Whether you're eyeing your first major summit or adding another peak to your experience, this 16-week plan gives you the foundation to arrive at your climb ready. It's built on the same principles we use to prepare climbers for Mount Rainier, but it's flexible enough to adapt to whatever mountain you're chasing.
Inside, you'll find proven conditioning strategies paired with practical guidance on fueling, recovery, and skill development. The goal is simple: show up feeling fit, confident, and excited for what's ahead.
This article takes you through how to use our 16 Week Training Plan Template, which you can download as an Excel or Google Sheets file. If you're using Google Sheets, just click the link, then select File → Make a Copy to create your own editable version.
To get the most out of this plan, check out these RMI resources that dig deeper into the training concepts you'll be using:
Training goals are critically important given the time constraints placed by weather, route conditions, objective hazards, and the effects of altitude. Proper physical conditioning allows you to perform better by climbing longer, stronger and faster, be more comfortable on steeper and awkward terrain, carry heavier loads, recover more quickly at rest, and better enjoy the entire adventure.
Begin by asking these questions:
This 16-week plan breaks down into four phases: Base Fitness, Mountaineering-Specific, Peak Simulation, and Taper & Recovery. You'll gradually build aerobic capacity, strength, and the mountain-specific skills you need. Each week includes suggested workouts, nutrition tips, and space to log your own details.
The keys to success? Consistency, smart fueling, and regular performance checks.
Primary Goal: Build a broad aerobic base and basic strength.
Typical Workouts: Easy runs/hikes, foundational strength work (bodyweight squats, lunges, push-ups), mobility sessions.
Nutrition Emphasis: Increase daily protein, make sure you're getting adequate carbs for moderate-intensity aerobic sessions.
Primary Goal: Add interval training, weighted pack hikes, and skill practice (balance, stepping technique, basic footwork).
Typical Workouts: Hill repeats, speed hikes, progressive pack weight.
Nutrition Emphasis: Refine your fueling strategy. Start incorporating more calorically dense snacks, experiment with fasted easy sessions if you want.
Primary Goal: Longer hikes (multiple hours), heavier packs, possibly back-to-back long days to simulate real climb conditions.
Typical Workouts: 4 to 8 hour hikes on weekends, continued intervals, advanced strength sessions.
Nutrition Emphasis: Practice your "summit day" eating and drinking schedule. Make sure you can handle real trail snacks and meals.
Primary Goal: Significantly reduce training volume (around 50%) so you arrive at your climb feeling rested, not fatigued.
Typical Workouts: Brief, low-intensity hikes, final gear checks, mental prep.
Nutrition Emphasis: Maintain healthy calorie intake without the heavy training load. Focus on hydration, micronutrients, and rest.
To get ready for your climb, you'll want to hit five key areas: aerobic endurance, anaerobic/interval work, strength training, balance/agility, and flexibility/mobility. Each one builds a different piece of your overall fitness, helping you handle long days, steep sections, heavy packs, and quick recovery.
AEROBIC ENDURANCE
ANAEROBIC / INTERVAL WORK
STRENGTH TRAINING
BALANCE & AGILITY
FLEXIBILITY & MOBILITY
Mountaineering training places high demands on your body. Good nutrition ensures stable energy levels, supports muscle recovery, and helps prevent fatigue or injury.
Macronutrient Focus
Mid-Workout Fueling & Hydration
For efforts over 1 hour, plan your snack options (fruit, energy gels, bars, trail mix) and decide how often you'll eat (typically every 45-60 minutes). Note a hydration target per hour (e.g., 10-12 oz) and whether you'll use electrolyte tabs or sports drink.
Ongoing Adjustments
Throughout the 16 weeks, reevaluate how well your nutrition plan is supporting training. Experiment early in the plan to see what works best. By logging your observations, you'll develop a reliable system to keep you fueled, recovered, and ready for each step toward your summit.
Each week includes a table with suggested workouts and space for you to fill in your own details. Think of these as a framework, not a script. Here's what each column is for:
Suggested Workout: We provide a recommended structure (like "Strength & Mobility" or "Interval Hike").
Your Plan: Fill in the actual details. Duration, pack weight, location, intensity level. Make it yours.
Nutrition Notes: Jot down how you'll fuel before, during, or after workouts. This helps you dial in what works.
Progress Notes: Optional space for reflection. How you felt, any gear issues, adjustments you made. Tracking patterns here is valuable.
Use this table to log your benchmark test results every few weeks. Watching these numbers improve is one of the best motivators out there.
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Customize Load & Duration: The suggested workouts are guidelines. Scale up or down based on your fitness, local terrain, and schedule.
Listen to Your Body: If fatigue piles up or you feel soreness/injury coming on, reduce volume or intensity. Prioritize rest.
Track Nutrition: Keep a log of what works best, especially on long hikes. Show up at your climb with a proven fueling strategy.
Stay Flexible: Work, weather, and life can shift your plan. Consistency over time beats perfection every time.
Enjoy the Journey: Building mountaineering fitness is challenging and rewarding. Celebrate the gains, learn from setbacks, and have fun with it.
This 16-week program gives you a structured, progressive plan you can adapt to your schedule and objective. Use the template to track your progress, dial in your nutrition, and build the fitness you need. Train well, and we'll see you on the mountain.
]]>You're three months out from your climb. You've been putting in the hours, hitting the trail with your pack, logging the workouts. But here's the question that keeps creeping in: Is it actually working? Am I really getting fitter, or just getting tired?
This is where benchmark testing comes in. Regular, standardized assessments of your aerobic endurance and strength give you real data about your progress. No more guessing. You'll see exactly where you're thriving and where you might need to adjust your approach.
Think of benchmarks as check-ins with yourself. They keep you motivated, help you make smart adjustments, and build confidence as your climb date gets closer.
Tests provide concrete evidence of how your fitness is evolving. Instead of wondering whether your uphill speed is improving, you can look at a time trial result and see real gains (or plateaus). Numbers don't lie.
No two climbers are the same. Genetics, age, training background, lifestyle—all of it affects how you respond to a workout plan. Testing lets you tailor your program to what actually works for your body.
If you're not seeing progress in your uphill speed after six weeks, for instance, you can introduce or modify interval sessions. The data tells you what to adjust.
Knowing you'll retest in a few weeks adds purpose to every workout. You're building toward a measurable goal, not just grinding away. And as you watch your numbers improve, you'll gain confidence that your summit ambitions are within reach.
"Training plans require adaptation to adjust to individuals' physiological differences, and benchmarks give you data points to make those adjustments."
For mountaineers, the most useful tests target aerobic endurance and strength. This reflects the dual nature of mountain climbing: you're moving for hours at moderate effort while also managing technical terrain or heavy packs that require solid strength.
Zone 1/2 Time Trials
Uphill Hike / Vertical Gain Test
3,000-Meter Test or Other Short Time Trials
Core & Leg-Focused Repetitions
Other Strength Benchmarks
"Our bodies take time to adapt to training, so benchmark tests are useful if done every month or 6 weeks. Over that time period you can expect to see improvement."
To get reliable data, replicate the conditions of each test as closely as possible:
"Be creative with creating your own benchmark tests. When you see how much time you've dropped on that uphill run, or how many more sit-ups you can do, you'll be more psyched to keep training." — Pete Van Deventer, RMI Expeditions
Testing isn't just about chasing numbers. It's about validating your hard work, adapting your plan to your actual needs, and staying motivated as your climb approaches.
By choosing tests that reflect real mountaineering demands—uphill speed, core strength, muscular endurance—you build a reliable feedback loop into your training. When summit day arrives, you can approach those steep slopes and loaded pack hauls with confidence, knowing you've tracked (and earned) every bit of progress along the way.
"A useful way to calm nerves is to do periodic benchmark tests. If you aren't seeing improvement, talk to a coach about how to adjust your training."
Stay consistent, be thoughtful in your testing, and watch your mountaineering fitness reach new heights.
]]>You're six hours into your summit push. Your legs feel like lead. Your brain is foggy. Even gentle slopes feel impossible. You just bonked, and there's still hours to go.
The bonk (also called "hitting the wall") is every climber's nightmare. It's that catastrophic energy crash that happens when your body runs out of its preferred fuel source: carbohydrates. And on long summit days that stretch from 12 to 15 hours or more, avoiding the bonk becomes critical to success.
The good news? You can train your body to burn fat more efficiently, preserving those limited carbohydrate stores and maintaining steady energy for the long haul. This guide breaks down how to become more "fat-adapted" so you can power through extended climbs without crashing.
When you're climbing for hours, starting in the dark, covering steep terrain, and facing changing weather, your body is under immense physical and mental stress. Success depends on two things:
While carbohydrate intake remains important (carbs provide high-octane energy for intense efforts), research increasingly shows that improving your fat burning capacity helps you maintain more stable energy output over extended climbs. By becoming more fat-adapted, you tap into a virtually unlimited energy supply, reducing the risk of depleting your glycogen stores too early.
Your body relies on two primary fuel sources:
Bonking (sometimes called "hitting the wall") occurs when muscle and liver glycogen reserves hit rock bottom. Common symptoms include:
What's Happening Physiologically
When glycogen is depleted, your body scrambles to produce glucose from alternative sources (often muscle protein or blood glucose), leading to rapid energy decline. That's why climbers carry snacks (energy gels, bars, candy) on the mountain: to replenish carbs in small increments and stave off a full bonk.
However, the body can only absorb about 250 calories of sugar per hour, which is far less than the total energy burned in a steep, multi-hour climb. Training your body to rely more on fat helps fill that energy gap.
Fat is energy-dense (about 9 calories per gram, more than twice the energy of carbohydrates). However, the body typically prioritizes carbohydrate usage, especially at higher intensities, because it's faster to break down for quick energy.
The secret to harnessing your fat reserves lies in two key strategies:
Key Biological Adaptations
The LCHF approach adjusts your daily food breakdown:
Sample LCHF Daily Meal Plan
Why Quinoa or Some Grains? A small portion of carbohydrate around training time can still be beneficial, especially for intense workouts or strength sessions.
Strict LCHF diets may hamper high-intensity bursts if taken to extremes. Some climbers prefer carb-cycling:
Note: The exact carb-to-fat ratio depends on personal response, training volume, and altitude requirements.
