At 64 years old, Brent Okita has done something no one else ever has: he’s stood on the summit of Mount Rainier for the 600th time. That new world record alone is staggering. But it doesn’t tell the whole story, not even close.
Brent has been guiding with RMI Expeditions since 1986. That’s nearly four decades of early alpine starts, whiteout navigation, bluebird summits, and shoulder-season storms. It’s thousands of clients coached up the Muir Snowfield, hundreds of rope teams safely guided down Disappointment Cleaver, and an untold number of wise decisions that kept people safe, calm, and moving upward.
He’s summited Rainier more than anyone in history. When asked how he feels on the summit, Brent said:
“It feels great, we have perfect weather up here and a perfect group and I couldn’t be happier.”
Brent’s reputation in the guiding world goes far beyond Rainier. He summited Everest in 1991 via the North Ridge (the same line climbed by Mallory and Irvine in 1924) and returned in 2001 as part of the famed Mallory-Irvine Search Expedition. He has guided 23 consecutive successful McKinley expeditions in Denali National Park, led climbs on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and mountains around the world. But Mount Rainier has always been home base.
There’s something fitting about that. Rainier isn’t just a proving ground for new alpinists; it’s a teacher. It rewards patience, consistency, and care. Brent has made a life of listening to that mountain.
He’s also helped shape what it means to be an RMI guide. As a Senior Guide and longtime Supervisor, Brent has mentored generations of young guides, passing down not just rope systems and crampon techniques, but the values that define our work: humility, precision, compassion, and perseverance.
When asked if he has any advice for future guides, Brent said:
"Guides, pay attention to what's happening out there... it's the details that really matter. I think that's why I've had such a successful life; I pay attention to the details."
Ask any guide who’s worked a climb with Brent, and you’ll hear the same thing: he leads by example. Quietly. Steadily. With the kind of grace that’s earned, not taught.
Climbing Rainier 600 times means spending close to two years of your life above 10,000 feet. It means learning every subtle shift in the glacier’s surface. It means knowing how the sun hits the Cleaver in late June and where to find shelter in a whiteout at 13,000 feet. But most of all, it means showing up, day after day, year after year, with care, professionalism, and joy.
Back in 2016, when Brent completed his 500th summit of Rainier, someone asked him if retirement was on the horizon. His answer? “I’ll keep guiding for the foreseeable future.” This time, when asked what's next, Brent said:
"More climbing, more Mount Rainier, it's what I do!"
Over hundreds of climbs, Brent has built more than a record; he’s built relationships. For many clients, their time with Brent on the mountain is transformative, not just because of the summit, but because of who was leading the way.
Dan Kemp recalls a moment when Brent made the tough call to turn back due to unsafe conditions. "I know we could have made it to the top," he said, "but Brent didn’t like how unsafe the second route was. I admire that." That trust in his judgment is a consistent theme across client stories.
Mark Tellez described him as "everything you would hope for in a mountain guide," adding, "He had our trust on the mountain. He is understanding but also firm when required to keep folks moving and things safe."
For James Huggins, the impact was deeply personal. "There was just something about him that made me feel like this was going to work out," he wrote. "His calm, straightforward and subtle humor resonated with me... Having him embrace me at the crater was a moment I’ll never forget."
These are the proof that Brent (and all our guides) impact goes far beyond statistics. He builds confidence, fosters camaraderie, and turns big mountain experiences into lifelong memories.
For all of us at RMI, Brent’s 600th summit isn’t just a personal achievement; it’s a moment of reflection and gratitude. It reminds us what’s possible when passion meets purpose. When experience is paired with humility. When a lifetime of small, thoughtful decisions adds up to something extraordinary.
We’re proud to call Brent a colleague, a mentor, and a friend. And we’re honored to celebrate this milestone with the broader mountaineering community. Because while summits may be counted one at a time, legacies are built over seasons, years, and relationships forged on the rope.
Congratulations, Brent. And thank you for kicking the steps, the teaching, and the example you’ve set for all of us.
]]>Mt. McKinley vs. Denali
At RMI Expeditions, our commitment is to the mountains, the people who climb them, and the cultures that surround them.
A Mountain Known by Many Names
Long before maps or government proclamations, North America's tallest peak was called by the names of the Indigenous peoples who have lived in and around it for thousands of years. Among the Koyukon Athabaskan people, the mountain is "Denali," meaning "The High One." The Dena'ina of the Susitna River Valley call it "Dghelay Ka’a" - "The Big Mountain."
During Alaska’s Russian period, it was known as "Bolshaya Gora," Russian for "Big Mountain."
In 1896, an American prospector named William Dickey gave the peak a new name: "Mount McKinley," after then-presidential candidate William McKinley. Dickey’s choice wasn’t neutral - it was politically motivated, a symbolic nod to the gold standard during a heated national debate. The name was cemented federally in 1917 and persisted for over a century, despite local resistance and Indigenous advocacy.
In 1975, the Alaska State Legislature formally requested the mountain be renamed Denali. That request was blocked in Congress by representatives from McKinley’s home state of Ohio for decades. It wasn’t until 2015 that then-Secretary of the Interior, Sally Jewell, used her authority to officially change the name to Denali at the federal level.
For more information on the naming history, please see RMI’s Denali Cultural Landscape.
May 6, 1794 - The historical first European sighting of Denali by George Vancouver when he was surveying the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet and mentioned "distant stupendous mountains" in his journal. However, he uncharacteristically left the mountain unnamed. Vancouver was also the explorer who first named Mt. Rainier.
1800s - During the Russian ownership of Alaska (pre-1867), the common name for the mountain was Bolshaya Gora ("big mountain" in Russian).
1889 - The first English name applied to the peak was Densmore's Mountain or Densmore's Peak, for the gold prospector Frank Densmore who had fervently praised the mountain's majesty; however, the name persevered only locally and informally.
1893 - The mountain is first named on a map by Ferdinand von Wrangel with the name "Tenada."
1896 - The mountain was first designated "Mt. McKinley" by Seattleite William A. Dickey who led a gold prospecting dig in the sands of the Susitna River in June 1896. The name Mt. McKinley was inspired by William McKinley of Ohio who had been nominated for the Presidency and the fact that it was the first news they received when they left the wilderness. By most accounts, the naming was politically driven; Dickey had met many silver miners who zealously promoted Democratic presidential candidate William Jennings Bryan's ideal of a silver standard, inspiring him to retaliate by naming the mountain after a strong proponent of the gold standard. The naming was further reinforced after McKinley's assassination that led to sentiment favoring commemoration of his memory.
February 26, 1917 - President Woodrow Wilson signed the park bill that created the beginnings of McKinley National Park and officially named the great mountain Mt. McKinley.
1975 - The Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name of the mountain to Denali, and, at Governor Jay Hammond's behest, the Alaska Legislature officially requested that the United States Board on Geographic Names (BGN), the federal governmental body responsible for naming geographic features in the United States, change the name of the mountain from "Mount McKinley" to "Mount Denali." Ohio congressman Ralph Regula (whose district included Canton, where McKinley spent much of his life) opposed action by the U.S. Board and was able to prevent it.
1977 - With Secretary Morton no longer at the helm of the Department of the Interior, the Board again prepared to consider the name change, but Regula gathered signatures from every member of the Ohio congressional delegation against renaming Mt. McKinley, and no ruling was made.
December 2, 1980 - With President Jimmy Carter's signing into law of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA), McKinley National Park was incorporated into a larger protected area named Denali National Park and Preserve. Naming the new, larger park Denali, while retaining the name Mt. McKinley for the actual mountain was thought to be a compromise by many "Mt. McKinley" partisans. However, "Denali" advocates rejected the position arguing the naming created confusion.
1981 - Regula used a procedural maneuver to prevent any change to the Mt. McKinley name. Under U.S. Board on Geographic Names policy, the Board cannot consider any name-change proposal if congressional legislation relating to that name is pending. Thus Regula began a biennial legislative tradition of either introducing language into Interior Department appropriation bills, or introducing a stand-alone bill that directed that the name of Mt. McKinley should not be changed. This effectively killed the Denali name-change proposal pending with the Board.
2009 - The retirement of Regula reinvigorated interest in renaming the mountain. Despite efforts in Alaska, Ohio Representatives Betty Sutton and Tim Ryan assumed Regula's role as congressional guardians of the Mt. McKinley name.
January 2015 – A bill submitted by Alaska Senator Lisa Murkowski re-proposed renaming North America's highest peak as Denali.
August 30, 2015 – Sally Jewell announced that the mountain would be renamed Denali, under authority of federal law which permits her as Secretary of the Interior to name geographic features if the Board of Geographic Names does not act within a "reasonable" period of time.
January 2025 - In December 2024, President-elect Donald Trump stated that he planned to revert the mountain's federal name to Mount McKinley during his second term. Trump's proposal was met with criticism from many prominent Alaskans. Upon his inauguration in January 2025, Trump signed executive order Restoring Names That Honor American Greatness which changed the mountain's official federal name back to Mount McKinley.
What’s Changed, and Why We’re Using “Mount McKinley”
In January 2025, the current administration signed an executive order titled Restoring Names That Honor American Greatness. This action reversed the 2015 federal decision, reinstating the name Mount McKinley as the official federal name of the mountain. The surrounding area remains Denali National Park and Preserve.
We received a formal directive in February 2025, from the National Park Service stating that all references to the mountain must now read "Mount McKinley" in promotional materials, maps, and communications.
As an official concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve, RMI Expeditions is bound by contract to follow all federal naming guidelines, including those laid out by the U.S. Board on Geographic Names and the Department of the Interior.
