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<![CDATA[RMI Knowledge Hub]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/favicon.pnghttps://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/Ghost 5.130Mon, 21 Jul 2025 13:46:57 GMT60<![CDATA[New World Record: Brent Okita Celebrates 600 Summits and Still Climbing]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/new-world-record-brent-okita-celebrates-600-summits-and-still-climbing/6847244639d41d0001d47a85Fri, 13 Jun 2025 20:42:35 GMT

At 64 years old, Brent Okita has done something no one else ever has: he’s stood on the summit of Mount Rainier for the 600th time. That new world record alone is staggering. But it doesn’t tell the whole story, not even close.

New World Record: Brent Okita Celebrates 600 Summits and Still Climbing
Brent on top of Rainier for his 600th summit!

Brent has been guiding with RMI Expeditions since 1986. That’s nearly four decades of early alpine starts, whiteout navigation, bluebird summits, and shoulder-season storms. It’s thousands of clients coached up the Muir Snowfield, hundreds of rope teams safely guided down Disappointment Cleaver, and an untold number of wise decisions that kept people safe, calm, and moving upward.

He’s summited Rainier more than anyone in history. When asked how he feels on the summit, Brent said:

“It feels great, we have perfect weather up here and a perfect group and I couldn’t be happier.”
New World Record: Brent Okita Celebrates 600 Summits and Still Climbing
Brent holds the world record for most summits of Mount Rainier.

A Legacy Built One Step at a Time

Brent’s reputation in the guiding world goes far beyond Rainier. He summited Everest in 1991 via the North Ridge (the same line climbed by Mallory and Irvine in 1924) and returned in 2001 as part of the famed Mallory-Irvine Search Expedition. He has guided 23 consecutive successful McKinley expeditions in Denali National Park, led climbs on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and mountains around the world. But Mount Rainier has always been home base.

There’s something fitting about that. Rainier isn’t just a proving ground for new alpinists; it’s a teacher. It rewards patience, consistency, and care. Brent has made a life of listening to that mountain.

He’s also helped shape what it means to be an RMI guide. As a Senior Guide and longtime Supervisor, Brent has mentored generations of young guides, passing down not just rope systems and crampon techniques, but the values that define our work: humility, precision, compassion, and perseverance.

When asked if he has any advice for future guides, Brent said:

"Guides, pay attention to what's happening out there... it's the details that really matter. I think that's why I've had such a successful life; I pay attention to the details."

Ask any guide who’s worked a climb with Brent, and you’ll hear the same thing: he leads by example. Quietly. Steadily. With the kind of grace that’s earned, not taught.

New World Record: Brent Okita Celebrates 600 Summits and Still Climbing
Brent standing on top of Mount Rainier.

More Than a Number

Climbing Rainier 600 times means spending close to two years of your life above 10,000 feet. It means learning every subtle shift in the glacier’s surface. It means knowing how the sun hits the Cleaver in late June and where to find shelter in a whiteout at 13,000 feet. But most of all, it means showing up, day after day, year after year, with care, professionalism, and joy.

Back in 2016, when Brent completed his 500th summit of Rainier, someone asked him if retirement was on the horizon. His answer? “I’ll keep guiding for the foreseeable future.” This time, when asked what's next, Brent said:

"More climbing, more Mount Rainier, it's what I do!"

Guiding with Heart: Brent’s Bond with Climbers

Over hundreds of climbs, Brent has built more than a record; he’s built relationships. For many clients, their time with Brent on the mountain is transformative, not just because of the summit, but because of who was leading the way.

Dan Kemp recalls a moment when Brent made the tough call to turn back due to unsafe conditions. "I know we could have made it to the top," he said, "but Brent didn’t like how unsafe the second route was. I admire that." That trust in his judgment is a consistent theme across client stories.

Mark Tellez described him as "everything you would hope for in a mountain guide," adding, "He had our trust on the mountain. He is understanding but also firm when required to keep folks moving and things safe."

For James Huggins, the impact was deeply personal. "There was just something about him that made me feel like this was going to work out," he wrote. "His calm, straightforward and subtle humor resonated with me... Having him embrace me at the crater was a moment I’ll never forget."

These are the proof that Brent (and all our guides) impact goes far beyond statistics. He builds confidence, fosters camaraderie, and turns big mountain experiences into lifelong memories.

New World Record: Brent Okita Celebrates 600 Summits and Still Climbing
When he's not guiding, Brent is Patrol Director at Crystal Mountain Ski Resort

A Quiet Celebration, A Shared Milestone

For all of us at RMI, Brent’s 600th summit isn’t just a personal achievement; it’s a moment of reflection and gratitude. It reminds us what’s possible when passion meets purpose. When experience is paired with humility. When a lifetime of small, thoughtful decisions adds up to something extraordinary.

We’re proud to call Brent a colleague, a mentor, and a friend. And we’re honored to celebrate this milestone with the broader mountaineering community. Because while summits may be counted one at a time, legacies are built over seasons, years, and relationships forged on the rope.

Congratulations, Brent. And thank you for kicking the steps, the teaching, and the example you’ve set for all of us.

]]>
<![CDATA[Denali or McKinley? Name Changes on North America's Tallest Peak]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/denali-or-mckinley-name-changes-on-north-americas-tallest-peak/682167f08317d900016cd55fFri, 13 Jun 2025 20:13:29 GMT

Mt. McKinley vs. Denali

At RMI Expeditions, our commitment is to the mountains, the people who climb them, and the cultures that surround them.

A Mountain Known by Many Names

Long before maps or government proclamations, North America's tallest peak was called by the names of the Indigenous peoples who have lived in and around it for thousands of years. Among the Koyukon Athabaskan people, the mountain is "Denali," meaning "The High One." The Dena'ina of the Susitna River Valley call it "Dghelay Ka’a" - "The Big Mountain."

During Alaska’s Russian period, it was known as "Bolshaya Gora," Russian for "Big Mountain."

In 1896, an American prospector named William Dickey gave the peak a new name: "Mount McKinley," after then-presidential candidate William McKinley. Dickey’s choice wasn’t neutral - it was politically motivated, a symbolic nod to the gold standard during a heated national debate. The name was cemented federally in 1917 and persisted for over a century, despite local resistance and Indigenous advocacy.

In 1975, the Alaska State Legislature formally requested the mountain be renamed Denali. That request was blocked in Congress by representatives from McKinley’s home state of Ohio for decades. It wasn’t until 2015 that then-Secretary of the Interior, Sally Jewell, used her authority to officially change the name to Denali at the federal level.

For more information on the naming history, please see RMI’s Denali Cultural Landscape.

The Western Naming History of "The Great One"

May 6, 1794 - The historical first European sighting of Denali by George Vancouver when he was surveying the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet and mentioned "distant stupendous mountains" in his journal. However, he uncharacteristically left the mountain unnamed. Vancouver was also the explorer who first named Mt. Rainier.

1800s - During the Russian ownership of Alaska (pre-1867), the common name for the mountain was Bolshaya Gora ("big mountain" in Russian).

1889 - The first English name applied to the peak was Densmore's Mountain or Densmore's Peak, for the gold prospector Frank Densmore who had fervently praised the mountain's majesty; however, the name persevered only locally and informally.

1893 - The mountain is first named on a map by Ferdinand von Wrangel with the name "Tenada."

1896 - The mountain was first designated "Mt. McKinley" by Seattleite William A. Dickey who led a gold prospecting dig in the sands of the Susitna River in June 1896. The name Mt. McKinley was inspired by William McKinley of Ohio who had been nominated for the Presidency and the fact that it was the first news they received when they left the wilderness. By most accounts, the naming was politically driven; Dickey had met many silver miners who zealously promoted Democratic presidential candidate William Jennings Bryan's ideal of a silver standard, inspiring him to retaliate by naming the mountain after a strong proponent of the gold standard. The naming was further reinforced after McKinley's assassination that led to sentiment favoring commemoration of his memory.

February 26, 1917 - President Woodrow Wilson signed the park bill that created the beginnings of McKinley National Park and officially named the great mountain Mt. McKinley.

1975 - The Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name of the mountain to Denali, and, at Governor Jay Hammond's behest, the Alaska Legislature officially requested that the United States Board on Geographic Names (BGN), the federal governmental body responsible for naming geographic features in the United States, change the name of the mountain from "Mount McKinley" to "Mount Denali." Ohio congressman Ralph Regula (whose district included Canton, where McKinley spent much of his life) opposed action by the U.S. Board and was able to prevent it.

1977 - With Secretary Morton no longer at the helm of the Department of the Interior, the Board again prepared to consider the name change, but Regula gathered signatures from every member of the Ohio congressional delegation against renaming Mt. McKinley, and no ruling was made.

December 2, 1980 - With President Jimmy Carter's signing into law of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA), McKinley National Park was incorporated into a larger protected area named Denali National Park and Preserve. Naming the new, larger park Denali, while retaining the name Mt. McKinley for the actual mountain was thought to be a compromise by many "Mt. McKinley" partisans. However, "Denali" advocates rejected the position arguing the naming created confusion.

1981 - Regula used a procedural maneuver to prevent any change to the Mt. McKinley name. Under U.S. Board on Geographic Names policy, the Board cannot consider any name-change proposal if congressional legislation relating to that name is pending. Thus Regula began a biennial legislative tradition of either introducing language into Interior Department appropriation bills, or introducing a stand-alone bill that directed that the name of Mt. McKinley should not be changed. This effectively killed the Denali name-change proposal pending with the Board.

2009 - The retirement of Regula reinvigorated interest in renaming the mountain. Despite efforts in Alaska, Ohio Representatives Betty Sutton and Tim Ryan assumed Regula's role as congressional guardians of the Mt. McKinley name.

January 2015 – A bill submitted by Alaska Senator Lisa Murkowski re-proposed renaming North America's highest peak as Denali.

August 30, 2015 – Sally Jewell announced that the mountain would be renamed Denali, under authority of federal law which permits her as Secretary of the Interior to name geographic features if the Board of Geographic Names does not act within a "reasonable" period of time.

January 2025 - In December 2024, President-elect Donald Trump stated that he planned to revert the mountain's federal name to Mount McKinley during his second term. Trump's proposal was met with criticism from many prominent Alaskans. Upon his inauguration in January 2025, Trump signed executive order Restoring Names That Honor American Greatness which changed the mountain's official federal name back to Mount McKinley.

What’s Changed, and Why We’re Using “Mount McKinley”

In January 2025, the current administration signed an executive order titled Restoring Names That Honor American Greatness. This action reversed the 2015 federal decision, reinstating the name Mount McKinley as the official federal name of the mountain. The surrounding area remains Denali National Park and Preserve.

We received a formal directive in February 2025, from the National Park Service stating that all references to the mountain must now read "Mount McKinley" in promotional materials, maps, and communications.

As an official concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve, RMI Expeditions is bound by contract to follow all federal naming guidelines, including those laid out by the U.S. Board on Geographic Names and the Department of the Interior.

For us, this is a matter of legal compliance. To continue offering safe, guided expeditions to this incredible peak, we abide by the regulations that govern our concession. 

We will continue climbing with purpose, honoring the legacy of Denali National Park and Preserve and its people while complying with the regulations that allow us to share this incredible peak with others.

- The RMI Team

]]>
<![CDATA[Denali Days - Musings from a McKinley Trip]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/denali-days-musings-from-a-mckinley-trip/6847629839d41d0001d47aa3Fri, 13 Jun 2025 18:59:15 GMT

In 2025, Seth Burn's RMI Expeditions McKinley expedition team decided to do something little different with their daily Expedition Dispatches. Instead of the normal news-bulletin updates, we got some very creative dispatches in the forms of bullets, fantasy scenarios, musings, and more. This blog captures some of their best work, and shows how climbers fill their days on the highest peak in North America.

Although they didn't make the summit due to weather, this team showed us the definition of "it's the journey, not the destination." If you're looking for insight into what it's like on "The Great One", this should give you a decent idea. The most impressive part? All this was sent via satellite communication devices, which aren't known for facilitating great wordplay.

Stuck in Talkeetna

Friday, May 16, 2025

We started our day with breakfast at latitude 62 and ended our day with dinner at latitude 62. Can anyone guess where our day will start tomorrow?!

We spent the morning talking about the finer points of Denali climbing while learning and practicing some new skills. In the afternoon, our pilots at K2 along with the Denali base camp manager saw a break in the weather. Giddy with excitement, we loaded up the plane with all of our bags, put on our mountain clothes, and patiently waited for our chance for take off. Unfortunately, mountain weather can be a fickle beast and the mountain wasn't ready to let us in just yet. We became mesmerized by some classic Denali climbing films and fantasized about when we would soon be in those very spots. 

Waiting is inevitable in the mountains, but always hard, especially at the beginning of a trip. I could not be more proud of our team's attitude. They are taking everything in stride and with a smile. We are enjoying constant laughs, telling stories, and building camaraderie that will enable us to run when our feet hit the ground. We will be ready to fly when our time comes. Hopefully that time is tomorrow morning! 

RMI Guides Jackson, Ray, Seth and Team

First Glacier Days

May 20, 2025

Elevation: 7,800'

Well, we woke up this morning to much better weather. Headed over to the cook tent for a quick bowl or two of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and coffee.  Breakfast of champions! We got our sleds and packs ready to set off for our first cache of the expedition. Everybody was anxious to get going after a great rest day.  Many other teams had the same idea, and we certainly didn’t mind a few of them in front of us breaking trail after we got about a foot of snow at camp in the last 24hrs.  All three teams were moving great up the mountain led by our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray.  They rock!  We had three breaks on the way up and as we moved up the mountain, clouds and a wisp of wind and snow started to move in. We reached 10,200' and cached our gear and food.  Super nice being able to walk downhill with a light pack and no sled! We made our way quickly downhill passing teams as we did on the way up. We are now snug back at our lower camp waiting for what we know will be an amazing dinner of jambalaya. Being originally from Louisiana and all…no pressure on Chef Ray.  Ha!

Our team is really firing on all cylinders and feeling good. Happy for that!  Hydrating, fixing feet and getting some rest are on the agenda after dinner. Oh, and the skies parted on the way back a bit giving us spectacular views when we arrived back at camp, so grateful to be in this moment.

RMI Climber Shannon and Team

Letters Home

May 21, 2025

Elevation: 11,000'

Dear Baby Winter,

Just like in the book that we read before coming out here, “Oh the Places, You’ll Go,” today our group walked through an area that I can’t wait to tell you all about. We started this morning not entirely sure if we were going to continue up today due to the weather being a little iffy but Seth made the call for us to venture out with the goal of reaching 11,000' Camp. The walk up was incredibly challenging, the combination of wind and snow with weighted packs and sleds, made this climb like nothing I’ve ever done. The weather created what seemed to be a complete white out, like walking through a cloud. With only being able to differentiate by looking around at my fellow climbers. Thinking of you and your mother pushed me forward and most importantly our excellent guides kept us safe while out there. Each day that I’m here, Denali continues to teach me something that I hope to one day hand down to you and that’s that sometimes the most rewarding moments in life, are the ones that you’ve earned through working for them. Now it’s time for a hot meal, we’re having ramen tonight, cant wait! I miss you more than words will allow.