While adjusting your diet is crucial, pairing it with aerobic-focused workouts seals the deal. Fat burning thrives in sub-threshold or zone 2 intensities, typically 60 to 70 percent of your max heart rate, where you can still talk without gasping.
8-Week Aerobic Training Progression
Progress Tip: Monitor perceived exertion and heart rate drift. As you become fat-adapted, you'll maintain a lower heart rate at the same pace, indicating improved metabolic efficiency.
Fat adaptation isn't an overnight transformation. Expect 8 to 12 weeks of consistent dietary and training shifts before noticing significant changes like:
Common Challenge: The Adaptation Phase
The first 2 to 4 weeks can feel rough. Some people call this the "adaptation phase" or "low-carb flu," where energy levels fluctuate as your metabolism recalibrates. You might feel sluggish or foggy. This is normal. Ease into it, and avoid scheduling major summits or strenuous competitions during this transitional window.
Improving fat burning through diet and training is a proven approach for endurance sports, including mountaineering. By learning to tap into your near-limitless fat stores and preserve carbohydrate reserves, you reduce your risk of bonking and maintain more consistent, powerful performance over prolonged summit days.
With patience, consistency, and thoughtful adjustments, your body will respond by fueling climbs more efficiently, giving you the stamina to press on when others fade. Fat adaptation won't replace the value of carbohydrates completely, but it diversifies your energy options, ultimately supporting stronger, longer climbs in the high mountains.
Note: Nutrition and exercise plans should be tailored to individual needs and health conditions. Talk with a registered dietitian or medical professional for personalized guidance, especially if you have metabolic concerns, dietary restrictions, or ongoing health issues.
]]>Here's the truth: mountaineering asks a lot of your body. You need endurance to keep moving for hours. Strength to haul a heavy pack uphill. Balance to navigate tricky terrain. And the flexibility to recover quickly when conditions change.
Whether you're planning a multi-day expedition on Mount Rainier or heading for steep alpine routes elsewhere, a well-structured training program makes all the difference. You'll perform better, reduce your injury risk, and actually enjoy the climb instead of just surviving it.
This guide breaks down how to build your own mountaineering training plan. We'll cover the phases of smart periodization, how to develop a broad endurance base, and the essential components that make a strong mountain athlete. By the end, you'll have a personalized roadmap to get you summit-ready and apply to your 16 Week Training Plan template.
At its core, a solid mountain athlete is an endurance athlete. You need to handle a variety of intensity levels for long periods. Think carrying a heavy pack for hours of steady uphill, plus bursts of higher-intensity work when you hit challenging sections or need to move quickly through exposed terrain.
True endurance athletes excel at balancing long-and-steady efforts with short-and-explosive bursts on the same outing. That's exactly what mountains demand.
In the mountains, you need both working together so you can climb smoothly under load, adapt to unexpected terrain, and handle the demands of altitude.
"Training goals are critically important given the time constraints placed by weather, route conditions, objective hazards, and the effects of altitude."
Before you dive into the specifics, ask yourself these questions:
Getting clear on these points helps you design a realistic, purpose-driven plan that actually prepares you for what's ahead.
Aerobic Training
"In order to train for the exhausting days in the mountains, you've got to get out and do lengthy training climbs. Nothing else will prepare you as adequately."
Interval Training
Endurance (Motor Skill)
"Endurance isn't just about your lungs. Your muscles and connective tissues need resilience too."
Strength & Power Training
"In addition to leg strength, mountaineering requires a strong core (back and stomach) as heavy pack weights add a new dimension to climbing."
Balance & Agility
"Balance exercises give you increased body awareness and aid in your ability to negotiate tricky terrain."
Stretching & Flexibility
"Stretching helps reduce muscular tension and increases flexibility. Don't stretch through pain. Hold each stretch at the point of tension."
A general schedule might look like this with aerobic, strength, balance, and stretching all get woven in, and interval or strength training spaced about every third day to allow recovery.
Regularly measuring your gains keeps you motivated and shows if your training needs adjustment:
Aerobic Endurance Tests
Strength & Core Tests
Interval / High-Intensity Tests
Frequency: Test every 4 to 6 weeks. Use the data to adjust your plan. If your interval performance stalls, consider adding more rest or varying the intensity of your intervals.
Phase 1: Base Fitness
Phase 2: Mountaineering-Specific Emphasis
Phase 3: Final Climb Prep
(Adjust according to your phase, local terrain, and personal schedule.)
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Designing a mountaineering training program isn't just about logging miles or lifting weights. It's about sustainable progression, focused skill-building, and strategic rest. By weaving cardiovascular and motor fitness together over a three-phase timeline and layering in benchmarks along the way, you'll arrive at your expedition stronger, more confident, and ready for what's ahead.
No plan is set in stone. Adapt your routine to life's demands, weather, or emerging weaknesses you discover in training. The key is to stay flexible and committed. With a clear structure and balanced emphasis on endurance, strength, and skill, you'll enjoy the climb more, reduce the risk of injury, and come home with summit photos and a deeper appreciation for the journey.
Train well, climb safely, and savor every step of your mountaineering adventure.
]]>A Collection of Journal Entries From The Torre Valley - by Raymond Holt.
Introduction
Patagonia is a world renowned climbing destination and chances are, if you are reading this article, you have heard about it before. It is often seen by trekkers as a must-see location on their bucket list of travel destinations. To climbers, it is a far offland shrouded in mystery, adventure, and objective hazard. Where even the best of the best can have an “epic”, climbing for upwards of 43 hour pushes, or partake in the most fulfilling alpine adventures that exist.
I first heard of the range when I was twelve years old from Yvon Chouinard’s classic film, Mountain of Storms. When I was sixteen I had the privilege of seeing Mt. Fitz Roy with my own eyes while living in Argentina. The hanging glaciers, incredible scenery, and 2000 meter granite faces brought me to tears. At that moment I decided what I wanted to do with my life: become a climber.
After eight years of training all across the Western United States in all the various disciplines of rock, ice, and mixed climbing; my best friend and climbing partner made our first trip to the Massif. There we successfully achieved a little boy's dream of standing on top of the most inspiring mountain I have ever seen. Via the route that inspired it all, Chouinard’s Californiana. It was quite the surreal feeling.
Now we are back for another season and more motivated than ever! Each day out in the mountains I keep a journal. The following article includes snippets of life at Niponino, our basecamp in the Torre Valley for the following month, as well as accounts of the climbing.
Good Weather, Stunning Views, Salame
Today marks the start of our Patagonian Adventure. The holy grail of alpine climbing in the Americas. Splitter cracks on golden granite that seems to never end; pointy agujas and sheer faces towering up to 6000’ in vertical relief; all protected by long approaches, rime covered summits, and wind only patagonia could produce. What more could you ask for? Many travel thousands of miles just to catch a glimpse of the massif, all to be denied by the region’s fickle weather. As I write this from the comfort of our first light, I peak outside and see the thousand meter walls on either side of the torre valley rising high, both intimidating and deeply inspiring.
The walk into Niponino is not for the faint of heart though it starts offquite pleasurable. A meander through mystic forests like that of a children’s book brings you to Laguna Torre. From there you cross the famous Tyrolean to cross the river and start your ascent around the south side of the lake. The trail declines significantly until it disappears entirely. After a number of hops, skips, and jumps over dry glaciers and moraine you have the pleasure of making it to Niponino.
I felt quite ill on the approach and the packs were heavy, but Cerro Torre was in full view calling us home like a lighthouse during a storm. Encouraging us to continue on. We plan to spend a month in the sacred town of El Chalten and the Torre Valley will act as our basecamp. We have a somewhat windy weather window but a weather window all the same. Our goals are Rubio y Azul on the Medialuna (350m 6c) and Chiaro di Luna on Saint-Exupery (750m 6b+). Two five star climbs and area classics. Life is good.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
Splitters, Perseverance, A Strong Partner
I started feeling sick right before the 27 hour bus ride to El Chalten. I thought I could sleep the whole bus ride and feel better by the time we rolled into town. When that didn’t happen, I imagined the walk into Niponino would remedy my ailments. It is starting to seem like rest may be the only ticket. All that aside today we dusted offthe climbing cobwebs on Rubio y Azul after our respective winters in Colorado and Vermont. The approach was somewhat cumbersome and wandery in the dark. While descending the same scree field I came to the realization that maybe there is no easy way from Niponino to Noruegos where we gain the glacier.
We blasted offfrom the base of the route at 6:49am, racked and ready to go. We were full of both excitement and uncertainty. Climbing here carries the extra weight of no helicopter rescue always looming in the back of your mind. You truly are “on your own”. Jayden took the first four pitch block and I the second. Each block containing its own “money pitch”. The third pitch of my block before heading into Medialuna’s infamous chimney was the most enjoyable crack I have ever climbed in my life. Half way through the pitch of perfect hands the sun popped out for a few minutes and I had to appreciate where we were. Deep blue glaciers 1000’ below us on either side, Cerro Torre above us, and Mt. Fitz Roy at our backs. That brief moment was the last we would see of the sun all day. As we worked our way up the snow began to flurry and the winds picked up to 35-40mph.
Neither frozen hands nor sore feet could take away from the joy of standing on top. During the rappels we were briefly reminded of an experience we had descending Mt. Fitz Roy last season. High winds, equal stuck ropes. Luckily this time we eventually got our lifeline back and continued down cautiously. Back safely at Niponino we enjoy warm sleeping bags and full stomachs. The forecast is looking windier than before and I am feeling sicker than I would have hoped. Either way tomorrow is a rest day in one of the most inspiring campsites there is.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
Chocolate, Siestas, Stretching
Rest day. Last night snow and wind made us retreat to the tent fairly early. I slept for twelve hours. This morning the high pressure returned; sunny and windy. Large plumes of snow have been wisping offAdela Peak’s cornice covered summit all day. Not too much to tell today. Stretched our sore bodies, sorted gear, and watched our food supplies slowly dwindle away. Tomorrow we have decided to pivot to a different objective. Partly due to the forecasted winds, mostly on account of me still feeling under the weather. Our objective is still a worthy endeavor. The Frader-Pisafe (400m 6c+) on el Mocho is a striking line on an inspiring wall. Happy to be alive and have the freedom to do what I love.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
Weather, Partner you know and trust, Healthy Body - Jayden
El Mocho! Wow what a line. 1500’ of perfect granite sporting a 150m dihedral. Possibly the longest continuous corner system I have ever had the privilege to climb. This morning we got out of camp at 4:30am and made it to the base of the route by 6:00am. The approach was short by Patagonian standards but arduous. I got my foot wet while crossing the creek, and then went for a bit of a ride traversing the scree slope getting to Noruegos. Almost being crushed by a loose boulder about the size of a lawn mower. We set offat 6:30 just after finishing our last sips of coffee while racking up.