For us, this is a matter of legal compliance. To continue offering safe, guided expeditions to this incredible peak, we abide by the regulations that govern our concession.
We will continue climbing with purpose, honoring the legacy of Denali National Park and Preserve and its people while complying with the regulations that allow us to share this incredible peak with others.
- The RMI Team
]]>In 2025, Seth Burn's RMI Expeditions McKinley expedition team decided to do something little different with their daily Expedition Dispatches. Instead of the normal news-bulletin updates, we got some very creative dispatches in the forms of bullets, fantasy scenarios, musings, and more. This blog captures some of their best work, and shows how climbers fill their days on the highest peak in North America.
Although they didn't make the summit due to weather, this team showed us the definition of "it's the journey, not the destination." If you're looking for insight into what it's like on "The Great One", this should give you a decent idea. The most impressive part? All this was sent via satellite communication devices, which aren't known for facilitating great wordplay.
Friday, May 16, 2025
We started our day with breakfast at latitude 62 and ended our day with dinner at latitude 62. Can anyone guess where our day will start tomorrow?!
We spent the morning talking about the finer points of Denali climbing while learning and practicing some new skills. In the afternoon, our pilots at K2 along with the Denali base camp manager saw a break in the weather. Giddy with excitement, we loaded up the plane with all of our bags, put on our mountain clothes, and patiently waited for our chance for take off. Unfortunately, mountain weather can be a fickle beast and the mountain wasn't ready to let us in just yet. We became mesmerized by some classic Denali climbing films and fantasized about when we would soon be in those very spots.
Waiting is inevitable in the mountains, but always hard, especially at the beginning of a trip. I could not be more proud of our team's attitude. They are taking everything in stride and with a smile. We are enjoying constant laughs, telling stories, and building camaraderie that will enable us to run when our feet hit the ground. We will be ready to fly when our time comes. Hopefully that time is tomorrow morning!
RMI Guides Jackson, Ray, Seth and Team
Photos by expedition member Will Sutila
May 20, 2025
Elevation: 7,800'
Well, we woke up this morning to much better weather. Headed over to the cook tent for a quick bowl or two of Cinnamon Toast Crunch and coffee. Breakfast of champions! We got our sleds and packs ready to set off for our first cache of the expedition. Everybody was anxious to get going after a great rest day. Many other teams had the same idea, and we certainly didn’t mind a few of them in front of us breaking trail after we got about a foot of snow at camp in the last 24hrs. All three teams were moving great up the mountain led by our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray. They rock! We had three breaks on the way up and as we moved up the mountain, clouds and a wisp of wind and snow started to move in. We reached 10,200' and cached our gear and food. Super nice being able to walk downhill with a light pack and no sled! We made our way quickly downhill passing teams as we did on the way up. We are now snug back at our lower camp waiting for what we know will be an amazing dinner of jambalaya. Being originally from Louisiana and all…no pressure on Chef Ray. Ha!
Our team is really firing on all cylinders and feeling good. Happy for that! Hydrating, fixing feet and getting some rest are on the agenda after dinner. Oh, and the skies parted on the way back a bit giving us spectacular views when we arrived back at camp, so grateful to be in this moment.
RMI Climber Shannon and Team
May 21, 2025
Elevation: 11,000'
Dear Baby Winter,
Just like in the book that we read before coming out here, “Oh the Places, You’ll Go,” today our group walked through an area that I can’t wait to tell you all about. We started this morning not entirely sure if we were going to continue up today due to the weather being a little iffy but Seth made the call for us to venture out with the goal of reaching 11,000' Camp. The walk up was incredibly challenging, the combination of wind and snow with weighted packs and sleds, made this climb like nothing I’ve ever done. The weather created what seemed to be a complete white out, like walking through a cloud. With only being able to differentiate by looking around at my fellow climbers. Thinking of you and your mother pushed me forward and most importantly our excellent guides kept us safe while out there. Each day that I’m here, Denali continues to teach me something that I hope to one day hand down to you and that’s that sometimes the most rewarding moments in life, are the ones that you’ve earned through working for them. Now it’s time for a hot meal, we’re having ramen tonight, cant wait! I miss you more than words will allow.
Love Dad (Juan)
May 23, 2025
Elevation: 11,200'
The hottest new restaurant in Alaska is Maureen’s, currently located at the 11K camp on Denali. Started by a trio of up-and-coming chefs (Jackson, Ray, and Seth), who also happen to moonlight as mountain guides, Maureen’s serves up delicious Tex-Mex fare with Asian and Creole inspirations, reflective of the chefs’ diverse backgrounds. “Corn is pretty much my greatest inspiration; I can turn a tortilla into just about anything,” says Chef Jackson, citing his Iowan roots. The pop-up restaurant is small, seating 9 and squatting 1.
On a busy night of service, guests can hear Chef “Sweet Baby” Ray rapping to OutKast with an inexplicably thick Eastern European accent while whipping up a jambalaya in the open kitchen. The portions are generous, much appreciated on big efforts such as caching heavy packs of gear up to 13K ft.
When not working the breakfast shift, Chef Seth runs front of house, chatting up the regulars and offering sweet words of affirmation, which they desperately need to wake up each morning. There is relatively little to complain about, except maybe the limited beverage list (despite the chefs’ weird insistence on tasting the glacial terroir — it’s just hot water), the overpowering red polyester decor (reportedly Maureen’s favorite color), and the ever-present undertones of body odor. Dress code is casual, although insulated down is highly recommended. Gluten-free options are available upon request.
– Jason
May 24, 2025
Elevation: 14, 200'
Happy Friday Everyone!
To our family and friends back at home, I’m excited to share that we have made it to Camp 3—14,200’—a huge milestone in our journey! This is where we will call home for the next week or so while we acclimatize and hit the fixed lines around 17,000’ to prepare for summit attempts.
Today we woke up to a cool, crisp, bluebird sky, and that meant one thing: we were packing up Camp 2 and headed to Camp 3. After a quick breakfast, we packed up our camp, stuffed our packs to the breaking point, and loaded a couple of sleds with all our gear and food.
It was time to trade in our snowshoes and put on our crampons. That’s right—it was time to go climbing, finally! As we headed out with an ice axe in one hand and a trekking pole in the other, we stared up at Motorcycle Hill. It was time to go to work.
We had a 35-degree pitch with roughly 1,000’ of gain. From there, we made our way to Squirrel Hill—another 30-degree pitch—then up to the Polo Fields, where we finally got a bit of flatter terrain. The views are like no other and bring grace to the grind.
Then it was up and around Windy Corner, which didn’t disappoint, greeting us with some lovely wind :). We continued to embrace the day as we made our last push into Camp 3. We are home! Our biggest push in one day with 3,000’ of vertical gain.
As I sit here and write this—and I know the team feels the same—with a sunburnt face, a back that feels like it carried an elephant, and feet that feel like they ran an ultramarathon, I couldn’t be more grateful and proud of this team and all we’ve accomplished over the past six days. Getting to Camp 3 took everything we’ve got—congrats, team!
To our guides: every day you continue to inspire us, nail the weather reports, and keep us moving upward. Thank you for all your efforts!
That’s all for now—time for dinner (bacon mac and cheese!) and some much-needed rest days. Onward and upward this team goes! Keep sending the positive vibes and prayers our way—they’re working!
- Will
Photos by expedition member Will Sutila
May 26, 2025
Elevation: 14,000'
We continue to hang at 14,000' Camp, acclimatizing, resting, going on small walks to stretch our achy legs, and working on the skills that we will need to ascend the higher reaches of the mountain. After a leisurely morning, our guides had us practice using our ascenders, clipping in and out of anchors, clipping in and out of anchors, and descending the fixed lines using the trusty arm wrap. We repeated until Seth was confident that we could perform these drills with cold hands.
As the pace of life has slowed during this phase of the expedition and we have many (many) hours in the tent with our own thoughts, I’ve curated my top 5 life hacks from the top of North America:
1. Say goodbye to dish detergent and sponge - fresh powdery snow makes a great all-natural scrub for cleaning your single bowl, mug, and spork. Just step outside, grab a handful of nature’s Dawn, and get to work! Please be sure you select a patch of snow that is indeed white.
2. Alternatively, forget the dish washing routine altogether and embrace the complex layerings of flavor that can only be experienced when you brew tea in the same mug as last night’s corn soup, or slurp Cinnamon Toast Crunch with undertones of Madras Lentils.
3. Worried that your sticky-fingers roommate will take your last slice of leftover pizza, or a sneaky coworker will swipe your oat milk creamer AGAIN? Here’s what you gotta do: wrap your precious perishables in a trash bag and bury it deep in the snow! Your goodies will stay cold and fresh, and hidden from greedy scavengers. Just budget a good 20 minutes to dig it up when you need it.
4. Too lazy to take dry clean only items in for a proper cleaning? Just set dingy laundry like sleeping bags and boot liners out in the sun to sanitize. At least, we think it’s working - our noses have become desensitized to our collective eau de parfum naturel.
5. Lastly, to all my nocturnal urinators: A pee bottle is the greatest luxury you can add to your life. Not only does the pee bottle save you a trip outside the tent in the middle of a cold night, but you can then tuck it in your sleeping bag as a sort of cozy hot water bottle. Just make sure it has a spill-proof lid.
In all seriousness, we love and miss you all back home! Sending so much love to ma and pa in Vancouver, David in NYC, Grammie and Granddad and family in Nova Scotia, all the fam in Toronto and Boston, and our supportive friends in Seattle!
