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Forbidden Peak - West Ridge

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  • Show Trip Info

    $1660 *
    4 days
    Level 4

    *We require that all climbers and guides have received the primary COVID-19 vaccination series (1 or 2 doses depending on manufacturer) to join our programs.


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Forbidden Peak - West Ridge

Forbidden Peak - West Ridge

Forbidden Peak's West Ridge is an unforgettable alpine climb and one of America's most sought-after ascents.


  • Prepare for the ascent on the snow slopes and rock faces in beautiful Boston Basin of the North Cascades.
  • Traverse the exciting and stunning line of Forbidden Peak's West Ridge to the mountain's summit.
  • Climb with the expert leadership of RMI's guides and a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio.

The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
Making the approach into Boston Basin
Camp in Boston Basin
Looking up at the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak from Camp in Boston Basin
Approaching the base of the West Ridge Couloir
Climbing the West Ridge Couloir
Short Roping on the West Ridge of Forbidden
Climbing the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
Climbing the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
Climbing Forbidden Peak
Coiling the rope at a belay on Forbidden Peak
On the summit of Forbidden Peak
Descending the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
Descending the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
Descending into the West Ridge Couloir

Renowned for its exciting and classic terrain, the West Ridge of Forbidden is a tremendously rewarding climb that has earned its place as one of the "Fifty Classic Climbs in North America". The route features impressive views of surrounding Cascade peaks like the spectacular North Face of Johannesberg, the Quien Sabe Glacier on Sahale Peak, as well as the airy view down the North side of Forbidden to the remote Moraine Lake.

Located in the heart of the North Cascade National Park, Forbidden rises to a height of 8,630 feet. The route consists of climbing a small glacier below the South Face and then low 5th class rock and 40- to 50- degree snow and ice in the West Ridge Couloir. At the top of the couloir we cache our glacier gear and don rock shoes for the enjoyable 5.0 to 5.6 rock climbing along the exposed crest to the summit. The West Ridge of Forbidden is a true alpinist's classic.

A day of climbing instruction and review are included in the itinerary and may include an ascent of an easier local objective such as Sharkfin Tower or Sahale Peak.

We lead the West Ridge at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive a high degree of hands-on instruction prior to the climb and also have a small, efficient rope team during the summit ascent.

This is an intermediate level program for climbers in great physical condition with knowledge of mountaineering techniques and previous climbing experience. Climbers should be comfortable on 45 degree snow and ice slopes and climbing on exposed ridges. While previous rock climbing experience is not required some climbers have found it helpful. Give us a call if you are undecided regarding your skills. A full day of climbing instruction and review are included in the itinerary.


The Mountain Guides at RMI have a reputation as top guides in the United States. RMI Guides participated in some of America’s first ventures into the far reaches of the Himalaya. Years of expedition guiding and alpine climbing around the world have built a core of consummate professional guides.

Our guides are celebrated teachers and trainers, known for their leadership as well as their character. They possess the compassion, enthusiasm and ability to empower others and inspire them forward. Such qualities may only be found in people at the top of their profession. Despite their vast experience, RMI Guides still remember their own first steps into the mountains, and enjoy helping other climbers reach new heights.

Our exceptional focus to detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures make our programs truly memorable.


RMI strives to create the safest mountain experience possible. Our experienced team of guides focuses on leading fun and successful climbs without compromising safety. Each climb includes careful pre-trip planning, daily weather forecasts, avalanche forecasts, and diligent attention to detail. All RMI Guides are highly trained in remote medicine and rescue skills and carry comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio communication equipment throughout the program. Regardless of the objective or the destination, safety remains RMI’s top priority.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or [email protected].

Climber Reviews

Filter By
Pushing myself beyond my limits and gaining confidence on rock and snow. Building a more robust mental awareness while climbing peaks with a good amount of vertical exposure.
John S.

For this trip, I loved how we made it what we wanted. In this case, we felt we could push it a bit, and we did without being reckless.
Ben D.

Being my first trip to the Boston Basin, I didn't know exactly what to expect - but the setting and the climb up Forbidden is sublime. The options available in the basin for climbing are many and it's a fantastic place to send clients. Eric made the experience of this great place unforgettable and I can't wait to get back.
Lucas K.

As with other trips, I am extremely grateful for the chance to spend time in a beautiful, challenging environment with a guide like Eric. This trip was my first experience with significant exposure. I found it to be intense and mentally taxing beyond the physical demands--exactly the sort of thing that draws me to the mountains.
Jeremy D.

