Qualifications

This trip is open to all individuals in excellent physical condition with previous climbing experience. Prior knowledge of, and comfort with, rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest are required. A minimum of one previous glacier climb is also required.

Qualifying Programs

Recommended climbing experiences prior to the Five Day Kautz Climb include:

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.

• Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
• Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
• Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Five Day Kautz Climb, you are preparing for:

• Steep climbing and glacier travel with a 50-60 lb load
• A 12+ hour summit day
• Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility 

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!

Below are approximate outlines of the program's physical demands that will be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals:

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.

Acclimatization

Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.

While the key to climbing high is proper acclimatization, this climb effectively moves up and down the mountain at a rate that exceeds our body’s ability to adjust (acclimate) to the high altitude. This is true whether a program spends 2 days or 5 days on the upper mountain (elevations above 10,000 feet). During our short climb, our bodies simply do not have the time to completely adjust to the altitude, and because of this short stay, our bodies do not typically succumb to altitude’s ill effects. In short, climbers generally experience the mild but uncomfortable, yet normal, symptoms of their bodies beginning the adjustment process. While climbers will feel better rested on the slightly longer programs, fitness remains the key factor in a climber’s performance.

In addition, physical performance at altitude is often related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) are usually key factors in an individual’s success on a short-term visit to altitude.

MEALS

On the Five Day Kautz Climb you will need 4 mountain lunches, 3 dinners, and 3 breakfasts while on the mountain.

MOUNTAIN LUNCHES

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain lunch items: dry salami, smoked salmon, jerky (turkey, beef, fish), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, toffees, Life Savers), gummy bears, sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).

Breakfast

Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.

Dinner

Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. We also recommend your bring hot beverage mixes such as coffee, tea, cocoa, or cider.

Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.

Ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.

Payments

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit of $550 per person is required to secure your reservation.

• Deposits can be paid using MasterCard*, Visa*, American Express*, e-check/ACH, U.S. bank check, or wire transfer**.

Balance Payments: The remaining balance is due 120 days before your program's start date.

• Balance payments can be made via MasterCard*, Visa*, American Express*, e-check/ACH, U.S. bank check, or wire transfer**.
• You will receive a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. If your balance is not paid 120 days before the program starts, your reservation will be canceled, and all fees will be forfeited.A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
• Full payment is required when registering within 120 days of the program start date.

*Note: A 3% surcharge applies to all credit/debit card transactions.
**Wire transfers must include all fees charged by your bank. The amount received by our bank must match the deposit amount.

Cancellation

The $550 deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

• Cancellations must be submitted in writing. Once received, the following policy applies:
  • Cancellations made 120 or more days before the program start date will forfeit the $550 deposit.
  • Cancellations made less than 120 days before the program start date will not receive refunds or credits.

We do not offer refunds. Please remember this before registering for this program. Due to the time-sensitive nature of this program, no exceptions will be made to the cancellation policy.

Cancellation Insurance

We highly recommend travel insurance for this trip. Please see our Travel Tab for details.

Change of Date

Date changes are subject to availability and can only be applied to the current climbing season. Changes must be requested at least 90 days before the departure date and will incur a $200 fee per person. No date changes are allowed within 90 days of departure.

Risk Management

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing. 
You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

Summit Attempt

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turn around without reaching the summit. 

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.) are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

Participant Responsibilities

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team effort. Each participant shares responsibility for the safety and success of the group. Therefore, we ask that each participant:

• Be physically and mentally fit for the program.
• Review and understand all provided program information.
• Notify the RMI Office of any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
• Be properly attired and equipped according to the Equipment List.
• Act considerately towards all team members.
• Minimize environmental impact by following Leave No Trace practices.
• Honestly and accurately describe your fitness, health, skills, abilities, and equipment to the guide staff.
• Communicate any changes in medications or health to the guide staff during the program.
• Follow the advice of your guide staff.
• Continuously assess your fitness, health, skills, and abilities in relation to the program’s demands.

RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from the program or to send them to a lower altitude if the guide staff determines, at their discretion, that the participant is not adequately prepared or capable of participating safely. This decision may be based on physical, technical, or psychological factors, or any other reason that might affect the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. If removed, the participant will not receive refunds or credits and will be responsible for all additional costs associated with early departure, including evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, and meals. 

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

RMI has a strict zero-tolerance policy for harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate behavior under this policy includes any conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for others. Such behavior is considered a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider behavior to be in violation of this policy even if it does not meet the legal definition of harassment. When assessing whether conduct violates this policy, we will evaluate whether a reasonable person would perceive the behavior as creating an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violations of this policy may lead to removal from a program and denial of services indefinitely. We prioritize the safety and well-being of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media. 

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes. 

Here are the key points:

1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them. 
5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

General Policies

RMI's program schedule and itineraries may change based on various factors such as route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, and other environmental factors. RMI has the full discretion to modify plans in response to these or other factors, including adjustments to program fees, schedule, itinerary, or staffing as necessary to ensure the safety and proper conduct of the program. Once a program begins, the Lead Guide will determine any changes to the itinerary, including the possibility of ending the program early if continuing poses risks to the group's safety, health, or well-being.

RMI reserves the right to cancel any program due to insufficient participation, weather, route conditions, or other reasons. In such cases, we will try to reschedule the Participant for another program date. If rescheduling is not possible, RMI will refund the Participant for all program fees paid, minus any non-refundable payments made on the Participant's behalf prior to cancellation, such as the Cost Recovery Fee and Entrance Fee paid to the National Park Service. RMI is not responsible for any non-refundable expenses incurred by the Participant in preparation for the program, such as airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, or equipment purchases or rentals.

Once a program has started, no refunds or credits will be given for cancellations due to weather, route conditions, or other factors that could jeopardize the group's health, safety, or well-being. Additionally, if the Participant chooses not to begin or decides to leave the program early, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for any extra costs related to early departure, including evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, and meals.

Program costs are offered as a package, and no refunds or credits will be provided for unused portions. The Participant acknowledges that RMI is not responsible for any travel or hospitality services provided by other companies, including airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation services. RMI is also not liable for any act, error, omission, injury, loss, delay, or danger caused by a travel or hospitality provider. The Participant will be responsible for any costs resulting from travel delays, missed connections, or lost baggage that require additional arrangements to rejoin the program.