A special shout out to our youngest reader, Gene, burgeoning outdoorsperson and super rad human! Say hi to your mom for me!
Love,
RMI Climber Grace
May 27, 2025
Elevation: 14,000'
Day 10 of eating our way across Denali brought to you by RMIGuides.com…as we all lay in our tents in the frigid cold morning air, waiting with bated breath for the verdict go/no go for the day, are we going for a stroll up to 17,000' Camp or will we chill at camp for another day waiting for our perfect window and eating as many snacks as humanly possible? The more important thing we were all waiting to hear is “breakfast in 5”. Because snacks are definitely not enough calories obviously for this group. These words drive us all to struggle out of our cozy sleeping bags, and put on our puffy pants and jackets, hats and boots as quickly as possible to see what delicious 5 star Yelp meal awaits us to start our day…this morning, they had me at “bacon”. This word is special to me as I live with the most incredible vegetarian on the planet, my spouse Dr. Lauralynn Jansen, who is an amazing cook and human being, but there is no way in hell she is ever cooking bacon in our kitchen. Gotta get it when I can! Love ya babe! We stagger out of our tents making our way to the warm cook tent like we haven’t eaten in days and get settled shoulder to shoulder and all check in on each other and on our sleep for that night, sipping a hot drink as we wait for our gourmet bagels and BACON!!
Jason apparently got a full 7 hours and was bragging just a bit. Said he was amped to get the acclimatization hike and summit attempt all knocked out today and call it good. He may need to lay off the moxy a bit or the rest of us need to get on board and step up our game! I think the rest of us were not necessarily on the same page….as far as my sleep, the outstanding loaner inflatable mat allowed me about a good solid 15 minutes of comfort as it proceeded to slide right out from under me like it was greased up with Crisco prior to me using it. I relished that precious 15 minutes however. I’ll take the short stints of comfort when I can get it.
After breakfast we decided to take a walk around the camp to stretch out the legs and do some meet and greet with other climbers which ended up being bartering for toilet paper and kielbasas (shocker) as we certainly need to make sure we do not run out of food or TP at this stage of the game. That kielbasa could potentially save our lives for sure in the long run and you know, that TP speaks for itself. We also had a nice visit with the Park Rangers and we made our way back to camp to some yoga, stretching, pushups, 7-min abs, and some squats to get the blood pumping. Oh how I miss going for a run, but this will do for now as the energy expenditure and effort is about to go up exponentially in the next few days much to our chagrin. Welcome to the reality of why we are here.
Some home renovations also took place today for our three musketeers tent that needed some leveling work for sure. Team effort, supervised by Task Master Juan (much less critical than previous Project Manager Ethan for sure) provided a much needed leveling upgrade to our snow flooring which will hopefully keep me from unintentionally violating tent space as I roll off my mat. We were also super pumped to see our RMI Team come in from their summit that gave us hope for our team and the effort it will take to reach the top.
Meanwhile, the cook tent was transformed into Casino Royale with Ocean’s 15 blowing up (minus Brad Pitt and George Clooney- sorry guys) as Farkle die were flying and high stakes betting was taking place for Snickers, gorp, sausage, Oreos and other high value items that we certainly don’t have enough of already. If memory serves me correctly, Senior Juan put the smackdown on the other players and holds bragging rights until the next game fired up. In addition, Christmas came early as Seth showed up later in the day with an additional inflatable mat for us to use so we will be living large in Musketeer Central. A special thanks to Grace for burning the incense as it’s getting a bit ripe in these parts let’s be honest and it was lovely to the smell…We have really enjoyed this down time to enjoy each other’s company and continue to rest, hydrate and of course eat… speaking of eating, we hear the hot water brewing as our Master Chef Seth once again prepare the evening meal of Jambalaya and Oreo Cheesecake deliciousness. Shut the front door! Thank you again to our fearless leaders Seth, Jackson and Ray. Especially for taking care of my feet. I continue to embrace and appreciate each and every moment of this journey and look forward to what tomorrow brings to this team.
Thanks for all of your support! It is greatly appreciated!
-RMI Climber Shannon
Photos by expedition member Ethan Pickett
May 28, 2025
Elevation: 14,000'
Once upon a time in a land far far away,
7 Denali climbers were sleeping dreaming of the next day.
Before sun had risen they awoke to a rattle,
loud stoves were a burning, breakfast before the next battle.
They packed and readied getting out of warm beds,
The climbers excited for the next challenge ahead.
Folks started with cold toes up the steep mountain side,
But quickly warmed as legs churned and turned their tide.
Up the fixed lines to the climbers next cache,
They reached the spot, oh boy what a dash?!
Back down they went making truly great time.
Home for ramen dinner while the sun did still shine.
Now back in their tents, the days sure do fly by,
Dreams of the summit with hopes set sky high!
Farewell for now as guides need sleep too,
The team will check back tomorrow with updates for you!
RMI Guide Jackson Breen
May 30, 2025
Elevation: 14,200'
The rest day at 14K. Waiting on the weather.
99% of people come to Denali with the sole aspiration of reaching the summit. Don’t be like these folks, they are basic and miss out While tent-bound and waiting for our weather window (hopefully Saturday or Sunday by the way, put it on your calendars), we’ve been busy with:
Once we complete all these side quests, I think we unlock a free ride to the top.
- RMI Climber Jason
May 31, 2025
Elevation: 14,200'
Our guides warned us that days at 14,000 feet could be among the hardest. Not because of the altitude, the vertical climbs, or the heavy loads—but because of the waiting.
Today, we hoped for a weather window to move to 17, the penultimate step in our push for the summit. Instead, we were sequestered in camp by wind and snow. Nerves and hopes for tomorrow run high. These are the days that can wear on you—but I am fortunate to be part of an intrepid, resolved, and collegial team.
I am inspired by you, my fellow climbers—by your humor and strength, your spirit of adventure and fierce determination, your perseverance and positivity. We came together by different paths, but we now share a common journey. When I falter, you wait. When you ascend, I cheer. We move together, always supporting, never judging.
I am equally emboldened by our guides—by their friendliness, focus, and vision. They work while we rest. They carry the heavier loads. Though their frustration with our poor packing skills and questionable foot care is sometimes apparent, their patience, calm, and capability give me confidence—not in the outcome, which even they cannot promise, but in the possibility. There are a thousand reasons—weather, injury, error—that any one of us might not summit. But these three remarkable people are the reason we can try.
I don’t know what the next few days hold. But I know this: the ten of us will face what comes together, as we have faced everything so far—one expedition, one team, one rope.
– David and team
June 2, 2025
Elevation: 14,200'
We woke up at 17 Camp to large plumes of snow sublimating off Denali Pass. We slow rolled putting on every layer of clothing we had waiting for water to boil, hoping the wind would subside by the time breakfast was ready. To no avail. By the time we were packed and headed downhill the wind had reached our front door and we were blown down the West Buttress back to 14 Camp with our tails between our legs. Reuniting with friends back at camp and worsening weather reassured us that we had made the right decision.
We have gained a lot over the last couple of weeks; new friendships, good conversations, silly jokes, and some peace from the fast pace of modern life. Though reaching the summit isn’t out of the cards yet for our team, we are beyond satisfied with what the mountain has given us so far. Climbing brings people to their best and their worst, it can cause great joy and great fear. It is a very vulnerable and intimate relationship.
In this world of rat races and anonymous faces it is refreshing to be with good people in a beautiful place. Thank you Mt. McKinley for brining us all together.
Peace, love, gratitude--
RMI Guide Ray Holt
June 4, 2025
Elevation: 7,800'
We left 14 today. Wind and snow. made it to the base of ski hill. Set up camp, had dinner. Hope to continue to the airstrip tomorrow!
Haikus of a Denali Descent
Downhill we trotted
To the airstrip we plotted
Stopped short at ski hill
Wind blowing so far
Windy corner not that hard
Our team is so strong
Talkeetna awaits
Hopes of flying tomorrow
One more stretch to go
- by RMI Guide Jackson Breen
June 5, 2025
Elevation: 7,300'
When we think of Sisyphus, we think of a man cursed to repeat the same arduous task each day with no end in sight. Each day he must think this is it - he has rolled this massive boulder to the top of the mountain, and surely his quest must be complete, right? Yet he awakes each day to the boulder back at the foot of the mountain, only to start again. How tragic! How crushing!
Or is it? In his essay, “The Myth of Sisyphus”, Albert Camus posits that perhaps Sisyphus is not doomed to a life of despair, but is actually a deeply satisfied individual. (Mind you, I have never read this essay and have only a surface-level knowledge of French existential literature let alone Greek mythology, so take this with a Denali sized grain of salt). But consider: this man wakes up each day with a clear task. It’s tough work rolling that boulder but he has some sweet views along the way. Every day he completes his task and must feel satisfied with a day of hard work. He goes to sleep feeling accomplished each night. How many of us can say that we have a clear task each day with no other distractions, a sense of satisfaction at the end of the day, and the delicious feeling of going to bed bone-tired which always produces the best sleep?
Our team made it back to Kahiltna Base Camp today, the last leg of an epic three week expedition. We now wait for skies to clear enough for a flight back to Talkeetna. Although the mountain’s infamous weather system ultimately prevented our team from making a summit bid, we are deeply satisfied with the gifts that The Great One has provided us. We were awed by the austere beauty of the Kahiltna and and vastness of the surrounding peaks and ridges. We were pushed to our limits and learned to dig deeper than ever before; whether it be cramponing on blue ice, being blown around on Windy Corner, struggling with all things altitude, or keeping our extremities warm in -40F windchill. We - a group of strangers prior to May 13 - became not only friends but teammates, encouraging each other in our hardest times, cheering each others’ successes, and cracking the most ridiculous and obscene jokes all day and late into the night.