The traverse climbing on the west ridge is awesome and the view is stunning there. BTW, I learned a lot on the alpine mountaineering and will be more experienced next time when I climb some big mountains.
Xiao C.

The guides, as always. Chase and Leon are awesome. The route was a close second.
Andrew L.

This was a custom trip. For me it was my first trip that had some more moderate technical climbing. It was amazing. The guides Leon Davis and Chase were great! They kept us safe and confident. I am very happy with both of the guides.
Jeffrey P.

I enjoyed having the flexibility to change the schedule with it being a private climb.
Augie L.

Great lead guide and destination/itinerary
Meredith B.

The diversity of the terrain on both Forbidden and SharkFinn were amazing. Definitely pushed my limits. Both the guides were great! They both were super encouraging and communicated effectively. Additionally, on the summit day there were several situations that could have been dangerous, but the guides were calm and confidently able to improvise and mitigate the risks. I was very impressed with their ability to adapt to the situation so quickly and easily to avoid some huge risks on the mountain.
Jeffrey P.

Jake and Thomas were excellent guides. Perfect trip.
Stephen R.

My experience with Eric. The climbing was fantastic and when things weren't exactly as expected, Eric's leadership was stellar.
Michael C.

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  • Price
    4 days
    Level 4

    *We require that all climbers and guides have received the primary COVID-19 vaccination series (1 or 2 doses depending on manufacturer) to join our programs.

Table of Contents
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Day 1


The group meets at 8:00 a.m. at the Marblemount Ranger Station in the North Cascades. Please see our Travel Details document for driving directions and carpool opportunities. Your RMI guides will meet you at the ranger station for introductions, group gear distribution and personal gear check.

From Marblemount we follow the Cascade River Road to the trailhead. During our hike in to Boston Basin we gain approximately 3,000'. The hike through the forest and up into the alpine meadows takes half a day and gets us into camp at 6,200' in time for an early dinner.


Day 2

TRAINING  •  6,200' | 1,890M

Our training offers participants an overview of various techniques which meet the challenges set forth by the West Ridge of Forbidden. The snowfields and rock above camp serve as our training ground. As part of our training day we may make an attempt on Sharkfin Tower or another moderate local objective. Our training will focus on movement skills, belaying and lowering techniques, glacier travel and self care skills.

Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the training you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.

After the day of skills training we return to camp where we make our final summit preparations, enjoy dinner, and go to bed early for the next day's climb.


Day 3

FORBIDDEN PEAK SUMMIT DAY (8,816' | 2,687M)  •  6,200' | 1,890M

The summit ascent - Our day begins with a pre-dawn alpine start to give us ample time for this full day of climbing. The route consists of climbing a small glacier below the South Face and then mid-fifth class rock and 40- to 50- degree snow and ice in the West Ridge Couloir. At the top of the couloir we cache our glacier gear for the enjoyable mid-fifth class rock climbing along the exposed crest to the summit. From the top the full majesty of the North Cascades is revealed with Mt. Baker to the northwest and views south all the way to Mt. Rainier.

After spending some time on top to enjoy the views and take photos, we begin our descent. We rappel and down climb the ridge, make our way back down the couloir, and then into camp for an early dinner and to watch the sun go down over the peaks to the west.

Summit Climb

Summit Climb

Day 4


On our last morning we rise early for breakfast, break camp and take approximately two hours for the hike back down to the trailhead. The trip concludes with a celebratory lunch in Sedro Wooley. Those with a plane to catch should plan for an arrival in Seattle around mid-afternoon.

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Travel Consultant

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send email to [email protected].

Travel Insurance

We highly recommend travel insurance for this trip. Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.

Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be challenging. To help make the process more straightforward, we have partnered with Harbor Travel Insurance because some of their policies are specifically designed for adventure travel and offer coverage for remote areas, and for activities like mountaineering, climbing, skiing, and trekking, without any altitude restrictions.

When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:

  • Read the fine print. Travel Insurance will refund you when canceling for a covered reason for any non-refundable cancellation fees. However, there are exclusions, so make sure you understand the “covered reasons.”
  • Confirm that your activity is a covered “activity.” Not all travel insurance policies will offer coverage for activities such as mountaineering, climbing, skiing, or trekking adventures. Policies can also exclude coverage for activities due to the gear used (crampons, ice axe), for activities that go above certain elevations, or for activities in a particular region of the world. If there are exclusions, you may need to add an “Adventure” or “Sports” package to cover your activity.
  • Verify that your state of residence is allowed with the policy that you are purchasing. Not all insurance companies offer policies in all 50 states.