The first two pitches before gaining the dihedral were fun and bouldery but sparsely protected. The corner system had a wide variety of climbing styles: hands, finger cracks, stem problems where the seam petered out, and even some burly offwidth. The crux was a cool layback/undercling roof crack with an old rusty bolt right where you wanted it. Sometimes you clip these archaic bolts merely because they are there and make you feel warm and fuzzy rather than their actual utility in catching a leader's fall. It's what we call “psychological protection” in the climbing world. The summit was guarded by wet cracks and a long squeeze chimney which required careful footwork, tough elbow skin, and just enough grit to get by. In order to make it all the way to El Mocho’s summit you had to want it.
At the top a tear came to my eye. We could see from the Pollone group all the way to the turquoise blue water of Lago Viedma and beyond into the Patagonian desert. I looked at my best friend smiling ear to ear and couldn’t imagine a more perfect outing. Right offthe bat our rope stuck in the chimney on the way down. Without skipping a beat I led back up, freed the rope, and down climbed back to the anchor. Here in Patagonia the descents are very involved, there are little to no bolts on route. Only pitons; nuts; and old pieces of tat worn by the sun, wind, and rain are your way down. We went along lento y confiable, improving stations as we saw fit. Then skirted down slabs and scree happily back to camp. My nose sprung a leak covering my white sunhoody in blood which was the perfect excuse to wash offin the waterfalls coming offthe slabs by Noruegos.
All in all we were camp to camp sub eleven hours. Tomorrow we walk out back to Chalten to wait out the impending storm and rest our tired bodies. A successful primer pegue.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
Now we sit in Chalten, getting fat office cream and Asado awaiting the next good weather window. A few days of rest will do us good but we are excited to go back to the Massif. Stay Tuned!
Raymond Holt
IG: raymond__holt
A special thank you to the Wilhelms for supporting this trip. LiveLikeLuke.
]]>Written by RMI Expeditions Guide Sam Hoffman.
Earlier this winter, I had the opportunity to complete the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Ice Instructor Course, a five-day immersion into the craft of teaching, guiding, and moving efficiently through technical ice and mixed terrain. I took the course alongside two RMI guides, Calvin Jiricko and Raymond Holt. This course is an important step in any alpine guides path for the pursuit of professional standards in guiding.
The course focused on the skills required to instruct and guide technical ice climbing at a high level. We spent our days refining systems for leading, belaying, and managing guests on steep ice, as well as practicing instructional techniques that translate complex movement and risk management into clear, effective teaching. Beyond individual skills, there was a strong emphasis on decision-making, terrain assessment, and adapting techniques to real-world objectives—the same objectives many of our guests aspire to climb.
We started with shorter mixed and dry-tooling routes along Camp Bird Road outside of Ouray, dialing in precise movement and efficient systems on steep, technical terrain. Drytooling and mixed climbing begs the question: Why are you rock climbing with ice-tools in your hands? While it seems silly from a far, this is an engaging climbing method that helps with body positioning and movement to climb larger objectives. As the week progressed, we transitioned to longer waterfall ice routes near Silverton, Colorado, climbing up to seven pitches in a day.
Throughout the week, it was impossible not to draw direct connections to classic routes that RMI guides regularly teach and guide. The techniques we practiced are directly applicable to climbs like the Kautz Glacier on Mount Rainier, the North Ridge of Mount Baker, and more technical objectives in the Alaska Range. The course reinforced how foundational ice skills support success on big mountain routes.
(Photos/Raymond Holt)
One of the most valuable aspects of the experience was working closely with other RMI guides. I feel lucky to work alongside side guides like Ray and Calvin who’s passion for the craft reflects that of RMI’s guide team. If you have been lucky enough to share the rope with these two, their character speaks for itself. When a member of the public joins an RMI program, they benefit from guides who are aligned not only in technical systems, but also in teaching philosophy and decision-making under pressure.
Weeks like this reinforce why I’m proud to be part of programs that value ongoing education and teamwork. A very big thank you to RMI’s management for the support, Colorado based RMI guides who helped us prepare and allowed us to stay with them for the duration of the course, and of course the AMGA Instructor Team.
Written by RMI Expeditions Guide Layne Peters.
This fall, I had the chance to take the AMGA Rock Guide Course alongside a group of fellow RMI guides plus one colorado mountain guide. Spending a week immersed in climbing, anchors, and rescue systems with people I already work with on Mt. Rainier made the experience way more meaningful than I expected.
It wasn’t just another training course — it felt like an investment in the way we work together as a team.
Usually, AMGA courses bring together guides from all over — different companies, regions, and styles. But this one was different. Every participant, with the exception of one, was a guide from RMI. We already knew how each other moved in the mountains, how we communicated, and what it meant to trust one another with a rope.
That familiarity let us dive straight into learning. There was no awkward first-day feeling — just a crew of guides eager to sharpen skills we use every day on Rainier. Whether we were building complex anchors or running through rescue scenarios, the lessons always circled back to our work on the mountain.
It was cool to see how the systems we practiced on rock apply directly to glacier guiding. Belay transitions and rope management mirrored the efficiency we need during crevasse rescues. Anchoring principles connected perfectly to snow and ice protection. Every day, I found myself thinking, “Yeah — this is going to make me better on Rainier.”
One of the biggest takeaways was how much we learned from each other. When you guide together, you see each other at work — on summit days, in bad weather, managing clients — but rarely do you get to slow down and talk through the finer points of technique and decision-making.
The course created that space. We broke down systems, compared habits, and saw firsthand how each of us handles pressure. It was like watching a behind-the-scenes version of our guiding style — and it gave me a deeper respect for the people I climb with.
You can’t really fake trust in the mountains, and doing this course together reinforced it. I left feeling even more confident in my teammates — not just their technical ability, but their judgment, their calm, and their communication.
By the end of the week, it was clear that what we learned on the rock wasn’t staying there. The efficiency we practiced building anchors transfers directly to glacier travel. The rescue drills mirror what we do in crevasse systems. Even just thinking through client management and transitions has huge value on big alpine climbs.
It’s easy to think of professional development as checking boxes or earning credentials, but this course was way more than that. It reminded me that guiding is a craft — something you can always refine. And doing that alongside people who share the same goals and terrain made it all the more worthwhile.
I left the course feeling proud — not just of what we learned, but of the kind of guides we’re becoming together. There’s something special about learning with the same crew you’ll be roped up with at 14,000 feet on Rainier.
We came away better technically, sure, but also tighter as a team. More in sync. More thoughtful about how we move and communicate. And in the guiding world, that matters just as much as all the rest.
]]>Let’s be honest: no one wakes up ready for glaciated ridges, 2 a.m. starts, or that final hour when your legs feel like overcooked noodles. The bridge between where you are today and where you want to be on bigger mountains is built, step by step, with time on trail. That is exactly why trekking shines. It is accessible, it is high-value training for the body and mind, and it delivers an adventure that stands on its own.
Below, we’ll cover why trekking is such powerful preparation for mountaineering, how it builds real expedition skills, why many climbers treat treks as “low-risk altitude labs,” and where RMI treks fit into that progression.
Trekking stacks long, steady efforts over varied terrain. That is the sweet spot for improving aerobic capacity and muscular endurance, which in turn supports better pacing and decision-making on summit pushes. Research shows hiking/trekking improves cardiovascular health and muscle endurance, especially when routes include hills and uneven surfaces that challenge balance and stabilizers.
Carrying a backpack for hours at moderate intensity trains your posture, hips, and core in ways a stationary bike cannot. Load carriage research highlights the unique respiratory and metabolic demands of walking uphill with a pack, which is exactly what you will do on approach days and during glacier travel. The goal is not maximal weight, but consistent, good-form time under load to adapt connective tissue and reduce injury risk.
Nature time reduces stress, improves mood and attention, and helps you recover psychologically from hard training blocks. That matters. Calm brains make better decisions when the weather turns or plans change at altitude. Systematic reviews and position statements consistently show meaningful mental health benefits from nature-based activity like trekking.
One of the smartest reasons to trek before a mountaineering objective is to learn how your body responds to elevation without the pressure of a summit clock. Wilderness Medical Society guidelines emphasize gradual ascent, “climb high, sleep low” strategies, and rest days to lower the risk of acute mountain sickness. Classic trekking itineraries make that cadence natural.
You will practice the fundamentals that really move the needle at altitude: slow pacing, steady hydration, and honest self-monitoring for headache, nausea, or sleep disruption. That experience transfers directly to bigger climbs later on. Practical advice from alpine organizations echoes this approach, including building in extra acclimatization days and, when possible, using nearby peaks to pre-acclimatize before a higher objective.
Learning your sustainable “all-day” pace is gold. Treks teach you to read your breathing and legs, not your ego, and to fuel before you fade. Those habits keep rope teams efficient when the terrain turns technical.
Multi-day travel forces discipline around sleep, foot care, layering, sun protection, and hydration. These are the quiet skills that prevent small problems from ending big objectives.
You’ll move in wind, rain, heat, and cool mornings. You’ll make thousands of micro-decisions about traction, balance, and poles. That familiarity lowers cognitive load when you later add ropework or crampons.
On long treks, groups become teams. You’ll practice communication, honest check-ins, and that gentle nudge that keeps everyone moving. Those social skills matter just as much on summit pushes as a perfect figure-eight.
Each trek below can be an end goal or a strategic stepping stone toward bigger climbs. We’ve noted what each tends to build particularly well.
Kilimanjaro is the world’s highest freestanding mountain and a classic high-altitude trek with little glacier travel. Expect big aerobic days and textbook acclimatization, with a summit push that rewards smart pacing and steady nutrition. It is ideal for learning how your body handles 5,000+ meters while practicing camp routines and recovery day to day.
A cultural and altitude masterclass rolled into one. EBC’s gradual ascent profile, rest days, and “climb high, sleep low” side hikes mirror best-practice acclimatization guidance. You will refine layering, hydration, and pacing at elevations where many people first feel the real effects of thin air.