Climbing Denali/Mt. McKinley has been physically and mentally the hardest thing I’ve ever done. Yet each night I went to sleep in the tent feeling a deep sense of gratitude and accomplishment.
Thank you to our incredible guides (Seth, Jackson, and Ray) for showing us the way, and more - from whipping up breakfast and dinner each day, to performing minor foot surgery, to digging Sisyphusian amounts of snow on the daily, to dealing with all of our client shenanigans. You each have unique gifts that helped me get farther than I thought possible.
Thank you to the rest of the team - the Dont-nalis :) Shannon, David, Ethan, Will, Juan, and of course my other half Jason. I am deeply grateful to have met and befriended each of you. I look forward to our paths crossing again on this great expedition of life.
Love,
RMI Climber Grace
]]>At RMI Expeditions, we often say our product isn’t actually the experiences we deliver or the mountains we climb - it’s our guides. When you rope up with an RMI guide, you’re not just getting a passionate mountaineer. You’re tying in a highly trained professional who’s been tested, mentored, and continually developed to lead with skill, confidence, and care. Plus, they’re pretty fun to hang out with!
We take that responsibility seriously. Here’s a look at how we train our guides, starting before they ever lead a trip, and continuing every season they return.
Before new guides ever tie in on a rope team with clients, they complete a rigorous, multi-phase training program that blends hard skills, soft skills, and mountain judgment. The curriculum is designed to mirror the AMGA Alpine Skills Course technically, and in many ways, go beyond it by training guides for the specific and demanding environments of Rainier, Denali, and other RMI destinations.
The program kicks off with classroom sessions and field exercises covering:
New hires are evaluated throughout the training on their professionalism, preparedness, work ethic, and communication, not just their technical ability. A key focus is developing a guide’s judgment and teaching ability in real-time conditions.
Training culminates with the Practical 1 Rescue Exam, where guides must demonstrate their ability to safely and efficiently manage crevasse rescue scenarios, lower clients, and respond to field incidents.
RMI’s training doesn’t replace AMGA standards - it complements and supports them. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is the national organization that oversees professional mountain guide education and certification in the U.S. Their internationally recognized standards are part of what defines the modern guiding profession, and we’re proud that many of our guides pursue AMGA training and ultimately work toward becoming IFMGA-certified mountain guides (what we call getting "pinned").
We actively support those goals. To date, we’ve awarded over $100,000 in guide education grants to help our staff pursue AMGA coursework, certifications, and mentorship. From SPI to Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide tracks, we expect our guides to go further, and we help them get there.
But we also recognize that certification alone doesn’t prepare someone to guide on Mount Rainier or Denali. Our internal training program fills that gap. Designed in collaboration with AMGA-certified instructors, our curriculum mirrors the Alpine Skills Course (ASC) while layering in the specific skills required to succeed in high-volume, high-consequence guiding environments:
In fact, our internal manuals and evaluations were called "among the best in the industry" in our AMGA accreditation report. We don’t see ourselves in competition with AMGA. We’re aligned in the mission: better trained, more professional, more capable guides across the industry.
Our goal is simple: give our guides the tools to grow, both at RMI and beyond.
At RMI, becoming a lead guide doesn’t happen overnight. Our advancement system is deliberate, structured, and performance-based.
After completing new hire training and Practical 1, guides begin working as assistants. They shadow and support lead guides, practice teaching climbing schools, and gain mileage on summit climbs.
Before leading a Mountaineering Day School, guides must:
To move from Associate to Lead Guide, they must:
These milestones ensure our guides lead with skill, experience, and a deep understanding of RMI’s guiding philosophy.
At RMI, guiding isn’t just a summer job. For many of our staff, it’s a career, and we’ve built advancement pathways to support that. Beyond the lead guide level, experienced guides can step into specialized leadership roles that expand their impact and increase their earning potential.
Supervisors are experienced lead guides who help shape RMI’s culture and set the tone for the guiding team. They mentor new guides, facilitate soft skills training, and model the professionalism and judgment we expect from every team member. Longtime RMI icons like Dave Hahn and Brent Okita exemplify what great supervision looks like: grounded, supportive, and deeply committed to both people and process.
While all guides participate in route maintenance, designated Route Finders take the lead in navigating Mount Rainier’s evolving glacial terrain. These guides - like Casey Grom - are essential to our success. They scout routes, assess hazards, and help increase our margin of safety, which gives our clients the best chance at reaching the summit. Their work is often quiet but critical.
Mountain Managers operate as the bridge between our guide team, office staff, and executive leadership. It’s a hybrid role that includes mentorship, schedule coordination, on-mountain risk management, and staff development. Guides like Dominic Cifelli do everything from running morning meetings to hiking to Camp Muir to assess conditions or support teams, these leaders are the glue of the operation.
They also take on HR responsibilities, manage workloads, help resolve issues, and lead training initiatives throughout the season. The position comes with a dedicated day rate on top of guide pay, recognizing its strategic importance to our programs.
Together, these roles offer a roadmap to help make guiding a long-term profession. They show what’s possible when talent, leadership, and opportunity come together in the mountains.
Being a great guide isn’t just about knots and anchors - it’s about presence. From day one, we coach our guides how to be empathetic, accessible, and caring. This includes:
We teach new guides how to think critically, anticipate needs, and navigate the subtle balance between safety and success. They learn to speak up about risk, communicate effectively with lead guides, and model professionalism in everything from gear checks to campsite chores.
While technical skills are hugely important to be a successful guide, it’s the soft skills that differentiate between a good climber and an excellent guide. Bottom line; if you don’t like people, you shouldn’t be a mountain guide.
Initial training is just the start. Guides further develop their hard and soft skills via continuing education. Each guide is required to have at least 18 hours of continuing education per year. During the summer climbing season, we conduct weekly continuing education courses in the evening from 6-9 PM. Topics include:
In addition to this continuing education, we have required certifications that we often offer for reduced rates to guides. These include Wilderness First Responder (WFR) recertifications, Search and Rescue (SAR) training, and Leave No Trace Workshops. More importantly, we create a culture where curiosity, humility, and improvement are celebrated, not just expected.
When you climb with RMI, you’re trusting us with more than your summit attempt; you’re trusting us with your safety, your experience, and, honestly, your life. That’s why we invest so heavily in guide development. We know that a strong, well-prepared guide can turn a challenging climb into a transformative experience.
So the next time you clip onto a rope with us, know this: your guide has trained extensively for it. Not just once, but continually.
]]>It's Earth Month, and there's no better time to talk about what RMI Expeditions has been doing for years to protect the mountains we love. From Mount Rainier to Denali, RMI has been setting the standard for environmental stewardship in mountaineering for decades. And it all starts with a little thing called Leave No Trace.
But RMI didn’t just hop on the Leave No Trace train—it helped build the tracks. As the first guide service to achieve the Leave No Trace Gold Standard Outfitter and Guide designation, RMI has a storied history of contributing to LNT principles, particularly for the Alpine Zone. Let’s break it down.
Leave No Trace is a set of outdoor ethics designed to promote outdoor conservation by minimizing human impact. Established by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics, it revolves around Seven Principles that guide responsible practices for enjoying natural areas while preserving them for future generations. The principles include:
While Leave No Trace applies to all outdoor environments, special considerations are needed for fragile alpine zones where plant life, wildlife, and natural features are particularly sensitive to human impact.
You can learn more at: https://lnt.org/
The early 2000s were not exactly known for pristine mountaineering practices. Waste (including human waste—yep, it’s gross but important) littered high-traffic peaks like Mount Rainier and Denali. RMI’s own Peter Whittaker realized the full extent of the problem firsthand after completing a Leave No Trace Master Course around 2003. Realizing the lack of established principles for the Alpine Zone, Peter took action.
Working with Mount Rainier National Park, RMI implemented the Blue Bag system, a simple yet effective way to manage human waste in delicate environments. But they didn’t stop there. RMI hosted a symposium that brought together concessionaires, climbing clubs like the Mazamas and Seattle Mountaineers, and park rangers to establish clear Leave No Trace guidelines for the Alpine Zone.
That effort resulted in the official LNT Alpine Zone protocols, helping to reduce waste and environmental impact on mountains worldwide. For a while, cards detailing these principles were handed out with climbing permits for Mount Rainier, ensuring that every climber understood their responsibility to protect the mountain.
RMI’s efforts didn’t stop with Rainier. As RMI expanded its operations to Denali, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Everest, it applied those same Leave No Trace principles to these new environments. Guides are trained to minimize impacts in different alpine zones, from volcanic terrain to high-altitude glaciated environments. RMI's influence has spread not only across the U.S. but internationally as well.
Additionally, RMI played a key role in developing specific LNT curriculum for mountaineering. Collaborating with the Center for Outdoor Ethics, RMI contributed to creating guidelines that are now applied worldwide. This dedication led to RMI being recognized as the first Gold Standard Outfitter and Guide by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics.
RMI Guides on Environmental Patrol in Mount Rainier National Park
Today, RMI continues to raise the bar when it comes to sustainability. And we’re not just talking about lectures on recycling.
RMI’s efforts have also extended to the Sustainable Summits Conference, where they work with other leaders in the climbing community to establish best practices for environmental stewardship. Sharing techniques, experiences, and solutions from expeditions worldwide continues to inform RMI’s approach to Leave No Trace.