Love Dad (Juan)

Maureen's Restaurant

May 23, 2025

Elevation: 11,200'

The hottest new restaurant in Alaska is Maureen’s, currently located at the 11K camp on Denali. Started by a trio of up-and-coming chefs (Jackson, Ray, and Seth), who also happen to moonlight as mountain guides, Maureen’s serves up delicious Tex-Mex fare with Asian and Creole inspirations, reflective of the chefs’ diverse backgrounds. “Corn is pretty much my greatest inspiration; I can turn a tortilla into just about anything,” says Chef Jackson, citing his Iowan roots. The pop-up restaurant is small, seating 9 and squatting 1.

On a busy night of service, guests can hear Chef “Sweet Baby” Ray rapping to OutKast with an inexplicably thick Eastern European accent while whipping up a jambalaya in the open kitchen. The portions are generous, much appreciated on big efforts such as caching heavy packs of gear up to 13K ft.

When not working the breakfast shift, Chef Seth runs front of house, chatting up the regulars and offering sweet words of affirmation, which they desperately need to wake up each morning. There is relatively little to complain about, except maybe the limited beverage list (despite the chefs’ weird insistence on tasting the glacial terroir — it’s just hot water), the overpowering red polyester decor (reportedly Maureen’s favorite color), and the ever-present undertones of body odor. Dress code is casual, although insulated down is highly recommended. Gluten-free options are available upon request.

– Jason

Denali Days - Musings from a McKinley Trip
Photo Mockup created by Social Media Manager Hannah Kingsbury

Camp 3

May 24, 2025

Elevation: 14, 200'

Happy Friday Everyone!

To our family and friends back at home, I’m excited to share that we have made it to Camp 3—14,200’—a huge milestone in our journey! This is where we will call home for the next week or so while we acclimatize and hit the fixed lines around 17,000’ to prepare for summit attempts.

Today we woke up to a cool, crisp, bluebird sky, and that meant one thing: we were packing up Camp 2 and headed to Camp 3. After a quick breakfast, we packed up our camp, stuffed our packs to the breaking point, and loaded a couple of sleds with all our gear and food.

It was time to trade in our snowshoes and put on our crampons. That’s right—it was time to go climbing, finally! As we headed out with an ice axe in one hand and a trekking pole in the other, we stared up at Motorcycle Hill. It was time to go to work.

We had a 35-degree pitch with roughly 1,000’ of gain. From there, we made our way to Squirrel Hill—another 30-degree pitch—then up to the Polo Fields, where we finally got a bit of flatter terrain. The views are like no other and bring grace to the grind.

Then it was up and around Windy Corner, which didn’t disappoint, greeting us with some lovely wind :). We continued to embrace the day as we made our last push into Camp 3. We are home! Our biggest push in one day with 3,000’ of vertical gain.

As I sit here and write this—and I know the team feels the same—with a sunburnt face, a back that feels like it carried an elephant, and feet that feel like they ran an ultramarathon, I couldn’t be more grateful and proud of this team and all we’ve accomplished over the past six days. Getting to Camp 3 took everything we’ve got—congrats, team!

To our guides: every day you continue to inspire us, nail the weather reports, and keep us moving upward. Thank you for all your efforts!

That’s all for now—time for dinner (bacon mac and cheese!) and some much-needed rest days. Onward and upward this team goes! Keep sending the positive vibes and prayers our way—they’re working!

- Will

Life Hacks from the Top of North America

May 26, 2025

Elevation: 14,000'

We continue to hang at 14,000' Camp, acclimatizing, resting, going on small walks to stretch our achy legs, and working on the skills that we will need to ascend the higher reaches of the mountain. After a leisurely morning, our guides had us practice using our ascenders, clipping in and out of anchors, clipping in and out of anchors, and descending the fixed lines using the trusty arm wrap. We repeated until Seth was confident that we could perform these drills with cold hands.

As the pace of life has slowed during this phase of the expedition and we have many (many) hours in the tent with our own thoughts, I’ve curated my top 5 life hacks from the top of North America:

      1. Say goodbye to dish detergent and sponge - fresh powdery snow makes a great all-natural scrub for cleaning your single bowl, mug, and spork. Just step outside, grab a handful of nature’s Dawn, and get to work! Please be sure you select a patch of snow that is indeed white.

       2. Alternatively, forget the dish washing routine altogether and embrace the complex layerings of flavor that can only be experienced when you brew tea in the same mug as last night’s corn soup, or slurp Cinnamon Toast Crunch with undertones of Madras Lentils.

      3. Worried that your sticky-fingers roommate will take your last slice of leftover pizza, or a sneaky coworker will swipe your oat milk creamer AGAIN? Here’s what you gotta do: wrap your precious perishables in a trash bag and bury it deep in the snow! Your goodies will stay cold and fresh, and hidden from greedy scavengers. Just budget a good 20 minutes to dig it up when you need it.

      4. Too lazy to take dry clean only items in for a proper cleaning? Just set dingy laundry like sleeping bags and boot liners out in the sun to sanitize. At least, we think it’s working - our noses have become desensitized to our collective eau de parfum naturel.

        5. Lastly, to all my nocturnal urinators: A pee bottle is the greatest luxury you can add to your life. Not only does the pee bottle save you a trip outside the tent in the middle of a cold night, but you can then tuck it in your sleeping bag as a sort of cozy hot water bottle. Just make sure it has a spill-proof lid. 

In all seriousness, we love and miss you all back home! Sending so much love to ma and pa in Vancouver, David in NYC, Grammie and Granddad and family in Nova Scotia, all the fam in Toronto and Boston, and our supportive friends in Seattle!

A special shout out to our youngest reader, Gene, burgeoning outdoorsperson and super rad human! Say hi to your mom for me!

Love,

RMI Climber Grace

Rest Day Rambles

May 27, 2025

Elevation: 14,000'

Day 10 of eating our way across Denali brought to you by RMIGuides.com…as we all lay in our tents in the frigid cold morning air, waiting with bated breath for the verdict go/no go for the day, are we going for a stroll up to 17,000' Camp or will we chill at camp for another day waiting for our perfect window and eating as many snacks as humanly possible? The more important thing we were all waiting to hear is “breakfast in 5”. Because snacks are definitely not enough calories obviously for this group.  These words drive us all to struggle out of our cozy sleeping bags, and put on our puffy pants and jackets, hats and boots as quickly as possible to see what delicious 5 star Yelp meal awaits us to start our day…this morning, they had me at “bacon”.  This word is special to me as I live with the most incredible vegetarian on the planet, my spouse Dr. Lauralynn Jansen, who is an amazing cook and human being, but there is no way in hell she is ever cooking bacon in our kitchen. Gotta get it when I can! Love ya babe!  We stagger out of our tents making our way to the warm cook tent like we haven’t eaten in days and get settled shoulder to shoulder and all check in on each other and on our sleep for that night, sipping a hot drink as we wait for our gourmet bagels and BACON!!

Jason apparently got a full 7 hours and was bragging just a bit. Said he was amped to get the acclimatization hike and summit attempt all knocked out today and call it good.  He may need to lay off the moxy a bit or the rest of us need to get on board and step up our game! I think the rest of us were not necessarily on the same page….as far as my sleep, the outstanding loaner inflatable mat allowed me about a good solid 15 minutes of comfort as it proceeded to slide right out from under me like it was greased up with Crisco prior to me using it.  I relished that precious 15 minutes however.  I’ll take the short stints of comfort when I can get it. 

After breakfast we decided to take a walk around the camp to stretch out the legs and do some meet and greet with other climbers which ended up being bartering for toilet paper and kielbasas (shocker) as we certainly need to make sure we do not run out of food or TP at this stage of the game. That kielbasa could potentially save our lives for sure in the long run and you know, that TP speaks for itself.  We also had a nice visit with the Park Rangers and we made our way back to camp to some yoga, stretching, pushups, 7-min abs, and some squats to get the blood pumping. Oh how I miss going for a run, but this will do for now as the energy expenditure and effort is about to go up exponentially in the next few days much to our chagrin. Welcome to the reality of why we are here. 

Some home renovations also took place today for our three musketeers tent that needed some leveling work for sure. Team effort, supervised by Task Master Juan (much less critical than previous Project Manager Ethan for sure) provided a much needed leveling upgrade to our snow flooring which will hopefully keep me from unintentionally violating tent space as I roll off my mat. We were also super pumped to see our RMI Team come in from their summit that gave us hope for our team and the effort it will take to reach the top.

Meanwhile, the cook tent was transformed into Casino Royale with Ocean’s 15 blowing up (minus Brad Pitt and George Clooney- sorry guys) as Farkle die were flying and high stakes betting was taking place for Snickers, gorp, sausage, Oreos and other high value items that we certainly don’t have enough of already.  If memory serves me correctly, Senior Juan put the smackdown on the other players and holds bragging rights until the next game fired up.  In addition, Christmas came early as Seth showed up later in the day with an additional inflatable mat for us to use so we will be living large in Musketeer Central.  A special thanks to Grace for burning the incense as it’s getting a bit ripe in these parts let’s be honest and it was lovely to the smell…We have really enjoyed this down time to enjoy each other’s company and continue to rest, hydrate and of course eat… speaking of eating, we hear the hot water brewing as our Master Chef Seth once again prepare the evening meal of Jambalaya and Oreo Cheesecake deliciousness. Shut the front door!  Thank you again to our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray.  Especially for taking care of my feet. I continue to embrace and appreciate each and every moment of this journey and look forward to what tomorrow brings to this team. 

Thanks for all of your support! It is greatly appreciated!

-RMI Climber Shannon

Poetry at Altitude

May 28, 2025

Elevation: 14,000'

Once upon a time in a land far far away,

7  Denali climbers were sleeping dreaming of the next day. 

Before sun had risen they awoke to a rattle,

loud stoves were a burning, breakfast before the next battle.

They packed and readied getting out of warm beds,

The climbers excited for the next challenge ahead.

Folks started with cold toes up the steep mountain side,

But quickly warmed as legs churned and turned their tide.

Up the fixed lines to the climbers next cache,

They reached the spot, oh boy what a dash?!

Back down they went making truly great time.

Home for ramen dinner while the sun did still shine.

Now back in their tents, the days sure do fly by,

Dreams of the summit with hopes set sky high!

Farewell for now as guides need sleep too,

The team will check back tomorrow with updates for you!

RMI Guide Jackson Breen

Weather Days

May 30, 2025

Elevation: 14,200'

The rest day at 14K. Waiting on the weather.

99% of people come to Denali with the sole aspiration of reaching the summit. Don’t be like these folks, they are basic and miss out While tent-bound and waiting for our weather window (hopefully Saturday or Sunday by the way, put it on your calendars), we’ve been busy with:

  1. Building an ice monument at camp to honor the ice Pharaohs that will last a thousand suns.
  2. Setting up an HOA and developing our surrounding community.
  3. Reenacting 12 Angry Men, except the crime is who left a covert poop in our bathroom?
  4. Putting up “Wanted” posters for Shannon’s friend, the elusive Bill “Big Moxy” Marshall.
  5. Filming our workout tape, Body by Denali, guaranteed to deliver muscle loss in 22 days.

Once we complete all these side quests, I think we unlock a free ride to the top.

-  RMI Climber Jason

Waiting It Out

May 31, 2025

Elevation: 14,200'

Our guides warned us that days at 14,000 feet could be among the hardest. Not because of the altitude, the vertical climbs, or the heavy loads—but because of the waiting.

Today, we hoped for a weather window to move to 17, the penultimate step in our push for the summit. Instead, we were sequestered in camp by wind and snow. Nerves and hopes for tomorrow run high. These are the days that can wear on you—but I am fortunate to be part of an intrepid, resolved, and collegial team.

I am inspired by you, my fellow climbers—by your humor and strength, your spirit of adventure and fierce determination, your perseverance and positivity. We came together by different paths, but we now share a common journey. When I falter, you wait. When you ascend, I cheer. We move together, always supporting, never judging.

I am equally emboldened by our guides—by their friendliness, focus, and vision. They work while we rest. They carry the heavier loads. Though their frustration with our poor packing skills and questionable foot care is sometimes apparent, their patience, calm, and capability give me confidence—not in the outcome, which even they cannot promise, but in the possibility. There are a thousand reasons—weather, injury, error—that any one of us might not summit. But these three remarkable people are the reason we can try.

I don’t know what the next few days hold. But I know this: the ten of us will face what comes together, as we have faced everything so far—one expedition, one team, one rope.

– David and team

Finding Meaning in Not Summiting

June 2, 2025

Elevation: 14,200'

We woke up at 17 Camp to large plumes of snow sublimating off Denali Pass. We slow rolled putting on every layer of clothing we had waiting for water to boil, hoping the wind would subside by the time breakfast was ready. To no avail. By the time we were packed and headed downhill the wind had reached our front door and we were blown down the West Buttress back to 14 Camp with our tails between our legs. Reuniting with friends back at camp and worsening weather reassured us that we had made the right decision. 

We have gained a lot over the last couple of weeks; new friendships, good conversations, silly jokes, and some peace from the fast pace of modern life. Though reaching the summit isn’t out of the cards yet for our team, we are beyond satisfied with what the mountain has given us so far. Climbing brings people to their best and their worst, it can cause great joy and great fear. It is a very vulnerable and intimate relationship.

In this world of rat races and anonymous faces it is refreshing to be with good people in a beautiful place. Thank you Mt. McKinley for brining us all together.

Peace, love, gratitude--
RMI Guide Ray Holt

Haikus of a Denali Descent

June 4, 2025

Elevation: 7,800'

We left 14 today. Wind and snow. made it to the base of ski hill. Set up camp, had dinner. Hope to continue to the airstrip tomorrow!

Haikus of a Denali Descent 

Downhill we trotted

To the airstrip we plotted

Stopped short at ski hill

Wind blowing so far

Windy corner not that hard

Our team is so strong

Talkeetna awaits

Hopes of flying tomorrow

One more stretch to go

 - by RMI Guide Jackson Breen

Reflecting on the Journey

June 5, 2025

Elevation: 7,300'

When we think of Sisyphus, we think of a man cursed to repeat the same arduous task each day with no end in sight. Each day he must think this is it - he has rolled this massive boulder to the top of the mountain, and surely his quest must be complete, right? Yet he awakes each day to the boulder back at the foot of the mountain, only to start again. How tragic! How crushing!

Or is it? In his essay, “The Myth of Sisyphus”, Albert Camus posits that perhaps Sisyphus is not doomed to a life of despair, but is actually a deeply satisfied individual. (Mind you, I have never read this essay and have only a surface-level knowledge of French existential literature let alone Greek mythology, so take this with a Denali sized grain of salt). But consider: this man wakes up each day with a clear task. It’s tough work rolling that boulder but he has some sweet views along the way. Every day he completes his task and must feel satisfied with a day of hard work. He goes to sleep feeling accomplished each night. How many of us can say that we have a clear task each day with no other distractions, a sense of satisfaction at the end of the day, and the delicious feeling of going to bed bone-tired which always produces the best sleep?