Quieter than the main EBC corridor and equally rich in altitude practice. Crossing high passes and visiting the turquoise Gokyo Lakes demands consistent pacing and solid nutrition strategies. The views from Gokyo Ri are a powerful “internal summit” moment and a confidence boost for future mountaineering.
Think “endurance and culture.” Long trail days at moderate to high elevation polish aerobic capacity, footwork on stone steps, and recovery routines. It is a perfect build phase for climbers, and an unforgettable standalone adventure for trekkers.
Wind, weather, and long mileage days in world-class scenery. Patagonia teaches you to adapt quickly, protect calories and warmth, and stay positive when the forecast has “character.” Strong expedition self-care here pays dividends on future alpine routes.
Plenty of athletes choose trekking as the finish line, not just a training block. That choice makes total sense. Treks deliver immersive travel, culture, and big-landscape awe without the technical risks of mountaineering. They are physically honest, mentally restorative, and deeply social. The science backs that up, too: time in nature improves mood and reduces stress while you build durable, low-impact fitness that supports health for years.
Trekking is not “just hiking.” It is targeted endurance work, high-value altitude learning, and a masterclass in expedition self-care. It builds the engine and the habits that carry you when a glacier, a headlamp, and your own grit are all you have. Whether your dream is a high camp sunrise on a big mountain or a lifetime of trail-first travel, trekking moves you there, one steady day after another.
If you are mapping your path, start with an itinerary that excites you: a cultural arc to Everest Base Camp or Gokyo, a wind-polished week in Torres del Paine, a bucket-list push on Kilimanjaro, or a history-rich walk to Machu Picchu. Treat it as both adventure and training. Your future self, standing higher, calmer, and more prepared, will be very glad you did.
In mountaineering, success isn’t just measured by tagging summits — it’s about returning safely, making good decisions under pressure, and preserving the space between what’s possible and what’s wise. We won’t ever be able to control precisely what happens in the mountains, or negate risk entirely, but we can hedge our bets with a proven tool, a margin of safety.
This margin of safety is what keeps climbers alive in unpredictable, high-consequence environments. Let’s look at what it means, how to create it on the mountain, and how RMI makes it the foundation of every climb.
At its core, a margin of safety is a buffer between capacity and risk. It’s the cushion you leave for error, bad luck, or the unexpected.
The concept is universal. Engineers call it a factor of safety — designing a bridge or skyscraper to withstand far more stress than it will ever face in normal use. Pilots don’t load just enough fuel to reach their destination; they carry reserves in case of delays or diversions. Surgeons plan procedures with contingencies for complications. Investors avoid putting all their capital into a single stock, keeping extra cushion to absorb shocks.
The principle is the same across disciplines: build in more than you think you need, because reality is unpredictable.
Mountains simply make the stakes more immediate. A margin of safety on a climb isn’t an abstract number on a blueprint or a balance sheet — it’s a decision that can mean the difference between coming home or not. On the mountain, this margin might look like setting an earlier turnaround time, carrying extra insulation in case of an unplanned bivy, or stopping short of the summit when the weather or snowpack erases your buffer.
Margins don’t appear by accident — they’re created through preparation, awareness, and choices in the moment. And the best way to understand them is to connect mountaineering examples to everyday industries where safety margins are more familiar.
In climbing, moving too slowly eats away at your margin; energy, weather, and daylight are all finite resources. Guides make decisions in real time based on shifting conditions, the forecast, and the strength of the team.
Just like a pilot carries extra fuel, we aim to preserve a buffer of time and energy, not because we always expect to use it, but because the mountains often demand flexibility. Building and protecting that margin ensures enough capacity for a safe descent and recognizes that the summit is only one step in the bigger objective: returning safely.
Snow bridges, rockfall, and storms are the mountain’s way of narrowing your buffer. Climbers who push ahead in deteriorating conditions are like drivers ignoring a “low fuel” light in the desert — technically possible to continue, but leaving no room for error. A margin of safety means recognizing when conditions have closed the gap too far and turning back before risk overtakes reason.
Redundancy is margin. Carrying an extra headlamp, a backup layer, or a few hundred more calories than you expect can feel excessive until the climb takes longer than planned. In aviation, planes are built with multiple redundant systems for the same reason — if one fails, the backup prevents catastrophe. On the mountain, your “backup system” may be as simple as dry gloves or a second light source.
One climber’s condition can shift the margin for everyone. A fatigued rope-mate, poor pacing, or altitude issues can slow the group and increase exposure to hazards. In medicine, this is like a surgical team pausing a procedure if one member notices something wrong — the decision protects the patient, even if it means stepping back. While this can often mean a turnaround decision for a small climbing team, at RMI, we utilize our ratios and guide training to help as many climbers summit as possible, even if some need to turn around.
One of the greatest threats to a margin of safety isn’t physical — it’s psychological. Ian McCammon’s landmark study on avalanche accidents revealed how heuristics (mental shortcuts) lead climbers into danger. The familiarity heuristic makes us trust terrain we’ve seen before, even if conditions are different. The commitment heuristic convinces us to keep going simply because we’ve already invested so much time and energy. These traps appear everywhere in life — like investors holding onto a failing stock because they’ve already “sunk” money into it. Recognizing these tendencies is the first step in countering them and preserving your safety buffer.
“I could see the summit up ahead and my hazy mental math told me that I would be there in less than two hours if I maintained the same pace. The only problem was that I hadn't felt my toes in quite some time and no amount of stomping or swinging my legs had helped. Without any other option, I got out my shovel, dug a human sized hole in the slope and climbed in. Taking off my boots, I massaged my numb feet, but the feeling just wouldn't come back. No matter how hard I rubbed the tips of my toes were still white.
I sat there trying to manifest feeling and convince my commitment-to-safety that two more hours wouldn't cost me my toes, but I knew the truth. After what felt like an eternity of internal struggle I put my boots back on, radioed my teammates and started to walk back down the ridge toward camp. That walk was one of the longest of my life. It wasn't just how slowly I moved, it was the pace of coming to terms with my decision- I was 43 days into my first Himalayan expedition and I turned around less than 100 vertical meters from the summit. The trip had cost most of my life savings, and the six months of hard training leading up to it had convinced me I was ready for the challenge. My climbing career had mostly been filled with summits, and it was the first time I ever had to make a decision of that scale.
I've turned around on plenty of climbs, for a multitude of reasons, in the years since then, but my mind often goes to that day when I'm weighing options. I'm still able to climb and guide with ten toes today because I made the hard, but correct choice that day.”- Eric Frank, RMI Guide
Adjusting Your Margin
Always remember that your required margins of safety can change from climb to climb; on climbs or in conditions with greater uncertainty, your margins should increase.
At RMI, creating a margin of safety isn’t an afterthought — it’s built into every climb. While clients may not see the behind-the-scenes systems, they benefit from the discipline, culture, and training that underpin RMI’s operations.
RMI was the first guide service on Mount Rainier to implement an OSHA-recognized Safety Committee. We’ve also undergone and excelled in Washington Labor & Industries voluntary safety audits. These initiatives don’t just satisfy regulations — they demonstrate a culture where risk is managed proactively, not reactively.
Every RMI guide goes through rigorous training in technical skills, but also in risk management and decision-making. They learn to recognize the subtle signs of hypothermia, altitude illness, or exhaustion in clients — often before clients notice it themselves. This foresight allows them to call for rests, pace adjustments, or even turnarounds before the margin of safety disappears.
Margins are also built into our ratios, pacing, and route planning. RMI guides are empowered to make conservative calls when needed, prioritizing safety over summits. The expectation is not to squeeze out every possible vertical foot, but to preserve an appropriate safety margin for the team.
Being part of a High Reliability Organization means small errors aren’t ignored — they’re logged, learned from, and used to strengthen the system. At RMI, guides and supervisors foster a culture where raising concerns is encouraged, and the hard decision to turn back is respected as the hallmark of professionalism.
Margins of safety don’t make climbs less adventurous — they make them more sustainable. Every climber eventually faces the choice between pressing on or turning back. The difference between tragedy and a story worth retelling often lies in how much margin you had when the decision came.
For RMI, those margins aren’t just abstract — they’re the reason our teams continue to climb safely, year after year. Because while summits are optional, coming home isn’t.
This last weekend, I tried for a summit attempt on the north side of Mount Hood. I felt strong, confident in my climbing, and was with a great group. When we made the call to turn around just under 10,000 feet because of overhead hazard, I was a little bummed. Still, I was also incredibly grateful for the situational awareness of my climbing partners and the good times we had already had.
If you spend enough time in the mountains, you’ll eventually face the climb where you don’t reach the top. It can happen to anyone (novice or seasoned alpinist) and it’s one of the most humbling realities of mountaineering. Success in the mountains isn’t defined solely by standing on a summit. It’s also about making smart decisions, staying safe, and learning along the way.
Here’s how to think about, and deal with, not summiting, whether the factors are within your control or entirely out of your hands.
Mountaineering environments are ripe for cognitive traps. Heuristics (mental shortcuts we use to make decisions) can cloud judgment when stakes are high and adrenaline is pumping. Ian McCammon, an internationally recognized expert on accident avoidance has identified common decision-making errors such as the “familiarity heuristic” (choosing what feels comfortable over what is safe) and “commitment heuristic” (pressing on because you’ve already invested time and effort). Being aware of these tendencies can help climbers pause and reassess more rationally. The key is to stay objective, especially when emotions are running high.
There are plenty of variables you can influence before and during a climb. Fitness, gear, nutrition, hydration, and mindset; these are all your responsibility. Underestimating the physical demands of a big alpine day or failing to stay hydrated and fueled can lead to exhaustion and mistakes that jeopardize the climb. Staying proactive about your self-care helps you and your team.
But then there are the factors no climber can control. Weather windows, avalanche hazard, rockfall, route conditions, and the decisions of others on the mountain can all conspire to shut down a summit attempt. For example, deteriorating snow bridges or high winds can close off a viable route overnight on Mount Rainier. Even the most prepared climbers sometimes turn around because the risks outweigh the rewards. As climber and former RMI Guide Ed Viesturs said, “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
Not summiting stings. But it doesn’t have to define your experience.