RMI is one of the few guiding services to offer a Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course, combined with a summit of Mount Baker. This five-day expedition combines climbing instruction with an immersive LNT curriculum, preparing participants to become Leave No Trace instructors themselves.
Participants learn how to plan and teach LNT courses, manage groups in the field, and apply Leave No Trace principles in alpine environments. Graduates are certified to teach LNT Level 1 courses, skills courses, and workshops. It’s a chance to not only climb one of the most beautiful peaks in the North Cascades but to do it responsibly—and teach others to do the same.
RMI Expeditions isn’t just a guiding service. It’s a community committed to preserving the wild landscapes we explore. Whether it’s through implementing the Blue Bag system, running carbon-neutral expeditions, or teaching the next generation of Leave No Trace instructors, RMI continues to set the standard for environmental stewardship.
Interested in learning more? Check out our Leave No Trace Level 2 Instructor Course on Mount Baker and take your mountaineering skills to the next level—while ensuring the mountains stay pristine for generations to come.
Whether you’re aiming for the Seven Summits or just dabbling in your first high-elevation trek, the world’s peaks have a way of casting their spell. But here’s the rub: every trip to altitude carries an environmental price tag, from burned fossil fuels to the social impact on local communities. Below, you’ll find a comprehensive guide to reducing your environmental footprint—from travel logistics to gear choices, community engagement, and more. Ready to go green without losing your sense of adventure? Read on.
You’ve probably heard of the “Plan Ahead and Prepare” principle from Leave No Trace. But let’s dig deeper into what planning really means for sustainability—beyond your typical gear checklist.
When you map out your journey with sustainability in mind, you set the tone for the entire expedition.
Mountaineering typically implies a fair bit of travel, often involving airplanes, long drives, or other resource-intensive modes of transport. While some carbon emissions are inevitable, you can soften the blow.
Think of it this way: every mile you don’t drive, or every ounce you don’t pack, is a little less environmental strain on the places you plan to explore.
Yes, that shiny new jacket is tempting. But choosing and maintaining gear responsibly is key to lowering your expedition’s overall footprint.
Choose Durable, High-Quality Equipment
Shop Secondhand or Rent
Whittaker Mountaineering's Gear Cache is a great resource for light used mountaineering gear and apparel.
Repair, Don’t Replace
Sustainability in mountaineering gear is all about thinking long-term. A piece of equipment that lasts five expeditions instead of one means fewer resources extracted, manufactured, and transported.
RMI's Everest Base Camp Trek.
Trekking off to remote mountains can be a dream come true—but it also means entering somebody else’s backyard. Showing respect for local cultures and economies is just as important as minimizing your environmental footprint.
By actively supporting local communities, you help ensure that tourism remains a positive force—and not just a resource drain or cultural imposition.
Once you’re on the mountain, day-to-day choices matter more than you might think. Remember that LNT (Leave No Trace) extends beyond just “picking up trash”; it’s a philosophy that touches every aspect of your expedition.
Food is a big part of the mountaineering experience—nobody wants to summit on an empty stomach. But you can think sustainably about meal planning, too.
Food can be fun, nourishing, and an eco-friendly highlight of your trip—especially if you’ve planned it thoughtfully.
Long expedition packing lists often include maps, guidebooks, logbooks, and more. While you should always have a physical map and compass as a backup (electronic devices can fail), you can reduce paper consumption by going digital where it’s practical.
A balance between old-school reliability and modern digital convenience can help cut down on the reams of paperwork that often accompany big expeditions.
One of the most impactful ways to create a greener mountaineering culture is to share what you’re doing. Whether you’re a once-a-year climber or a seasoned expedition leader, modeling sustainable practices influences others.
The more people see sustainable mountaineering as the norm rather than the exception, the faster we’ll all move toward preserving the mountains we love.
Mountains demand grit, determination, and respect. It’s only fair we extend that respect not just to the route itself, but to the ecosystems and communities that thrive in these high places. By researching your travel options, curating your gear responsibly, respecting local cultures, and being mindful of waste, you can slash your expedition’s environmental impact—often without sacrificing comfort or fun.
So next time you’re huddled in a tent at base camp, sipping hot tea and gazing at the summit you’re about to tackle, remember: your summit story should be about more than just “Did I make it?” Let it also be, “Did I leave this place better—or at least no worse—than I found it?” Follow the tips here, and you’ll be well on your way to ensuring the mountains remain just as awe-inspiring for the next wide-eyed adventurer setting foot on that trail.
Proper recovery and consolidation are critical yet often overlooked aspects of mountaineering training. After all, building endurance and strength is only half the equation: your body and mind need dedicated time to repair, adapt, and regain full energy. By balancing intense efforts with planned rest, you ensure that each training cycle leaves you stronger, more motivated, and better equipped for the mountains.
Mountaineering places massive demands on your cardiovascular system, muscular endurance, and mental fortitude. During climbs, even minor fatigue can quickly compound at high altitudes or on challenging terrain. A well-designed recovery strategy replenishes energy stores, repairs muscle fibers, and restores hormonal balance, ensuring you approach your next session (or summit day) with optimal readiness.
Key Takeaway: Without proper recovery, these adaptive processes remain incomplete, limiting your potential gains and putting you at risk of overtraining or injury.
A consolidation week is a structured period of reduced training volume—often every three to five weeks—where your body can absorb the efforts from high-intensity training phases.
How to Schedule: Aim for every four weeks (or roughly once a month) to reduce training volume to about 50% of the highest recent load. This might mean cutting your mileage or training hours in half, but maintaining some low-level activity to keep muscles limber.
Note: Feeling anxious about “losing fitness” during a consolidation week is common. Yet research and anecdotal experience show that planned rest increases overall gains, enabling you to train harder and safer in the long run.
Sleep is arguably the single most powerful recovery tool. During deep sleep stages, your body secretes human growth hormone (HGH), repairs muscle tissues, and cements new motor patterns learned during training.
Strategies for Optimizing Sleep:
Recovery hinges on providing your body with the right nutrients. If you’re consistently underfed or missing key vitamins and minerals, the adaptation process stalls.
Focus Areas:
“A post-workout snack within 5-10 minutes of completing your workout is critical to jumpstart recovery!" - Pete Van Deventer, RMI Guide
Gentle, low-impact activities on rest days—such as short walks, stretching, or easy cycling—can boost blood flow without causing further fatigue. This subtle movement helps flush out waste products and reduces muscle soreness, preventing the stiffness that often follows intense workouts.
Caution: Make sure these sessions remain truly light. If you push too hard, your “recovery day” morphs into an extra training session, which can hamper adaptation.
While a motivated approach to training is essential, extremes can derail progress. Overzealous athletes often stack volume and intensity too quickly, leading to injuries or burnout.
Key Guidelines:
After a successful (or even unsuccessful) climb, deliberate rest and reflection ensure you extract maximum value from your experience. This downtime can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, depending on climb severity, altitude, and your personal recovery needs.
Steps for Effective Post-Climb Reflection:
Once you feel refreshed—physically and mentally—dive into planning your upcoming objective. By mapping out the demands of your next mountain (duration, altitude, terrain, climate), you can tailor your training to address those specific challenges.
Tip: If you discovered a particular vulnerability (e.g., you struggled at altitude), incorporate targeted exercises, gear tweaks, or specialized training to improve that aspect.
Mountaineering success isn’t solely measured by summits. It’s also the entire journey—from prepping gear and planning routes to pushing yourself physically and mentally, then returning home with lessons learned. Maintaining balance and motivation ensures you don’t just burn brightly and fizzle out; you stay in the game for years of amazing climbs.
Remember:
Recovery and consolidation are the linchpins of sustainable mountaineering success. Strategic rest, mindful reflection, and controlled training volume not only reduce the risk of injuries and burnout but also sharpen your mental edge. By weaving consolidation weeks into your schedule, optimizing sleep and nutrition, and taking time to reflect post-climb, you set yourself up for continual growth and deeper enjoyment in the mountains.
So, as you plan your next expedition—whether a weekend ascent or a multi-week Himalayan adventure—carve out intentional rest and reflection. In doing so, you’ll heighten your climbing resilience, preserve your passion, and discover just how far your mountaineering ambitions can take you.
High-intensity interval training (HIIT) has surged in popularity for good reason: it delivers significant cardiovascular and muscular benefits in a relatively short time. While often associated with general fitness or sports like running and cycling, interval training also holds profound implications for mountaineers seeking to boost endurance, push higher anaerobic thresholds, and build the mental toughness essential for high-altitude climbs. This article explores the practical applications, historical context, and personal experiences related to interval training in a mountaineering context—plus tips on avoiding pitfalls and balancing high-intensity work with necessary recovery.
Keep in mind that the best type of Interval Training you can do for mountaineering will mimic mountaineering as closely as possible - Footborne is best, bike is close, and swimming less effective for our sport (but maybe necessary for people with pain/joint/other issues that prevent a lot of foodborne training.)
Mountaineering demands not just long, steady endurance, but also the ability to handle sudden efforts—like powering up a steep face, navigating technical sections, or kicking steps in deep snow. Interval training develops both the aerobic capacity needed for sustained climbing and the anaerobic efficiency required for short, strenuous bursts. By incorporating intervals, climbers improve:
Many top mountaineering guides and endurance coaches—such as those at Uphill Athlete—emphasize interval sessions as a valuable supplement to long, slow distance training. When properly balanced with recovery, intervals can accelerate fitness gains and help climbers adapt to physically and mentally demanding conditions at higher elevations.