Harbor InsuranceHarbor Travel Insurance covers the following critical benefits:


  • Evacuation to a nearest appropriate hospital once hospitalized.
  • Trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, sporting goods, baggage loss, emergency dental, AD&D and more.
  • Completely integrated one-stop program with a single contact for emergency services to travel assistance and insurance claims
  • 24/7 access to paramedics, nurses and military veterans.

Harbor Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word.

Getting There

Our meeting place is the Marblemount Ranger Station, 7280 Ranger Station Road, Marblemount WA 98267-9755. You are responsible for your own transportation to the program's trailhead.

We meet at 8:00a.m. Most climbers will fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) the evening before the program and rent a car for the 2-1/2 hour drive. The town of Marblemount is approximately 125 miles from SeaTac. Please click here for driving directions.

Ride Share: If you are participating in a climb and are interested in sharing a ride, please post your information in the "Ride Share" forum of your North Cascades Discussion Board by logging into your RMI Account.

Area Accommodations

You can find lodging or camping at the Glacier Peak Resort and Winery. They offer primitive secluded tent camping by the Skagit River, as well as wifi and basic amenity tent camping on their lawn.  Another camping option is Rockport State Park.

There is also a motel near Marblemount: The Totem Motel.


For updated North Cascades weather forecasts, click here.


Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.


North Cascades National Park has over 300 glaciers, more than any other park in the lower 48 states. More than half the glaciers in the 48 states are concentrated in this mountainous wilderness region called the North Cascades.

For more facts click here, and for even more click here.


General Information on North Cascades National Park.

North Cascades National Park map.

Communities & Activities outside North Cascades National Park, click here.

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This trip is open to individuals in excellent physical condition with previous climbing experience. Prior knowledge of, and comfort with, rope travel, the use of crampons, and ice axe arrest are required. Successful completion of an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier, in Alaska, Peru, Ecuador, North Cascades, or an equivalent multi-day mountaineering seminar is also required. While previous rock climbing is not required, some climbers have found it helpful.

Qualifying Programs

Recommended climbing experiences prior to Forbidden Peak - West Ridge include:

  • Get In The Best Shape Of Your Life
    And Then Go
    Climb A Mountain

    Create A Fitness And Training Program

    Go To Fitness Resources

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.

  • Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
  • Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
  • Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.

For the Forbidden - West Ridge Climb, you are preparing for:

  • Steep hiking on the approach with a 45-50 lb load
  • A 12+ hour summit day
  • 5.0 to 5.6 rock climbing along an exposed ridge
  • Mountaineering techniques requiring core strength and flexibility

Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!

Below are approximate outlines of the program's physical demands that will be helpful in planning your training schedule and goals:

Total Hiking Time
Elevation Gain / Loss
Total Distance
Pack Weight
DAY 1 - Hike to Boston Basin
4+ Hours
Gain = 3,000'
3.5 Miles
45 - 50 lbs
DAY 2 - Training
8 Hours
Gain = 1,850'
Loss = 1,850'
2.5 Miles
Round Trip
20 - 25 lbs
DAY 3 - Summit Climb
12 Hours
Gain = 2,430'
Loss = 2,430'
2.5 Miles
Round Trip
20 - 25 lbs
DAY 4 - Descend to Trailhead
3 Hours
Loss = 3,000'
3.5 Miles
45 - 50 lbs

Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.




No acclimatization is necessary for this program.

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What You’ll Need

A list of required personal equipment accompanies every RMI program, and the thought process behind each item is much greater than simply “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.” The list for your program takes into account factors such as: seasonality, route conditions, weather, elevation and more. As such, this list is framed within the broadest of contexts and is dynamic by its very nature. Therefore, certain variables (additions and/or subtractions) are inherent within such an all-encompassing list. We make every effort to recommend only top of the line clothing and technical gear and it is never our intention for you to buy or rent unnecessary gear.

The Guide Pick is an example of the listed item, giving you an idea of the material and specifications of the item. This exact item does not need to be purchased or used; however, any item you choose must have similar characteristics and performance abilities to the Guide Pick.