One of the best ways to handle a change of plans is to reframe what “success” looks like before you even clip into a rope. Research from Harvard Business Review on building resilience emphasizes the importance of seeing setbacks as part of the growth process; feedback, not failure.
Mountains aren’t just for standing on top of; they’re for being in. Gritty ice underfoot. Wind tearing at tents. The silence of early morning snowfields. The way a group of strangers becomes a team. These are real wins, even if you don’t get the perfect summit photo.
"Although the mountain’s infamous weather system ultimately prevented our team from making a summit bid, we are deeply satisfied with the gifts that The Great One has provided us. We were awed by the austere beauty of the Kahiltna and and vastness of the surrounding peaks and ridges. We were pushed to our limits and learned to dig deeper than ever before; whether it be cramponing on blue ice, being blown around on Windy Corner, struggling with all things altitude, or keeping our extremities warm in -40F windchill. We - a group of strangers prior to May 13 - became not only friends but teammates, encouraging each other in our hardest times, cheering each others’ successes, and cracking the most ridiculous and obscene jokes all day and late into the night."
- RMI Climber Grace, on Mount McKinley, 2025
Experienced guides often recognize warning signs long before a climber does: the early fog of hypothermia, the shift from fatigue to dangerous exhaustion, the way someone’s stride changes when they’re hitting a wall. In a group setting, the guide isn’t just watching one climber; they’re managing an acceptable margin of safety for the entire team. That means, tough as it is to hear, your summit attempt might end early if your pace or actions are putting others in danger.
Their job isn’t to push you to the top, no matter what. It’s to bring you home safely, and to make the call when the mountain says no.
“One of the inspiring and simultaneously frustrating pieces of mountaineering is that no climb is the same. The complexity of the route, matrix of risks, and physical demand continually change. What worked on one climb may not in a subsequent one. Those differences are what keep you in the moment and are a critical component of the reward.”
- Pete Van Deventer, RMI Expeditions Guide
Having a professional at the helm allows you to focus on your own experience while they keep the bigger picture in mind.
Sometimes the climb that teaches you the most is the one that ends just shy of the top. Every step on the mountain, even the ones that turn back, is part of a bigger journey toward becoming a more vigorous, more self-aware climber.
Sources
At 64 years old, Brent Okita has done something no one else ever has: he’s stood on the summit of Mount Rainier for the 600th time. That new world record alone is staggering. But it doesn’t tell the whole story, not even close.
Brent has been guiding with RMI Expeditions since 1986. That’s nearly four decades of early alpine starts, whiteout navigation, bluebird summits, and shoulder-season storms. It’s thousands of clients coached up the Muir Snowfield, hundreds of rope teams safely guided down Disappointment Cleaver, and an untold number of wise decisions that kept people safe, calm, and moving upward.
He’s summited Rainier more than anyone in history. When asked how he feels on the summit, Brent said:
“It feels great, we have perfect weather up here and a perfect group and I couldn’t be happier.”
Brent’s reputation in the guiding world goes far beyond Rainier. He summited Everest in 1991 via the North Ridge (the same line climbed by Mallory and Irvine in 1924) and returned in 2001 as part of the famed Mallory-Irvine Search Expedition. He has guided 23 consecutive successful McKinley expeditions in Denali National Park, led climbs on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and mountains around the world. But Mount Rainier has always been home base.
There’s something fitting about that. Rainier isn’t just a proving ground for new alpinists; it’s a teacher. It rewards patience, consistency, and care. Brent has made a life of listening to that mountain.
He’s also helped shape what it means to be an RMI guide. As a Senior Guide and longtime Supervisor, Brent has mentored generations of young guides, passing down not just rope systems and crampon techniques, but the values that define our work: humility, precision, compassion, and perseverance.
When asked if he has any advice for future guides, Brent said:
"Guides, pay attention to what's happening out there... it's the details that really matter. I think that's why I've had such a successful life; I pay attention to the details."
Ask any guide who’s worked a climb with Brent, and you’ll hear the same thing: he leads by example. Quietly. Steadily. With the kind of grace that’s earned, not taught.
Climbing Rainier 600 times means spending close to two years of your life above 10,000 feet. It means learning every subtle shift in the glacier’s surface. It means knowing how the sun hits the Cleaver in late June and where to find shelter in a whiteout at 13,000 feet. But most of all, it means showing up, day after day, year after year, with care, professionalism, and joy.
Back in 2016, when Brent completed his 500th summit of Rainier, someone asked him if retirement was on the horizon. His answer? “I’ll keep guiding for the foreseeable future.” This time, when asked what's next, Brent said:
"More climbing, more Mount Rainier, it's what I do!"
Over hundreds of climbs, Brent has built more than a record; he’s built relationships. For many clients, their time with Brent on the mountain is transformative, not just because of the summit, but because of who was leading the way.
Dan Kemp recalls a moment when Brent made the tough call to turn back due to unsafe conditions. "I know we could have made it to the top," he said, "but Brent didn’t like how unsafe the second route was. I admire that." That trust in his judgment is a consistent theme across client stories.
Mark Tellez described him as "everything you would hope for in a mountain guide," adding, "He had our trust on the mountain. He is understanding but also firm when required to keep folks moving and things safe."
For James Huggins, the impact was deeply personal. "There was just something about him that made me feel like this was going to work out," he wrote. "His calm, straightforward and subtle humor resonated with me... Having him embrace me at the crater was a moment I’ll never forget."
These are the proof that Brent (and all our guides) impact goes far beyond statistics. He builds confidence, fosters camaraderie, and turns big mountain experiences into lifelong memories.
For all of us at RMI, Brent’s 600th summit isn’t just a personal achievement; it’s a moment of reflection and gratitude. It reminds us what’s possible when passion meets purpose. When experience is paired with humility. When a lifetime of small, thoughtful decisions adds up to something extraordinary.
We’re proud to call Brent a colleague, a mentor, and a friend. And we’re honored to celebrate this milestone with the broader mountaineering community. Because while summits may be counted one at a time, legacies are built over seasons, years, and relationships forged on the rope.
Congratulations, Brent. And thank you for kicking the steps, the teaching, and the example you’ve set for all of us.
]]>Mt. McKinley vs. Denali
At RMI Expeditions, our commitment is to the mountains, the people who climb them, and the cultures that surround them.
A Mountain Known by Many Names
Long before maps or government proclamations, North America's tallest peak was called by the names of the Indigenous peoples who have lived in and around it for thousands of years. Among the Koyukon Athabaskan people, the mountain is "Denali," meaning "The High One." The Dena'ina of the Susitna River Valley call it "Dghelay Ka’a" - "The Big Mountain."
During Alaska’s Russian period, it was known as "Bolshaya Gora," Russian for "Big Mountain."
In 1896, an American prospector named William Dickey gave the peak a new name: "Mount McKinley," after then-presidential candidate William McKinley. Dickey’s choice wasn’t neutral - it was politically motivated, a symbolic nod to the gold standard during a heated national debate. The name was cemented federally in 1917 and persisted for over a century, despite local resistance and Indigenous advocacy.
In 1975, the Alaska State Legislature formally requested the mountain be renamed Denali. That request was blocked in Congress by representatives from McKinley’s home state of Ohio for decades. It wasn’t until 2015 that then-Secretary of the Interior, Sally Jewell, used her authority to officially change the name to Denali at the federal level.
For more information on the naming history, please see RMI’s Denali Cultural Landscape.
May 6, 1794 - The historical first European sighting of Denali by George Vancouver when he was surveying the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet and mentioned "distant stupendous mountains" in his journal. However, he uncharacteristically left the mountain unnamed. Vancouver was also the explorer who first named Mt. Rainier.
1800s - During the Russian ownership of Alaska (pre-1867), the common name for the mountain was Bolshaya Gora ("big mountain" in Russian).
1889 - The first English name applied to the peak was Densmore's Mountain or Densmore's Peak, for the gold prospector Frank Densmore who had fervently praised the mountain's majesty; however, the name persevered only locally and informally.
1893 - The mountain is first named on a map by Ferdinand von Wrangel with the name "Tenada."
1896 - The mountain was first designated "Mt. McKinley" by Seattleite William A. Dickey who led a gold prospecting dig in the sands of the Susitna River in June 1896. The name Mt. McKinley was inspired by William McKinley of Ohio who had been nominated for the Presidency and the fact that it was the first news they received when they left the wilderness. By most accounts, the naming was politically driven; Dickey had met many silver miners who zealously promoted Democratic presidential candidate William Jennings Bryan's ideal of a silver standard, inspiring him to retaliate by naming the mountain after a strong proponent of the gold standard. The naming was further reinforced after McKinley's assassination that led to sentiment favoring commemoration of his memory.
February 26, 1917 - President Woodrow Wilson signed the park bill that created the beginnings of McKinley National Park and officially named the great mountain Mt. McKinley.
1975 - The Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name of the mountain to Denali, and, at Governor Jay Hammond's behest, the Alaska Legislature officially requested that the United States Board on Geographic Names (BGN), the federal governmental body responsible for naming geographic features in the United States, change the name of the mountain from "Mount McKinley" to "Mount Denali." Ohio congressman Ralph Regula (whose district included Canton, where McKinley spent much of his life) opposed action by the U.S. Board and was able to prevent it.
1977 - With Secretary Morton no longer at the helm of the Department of the Interior, the Board again prepared to consider the name change, but Regula gathered signatures from every member of the Ohio congressional delegation against renaming Mt. McKinley, and no ruling was made.
December 2, 1980 - With President Jimmy Carter's signing into law of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA), McKinley National Park was incorporated into a larger protected area named Denali National Park and Preserve. Naming the new, larger park Denali, while retaining the name Mt. McKinley for the actual mountain was thought to be a compromise by many "Mt. McKinley" partisans. However, "Denali" advocates rejected the position arguing the naming created confusion.
1981 - Regula used a procedural maneuver to prevent any change to the Mt. McKinley name. Under U.S. Board on Geographic Names policy, the Board cannot consider any name-change proposal if congressional legislation relating to that name is pending. Thus Regula began a biennial legislative tradition of either introducing language into Interior Department appropriation bills, or introducing a stand-alone bill that directed that the name of Mt. McKinley should not be changed. This effectively killed the Denali name-change proposal pending with the Board.
2009 - The retirement of Regula reinvigorated interest in renaming the mountain. Despite efforts in Alaska, Ohio Representatives Betty Sutton and Tim Ryan assumed Regula's role as congressional guardians of the Mt. McKinley name.
