RMI Expeditions Blog

Sun 6/7/2026 11:40 AM

Dear reader, pardon the lateness of now-yesterday’s dispatch, but after our ascent to 14k camp, we awoke covered in frost yesterday, only to have our rest day cruelly ripped away from us. Please, sir, but a small helping of hot water for Lizzie’s single-origin Kenyan pour-over coffee? No. Instead, an unspecified group update.

Much to our dismay, our guide’s (*sigh*) relentlessly unimpeachable decision-making meant that in the face of oncoming weather, we would expedite a run to 16k feet to acclimatize and cache food for a later summit bid.

We therefore enjoyed a hasty but quite respectable breakfast of rehydrated eggs and hash browns. (What would it take for *you* to ingest a liter of uncooked egg slurry? Comment below!) As the sun rose from behind the mountain and conditions transitioned in the span of two minutes from bitter cold to oppressive heat, we roped up and set to work.

Everyone climbed admirably. With good communication and low-moderate lingering resentment, we ascended the fixed lines smoothly, cached our food, and enjoyed sweeping views of Mount Hunter (somehow now below us!) and Mount Foraker (watch out, you’re next).

In light of this progress, we now face one of the most strenuous and imposing segments of the climb: three to four rest days while the weather passes with no internet and long since exhausted even-passably-from-a-distance-clean-ish clothes.

But like ice to so many mountains, we cling to optimism. As long as we don’t lose essential gear to our guides in games of chess, and as long as Pattie has enough puzzles and Matt continues to summon answers like two six-letter countries that start with “r” and end with “a,” prospects for the next segment—like the subarctic sunlight at 2 AM—are bright.

To all 13,000 readers of this blog, we send our love and best wishes and eagerly await seeing you on the other side of the mountain.

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- Climber Ricky

6/7 - Given a questionable forecast, the team met at 5:30am this morning for a quick coffee and early launch for Rucu. It turned out to be a great decision as we were rewarded with spectacular views of the other Ecuadorian volcanoes and dry conditions for our climb. After traversing the grassy plains below the peak, we linked together sections of easy trail with some short rock scrambles until we arrived at the top in only 3 hours. 

Everyone performed well and felt strong despite the fact that we are only on our second day in country. After returning from the climb we gorged on pizza and look forward to an afternoon of relaxing before we pack up to head to our next peak - Illiniza Norte. 

- RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

Saturday, June 6th

Burns & team make it back to Talkeetna.

Congratulations everyone!

Saturday, June 6th - 8PM PST

Late last night, the guide team received news of the passing of an NPS ranger in a tragic accident. The morning greeted us with crystal clear skies, sunshine and the mountain shining and glowing extra special. The day was spent reflecting and remembering the fallen Ranger. A mountain guide, Ski patroller, Nurse, and Denali NPS pro Ranger, she dedicated her life to selflessly serving others in the front country and in some of then most austere environments. She will be missed and celebrated. Also in our thoughts today are the RMI guides currently on NPS volunteer ranger patrols, all previous volunteers, the Pro rangers and pilots. These folks give their time, effort, and sometimes lives to make Denali the special and life changing place that it is.

The team had smooth move day to 11 camp.  We dug in Camp deep in anticipation of a short storm. Now at 11 we are looking forward to starting the acclimatization process and setting ourselves up to move further up the mountain.

-RMI Guide Team

RMI teams led by guides Will Ambler and Joe Crawford made their summit attempt this morning. As a result of recent snow accumulation and strong winds on the upper mountain, they found evidence of snow instability and decided to turn around at 12,450'. The teams had made their way back to Camp Muir and are doing additional training for the remainder of the morning. 

Nice work team! 

6/6 - After a long day of travel and a few overnight flights, our team is here in Quito! We spent today visiting many of the tourist hotspots and wandering around town. Our purpose was two-fold: experience a taste of Ecuadorian culture and begin the acclimatization process. Moving around town, even on flat ground, at 9,300' felt like a significant effort and we look forward to a good night of sleep before heading out into the mountains. 

- RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli and Ben Luedtke reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams were in and out of the clouds as they climbed into a cap to reach 14,410'. It was cold with a steady breeze, but the team pushed through to reach the top.

Congratulations Team!

Friday, June 5th - 6PM PST

Greetings!

We had a successful day caching at 10000’ and getting ready to move to 11 camp tomorrow. The guides have taken to the Zeppathon, listening to all of Led Zeppelin’s albums and discussing their favorites. Led Zeppelin IV seems to be a favorite. The climbers are doing great and had so much fun helping their guides dig the cache (they offered). Conversations amongst the clients have ranged from ‘how many siblings do you have’ to ‘what is your spirit vegetable?’ One of the our climbers noted what great posture one of our female guides on the trip has. Spirits are high and the sun is hot. Dinner tonight is burritos with more discussions of getting to know each other. The topic tonight is biggest regrets in life.

Cheers!

-RMI Guide Mac (with the good posture)

Friday, June 5th - 8PM PST

Welcome to Serenity Ridge! This is a rare opportunity to purchase a premiere piece of Alaskan wilderness. Nestled on a wide ridge at 14,200’, this new subdivision offers sweeping views of the Alaska Range, including Mt. Foraker, and easy access to the Autobahn, the local chess club, and the beloved eatery “The Soup God,” where you might catch a glimpse of Chef Ray in his apron. Stop by The Alonso Drafthouse for a film screening or take a walk to the National Park Service outpost. Grab a snack at The Cache! Property includes access to private helipad. Adjoining easement with Denali National Park ensures no new development. This is truly the end of the world!

This off-the-grid home was lovingly built by hand and features a cathedral ceiling, built-ins with ample storage, solar power, and two enclosed porches. Sit with your coffee in the morning and watch the clouds roll in over the tundra below! Recently remodelled with reclaimed materials in June 2026. You’ll love the rustic feel. Improvements include a reinforced foundation and a detached kitchen and bathroom, the latter of which has been well loved. With no running water, power or heat, monthly costs are low — and there’s no lawn to mow!

Don’t miss this opportunity! This is all about location, location, location! Two remaining homes for sale — two and three-person occupancies, measuring between 32 and 40 square feet. The mansion on the block — a four-person dwelling currently occupied by two — has already sold. Neighbors are quiet. (Minus the snoring.)

This is communal living at its finest!

For information on the open house, please comment below.

Listed for: One fresh package of cookie dough, two Sherpas and access to a hot shower.
Listing agent: Jackson Breen

Walkability: 20
Public transportation: 0
School system: 0
Municipal services: 0
Hospital access: 0
Nightlife: 0 (Shocker!!) 
 

Friday, June 5th - 11:30PM PST

Sleep at 17 camp is never glorious nor sound. We woke up our tired and stiff bodies feeling better the more we moved. The sun was hot on the tent, and encouraged us slowly out of our sleeping bags. Once again, the day was splitter, and we broke down camp excited to climb down the buttress.

Spectacular climbing led to one more trip down the fixed lines and back to 14 camp. We made a quick stop at 14, digging up our cache and saying hi to friends. We rigged up the sleds and wrangled them down to 11 camp where we now enjoy dehydrated meals to a short nights sleep.