Our team made it back to Kahiltna Base Camp today, the last leg of an epic three week expedition. We now wait for skies to clear enough for a flight back to Talkeetna. Although the mountain’s infamous weather system ultimately prevented our team from making a summit bid, we are deeply satisfied with the gifts that The Great One has provided us. We were awed by the austere beauty of the Kahiltna and and vastness of the surrounding peaks and ridges. We were pushed to our limits and learned to dig deeper than ever before; whether it be cramponing on blue ice, being blown around on Windy Corner, struggling with all things altitude, or keeping our extremities warm in -40F windchill. We - a group of strangers prior to May 13 - became not only friends but teammates, encouraging each other in our hardest times, cheering each others’ successes, and cracking the most ridiculous and obscene jokes all day and late into the night.

Climbing Denali/Mt. McKinley has been physically and mentally the hardest thing I’ve ever done. Yet each night I went to sleep in the tent feeling a deep sense of gratitude and accomplishment.

Thank you to our incredible guides (Seth, Jackson, and Ray) for showing us the way, and more - from whipping up breakfast and dinner each day, to performing minor foot surgery, to digging Sisyphusian amounts of snow on the daily, to dealing with all of our client shenanigans. You each have unique gifts that helped me get farther than I thought possible.

Thank you to the rest of the team - the  Dont-nalis :) Shannon, David, Ethan, Will, Juan, and of course my other half Jason. I am deeply grateful to have met and befriended each of you. I look forward to our paths crossing again on this great expedition of life.

Love,

RMI Climber Grace

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<![CDATA[Built to Lead: How RMI Guides Train for Excellence]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/built-to-lead-how-rmi-guides-train-for-excellence/6830e2efcc84950001947abaFri, 23 May 2025 21:11:41 GMT

At RMI Expeditions, we often say our product isn’t actually the experiences we deliver or the mountains we climb - it’s our guides. When you rope up with an RMI guide, you’re not just getting a passionate mountaineer. You’re tying in a highly trained professional who’s been tested, mentored, and continually developed to lead with skill, confidence, and care. Plus, they’re pretty fun to hang out with!

We take that responsibility seriously. Here’s a look at how we train our guides, starting before they ever lead a trip, and continuing every season they return.

The Foundation: Initial New-Hire Training

Before new guides ever tie in on a rope team with clients, they complete a rigorous, multi-phase training program that blends hard skills, soft skills, and mountain judgment. The curriculum is designed to mirror the AMGA Alpine Skills Course technically, and in many ways, go beyond it by training guides for the specific and demanding environments of Rainier, Denali, and other RMI destinations.

The program kicks off with classroom sessions and field exercises covering:

  • Technical skills: crevasse rescue, rope transitions, knots and hitches, snow and ice anchors, belaying, and short-roping
  • Navigation and movement: route planning, snowfield travel, pacing, and landmark recognition
  • Risk management: hazard assessment, objective vs. perceived risk, emergency protocols, and client-specific risk profiles
  • Client care: coaching, communication, pacing, layering, hydration, and the three objective criteria for clients to continue on summit climbs
  • Environmental ethics: a full Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor course is included

New hires are evaluated throughout the training on their professionalism, preparedness, work ethic, and communication, not just their technical ability. A key focus is developing a guide’s judgment and teaching ability in real-time conditions.

Training culminates with the Practical 1 Rescue Exam, where guides must demonstrate their ability to safely and efficiently manage crevasse rescue scenarios, lower clients, and respond to field incidents.

Built to Lead: How RMI Guides Train for Excellence

How We Stack Up: AMGA and Our Shared Standards

RMI’s training doesn’t replace AMGA standards - it complements and supports them. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is the national organization that oversees professional mountain guide education and certification in the U.S. Their internationally recognized standards are part of what defines the modern guiding profession, and we’re proud that many of our guides pursue AMGA training and ultimately work toward becoming IFMGA-certified mountain guides (what we call getting "pinned").

We actively support those goals. To date, we’ve awarded over $100,000 in guide education grants to help our staff pursue AMGA coursework, certifications, and mentorship. From SPI to Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide tracks, we expect our guides to go further, and we help them get there.

But we also recognize that certification alone doesn’t prepare someone to guide on Mount Rainier or Denali. Our internal training program fills that gap. Designed in collaboration with AMGA-certified instructors, our curriculum mirrors the Alpine Skills Course (ASC) while layering in the specific skills required to succeed in high-volume, high-consequence guiding environments:

  • Running summit climbs and climbing schools back-to-back
  • Managing teams of diverse abilities in complex glaciated terrain
  • Coaching movement and self-care on 12+ hour alpine days
  • Real-time decision-making under changing weather and route conditions

In fact, our internal manuals and evaluations were called "among the best in the industry" in our AMGA accreditation report. We don’t see ourselves in competition with AMGA. We’re aligned in the mission: better trained, more professional, more capable guides across the industry.

Our goal is simple: give our guides the tools to grow, both at RMI and beyond.

Built to Lead: How RMI Guides Train for Excellence

The Path to Leadership: Progression at RMI

At RMI, becoming a lead guide doesn’t happen overnight. Our advancement system is deliberate, structured, and performance-based.

Step 1: Assistant Guide

After completing new hire training and Practical 1, guides begin working as assistants. They shadow and support lead guides, practice teaching climbing schools, and gain mileage on summit climbs.

Step 2: School Lead Qualification

Before leading a Mountaineering Day School, guides must:

  • Complete Practical 1 and the Level 1 Written Exam
  • Assist on 5 - 10 Schools, teaching each core skill multiple times
  • Receive positive evaluations from at least two lead guides
  • Pass a supervised School Lead Evaluation

Step 3: Lead Guide Progression

To move from Associate to Lead Guide, they must:

  • Complete 10+ summit climbs
  • Pass the Level 2 Written and Practical Rescue Exams
  • Maintain current Level II or III Avalanche Certifications
  • Lead a climb to the satisfaction of a supervisor
  • Undergo regular feedback and reviews

These milestones ensure our guides lead with skill, experience, and a deep understanding of RMI’s guiding philosophy.

Growing Beyond Guiding: Career Pathways at RMI

At RMI, guiding isn’t just a summer job. For many of our staff, it’s a career, and we’ve built advancement pathways to support that. Beyond the lead guide level, experienced guides can step into specialized leadership roles that expand their impact and increase their earning potential.

Supervisors

Supervisors are experienced lead guides who help shape RMI’s culture and set the tone for the guiding team. They mentor new guides, facilitate soft skills training, and model the professionalism and judgment we expect from every team member. Longtime RMI icons like Dave Hahn and Brent Okita exemplify what great supervision looks like: grounded, supportive, and deeply committed to both people and process.

Route Finders

While all guides participate in route maintenance, designated Route Finders take the lead in navigating Mount Rainier’s evolving glacial terrain. These guides - like Casey Grom - are essential to our success. They scout routes, assess hazards, and help increase our margin of safety, which gives our clients the best chance at reaching the summit. Their work is often quiet but critical.

Mountain Managers

Mountain Managers operate as the bridge between our guide team, office staff, and executive leadership. It’s a hybrid role that includes mentorship, schedule coordination, on-mountain risk management, and staff development. Guides like Dominic Cifelli do everything from running morning meetings to hiking to Camp Muir to assess conditions or support teams, these leaders are the glue of the operation.

They also take on HR responsibilities, manage workloads, help resolve issues, and lead training initiatives throughout the season. The position comes with a dedicated day rate on top of guide pay, recognizing its strategic importance to our programs.

Together, these roles offer a roadmap to help make guiding a long-term profession. They show what’s possible when talent, leadership, and opportunity come together in the mountains.

Built to Lead: How RMI Guides Train for Excellence

Beyond the Rope: The Soft Skills That Matter

Being a great guide isn’t just about knots and anchors - it’s about presence. From day one, we coach our guides how to be empathetic, accessible, and caring. This includes:

  • Lead briefings and manage expectations
  • Support clients who are struggling, whether physically or mentally
  • Give coaching that’s timely, clear, and confidence-boosting
  • Adapt to different learning styles and group dynamics
  • Handle client turns, pacing problems, and tough descents

We teach new guides how to think critically, anticipate needs, and navigate the subtle balance between safety and success. They learn to speak up about risk, communicate effectively with lead guides, and model professionalism in everything from gear checks to campsite chores.

While technical skills are hugely important to be a successful guide, it’s the soft skills that differentiate between a good climber and an excellent guide. Bottom line; if you don’t like people, you shouldn’t be a mountain guide. 

Training Never Ends: Continuing Education

Initial training is just the start. Guides further develop their hard and soft skills via continuing education. Each guide is required to have at least 18 hours of continuing education per year. During the summer climbing season, we conduct weekly continuing education courses in the evening from 6-9 PM. Topics include:

  • Medical scenarios
  • Scenario-based rescue drills (like Practical 2)
  • Short roping and transitioning techniques
  • Female-focused guide workshops
  • Human Resources training
  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) classes
  • Avalanche refreshers
  • AMGA prep clinics
  • Peer-reviewed mock climbs
  • Informal skills sessions with IFMGA guides
  • National Park Service Climbing Ranger combined training

In addition to this continuing education, we have required certifications that we often offer for reduced rates to guides. These include Wilderness First Responder (WFR) recertifications, Search and Rescue (SAR) training, and Leave No Trace Workshops. More importantly, we create a culture where curiosity, humility, and improvement are celebrated, not just expected.

Why This Matters for You

When you climb with RMI, you’re trusting us with more than your summit attempt; you’re trusting us with your safety, your experience, and, honestly, your life. That’s why we invest so heavily in guide development. We know that a strong, well-prepared guide can turn a challenging climb into a transformative experience.

So the next time you clip onto a rope with us, know this: your guide has trained extensively for it. Not just once, but continually. 

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<![CDATA[Leave No Trace: RMI’s Sustainable Climbing Legacy]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/rmi-leave-no-trace-a-history-of-sustainability/67f061c76b490c0001a5e2f6Fri, 04 Apr 2025 23:05:53 GMT

It's Earth Month, and there's no better time to talk about what RMI Expeditions has been doing for years to protect the mountains we love. From Mount Rainier to Denali, RMI has been setting the standard for environmental stewardship in mountaineering for decades. And it all starts with a little thing called Leave No Trace.

But RMI didn’t just hop on the Leave No Trace train—it helped build the tracks. As the first guide service to achieve the Leave No Trace Gold Standard Outfitter and Guide designation, RMI has a storied history of contributing to LNT principles, particularly for the Alpine Zone. Let’s break it down.

What is Leave No Trace?

Leave No Trace is a set of outdoor ethics designed to promote outdoor conservation by minimizing human impact. Established by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics, it revolves around Seven Principles that guide responsible practices for enjoying natural areas while preserving them for future generations. The principles include:

  1. Plan Ahead and Prepare
  2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
  3. Dispose of Waste Properly
  4. Leave What You Find
  5. Minimize Campfire Impact
  6. Respect Wildlife
  7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

While Leave No Trace applies to all outdoor environments, special considerations are needed for fragile alpine zones where plant life, wildlife, and natural features are particularly sensitive to human impact.

You can learn more at: https://lnt.org/

Leave No Trace: RMI’s Sustainable Climbing Legacy
Photo by Paul Maier

RMI's Role in Developing Leave No Trace Principles for the Alpine Zone

The early 2000s were not exactly known for pristine mountaineering practices. Waste (including human waste—yep, it’s gross but important) littered high-traffic peaks like Mount Rainier and Denali. RMI’s own Peter Whittaker realized the full extent of the problem firsthand after completing a Leave No Trace Master Course around 2003. Realizing the lack of established principles for the Alpine Zone, Peter took action.

Working with Mount Rainier National Park, RMI implemented the Blue Bag system, a simple yet effective way to manage human waste in delicate environments. But they didn’t stop there. RMI hosted a symposium that brought together concessionaires, climbing clubs like the Mazamas and Seattle Mountaineers, and park rangers to establish clear Leave No Trace guidelines for the Alpine Zone.

That effort resulted in the official LNT Alpine Zone protocols, helping to reduce waste and environmental impact on mountains worldwide. For a while, cards detailing these principles were handed out with climbing permits for Mount Rainier, ensuring that every climber understood their responsibility to protect the mountain.

RMI’s efforts didn’t stop with Rainier. As RMI expanded its operations to Denali, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Everest, it applied those same Leave No Trace principles to these new environments. Guides are trained to minimize impacts in different alpine zones, from volcanic terrain to high-altitude glaciated environments. RMI's influence has spread not only across the U.S. but internationally as well.

Additionally, RMI played a key role in developing specific LNT curriculum for mountaineering. Collaborating with the Center for Outdoor Ethics, RMI contributed to creating guidelines that are now applied worldwide. This dedication led to RMI being recognized as the first Gold Standard Outfitter and Guide by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics.

RMI's Current Leave No Trace Initiatives

Today, RMI continues to raise the bar when it comes to sustainability. And we’re not just talking about lectures on recycling.

  • Guided Clean-Up Patrols: Every year, RMI guides give 40 volunteer days (yes, they still get paid) to conduct Environmental Patrols on Mount Rainier. Currently, RMI Expeditions is the only guide service on Mount Rainier to conduct environmental patrols. We pick up trash, haul out waste, and even weigh it to track progress. Because nothing says dedication like lugging a bag of someone else's disgarded Blue Bag down a mountain.
  • Helicopter-Free Operations: Unlike other guide services, RMI refuses to use helicopters to carry goods up to Camp Muir on Mount Rainier. All propane, food, tents, and gear are carried by human power. Why? Because preserving the wilderness experience is worth a little extra sweat.
  • Denali Expeditions: RMI was the first commercially guided expedition to carry all of its trash off of Denali, starting in 2002. All expeditions in Denali National Park and Preserve are now 100% carbon neutral thanks to RMI's partnership with Ostrom Climate to offset greenhouse gas emissions.
  • Leave No Trace Training for Guides: All RMI guides carry Leave No Trace Level I certifications, and each Denali expedition includes at least one guide with Level II certification. Additionally, LNT training is a standard part of RMI's guide training program.
  • Shuttle Transportation: RMI was instrumental in leading the shift that required guiding services in Mount Rainier National Park to use shuttles instead of allowing clients to drive individual cars to paradise. By using hybrid shuttles, RMI not only reduces the emissions from our Rainier programs; we also cut down the line at the park entrance and free up dozens of parking spots each day for non-client park visitors.
  • RMI's Global Impact: From Mount Rainier to Kilimanjaro, RMI promotes LNT principles everywhere it climbs. On Kilimanjaro, RMI groups have returned with over 20 lbs. of collected trash, proving that Leave No Trace isn’t just a local effort—it’s a global mindset.

RMI’s efforts have also extended to the Sustainable Summits Conference, where they work with other leaders in the climbing community to establish best practices for environmental stewardship. Sharing techniques, experiences, and solutions from expeditions worldwide continues to inform RMI’s approach to Leave No Trace.