January 2015 – A bill submitted by Alaska Senator Lisa Murkowski re-proposed renaming North America's highest peak as Denali.
August 30, 2015 – Sally Jewell announced that the mountain would be renamed Denali, under authority of federal law which permits her as Secretary of the Interior to name geographic features if the Board of Geographic Names does not act within a "reasonable" period of time.
January 2025 - In December 2024, President-elect Donald Trump stated that he planned to revert the mountain's federal name to Mount McKinley during his second term. Trump's proposal was met with criticism from many prominent Alaskans. Upon his inauguration in January 2025, Trump signed executive order Restoring Names That Honor American Greatness which changed the mountain's official federal name back to Mount McKinley.
What’s Changed, and Why We’re Using “Mount McKinley”
In January 2025, the current administration signed an executive order titled Restoring Names That Honor American Greatness. This action reversed the 2015 federal decision, reinstating the name Mount McKinley as the official federal name of the mountain. The surrounding area remains Denali National Park and Preserve.
We received a formal directive in February 2025, from the National Park Service stating that all references to the mountain must now read "Mount McKinley" in promotional materials, maps, and communications.
As an official concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve, RMI Expeditions is bound by contract to follow all federal naming guidelines, including those laid out by the U.S. Board on Geographic Names and the Department of the Interior.
For us, this is a matter of legal compliance. To continue offering safe, guided expeditions to this incredible peak, we abide by the regulations that govern our concession.
We will continue climbing with purpose, honoring the legacy of Denali National Park and Preserve and its people while complying with the regulations that allow us to share this incredible peak with others.
- The RMI Team
]]>In 2025, Seth Burn's RMI Expeditions McKinley expedition team decided to do something little different with their daily Expedition Dispatches. Instead of the normal news-bulletin updates, we got some very creative dispatches in the forms of bullets, fantasy scenarios, musings, and more. This blog captures some of their best work, and shows how climbers fill their days on the highest peak in North America.
Although they didn't make the summit due to weather, this team showed us the definition of "it's the journey, not the destination." If you're looking for insight into what it's like on "The Great One", this should give you a decent idea. The most impressive part? All this was sent via satellite communication devices, which aren't known for facilitating great wordplay.
Friday, May 16, 2025
We started our day with breakfast at latitude 62 and ended our day with dinner at latitude 62. Can anyone guess where our day will start tomorrow?!
We spent the morning talking about the finer points of Denali climbing while learning and practicing some new skills. In the afternoon, our pilots at K2 along with the Denali base camp manager saw a break in the weather. Giddy with excitement, we loaded up the plane with all of our bags, put on our mountain clothes, and patiently waited for our chance for take off. Unfortunately, mountain weather can be a fickle beast and the mountain wasn't ready to let us in just yet. We became mesmerized by some classic Denali climbing films and fantasized about when we would soon be in those very spots.
Waiting is inevitable in the mountains, but always hard, especially at the beginning of a trip. I could not be more proud of our team's attitude. They are taking everything in stride and with a smile. We are enjoying constant laughs, telling stories, and building camaraderie that will enable us to run when our feet hit the ground. We will be ready to fly when our time comes. Hopefully that time is tomorrow morning!
RMI Guides Jackson, Ray, Seth and Team
Photos by expedition member Will Sutila
May 20, 2025
Elevation: 7,800'
Well, we woke up this morning to much better weather. Headed over to the cook tent for a quick bowl or two of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and coffee. Breakfast of champions! We got our sleds and packs ready to set off for our first cache of the expedition. Everybody was anxious to get going after a great rest day. Many other teams had the same idea, and we certainly didn’t mind a few of them in front of us breaking trail after we got about a foot of snow at camp in the last 24hrs. All three teams were moving great up the mountain led by our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray. They rock! We had three breaks on the way up and as we moved up the mountain, clouds and a wisp of wind and snow started to move in. We reached 10,200' and cached our gear and food. Super nice being able to walk downhill with a light pack and no sled! We made our way quickly downhill passing teams as we did on the way up. We are now snug back at our lower camp waiting for what we know will be an amazing dinner of jambalaya. Being originally from Louisiana and all…no pressure on Chef Ray. Ha!
Our team is really firing on all cylinders and feeling good. Happy for that! Hydrating, fixing feet and getting some rest are on the agenda after dinner. Oh, and the skies parted on the way back a bit giving us spectacular views when we arrived back at camp, so grateful to be in this moment.
RMI Climber Shannon and Team
May 21, 2025
Elevation: 11,000'
Dear Baby Winter,
Just like in the book that we read before coming out here, “Oh the Places, You’ll Go,” today our group walked through an area that I can’t wait to tell you all about. We started this morning not entirely sure if we were going to continue up today due to the weather being a little iffy but Seth made the call for us to venture out with the goal of reaching 11,000' Camp. The walk up was incredibly challenging, the combination of wind and snow with weighted packs and sleds, made this climb like nothing I’ve ever done. The weather created what seemed to be a complete white out, like walking through a cloud. With only being able to differentiate by looking around at my fellow climbers. Thinking of you and your mother pushed me forward and most importantly our excellent guides kept us safe while out there. Each day that I’m here, Denali continues to teach me something that I hope to one day hand down to you and that’s that sometimes the most rewarding moments in life, are the ones that you’ve earned through working for them. Now it’s time for a hot meal, we’re having ramen tonight, cant wait! I miss you more than words will allow.
Love Dad (Juan)
May 23, 2025
Elevation: 11,200'
The hottest new restaurant in Alaska is Maureen’s, currently located at the 11K camp on Denali. Started by a trio of up-and-coming chefs (Jackson, Ray, and Seth), who also happen to moonlight as mountain guides, Maureen’s serves up delicious Tex-Mex fare with Asian and Creole inspirations, reflective of the chefs’ diverse backgrounds. “Corn is pretty much my greatest inspiration; I can turn a tortilla into just about anything,” says Chef Jackson, citing his Iowan roots. The pop-up restaurant is small, seating 9 and squatting 1.
On a busy night of service, guests can hear Chef “Sweet Baby” Ray rapping to OutKast with an inexplicably thick Eastern European accent while whipping up a jambalaya in the open kitchen. The portions are generous, much appreciated on big efforts such as caching heavy packs of gear up to 13K ft.
When not working the breakfast shift, Chef Seth runs front of house, chatting up the regulars and offering sweet words of affirmation, which they desperately need to wake up each morning. There is relatively little to complain about, except maybe the limited beverage list (despite the chefs’ weird insistence on tasting the glacial terroir — it’s just hot water), the overpowering red polyester decor (reportedly Maureen’s favorite color), and the ever-present undertones of body odor. Dress code is casual, although insulated down is highly recommended. Gluten-free options are available upon request.
– Jason
May 24, 2025
Elevation: 14, 200'
Happy Friday Everyone!
To our family and friends back at home, I’m excited to share that we have made it to Camp 3—14,200’—a huge milestone in our journey! This is where we will call home for the next week or so while we acclimatize and hit the fixed lines around 17,000’ to prepare for summit attempts.
Today we woke up to a cool, crisp, bluebird sky, and that meant one thing: we were packing up Camp 2 and headed to Camp 3. After a quick breakfast, we packed up our camp, stuffed our packs to the breaking point, and loaded a couple of sleds with all our gear and food.
It was time to trade in our snowshoes and put on our crampons. That’s right—it was time to go climbing, finally! As we headed out with an ice axe in one hand and a trekking pole in the other, we stared up at Motorcycle Hill. It was time to go to work.
We had a 35-degree pitch with roughly 1,000’ of gain. From there, we made our way to Squirrel Hill—another 30-degree pitch—then up to the Polo Fields, where we finally got a bit of flatter terrain. The views are like no other and bring grace to the grind.
Then it was up and around Windy Corner, which didn’t disappoint, greeting us with some lovely wind :). We continued to embrace the day as we made our last push into Camp 3. We are home! Our biggest push in one day with 3,000’ of vertical gain.
As I sit here and write this—and I know the team feels the same—with a sunburnt face, a back that feels like it carried an elephant, and feet that feel like they ran an ultramarathon, I couldn’t be more grateful and proud of this team and all we’ve accomplished over the past six days. Getting to Camp 3 took everything we’ve got—congrats, team!
To our guides: every day you continue to inspire us, nail the weather reports, and keep us moving upward. Thank you for all your efforts!
That’s all for now—time for dinner (bacon mac and cheese!) and some much-needed rest days. Onward and upward this team goes! Keep sending the positive vibes and prayers our way—they’re working!
- Will
Photos by expedition member Will Sutila
May 26, 2025
Elevation: 14,000'
We continue to hang at 14,000' Camp, acclimatizing, resting, going on small walks to stretch our achy legs, and working on the skills that we will need to ascend the higher reaches of the mountain. After a leisurely morning, our guides had us practice using our ascenders, clipping in and out of anchors, clipping in and out of anchors, and descending the fixed lines using the trusty arm wrap. We repeated until Seth was confident that we could perform these drills with cold hands.
As the pace of life has slowed during this phase of the expedition and we have many (many) hours in the tent with our own thoughts, I’ve curated my top 5 life hacks from the top of North America:
1. Say goodbye to dish detergent and sponge - fresh powdery snow makes a great all-natural scrub for cleaning your single bowl, mug, and spork. Just step outside, grab a handful of nature’s Dawn, and get to work! Please be sure you select a patch of snow that is indeed white.
2. Alternatively, forget the dish washing routine altogether and embrace the complex layerings of flavor that can only be experienced when you brew tea in the same mug as last night’s corn soup, or slurp Cinnamon Toast Crunch with undertones of Madras Lentils.
3. Worried that your sticky-fingers roommate will take your last slice of leftover pizza, or a sneaky coworker will swipe your oat milk creamer AGAIN? Here’s what you gotta do: wrap your precious perishables in a trash bag and bury it deep in the snow! Your goodies will stay cold and fresh, and hidden from greedy scavengers. Just budget a good 20 minutes to dig it up when you need it.
4. Too lazy to take dry clean only items in for a proper cleaning? Just set dingy laundry like sleeping bags and boot liners out in the sun to sanitize. At least, we think it’s working - our noses have become desensitized to our collective eau de parfum naturel.