RMI Guides concur on the potential necessity of every item, thus every item on the list is required at gear check. However, guides may also have suggestions derived from their experience, some of which will vary from a given list. The guides’ recommendation whether to bring along or leave behind certain item(s) comes during the gear check, when the team first meets. Occasionally this recommendation comes at the expense of having previously purchased an item. If a guide presents the option of leaving behind certain item(s) on the list of required equipment, it is for a reason. Their recommendation may be related to the weather, route conditions, freezing level, perceived strength of the party, or desired pack weight.

Ultimately, there will never be a consensus for a “perfect” equipment list for an ascent. It does not exist because of the multitude of variables faced by climbers throughout the climb. Please follow this equipment list closely so that you will arrive for the gear check with all the required items. Keep in mind the list is not black and white, fine tuning will occur once you meet with your guide. Have a great climb!

If you are planning on renting gear for your climb, there are two options. Please note rental items are not shipped. Pick-up/Drop-off is at the store location. 

Northwest Mountain Shop - 820 Metcalf Street, Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284 | Phone: (360) 854-8761. Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase. Equipment can be reserved online.

Backcountry Essentials - 214 W Holly Street, Bellingham, WA 98225 | (360) 543-5678. Many of the required equipment items are available for rent or purchase. Equipment can be reserved online.

The Equipment Shop - American Alpine Institute - 1513 12th Street, Belllingham, WA 98225 | (360) 671-1570. Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase. Equipment can be reserved online.

Equipment List

    • Image of 50+ LITER BACKPACK

      Your backpack should be large enough to carry all of your personal gear, food and water, plus a portion of group gear. You will not need a separate summit pack.

    • Image of ICE AXE
      ICE AXE

      The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.


      We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat, or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.


      Transceivers are required on all North Cascades programs before July. The RMI Office will notify climb participants if the transceiver is not needed for their climb after July 1st.


      Cloth or surgical face mask for use in situations where 6 feet of distance from others cannot be maintained.

    • Image of GLACIER GLASSES

      Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

    • Image of GOGGLES

      Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

  • Hands

    Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.

  • Guide Pick™

  • Upper Body

    We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.

  • Guide Pick™

  • Lower Body

    We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

  • Guide Pick™


      A light weight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.


      Insulated, crampon-compatible leather or synthetic single mountaineering boots are ideal for the North Cascades. Because of the amount of good rock climbing found on the West Ridge route, some climbers also bring a pair of rock shoes with them. A good compromise to carrying two sets of foot wear is one of the lightweight mountaineering boots made today designed for both rock and ice. These boots are sturdy enough for kicking steps and holding a crampon while also having sticky rubber and a good feel for the rock.


      Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, basic pain reliever, and personal medications.

    • Image of MEALS & SNACKS

      See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

    • Image of BOWL

      Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.

    • Image of INSULATED MUG

      Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommed a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L nalgene.

    • Image of SPOON OR SPORK

      A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

    • Image of WATER BOTTLES
      2 - 3 WATER BOTTLES

      One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).


      Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a a waterproof pack liner.


      Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

    • Image of SUNSCREEN

      We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

    • Image of EAR PLUGS

      Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

    • Image of CAMERA (OPTIONAL)

      Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

    • Image of TRAVEL CLOTHES

      We recommend bringing a selection of comfortable clothing to wear while traveling as well as pre- and post-trip.

    • Purchase travel insurance.

    • Purchase airplane tickets.

    • Arrange transportation and lodging.

    • Reserve rental equipment.

    • Be in the best shape of your life!

Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes and anchors, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a cell phone for emergency contact.

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On the Forbidden Peak - West Ridge climb you will need 3 mountain lunches, 3 dinners, and 3 breakfasts while on the mountain.


Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain lunch items: dry salami, smoked salmon, jerky (turkey, beef, fish), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, toffees, Life Savers), gummy bears, sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).


Single-serving instant oatmeal or Cream-of-Wheat makes a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa or cider are suggested.


Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient; it is best to be familiar with their taste (and the effects they may have on your stomach) in advance of your program. Instant soups and Cup-o'-Noodles are popular supplements to your main course. As an alternative, you might consider bringing a cold main dish such as chicken, pizza, sandwiches, pasta salads or stir-fry. We also recommend your bring hot beverage mixes such as coffee, tea, cocoa, or cider.

Don't worry too much about the nutritional aspect of meals; concern yourself more with a high calorie intake. Most importantly, choose a variety of foods that you like to eat. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite.

Ample cold water is available for drinking and replenishing water bottles. Hot water will also be provided for your meals (freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal, etc) and hot drinks. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water, but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.

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