Leave No Trace: RMI’s Sustainable Climbing Legacy
Climber on the Mount Baker Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course

RMI’s Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course on Mount Baker

RMI is one of the few guiding services to offer a Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course, combined with a summit of Mount Baker. This five-day expedition combines climbing instruction with an immersive LNT curriculum, preparing participants to become Leave No Trace instructors themselves.

Participants learn how to plan and teach LNT courses, manage groups in the field, and apply Leave No Trace principles in alpine environments. Graduates are certified to teach LNT Level 1 courses, skills courses, and workshops. It’s a chance to not only climb one of the most beautiful peaks in the North Cascades but to do it responsibly—and teach others to do the same.

The Future of Leave No Trace at RMI Expeditions

RMI Expeditions isn’t just a guiding service. It’s a community committed to preserving the wild landscapes we explore. Whether it’s through implementing the Blue Bag system, running carbon-neutral expeditions, or teaching the next generation of Leave No Trace instructors, RMI continues to set the standard for environmental stewardship.

Interested in learning more? Check out our Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course on Mount Baker and take your mountaineering skills to the next level—while ensuring the mountains stay pristine for generations to come.

Citations

  1. Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. (n.d.). Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering. Leave No Trace.
  2. RMI Expeditions. (n.d.). Responsible Climbing. RMI Guides.
  3. Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. (2024, July 18). Leave No Trace Announces Five New Gold Standard Designations.
  4. Linden Mallory, Senior Guide, RMI Expeditions. (2012, March 10). Guest Blog: Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering.
  5. National Park Service. (n.d.). Wilderness Guidelines and Regulations - Mount Rainier National Park. NPS.
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<![CDATA[Sustainable Mountaineering Guide: Summit Smarter]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/summit-smarter-a-guide-to-sustainable-mountaineering/67f05f346b490c0001a5e2d5Fri, 04 Apr 2025 22:44:14 GMT

Whether you’re aiming for the Seven Summits or just dabbling in your first high-elevation trek, the world’s peaks have a way of casting their spell. But here’s the rub: every trip to altitude carries an environmental price tag, from burned fossil fuels to the social impact on local communities. Below, you’ll find a comprehensive guide to reducing your environmental footprint—from travel logistics to gear choices, community engagement, and more. Ready to go green without losing your sense of adventure? Read on.

Plan Ahead & Prepare (for Real)

You’ve probably heard of the “Plan Ahead and Prepare” principle from Leave No Trace. But let’s dig deeper into what planning really means for sustainability—beyond your typical gear checklist.

  1. Research Your Destination’s Local Infrastructure
    • Before packing, scope out the in-country resources you can leverage. Buying local groceries and gear spares you the environmental cost of shipping (and sometimes snagging that oh-so-tempting 30-pound bag of freeze-dried meals from across the globe).
    • Check regional guidelines on waste management, trekking permits, and required gear. Some areas have strict regulations about what you can bring onto the mountain and how you must dispose of it (e.g., mandatory “blue bags” or carry-out systems).
  2. Build a Climate-Conscious Itinerary
    • Look for less crowded travel windows—often the shoulder seasons—to help spread out visitation and ease the strain on local resources [Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering, 2012].
    • If you’re traveling abroad, consider spending a bit more time there rather than dashing in and out on a short timeline. A longer stay = more in-depth cultural exchange and a lower overall travel footprint per day on the ground.
  3. Engage Your Entire Team
    • Communicate the environmental game plan to every climber in your group. As RMI Expeditions discovered, changes in how you plan meals, pack gear, and manage waste can make a huge collective difference (and sometimes even enhance the adventure) [Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering, 2012].
    • Encourage buy-in and share tips for minimal-impact camping, packing light, and leaving personal comfort zones behind in favor of a more eco-friendly approach.

When you map out your journey with sustainability in mind, you set the tone for the entire expedition.

Shrink Your Carbon Footprint Before Leaving Home

Mountaineering typically implies a fair bit of travel, often involving airplanes, long drives, or other resource-intensive modes of transport. While some carbon emissions are inevitable, you can soften the blow.

  1. Choose Greener Transit Options
    • Whenever possible, opt for trains, buses, or carpooling with fellow climbers instead of flying. If you must fly, consider booking nonstop flights—airplanes use the most fuel during takeoffs and landings [International Air Transport Association, 2022].
    • Bonus tip: If you’re heading to a regional climb, ask around in mountaineering clubs or online forums. You might find climbers willing to share a ride, splitting both gas money and carbon costs.
  2. Offset Your Emissions
    • Programs like Gold Standard and Verified Carbon Standard allow you to invest in climate-friendly initiatives that “offset” the carbon you generate by traveling [Gold Standard, 2023].
    • Look for offsets that genuinely meet recognized criteria—like reforestation projects, renewable energy infrastructure, or community-based sustainability programs.
  3. Pack Smart, Pack Light
    • The heavier the gear, the more fuel an airplane or vehicle needs to haul it. Evaluate every item: do you really need that backup puffy for your backup puffy? Probably not. Lighten your load, and you’ll lighten your environmental impact, too.

Think of it this way: every mile you don’t drive, or every ounce you don’t pack, is a little less environmental strain on the places you plan to explore.

Gear Up Wisely

Yes, that shiny new jacket is tempting. But choosing and maintaining gear responsibly is key to lowering your expedition’s overall footprint.

Choose Durable, High-Quality Equipment

    • A well-made jacket or harness might cost more upfront, but it can last multiple seasons—meaning fewer resources spent on replacements [American Alpine Club, 2023].
    • Check gear reviews from reputable sources like Outdoor Gear Lab or The American Alpine Club before purchasing.

Shop Secondhand or Rent

    • For occasional climbers or specialized trips (looking at you, extremely warm expedition parka), renting gear is often more sustainable (and cheaper) than buying.
    • Explore outdoor gear swaps, used sections in outdoor shops, or online marketplaces. Not only do you save money, you give gear a new life.

Whittaker Mountaineering's Gear Cache is a great resource for light used mountaineering gear and apparel.

Welcome to The Gear Cache
Lightly used hiking, camping, climbing, mountaineering, and outdoor gear, footwear, and apparel straight from our rental program and RMI Guides. Great gear for even better discounts.
Sustainable Mountaineering Guide: Summit Smarter

Repair, Don’t Replace

    • Get skilled with a needle and thread—or at least some repair tape—to fix minor gear damage. A little patch on your tent floor or puffy jacket can extend its lifespan by years [Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering, 2012].

Sustainability in mountaineering gear is all about thinking long-term. A piece of equipment that lasts five expeditions instead of one means fewer resources extracted, manufactured, and transported.

Respect the Local Community

Trekking off to remote mountains can be a dream come true—but it also means entering somebody else’s backyard. Showing respect for local cultures and economies is just as important as minimizing your environmental footprint.

  1. Hire Local Guides & Porters
    • If you’re climbing internationally, lean on local expertise. Not only does this support the community economically, but you’re also likely to learn a ton about regional customs, traditions, and natural history [UIAA, 2023].
    • Ensure fair wages and humane working conditions. Organizations like the International Porter Protection Group and Porters’ Progress UK fight for better pay and treatment.
  2. Buy Local Produce and Supplies
    • Stock up on food and basic supplies from local businesses instead of shipping or importing everything from home. You’ll help pump money into the local economy and reduce transportation emissions.
    • Many communities near climbing destinations run small-scale farms. Purchasing fresh produce on-site can also reduce plastic packaging.
  3. Cultivate Cultural Sensitivity
    • Learn a few key phrases in the local language—at least how to say “hello” and “thank you.” This small gesture goes a long way in building goodwill.
    • Adhere to local guidelines for waste disposal, permitted camp locations, and cultural sites. Remember, these rules aren’t arbitrary—they’re often designed to protect the region’s environment and heritage [Nepal Tourism Board, 2023].

By actively supporting local communities, you help ensure that tourism remains a positive force—and not just a resource drain or cultural imposition.

Sustainable Mountaineering Guide: Summit Smarter
Everest Basecamp.

Mind Your On-Mountain Footprint

Once you’re on the mountain, day-to-day choices matter more than you might think. Remember that LNT (Leave No Trace) extends beyond just “picking up trash”; it’s a philosophy that touches every aspect of your expedition.

  1. Comprehensive Waste Management
    • Plan a Human Waste Strategy: Many iconic peaks lack an established infrastructure for handling human waste. Research local guidelines and come prepared with wag bags or biodegradable waste bags if that’s the recommended approach [Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering, 2012].
    • Pack Out Trash: Anything that comes in with you—energy bar wrappers, used coffee filters—must go out. If you come across litter left by others, consider it your good mountaineer deed of the day to carry it out.
  2. Choose Sustainable Energy Sources
    • Modern solar chargers and compact renewable energy kits can power your electronics at base camp or even high camps, reducing the need for gas-powered generators [RMI Expeditions, 2012].
    • Conserve energy by turning off devices when not in use—because your phone doesn’t need to be snapping a time-lapse 24/7.
  3. Camp on Durable Surfaces
    • Pick established tent sites to avoid crushing fragile alpine vegetation. If no official site exists, choose rock or gravel over vegetation [Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics, 2023].
    • Rotate your campsite if you’re staying multiple days to minimize the imprint you leave behind.

Sustainable Cuisine on the Mountain

Food is a big part of the mountaineering experience—nobody wants to summit on an empty stomach. But you can think sustainably about meal planning, too.

  1. Local & Low-Packaging Food
    • For climbs abroad, sourcing locally grown staples like rice, beans, lentils, or fresh produce reduces the need to transport or ship items in from afar.
    • Pre-repackaged freeze-dried meals can be convenient, but they also produce a ton of plastic. Consider mixing them with local ingredients, or at least removing excess packaging beforehand.
  2. Efficient Meal Prep
    • Choose dishes that cook quickly (like couscous, instant rice, or dehydrated veggies) to save fuel. Less time on the stove = fewer canisters burned.
    • Use communal pots and stoves to cut down on the number of burners running simultaneously.
  3. Carry Out Food Waste
    • Leftover scraps won’t decompose easily in cold, high-altitude terrain. Bag them up and pack them out, or compost them only if a designated system exists at base camp.

Food can be fun, nourishing, and an eco-friendly highlight of your trip—especially if you’ve planned it thoughtfully.

Go Digital (If Possible)

Long expedition packing lists often include maps, guidebooks, logbooks, and more. While you should always have a physical map and compass as a backup (electronic devices can fail), you can reduce paper consumption by going digital where it’s practical.

  1. Use Offline Navigation Apps
    • Apps like GAIA GPS or AllTrails let you download maps and terrain data for offline use [NOLS, 2023].
    • Keep your phone in airplane mode to save battery and rely on solar chargers as needed.
  2. Share E-Documents
    • Distribute itineraries, training plans, and medical forms electronically within your team. If printing is necessary, print double-sided or on recycled paper.

A balance between old-school reliability and modern digital convenience can help cut down on the reams of paperwork that often accompany big expeditions.

Spread the Word & Lead by Example

One of the most impactful ways to create a greener mountaineering culture is to share what you’re doing. Whether you’re a once-a-year climber or a seasoned expedition leader, modeling sustainable practices influences others.

  1. Offer Tips & Gear Reviews
    • Post about the secondhand equipment you used or share pictures of your waste-management system. Sure, it might not be as epic as a summit photo, but it can spark valuable conversations [American Alpine Club, 2023].
    • Shout out local businesses and guides who follow ethical, community-oriented practices.
  2. Organize Clean-Ups
    • If you’re part of a mountaineering club or community, invite others to a “clean climbing day” at a local crag or an organized effort to remove litter from base camps.
    • Many parks and climbing areas have volunteer programs dedicated to environmental stewardship—sign up, or start one if none exist.
  3. Engage with Policy & Conservation Efforts
    • The American Alpine Club and other organizations advocate for public lands protection, climate policy, and better management of fragile mountain ecosystems [American Alpine Club, 2023].
    • Lend your voice through petitions, donations, or membership, and encourage fellow climbers to do the same.

The more people see sustainable mountaineering as the norm rather than the exception, the faster we’ll all move toward preserving the mountains we love.

A Legacy of Lighter Footsteps

Mountains demand grit, determination, and respect. It’s only fair we extend that respect not just to the route itself, but to the ecosystems and communities that thrive in these high places. By researching your travel options, curating your gear responsibly, respecting local cultures, and being mindful of waste, you can slash your expedition’s environmental impact—often without sacrificing comfort or fun.

So next time you’re huddled in a tent at base camp, sipping hot tea and gazing at the summit you’re about to tackle, remember: your summit story should be about more than just “Did I make it?” Let it also be, “Did I leave this place better—or at least no worse—than I found it?” Follow the tips here, and you’ll be well on your way to ensuring the mountains remain just as awe-inspiring for the next wide-eyed adventurer setting foot on that trail.


References

  1. Plan Ahead and Prepare in Mountaineering. (2012, March 10). Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. Guest Blog by Linden Mallory, RMI Expeditions. Retrieved from https://lnt.org/plan-ahead-and-prepare-in-mountaineering/
  2. Gold Standard. (2023). Carbon Offsetting Programs. Retrieved from https://www.goldstandard.org/
  3. International Air Transport Association. (2022). Reducing Aviation’s Climate Impact. Retrieved from https://www.iata.org/en/programs/environment/climate-change/
  4. American Alpine Club. (2023). Land Conservation & Policy. Retrieved from https://americanalpineclub.org/policy
  5. UIAA. (2023). Climate Change & Sustainability. Retrieved from https://theuiaa.org/climate-change/
  6. Nepal Tourism Board. (2023). Official Tourism Website. Retrieved from https://www.welcomenepal.com/
  7. NOLS. (2023). Navigation and Digital Tools. Retrieved from https://www.nols.edu/en/
  8. Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics. (2023). The 7 Principles. Retrieved from https://lnt.org/why/7-principles/
  9. RMI Expeditions. (2012). Guiding Practices & Sustainable Expeditions. https://www.rmiguides.com/
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<![CDATA[Mountaineering Training: Recovery & Consolidation]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/recovery-and-consolidation-for-mountaineering-training/67eb31ecbf4c2d0001764f8aTue, 01 Apr 2025 00:29:26 GMT

Proper recovery and consolidation are critical yet often overlooked aspects of mountaineering training. After all, building endurance and strength is only half the equation: your body and mind need dedicated time to repair, adapt, and regain full energy. By balancing intense efforts with planned rest, you ensure that each training cycle leaves you stronger, more motivated, and better equipped for the mountains.

The Importance of Recovery in Mountaineering

Essential as the Training Itself

Mountaineering places massive demands on your cardiovascular system, muscular endurance, and mental fortitude. During climbs, even minor fatigue can quickly compound at high altitudes or on challenging terrain. A well-designed recovery strategy replenishes energy stores, repairs muscle fibers, and restores hormonal balance, ensuring you approach your next session (or summit day) with optimal readiness.

What Happens During Recovery?

  • Muscle Tissue Repairs and Strengthens: Microtears inflicted during training heal and adapt, improving resilience.
  • Energy Stores Replenish: Glycogen and other essential nutrients are restored in your muscles and liver.
  • Hormonal Balance Is Restored: Cortisol levels, testosterone, and growth hormone all re-align.
  • Cognitive and Mental Fatigue Is Reduced: Your brain gets a chance to recharge, enhancing focus for future climbs.