5. Lastly, to all my nocturnal urinators: A pee bottle is the greatest luxury you can add to your life. Not only does the pee bottle save you a trip outside the tent in the middle of a cold night, but you can then tuck it in your sleeping bag as a sort of cozy hot water bottle. Just make sure it has a spill-proof lid.
In all seriousness, we love and miss you all back home! Sending so much love to ma and pa in Vancouver, David in NYC, Grammie and Granddad and family in Nova Scotia, all the fam in Toronto and Boston, and our supportive friends in Seattle!
A special shout out to our youngest reader, Gene, burgeoning outdoorsperson and super rad human! Say hi to your mom for me!
Love,
RMI Climber Grace
May 27, 2025
Elevation: 14,000'
Day 10 of eating our way across Denali brought to you by RMIGuides.com…as we all lay in our tents in the frigid cold morning air, waiting with bated breath for the verdict go/no go for the day, are we going for a stroll up to 17,000' Camp or will we chill at camp for another day waiting for our perfect window and eating as many snacks as humanly possible? The more important thing we were all waiting to hear is “breakfast in 5”. Because snacks are definitely not enough calories obviously for this group. These words drive us all to struggle out of our cozy sleeping bags, and put on our puffy pants and jackets, hats and boots as quickly as possible to see what delicious 5 star Yelp meal awaits us to start our day…this morning, they had me at “bacon”. This word is special to me as I live with the most incredible vegetarian on the planet, my spouse Dr. Lauralynn Jansen, who is an amazing cook and human being, but there is no way in hell she is ever cooking bacon in our kitchen. Gotta get it when I can! Love ya babe! We stagger out of our tents making our way to the warm cook tent like we haven’t eaten in days and get settled shoulder to shoulder and all check in on each other and on our sleep for that night, sipping a hot drink as we wait for our gourmet bagels and BACON!!
Jason apparently got a full 7 hours and was bragging just a bit. Said he was amped to get the acclimatization hike and summit attempt all knocked out today and call it good. He may need to lay off the moxy a bit or the rest of us need to get on board and step up our game! I think the rest of us were not necessarily on the same page….as far as my sleep, the outstanding loaner inflatable mat allowed me about a good solid 15 minutes of comfort as it proceeded to slide right out from under me like it was greased up with Crisco prior to me using it. I relished that precious 15 minutes however. I’ll take the short stints of comfort when I can get it.
After breakfast we decided to take a walk around the camp to stretch out the legs and do some meet and greet with other climbers which ended up being bartering for toilet paper and kielbasas (shocker) as we certainly need to make sure we do not run out of food or TP at this stage of the game. That kielbasa could potentially save our lives for sure in the long run and you know, that TP speaks for itself. We also had a nice visit with the Park Rangers and we made our way back to camp to some yoga, stretching, pushups, 7-min abs, and some squats to get the blood pumping. Oh how I miss going for a run, but this will do for now as the energy expenditure and effort is about to go up exponentially in the next few days much to our chagrin. Welcome to the reality of why we are here.
Some home renovations also took place today for our three musketeers tent that needed some leveling work for sure. Team effort, supervised by Task Master Juan (much less critical than previous Project Manager Ethan for sure) provided a much needed leveling upgrade to our snow flooring which will hopefully keep me from unintentionally violating tent space as I roll off my mat. We were also super pumped to see our RMI Team come in from their summit that gave us hope for our team and the effort it will take to reach the top.
Meanwhile, the cook tent was transformed into Casino Royale with Ocean’s 15 blowing up (minus Brad Pitt and George Clooney- sorry guys) as Farkle die were flying and high stakes betting was taking place for Snickers, gorp, sausage, Oreos and other high value items that we certainly don’t have enough of already. If memory serves me correctly, Senior Juan put the smackdown on the other players and holds bragging rights until the next game fired up. In addition, Christmas came early as Seth showed up later in the day with an additional inflatable mat for us to use so we will be living large in Musketeer Central. A special thanks to Grace for burning the incense as it’s getting a bit ripe in these parts let’s be honest and it was lovely to the smell…We have really enjoyed this down time to enjoy each other’s company and continue to rest, hydrate and of course eat… speaking of eating, we hear the hot water brewing as our Master Chef Seth once again prepare the evening meal of Jambalaya and Oreo Cheesecake deliciousness. Shut the front door! Thank you again to our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray. Especially for taking care of my feet. I continue to embrace and appreciate each and every moment of this journey and look forward to what tomorrow brings to this team.
Thanks for all of your support! It is greatly appreciated!
-RMI Climber Shannon
Photos by expedition member Ethan Pickett
May 28, 2025
Elevation: 14,000'
Once upon a time in a land far far away,
7 Denali climbers were sleeping dreaming of the next day.
Before sun had risen they awoke to a rattle,
loud stoves were a burning, breakfast before the next battle.
They packed and readied getting out of warm beds,
The climbers excited for the next challenge ahead.
Folks started with cold toes up the steep mountain side,
But quickly warmed as legs churned and turned their tide.
Up the fixed lines to the climbers next cache,
They reached the spot, oh boy what a dash?!
Back down they went making truly great time.
Home for ramen dinner while the sun did still shine.
Now back in their tents, the days sure do fly by,
Dreams of the summit with hopes set sky high!
Farewell for now as guides need sleep too,
The team will check back tomorrow with updates for you!
RMI Guide Jackson Breen
May 30, 2025
Elevation: 14,200'
The rest day at 14K. Waiting on the weather.
99% of people come to Denali with the sole aspiration of reaching the summit. Don’t be like these folks, they are basic and miss out While tent-bound and waiting for our weather window (hopefully Saturday or Sunday by the way, put it on your calendars), we’ve been busy with:
Once we complete all these side quests, I think we unlock a free ride to the top.
- RMI Climber Jason
May 31, 2025
Elevation: 14,200'
Our guides warned us that days at 14,000 feet could be among the hardest. Not because of the altitude, the vertical climbs, or the heavy loads—but because of the waiting.
Today, we hoped for a weather window to move to 17, the penultimate step in our push for the summit. Instead, we were sequestered in camp by wind and snow. Nerves and hopes for tomorrow run high. These are the days that can wear on you—but I am fortunate to be part of an intrepid, resolved, and collegial team.
I am inspired by you, my fellow climbers—by your humor and strength, your spirit of adventure and fierce determination, your perseverance and positivity. We came together by different paths, but we now share a common journey. When I falter, you wait. When you ascend, I cheer. We move together, always supporting, never judging.
I am equally emboldened by our guides—by their friendliness, focus, and vision. They work while we rest. They carry the heavier loads. Though their frustration with our poor packing skills and questionable foot care is sometimes apparent, their patience, calm, and capability give me confidence—not in the outcome, which even they cannot promise, but in the possibility. There are a thousand reasons—weather, injury, error—that any one of us might not summit. But these three remarkable people are the reason we can try.
I don’t know what the next few days hold. But I know this: the ten of us will face what comes together, as we have faced everything so far—one expedition, one team, one rope.
– David and team
June 2, 2025
Elevation: 14,200'
We woke up at 17 Camp to large plumes of snow sublimating off Denali Pass. We slow rolled putting on every layer of clothing we had waiting for water to boil, hoping the wind would subside by the time breakfast was ready. To no avail. By the time we were packed and headed downhill the wind had reached our front door and we were blown down the West Buttress back to 14 Camp with our tails between our legs. Reuniting with friends back at camp and worsening weather reassured us that we had made the right decision.
We have gained a lot over the last couple of weeks; new friendships, good conversations, silly jokes, and some peace from the fast pace of modern life. Though reaching the summit isn’t out of the cards yet for our team, we are beyond satisfied with what the mountain has given us so far. Climbing brings people to their best and their worst, it can cause great joy and great fear. It is a very vulnerable and intimate relationship.
In this world of rat races and anonymous faces it is refreshing to be with good people in a beautiful place. Thank you Mt. McKinley for brining us all together.
Peace, love, gratitude--
RMI Guide Ray Holt
June 4, 2025
Elevation: 7,800'
We left 14 today. Wind and snow. made it to the base of ski hill. Set up camp, had dinner. Hope to continue to the airstrip tomorrow!
Haikus of a Denali Descent
Downhill we trotted
To the airstrip we plotted
Stopped short at ski hill
Wind blowing so far
Windy corner not that hard
Our team is so strong
Talkeetna awaits
Hopes of flying tomorrow
One more stretch to go
- by RMI Guide Jackson Breen
June 5, 2025
Elevation: 7,300'
When we think of Sisyphus, we think of a man cursed to repeat the same arduous task each day with no end in sight. Each day he must think this is it - he has rolled this massive boulder to the top of the mountain, and surely his quest must be complete, right? Yet he awakes each day to the boulder back at the foot of the mountain, only to start again. How tragic! How crushing!
Or is it? In his essay, “The Myth of Sisyphus”, Albert Camus posits that perhaps Sisyphus is not doomed to a life of despair, but is actually a deeply satisfied individual. (Mind you, I have never read this essay and have only a surface-level knowledge of French existential literature let alone Greek mythology, so take this with a Denali sized grain of salt). But consider: this man wakes up each day with a clear task. It’s tough work rolling that boulder but he has some sweet views along the way. Every day he completes his task and must feel satisfied with a day of hard work. He goes to sleep feeling accomplished each night. How many of us can say that we have a clear task each day with no other distractions, a sense of satisfaction at the end of the day, and the delicious feeling of going to bed bone-tired which always produces the best sleep?
Our team made it back to Kahiltna Base Camp today, the last leg of an epic three week expedition. We now wait for skies to clear enough for a flight back to Talkeetna. Although the mountain’s infamous weather system ultimately prevented our team from making a summit bid, we are deeply satisfied with the gifts that The Great One has provided us. We were awed by the austere beauty of the Kahiltna and and vastness of the surrounding peaks and ridges. We were pushed to our limits and learned to dig deeper than ever before; whether it be cramponing on blue ice, being blown around on Windy Corner, struggling with all things altitude, or keeping our extremities warm in -40F windchill. We - a group of strangers prior to May 13 - became not only friends but teammates, encouraging each other in our hardest times, cheering each others’ successes, and cracking the most ridiculous and obscene jokes all day and late into the night.
