow burrow with ice bricks for privacy, his and her urinals, and two green buckets for sitting and paper waste. Visible when standing, you either have brilliant views or piercing wind.

Kitchen Tent. Two facing bench seats with touching knees dug hip height below the snow. Icy steps mark the entrance, chef cooks on the far end, tent pads serve as cushions, and talk often returns to trash and hot sauce.

Snowshoes. Like children in their parent’s shoes, sometimes on the wrong feet and much improved when equipped with risers.

 Rope Team. A guide plus three tent mates who occasionally step on the rope and yell encouragement from 20 feet away at rest breaks.

 Tent. A sauna that smells like a locker room, sounds like a zipper, and insists on hiding your spoon.

Written by Climber Hudson 

Monday, June 15th, 2026 - 11:08 pm PT 

Today turned out to be a sunny albeit cold and beautiful rest day at 14k Camp. We spent the day crossing our Ts and dotting our Is as we packed and prepared for our move up to 17,000' Camp the following day. With some good weather on the horizon the team is ready to make our summit bid, wish us luck!

RMI Guide Dan May

Received Monday, June 15, 2026, - 9:10 pm PT

Denali Team #7 Dispatch for Sun, June 14:

The team slept in after a productive three days and despite a few inches of snow over "night" got suited up and excited for a quick back-carry day. And then the winds picked up.

As visibility tanked and the winds and snow became more sustained, we went into a holding pattern.

The hours slipped by and weather continued unabated. We slowly transitioned into a rest day, passing the time wíth books, movies, conversation and rather competitive games of Monopoly Deal; Ben did eventually win one.

Blowing snow turned to sunny skies as we devoured burritos and got excited over a favorable forecast for the next few days.

Back to work!

RMI Climber Matt Gates

The Four Day Climb June 13 - 16 led by RMI Guide Sam Marjerison turned around at 12,200' today due to high winds. The teams returned to Camp Muir around 6:30, they enjoyed a bit of a rest and then started their descend from Camp Muir to Paradise around 8:45 am.  They will return to Rainier Base Camp around noon today and complete their program.