In essence, interval training alternates periods of intense effort with intervals of active recovery. The structure can vary depending on your goals: Pushing your aerobic threshold higher is best accomplished via fartleks or 4x4 or other longer intervals, while pushing your anaerobic threshold and building explosive strength may use 30 sec to 1 minute intervals. Regardless of format, the main goal is to push beyond your comfort zone, then allow partial recovery before attacking another effort.
While high-intensity training may seem like a modern fitness trend, its roots date back nearly a century. In the 1930s, Swedish coach Gösta Holmér developed the “fartlek” workout—meaning “speed play”—to revitalize the Swedish cross-country running team. This approach introduced unstructured intervals of faster running mixed with easier paces, mimicking the varied demands of natural terrain.
Over the decades, interval training principles evolved:
Below are three primary interval formats particularly beneficial for mountaineers. Each addresses slightly different aspects of performance, from mental adaptability to raw power output.
Fartlek workouts are unstructured intervals that alternate high and moderate intensities, simulating real-world mountain terrain variability. Because steep pitches, uneven terrain, and route changes require sudden shifts in pace, fartlek’s playful format aligns perfectly with mountaineering demands.
How to Perform Fartlek Workouts:
The 4x4 interval is a structured session comprising four intervals, each at high intensity, followed by designated recovery periods. Popularized by Norwegian sports scientists, it’s known for elevating aerobic capacity and boosting anaerobic performance.
Performing the 4x4 Workout:
Ladder intervals progressively increase, then decrease effort durations within a single session. This up-and-down structure helps simulate the fluctuating challenges of a climb—rapidly varying efforts for navigating steeper sections or overcoming obstacles.
Benefits for Climbers:
When weather, work, or life constraints limit outdoor access, indoor cycling intervals offer an excellent alternative. They target the same cardiovascular and muscular systems as running or uphill hikes, with minimal impact on joints—a big plus for those balancing mountaineering with life in the lowlands.
Former RMI Guide JJ Justman shares his personal indoor interval cycling workout designed to push both aerobic and anaerobic limits:
“Here in Ashford, the rain often keeps me indoors. But my passion for high-altitude mountaineering and cycling means I can’t let weather disrupt my training. My go-to indoor cycling interval session is simple yet incredibly effective.”
JJ’s Interval Cycling Workout:
“I perform this workout while watching recorded Tour de France stages—nothing beats pretending I’m out-sprinting Philippe Gilbert! Pushing through these intense intervals not only builds my physical capacity but develops the mental toughness required for challenging ascents like Denali’s fixed lines.”
Intervals push your heart and lungs to work near their capacity, increasing stroke volume (blood pumped per heartbeat) and overall cardiac output. This efficiency is essential for oxygen delivery at high altitudes.
By repeatedly pushing into higher heart rate zones, interval workouts raise your anaerobic threshold. You’ll be able to sustain higher-intensity efforts—such as steep pitches—without significant lactate buildup.
Interval training is inherently uncomfortable. Overcoming that discomfort fosters mental toughness, enabling you to manage pain, fatigue, and challenging conditions effectively during prolonged climbs.
Intervals are highly demanding. While they can accelerate fitness gains, they also stress your muscles, cardiovascular system, and central nervous system. Overdoing intervals without adequate rest can lead to overtraining, injury, or chronic fatigue.
Tips for Balancing Intensity & Recovery:
Interval training’s popularity has spawned numerous misconceptions—particularly the idea that short, high-intensity workouts can replace all other forms of training.
Interval training, integrated thoughtfully into your overall approach, can significantly enhance mountaineering performance. By combining structured sessions like 4x4 and ladder intervals with more free-form types like fartlek—and by experimenting with indoor cycling or other cross-training methods—you create a versatile, robust regimen.
Remember: Intervals are one piece of the puzzle. Maintaining a solid aerobic base, prioritizing recovery, and including strength sessions all remain critical. Done correctly, interval training not only boosts your physical endurance but also builds mental resilience, ensuring that when the steep sections come—or when altitude tries to slow you down—you have the capacity to persevere.
Mountaineering requires you to keep moving over rugged terrain at moderate to high altitudes, often for hours or days on end. In this demanding environment, aerobic fitness forms the bedrock of success. A robust aerobic foundation enables mountaineers to conserve energy, recover more quickly, and sustain steady effort as they push toward the summit.
This guide offers a deep dive into the key elements of aerobic training, showing you how to balance steady long efforts with targeted intensity sessions to elevate your climbing performance. Drawing on principles from experienced mountain coaches and popular endurance training resources, we’ll explore proven methodologies and practical tips to help you build the endurance you need.
Aerobic base training lies at the heart of any mountaineering fitness plan. When you trek up a glacier or carry a heavy pack across steep trails, your body relies heavily on its aerobic energy systems. The stronger your aerobic foundation, the more efficiently you can:
This concept isn’t limited to elite climbers. Whether you’re a weekend hiker preparing for a 14,000-foot summit or an alpinist chasing technical routes in the Himalayas, investing in aerobic base training reaps long-term dividends. According to Steve House and Scott Johnston—authors of Training for the New Alpinism—a consistent focus on “aerobic capacity” is paramount for effective, resilient climbing performance.
Modern approaches to aerobic training often trace back to Arthur Lydiard, the influential New Zealand running coach. Lydiard popularized the idea that aerobic training isn’t just “long and slow,” but can and should be divided into specific workout types:
Mountaineering calls for extended, low-to-moderate intensity output—often with occasional intense bursts (e.g., ascending a steep pitch or crossing a tricky crevasse). Developing a wide “aerobic engine” helps you handle these diverse demands. Renowned performance physiologist Dr. Philip Skiba points out that an athlete’s ability to switch between steady aerobic efforts and brief surges largely hinges on the robustness of their aerobic base.
Reference: For more on how aerobic development underpins endurance sports, see the resources provided by Uphill Athlete, co-founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston.
Aerobic Threshold (AeT)
Lactate Threshold (LT)
VO₂ Max
When a climber’s training program skews too heavily toward high-intensity workouts (like repeated sprints or heavy interval focus) at the expense of low-intensity, longer-duration work, Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (ADS) can develop.
How to Avoid ADS
Ensure the bulk of your training focuses on sustained, lower-intensity aerobic work—often referred to as “Zone 1–2” training. Occasional speed or interval sessions are still valuable, but if they dominate your program, you risk undermining your aerobic foundation.
Steady-state workouts involve maintaining a moderate-to-high intensity (80–85% of your max heart rate, or around Zone 3 in many heart rate models) for 20 minutes to an hour. They bridge the gap between easy, low-intensity aerobic work and threshold-level intervals.
Long Duration (Low-Intensity) Workouts
Fartlek or “Speed Play”
Below is a sample framework for integrating aerobic training into a typical climbing-focused schedule. The key principle: a significant portion of your weekly volume remains in Zones 1–2, ensuring you genuinely develop that aerobic foundation.
Long, steady efforts cultivate mental resilience—a critical asset when conditions get tough. Uphill Athlete cites that a steady, methodical approach to training builds confidence in your physical abilities, which in turn reduces stress and anxiety on summit day.
Developing a solid aerobic foundation demands patience, discipline, and steady effort. But the rewards—more efficient movement under load, less fatigue, and heightened confidence for high-altitude climbs—are well worth the investment. Whether you’re aiming for Rainier, Denali, or a lofty Himalayan peak, a strong aerobic base sets you up for success on every step of the journey.
Keep in mind that the minimum time to improve your aerobic base is around 8 weeks, but gains will be limited. 16 to 24 weeks is a much more effective timeframe for seeing significant improvement with focused training.
By following these time-tested principles, you’ll forge the endurance needed for ambitious mountaineering goals and fully savor the experience of being in the mountains.
When you watch an elite runner cross a marathon finish line, you’ll likely see them point to their cheering squad, coach, or training partners. After a climber achieves a major first ascent, they’ll thank the mentors, rope teams, and supporters who made it possible. Few athletes achieve peak performance alone. In the world of mountaineering, community can be an especially potent catalyst. Yet for many of us—whether due to our location, irregular schedules, or not knowing other like-minded climbers—our training can feel solitary.
In this article, we’ll explore why community matters so much, how to build an effective training community (even if you live far from the mountains), and practical steps you can take to leverage collective motivation. Drawing on sports psychology, coaching best practices, and real-world testimonials, we’ll show how a supportive network can turbocharge your fitness journey for that next summit or glacier climb.
Research in sports psychology emphasizes how social support can elevate both consistency and intensity in training (Rees & Freeman, 2009). When you have friends or teammates committed to similar goals, you’re more likely to:
Mountaineering is mentally challenging: uncertain weather, long summit days, and the inherent risks of high-altitude environments demand resilience. A supportive community helps you process setbacks, maintain confidence, and celebrate milestones. Studies show that athletes who feel socially connected report higher self-efficacy and lower burnout rates (Smith et al., 2019).
Think of your favorite climbing icon—Chad Kellogg, Sasha DiGiulian, Hilaree Nelson, or Reinhold Messner. Nearly all have credited mentors, coaches, or local clubs that shaped their early development. Even “solo” ascents come after hundreds of hours training in a social context, gleaning feedback and motivation from peers.
Living far from the mountains doesn’t mean you can’t find climbers or endurance athletes nearby. Often, local running, cycling, or gym communities are filled with potential training partners who share an interest in challenging pursuits. What matters is forging connections around similar intensities of effort and shared accountability (RMI Newsletter excerpt).
