RMI Expeditions Blog

Monday, June 15, 2026 - 3:57 pm PT

Our climb of Cotopaxi was a resounding success. After making out way to the Jose Ribas Refugio at 15,950' on Saturday, we woke to high winds and blowing moisture. Not knowing exactly how things would progress, we donned our shell layers and headed out to attempt the peak. The weather remained the same throughout our climb and despite the fact that a thick layer of ice built up on every vertical surface, the team trudged on, reaching the summit at 6:30am on Sunday.  

Yesterday afternoon we returned to Quito for a celebratory dinner, some thicker air, and a collection of flights to our various corners of the country. 

On a personal note, I wanted to say thank you to this team for an amazing week of climbing. In many ways, this was a textbook trip: we had 100% success on each of the four peaks we climbed. That doesn't mean that the climbs were without challenge, but rather that each teammate showed up fit and ready to climb. Even when things were in doubt, they kept positive attitudes and were willing to make the best of every situation. I feel fortunate to have spent the week getting to show them around one of the best climbing areas in South America. Cheers!

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Monday, June 15, 2026 - 10:43 pm PT

Denali Dispatch June 15, 2026

After five days on the mountain much of our routine feels familiar: toilets with mountain views, wet hands and bums, and frosted breath near the purring cook stove. What’s not yet normal is the ever-present daylight. We’re each testing novel approaches to elusive sleep, mostly struggling, and yet still waking up strong and in good cheer. That’s why today’s 5am wake-up seemed routine. After coffee and breakfast bars we bundled up for our last snowshoe day to fetch our cache 1,000 feet below. The thirty-minute walk down was brisk, made notable when we moved into a windy cloud. Our clothes turned white, visibility fell to three ahead, and glasses fogged as we debated whether visibility or covered noses was our priority. It was cold. It felt like the real start of the trip. At the cache we bundled up as the guides dug out gear and we loaded sleds while laughing about the conditions.

The slow walk up started with frigid hands and winds from our right, turning to clear skies again by our first break. It’s a good reminder, the discomfort on this mountain doesn’t last. Then, by 9a we were back to camp and settling in for a breakfast sandwich brunch. From there we broke into our usual patterns - some reading, some napping, and some building property empires.

In the afternoon we dusted off our crampons for a refresher on climbing steps, bumped into three friends of Devon, and were given a bounty of candy, bone broth, and ramen from a group who just summited. There's a growing familiarity with one another and shared embrace of focus on each day as it comes. That’s what’s hard to describe about these trips - we come for the summit, yes, but also for the invitation into discomfort, for the long hours with new friends, and for remembering how little we need.

Family, friends, and loved ones - you’re often on our mind as we walk on our ropes. Know we think and speak of you often.

From 11, RMI Climber Hudson

P.S. We thought a glossary of key terms might help as you follow along.

Cache. A six foot hole dug in minutes by guides to hold food you wish you had, lost socks, and dinner options besides burritos.

Toilet. A snow burrow with ice bricks for privacy, his and her urinals, and two green buckets for sitting and paper waste. Visible when standing, you either have brilliant views or piercing wind.

Kitchen Tent. Two facing bench seats with touching knees dug hip height below the snow. Icy steps mark the entrance, chef cooks on the far end, tent pads serve as cushions, and talk often returns to trash and hot sauce.

Snowshoes. Like children in their parent’s shoes, sometimes on the wrong feet and much improved when equipped with risers.

 Rope Team. A guide plus three tent mates who occasionally step on the rope and yell encouragement from 20 feet away at rest breaks.

 Tent. A sauna that smells like a locker room, sounds like a zipper, and insists on hiding your spoon.

Written by Climber Hudson 

Monday, June 15th, 2026 - 11:08 pm PT 

Today turned out to be a sunny albeit cold and beautiful rest day at 14k Camp. We spent the day crossing our Ts and dotting our Is as we packed and prepared for our move up to 17,000' Camp the following day. With some good weather on the horizon the team is ready to make our summit bid, wish us luck!