Climbing Denali/Mt. McKinley has been physically and mentally the hardest thing I’ve ever done. Yet each night I went to sleep in the tent feeling a deep sense of gratitude and accomplishment.
Thank you to our incredible guides (Seth, Jackson, and Ray) for showing us the way, and more - from whipping up breakfast and dinner each day, to performing minor foot surgery, to digging Sisyphusian amounts of snow on the daily, to dealing with all of our client shenanigans. You each have unique gifts that helped me get farther than I thought possible.
Thank you to the rest of the team - the Dont-nalis :) Shannon, David, Ethan, Will, Juan, and of course my other half Jason. I am deeply grateful to have met and befriended each of you. I look forward to our paths crossing again on this great expedition of life.
Love,
RMI Climber Grace
]]>At RMI Expeditions, we often say our product isn’t actually the experiences we deliver or the mountains we climb - it’s our guides. When you rope up with an RMI guide, you’re not just getting a passionate mountaineer. You’re tying in a highly trained professional who’s been tested, mentored, and continually developed to lead with skill, confidence, and care. Plus, they’re pretty fun to hang out with!
We take that responsibility seriously. Here’s a look at how we train our guides, starting before they ever lead a trip, and continuing every season they return.
Before new guides ever tie in on a rope team with clients, they complete a rigorous, multi-phase training program that blends hard skills, soft skills, and mountain judgment. The curriculum is designed to mirror the AMGA Alpine Skills Course technically, and in many ways, go beyond it by training guides for the specific and demanding environments of Rainier, Denali, and other RMI destinations.
The program kicks off with classroom sessions and field exercises covering:
New hires are evaluated throughout the training on their professionalism, preparedness, work ethic, and communication, not just their technical ability. A key focus is developing a guide’s judgment and teaching ability in real-time conditions.
Training culminates with the Practical 1 Rescue Exam, where guides must demonstrate their ability to safely and efficiently manage crevasse rescue scenarios, lower clients, and respond to field incidents.
RMI’s training doesn’t replace AMGA standards - it complements and supports them. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is the national organization that oversees professional mountain guide education and certification in the U.S. Their internationally recognized standards are part of what defines the modern guiding profession, and we’re proud that many of our guides pursue AMGA training and ultimately work toward becoming IFMGA-certified mountain guides (what we call getting "pinned").
We actively support those goals. To date, we’ve awarded over $100,000 in guide education grants to help our staff pursue AMGA coursework, certifications, and mentorship. From SPI to Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide tracks, we expect our guides to go further, and we help them get there.
But we also recognize that certification alone doesn’t prepare someone to guide on Mount Rainier or Denali. Our internal training program fills that gap. Designed in collaboration with AMGA-certified instructors, our curriculum mirrors the Alpine Skills Course (ASC) while layering in the specific skills required to succeed in high-volume, high-consequence guiding environments:
In fact, our internal manuals and evaluations were called "among the best in the industry" in our AMGA accreditation report. We don’t see ourselves in competition with AMGA. We’re aligned in the mission: better trained, more professional, more capable guides across the industry.
Our goal is simple: give our guides the tools to grow, both at RMI and beyond.
At RMI, becoming a lead guide doesn’t happen overnight. Our advancement system is deliberate, structured, and performance-based.
After completing new hire training and Practical 1, guides begin working as assistants. They shadow and support lead guides, practice teaching climbing schools, and gain mileage on summit climbs.
Before leading a Mountaineering Day School, guides must:
To move from Associate to Lead Guide, they must:
These milestones ensure our guides lead with skill, experience, and a deep understanding of RMI’s guiding philosophy.
At RMI, guiding isn’t just a summer job. For many of our staff, it’s a career, and we’ve built advancement pathways to support that. Beyond the lead guide level, experienced guides can step into specialized leadership roles that expand their impact and increase their earning potential.
Supervisors are experienced lead guides who help shape RMI’s culture and set the tone for the guiding team. They mentor new guides, facilitate soft skills training, and model the professionalism and judgment we expect from every team member. Longtime RMI icons like Dave Hahn and Brent Okita exemplify what great supervision looks like: grounded, supportive, and deeply committed to both people and process.
While all guides participate in route maintenance, designated Route Finders take the lead in navigating Mount Rainier’s evolving glacial terrain. These guides - like Casey Grom - are essential to our success. They scout routes, assess hazards, and help increase our margin of safety, which gives our clients the best chance at reaching the summit. Their work is often quiet but critical.
Mountain Managers operate as the bridge between our guide team, office staff, and executive leadership. It’s a hybrid role that includes mentorship, schedule coordination, on-mountain risk management, and staff development. Guides like Dominic Cifelli do everything from running morning meetings to hiking to Camp Muir to assess conditions or support teams, these leaders are the glue of the operation.
They also take on HR responsibilities, manage workloads, help resolve issues, and lead training initiatives throughout the season. The position comes with a dedicated day rate on top of guide pay, recognizing its strategic importance to our programs.
Together, these roles offer a roadmap to help make guiding a long-term profession. They show what’s possible when talent, leadership, and opportunity come together in the mountains.
Being a great guide isn’t just about knots and anchors - it’s about presence. From day one, we coach our guides how to be empathetic, accessible, and caring. This includes:
We teach new guides how to think critically, anticipate needs, and navigate the subtle balance between safety and success. They learn to speak up about risk, communicate effectively with lead guides, and model professionalism in everything from gear checks to campsite chores.
While technical skills are hugely important to be a successful guide, it’s the soft skills that differentiate between a good climber and an excellent guide. Bottom line; if you don’t like people, you shouldn’t be a mountain guide.
Initial training is just the start. Guides further develop their hard and soft skills via continuing education. Each guide is required to have at least 18 hours of continuing education per year. During the summer climbing season, we conduct weekly continuing education courses in the evening from 6-9 PM. Topics include:
In addition to this continuing education, we have required certifications that we often offer for reduced rates to guides. These include Wilderness First Responder (WFR) recertifications, Search and Rescue (SAR) training, and Leave No Trace Workshops. More importantly, we create a culture where curiosity, humility, and improvement are celebrated, not just expected.
When you climb with RMI, you’re trusting us with more than your summit attempt; you’re trusting us with your safety, your experience, and, honestly, your life. That’s why we invest so heavily in guide development. We know that a strong, well-prepared guide can turn a challenging climb into a transformative experience.
So the next time you clip onto a rope with us, know this: your guide has trained extensively for it. Not just once, but continually.
]]>It's Earth Month, and there's no better time to talk about what RMI Expeditions has been doing for years to protect the mountains we love. From Mount Rainier to Denali, RMI has been setting the standard for environmental stewardship in mountaineering for decades. And it all starts with a little thing called Leave No Trace.
But RMI didn’t just hop on the Leave No Trace train—it helped build the tracks. As the first guide service to achieve the Leave No Trace Gold Standard Outfitter and Guide designation, RMI has a storied history of contributing to LNT principles, particularly for the Alpine Zone. Let’s break it down.
Leave No Trace is a set of outdoor ethics designed to promote outdoor conservation by minimizing human impact. Established by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics, it revolves around Seven Principles that guide responsible practices for enjoying natural areas while preserving them for future generations. The principles include:
While Leave No Trace applies to all outdoor environments, special considerations are needed for fragile alpine zones where plant life, wildlife, and natural features are particularly sensitive to human impact.
You can learn more at: https://lnt.org/
The early 2000s were not exactly known for pristine mountaineering practices. Waste (including human waste—yep, it’s gross but important) littered high-traffic peaks like Mount Rainier and Denali. RMI’s own Peter Whittaker realized the full extent of the problem firsthand after completing a Leave No Trace Master Course around 2003. Realizing the lack of established principles for the Alpine Zone, Peter took action.
Working with Mount Rainier National Park, RMI implemented the Blue Bag system, a simple yet effective way to manage human waste in delicate environments. But they didn’t stop there. RMI hosted a symposium that brought together concessionaires, climbing clubs like the Mazamas and Seattle Mountaineers, and park rangers to establish clear Leave No Trace guidelines for the Alpine Zone.
That effort resulted in the official LNT Alpine Zone protocols, helping to reduce waste and environmental impact on mountains worldwide. For a while, cards detailing these principles were handed out with climbing permits for Mount Rainier, ensuring that every climber understood their responsibility to protect the mountain.
RMI’s efforts didn’t stop with Rainier. As RMI expanded its operations to Denali, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Everest, it applied those same Leave No Trace principles to these new environments. Guides are trained to minimize impacts in different alpine zones, from volcanic terrain to high-altitude glaciated environments. RMI's influence has spread not only across the U.S. but internationally as well.
Additionally, RMI played a key role in developing specific LNT curriculum for mountaineering. Collaborating with the Center for Outdoor Ethics, RMI contributed to creating guidelines that are now applied worldwide. This dedication led to RMI being recognized as the first Gold Standard Outfitter and Guide by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics.
RMI Guides on Environmental Patrol in Mount Rainier National Park
Today, RMI continues to raise the bar when it comes to sustainability. And we’re not just talking about lectures on recycling.
RMI’s efforts have also extended to the Sustainable Summits Conference, where they work with other leaders in the climbing community to establish best practices for environmental stewardship. Sharing techniques, experiences, and solutions from expeditions worldwide continues to inform RMI’s approach to Leave No Trace.
RMI is one of the few guiding services to offer a Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course, combined with a summit of Mount Baker. This five-day expedition combines climbing instruction with an immersive LNT curriculum, preparing participants to become Leave No Trace instructors themselves.
Participants learn how to plan and teach LNT courses, manage groups in the field, and apply Leave No Trace principles in alpine environments. Graduates are certified to teach LNT Level 1 courses, skills courses, and workshops. It’s a chance to not only climb one of the most beautiful peaks in the North Cascades but to do it responsibly—and teach others to do the same.
RMI Expeditions isn’t just a guiding service. It’s a community committed to preserving the wild landscapes we explore. Whether it’s through implementing the Blue Bag system, running carbon-neutral expeditions, or teaching the next generation of Leave No Trace instructors, RMI continues to set the standard for environmental stewardship.
Interested in learning more? Check out our Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course on Mount Baker and take your mountaineering skills to the next level—while ensuring the mountains stay pristine for generations to come.
RMI Expeditions
30027 SR 706 East
Post Office Box Q
Ashford, WA 98304
Phone:
1 (888) 892‑5462
Email:
[email protected]