Some climbers worry they’ll be judged if they post “modest” workouts or haven’t summited a 14,000-foot peak yet. In reality, seeing everyone’s incremental progress can be a source of inspiration and empathy. Positive, supportive cultures encourage each participant, regardless of level (Carron & Eys, 2012).
“For some, it may be intimidating to post their workout in an open environment like this, but realize that inspiration from your workout may be just what someone else needs.” — RMI Newsletter excerpt
When distance or scheduling keeps you isolated, digital communities bridge the gap. The RMI Expeditions Strava Club is one example, but there are many platforms to explore:
A key to sustaining any training group—online or in-person—is healthy dialogue. Make sure your community fosters:
“…when we post back to the community, our effort can serve as someone else’s motivation, and as a group, we all train harder, smarter, better.” — RMI Newsletter excerpt
The success of such a club lies in members sharing everything from easy recovery walks to intense mountain runs, giving kudos, and exchanging training tips—keeping the atmosphere constructive and positive.
Even if you can’t hire a full-time mountaineering coach, you can seek out mentors or experts within your community:
Coaches and mentors often push you out of your comfort zone. From an extra set of squats to an extended loop on the treadmill, structured feedback can yield significant performance gains (Vickers, 2007).
A training community—be it physical or virtual—represents more than a collection of individuals logging miles or vertical gain. It’s an evolving ecosystem of support, learning, and shared triumph. For mountaineers especially, every ounce of synergy can translate to fewer bail-outs, stronger summits, and memorable experiences that outlast any single climb.
“We accomplish some amazing feats, and we also all go through dark days in our training when things don’t seem to be going right. Let’s let this community strengthen us.” — RMI Newsletter excerpt
So, whether you join the RMI Expeditions Strava Club, start a local hiking group, or simply coordinate treadmill sessions with a friend across the country, remember: you’re forging a network that can lift you up on days of doubt and celebrate with you on summit day. And in the often-isolating pursuit of mountaineering excellence, that kind of fellowship is worth its weight in gold.
This article was originally written by former RMI Guide Billy Haas.
As climbers we make every effort to be as lazy as possible. We seek to accomplish our goals and objectives with as little effort as necessary, and will cringe at the idea of making something harder than it needs to be. This may seem contrary to the image of climbing as an extreme activity during which many people find their physical and mental limit. However, we often choose objectives that are at the peak of our abilities and thus we are required to maximize efficiency in our effort if we are to succeed.
What I refer to tongue-in-cheek as laziness is in reality efficiency: efficiency, which can be found in every aspect of mountain existence. Whether it be the way a rock climber positions their body on a route or an alpine climber packs for an expedition, success in the mountains involves high levels of efficiency. There some methods of efficiency that don’t directly involve the physical act of climbing but rather things you can do prior to and while climbing that can give you a leg up. I refer to these as “putting money in the bank.” I think that saying came from a high school teacher referring to gimme questions on an exam, but for me “money in the bank” means any techniques or tricks that can give you an efficiency advantage in the mountains.
I would like to share some of the things I’ve learned from my time in the mountains with a specific focus on climbing Mt. Rainier.
Efficiency in Equipment
A great place to start improving your efficiency in the mountains begins with your equipment: what equipment are you using and does it work for you? Place a high priority on critical items such as boots and or packs, and worry less about items such as a fancy headlamp or spork.
For me, a well-fit boot that is designed for the type of climbing I am doing is imperative. A good boot can mean the difference between a successful summit and a failed attempt; blisters and cold feet should never thwart a climber’s chance at the summit. In addition, find a climbing pack that carries weight well and fits you properly. Forget all the fancy features and pockets; a simple and minimalist pack that fits and carries weight well is what I look for. You might be able to get by with an old pack or a warm weather climbing boot, but why chance it? Having the right gear for the task makes for one less thing that could slow you down.
Maintaining your gear makes a big difference too. I regularly spend a few hours taking care of small issues that have cropped up with my equipment to make sure that everything is going to work well when I need it to and not fail when it really counts. I trust my life to my equipment and so do others. For example, I frequently re-waterproof my gloves and Gore-Tex jackets. A headlamp is no good if your batteries run out, and a boot will not work as well if the laces snap. Not every piece of equipment needs to be new, but it does need to work properly. Climbing is too much fun to be hampered by equipment issues!
Efficiency in Packing
With the right gear and everything dialed in, you need to pack it all up. As guides, we seem to have a magical ability to pack 50 liters of gear into a 30 liter pack, but what may seem to be magic is really just some good common sense. My favorite metaphor for packing is “brick and mortar.” Some of your items are going to be bricks (eg: sleeping bag in stuff sack) and some are going to be mortar (eg: puffy jacket).
When packing, also consider multi-use items. A 1/2 liter nalgene makes for a great coffee mug and can also carry an extra 1/2 liter of water when you need it. You want to maximize space and value in your pack. Crampons don’t need a crampon case, since quite often wrapping them in your gaiters works just fine and saves space and weight. Putting some time and thought into a well-packed kit can often fit in a smaller pack. Smaller packs equal lighter packs, giving you a little more money in the bank.
Hydration and Nutrition
With packing complete, there are still a few more things you can do before a climb that will get you ahead. For me this starts with my nutrition and hydration. On Mt. Rainier, I’ve found that from the time I leave home in the morning to the time my team is hiking out of Paradise (approx. 1.5 hours), I can easily sip down a liter of water. Don’t chug water, but slowly sip a liter in the morning and on the bus ride to Paradise. This will help make sure that you are hydrated for the beginning of your climb. Pre-hydration, which can start as early as the night before, allows me to bring less water during a climb (less weight), and helps prevent dehydration. I can recover more quickly, and can focus on other aspects of the climb instead of staving off dehydration.
With regards to nutrition, my best suggestion is to learn your own body. I know how much fuel my body needs at a high level of activity, which is less than some of my friends but definitely more than others. For two-day trips such as Mt. Rainer, I try to be as precise as I can with the amount of food I bring. Start by factoring around 200 calories per break and then adjust from there to your specific needs. In addition to that, bring foods you enjoy eating and can eat while exercising. I love pizza, but definitely wouldn’t want a slice in the middle of a climb. Remember; when we climb at altitude the effort is roughly similar to how our bodies feel during a slow jog. Focus on foods that hold a lot of caloric value. By bringing the right food and bring only the food you’ll need, you’ll save space and carry less weight.
Breaks and Timing
Lastly, be efficient with your time. When taking a break, maximize your time resting and recovering. Get your self-care chores done early and quickly so that you get as much time off of your feet as possible. This applies to getting to camp also. Take care of business first so that you spend a maximum amount of time recovering later. Use momentum to your advantage: we take short breaks so we do not lose our momentum, and when you roll into camp use that same momentum to set up and settle in before you are too tired to do the things you should have done. This might be setting up camp or dealing with a pesky blister; the sooner you get it done the sooner you can rest. Keep in mind that even if we feel great we still need to recover!
These are just a few theories on how to be more efficient while climbing. Climbers are constantly in opposition with gravity and time, so a light pack will allow us to expend less energy, and quick recoveries will make us stronger for the next day. Every bit of money in the bank you can save will give you a better chance of success on the mountain, and will be one less issue to worry about. Learn from others, and learn what works best for you. Take the time to find the right gear, pack well, eat and drink right, and maximize your rest because the climb is not getting any easier and the mountains are not getting any smaller!
Billy Haas guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad for RMI Expeditions. When not traveling to mountains around the world to climb or ski, Billy guides backcountry skiing and teaches avalanche courses in Salt Lake City, UT.
]]>There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible. On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes.
On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door. My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises.
Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals.
Aerobic Base Building Phase
During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times. This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid.
Intensity Phase
Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between. This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well. The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance.
My Example Workout
I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:
I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team.
Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling.
Your Go-To Workout
While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals. If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time. Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time.
Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily. Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured. Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb!
]]>Former RMI Guide Adam Knoff originally wrote this for the training blog a few years ago.
Today I was surprisingly asked a question that, as far as I can tell, is as old as human curiosity, parental affection and plain ol’ sibling rivalry. This may seem strange because I only have one child, and my somewhat unhinged three wingnut dogs can’t speak and honestly don’t care about the answer as long as they are fed and played with. As you may have guessed, the question so abruptly put on me this morning was: “daddy, who’s your favorite?” Harder to guess was, who asked it?
Things started normally enough; I made breakfast for my kiddo before packing him up and carting him off to preschool. I fed my dogs and chickens, cleaned the kitchen, and prepared for a day of light recreating before my afternoon duties began. It was when I entered the garage, home to my all important man cave and location of all my beloved fly fishing and climbing gear that things took a bizarre turn. Standing in front of me (I kid you not!) side by side, with puppy dog eyes looking up, stood my 12’6” Echo spey rod and my carbon fiber, oh so beautiful, Cobra ice tools. These sorts of things don’t just happen so I double checked my reality button. Dreaming? No I don’t think so. I have been up for three hours, had my coffee, and still felt the throb in my left big toe where I slammed it into the chest at the side of my bed. Ok, I’m awake. Drugged? No, I quit taking hallucinogens in high school and my wife, I think, genuinely cares about me. Then what? My two favorite activities in life, swinging flies for big trout with my spey rod and ice climbing, which is now doable in Bozeman, Montana, have come to a head. With a few free hours, my fishing rod and ice tools came alive and wanted me to pick favorites. Sheeesh! What’s a guy to do?