Key Takeaway: Without proper recovery, these adaptive processes remain incomplete, limiting your potential gains and putting you at risk of overtraining or injury.

Scheduling Consolidation Weeks

A consolidation week is a structured period of reduced training volume—often every three to five weeks—where your body can absorb the efforts from high-intensity training phases.

Why Consolidation Matters

  • Prevents Overtraining: Deliberately lowering volume and intensity allows deep physiological repair, staving off chronic fatigue (Meeusen et al., 2013).
  • Encourages Adaptations: Your body utilizes the reduced workload to synthesize proteins, enlarge mitochondria, and reinforce connective tissues (House & Johnston, 2014).
  • Maintains Consistent Progress: Rather than stalling or regressing, you come back refreshed, ready for higher-intensity future sessions.
🏔️
Benefits of Consolidation Weeks
- Prevents overtraining and burnout
- Encourages physiological adaptations
- Prepares the body for greater intensity in upcoming phases
- Supports sustainable, long-term improvement

How to Schedule: Aim for every four weeks (or roughly once a month) to reduce training volume to about 50% of the highest recent load. This might mean cutting your mileage or training hours in half, but maintaining some low-level activity to keep muscles limber.

Note: Feeling anxious about “losing fitness” during a consolidation week is common. Yet research and anecdotal experience show that planned rest increases overall gains, enabling you to train harder and safer in the long run.

Principles of Effective Recovery

1. Prioritize Sleep

Sleep is arguably the single most powerful recovery tool. During deep sleep stages, your body secretes human growth hormone (HGH), repairs muscle tissues, and cements new motor patterns learned during training.

Strategies for Optimizing Sleep:

  • Maintain a Consistent Schedule: Going to bed and waking up at the same times daily aligns with your circadian rhythm (National Sleep Foundation, 2020).
  • Create a Restful Environment: Use blackout curtains, reduce ambient noise, and keep your bedroom cool (~65°F/18°C).
  • Avoid Screen Time Before Bed: Blue light from devices can disrupt melatonin production.
  • Aim for at Least 8 Hours: Studies consistently show that 7–9 hours is ideal for athletic performance and recovery.
  • Nap for Enhanced Recovery: Brief midday naps of around 20–30 minutes can improve alertness and accelerate muscle repair—particularly useful during intensive training blocks (American Alpine Club, 2021).

2. Maintain Balanced Nutrition

Recovery hinges on providing your body with the right nutrients. If you’re consistently underfed or missing key vitamins and minerals, the adaptation process stalls.

Focus Areas:

  • Nutrient-Dense Foods: Prioritize lean proteins, complex carbohydrates, healthy fats, and ample fruits and vegetables.
  • Stay Hydrated: Proper fluid intake flushes out metabolic byproducts and supports cardiovascular efficiency (Mountaineers, 2018).
  • Limit Excessive Alcohol: Alcohol disrupts sleep patterns and can impair muscle recovery by affecting protein synthesis.
“A post-workout snack within 5-10 minutes of completing your workout is critical to jumpstart recovery!" - Pete Van Deventer, RMI Guide

3. Incorporate Light Active Recovery

Gentle, low-impact activities on rest days—such as short walks, stretching, or easy cycling—can boost blood flow without causing further fatigue. This subtle movement helps flush out waste products and reduces muscle soreness, preventing the stiffness that often follows intense workouts.

Caution: Make sure these sessions remain truly light. If you push too hard, your “recovery day” morphs into an extra training session, which can hamper adaptation.

Moderation and Consistency in Training

While a motivated approach to training is essential, extremes can derail progress. Overzealous athletes often stack volume and intensity too quickly, leading to injuries or burnout.

Key Guidelines:

  1. Incrementally Increase Workload: Follow the “10% rule,” adding no more than ~10% volume or intensity weekly.
  2. Prioritize Steady Gains: Aim for small, consistent steps in your fitness rather than huge leaps that risk overtraining.
  3. Value Consistency: Sporadic bursts of high-intensity training are less effective than well-planned, methodical progress.

Reflection and Next Steps After a Climb

After a successful (or even unsuccessful) climb, deliberate rest and reflection ensure you extract maximum value from your experience. This downtime can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, depending on climb severity, altitude, and your personal recovery needs.

Steps for Effective Post-Climb Reflection:

  1. Rest Thoroughly: Take a break from intense activity—both to heal physically and to decompress mentally.
  2. Assess What Worked: Identify the training methods or gear choices that aided your summit push.
  3. Identify Surprising Challenges: Note specific moments that tested your stamina, technique, or mindset.
  4. Revise Training Plan: If certain weaknesses emerged—balance, anaerobic capacity, or altitude tolerance—incorporate targeted strategies next time.
🏔️
Personal Anecdote from Linden Mallory, Former RMI Guide
“A few weeks after returning from my first expedition to a remote peak in the Andes, I realized that while I felt aerobically strong, slight increases in pace or pack weight dramatically heightened my exertion. Traversing loose rock fields and penitentes also exposed weaknesses in my balance. Reflecting on these challenges, I added interval training to boost my anaerobic threshold and introduced balance exercises. On my next expedition, the improvement was remarkable, demonstrating the value of targeted training.”

Planning Your Next Climb

Once you feel refreshed—physically and mentally—dive into planning your upcoming objective. By mapping out the demands of your next mountain (duration, altitude, terrain, climate), you can tailor your training to address those specific challenges.

Example Training Adjustments

  • Extended Expeditions (Denali, Aconcagua): Emphasize heavy-pack endurance, aerobic capacity for multiple long days, and cold-weather gear management.
  • Shorter Climbs (North Cascades, Mexico Peaks): Prioritize aerobic fitness, moderate strength, flexibility, and agility for varied terrain.

Tip: If you discovered a particular vulnerability (e.g., you struggled at altitude), incorporate targeted exercises, gear tweaks, or specialized training to improve that aspect.

Keeping the Passion Alive

Mountaineering success isn’t solely measured by summits. It’s also the entire journey—from prepping gear and planning routes to pushing yourself physically and mentally, then returning home with lessons learned. Maintaining balance and motivation ensures you don’t just burn brightly and fizzle out; you stay in the game for years of amazing climbs.

Remember:

  • Balance: Sustain a healthy ratio of intense training, recovery, and personal life.
  • Effective Recovery: Sleep, moderate nutrition, and consolidation weeks are indispensable.
  • Joy and Curiosity: Remind yourself why you fell in love with the mountains—this mindset keeps you enthusiastic even when training is tough.

Final Thoughts

Recovery and consolidation are the linchpins of sustainable mountaineering success. Strategic rest, mindful reflection, and controlled training volume not only reduce the risk of injuries and burnout but also sharpen your mental edge. By weaving consolidation weeks into your schedule, optimizing sleep and nutrition, and taking time to reflect post-climb, you set yourself up for continual growth and deeper enjoyment in the mountains.

So, as you plan your next expedition—whether a weekend ascent or a multi-week Himalayan adventure—carve out intentional rest and reflection. In doing so, you’ll heighten your climbing resilience, preserve your passion, and discover just how far your mountaineering ambitions can take you.

References & Further Reading

  • American Alpine Club. (2021). Education & Skills for Climbers. https://americanalpineclub.org/education
  • House, S., & Johnston, S. (2014). Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete. Patagonia Books.
  • Meeusen, R., et al. (2013). Prevention, diagnosis, and treatment of the overtraining syndrome: joint consensus statement of the European College of Sport Science and the American College of Sports Medicine. European Journal of Sport Science.
  • Mountaineers. (2018). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). The Mountaineers Books.
  • National Sleep Foundation. (2020). How Much Sleep Do We Really Need? https://www.thensf.org/
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<![CDATA[Interval Training for Mountaineering Endurance]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/interval-training-for-endurance-in-mountaineering/67eb2f85bf4c2d0001764f51Tue, 01 Apr 2025 00:21:56 GMT

High-intensity interval training (HIIT) has surged in popularity for good reason: it delivers significant cardiovascular and muscular benefits in a relatively short time. While often associated with general fitness or sports like running and cycling, interval training also holds profound implications for mountaineers seeking to boost endurance, push higher anaerobic thresholds, and build the mental toughness essential for high-altitude climbs. This article explores the practical applications, historical context, and personal experiences related to interval training in a mountaineering context—plus tips on avoiding pitfalls and balancing high-intensity work with necessary recovery.

Keep in mind that the best type of Interval Training you can do for mountaineering will mimic mountaineering as closely as possible - Footborne is best, bike is close, and swimming less effective for our sport (but maybe necessary for people with pain/joint/other issues that prevent a lot of foodborne training.)

Why Interval Training Matters for Mountaineers

Mountaineering demands not just long, steady endurance, but also the ability to handle sudden efforts—like powering up a steep face, navigating technical sections, or kicking steps in deep snow. Interval training develops both the aerobic capacity needed for sustained climbing and the anaerobic efficiency required for short, strenuous bursts. By incorporating intervals, climbers improve:

  1. Cardiovascular Performance: Interval workouts raise stroke volume (the amount of blood pumped per heartbeat) and cardiac output.
  2. Muscular Endurance: Repeated efforts at high intensity train muscles to clear lactate more effectively.
  3. Lactate Threshold: Pushing the body near its limit teaches it to operate at higher intensities without “red-lining.”
  4. Mental Fortitude: Enduring discomfort in short intervals prepares you to face the challenges of altitude and exhaustion in the mountains.

Many top mountaineering guides and endurance coaches—such as those at Uphill Athlete—emphasize interval sessions as a valuable supplement to long, slow distance training. When properly balanced with recovery, intervals can accelerate fitness gains and help climbers adapt to physically and mentally demanding conditions at higher elevations.

Understanding Interval Training

In essence, interval training alternates periods of intense effort with intervals of active recovery. The structure can vary depending on your goals: Pushing your aerobic threshold higher is best accomplished via fartleks or 4x4 or other longer intervals, while pushing your anaerobic threshold and building explosive strength may use 30 sec to 1 minute intervals. Regardless of format, the main goal is to push beyond your comfort zone, then allow partial recovery before attacking another effort.

💡
Key Physiological Benefits
Enhanced Oxygen Utilization: During high-intensity bouts, your muscles demand more oxygen. Over time, your body adapts by increasing capillary density and mitochondrial function.

Greater Anaerobic Capacity: Intervals tax the anaerobic energy pathway, teaching your body to clear lactate more efficiently.

Improved VO₂ Max: Although mountaineering coaches often stress aerobic threshold over VO₂ Max, short, intense intervals can still help elevate your maximal oxygen uptake to some extent.

Brief History of Interval Training

While high-intensity training may seem like a modern fitness trend, its roots date back nearly a century. In the 1930s, Swedish coach Gösta Holmér developed the “fartlek” workout—meaning “speed play”—to revitalize the Swedish cross-country running team. This approach introduced unstructured intervals of faster running mixed with easier paces, mimicking the varied demands of natural terrain.

Over the decades, interval training principles evolved:

  • 1940s–1950s: German physiologists Hans Reindell and Woldemar Gerschler popularized structured interval methods, influencing track and field programs worldwide.
  • 1960s–1970s: Coaches like Bill Bowerman (University of Oregon) and Arthur Lydiard integrated interval concepts into their distance training programs.
  • Today: Various sports use intervals to develop speed, power, and metabolic efficiency, including cyclists, swimmers, CrossFit athletes, and yes—mountaineers.

Types of Interval Workouts

Below are three primary interval formats particularly beneficial for mountaineers. Each addresses slightly different aspects of performance, from mental adaptability to raw power output.

Fartlek (Speed Play)

Fartlek workouts are unstructured intervals that alternate high and moderate intensities, simulating real-world mountain terrain variability. Because steep pitches, uneven terrain, and route changes require sudden shifts in pace, fartlek’s playful format aligns perfectly with mountaineering demands.

How to Perform Fartlek Workouts:

  • Warm-Up: Spend 10–15 minutes at an easy pace to limber up muscles and joints.
  • Varying Paces: Increase your pace intermittently toward randomly selected landmarks (trees, signs, or short uphill sections).
  • Recovery: Return to a comfortable pace between efforts.
  • Duration: Typically 45 minutes or more, but can be adapted to your schedule.
Interval Training for Mountaineering Endurance
Example of a Fartlek Run https://pdhpe.net/improving-performance/how-do-athletes-train-for-improved-performance/aerobic-training/fartlek/

4x4 Interval Workout

The 4x4 interval is a structured session comprising four intervals, each at high intensity, followed by designated recovery periods. Popularized by Norwegian sports scientists, it’s known for elevating aerobic capacity and boosting anaerobic performance.

Performing the 4x4 Workout:

  1. Warm-Up (10–15 mins): Gradually raise your heart rate with an easy jog or brisk hike.
  2. Interval (4 mins): Push at a high intensity (Zone 4–5), where conversation is impossible, and your breathing is labored.
  3. Recovery (2 mins): Drop to an easy pace (Zone 1–2).
  4. Repeat the 4-minute interval + 2-minute recovery cycle four times.
  5. Cool-Down (10–15 mins): Slow down gradually, returning to an easy pace.
🏔️
Why 4x4 Works for Mountaineers:
- Trains both cardiovascular system and muscular endurance at high intensities.
- Simulates the repeated demands of climbing steep terrain, taking short breaks on ledges, and then pushing again.

Ladder Intervals

Ladder intervals progressively increase, then decrease effort durations within a single session. This up-and-down structure helps simulate the fluctuating challenges of a climb—rapidly varying efforts for navigating steeper sections or overcoming obstacles.

Example Ladder Interval Session

  1. Warm-Up (10 mins): Easy pace jogging or hiking.
  2. Climb the Ladder:
    • 1 min hard / 1 min recovery
    • 2 mins hard / 2 mins recovery
    • 4 mins hard / 2 mins recovery
    • 6 mins hard (3 min recovery)
      1. Somewhere around the 4 minute on mark, switch to 50% recovery to make sure that you don't cool down and heart rate doesn't drop too much going into the next.
  3. Descend the Ladder:
    • 4 mins hard / 2 mins recovery
    • 2 mins hard / 2 mins recovery
    • 1 min hard / 1 min recovery
  4. Cool-Down (10 mins): Easy pace to bring heart rate down.

Benefits for Climbers:

  • Trains your ability to adjust intensity mid-climb.
  • Encourages both physical and mental agility, mirroring real mountaineering scenarios where energy demands can suddenly spike.

Interval Training on Bikes and Trainers

When weather, work, or life constraints limit outdoor access, indoor cycling intervals offer an excellent alternative. They target the same cardiovascular and muscular systems as running or uphill hikes, with minimal impact on joints—a big plus for those balancing mountaineering with life in the lowlands.

JJ Justman’s “Big Mountain Climbing Machine” Workout

Former RMI Guide JJ Justman shares his personal indoor interval cycling workout designed to push both aerobic and anaerobic limits:

“Here in Ashford, the rain often keeps me indoors. But my passion for high-altitude mountaineering and cycling means I can’t let weather disrupt my training. My go-to indoor cycling interval session is simple yet incredibly effective.”