RMI Guide Dan May

Received Monday, June 15, 2026, - 9:10 pm PT

Denali Team #7 Dispatch for Sun, June 14:

The team slept in after a productive three days and despite a few inches of snow over "night" got suited up and excited for a quick back-carry day. And then the winds picked up.

As visibility tanked and the winds and snow became more sustained, we went into a holding pattern.

The hours slipped by and weather continued unabated. We slowly transitioned into a rest day, passing the time wíth books, movies, conversation and rather competitive games of Monopoly Deal; Ben did eventually win one.

Blowing snow turned to sunny skies as we devoured burritos and got excited over a favorable forecast for the next few days.

Back to work!

RMI Climber Matt Gates

The Four Day Climb June 13 - 16 led by RMI Guide Sam Marjerison turned around at 12,200' today due to high winds. The teams returned to Camp Muir around 6:30, they enjoyed a bit of a rest and then started their descend from Camp Muir to Paradise around 8:45 am.  They will return to Rainier Base Camp around noon today and complete their program.

The five-day climb led my RMI Guide Mike King summitted Mt Rainier this morning around 6am PST. They reported a warm night of climbing and light winds. They are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and will be back in Ashford tomorrow. 

Great work team!

The four-day climb led my RMI Guide Ben Ammon summitted Mt Rainier this morning around 6am PST. They reported a warm night of climbing and light winds. They are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and will be back in Ashford this afternoon. 

Great work team!

Sunday, June 14th - 11:15PM PST
Greetings from team DDM at 14k! We started our morning with some high winds that almost flattened our cook tent. Once we reset our anchors, we enjoyed a nice rest day full of naps and snacks. Thank you to Seth and Jackson for leaving all of their cookies for us to enjoy. Our dear climber Zack sang us a song about camp DDM at 14k to the tune of Pink Pony Club. We will enjoy another rest day tomorrow full of more snacks, prep for our move to 17k, and more singing.

Cheers!
-RMI Gudie Mac

RMI teams led by guides Joe Crawford and Hannah Blum set out to summit Mt Rainier this morning, but turned around at the top of the Dissapointment Cleaver due to route conditions. They are on their way back down to Camp Muir and will be back in Ashford later today. 

6/13 1. Guest dispatcher Zach checking in with the DDM team here at 14k camp.

The day began with another cold morning easily battled by bellies filled of hot beverages and CTC (Cinnamon Toast Crunch). The team looked incredibly strong and efficient today as we made an acclimatization push up the fixed lines. 

The entire way up was gifted with incredibly clear views in every direction. Once at the ridgeline we got out first glimpse of the entire northern side of the range and beyond into the endless expanse of Alaskan tundra. From there we made our way back down to camp for a relaxing afternoon just as a storm closed in behind us. The afternoon was a combined mix of snow and sunshine making for a wonderful ambiance.

The status que around the team is consistently being upheld as the world's best #1 rope team continues to stealthily slide under the radar and avoid demerits. Team Erik and the Squatters aka the New Mexico Allstars continue to excel at every aspect of Denali life- something all of us common folk can only dream to achieve.

Finally Team Hoarding Marmots including yours truly, continue to evolve our domicile. What began as the chateau marmot, then the fortress of demerits and finally the marmot chalet has again evolved through the course of the trek. The warm, sunny afternoons have turned the tents into a sauna like relaxation pods and with the addition of hours of spa music on loop the Marmot Spa has opened for business... until the speaker dies. While actively attempting to bribe our wonderful guides to help add the finishing touch to the Marmot Spa by providing facial massages, they have respectfully turned us down citing a lack of fresh cucumber slices and thawed facial cream.

Tomorrow is another scheduled rest day just in time for the next storm system to flow through. After that we wait for the next 3 day weather window to begin our summit push

Mia and Beckett, I hope you get to experience places like this when you get a bit older. Hi mom! 

Hoarding marmot,  

Signing out

- RMI Climber Zack