As time stood still, I began to reflect on the week long steelhead fishing trip I took just two weeks prior to the Grand Rhond, Clearwater, and Snake rivers. Ohhh, the joy of that trip made me quiver. It made me want to reach out, grab my spey rod child and declare my love for him. 28 inch ocean run rainbows on the swing, the thrill of the next hook up, not wearing a heavy pack; the reasons almost overwhelmed me. Yes, yes, you will always be my favorite!!! Then I saw my ice tools. Hyalite Canyon is in! I can’t wait for the thrill of running it out on newly formed thin ice over a stubby ice screw, waking up before the sun, and realizing this day was bound to hold everything but the predictable. Ohh, ice tools, you are my favorite, “let’s go climb something!” I think you understand my dilemma.
Parenting has taught me much in the five years that I’ve been at it. Love, patience and compassion are always at the forefront of dealing with children. Frustrations always arise. Liam spills my wine on the new rug, my spey rod whips bullets at the back of my head leaving welts the size of cheese curds on my scalp, ice tools rip out unexpectedly and send waves of sudden panic through me that make me want to puke. All part of the landscape I guess. So how did I answer the question, “who is your favorite”? Here I leaned on the invaluable lessons gleaned from seven years of blissful marriage. I compromised.
That day I took the ice tools out for their first climb of the season. I packed them up with the rest of my climbing gear all the while psyched I had just promised my fishing rod we would get out tomorrow. It’s a difficult web we weave, balancing work and play. I honestly felt troubled that I had to recreate two days in a row, climbing then fishing, but then again parenting is also about sacrifice.
As readers of the RMI Blog, most of you are probably cracking a smile but are also curious how this story is relevant to the mission of mountain climbing, training, and/or preparing for an upcoming goal. Here is how I connect the dots: Fishing for me is the yin to my climbing yang. It is a glorious mental escape which allows me to shelve my daily stresses and exist purely in the moment. Everyone needs this periodic meditation to reset and clear the mind. For many, exercise accomplishes the same release but regular exercise does not necessarily constitute “training”. The expectations I put on myself when climbing on my own are very high and the specific training schedule I follow can at times be demanding, painful, and sometimes unpleasant.
Here is where we tie in sacrifice. Everyone’s life is managed by time. Somewhere on that big round clock is time you can utilize for yourself. If you have a goal of climbing a mountain, running a marathon, or bench pressing a Ford truck, you need to prioritize and then commit! Finding enjoyment and purpose in life comes when these commitments are made. Being a husband and father keep me grounded. Being a passionate climber and guide keep me psyched and motivated, and the hunt for big fish calms me down. In the big picture I think I have found some balance. Remember it takes the black and the white, the yin and the yang, to complete the circle. The web you weave and balance you seek are your own, but seek it with conviction and purpose and you will be just fine.
]]>The following article is written by author and former RMI client, Ady Peterson.
I summited Mt. Rainier a few years ago with RMI. I won’t lie to you: it is to date the HARDEST physical challenge I’ve ever taken on (even as a collegiate athlete, and a yoga, barre, and spin instructor). But, I can also tell you, it was COMPLETELY worth it. And I can tell you what got me to the top: the right preparation.
First of all: STAIRS, stairs, and more stairs. Whether you find them at a local stadium, in your apartment building, or even the stair climber at the gym, stairs are a must (I lived in Seattle when I summited, but I’m in Texas now. I know that you might have to get creative depending on where). Put some weight in your pack (immediately) and just start climbing. You can increase the weight in your pack as you get stronger.
One thing that I wish I had known as I trained on all those stairs is the “Rest Step”. The Rest Step is exactly what it sounds like: you take a step, rest, take another step, rest. Over and over at a quick tempo-- rest, step, rest step, rest, step. If you’re not familiar, do a quick search on YouTube for “Rest Step Climb” for a visual. With just a little practice, you’ll have the Rest Step down—it’s a vital technique for conserving energy, and that’s what an endurance climb is really all about. Which leads me to my next training tip: YOGA.
Yoga helped me develop a greater awareness of my breath and lung capacity. When the air gets thin 14,000 feet up and you feel like your lungs are collapsing, you’ll be grateful for your practice breathing deeply and evenly. I was doing yoga about 3 times a week leading up to my climb, and I had very little trouble with altitude. Speaking of altitude—that’s what breaks new climbers down the most. It shows up as shortness of breath (see above), but also as fatigue and nausea.
For these last two, help yourself: pack REAL FOOD—ideally food that you LOVE, so that you’ll be willing to eat, even when you don’t want to (trust me, at times you WON’T want to). All those goop packs you can get at REI are great, but they’re not meant for 2-4 day adventures. I’m gluten-free and vegan, so I packed dried fruit, trail mix, LARA bars (or homemade date balls! My favorite!), and pre-made quinoa. I also had some rice tortillas. Remember, this is mountain climbing, not a walk in the park—calories are your friends: get a good balance of sugar, carbs, and protein, however works for you. I’ve done quite a bit of hiking, so I had an idea of what go-to foods I’d want on the climb. If you don’t, I’d recommend taking some test-foods out with you on a few hikes or stair workouts, so you can see how your body reacts to certain foods or proportions in the middle of long workouts.
Stairs, Rest-stepping, breathing, and food prep. If you’ve been preparing with marathon runs and Olympic weightlifting, these training methods might sound like small things. But then…“It’s not the mountain ahead that wears you down, it’s the pebble in your shoe.” – Muhammad Ali
Hi! I'm Adrianne. I've been an athlete my whole life, starting as a dancer at age seven. Eventually, I danced at the Olympics in Sydney 2000, but after juggling dance and soccer for years, I eventually chose to focus on soccer. Soccer got me a college scholarship, and I played for four years as I earned my degree. After college, I desperately sought to maintain my sports brain (and body) and soon I discovered yoga. Before I knew it, I'd completed three yoga teacher trainings--I've been teaching yoga since 2010! My love for teaching grew exponentially during this time, so I sought other ways to grow as an instructor. That's how I discovered FlyBarre--on the first class, I was HOOKED! I then began teaching Indoor Cycling at Flywheel in Austin and cannot imagine my life without a coaching aspect to it. I summited Mt. Rainier in the midst of all of this and can honestly say it was the hardest thing I've ever done and my 3rd most accomplished (after the Olympics and soccer scholarship). I love the outdoors, and anything to keep me out there is always at the forefront of my mind. I would love to help you on your journey to summit ANY mountain you have your sights on. You can follow me on Instagram @thirtyish_ and check out my blog, thirty-ish.com.
]]>This guide will help you prepare your meals, focusing on breakfast, lunch, and dinner, ensuring you have a balanced diet to maintain your strength and morale throughout the expedition.
Eating at high altitude can be challenging due to reduced appetite and the physical demands of climbing. It’s essential to maintain a regular eating schedule and consume enough calories to sustain your energy levels. Opt for high-calorie, nutrient-dense foods that are easy to digest and enjoy. Staying hydrated is equally important, so drink plenty of fluids, including water and hot drinks.
A hearty breakfast is essential to start your day on the mountain. Breakfast should provide a mix of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats to fuel your morning climb. Here are some ideal breakfast options to consider:
Instant Oatmeal or Grits: Quick to prepare, providing a warm, comforting start to your day.
Cold Cereal (Granola): Easy to eat, even in cold weather, and offers a good mix of carbohydrates and fiber.
Bagels with Cream Cheese: A substantial option that offers carbs and fats, providing lasting energy.
Bacon and Eggs: If you have the means to cook them, they provide excellent protein and fats.
Breakfast Bars: Convenient and packed with energy, ideal for quick mornings.
Hot Drinks (Tea, Coffee, Hot Cocoa): Essential for warmth and comfort, helping to keep you hydrated and warm.
Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day to maintain energy levels. These snacks should be easy to consume without preparation or hot water. The key is to bring a variety of foods that you genuinely enjoy, stimulating your palate and encouraging consistent eating, which is vital at high altitudes where appetite can diminish.
Recommended Mountain Lunch Items:
Dinners on McKinley are designed to be hearty and satisfying, helping you recover from the day’s exertions and prepare for the next day. The menu typically includes fresh food, retort entrees, freeze-dried meals, and packaged items, ensuring variety and adequate nutrition.
Fresh Food: Vegetables, tortillas, and cheese provide a break from dehydrated meals and offer essential nutrients.
Retort Entrees: Fully cooked meals that can be heated in hot water, offering a convenient and tasty option.
Freeze-Dried Entrees: Brands like Mountain House or Alpine Air provide lightweight, calorie-dense meals that are easy to prepare.
Packaged Main Course Items: Ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, and macaroni and cheese are easy to cook and comforting.
Hot Drinks and Desserts: Various teas, cocoa, and simple desserts provide a satisfying end to your meal and help keep you warm.
Where to Buy Groceries
Plan ahead and purchase the bulk of your food before arriving in Alaska. Specialty items and your favorite snacks might not be available in local stores, so bringing them with you is best. Some perishable items can be bought en route to Talkeetna, but ensure you have everything you need to avoid last-minute shopping stress.
How to Divvy Up and Pack Food
Organize your food into daily rations, clearly labeling each package. Use durable, waterproof containers and bags to protect your food from the elements. Vacuum-sealed bags are excellent for keeping food fresh and compact. Pack heavier items at the bottom of your backpack and distribute the weight evenly to maintain balance. Pre-packaged portions help streamline meal preparation on the mountain, allowing you to focus on the climb and recovery.
]]>
RMI Expeditions
30027 SR 706 East
Post Office Box Q
Ashford, WA 98304
Phone:
1 (888) 892‑5462
Email:
[email protected]