JJ’s Interval Cycling Workout:

  1. Warm-Up (6 mins): Easy pedaling, gradually increasing pace.
  2. Main Set:
    • 15 intervals of 1 minute all-out effort (Pain Scale: 9–10)
    • Each followed by 1 minute easy recovery (Pain Scale: 3)
  3. Cool-Down (4 mins): Easy pedaling to clear lactic acid.

“I perform this workout while watching recorded Tour de France stages—nothing beats pretending I’m out-sprinting Philippe Gilbert! Pushing through these intense intervals not only builds my physical capacity but develops the mental toughness required for challenging ascents like Denali’s fixed lines.”

Benefits of Interval Training for Mountaineering

1. Enhanced Cardiovascular Efficiency

Intervals push your heart and lungs to work near their capacity, increasing stroke volume (blood pumped per heartbeat) and overall cardiac output. This efficiency is essential for oxygen delivery at high altitudes.

2. Improved Anaerobic and Lactate Threshold

By repeatedly pushing into higher heart rate zones, interval workouts raise your anaerobic threshold. You’ll be able to sustain higher-intensity efforts—such as steep pitches—without significant lactate buildup.

3. Mental Resilience

Interval training is inherently uncomfortable. Overcoming that discomfort fosters mental toughness, enabling you to manage pain, fatigue, and challenging conditions effectively during prolonged climbs.

Balancing Interval Training with Recovery

Intervals are highly demanding. While they can accelerate fitness gains, they also stress your muscles, cardiovascular system, and central nervous system. Overdoing intervals without adequate rest can lead to overtraining, injury, or chronic fatigue.

Tips for Balancing Intensity & Recovery:

  • Limit Interval Work: 1–2 sessions a week is typically sufficient for most climbers.
  • Vary Intensities: Pair intense workouts with steady-state endurance days and low-intensity recovery hikes/runs.
  • Listen to Your Body: If you’re fatigued, give yourself a lighter day or complete rest.

Interval Training Myths and Realities

Interval training’s popularity has spawned numerous misconceptions—particularly the idea that short, high-intensity workouts can replace all other forms of training.

  • Myth: “HIIT is enough to conquer any summit.”
    • Reality: Mountaineering demands prolonged efforts at moderate intensities. Intervals should complement—not replace—long, steady workouts.
  • Myth: “No need for LSD (Long Slow Distance) or base training.”
    • Reality: A strong aerobic base remains crucial for multi-hour ascents; intervals build on that foundation.
  • Myth: “The more intervals, the faster the gains.”
    • Reality: Overemphasis on intervals can lead to burnout or Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (ADS). Balance is key.

Final Thoughts

Interval training, integrated thoughtfully into your overall approach, can significantly enhance mountaineering performance. By combining structured sessions like 4x4 and ladder intervals with more free-form types like fartlek—and by experimenting with indoor cycling or other cross-training methods—you create a versatile, robust regimen.

Remember: Intervals are one piece of the puzzle. Maintaining a solid aerobic base, prioritizing recovery, and including strength sessions all remain critical. Done correctly, interval training not only boosts your physical endurance but also builds mental resilience, ensuring that when the steep sections come—or when altitude tries to slow you down—you have the capacity to persevere.

References & Further Reading

  • Uphill Athlete (2020). “Interval Training Strategies for Alpine Climbers.” https://uphillathlete.com/
  • House, S., & Johnston, S. (2014). Training for the New Alpinism. Patagonia Books.
  • Balsom, P. D., Gaitanos, G. C., Soderlund, K., & Ekblom, B. (1999). High-intensity exercise and muscle energy metabolism. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports.
  • The Mountaineers. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills. The Mountaineers Books.
  • American Alpine Club: https://americanalpineclub.org/education
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<![CDATA[Aerobic Base Training for Mountaineering Success]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/establishing-an-aerobic-foundation-for-mountaineering/67eb25fabf4c2d0001764f10Mon, 31 Mar 2025 23:53:15 GMT

Mountaineering requires you to keep moving over rugged terrain at moderate to high altitudes, often for hours or days on end. In this demanding environment, aerobic fitness forms the bedrock of success. A robust aerobic foundation enables mountaineers to conserve energy, recover more quickly, and sustain steady effort as they push toward the summit.

This guide offers a deep dive into the key elements of aerobic training, showing you how to balance steady long efforts with targeted intensity sessions to elevate your climbing performance. Drawing on principles from experienced mountain coaches and popular endurance training resources, we’ll explore proven methodologies and practical tips to help you build the endurance you need.

Why Aerobic Base Training Is Essential

Aerobic base training lies at the heart of any mountaineering fitness plan. When you trek up a glacier or carry a heavy pack across steep trails, your body relies heavily on its aerobic energy systems. The stronger your aerobic foundation, the more efficiently you can:

  • Process Oxygen in lower-oxygen environments.
  • Burn Fat for fuel, preserving glycogen stores for more demanding efforts.
  • Recover from day to day during multi-day climbs.

This concept isn’t limited to elite climbers. Whether you’re a weekend hiker preparing for a 14,000-foot summit or an alpinist chasing technical routes in the Himalayas, investing in aerobic base training reaps long-term dividends. According to Steve House and Scott Johnston—authors of Training for the New Alpinism—a consistent focus on “aerobic capacity” is paramount for effective, resilient climbing performance.

Key Benefits of Aerobic Training

  • Increased Mitochondrial Density: Boosts muscles’ ability to utilize oxygen for sustained work (House & Johnston, 2014).
  • Improved Capillary Networks: Expands blood flow capacity, delivering oxygen and nutrients more efficiently.
  • Lower Lactate Production: Delays muscle fatigue, letting you maintain moderate exertion for longer.
Aerobic Base Training for Mountaineering Success
This figure illustrates key skeletal muscle adaptations to aerobic and resistance exercise, highlighting the role of molecular transducers of these effects that are described in the text. State of Knowledge on Molecular Adaptations to Exercise in Humans: Historical Perspectives and Future Directions - Scientific Figure on ResearchGate. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/This-figure-illustrates-key-skeletal-muscle-adaptations-to-aerobic-and-resistance_fig2_359123021 [accessed 31 Mar 2025]

The Science of Aerobic Development

Historical Foundations

Modern approaches to aerobic training often trace back to Arthur Lydiard, the influential New Zealand running coach. Lydiard popularized the idea that aerobic training isn’t just “long and slow,” but can and should be divided into specific workout types:

  1. Long Duration Workouts: Low-intensity, extended sessions to strengthen your overall endurance base.
  2. Steady-State Workouts: Moderate-intensity efforts held at a sustained pace for 20–60 minutes.
  3. Fartlek Workouts: Less structured runs or hikes, alternating between easier segments and moderately challenging bouts.

Why It Matters for Mountaineering

Mountaineering calls for extended, low-to-moderate intensity output—often with occasional intense bursts (e.g., ascending a steep pitch or crossing a tricky crevasse). Developing a wide “aerobic engine” helps you handle these diverse demands. Renowned performance physiologist Dr. Philip Skiba points out that an athlete’s ability to switch between steady aerobic efforts and brief surges largely hinges on the robustness of their aerobic base.

Reference: For more on how aerobic development underpins endurance sports, see the resources provided by Uphill Athlete, co-founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston.

Common Training Terms Explained

Aerobic Threshold (AeT)

  • Definition: The intensity at which lactate begins accumulating in the bloodstream. Staying below AeT emphasizes fat as a primary fuel source and spares glycogen for higher-intensity needs.
  • Mountaineering Relevance: Helps identify an “all-day pace” you can maintain without undue fatigue.

Lactate Threshold (LT)

  • Definition: The exercise intensity where lactate production surpasses its rate of clearance. Operating above this level for too long leads to rapid fatigue.
  • Mountaineering Relevance: On steep sections, you might temporarily exceed LT; however, a strong base can help you recover faster when you scale back.

VO₂ Max

  • Definition: The maximal oxygen uptake possible during high-intensity exertion.
  • Mountaineering Relevance: While historically a key metric, many mountaineering coaches (House & Johnston, 2014) find that improving AeT and LT is more beneficial than fixating on VO₂ Max alone.

Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (ADS)

When a climber’s training program skews too heavily toward high-intensity workouts (like repeated sprints or heavy interval focus) at the expense of low-intensity, longer-duration work, Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (ADS) can develop.

💡
Signs of Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (ADS)Unexpected Fatigue: Even moderate climbs feel exhausting.
High Heart Rates at Easy Paces: You can’t hold a conversational effort without drifting into a higher HR zone.
Rapid Lactate Accumulation: Muscles burn quickly at intensities where you should be cruising.

How to Avoid ADS

Ensure the bulk of your training focuses on sustained, lower-intensity aerobic work—often referred to as “Zone 1–2” training. Occasional speed or interval sessions are still valuable, but if they dominate your program, you risk undermining your aerobic foundation.

Steady State Workouts & Key Aerobic Sessions

Steady-State Workouts

Steady-state workouts involve maintaining a moderate-to-high intensity (80–85% of your max heart rate, or around Zone 3 in many heart rate models) for 20 minutes to an hour. They bridge the gap between easy, low-intensity aerobic work and threshold-level intervals.

  • Physiological Benefits: Improves cardiac output, enhances lactate threshold, and can lower resting heart rate over time.
  • Mountaineering Benefits: Develops comfort at a “moderately challenging pace,” enabling you to handle consistent uphill slopes without spiking your heart rate.

Implementing Steady State Workouts

  1. Choose Activities: Running, cycling, incline treadmill, or uphill hiking.
  2. Session Duration: 20–60 minutes, depending on current fitness and phase of training.
  3. Keep Pace Consistent: Avoid slowing down mid-workout—aim for a rhythm that’s tough but sustainable.

Measuring Steady State Workout Intensity

  • Heart Rate Monitors: Look for around 80–85% of max HR.
  • Perceived Exertion: A steady push—challenging, but you shouldn’t be gasping.
  • Pace/Speed: Remain relatively even throughout the session, with minimal fade.
💡
Myths About VO₂ Max
1. It Alone Predicts Success: Actually, high VO₂ Max doesn’t guarantee strong mountaineering performance.
2. You Can Drastically Elevate It: Genetic factors heavily influence VO₂ Max; gains often plateau quickly.
3. It’s the Only Metric That Matters: Focusing on aerobic threshold or your “long game” yields better results for many climbers.

Other Aerobic Workout Types

Long Duration (Low-Intensity) Workouts

  • Focus: Building a deep aerobic base and mental resilience.
  • Practical Tip: Gradually extend the time or distance of weekly hikes or runs. If you live near moderate hills or mountain trails, use them for multi-hour sessions with or without a weighted pack.

Fartlek or “Speed Play”

  • Focus: Mixing easier paces with short, moderate surges.
  • Mountaineering Relevance: Mimics the varied intensity of climbing—long steady sections punctuated by bursts of steeper or more technical terrain.

Structuring an Aerobic-Focused Training Plan

Below is a sample framework for integrating aerobic training into a typical climbing-focused schedule. The key principle: a significant portion of your weekly volume remains in Zones 1–2, ensuring you genuinely develop that aerobic foundation.

Workout Type

Frequency

Purpose

Long, Low-Intensity Hike/Run

1–2 times per week

Building raw endurance, mental stamina, and basic aerobic engine

Steady-State Sessions

1–2 times per week

Improving heart stroke volume, raising lactate threshold

Fartlek or Moderate Interval

1 time per week

Enhancing aerobic range and responsiveness, preventing plateau

Strength Training

2 times per week

Maintaining muscular support for carrying loads and climbing tasks

Rest/Active Recovery

1–2 times per week

Facilitating adaptation, preventing overtraining

Progressive Overload

  • Incremental Increase: Each week or two, slightly increase the volume (mileage, hours, or vertical gain) of your low-intensity sessions, while keeping the intensity in check.
  • Phased Approach: Reserve more intense or specific workouts (like threshold intervals) for after you’ve established a solid base.

Example Workout Descriptions

  1. Long Hike with Pack (4–6 hours, Zone 1–2): Focus on maintaining a conversational pace.
  2. Steady-State Run (30–45 minutes, 80–85% max HR): A “tempo-like” effort that challenges heart and lungs but is still sustainable.
  3. Fartlek Session (30 minutes): Alternate 2 minutes moderate effort with 2 minutes easy effort, repeated for the duration.

Additional Considerations for Success

Importance of Warm-Up and Cool-Down

  • Recommendation: Spend 10–15 minutes gradually elevating heart rate before more intense sessions and incorporate gentle stretching afterward.
  • Rationale: Proper warm-up boosts muscle temperature and joint mobility, while cooling down aids recovery and reduces injury risk.

Nutrition and Hydration

  • Eating to Fuel Aerobic Gains: Complex carbohydrates and healthy fats are essential for prolonged activity.
  • During Long Sessions: Consume easy-to-digest snacks (e.g., energy gels or dried fruit) every 60–90 minutes.
  • Post-Workout: A balanced meal with protein, carbs, and micronutrients aids muscle repair.
  • Reputable Source: The American Alpine Club offers nutrition tips for climbers in their educational resources; see also Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills for fueling strategies.

Rest, Recovery, and Sleep

  • Recovery Windows: Schedule at least 1 rest day per week to let your aerobic adaptations “lock in.”
  • Quality Sleep: Consistently aiming for 7–9 hours supports hormonal balance and muscle repair, a cornerstone of any serious training regimen.
  • Stress Management: Overtraining combined with life stress can lead to burnout. Keep an eye on resting heart rate or HRV (heart rate variability) if available.

Elevation-Specific Considerations

  • Acclimatization: Even the best aerobic base can’t fully negate the effects of high altitude. Plan time to acclimatize during multi-day expeditions.
  • High-Altitude Prep: Pre-acclimatization protocols (like sleeping in altitude tents) exist, but a robust aerobic base remains vital to cope with oxygen-thin environments.

Mental Benefits of Aerobic Training

Long, steady efforts cultivate mental resilience—a critical asset when conditions get tough. Uphill Athlete cites that a steady, methodical approach to training builds confidence in your physical abilities, which in turn reduces stress and anxiety on summit day.

Final Thoughts: Consistency Is Key

Developing a solid aerobic foundation demands patience, discipline, and steady effort. But the rewards—more efficient movement under load, less fatigue, and heightened confidence for high-altitude climbs—are well worth the investment. Whether you’re aiming for Rainier, Denali, or a lofty Himalayan peak, a strong aerobic base sets you up for success on every step of the journey.

Keep in mind that the minimum time to improve your aerobic base is around 8 weeks, but gains will be limited. 16 to 24 weeks is a much more effective timeframe for seeing significant improvement with focused training. 

Key Takeaways

  • Prioritize long, slow aerobic efforts for the majority of your training volume.
  • Add steady-state sessions to boost your lactate threshold.
  • Use fartlek or moderate intervals sparingly to maintain adaptability.
  • Balance strength training for full-body support under a heavy pack.
  • Never neglect rest and recovery—the time you spend recharging is when adaptation truly happens.

By following these time-tested principles, you’ll forge the endurance needed for ambitious mountaineering goals and fully savor the experience of being in the mountains.

References & Further Reading

  • House, S., & Johnston, S. (2014). Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete. Patagonia Books.
  • Uphill Athlete. https://uphillathlete.com/
  • The Mountaineers (2018). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). The Mountaineers Books.
  • Skiba, P. (2015). Scientific Training for Endurance Athletes. PhysFarm Publications.
  • American Alpine Club. https://americanalpineclub.org/education
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<![CDATA[Building a Supportive Climbing Training Community]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/building-a-training-community/67dc89e76c5d5d00012f85deThu, 20 Mar 2025 21:40:57 GMT

When you watch an elite runner cross a marathon finish line, you’ll likely see them point to their cheering squad, coach, or training partners. After a climber achieves a major first ascent, they’ll thank the mentors, rope teams, and supporters who made it possible. Few athletes achieve peak performance alone. In the world of mountaineering, community can be an especially potent catalyst. Yet for many of us—whether due to our location, irregular schedules, or not knowing other like-minded climbers—our training can feel solitary.

In this article, we’ll explore why community matters so much, how to build an effective training community (even if you live far from the mountains), and practical steps you can take to leverage collective motivation. Drawing on sports psychology, coaching best practices, and real-world testimonials, we’ll show how a supportive network can turbocharge your fitness journey for that next summit or glacier climb.


Why a Training Community Matters

The Power of Collective Motivation

Research in sports psychology emphasizes how social support can elevate both consistency and intensity in training (Rees & Freeman, 2009). When you have friends or teammates committed to similar goals, you’re more likely to:

  • Stick to Your Plan: Accountability becomes natural when other people notice if you skip a session.
  • Push Harder: A partner or coach can encourage you to do “just one more rep” or hike another lap up a local hill.
  • Share Knowledge: From gear hacks to altitude tips, exchanging lessons learned fosters faster improvement.

The Emotional and Psychological Boost

Mountaineering is mentally challenging: uncertain weather, long summit days, and the inherent risks of high-altitude environments demand resilience. A supportive community helps you process setbacks, maintain confidence, and celebrate milestones. Studies show that athletes who feel socially connected report higher self-efficacy and lower burnout rates (Smith et al., 2019).

Real-World Example

Think of your favorite climbing icon—Chad Kellogg, Sasha DiGiulian, Hilaree Nelson, or Reinhold Messner. Nearly all have credited mentors, coaches, or local clubs that shaped their early development. Even “solo” ascents come after hundreds of hours training in a social context, gleaning feedback and motivation from peers.

Overcoming Barriers to Building Your Community

Geographic Limitations

Living far from the mountains doesn’t mean you can’t find climbers or endurance athletes nearby. Often, local running, cycling, or gym communities are filled with potential training partners who share an interest in challenging pursuits. What matters is forging connections around similar intensities of effort and shared accountability (RMI Newsletter excerpt).

Scheduling Conflicts

  • Different Work Hours: If you only have time to train at 5:00 a.m. or 9:00 p.m., find an online group to compare workouts and exchange notes, or see if a local group has “off-peak” sessions.
  • Family & Life Obligations: Consider forming or joining a group that meets your unique schedule—perhaps a 30-minute lunch run club at your workplace or a weekend hiking meet-up with other parents.

Fear of Judgment or Comparison

Some climbers worry they’ll be judged if they post “modest” workouts or haven’t summited a 14,000-foot peak yet. In reality, seeing everyone’s incremental progress can be a source of inspiration and empathy. Positive, supportive cultures encourage each participant, regardless of level (Carron & Eys, 2012).

“For some, it may be intimidating to post their workout in an open environment like this, but realize that inspiration from your workout may be just what someone else needs.”RMI Newsletter excerpt

Online Platforms: Creating a Virtual Basecamp

When distance or scheduling keeps you isolated, digital communities bridge the gap. The RMI Expeditions Strava Club is one example, but there are many platforms to explore:

  1. Strava
    • Key Feature: Activity tracking, route sharing, and segment comparisons.
    • Mountaineering-Specific Benefit: See each other’s vertical gain, weighted pack distances, or backcountry ski tours for real-time motivation.
  2. Facebook Groups & Subreddits
    • Key Feature: Discussion boards for training plans, gear talk, or expedition stories.
    • Mountaineering-Specific Benefit: Great for Q&A on local rock gyms, altitude tips, or meeting potential partners for multi-pitch weekends.
  3. WhatsApp or Discord
    • Key Feature: Small, chat-based groups for day-to-day check-ins.
    • Mountaineering-Specific Benefit: Real-time encouragement and quick voice notes about your last training session or approach plans.
💡
Harnessing Accountability Online
Post a weekly goal every Monday—e.g., “2,000 vertical feet by Friday”—and report your progress daily.

Share photos or short videos from a treadmill incline workout or a local park hike to keep things authentic and engaging.

Building or Joining Local Groups

Start Where You Are

  • Gyms and Climbing Walls: Chat with others who regularly boulder or top-rope. Many might be working toward the same big objectives and be open to forming a group.
  • Outdoor Clubs: Look for hiking or mountaineering clubs affiliated with organizations like the American Alpine Club or the Sierra Club.
  • Local Race or Charity Events: Endurance-based 10Ks, half marathons, or triathlons often attract adventure enthusiasts open to cross-training collaborations.

Host a “Training Meet-Up”

  • Weekend Hike: Invite potential partners for a local trail day, even if it’s just a few miles.
  • Stair Sessions: If you live in a flat area, gather folks at a stadium or tall building for weekly stair repeats.
  • Pack Walks: Strap on a 30+ lb pack and walk around a local track or neighborhood—fellow participants can commiserate and push each other.

Positive and Constructive Communication

A key to sustaining any training group—online or in-person—is healthy dialogue. Make sure your community fosters:

  1. Encouragement Over Critique
    • Offer supportive suggestions, but avoid a competitive or judgmental tone.
    • Celebrate small victories (like an extra hour on the treadmill or nailing correct squat form) as much as big ones.
  2. Solution-Focused Feedback
    • If someone complains about knee pain, propose exercises or gear adjustments that have worked for you, or suggest seeing a physical therapist.
    • If you disagree with a training approach, share your perspective tactfully, referencing evidence or personal experience.
  3. Collaboration, Not Comparison
    • Remember that every climber’s background, genetics, and daily responsibilities differ.
    • Emphasize shared motivation: “If we all log a 10-mile hike this week, let’s reward ourselves with a group dinner!”

Example: The RMI Expeditions Strava Club

“…when we post back to the community, our effort can serve as someone else’s motivation, and as a group, we all train harder, smarter, better.”RMI Newsletter excerpt

The success of such a club lies in members sharing everything from easy recovery walks to intense mountain runs, giving kudos, and exchanging training tips—keeping the atmosphere constructive and positive.

Ashford, Washington | RMI Expeditions Training to Climb
This is a gathering place for climbers and guides training for peaks from Mt. Rainier to Mt. Everest to come together, share insights, and gain inspiration. The harder, smarter, and better we train, the more enjoyable our next climb will be. Please keep conversations constructive and positive. Let’s learn from one another!
Building a Supportive Climbing Training Community

Leveraging Coaching and Mentorship

Even if you can’t hire a full-time mountaineering coach, you can seek out mentors or experts within your community:

  • Local Guides or Experienced Climbers: Some might offer group courses or occasional training tips.
  • Certifications and Workshops: Check if your local gym or an online platform hosts sessions about high-altitude physiology, nutrition, or advanced rope skills.
  • Virtual Coaching: Many coaches now provide digital services, analyzing your workout data and offering customized plans.

One More Rep, One More Lap

Coaches and mentors often push you out of your comfort zone. From an extra set of squats to an extended loop on the treadmill, structured feedback can yield significant performance gains (Vickers, 2007).

Sustaining Momentum and Navigating Setbacks

Celebrate Milestones

  • Monthly Summits: If your group completes a shared challenge (e.g., 10,000 feet of vertical in a month), do a social event or a group meal.
  • Mini-Competitions: Friendly competition—like who can log the most consistent training hours—can keep everyone engaged.

Support Through Injury or Plateau

  • Encouraging Rest: A strong community reminds you to take rest days or rehab injuries properly, preventing long-term setbacks.
  • Sharing Plateaus: If someone’s stuck, brainstorming new exercise routines or gear solutions can help them break through.

Adjust Goals as a Team

  • Realistic Timelines: If a group member has an upcoming climb, align weekly or monthly goals to support them. Maybe everyone does a dedicated stair session to “join in” their prep.
  • Seasonal Variation: Use winter to focus on strength or cross-country skiing if you have local access, and shift to more climbing-specific hikes in spring/summer.

Key Takeaways for Building Your Training Community

  1. You’re Stronger Together
    • Accountability, motivation, and shared knowledge accelerate your growth more than solo sessions alone.
  2. Embrace Digital Tools
    • Platforms like Strava, Facebook, and Discord connect you with others even if you live in different time zones or training schedules.
  3. Local Groups Provide Hands-On Support
    • Look for climbing gyms, meet-ups, or fitness clubs. Even a handful of consistent partners can make a big difference.
  4. Stay Positive and Inclusive
    • Everyone has off-days or personal limitations. Encouragement goes further than criticism.
  5. Adapt, Learn, and Evolve
    • Keep your community dynamic. Celebrate successes, troubleshoot injuries, and shift goals together as needed.

Final Thoughts

A training community—be it physical or virtual—represents more than a collection of individuals logging miles or vertical gain. It’s an evolving ecosystem of support, learning, and shared triumph. For mountaineers especially, every ounce of synergy can translate to fewer bail-outs, stronger summits, and memorable experiences that outlast any single climb.

“We accomplish some amazing feats, and we also all go through dark days in our training when things don’t seem to be going right. Let’s let this community strengthen us.”RMI Newsletter excerpt

So, whether you join the RMI Expeditions Strava Club, start a local hiking group, or simply coordinate treadmill sessions with a friend across the country, remember: you’re forging a network that can lift you up on days of doubt and celebrate with you on summit day. And in the often-isolating pursuit of mountaineering excellence, that kind of fellowship is worth its weight in gold.


References & Further Reading

  • Carron, A. V., & Eys, M. A. (2012). Group Dynamics in Sport (4th ed.). Fitness Information Technology.
  • Rees, T., & Freeman, P. (2009). Social support and performance in sports. The Sport Psychologist.
  • Smith, R. E., Smoll, F. L., & Cumming, S. P. (2019). Effects of a motivational climate intervention for coaches on young athletes’ sport performance anxiety. Journal of Sport & Exercise Psychology.
  • Vickers, J. N. (2007). Perception, Cognition, and Decision Training: The Quiet Eye in Action. Human Kinetics.
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<![CDATA[Mountain Efficiency Tips with RMI Guide Billy Haas]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/rmi-guide-billy-haas-efficiency-techniques-for-the-mountains/67dc88166c5d5d00012f85caThu, 20 Mar 2025 21:30:06 GMT

This article was originally written by former RMI Guide Billy Haas.

As climbers we make every effort to be as lazy as possible.  We seek to accomplish our goals and objectives with as little effort as necessary, and will cringe at the idea of making something harder than it needs to be.  This may seem contrary to the image of climbing as an extreme activity during which many people find their physical and mental limit. However, we often choose objectives that are at the peak of our abilities and thus we are required to maximize efficiency in our effort if we are to succeed. 

What I refer to tongue-in-cheek as laziness is in reality efficiency: efficiency, which can be found in every aspect of mountain existence.  Whether it be the way a rock climber positions their body on a route or an alpine climber packs for an expedition, success in the mountains involves high levels of efficiency.   There some methods of efficiency that don’t directly involve the physical act of climbing but rather things you can do prior to and while climbing that can give you a leg up. I refer to these as “putting money in the bank.”  I think that saying came from a high school teacher referring to gimme questions on an exam, but for me “money in the bank” means any techniques or tricks that can give you an efficiency advantage in the mountains. 

I would like to share some of the things I’ve learned from my time in the mountains with a specific focus on climbing Mt. Rainier.

Efficiency in Equipment

A great place to start improving your efficiency in the mountains begins with your equipment: what equipment are you using and does it work for you? Place a high priority on critical items such as boots and or packs, and worry less about items such as a fancy headlamp or spork. 

For me, a well-fit boot that is designed for the type of climbing I am doing is imperative. A good boot can mean the difference between a successful summit and a failed attempt; blisters and cold feet should never thwart a climber’s chance at the summit. In addition, find a climbing pack that carries weight well and fits you properly. Forget all the fancy features and pockets; a simple and minimalist pack that fits and carries weight well is what I look for. You might be able to get by with an old pack or a warm weather climbing boot, but why chance it? Having the right gear for the task makes for one less thing that could slow you down.

Maintaining your gear makes a big difference too.  I regularly spend a few hours taking care of small issues that have cropped up with my equipment to make sure that everything is going to work well when I need it to and not fail when it really counts.  I trust my life to my equipment and so do others. For example, I frequently re-waterproof my gloves and Gore-Tex jackets. A headlamp is no good if your batteries run out, and a boot will not work as well if the laces snap. Not every piece of equipment needs to be new, but it does need to work properly. Climbing is too much fun to be hampered by equipment issues!

Efficiency in Packing

With the right gear and everything dialed in, you need to pack it all up.  As guides, we seem to have a magical ability to pack 50 liters of gear into a 30 liter pack, but what may seem to be magic is really just some good common sense.  My favorite metaphor for packing is “brick and mortar.”  Some of your items are going to be bricks (eg: sleeping bag in stuff sack) and some are going to be mortar (eg: puffy jacket).  

When packing, also consider multi-use items.  A 1/2 liter nalgene makes for a great coffee mug and can also carry an extra 1/2 liter of water when you need it.  You want to maximize space and value in your pack. Crampons don’t need a crampon case, since quite often wrapping them in your gaiters works just fine and saves space and weight.  Putting some time and thought into a well-packed kit can often fit in a smaller pack. Smaller packs equal lighter packs, giving you a little more money in the bank.

Hydration and Nutrition

With packing complete, there are still a few more things you can do before a climb that will get you ahead.  For me this starts with my nutrition and hydration.  On Mt. Rainier, I’ve found that from the time I leave home in the morning to the time my team is hiking out of Paradise (approx. 1.5 hours), I can easily sip down a liter of water.  Don’t chug water, but slowly sip a liter in the morning and on the bus ride to Paradise. This will help make sure that you are hydrated for the beginning of your climb.  Pre-hydration, which can start as early as the night before, allows me to bring less water during a climb (less weight), and helps prevent dehydration. I can recover more quickly, and can focus on other aspects of the climb instead of staving off dehydration.

With regards to nutrition, my best suggestion is to learn your own body.  I know how much fuel my body needs at a high level of activity, which is less than some of my friends but definitely more than others. For two-day trips such as Mt. Rainer, I try to be as precise as I can with the amount of food I bring.  Start by factoring around 200 calories per break and then adjust from there to your specific needs.  In addition to that, bring foods you enjoy eating and can eat while exercising. I love pizza, but definitely wouldn’t want a slice in the middle of a climb. Remember; when we climb at altitude the effort is roughly similar to how our bodies feel during a slow jog.  Focus on foods that hold a lot of caloric value.  By bringing the right food and bring only the food you’ll need, you’ll save space and carry less weight.

Breaks and Timing

Lastly, be efficient with your time.  When taking a break, maximize your time resting and recovering. Get your self-care chores done early and quickly so that you get as much time off of your feet as possible. This applies to getting to camp also. Take care of business first so that you spend a maximum amount of time recovering later.  Use momentum to your advantage: we take short breaks so we do not lose our momentum, and when you roll into camp use that same momentum to set up and settle in before you are too tired to do the things you should have done.  This might be setting up camp or dealing with a pesky blister; the sooner you get it done the sooner you can rest.  Keep in mind that even if we feel great we still need to recover!

These are just a few theories on how to be more efficient while climbing.  Climbers are constantly in opposition with gravity and time, so a light pack will allow us to expend less energy, and quick recoveries will make us stronger for the next day.  Every bit of money in the bank you can save will give you a better chance of success on the mountain, and will be one less issue to worry about.  Learn from others, and learn what works best for you.  Take the time to find the right gear, pack well, eat and drink right, and maximize your rest because the climb is not getting any easier and the mountains are not getting any smaller! 

Billy Haas guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad for RMI Expeditions. When not traveling to mountains around the world to climb or ski, Billy guides backcountry skiing and teaches avalanche courses in Salt Lake City, UT.

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<![CDATA[My Go-To Workout for Mountaineering Fitness]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/my-go-to-workout/67dc85be6c5d5d00012f85a1Thu, 20 Mar 2025 21:19:59 GMT

There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible. On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes. 

On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door. My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises. 

Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals. 

Aerobic Base Building Phase

During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times. This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid. 

Intensity Phase

Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between. This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well. The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance. 

My Example Workout

I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:

💡
3 sets of 50 crunches
3 sets of 20 pushups
3 sets of 20 dips

I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team. 

  • 100 crunches (feet on the ground, curling my torso towards my knees, but not a full sit-up)
  • 50 sit-ups to the side (alternating sides)
  • 25 leg raises (some straight on, some to either side)
  • 100 more crunches to finish

Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling. 

Your Go-To Workout

While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals. If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time. Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time.

Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily. Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured. Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb! 

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<![CDATA[Balancing Training and Life: Finding Time for Mountain Goals]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/f/67dc850b6c5d5d00012f858cThu, 20 Mar 2025 21:15:07 GMT

Former RMI Guide Adam Knoff originally wrote this for the training blog a few years ago.

Today I was surprisingly asked a question that, as far as I can tell, is as old as human curiosity, parental affection and plain ol’ sibling rivalry. This may seem strange because I only have one child, and my somewhat unhinged three wingnut dogs can’t speak and honestly don’t care about the answer as long as they are fed and played with. As you may have guessed, the question so abruptly put on me this morning was: “daddy, who’s your favorite?” Harder to guess was, who asked it? 

Things started normally enough; I made breakfast for my kiddo before packing him up and carting him off to preschool. I fed my dogs and chickens, cleaned the kitchen, and prepared for a day of light recreating before my afternoon duties began. It was when I entered the garage, home to my all important man cave and location of all my beloved fly fishing and climbing gear that things took a bizarre turn. Standing in front of me (I kid you not!) side by side, with puppy dog eyes looking up, stood my 12’6” Echo spey rod and my carbon fiber, oh so beautiful, Cobra ice tools. These sorts of things don’t just happen so I double checked my reality button. Dreaming? No I don’t think so. I have been up for three hours, had my coffee, and still felt the throb in my left big toe where I slammed it into the chest at the side of my bed. Ok, I’m awake. Drugged? No, I quit taking hallucinogens in high school and my wife, I think, genuinely cares about me. Then what? My two favorite activities in life, swinging flies for big trout with my spey rod and ice climbing, which is now doable in Bozeman, Montana, have come to a head. With a few free hours, my fishing rod and ice tools came alive and wanted me to pick favorites. Sheeesh! What’s a guy to do? 

As time stood still, I began to reflect on the week long steelhead fishing trip I took just two weeks prior to the Grand Rhond, Clearwater, and Snake rivers. Ohhh, the joy of that trip made me quiver. It made me want to reach out, grab my spey rod child and declare my love for him. 28 inch ocean run rainbows on the swing, the thrill of the next hook up, not wearing a heavy pack; the reasons almost overwhelmed me. Yes, yes, you will always be my favorite!!! Then I saw my ice tools. Hyalite Canyon is in! I can’t wait for the thrill of running it out on newly formed thin ice over a stubby ice screw, waking up before the sun, and realizing this day was bound to hold everything but the predictable. Ohh, ice tools, you are my favorite, “let’s go climb something!” I think you understand my dilemma. 

Parenting has taught me much in the five years that I’ve been at it. Love, patience and compassion are always at the forefront of dealing with children. Frustrations always arise. Liam spills my wine on the new rug, my spey rod whips bullets at the back of my head leaving welts the size of cheese curds on my scalp, ice tools rip out unexpectedly and send waves of sudden panic through me that make me want to puke. All part of the landscape I guess. So how did I answer the question, “who is your favorite”? Here I leaned on the invaluable lessons gleaned from seven years of blissful marriage. I compromised.

That day I took the ice tools out for their first climb of the season. I packed them up with the rest of my climbing gear all the while psyched I had just promised my fishing rod we would get out tomorrow. It’s a difficult web we weave, balancing work and play. I honestly felt troubled that I had to recreate two days in a row, climbing then fishing, but then again parenting is also about sacrifice. 

As readers of the RMI Blog, most of you are probably cracking a smile but are also curious how this story is relevant to the mission of mountain climbing, training, and/or preparing for an upcoming goal. Here is how I connect the dots: Fishing for me is the yin to my climbing yang. It is a glorious mental escape which allows me to shelve my daily stresses and exist purely in the moment. Everyone needs this periodic meditation to reset and clear the mind. For many, exercise accomplishes the same release but regular exercise does not necessarily constitute “training”. The expectations I put on myself when climbing on my own are very high and the specific training schedule I follow can at times be demanding, painful, and sometimes unpleasant. 

Here is where we tie in sacrifice. Everyone’s life is managed by time. Somewhere on that big round clock is time you can utilize for yourself. If you have a goal of climbing a mountain, running a marathon, or bench pressing a Ford truck, you need to prioritize and then commit! Finding enjoyment and purpose in life comes when these commitments are made. Being a husband and father keep me grounded. Being a passionate climber and guide keep me psyched and motivated, and the hunt for big fish calms me down. In the big picture I think I have found some balance. Remember it takes the black and the white, the yin and the yang, to complete the circle. The web you weave and balance you seek are your own, but seek it with conviction and purpose and you will be just fine.

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<![CDATA[Mt. Rainier Training: A Climber’s Success Story]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/a-successful-climbers-perspective-on-training-for-mt-rainier/67dc83ea6c5d5d00012f8577Thu, 20 Mar 2025 21:12:42 GMT

The following article is written by author and former RMI client, Ady Peterson. 

I summited Mt. Rainier a few years ago with RMI. I won’t lie to you: it is to date the HARDEST physical challenge I’ve ever taken on (even as a collegiate athlete, and a yoga, barre, and spin instructor). But, I can also tell you, it was COMPLETELY worth it. And I can tell you what got me to the top: the right preparation. 

First of all: STAIRS, stairs, and more stairs. Whether you find them at a local stadium, in your apartment building, or even the stair climber at the gym, stairs are a must (I lived in Seattle when I summited, but I’m in Texas now. I know that you might have to get creative depending on where). Put some weight in your pack (immediately) and just start climbing. You can increase the weight in your pack as you get stronger. 

One thing that I wish I had known as I trained on all those stairs is the “Rest Step”. The Rest Step is exactly what it sounds like: you take a step, rest, take another step, rest. Over and over at a quick tempo-- rest, step, rest step, rest, step. If you’re not familiar, do a quick search on YouTube for “Rest Step Climb” for a visual. With just a little practice, you’ll have the Rest Step down—it’s a vital technique for conserving energy, and that’s what an endurance climb is really all about. Which leads me to my next training tip: YOGA. 

Yoga helped me develop a greater awareness of my breath and lung capacity. When the air gets thin 14,000 feet up and you feel like your lungs are collapsing, you’ll be grateful for your practice breathing deeply and evenly. I was doing yoga about 3 times a week leading up to my climb, and I had very little trouble with altitude. Speaking of altitude—that’s what breaks new climbers down the most. It shows up as shortness of breath (see above), but also as fatigue and nausea.

For these last two, help yourself: pack REAL FOOD—ideally food that you LOVE, so that you’ll be willing to eat, even when you don’t want to (trust me, at times you WON’T want to). All those goop packs you can get at REI are great, but they’re not meant for 2-4 day adventures. I’m gluten-free and vegan, so I packed dried fruit, trail mix, LARA bars (or homemade date balls! My favorite!), and pre-made quinoa. I also had some rice tortillas. Remember, this is mountain climbing, not a walk in the park—calories are your friends: get a good balance of sugar, carbs, and protein, however works for you. I’ve done quite a bit of hiking, so I had an idea of what go-to foods I’d want on the climb. If you don’t, I’d recommend taking some test-foods out with you on a few hikes or stair workouts, so you can see how your body reacts to certain foods or proportions in the middle of long workouts. 

Stairs, Rest-stepping, breathing, and food prep. If you’ve been preparing with marathon runs and Olympic weightlifting, these training methods might sound like small things. But then…“It’s not the mountain ahead that wears you down, it’s the pebble in your shoe.” – Muhammad Ali 


Hi! I'm Adrianne. I've been an athlete my whole life, starting as a dancer at age seven. Eventually, I danced at the Olympics in Sydney 2000, but after juggling dance and soccer for years, I eventually chose to focus on soccer. Soccer got me a college scholarship, and I played for four years as I earned my degree. After college, I desperately sought to maintain my sports brain (and body) and soon I discovered yoga. Before I knew it, I'd completed three yoga teacher trainings--I've been teaching yoga since 2010! My love for teaching grew exponentially during this time, so I sought other ways to grow as an instructor. That's how I discovered FlyBarre--on the first class, I was HOOKED! I then began teaching Indoor Cycling at Flywheel in Austin and cannot imagine my life without a coaching aspect to it. I summited Mt. Rainier in the midst of all of this and can honestly say it was the hardest thing I've ever done and my 3rd most accomplished (after the Olympics and soccer scholarship). I love the outdoors, and anything to keep me out there is always at the forefront of my mind. I would love to help you on your journey to summit ANY mountain you have your sights on. You can follow me on Instagram @thirtyish_ and check out my blog, thirty-ish.com. 

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<![CDATA[Nutrition Tips for Climbing McKinley Successfully]]>https://rmi-knowledge-hub.ghost.io/nutrition-for-denali/67d0acc83b07820001eae790Tue, 11 Mar 2025 21:41:14 GMT

This guide will help you prepare your meals, focusing on breakfast, lunch, and dinner, ensuring you have a balanced diet to maintain your strength and morale throughout the expedition.

Eating at Altitude

Eating at high altitude can be challenging due to reduced appetite and the physical demands of climbing. It’s essential to maintain a regular eating schedule and consume enough calories to sustain your energy levels. Opt for high-calorie, nutrient-dense foods that are easy to digest and enjoy. Staying hydrated is equally important, so drink plenty of fluids, including water and hot drinks.

Meals

Breakfast

A hearty breakfast is essential to start your day on the mountain. Breakfast should provide a mix of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats to fuel your morning climb. Here are some ideal breakfast options to consider:

Instant Oatmeal or Grits: Quick to prepare, providing a warm, comforting start to your day.
Cold Cereal (Granola): Easy to eat, even in cold weather, and offers a good mix of carbohydrates and fiber.
Bagels with Cream Cheese: A substantial option that offers carbs and fats, providing lasting energy.
Bacon and Eggs: If you have the means to cook them, they provide excellent protein and fats.
Breakfast Bars: Convenient and packed with energy, ideal for quick mornings.
Hot Drinks (Tea, Coffee, Hot Cocoa): Essential for warmth and comfort, helping to keep you hydrated and warm.

Lunch and Snacks

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day to maintain energy levels. These snacks should be easy to consume without preparation or hot water. The key is to bring a variety of foods that you genuinely enjoy, stimulating your palate and encouraging consistent eating, which is vital at high altitudes where appetite can diminish.

Recommended Mountain Lunch Items:

  • Bagels, tortillas, and crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits)
  • Hummus, Pringles, corn nuts
  • Smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflower seeds, raisins)
  • Smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots)
  • Salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar)
  • Jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies
  • Energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear)
  • Personal drink mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, instant coffee, hot cider)

Sample Lunch Packing List

  • Bagels, tortillas, and crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits)
  • Hummus, Pringles, corn nuts
  • Smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&Ms, sunflower seeds, raisins)
  • Smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots)
  • Salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar)
  • Jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies
  • Energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear)
  • Personal drink mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, instant coffee, hot cider)
  • 2 packages of crackers (Wheat Thins & Triscuits)
  • 2 cans of potato chips (Pringles)
  • 2+ lbs GORP mix
  • 1 box of Ginger Snaps
  • 1 box of graham crackers
  • 1 container of hummus
  • 1 bag of carrots
  • 1 package of dried mangos
  • 1 small container of sweet mustard
  • Gatorade mix, travel-size Crystal Light packets, instant coffee
  • 25 mixed candies (lifesavers, jolly ranchers, gummy worms, sweet tarts, toffee, mints)

Dinner

Dinners on McKinley are designed to be hearty and satisfying, helping you recover from the day’s exertions and prepare for the next day. The menu typically includes fresh food, retort entrees, freeze-dried meals, and packaged items, ensuring variety and adequate nutrition.

Fresh Food: Vegetables, tortillas, and cheese provide a break from dehydrated meals and offer essential nutrients.
Retort Entrees: Fully cooked meals that can be heated in hot water, offering a convenient and tasty option.
Freeze-Dried Entrees: Brands like Mountain House or Alpine Air provide lightweight, calorie-dense meals that are easy to prepare.
Packaged Main Course Items: Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, and macaroni and cheese are easy to cook and comforting.
Hot Drinks and Desserts: Various teas, cocoa, and simple desserts provide a satisfying end to your meal and help keep you warm.

Preparing for Your Expedition

Where to Buy Groceries

Plan ahead and purchase the bulk of your food before arriving in Alaska. Specialty items and your favorite snacks might not be available in local stores, so bringing them with you is best. Some perishable items can be bought en route to Talkeetna, but ensure you have everything you need to avoid last-minute shopping stress.

How to Divvy Up and Pack Food

Organize your food into daily rations, clearly labeling each package. Use durable, waterproof containers and bags to protect your food from the elements. Vacuum-sealed bags are excellent for keeping food fresh and compact. Pack heavier items at the bottom of your backpack and distribute the weight evenly to maintain balance. Pre-packaged portions help streamline meal preparation on the mountain, allowing you to focus on the climb and recovery.

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